The end result is excellent! Everyone has their own style, and different levels of training. If you want to complain then post a link to your video on how to do it better.
Excellent ❤ When I had rust holes on my vehicle in 2010. I first sand it with a sand paper until I saw silver mental on the edge of the hole, than I used rust protection spray, than I filled the hole with a wire mesh, and I applied fiber polyester on top of the wire mesh, than I sand it down with sand paper, than a applied primer paint and than finally painted it. It was my weekend hobby which only costed me about $50 from Walmart and safety gloves, mask and glasses from the dollar store. The final presentation was okay on my job, but this man job is excellent, love it ❤, thank you sir.
Nice job. It’s tough to weld thin rotted metal. With an older car this isn’t a job that will last for years. He has taken care of the gaping rust hole which was the problem. But it is a repair that will last several years with slight surface rusting through the paint. You just have to keep touching up the light surface rust.
Nice work! There’s always that guy that criticizes everything, if you don’t try you don’t learn . And welding is not something you learn from one day to another. Same with bondo and sending it . Awesome job bro
Yes, shocking. People love to give constructive critisism so that the video maker and others can learn and improve. How rude... We're all here to learn and improve. Good video nonetheless!
You have to apply a special primer before you cab apply body filler. Body filler is really only supposed to be used over glass, or bare metal. Fiberglass is water proof, and is stronger than standard body filler.
As first timer and quick repair on an old 22year old banger with 1.4 engine &66hp . it does the job and looks good in my screen so thumbs-up 👍 and well done 👏 ✔ 👍 another few years and it will be scraped or for parts so the job should last till then 👌👍👏💯✌❤☘
Good enough!!! 👍 No need to be a perfect job but more than good enough to be around people and neighbors where you don’t have to be embarrassed. Thnx for sharing 😊
For those who don’t understand why he did the tape the way he did for the paint coats, that’s for feathering and stuff for the actual color. It helps blend it to the original, 👍🏻
Good Job. Did the same repair on my old rust bucket about 5 yrs ago, almost the complete sill from front to back and into the wheel arch. Tried to seam weld it but was just blowing holes so stiched it like this chap. I didn't mess around too much with the filler. Just enough to cover the welds and the hit the entire sill with Black Jack. The other sill should be getting done soon, along with the wheel arches. Black Jack again. It's an old car. What do I care what it looks like. If you want it to look new.... buy a new car. Beggars can't be choosers.
I always use a cheese grater file, when the body filler is the consistency of rubber. This reduces how much sanding down of the filler I have to do. Once the filler hardens. I always machine sand, then block sand the area to eliminate any machine marks.
He makes it look easy it's not this is a very skilled individual also I wonder how many people have all these tools that he uses for a repair job like this you did a good job but this wasn't his first rodeo he probably works in the body shop and does this routinely or he works on his own side but he's very skilled and he knows what he's doing the average shade tree would have a very tough time pulling this off and specially going out and buying thousands and thousands of dollars worth of these tools it's almost probably cheaper to take it to a body shop then to buy these tools for a one-time fix but I do give him credit he's an expert in his field of body repair very few people have this kind of capability😊
On my Chevy van big rust on lower under doors I got some ABS black plastic 6 in and ran it through a table saw cut it in half. Two pieces the length from tire to tire. Drilled out resessed holes in top and Screwed in self tappers.. Black Caulk the top. Underneath I bent 5 bolts connected to anything. It's ugly Rusty mess but it worked and it will never rust there again. Oh I forgot I used old engine oil in a spray bottle mixed with some paint thinner and sprayed all the underneath before I started. For other projects, If you want free metal just find a commercial metal shop dumpster. If you get lucky you'll find the primed and painted with the plastic film overlay.
DAN i hear you and ditto to that . I use a marine grade filler , totally water proof and a lot stronger . Now i dont use it everywhere but in areas like that it is sometimes a blessing although harder to sand out . I have once had to repair a front fender and used 304 stainless for the lip , then blended with marine grade bondo on my old dodge truck . That was a 91 Dakota . That SS is still there , 400,000 plus . Canadian salt on the roads .
@@klausjensen9150 If I good understand you used marine grade filler with epoxy ? I often put epoxy on the rust and then only paint or putty. Thanks for info ;)
@chopperhehehe I literally just bought a welder, and a big peice of sheet metal. Started messing around with it until I was comfortable with my welds. Then I cut out the rust on my truck. Shaped a patch with cardboard, welded it in. Wasn't hard.
This whole process reminds me of my 1st "truck", a 1962 Ford Falcon Ranchero. Or the "Rusty Bean Ranchero" as everyone called her. Yes, if i moved the carpet square i could see the road and the rear wheel wells, on the outside body panels, were rusted out. I always wanted to restore here but my dad nixed it. Want to find another one and restore it. With one "minor" modification. Drop a 302 BOSS in it rather than the 289 it came with. 😂😂😂 So when they said rust modifier, does that just mean Naval Jelly? Very nice work!
Welds look like mine 😅 I like that 🤝 I would grind the welds more down und apply 2 light coast of Epoxy 2K Primer before the sealant. After the 2k Epoxy it's protected from the outside. Never paint on bare metal !
Dude, you're a real professional. My hats off to you. May I ask... how many years of experience you have with... well with everything you just demonstrated here?
One thing i learned as vette man. Fibwrglass doent rust. I dont for the life of me understand why so many people go ahead and use metal again on rust pron vehicals, espeially when they have a perfect template. Even body shop repais. The rust is back with a bubble in under a year and rusted out in a few years, tops. The only time to use steel is going into a pinchweld simply because of strenth and integrity. Id still dink that in and put mess over it. What most people dont understand saying use primer or paint the underside is that the weld melts it and immedialy starts rust as it cools
@@TerryJonesPrinterRepairs It reminded me of the time when someone put a dead fish inside the door card of my dad's van many years ago as a prank. He was smelling rotten fish for months after! 😁
As a lifelong bodyman I have to say that at best that process might serve as a temporary fix for a home shop to get your car through one or two state inspections , but is not a quality repair. the life for that car is very short so i would not advise putting much money in it .
I can attest. I have a 2010 manual Honda Civic. That car is a beast. Im gonna drive it until it finally dies. Im sure it has a few more years left on it and yeah I have done many repairs and maintenance on it.
Good stuff, very satisfying to watch. Inspirational even. Have moat of the stuff in the garage to attempt this on the old 89 k1500 that could use a lil cab corner rocker attention 😅
I can't remember the last time I saw a rusty car. Replacing and patching up panels used to be so common but since they started making car bodies galvanized everything else seems to die before rust becomes an issue.
We see it all the time here in NYC because of all the chemicals spread by sanitation during the winter months. As a matter of fact, our 2005 Honda CR-V EX has some rust on the rear side panel that needs to be fixed.
@@HeartSoulLeake I understand what you're saying because all my friends said the same thing years ago when I think it was possibly Audi who started to galvanize their cars as standard. This was back in the days when me and my friends still enjoyed working on cars. Alll I'm saying is that I can't remember the last time I see a rusty car on the road? In the past, passing your MOT often meant parching up and making sure no sharp pieces of rust were sticking out and car body filler wasn't just used to repair dents, Holes were also a real issue.
Zintec is my go to now not just mild steel, not too much more for a patch and doesn't rust nearly as quickly as mild steel, most primers are porous so water goes through them, use a top coat any will do, they are only a key coat btw
this is such an amazing job and there's beauty in skill and repairing stuff instead of throwing it away... yet I can't help myself thinking for the cost of all the tools used (not to mention having a house with a garage) you can probably buy another used 2001 civic :)
But unfortunately another used 2001 Civic will be as bad for rust as that one 😄 and the fun he had repairing it. I only say that as I spent the weekend swearing alot and repairing a sill on my van,🤣
you are right I am on a ranch and bought a 1979 crew cab GMC 4x4 3/4 ton it has rocker panel rust and door rust etc and yes I have access to a shop and have most of the tools to do this however I am not that detail geared to do body work and also busy with ranch work cattle and fencing etc I was going to "Mad Max" this truck by using the patch panels and glue and use rivets holding it together it will look pretty rough when done but also it will probably give the truck a cool frankenstein look as well.
I don't have good skill welding metals. So I actually use spray foam to create a mold to copy the entire section of the damage section before removing and rust and paint The mold help me a lot to get sheet metal size and shape, and apply Bondo to fit much better.
Definitely an amature repair using an hobby welder, application of filler poor standard of welding poor with gaps but having said that it's a good effort.
Nice one for sharing but I think I'd have more than what I started with 🤷 I'd need a new car as a paint job, replacing the whole of that side and underneath 🤣🤣
Hey there, i need to do this myself. Curious if you have an video references of someone doing it properly in your opinion. Would be helpful. Want to make sure I follow someone’s example that knows what they’re doing
Hmmm.... This reminds me of my early days in sheet metal repair. Nowadays, the sheet metal is properly fitted and adjusted. I haven't done stippling in a long time, the weld is ultimately continuous and as a result I also only need minimal filler. How many kg of putty have you applied now? Believe me, you can do it with less filler. You haven't done yourself any favors in the long run. But the result is impressive. 😉
@@My_Old_YT_Account Well... Not much, really. Basically, he did almost everything right. Only the execution leaves something to be desired. There are three or four points that I would criticize. 1) The wheel arch consists of two parts (the inner and outer wheel arch), or the inner and outer sills. However, only one panel was made to repair this area. Okay, that's complaining at a high level. 2) The repair plate seems very thick to me (I think it is a 2 mm plate), in contrast to the one used at the factory (the factory plate is 0.7 mm thick). Furthermore, the sheet metal was only roughly pre-formed and finally shaped with a jack. This in turn leads to the sheet metal being misshapen and thus to the use of the filler. Note... The cleaner you make a repair panel, the less filler you have to use! 3) A hole was drilled to seal the cavity, which was then sealed with filler. Filling compound is usually water-absorbent, which in turn leads to corrosion in the long term. 4) The sheet metal was only spot-welded, which means that there is no full-surface connection with the rest of the body. To put it in a nutshell, if the repair panels had been properly preformed, fitted and welded over the entire surface, you would have saved yourself a weld seam that could rust again due to condensation. Which brings me to closing the hole in the wheel arch for cavity preservation with filler. As a rule, a rubber plug is inserted there. Only a layer of zinc stray was applied as rust prevention for the repair panels. Generally, however, a welding and epoxy primer is applied. This would then ensure long-term rust prevention. As I said, I'm complaining at a very high level here. But the procedure is okay for a hobby repair.
I see men of culture appreciate a skilled man’s trade. This is a work of art!
Glad you actually did the repair the proper way and not just hid all the damage under body filler like some people do. Good work
I did a repair something like this back in the early eighties on an old Monte Carlo, the repair lasted eleven years, and then I sold it. Great job!
❤
The end result is excellent!
Everyone has their own style, and different levels of training.
If you want to complain then post a link to your video on how to do it better.
Well said!
👍
Revolting lil humans love to knock others to prop their ego.
He's not the best welder, but will get better with time. He really tried to do the best job he can.
👍😃
Excellent ❤
When I had rust holes on my vehicle in 2010. I first sand it with a sand paper until I saw silver mental on the edge of the hole, than I used rust protection spray, than I filled the hole with a wire mesh, and I applied fiber polyester on top of the wire mesh, than I sand it down with sand paper, than a applied primer paint and than finally painted it. It was my weekend hobby which only costed me about $50 from Walmart and safety gloves, mask and glasses from the dollar store. The final presentation was okay on my job, but this man job is excellent, love it ❤, thank you sir.
Nice job. It’s tough to weld thin rotted metal. With an older car this isn’t a job that will last for years. He has taken care of the gaping rust hole which was the problem. But it is a repair that will last several years with slight surface rusting through the paint. You just have to keep touching up the light surface rust.
That's a lot of work you put in. Looks great.
Nice work! There’s always that guy that criticizes everything, if you don’t try you don’t learn . And welding is not something you learn from one day to another. Same with bondo and sending it . Awesome job bro
Professional body men love watching and critiquing home videos.
So true!
Yes, shocking. People love to give constructive critisism so that the video maker and others can learn and improve. How rude...
We're all here to learn and improve. Good video nonetheless!
Do Not call him a professional body man! Thats an insult to us that are. He got the job done, but I’d fire him for that crap
@@nkubitz1981are you dumb or can you not read?
@@nkubitz1981
And what would you have done differently as a - Professional Body Man? Be specific.
VET
I always say if you're going to do a job, do it to the best of your ability and it looked like a proper job to me in the video, well done
Always good to primer before body filler. Moisture can seep behind bodyfiller I’ve seen large patches of rust form under body filler
You can primer before body filler?! What
primer is porous, won't stop moisture
You have to apply a special primer before you cab apply body filler. Body filler is really only supposed to be used over glass, or bare metal. Fiberglass is water proof, and is stronger than standard body filler.
Filler can go over etch primer - not normal primer
Nice job! Probably would have seam sealed the larger panel inside before welding smaller patch to prevent rust
As first timer and quick repair on an old 22year old banger with 1.4 engine &66hp . it does the job and looks good in my screen so thumbs-up 👍 and well done 👏 ✔ 👍 another few years and it will be scraped or for parts so the job should last till then 👌👍👏💯✌❤☘
Если он в России, ещё лет десять минимум кататься
Good enough!!! 👍 No need to be a perfect job but more than good enough to be around people and neighbors where you don’t have to be embarrassed. Thnx for sharing 😊
For those who don’t understand why he did the tape the way he did for the paint coats, that’s for feathering and stuff for the actual color. It helps blend it to the original, 👍🏻
That’s incredible! You do EXCELLENT work! I have 2007 Ford E250 with rust like that and my body guy said he can’t fix it.
Change a guy😁😁😁
Good Job. Did the same repair on my old rust bucket about 5 yrs ago, almost the complete sill from front to back and into the wheel arch. Tried to seam weld it but was just blowing holes so stiched it like this chap. I didn't mess around too much with the filler. Just enough to cover the welds and the hit the entire sill with Black Jack. The other sill should be getting done soon, along with the wheel arches. Black Jack again. It's an old car. What do I care what it looks like. If you want it to look new.... buy a new car. Beggars can't be choosers.
I always use a cheese grater file, when the body filler is the consistency of rubber. This reduces how much sanding down of the filler I have to do. Once the filler hardens. I always machine sand, then block sand the area to eliminate any machine marks.
My mother and Grandmother did this to our mini van.
I bet all negative comments are coming from collision autobody shop owners who are jealous of this guy's talent 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I am not a pro welder and i dont have a exclusive car.but i do have a old car that i want to fix up.thanks for sharing your way.👍
I have this exact spot of rust on my 2002 Civic hatch, the video makes it look so easy😭
Anyone who shows their welds on youtube is a braver person than I lol
amazing that it can still be jacked up :D
He will have to weld that aswell
Excellent job. Highly skilled and professional work.
I love that youtuber's think it was a professional job
I don't know why I watching this, anyway never I'll be doing that kind of job but is very interesting 👍
The last hole, I would have welded that, not Bondo,. Way better than having a rust hole. Thanks for your approach.
It was a slap job. Slap it together, who cares how long it lasts.
I would have used a rubber bung 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇬🇧🇮🇪🇮🇪
Thank you for sharing looks better than it did before great job for a DIY 🏆
This guy did a fantastic job on it!!!!😊
Finger Bondo spread in wheelhouse shows experience and the easiest method... good job..POR 15 is amazing on rust prevention.
There's a TH-cam video called friends shouldn't let friends use por 15. Its actually not that good of a product.
Yeah por 15 sucks compared to Epoxy paint
A friend of mine told me the guys use to put diff oil in the sills to protect from future rust; great idea
He makes it look easy it's not this is a very skilled individual also I wonder how many people have all these tools that he uses for a repair job like this you did a good job but this wasn't his first rodeo he probably works in the body shop and does this routinely or he works on his own side but he's very skilled and he knows what he's doing the average shade tree would have a very tough time pulling this off and specially going out and buying thousands and thousands of dollars worth of these tools it's almost probably cheaper to take it to a body shop then to buy these tools for a one-time fix but I do give him credit he's an expert in his field of body repair very few people have this kind of capability😊
I have to do this on my Civic, exact same place, tanks for the tips, just need to learn how to weld now..
Great work! I don’t have many tools but you showed me that I do not need a whole work shop to accomplish this!
If you made it better than it was before it was worth doing, no matter what
On my Chevy van big rust on lower under doors I got some ABS black plastic 6 in and ran it through a table saw cut it in half. Two pieces the length from tire to tire. Drilled out resessed holes in top and Screwed in self tappers.. Black Caulk the top. Underneath I bent 5 bolts connected to anything. It's ugly Rusty mess but it worked and it will never rust there again.
Oh I forgot I used old engine oil in a spray bottle mixed with some paint thinner and sprayed all the underneath before I started.
For other projects, If you want free metal just find a commercial metal shop dumpster. If you get lucky you'll find the primed and painted with the plastic film overlay.
U Srbiji to limari neće da rade jel su monteri a ne limari. Svaka čast za video.
A lot of work, but the result is amazing ! 👍👍👍
"we are going to do a quick repair job"
Ends up doing a a better job than my local auto body shops.
Your local body shops must be rough as a bears ass then!
way better
I like every video from zero to hero
Good work for 3 months. The rust will be waiting for the ouner under putty. 😢 Large problem for the cars from winter territory.
DAN i hear you and ditto to that . I use a marine grade filler , totally water proof and a lot stronger . Now i dont use it everywhere but in areas like that it is sometimes a blessing although harder to sand out . I have once had to repair a front fender and used 304 stainless for the lip , then blended with marine grade bondo on my old dodge truck . That was a 91 Dakota . That SS is still there , 400,000 plus . Canadian salt on the roads .
@@klausjensen9150 If I good understand you used marine grade filler with epoxy ?
I often put epoxy on the rust and then only paint or putty.
Thanks for info ;)
Really I wouldn't of never have guessed it hmmm 🤔🤔😅
Great job as always Jason ! Those panels look great 👍
No .. very bed ..
The quality of workmanship matches the age and the condition of the car.
Thanks for the tips.
I bought a welder and gave this a shot with no experience.
It was actually very easy..
Lol
@@chopperhehehe I can email you the results if you wanna see.. lol
Hopefully you have welded more than this guy
@chopperhehehe I literally just bought a welder, and a big peice of sheet metal. Started messing around with it until I was comfortable with my welds. Then I cut out the rust on my truck. Shaped a patch with cardboard, welded it in.
Wasn't hard.
OK for mot standard work,wouldn't really call it welding though,more like a series of very weak tack welds,fair play to the guy for having a go
Proud fan am I you did a very good job buddy thumbs up,you will always have criticism,take it positively and do even better,don't be discouraged.
It was a pleasure to watch the progress of this work Thank you
He did a great job, for a 22 year old vehicle, it's really good; In a few years it will be banned from running with this combustion engine.
Should add a few more years to the car. Nice job.👍
This whole process reminds me of my 1st "truck", a 1962 Ford Falcon Ranchero. Or the "Rusty Bean Ranchero" as everyone called her. Yes, if i moved the carpet square i could see the road and the rear wheel wells, on the outside body panels, were rusted out. I always wanted to restore here but my dad nixed it. Want to find another one and restore it. With one "minor" modification. Drop a 302 BOSS in it rather than the 289 it came with. 😂😂😂
So when they said rust modifier, does that just mean Naval Jelly?
Very nice work!
Welds look like mine 😅 I like that 🤝 I would grind the welds more down und apply 2 light coast of Epoxy 2K Primer before the sealant. After the 2k Epoxy it's protected from the outside.
Never paint on bare metal !
That welding work 💀
Dude, you're a real professional. My hats off to you. May I ask... how many years of experience you have with... well with everything you just demonstrated here?
También me gustaria saber cuantos años de experiencia tienes
Ditch the Dremel, get a Katsu 3" mini grinder. Awesome bit of kit.
One thing i learned as vette man. Fibwrglass doent rust. I dont for the life of me understand why so many people go ahead and use metal again on rust pron vehicals, espeially when they have a perfect template. Even body shop repais. The rust is back with a bubble in under a year and rusted out in a few years, tops. The only time to use steel is going into a pinchweld simply because of strenth and integrity. Id still dink that in and put mess over it. What most people dont understand saying use primer or paint the underside is that the weld melts it and immedialy starts rust as it cools
Mazoor ho gya comment krna hi pda kaam perfect tha
Wow! You make it look easy, but way beyond my pay grade.
Take time to bolster up your knowledge and your skill level yo dude what 😮
I would have filled that entire inside of that channel when it was opened with Fish Oil before welding the plate on. It's the best rust preventer.
😅😂😂😂😂
@@anthonykinrade8642 enlighten me why is it funny?
@@TerryJonesPrinterRepairs It reminded me of the time when someone put a dead fish inside the door card of my dad's van many years ago as a prank. He was smelling rotten fish for months after! 😁
@@anthonykinrade8642 ok now I see. That is funny but on the plus side if it was an oily fish I bet that door didn't rust out.
Everyone's an expert
9:50 najpierw kładzie się podkład na metal potem szpachlówkę i jeszcze raz podkład . Nie dałabym tobie auta do lakierowania.
As a lifelong bodyman I have to say that at best that process might serve as a temporary fix for a home shop to get your car through one or two state inspections , but is not a quality repair. the life for that car is very short so i would not advise putting much money in it .
actually i replaced my whole body with cardboard and bondo and its been just fine soooo
Have to say your wrong. Honda civic is one of the longest lasting cars on the planet. Much better than anything made in America
I can attest. I have a 2010 manual Honda Civic. That car is a beast. Im gonna drive it until it finally dies. Im sure it has a few more years left on it and yeah I have done many repairs and maintenance on it.
@@volcom05345 2010 is new civic lol i still drive 5th gen 1993 sedan lol
Atleast he cut the rust out ,it's good enough for and old car
Good stuff, very satisfying to watch. Inspirational even. Have moat of the stuff in the garage to attempt this on the old 89 k1500 that could use a lil cab corner rocker attention 😅
I could have shit out of my ass a brand new car the time it took u to do this
Os mercenários trocam logo a caixa....
Parabéns!!!💚💛💙🤍🇮🇱
I can't remember the last time I saw a rusty car.
Replacing and patching up panels used to be so common but since they started making car bodies galvanized everything else seems to die before rust becomes an issue.
We see it all the time here in NYC because of all the chemicals spread by sanitation during the winter months. As a matter of fact, our 2005 Honda CR-V EX has some rust on the rear side panel that needs to be fixed.
@@HeartSoulLeake I don't know how true this is but I heard certain manufacturers don't galvanize cars for the north America market?
@Tommy T Any car can get bumped, scratched at any time, and if not addressed, it can lead to rust.
@@HeartSoulLeake I understand what you're saying because all my friends said the same thing years ago when I think it was possibly Audi who started to galvanize their cars as standard.
This was back in the days when me and my friends still enjoyed working on cars.
Alll I'm saying is that I can't remember the last time I see a rusty car on the road?
In the past, passing your MOT often meant parching up and making sure no sharp pieces of rust were sticking out and car body filler wasn't just used to repair dents,
Holes were also a real issue.
@@HeartSoulLeake Rust in upstate NY is unreal. Even new cars.
Zintec is my go to now not just mild steel, not too much more for a patch and doesn't rust nearly as quickly as mild steel, most primers are porous so water goes through them, use a top coat any will do, they are only a key coat btw
Good job bro. I’ll do this to my ford f150
this is such an amazing job and there's beauty in skill and repairing stuff instead of throwing it away... yet I can't help myself thinking for the cost of all the tools used (not to mention having a house with a garage) you can probably buy another used 2001 civic :)
But unfortunately another used 2001 Civic will be as bad for rust as that one 😄 and the fun he had repairing it. I only say that as I spent the weekend swearing alot and repairing a sill on my van,🤣
❤that is right,,ii love to do that. Hopefully soon will have a big house with a big garage..then will be busy. Good job.
you are right I am on a ranch and bought a 1979 crew cab GMC 4x4 3/4 ton it has rocker panel rust and door rust etc and yes I have access to a shop and have most of the tools to do this however I am not that detail geared to do body work and also busy with ranch work cattle and fencing etc I was going to "Mad Max" this truck by using the patch panels and glue and use rivets holding it together it will look pretty rough when done but also it will probably give the truck a cool frankenstein look as well.
Aficionado
@@ggj666 yo tengo un accord 97 con oxidación en donde va la rueda de refaccion y en la parte de delante del motor así ando en el
great work! nothing will ever beat hand skills. amazing result sir!
You forgot to grind the welds smooth before you started putting the bondo!
Amazing job. Increible tight spot welding, and should there be a minor mistake, bodyfiller is your friend. ;)
Yo dude its spelled incredible just so you know you should of stayed in school
Well.. I´m really sowwy
@@rodneyhopper22"should of" dude skipped kindergarten
⁰@@rodneyhopper22
Yo dude! Either your punctuation keys are broken, or you too ‘should of’ stayed in school.
Wow nice job man ! realy cool video !
3:29 the dremel disk said no
Great result on an old car
Amazing work! I should repair some points of my 76' Granada too.
I don't have good skill welding metals. So I actually use spray foam to create a mold to copy the entire section of
the damage section before removing and rust and paint The mold help me a lot to get sheet metal size and shape,
and apply Bondo to fit much better.
Then replace your whole quarter panel with sheet rock or cement wallboard
Definitely an amature repair using an hobby welder, application of filler poor standard of welding poor with gaps but having said that it's a good effort.
Whats that Song called... 4:40 😊😊😊😊...????
To me it's a really good job, congrats!
Nice one for sharing but I think I'd have more than what I started with 🤷 I'd need a new car as a paint job, replacing the whole of that side and underneath 🤣🤣
Another quality job. I am sure it will last a few months depending n where you live
Trotzdem eine sehr gute Arbeit
Wouldnt let this guy fix my power wheel. I do this for a living and own my own shop. This is what we call hack work.
Hey there, i need to do this myself. Curious if you have an video references of someone doing it properly in your opinion. Would be helpful. Want to make sure I follow someone’s example that knows what they’re doing
Better then a rust hole
he did everything I do plus used better primer and a clear coat.
I love that repair !
Great repair man!
A blind man would be glad to see it.
wow for someone who has no idea of what is involved thanks 👍
استمر شغل روعه وغير مكلف ❤
Excellent video. Slow and steady is what is needed. I could have done without the music, but I am an old man.
I liked it actually
Good perfection and patience
Hmmm.... This reminds me of my early days in sheet metal repair. Nowadays, the sheet metal is properly fitted and adjusted. I haven't done stippling in a long time, the weld is ultimately continuous and as a result I also only need minimal filler. How many kg of putty have you applied now? Believe me, you can do it with less filler. You haven't done yourself any favors in the long run. But the result is impressive. 😉
What should be done for a long lasting repair?
@@My_Old_YT_Account Well... Not much, really. Basically, he did almost everything right. Only the execution leaves something to be desired. There are three or four points that I would criticize.
1) The wheel arch consists of two parts (the inner and outer wheel arch), or the inner and outer sills. However, only one panel was made to repair this area. Okay, that's complaining at a high level.
2) The repair plate seems very thick to me (I think it is a 2 mm plate), in contrast to the one used at the factory (the factory plate is 0.7 mm thick). Furthermore, the sheet metal was only roughly pre-formed and finally shaped with a jack. This in turn leads to the sheet metal being misshapen and thus to the use of the filler. Note... The cleaner you make a repair panel, the less filler you have to use!
3) A hole was drilled to seal the cavity, which was then sealed with filler. Filling compound is usually water-absorbent, which in turn leads to corrosion in the long term.
4) The sheet metal was only spot-welded, which means that there is no full-surface connection with the rest of the body.
To put it in a nutshell, if the repair panels had been properly preformed, fitted and welded over the entire surface, you would have saved yourself a weld seam that could rust again due to condensation. Which brings me to closing the hole in the wheel arch for cavity preservation with filler. As a rule, a rubber plug is inserted there. Only a layer of zinc stray was applied as rust prevention for the repair panels. Generally, however, a welding and epoxy primer is applied. This would then ensure long-term rust prevention. As I said, I'm complaining at a very high level here. But the procedure is okay for a hobby repair.
Some bad chad going on there ...nice job
Sheer artistry.
Ti ringrazio per il modo migliore per questa riparazione. Complimenti 🙌
What a brilliant job
Great job -- great skill, and looks fantastic.
kilangan dito magaling ka talagang mag welding
Very nice job 👏
Amazing job, no way I could pull this off.
Well done with limited tools and resources 👍
Like u 18:29 18:29
Best Work 👍
Beautiful job. Can’t even tell there was a problem
Good work bro,
Wow. That's really impressive.