Nice job. It’s tough to weld thin rotted metal. With an older car this isn’t a job that will last for years. He has taken care of the gaping rust hole which was the problem. But it is a repair that will last several years with slight surface rusting through the paint. You just have to keep touching up the light surface rust.
The end result is excellent! Everyone has their own style, and different levels of training. If you want to complain then post a link to your video on how to do it better.
Excellent ❤ When I had rust holes on my vehicle in 2010. I first sand it with a sand paper until I saw silver mental on the edge of the hole, than I used rust protection spray, than I filled the hole with a wire mesh, and I applied fiber polyester on top of the wire mesh, than I sand it down with sand paper, than a applied primer paint and than finally painted it. It was my weekend hobby which only costed me about $50 from Walmart and safety gloves, mask and glasses from the dollar store. The final presentation was okay on my job, but this man job is excellent, love it ❤, thank you sir.
Nice work! There’s always that guy that criticizes everything, if you don’t try you don’t learn . And welding is not something you learn from one day to another. Same with bondo and sending it . Awesome job bro
Yes, shocking. People love to give constructive critisism so that the video maker and others can learn and improve. How rude... We're all here to learn and improve. Good video nonetheless!
You have to apply a special primer before you cab apply body filler. Body filler is really only supposed to be used over glass, or bare metal. Fiberglass is water proof, and is stronger than standard body filler.
Wow. Lots of work for that old car. I mean i also fixed corrosion on my old car, but there was no need to paint over it with this much different coats. Metal was added, welded, filled, sanded, base paint, and two additional passes with paint. No problem 5+ years already.
Crucial to use .024 mig wire and have a air hose to keep metal cool as you spot weld. Heat easily warps metal and blows holes in it . Slow is smooth and and smooth is fast . Nice job 👍
I have done a similar general concept. Instead of pipe and steel hammer for shaping the new metal, I use an old piece of firewood/log and a rubber mallet. I feel like this helps me get a more "organic" shape. This is important because instead of welding I use JB Weld Kwik Weld to "glue" the piece on. Having ground down the edges of the new metal, I use more JB Weld to fill in the gap. This does mean the new metal is sitting "on top of" the old metal, instead of flush with it. But with ground-down edges and gap filled in, once painted it's barely-visible in a location like this. I also like to spray the inside of the void with Fluid Film, which is a lanolin anti-rust compound. I've done this with two vehicles so far and am pleased with the results, time will tell how it holds up.
Good enough!!! 👍 No need to be a perfect job but more than good enough to be around people and neighbors where you don’t have to be embarrassed. Thnx for sharing 😊
@nigelhopkinson6614 The only thing that necessarily needs to be done differently is the filler. It'll eventually cause problems. It looks good, though, and will probably last while he has the car.
Dude, you're a real professional. My hats off to you. May I ask... how many years of experience you have with... well with everything you just demonstrated here?
On my Chevy van big rust on lower under doors I got some ABS black plastic 6 in and ran it through a table saw cut it in half. Two pieces the length from tire to tire. Drilled out resessed holes in top and Screwed in self tappers.. Black Caulk the top. Underneath I bent 5 bolts connected to anything. It's ugly Rusty mess but it worked and it will never rust there again. Oh I forgot I used old engine oil in a spray bottle mixed with some paint thinner and sprayed all the underneath before I started. For other projects, If you want free metal just find a commercial metal shop dumpster. If you get lucky you'll find the primed and painted with the plastic film overlay.
He makes it look easy it's not this is a very skilled individual also I wonder how many people have all these tools that he uses for a repair job like this you did a good job but this wasn't his first rodeo he probably works in the body shop and does this routinely or he works on his own side but he's very skilled and he knows what he's doing the average shade tree would have a very tough time pulling this off and specially going out and buying thousands and thousands of dollars worth of these tools it's almost probably cheaper to take it to a body shop then to buy these tools for a one-time fix but I do give him credit he's an expert in his field of body repair very few people have this kind of capability😊
Zintec is my go to now not just mild steel, not too much more for a patch and doesn't rust nearly as quickly as mild steel, most primers are porous so water goes through them, use a top coat any will do, they are only a key coat btw
I always use a cheese grater file, when the body filler is the consistency of rubber. This reduces how much sanding down of the filler I have to do. Once the filler hardens. I always machine sand, then block sand the area to eliminate any machine marks.
As first timer and quick repair on an old 22year old banger with 1.4 engine &66hp . it does the job and looks good in my screen so thumbs-up 👍 and well done 👏 ✔ 👍 another few years and it will be scraped or for parts so the job should last till then 👌👍👏💯✌❤☘
Good stuff, very satisfying to watch. Inspirational even. Have moat of the stuff in the garage to attempt this on the old 89 k1500 that could use a lil cab corner rocker attention 😅
For those who don’t understand why he did the tape the way he did for the paint coats, that’s for feathering and stuff for the actual color. It helps blend it to the original, 👍🏻
I think i would have just thrown some underseal on the weld and left it at that. Nice job. I need to have a go at welding. Where can you get scrap metal for the repair in the UK?
Welds look like mine 😅 I like that 🤝 I would grind the welds more down und apply 2 light coast of Epoxy 2K Primer before the sealant. After the 2k Epoxy it's protected from the outside. Never paint on bare metal !
I don't have good skill welding metals. So I actually use spray foam to create a mold to copy the entire section of the damage section before removing and rust and paint The mold help me a lot to get sheet metal size and shape, and apply Bondo to fit much better.
Nema nista, dok ne naučiš sam da si to odradiš, ostaješ bez opcija... Ili nađeš majstora koji hoće to da odradi, a moze tek za par meseci, ili se "limari" uopšte i ne hvataju za tako nešto...
Definitely an amature repair using an hobby welder, application of filler poor standard of welding poor with gaps but having said that it's a good effort.
This whole process reminds me of my 1st "truck", a 1962 Ford Falcon Ranchero. Or the "Rusty Bean Ranchero" as everyone called her. Yes, if i moved the carpet square i could see the road and the rear wheel wells, on the outside body panels, were rusted out. I always wanted to restore here but my dad nixed it. Want to find another one and restore it. With one "minor" modification. Drop a 302 BOSS in it rather than the 289 it came with. 😂😂😂 So when they said rust modifier, does that just mean Naval Jelly? Very nice work!
DAN i hear you and ditto to that . I use a marine grade filler , totally water proof and a lot stronger . Now i dont use it everywhere but in areas like that it is sometimes a blessing although harder to sand out . I have once had to repair a front fender and used 304 stainless for the lip , then blended with marine grade bondo on my old dodge truck . That was a 91 Dakota . That SS is still there , 400,000 plus . Canadian salt on the roads .
@@klausjensen9150 If I good understand you used marine grade filler with epoxy ? I often put epoxy on the rust and then only paint or putty. Thanks for info ;)
@chopperhehehe I literally just bought a welder, and a big peice of sheet metal. Started messing around with it until I was comfortable with my welds. Then I cut out the rust on my truck. Shaped a patch with cardboard, welded it in. Wasn't hard.
Schaut zwar so nachher besser aus aber das ist eigentlich nicht so gut die bleche stumpf zu schweißen. Vorallem nicht bei so wenig Spannung überlappend währe halbarer hast halt nur einen Absatz den man dann sieht. Nächstes mal sollten sie lieber mehr spannung nehmen das sind keine ordentlichen hefter. Trotzdem schönes Video.
One thing i learned as vette man. Fibwrglass doent rust. I dont for the life of me understand why so many people go ahead and use metal again on rust pron vehicals, espeially when they have a perfect template. Even body shop repais. The rust is back with a bubble in under a year and rusted out in a few years, tops. The only time to use steel is going into a pinchweld simply because of strenth and integrity. Id still dink that in and put mess over it. What most people dont understand saying use primer or paint the underside is that the weld melts it and immedialy starts rust as it cools
Sheet aluminum works just fine then pop rivet the panel in. Use a fibre glass reinforced body putty first sand then go over with BONDO sand then fill in with evercoat or laquar spot putty after gray primer. Then sand and prime again then wet sand l. And prime again. Paint top coat.
this is such an amazing job and there's beauty in skill and repairing stuff instead of throwing it away... yet I can't help myself thinking for the cost of all the tools used (not to mention having a house with a garage) you can probably buy another used 2001 civic :)
But unfortunately another used 2001 Civic will be as bad for rust as that one 😄 and the fun he had repairing it. I only say that as I spent the weekend swearing alot and repairing a sill on my van,🤣
you are right I am on a ranch and bought a 1979 crew cab GMC 4x4 3/4 ton it has rocker panel rust and door rust etc and yes I have access to a shop and have most of the tools to do this however I am not that detail geared to do body work and also busy with ranch work cattle and fencing etc I was going to "Mad Max" this truck by using the patch panels and glue and use rivets holding it together it will look pretty rough when done but also it will probably give the truck a cool frankenstein look as well.
It was a good repair but one thing that was missed was stonechipnprotection on bottom of sill this is a rubber type spray that goes on to give protection well from stonechips also applying this would have cover a percentage of your repair also. But good job none the less
Hmmm.... This reminds me of my early days in sheet metal repair. Nowadays, the sheet metal is properly fitted and adjusted. I haven't done stippling in a long time, the weld is ultimately continuous and as a result I also only need minimal filler. How many kg of putty have you applied now? Believe me, you can do it with less filler. You haven't done yourself any favors in the long run. But the result is impressive. 😉
@@My_Old_YT_Account Well... Not much, really. Basically, he did almost everything right. Only the execution leaves something to be desired. There are three or four points that I would criticize. 1) The wheel arch consists of two parts (the inner and outer wheel arch), or the inner and outer sills. However, only one panel was made to repair this area. Okay, that's complaining at a high level. 2) The repair plate seems very thick to me (I think it is a 2 mm plate), in contrast to the one used at the factory (the factory plate is 0.7 mm thick). Furthermore, the sheet metal was only roughly pre-formed and finally shaped with a jack. This in turn leads to the sheet metal being misshapen and thus to the use of the filler. Note... The cleaner you make a repair panel, the less filler you have to use! 3) A hole was drilled to seal the cavity, which was then sealed with filler. Filling compound is usually water-absorbent, which in turn leads to corrosion in the long term. 4) The sheet metal was only spot-welded, which means that there is no full-surface connection with the rest of the body. To put it in a nutshell, if the repair panels had been properly preformed, fitted and welded over the entire surface, you would have saved yourself a weld seam that could rust again due to condensation. Which brings me to closing the hole in the wheel arch for cavity preservation with filler. As a rule, a rubber plug is inserted there. Only a layer of zinc stray was applied as rust prevention for the repair panels. Generally, however, a welding and epoxy primer is applied. This would then ensure long-term rust prevention. As I said, I'm complaining at a very high level here. But the procedure is okay for a hobby repair.
Nice job! Way too involved for my schedule... but nice job! Just one question though: On a really old, rusty Honda... why? Or, why for ANY old rusty vehicle? Unless it's a classic or something potentially valuable in the auto market or seriously worth preserving. Then again , if you really like a car, and you can or have time for the work, then I suppose why not? It just looked really rusty underneath that ride as well as the areas you patched. Again... great job. But WAY above my time, expertise, skill, and patience level! 😛
Because some people don't want to spend the money to replace an otherwise good vehicle. I am doing a similar job on a car that is otherwise perfect. Why throw out a car that can go another 5 or so years?
Glad you actually did the repair the proper way and not just hid all the damage under body filler like some people do. Good work
😂, that’s a very very very shitty job. Technically, visually, overall
@kamurashev vell yeah but at least he didn't use any construction foam and shit like that 😂
@ 💯 %
I see men of culture appreciate a skilled man’s trade. This is a work of art!
Nice job. It’s tough to weld thin rotted metal. With an older car this isn’t a job that will last for years. He has taken care of the gaping rust hole which was the problem. But it is a repair that will last several years with slight surface rusting through the paint. You just have to keep touching up the light surface rust.
The end result is excellent!
Everyone has their own style, and different levels of training.
If you want to complain then post a link to your video on how to do it better.
Well said!
👍
Revolting lil humans love to knock others to prop their ego.
He's not the best welder, but will get better with time. He really tried to do the best job he can.
👍😃
I did a repair something like this back in the early eighties on an old Monte Carlo, the repair lasted eleven years, and then I sold it. Great job!
❤
Excellent ❤
When I had rust holes on my vehicle in 2010. I first sand it with a sand paper until I saw silver mental on the edge of the hole, than I used rust protection spray, than I filled the hole with a wire mesh, and I applied fiber polyester on top of the wire mesh, than I sand it down with sand paper, than a applied primer paint and than finally painted it. It was my weekend hobby which only costed me about $50 from Walmart and safety gloves, mask and glasses from the dollar store. The final presentation was okay on my job, but this man job is excellent, love it ❤, thank you sir.
Nice work! There’s always that guy that criticizes everything, if you don’t try you don’t learn . And welding is not something you learn from one day to another. Same with bondo and sending it . Awesome job bro
Professional body men love watching and critiquing home videos.
So true!
Yes, shocking. People love to give constructive critisism so that the video maker and others can learn and improve. How rude...
We're all here to learn and improve. Good video nonetheless!
Do Not call him a professional body man! Thats an insult to us that are. He got the job done, but I’d fire him for that crap
@@nkubitz1981are you dumb or can you not read?
@@nkubitz1981
And what would you have done differently as a - Professional Body Man? Be specific.
VET
Always good to primer before body filler. Moisture can seep behind bodyfiller I’ve seen large patches of rust form under body filler
You can primer before body filler?! What
primer is porous, won't stop moisture
You have to apply a special primer before you cab apply body filler. Body filler is really only supposed to be used over glass, or bare metal. Fiberglass is water proof, and is stronger than standard body filler.
Filler can go over etch primer - not normal primer
I always say if you're going to do a job, do it to the best of your ability and it looked like a proper job to me in the video, well done
Nice job! Probably would have seam sealed the larger panel inside before welding smaller patch to prevent rust
That’s incredible! You do EXCELLENT work! I have 2007 Ford E250 with rust like that and my body guy said he can’t fix it.
Change a guy😁😁😁
Glad to see people fix their older cars.Looks great.
this guy is a handyman, such repairs are only for those who resell cars with such repairs, a headache for the next car owners.
Wow. Lots of work for that old car. I mean i also fixed corrosion on my old car, but there was no need to paint over it with this much different coats. Metal was added, welded, filled, sanded, base paint, and two additional passes with paint. No problem 5+ years already.
Crucial to use .024 mig wire and have a air hose to keep metal cool as you spot weld. Heat easily warps metal and blows holes in it . Slow is smooth and and smooth is fast . Nice job 👍
That's a lot of work you put in. Looks great.
I have done a similar general concept. Instead of pipe and steel hammer for shaping the new metal, I use an old piece of firewood/log and a rubber mallet. I feel like this helps me get a more "organic" shape. This is important because instead of welding I use JB Weld Kwik Weld to "glue" the piece on. Having ground down the edges of the new metal, I use more JB Weld to fill in the gap. This does mean the new metal is sitting "on top of" the old metal, instead of flush with it. But with ground-down edges and gap filled in, once painted it's barely-visible in a location like this. I also like to spray the inside of the void with Fluid Film, which is a lanolin anti-rust compound. I've done this with two vehicles so far and am pleased with the results, time will tell how it holds up.
amazing that it can still be jacked up :D
He will have to weld that aswell
Good enough!!! 👍 No need to be a perfect job but more than good enough to be around people and neighbors where you don’t have to be embarrassed. Thnx for sharing 😊
I am not a pro welder and i dont have a exclusive car.but i do have a old car that i want to fix up.thanks for sharing your way.👍
Finger Bondo spread in wheelhouse shows experience and the easiest method... good job..POR 15 is amazing on rust prevention.
There's a TH-cam video called friends shouldn't let friends use por 15. Its actually not that good of a product.
Yeah por 15 sucks compared to Epoxy paint
This guy did a fantastic job on it!!!!😊
Excellent job. Highly skilled and professional work.
I love that youtuber's think it was a professional job
@nigelhopkinson6614 The only thing that necessarily needs to be done differently is the filler. It'll eventually cause problems. It looks good, though, and will probably last while he has the car.
Anyone who shows their welds on youtube is a braver person than I lol
Dude, you're a real professional. My hats off to you. May I ask... how many years of experience you have with... well with everything you just demonstrated here?
También me gustaria saber cuantos años de experiencia tienes
On my Chevy van big rust on lower under doors I got some ABS black plastic 6 in and ran it through a table saw cut it in half. Two pieces the length from tire to tire. Drilled out resessed holes in top and Screwed in self tappers.. Black Caulk the top. Underneath I bent 5 bolts connected to anything. It's ugly Rusty mess but it worked and it will never rust there again.
Oh I forgot I used old engine oil in a spray bottle mixed with some paint thinner and sprayed all the underneath before I started.
For other projects, If you want free metal just find a commercial metal shop dumpster. If you get lucky you'll find the primed and painted with the plastic film overlay.
He makes it look easy it's not this is a very skilled individual also I wonder how many people have all these tools that he uses for a repair job like this you did a good job but this wasn't his first rodeo he probably works in the body shop and does this routinely or he works on his own side but he's very skilled and he knows what he's doing the average shade tree would have a very tough time pulling this off and specially going out and buying thousands and thousands of dollars worth of these tools it's almost probably cheaper to take it to a body shop then to buy these tools for a one-time fix but I do give him credit he's an expert in his field of body repair very few people have this kind of capability😊
Ditch the Dremel, get a Katsu 3" mini grinder. Awesome bit of kit.
Zintec is my go to now not just mild steel, not too much more for a patch and doesn't rust nearly as quickly as mild steel, most primers are porous so water goes through them, use a top coat any will do, they are only a key coat btw
A lot of work, but the result is amazing ! 👍👍👍
I always use a cheese grater file, when the body filler is the consistency of rubber. This reduces how much sanding down of the filler I have to do. Once the filler hardens. I always machine sand, then block sand the area to eliminate any machine marks.
My mother and Grandmother did this to our mini van.
As first timer and quick repair on an old 22year old banger with 1.4 engine &66hp . it does the job and looks good in my screen so thumbs-up 👍 and well done 👏 ✔ 👍 another few years and it will be scraped or for parts so the job should last till then 👌👍👏💯✌❤☘
Если он в России, ещё лет десять минимум кататься
I have this exact spot of rust on my 2002 Civic hatch, the video makes it look so easy😭
You should have used Krown. There are plenty of factory rubber plugs in the underside of the rocker panel for access.
Hält wieder eine Zeitlang bei einem alten Auto perfekt gemacht😊❤
Great work! I don’t have many tools but you showed me that I do not need a whole work shop to accomplish this!
Good stuff, very satisfying to watch. Inspirational even. Have moat of the stuff in the garage to attempt this on the old 89 k1500 that could use a lil cab corner rocker attention 😅
I could have shit out of my ass a brand new car the time it took u to do this
I love the smell of rust when you grind it.
A friend of mine told me the guys use to put diff oil in the sills to protect from future rust; great idea
I have to do this on my Civic, exact same place, tanks for the tips, just need to learn how to weld now..
For those who don’t understand why he did the tape the way he did for the paint coats, that’s for feathering and stuff for the actual color. It helps blend it to the original, 👍🏻
The last hole, I would have welded that, not Bondo,. Way better than having a rust hole. Thanks for your approach.
It was a slap job. Slap it together, who cares how long it lasts.
I would have used a rubber bung 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇬🇧🇮🇪🇮🇪
Thank you for sharing looks better than it did before great job for a DIY 🏆
Amazing work! I should repair some points of my 76' Granada too.
I think i would have just thrown some underseal on the weld and left it at that. Nice job. I need to have a go at welding. Where can you get scrap metal for the repair in the UK?
Welds look like mine 😅 I like that 🤝 I would grind the welds more down und apply 2 light coast of Epoxy 2K Primer before the sealant. After the 2k Epoxy it's protected from the outside.
Never paint on bare metal !
Looking to have this done, what price would be fair?
How many hours were put into this job? Good work brother.
Great job as always Jason ! Those panels look great 👍
No .. very bed ..
I don't have good skill welding metals. So I actually use spray foam to create a mold to copy the entire section of
the damage section before removing and rust and paint The mold help me a lot to get sheet metal size and shape,
and apply Bondo to fit much better.
Then replace your whole quarter panel with sheet rock or cement wallboard
U Srbiji to limari neće da rade jel su monteri a ne limari. Svaka čast za video.
Nema nista, dok ne naučiš sam da si to odradiš, ostaješ bez opcija... Ili nađeš majstora koji hoće to da odradi, a moze tek za par meseci, ili se "limari" uopšte i ne hvataju za tako nešto...
You forgot to grind the welds smooth before you started putting the bondo!
Good job! It is too much work for general people though.
Definitely an amature repair using an hobby welder, application of filler poor standard of welding poor with gaps but having said that it's a good effort.
Outstanding Demo, Where are you located? How much does such a repair cost?
Thats a nice bit of bird poop welding covvered up with bondo great repair😮
The quality of workmanship matches the age and the condition of the car.
This whole process reminds me of my 1st "truck", a 1962 Ford Falcon Ranchero. Or the "Rusty Bean Ranchero" as everyone called her. Yes, if i moved the carpet square i could see the road and the rear wheel wells, on the outside body panels, were rusted out. I always wanted to restore here but my dad nixed it. Want to find another one and restore it. With one "minor" modification. Drop a 302 BOSS in it rather than the 289 it came with. 😂😂😂
So when they said rust modifier, does that just mean Naval Jelly?
Very nice work!
Really love your videos if you had just fill it with mesh and filler would it still be a Mot pass in the UK?
Probably only if they can't see it. For mot they can't touch anything, as in they can't poke for rust
Proud fan am I you did a very good job buddy thumbs up,you will always have criticism,take it positively and do even better,don't be discouraged.
Good work for 3 months. The rust will be waiting for the ouner under putty. 😢 Large problem for the cars from winter territory.
DAN i hear you and ditto to that . I use a marine grade filler , totally water proof and a lot stronger . Now i dont use it everywhere but in areas like that it is sometimes a blessing although harder to sand out . I have once had to repair a front fender and used 304 stainless for the lip , then blended with marine grade bondo on my old dodge truck . That was a 91 Dakota . That SS is still there , 400,000 plus . Canadian salt on the roads .
@@klausjensen9150 If I good understand you used marine grade filler with epoxy ?
I often put epoxy on the rust and then only paint or putty.
Thanks for info ;)
Really I wouldn't of never have guessed it hmmm 🤔🤔😅
Should add a few more years to the car. Nice job.👍
Wow nice job man ! realy cool video !
Thanks for the tips.
I bought a welder and gave this a shot with no experience.
It was actually very easy..
Lol
@@chopperhehehe I can email you the results if you wanna see.. lol
Hopefully you have welded more than this guy
@chopperhehehe I literally just bought a welder, and a big peice of sheet metal. Started messing around with it until I was comfortable with my welds. Then I cut out the rust on my truck. Shaped a patch with cardboard, welded it in.
Wasn't hard.
OK for mot standard work,wouldn't really call it welding though,more like a series of very weak tack welds,fair play to the guy for having a go
"we are going to do a quick repair job"
Ends up doing a a better job than my local auto body shops.
Your local body shops must be rough as a bears ass then!
way better
Schaut zwar so nachher besser aus aber das ist eigentlich nicht so gut die bleche stumpf zu schweißen. Vorallem nicht bei so wenig Spannung überlappend währe halbarer hast halt nur einen Absatz den man dann sieht.
Nächstes mal sollten sie lieber mehr spannung nehmen das sind keine ordentlichen hefter. Trotzdem schönes Video.
Great video! Can anyone tell me what gauge of sheet metal should be used? Thank you.
👏🏾 👏🏾 awesome job about to tackle same dilemma. Thanks for the demonstration
It was a pleasure to watch the progress of this work Thank you
Another quality job. I am sure it will last a few months depending n where you live
He did a great job, for a 22 year old vehicle, it's really good; In a few years it will be banned from running with this combustion engine.
What welder did you use? Did you have gas?
I would like to learn this kind of work/job...Nice work!
Good work! What camera ate you using?
One thing i learned as vette man. Fibwrglass doent rust. I dont for the life of me understand why so many people go ahead and use metal again on rust pron vehicals, espeially when they have a perfect template. Even body shop repais. The rust is back with a bubble in under a year and rusted out in a few years, tops. The only time to use steel is going into a pinchweld simply because of strenth and integrity. Id still dink that in and put mess over it. What most people dont understand saying use primer or paint the underside is that the weld melts it and immedialy starts rust as it cools
I like every video from zero to hero
Hello there what brand is your body filler? thanks😊
Wow! You make it look easy, but way beyond my pay grade.
Take time to bolster up your knowledge and your skill level yo dude what 😮
To me it's a really good job, congrats!
Whats that Song called... 4:40 😊😊😊😊...????
Its a 2500$ Honda, not a Duesenberg. Skill is commensurate with the subject being repaired. Keep at it, lad!
A right angle buffer with 3 inch rolox pad is better for cleaning flat surfaces
How long after you spray the paint would you let it dry out?
Os mercenários trocam logo a caixa....
Parabéns!!!💚💛💙🤍🇮🇱
Very good job! How much time ready?
Sheet aluminum works just fine then pop rivet the panel in. Use a fibre glass reinforced body putty first sand then go over with BONDO sand then fill in with evercoat or laquar spot putty after gray primer. Then sand and prime again then wet sand l. And prime again. Paint top coat.
this is such an amazing job and there's beauty in skill and repairing stuff instead of throwing it away... yet I can't help myself thinking for the cost of all the tools used (not to mention having a house with a garage) you can probably buy another used 2001 civic :)
But unfortunately another used 2001 Civic will be as bad for rust as that one 😄 and the fun he had repairing it. I only say that as I spent the weekend swearing alot and repairing a sill on my van,🤣
❤that is right,,ii love to do that. Hopefully soon will have a big house with a big garage..then will be busy. Good job.
you are right I am on a ranch and bought a 1979 crew cab GMC 4x4 3/4 ton it has rocker panel rust and door rust etc and yes I have access to a shop and have most of the tools to do this however I am not that detail geared to do body work and also busy with ranch work cattle and fencing etc I was going to "Mad Max" this truck by using the patch panels and glue and use rivets holding it together it will look pretty rough when done but also it will probably give the truck a cool frankenstein look as well.
Aficionado
@@ggj666 yo tengo un accord 97 con oxidación en donde va la rueda de refaccion y en la parte de delante del motor así ando en el
One Jacking Point done Three more to go.. 😂😂😂
Good Job.. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 👍🏼
Would this be damaged by high pressure car wash?
Good job bro. I’ll do this to my ford f150
It was a good repair but one thing that was missed was stonechipnprotection on bottom of sill this is a rubber type spray that goes on to give protection well from stonechips also applying this would have cover a percentage of your repair also. But good job none the less
It's a lot easier and more correct to put a part or full sill on it. When that paint sinks, it will show the bollocks underneath.
Amazing this looks like a lot of work. How much would a job like this cost? Did this take you a day or 2?
No only took me 3 months.
What gage of sheet metal should you use on body repairs?
Hmmm.... This reminds me of my early days in sheet metal repair. Nowadays, the sheet metal is properly fitted and adjusted. I haven't done stippling in a long time, the weld is ultimately continuous and as a result I also only need minimal filler. How many kg of putty have you applied now? Believe me, you can do it with less filler. You haven't done yourself any favors in the long run. But the result is impressive. 😉
What should be done for a long lasting repair?
@@My_Old_YT_Account Well... Not much, really. Basically, he did almost everything right. Only the execution leaves something to be desired. There are three or four points that I would criticize.
1) The wheel arch consists of two parts (the inner and outer wheel arch), or the inner and outer sills. However, only one panel was made to repair this area. Okay, that's complaining at a high level.
2) The repair plate seems very thick to me (I think it is a 2 mm plate), in contrast to the one used at the factory (the factory plate is 0.7 mm thick). Furthermore, the sheet metal was only roughly pre-formed and finally shaped with a jack. This in turn leads to the sheet metal being misshapen and thus to the use of the filler. Note... The cleaner you make a repair panel, the less filler you have to use!
3) A hole was drilled to seal the cavity, which was then sealed with filler. Filling compound is usually water-absorbent, which in turn leads to corrosion in the long term.
4) The sheet metal was only spot-welded, which means that there is no full-surface connection with the rest of the body.
To put it in a nutshell, if the repair panels had been properly preformed, fitted and welded over the entire surface, you would have saved yourself a weld seam that could rust again due to condensation. Which brings me to closing the hole in the wheel arch for cavity preservation with filler. As a rule, a rubber plug is inserted there. Only a layer of zinc stray was applied as rust prevention for the repair panels. Generally, however, a welding and epoxy primer is applied. This would then ensure long-term rust prevention. As I said, I'm complaining at a very high level here. But the procedure is okay for a hobby repair.
great work ! if u can DIY this will save you $$$ compared to to a professional body shop. i have small stick welder not sure if that will work though.
Grate video how thick is the repair panel and what steel is it?
Bondo absorbs moisture like a sponge! Counter productive. Use LBI advanced fillers instead that do not absorb moisture.
Nice job! Way too involved for my schedule... but nice job!
Just one question though: On a really old, rusty Honda... why? Or, why for ANY old rusty vehicle? Unless it's a classic or something potentially valuable in the auto market or seriously worth preserving. Then again , if you really like a car, and you can or have time for the work, then I suppose why not? It just looked really rusty underneath that ride as well as the areas you patched.
Again... great job. But WAY above my time, expertise, skill, and patience level! 😛
Hello, Thanks! This job was done before the mandatory periodic vehicle inspection, this car would not pass it with this kind of rust holes.
Because some people don't want to spend the money to replace an otherwise good vehicle. I am doing a similar job on a car that is otherwise perfect. Why throw out a car that can go another 5 or so years?