Great content! This is what TH-cam is about. If you want him to film it on 4K, YOU buy him a GoPro... He's not trying to be a TV personality or a Producer. Just a guy with knowledge trying to share it w/o all the tech tricks or fake smiles! Thank you sir!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
Jerry, I've acquired a '65 Mustang convertible and I've sanded it to metal. I have no experience in body repair but your videos are like a one-on-one body shop instruction and I appreciate you sir. I'm happy that each repair is looking great!
You've come to the right place to learn how it's really done is high production body shops. As you work on your project, if you have any ?s feel free to ask - doesn't have to relate to the topic of the video. I answer comment once or twice a day.
This is a great video I have some rust on my 63' chevy nova and my husband is on his 14th bladder and kidney cancer so I have to depend on myself to fix my rust spots I don't have money to pay a body shop my mortgage comes first so videos like this help me greatly.Thank you for sharring was very informative God bless 🙏💜
You can also mix fiberglass resin with plastic filler to make a brushable filler. Use the correct ratio of hardeners for each, then mix them together and brush it on. Really nice for skimming complex shapes and custom work
Hello Jerry. My wife's 05 camery needs some love she has reluctantly, retired it from daily use. It has over 315.000 miles on it a 2.4 banger, driven highway all of its life, but we both decided she should get something newer. She has a career yet, I am retired. I am going to keep it around for a backup car. Little bubbling rust in the rear left wheelwell area other wise she is solid. The camery will be my next garage project. Take care.
I love these videos. You show how to get professional results with limited resources. None of this hot rod network 80k in snap on and Eastwood tools. Real stuff for real people.
You can apply it to the back or both sides if you want. Or... undercoat or seal the back to stop future rust. It's all up to you and what you think will stop the rust. Personally, I think drainage of the inside of the panel is huge. If it can drain and stay dry in there, you're gold :)
I went to college for autobody back in 91, actually that repair was in our autobody book.That is actually a technique taught in colleges,done right the way you did it can last year's.
@@joshuakeith8710 If I can get to the back side, I like to use a good spray on undercoat that stays rubbery like Sem, 3M, etc. Before applying though its good to clean and or sand blast the back. Honestly it you were able to do this it will last forever. No moisture = No rust. Divide both sides by (No) and you're left with moisture = rust - how 'bout that! Just messing around - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I learned basic bodywork from good ol' boys that still think straight enamel is the only way to go. Lol! I'm glad your dad didn't drink. THAT'S JUST MORE FOR ME! 🍻 Thanks for the videos. They're great!
Thank you . I have done PDR dent repair for almost 30 years , but always wants to learn new things to increase my abilities. Looking forward to your upcoming videos. 😊
My dad used to be big on picks and stuff like that - he had a bunch of those things in the 70's - I never had the patients. That's something I have to work at actually :)
One think that can help the repair last is to try and make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain/dry. Even if have to drill a drain hole or two on the back side or bottom :)
It can hold up for a long time if you can coat and seal the back side of the panel (undercoating or thick rustoleum paint. I've done it where I sand blasted the back and spread a layer of bondo back there and it'll hold up forever because no water/salt can get to it. Even if you can get some spray oil back there to slow down the rust. Jerry
@@brendan1675 It will last forever if you seal the back side and allow the salt water to drain off (not collect) - like sand blast it and hit it with good undercoating. It'll probably start bubbling or showing rust again with in five years if you do not seal the back. To be very honest, it is not the most quality repair, I prefer welding but still trying to seal or prevent rust from the back side.
Another great video! You are amazing and so nice taking the time to make all these great videos for the common folk to repair there own vehicles, a little knowledge and motivation goes a long way! Very nice job and like you said most inportant part is coating the backside whenever possible!
That's great that you asked that. I just made one but will be uploading it - not this Friday but the next with grit of paper. For now though - this video is a sandpaper guide - th-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/w-d-xo.html This one might be start to finish but it's welding - th-cam.com/video/VBLlA-VAusw/w-d-xo.html Hope they help ❄🎄😊
Have you done series o f videos doing body work out side while dealing with temperatures and weather? I have no room in my garage to do any body work. Thank you again for your videos, they are awesome.
@@LakesideAutobody 2nd gen body man... Nice! I learned a lot about cars from older guys when I was young and cherish everything I learned including using lead and solder. Helped spray a lot of Dupont Centari with a 2000 pack mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket on Saturday mornings...
For DA sanding around your body work, it's very common to start with 120 grit or even old 40 grit on a bondo hog to knock the grinder marks down fast. Then move to 220-240 further out and scuff even further to make sure you don't get primer on shiny paint. This is what body shops use - internet, TV, etc. will probably say finer grit. For speed and production though start with a course grit and move to finer - much faster and less materials being wasted.
Nice repair! I used to do these kind of repairs all the time when I was a teenager (before I had a welder) or for my daily drivers. Sometimes if the hole wasn't too big I would ding in the hole and use Tigerhair strand filler under then regular on top.
As long as the panel can drain and dry out inside, there's no telling how long it will last. Basically if it stays dry - forever. That being said, I usually get quite a few years out of a decent repair - like over 5 easily - again as long as the panel can drain and stay somewhat dry inside :)
Hi I'm going to try this on the top of a front fender on a 04 jeep wrangler. Will this last with rocks beating on the under side? How far around the perimeter of the hole do you knock it down? 1/2" or more?
Yes about 1-2"" will work - even more is better. Don't be afraid to go ahead an knock it down good - like 1/4" on average.. That way you have a lot of room to lay your fiberglass in there along with a nice rigid layer of filler :)
Thank you for the videos and real world repairs that people with real determination and only a few tools and minimal supplies can do at home on a nice day outside or in a home garage . I have had great success doing just that for years thanks to exact touchup paints being readily available in a spray can . I recently restored a 2006 5.3 gxp Grand Prix black I repaired rockers and rear quarters using fibreglass and using spray can black acrylic enamel and then clear coat after rubbing down the whole car and energy cured touchup up areas I applied couple coats of quality cleaner wax . The gxp with it original mint Alcoa Oem rims and paint correction that’s better than new car shine get loads of compliments at self serve gas stations from many as there are very few on the road here in southwestern Ontario Canada .
You're welcome. It's great to hear about your projects and repairs. I'll have to check into this car - must be faster than heck! Thanks for the comment and have a good week my friend :)
Fiberglass can be used over bare metal - just like bondo. Prime after you finish your body work - I've never seen anyone in a body shop prime before doing the body work - applying bondo or fiberglass etc.
I have a small 1inch round rust hole near my gas cap gonna cave and pave it and layer up some fibreglass to fill the hole today hopefully all goes well
I have went through three auto body schools. This fix is only good if you can get behind it to put a water barrier behind it. Another new product on the market is panel adhesive and a piece of metal over the spot. The issue with that is feathering which 9 times out of 10 the eye will not see if you you are a little high. Cutting the metal out and butt welding is the only way to make good as new.
Hey jerry, great work💯 I’m just wondering what kind of pad is on your air gun towards the end of the video when you were using the gun and the 40 grit sanding block before the primer
Hi Jake - thanks. I think you were seeing the pad on the DA sander. That's just like a stiff black foam pad that all the National Detroit DA sanders came with back in maybe the 80's. It's almost like an interface pad of today. Let me know if this answers your ? :)
Sorry - I do now - under the description. In this video I just used "Bondo" brand fiberglass cloth and resin. If you look under the description of my newer videos you'll see "Tools and Materials" list - Thanks WMD - have a good week :)
Could I use this on a broken ac high pressure vehicle line?? I don't have the money for the part, I wanted to cut the aluminum with pipe cutter then join the 2 back together. Then jb weld tf out of it..
I would go for the JB right from the start if you can. I once had a hole in a egr return pipe (hotter than heck). Ground it clean and JB welded it. It lasted forever - probably still there today. Let me know if you try it and how it holds up - worth a try. See this video for a repair like that (sort of): th-cam.com/video/L2hU1sog4UU/w-d-xo.html (right at the 2 minutes and 37 second mark) Jerry
Got an old car trunk lid that has more holes than not and I warped the hell out of it with the first patch panel so everything else is about to get this here. I think I'm going from the inside to avoid any piling on such a flat surface. I just wonder how heat will affect it and how long it will last. I'm about to find out!
If i sand blast and undercoat (just spray bomb type) the back I do it before or after painting - your choice. If I use old motor oil I always treat the back after paint work - paint doesn't like oil. Check this vid out for rust prevention. It really works well - th-cam.com/video/DqxMHCizkUE/w-d-xo.html
Many years ago when I went to schol for autobody After you sand down the filler you prime it dry it and you use nitro Stan spot putty sand it when dry and you wet sand with 240 grit sandpaper wet . Prime again paint .the spot putty fills in sanding marks. Do not see it mentioned why?
Thank you for your informative videos. I watched this one and another you made, concerning using fiberglass as an alternative to welding. I might mention that I had a problem. I used regular filler after the fiberglass application and the glass at the ends of the patch popped through my primer. I know I used resin to smooth it all but after sanding it down, I had this issue. In your other video, there was a small segment where you mentioned Bondo Glass. I ground off my filler and bought some of this and it seems to be working. All that said, did I do something wrong?
Sorry - I was not able to get to your first post on this for some reason. When you sand your fiberglass, you'll want to make sure the edges are smooth and "feathered" into the metal. Your filler should also feather into the metal. Everything should be smooth when you spray your primer surfacer. Make sure you use "High Build" primer surfacer (Urethane Primer Surfacer or Lacquer Primer Surfacer) as this has thickness which covers up the bodywork imperfections. You will then block sand this and it will be perfect. Here's a video on block sanding: th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this answers you ? - if not ask again - Jerry
You do fine body work. However, I was wondering if you could apply less body filler, as it seems after looking at numerous videos from Lakeside auto body quite a bit of filler is applied and 80- 90% or so of it is then removed. Looks like extra work but you are the expert. Thank you for all the tips and techniques!
When I worked I was on commission so I try to get it in one shot. A lot of guys would wipe a thin layer, sand, spread another layer, sand, etc. I don't mind wasting the filler as it is pretty cheap - 19/gal . You can do it both ways - it's up to the individual. Both ways have the same longevity. Good question William :)
Any suggestions on how to get POR 15 not to dry up in the can? I have used it, love it, but it likes to create a dry layer/gets chunky when opening the can a few days later. Thanks!
Does it matter which type of fiberglass to use? Is Woven Roving better than Chopped Strain? I'm use to Chopped Strain but if the Woven is better, I'll go that route. Thanks in advance!!🤙🏽🤟🏽
To me it doesn't matter. I think chopped is easier to work with though. Maybe someone has a reason why one is better than the other though. Good question. Have a good weekend :)
First allow for drainage - any way you can. That's the most important thing. The panel must be able to dry out inside. Second, if you can get to the back side - sand blast it real quick or at least clean it and use some good 3M or similar undercoating to seal the repair. Last, I swear by this - new or old repaired cars - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
It will hold up really well if you can undercoat the back side - if not, it depends on a lot of stuff like water, salt, winters etc. But to be totally honest, if you drive it in the winter and salt, I'd say about three years and you'll begin to see some return of rust of bubbling of the paint.
Thanks Robert - with proper drainage so that no debris can build up inside the panel, it can last quite a long time. If never driven in the winter, it will last 10+ or more years with ease :)
For grinding bare metal (40 grit fiber disc) For sanding bondo (always 40 to start then 80 to finish) For blockiing primer (80, 120, or 150) - 80 for real big stuff. For finish sanding primer 220, 320, or 400 wet sand. For color or clear paint sanding before buffing (800-1500) - your choice. That's it - hope that helps - Jerry
You're welcome. I've had very good luck with fiberglass if I can seal the back or keep it dry by making sure it has drainage. Otherwise yes, welding is the answer along with panel adhesive or even JB weld. See: th-cam.com/video/nbtL75CXmuQ/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/w-d-xo.html Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for replying. I have a nice 69 Firebird but my 15 year old daughter wanted a C10. The bed has some small homes above the wheel well. Perhaps I’ll try the fiberglass if the rust isn’t too bad. She’ll be a new driver so I don’t want the truck to be concourse quality. Just want it to look decent. We can always really restore it down the road if she doesn’t get into an accident. Thanks again for your help. I live in Connecticut. What state is your shop in?
Any brand fiberglass cloth will work. Don't listen to the chatter or the internet,TV or magazines about bondo products. They are all fine - the filler, the reinforced filler, red lacquer glazing putty, fiberglass resin, cloth, etc. "bondo" got it's bad name from folks that used the products in the wrong way - applying them incorrectly.
@@LakesideAutobody 100% agree . Many should never touch their cars ever lololol. Especially lazy people body work is hard work and attention to detail bond aka plastic fill epoxy and fibreglass are excellent for repairs providing it’s prepped correctly .
Great video really good job you did I'm kind of learning yet. I've never used fiberglass I am about to experiment with it with my truck because it definitely needs some body work
Quick question, Jerry . Is smc fiber glass resin. The same as polyester, fiberglass resin.. I am working on a truck semi are accordingly is made out of SMC if you used the polyester fiberglass Resin and creates a reaction, causing the repair to fail. Is this a myth buster? Are they making pay more or it’s true
SMC is a combination of glass-fiber and polyester material molded into panels using a compression process. Fiberglass is glass strands that are woven into cloth and layered using polyester resin. They are close but not exactly the same animal. That being said, I have fixed SMC panels using old fashioned fiberglass and fiberglass resin and it holds up well. Here's an example - th-cam.com/video/d7XJMld4cMY/w-d-xo.html Like anything though, it's always best to go with the correct products and procedures. I like the question and am writing that down. Good topic for a myth buster type video. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 You're welcome. The most common answer I found is, "You can use smc repair on fiberglass but not fiberglass repair on smc." That sounds legit. But...again, I have used fiberglass resin on SMC and it did the job.
@@LakesideAutobody they say the bondo glass is smc certified. I will sand again and put more to make it stronger. There’s a video out there when the guy rips it off . But there’s no primer on it .
Cheese grater is from Amazon, 40 grit to start with on the filler, 80 grit to finish the filler, 120 grit to DA with or feather edge, scuff with 3M scuff pad any shiny paint you might get primer on and then prime - glad you like the video
Nice video and helpful. This will work well to patch a small spot on my 2000 Wrangler rocker panel before I put the rocker panel guards on. Thanks for going through the steps of using the fiberglass first, then how to apply the body filler.
It's not necessary but it could help when trying to undercoat the back. Even w/o undercoating the back it should hold up well as long as you have drain holes or a way that salt water and debris can escape.
In a few years you'll probably have a bit of bubbling if you drive it in salt water. If you coat the backside or allow it to drain and dry by drilling holes in the bottom of the fender, it can last much longer. Remember.... no moisture = no rust.
Years if there is good drainage so the inside can drain and dry out - free of debris, leaves, needles, etc. Here's a follow up video on same repair - neighbors truck (still fine today) - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Lakeside, do you happen to have a video that covers cutting out a section of a “replacement panel” to fit a section that you have removed, say of course due to rust, & you’re trying to get your replacement piece to fit as “perfectly” as possible before welding it in?? Thanks buddy!!
@@gimmefuel7268 Do you mean no over lapping? If so, the only thing I have on that is this - th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html This may answer a few ?s too - th-cam.com/video/Q3NMsZq09Uc/w-d-xo.html
It basically feather edges the paint - makes a smooth transition from the thickness of the paint to the metal. Yes you can do it by hand. Start with 80 grit and move to 120 then 220 - prime - then paint.
Not true at all. I think if the metal was like 10 feet long there may be enough expansion to cause problems but with small distances, you are probably talking about a fraction of a hair which is about .0001" or most likely none at all. Here's proof - The lower passenger fender of this truck was done the exact same way about 2 years ago :)
This will not last as long as welded patch panels or panel adhesive - but it is an accepted auto body repair in the industry. Without protection on the back - you'll probably get 2-3 years out of it before seeing the rust start to push the filler away from the metal. However, if you sand blast or sand and seal the back with rubberized undercoating or something similar and allow for drainage, it will last forever really as there's no way for moisture to affect the patched area.
I got rockers going out on my car. After I clean up the rust there will probably be 6” x 3” hole. How would I shape the fiberglass in my case since the hole is much larger than the one in this video?
The easiest way to cover larger areas. Is to use a "form" . By form read anything that can temporarily hold the desired shape until it dry enough to self support. All is fair game. Metal mesh, aluminum or stainless steel work quite well. So does wax paper, plastic bags, cardboard, duct tape... BTW duct tape is perfect to hold plastic or paper in place. Depending on resin type, material, thickness, hardner, etc. We might be talking about 10 minutes to overnight. So your "form" is a very temporary need. After a single layer of cloth, others can be added later. Bridging a hole can be a minutes thing! ;-)
What do you think about por15 and fiberglass cloth? Softball size hole on my truck was patched with fiberglass and it shrunk and pulled away, I have no idea how they did it though. Thanks!!
Here's how they did it - th-cam.com/video/4LdXFvdzSDs/w-d-xo.html If you do it like my video, it will last a long time especially if you can seal the back side of it with a really good undercoating - even roof tar. I know that sounds crazy but you want something that doesn't flake off. Something that stays flexible and gooey on the back to seal it off from salt water.
You want to use a rust converter on the back or it will continue to rust and your repair will fall out. Then you can undercoat over the rust converter.
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. If it was rusted on the front, it will be rusted behind. Rust converter will convert any of that rust and will stop the rusting process. Even when you grind off rust it is hard to get it all and even a small amount will continue rusting. You could use some POR15 if you can get access to the back of the repaired panel.
@@peterjlindley I know this sounds crazy but In Canada they give the underside of cars oil baths. After some time it gets like an old valve cover and doesn't rust. I personally make sure pinch welds (bottoms of doors, deck lids, hoods etc) are coated with used motor oil. I'm always looking for ideas to coat the back side of repairs - even using roof tar or something that stays gooey but is cheap. Any ideas? Jerry
The sander for the body filler is a National Detroit Bondo Hog, The bondo shaver tool or cheese grater tool is a Stanley® 21-299A, Surform® 10" Half Round Blade.
Sorry, should have put a link to what that is. It is using sand paper on a nice flat block to make sure your filler or primer is perfect - "block sanding" Here's a few vids on that:th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/itEzOW8Knzs/w-d-xo.html I have more videos on that topic under the auto body tips and techniques playlist. Hope that helps
Thanks, very helpful video. I have 2 holes that were cut into my tractor engine cover (previous owner/previous engine) about 3" x 4" square. Is there any hole size limitations? How can the fiberglass cloth be supported from sagging while the resin is setting up?
Get some paint sticks that fit across the span of the rear of the hole, and put magnets on the ends of the sticks. Lay the sticks from behind and perhaps place foil or wax paper between the fiberglass and the wood sticks to keep the resin from bonding to them. I only saw this today, so my apologies for being late!
@@FIGGY65 I use spray foam in a can. Spray the foam in the hole, let dry, sand it down, fiberglass then putty. Beautiful every time and it lasts for years!
You can use cardboard with a sheet of wax paper over it and place the cardboard on the inside of the repair once it’s hard remove the cardboard and wax paper once the repair is completed and paint is cured apply some oil behind the repair and then brush on some asphalt black undercoat working it into the oiled metal and fibreglass so water and dampness and salt can’t soak into repair don’t skip the oiling trust me 50 years experience it works . The Encapsulates only cover rust I don’t use then on old metal , they would be fine on brand new car/truck under wheel wells and frames floors but won’t stop inner frame rust or seam or weld rust
How long does this type of repair last for. I always thought when metal is rotted out like that you had to cut it out so it doesn't continue to rot out, even if it was sand blasted?
If you seal both sides it will last forever (well almost). If you don't seal the back or at least give the water and moisture a way to drain out - you're right it will return. The rate depends on how often it's driven in salt and moisture. If it's a trailer queen it will again last forever :)
I love this style of video. Feels like I’m watching a classic how to video
This was made with one of those VHS cameras you wear on your shoulder - A Panasonic Omni Moive PV950
@@LakesideAutobody it looks awesome. More videos should look and sound like this! Also great explanation on fiberglass cloth
@@serjburj8506 Thanks my friend - feel free to ask ?s any time - I get to them 1-2 times a day - appreciate the positive comment 😊✌
Great content! This is what TH-cam is about. If you want him to film it on 4K, YOU buy him a GoPro...
He's not trying to be a TV personality or a Producer. Just a guy with knowledge trying to share it w/o all the tech tricks or fake smiles! Thank you sir!
You're welcome - glad you like the video content. Have a great weekend :)
Have a question, is this normal fibreglass resin ? or BODYFILLER sold in autoshops ?
I've a 1991 that needs some operating, Thanks alot! happy days
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Remington Easton Instablaster ;)
@@kezza10mail is a regular fiberglass boat polyester resin and reg boat cloth. Bondo is polyester too compatible...
Jerry, I've acquired a '65 Mustang convertible and I've sanded it to metal. I have no experience in body repair but your videos are like a one-on-one body shop instruction and I appreciate you sir. I'm happy that each repair is looking great!
You've come to the right place to learn how it's really done is high production body shops. As you work on your project, if you have any ?s feel free to ask - doesn't have to relate to the topic of the video. I answer comment once or twice a day.
Jerry never buy Ford signing of from the Philippines
@@anthonymaniz1933The old f150s with the harvesters are nice though
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen on TH-cam. Thanks for explaining everything.
You're so welcome DJ - have a good week :)
Dude you ARE the Bob Ross of of autos. :)
I'll have to look up this Bob Ross fellow. He better not be a dork!
This is a great video I have some rust on my 63' chevy nova and my husband is on his 14th bladder and kidney cancer so I have to depend on myself to fix my rust spots I don't have money to pay a body shop my mortgage comes first so videos like this help me greatly.Thank you for sharring was very informative God bless 🙏💜
You're welcome - feel free to ask any questions you have - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you Jerry
I've used fiberglass a lot and have often wonder why people don't use it. Now I know they do. And it works great.
It does - my dad worked at some dealerships in Michigan in the 70's and that's what he used.
Does it last? That’s what I want to know.
Fiberglass cloth is a waste of time and I would use old T-shirt fabric .
You can also mix fiberglass resin with plastic filler to make a brushable filler. Use the correct ratio of hardeners for each, then mix them together and brush it on. Really nice for skimming complex shapes and custom work
Hello Jerry. My wife's 05 camery needs some love she has reluctantly, retired it from daily use. It has over 315.000 miles on it a 2.4 banger, driven highway all of its life, but we both decided she should get something newer. She has a career yet, I am retired. I am going to keep it around for a backup car. Little bubbling rust in the rear left wheelwell area other wise she is solid. The camery will be my next garage project. Take care.
Very cool - keep me posted or updated on your progress my friend 😊✌🎆
I love these videos. You show how to get professional results with limited resources. None of this hot rod network 80k in snap on and Eastwood tools. Real stuff for real people.
Thanks - what type of Fender do you play?
I have a 2009 fender Mexican Stratocaster and a 1971 fender f-35 acoustic
Really like this style of video! This is what TH-cam is about!
Thanks Carl - I appreciate the support :)
@@LakesideAutobody you're welcome. Thank you again, best wishes.
Since the fender was off the vehicle what are the cons on applying fiberglass on the backside versus the front? Thank you for showing these videos.
You can apply it to the back or both sides if you want. Or... undercoat or seal the back to stop future rust. It's all up to you and what you think will stop the rust. Personally, I think drainage of the inside of the panel is huge. If it can drain and stay dry in there, you're gold :)
I hate working with fiberglass. But I also love working with fiberglass. Does that make sense? I'm sure some of you understand completely
Most definitely 😁 most everything about working on cars is a love, hate relationship.
Brilliant, clear, to the point and.... I'm going to tackle my rusty wheel arch tomorrow! Thank you!! 😊
You're welcome - let me know how it goes. If you are having fun, that's success right there :)
BEST Tutorial Videos period.no BS , clear concise, succinct ,To the Point.Thank You.
I went to college for autobody back in 91, actually that repair was in our autobody book.That is actually a technique taught in colleges,done right the way you did it can last year's.
Especially if you can seal the back side. Thanks for the comment. Jerry
I think nothing is wrong with IT As long As the structure of the car is ok and not half of the bodywork is made of it. Doors, quarter panels, why not.
@@LakesideAutobody What do you seal the backside with?
@@joshuakeith8710 If I can get to the back side, I like to use a good spray on undercoat that stays rubbery like Sem, 3M, etc. Before applying though its good to clean and or sand blast the back. Honestly it you were able to do this it will last forever. No moisture = No rust. Divide both sides by (No) and you're left with moisture = rust - how 'bout that! Just messing around - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody LMAO! Keep up the great work! I hope your channel continues to grow!
Good stuff! I've patched lots of rusty cars up with fiberglass. The beer, fiberglass resin, and plastic filler buzz is the best!
Thanks - that's all my dad ever used and he worked at a quite a few shops and dealerships back in the 70/80's. He didn't drink beer though :)
@@LakesideAutobody I learned basic bodywork from good ol' boys that still think straight enamel is the only way to go. Lol!
I'm glad your dad didn't drink. THAT'S JUST MORE FOR ME! 🍻
Thanks for the videos. They're great!
Great video! Clear and straight to the point, showing all steps.
Thank you
Thank you . I have done PDR dent repair for almost 30 years , but always wants to learn new things to increase my abilities. Looking forward to your upcoming videos. 😊
My dad used to be big on picks and stuff like that - he had a bunch of those things in the 70's - I never had the patients. That's something I have to work at actually :)
Nice job, good simple explanation.
Note: you really should hit the bare metal with an etching or epoxy primer prior top filler.
Thanks for the support Tom - have a good week my friend :)
My 2008 F150 has rust in the exact same spot..I am going to follow your steps exactly..thanks for the awesome video!
One think that can help the repair last is to try and make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain/dry. Even if have to drill a drain hole or two on the back side or bottom :)
Yep..I plan on taking out the inner wheel liner so I can get at the back of the fender. Thanks again
I like this technique, I have a Ford ranger and I have similar rust spots!! Thanks for your ideas!
You're welcome :)
Nice old school body work. Love it. I have two Chevelles I need to do work on. Thank you. 😎
You're welcome - glad you enjoy the old methods. Feel free to ask ?s anytime/any video - Jerry
Thanks! This will really help my 1967 Dodge Charger
This is the best video I've seen for the type of repair I need to make on my truck. Does anyone know how long a job like this will hold up?
It can hold up for a long time if you can coat and seal the back side of the panel (undercoating or thick rustoleum paint. I've done it where I sand blasted the back and spread a layer of bondo back there and it'll hold up forever because no water/salt can get to it. Even if you can get some spray oil back there to slow down the rust. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody how long is a long time? 10 years?
@@brendan1675 It will last forever if you seal the back side and allow the salt water to drain off (not collect) - like sand blast it and hit it with good undercoating. It'll probably start bubbling or showing rust again with in five years if you do not seal the back. To be very honest, it is not the most quality repair, I prefer welding but still trying to seal or prevent rust from the back side.
Another great video! You are amazing and so nice taking the time to make all these great videos for the common folk to repair there own vehicles, a little knowledge and motivation goes a long way! Very nice job and like you said most inportant part is coating the backside whenever possible!
I like how you were honest about the pits at the end. Really nice video, new subscriber today.
Thank's - glad you enjoyed it and thank you for subscribing - have a good week - Jerry
When Bob Ross does body work, just kidding I appreciate your content! Great job man thank you!
Thanks Ro Jo - you're welcome :)
Good job. I was just wondering if you could use fibreglass filler over the fibreglass mesh and then file it down and use the bonds over the filler.
Yes - you can do that. It's actually stronger that way too :)
Thank you for replying. From a 70 retiree who loves his old f150.
If it's over, you can also sand it down to make it smooth.
The Master at work. Nicely done.
Thanks Rob - have a good week :)
Nice video Wish me luck patching a hole in my '88 BMW
Good luck. If you have ?'s along the way just ask - Jerry
Do you have a video that shows all the steps PLUS the sanding grits? Really enjoying your channel!
That's great that you asked that. I just made one but will be uploading it - not this Friday but the next with grit of paper. For now though - this video is a sandpaper guide - th-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/w-d-xo.html This one might be start to finish but it's welding - th-cam.com/video/VBLlA-VAusw/w-d-xo.html Hope they help ❄🎄😊
Thank you very much for the video. I am learning a lot from your videos. I have always wanted to be able to do body work.
You're very welcome. Stick with it and ask questions and you'll be good at it :)
Have you done series o f videos doing body work out side while dealing with temperatures and weather? I have no room in my garage to do any body work. Thank you again for your videos, they are awesome.
I'll work on getting a video out like that Bob. Glad you enjoy the channel my friend :)
For a quick fix this is the way to go...
I've used fiberglass kits from Ames, Kmart, and WalMart for decades to patch up my junk. Works great!
Absolutely - that's all my dad ever used and he worked in all kinds of body shops
@@LakesideAutobody 2nd gen body man... Nice! I learned a lot about cars from older guys when I was young and cherish everything I learned including using lead and solder.
Helped spray a lot of Dupont Centari with a 2000 pack mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket on Saturday mornings...
@@bjr2379 Centari sprayed real nice - flowed out flat, dried hard - great paint and you could afford it back then '80's
I really like your video. Just wondering how much dry time between the fibreglass mat you put down seeing that you layer 3 layers.
No time between layers. You can leave it overnight to harden before filler.
Been watching you for awhile and you make it so simple and easy verse the other channels thanks and keep up the good work 👍
Thanks CT Trucker - have a good weekend :)
You did a wonderful job now I know how to fix the rust hole on my car thanks
Thank you so much. Feel free to ask ?'s anytime. Merry Christmas!
Lakeside Autobody merry Christmas to you too
The only time you do something like this, is when you do not owe money on the car. Don't do anything this guy said, on your car. Just a warning.
What grit did you use on the da sander we always like to know the grits you use its important good video thanks
For DA sanding around your body work, it's very common to start with 120 grit or even old 40 grit on a bondo hog to knock the grinder marks down fast. Then move to 220-240 further out and scuff even further to make sure you don't get primer on shiny paint. This is what body shops use - internet, TV, etc. will probably say finer grit. For speed and production though start with a course grit and move to finer - much faster and less materials being wasted.
Nice repair! I used to do these kind of repairs all the time when I was a teenager (before I had a welder) or for my daily drivers. Sometimes if the hole wasn't too big I would ding in the hole and use Tigerhair strand filler under then regular on top.
Good tip - that works really well too - just gotta make sure the panel can drain and stay dry and your good to go for quite some time :)
Can i use regular bondo on top of the cloth instead of fiber glass bondo?
Yes :)
Putting the fiberglass over bare metal will the metal underneath rust?
How long does a repair like that usually last?
As long as the panel can drain and dry out inside, there's no telling how long it will last. Basically if it stays dry - forever. That being said, I usually get quite a few years out of a decent repair - like over 5 easily - again as long as the panel can drain and stay somewhat dry inside :)
Thank you for making this video!! I always learn something new. Have to fix a few larger holes on my ram 1500 tailgate.
You're welcome Michael - have a good weekend :)
Going to do this repair on my cab corners on my 85 Chevy pickup thanks for the video
You're welcome - make sure you allow for drainage so that the inside can drain and stay dry :)
Hi I'm going to try this on the top of a front fender on a 04 jeep wrangler. Will this last with rocks beating on the under side? How far around the perimeter of the hole do you knock it down? 1/2" or more?
Yes about 1-2"" will work - even more is better. Don't be afraid to go ahead an knock it down good - like 1/4" on average.. That way you have a lot of room to lay your fiberglass in there along with a nice rigid layer of filler :)
Thank you for the videos and real world repairs that people with real determination and only a few tools and minimal supplies can do at home on a nice day outside or in a home garage . I have had great success doing just that for years thanks to exact touchup paints being readily available in a spray can . I recently restored a 2006 5.3 gxp Grand Prix black I repaired rockers and rear quarters using fibreglass and using spray can black acrylic enamel and then clear coat after rubbing down the whole car and energy cured touchup up areas I applied couple coats of quality cleaner wax . The gxp with it original mint Alcoa Oem rims and paint correction that’s better than new car shine get loads of compliments at self serve gas stations from many as there are very few on the road here in southwestern Ontario Canada .
You're welcome. It's great to hear about your projects and repairs. I'll have to check into this car - must be faster than heck! Thanks for the comment and have a good week my friend :)
Is glasfibre a primer? I would before using it.
Fiberglass can be used over bare metal - just like bondo. Prime after you finish your body work - I've never seen anyone in a body shop prime before doing the body work - applying bondo or fiberglass etc.
Nice job! I have done few budget repairs this way and worked out well.
Thanks
I have a small 1inch round rust hole near my gas cap gonna cave and pave it and layer up some fibreglass to fill the hole today hopefully all goes well
Very cool. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Jerry
How did it go?
Hope that was 1 inch around after you removed all the rust. 1 inch rust spot can’t be 8 inches around underneath.
I have went through three auto body schools. This fix is only good if you can get behind it to put a water barrier behind it. Another new product on the market is panel adhesive and a piece of metal over the spot. The issue with that is feathering which 9 times out of 10 the eye will not see if you you are a little high. Cutting the metal out and butt welding is the only way to make good as new.
Hey jerry, great work💯 I’m just wondering what kind of pad is on your air gun towards the end of the video when you were using the gun and the 40 grit sanding block before the primer
Hi Jake - thanks. I think you were seeing the pad on the DA sander. That's just like a stiff black foam pad that all the National Detroit DA sanders came with back in maybe the 80's. It's almost like an interface pad of today. Let me know if this answers your ? :)
What grit of sandpaper to grind down the fiber glass cloth ??
36-40 will take it down quickly otherwise the paper loads up. You can go finer after you get it close :)
I have also used this method. It's not permanent. But will get you by for a year to pass inspection and saves you thousands on body shop repairs.
Yep - I over heard a guy today saying he was going to pay 4000 to get the rust fixed on his rockers (2013 Ford F150) fixed and coated with chip guard.
It would greatly help if you list the items that you used like everyone else. What kind of fiberglass cloth and filler.
Sorry - I do now - under the description. In this video I just used "Bondo" brand fiberglass cloth and resin. If you look under the description of my newer videos you'll see "Tools and Materials" list - Thanks WMD - have a good week :)
Could I use this on a broken ac high pressure vehicle line?? I don't have the money for the part, I wanted to cut the aluminum with pipe cutter then join the 2 back together. Then jb weld tf out of it..
I would go for the JB right from the start if you can. I once had a hole in a egr return pipe (hotter than heck). Ground it clean and JB welded it. It lasted forever - probably still there today. Let me know if you try it and how it holds up - worth a try. See this video for a repair like that (sort of): th-cam.com/video/L2hU1sog4UU/w-d-xo.html (right at the 2 minutes and 37 second mark) Jerry
Got an old car trunk lid that has more holes than not and I warped the hell out of it with the first patch panel so everything else is about to get this here. I think I'm going from the inside to avoid any piling on such a flat surface. I just wonder how heat will affect it and how long it will last. I'm about to find out!
It can withstand the heat of the sun baking the deck lid all day if that is what you are worried about but not any welding near it. Hope that helps :)
I'm planning on buying basalt fiber from Ebay so can whisk the strongest body filler ever. If basalt can reinforce concrete, then why not bondo?
Nice idea - never heard of the stuff but let me know how it goes - I'm interested.
Hey great Info. How do you treat back side of rust hole to prevent future rust through? And when do you treat in filling process. ?
If i sand blast and undercoat (just spray bomb type) the back I do it before or after painting - your choice. If I use old motor oil I always treat the back after paint work - paint doesn't like oil. Check this vid out for rust prevention. It really works well - th-cam.com/video/DqxMHCizkUE/w-d-xo.html
Many years ago when I went to schol for autobody
After you sand down the filler you prime it dry it and you use nitro Stan spot putty sand it when dry and you wet sand with 240 grit sandpaper wet . Prime again paint .the spot putty fills in sanding marks. Do not see it mentioned why?
Most of the times spot putty is used for very minor imperfections. You will be able to remove all of your "sand marks" with primer surfacer :)
Do you have to be down to bare metal or could you put it over areas covered with por15?
I would say down to bare metal - but you could try it and see if it sticks. Can't hurt to try it.
Thank you for your informative videos. I watched this one and another you made, concerning using fiberglass as an alternative to welding. I might mention that I had a problem. I used regular filler after the fiberglass application and the glass at the ends of the patch popped through my primer. I know I used resin to smooth it all but after sanding it down, I had this issue. In your other video, there was a small segment where you mentioned Bondo Glass. I ground off my filler and bought some of this and it seems to be working. All that said, did I do something wrong?
Sorry - I was not able to get to your first post on this for some reason. When you sand your fiberglass, you'll want to make sure the edges are smooth and "feathered" into the metal. Your filler should also feather into the metal. Everything should be smooth when you spray your primer surfacer. Make sure you use "High Build" primer surfacer (Urethane Primer Surfacer or Lacquer Primer Surfacer) as this has thickness which covers up the bodywork imperfections. You will then block sand this and it will be perfect. Here's a video on block sanding: th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this answers you ? - if not ask again - Jerry
You do fine body work. However, I was wondering if you could apply less body filler, as it seems after looking at numerous videos from Lakeside auto body quite a bit of filler is applied and 80- 90% or so of it is then removed. Looks like extra work but you are the expert. Thank you for all the tips and techniques!
When I worked I was on commission so I try to get it in one shot. A lot of guys would wipe a thin layer, sand, spread another layer, sand, etc. I don't mind wasting the filler as it is pretty cheap - 19/gal . You can do it both ways - it's up to the individual. Both ways have the same longevity. Good question William :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! Keep up the great instructional work.
Any suggestions on how to get POR 15 not to dry up in the can? I have used it, love it, but it likes to create a dry layer/gets chunky when opening the can a few days later. Thanks!
Good question. Wonder if keeping it cold would work or vacuum sealing it :)
@@LakesideAutobody I may have to contact the manufacturer. It costs too much to have to use it quickly. Unless…thinning it down.
@@LakesideAutobody I’ll call them. I’ll let you know
@@DaddyyCrab That would help out - thanks :)
@@DaddyyCrab It is expensive for sure :)
Did you add wax to the resin so it's not sticky and you can sand it?
No - never heard of that. Fill me in on that - interesting :)
This should be cheaper than replacing my 300DTs fender. Thank you
You're welcome BU :)
Does it matter which type of fiberglass to use? Is Woven Roving better than Chopped Strain? I'm use to Chopped Strain but if the Woven is better, I'll go that route. Thanks in advance!!🤙🏽🤟🏽
To me it doesn't matter. I think chopped is easier to work with though. Maybe someone has a reason why one is better than the other though. Good question. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody aye.. I appreciate the advice!! Hope u have a great weekend as well
What do you recommend as a sealer for behind the repair to help keep the moisture out and prolong its life?
First allow for drainage - any way you can. That's the most important thing. The panel must be able to dry out inside. Second, if you can get to the back side - sand blast it real quick or at least clean it and use some good 3M or similar undercoating to seal the repair. Last, I swear by this - new or old repaired cars - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
Does it last? Does it hold up?
It will hold up really well if you can undercoat the back side - if not, it depends on a lot of stuff like water, salt, winters etc. But to be totally honest, if you drive it in the winter and salt, I'd say about three years and you'll begin to see some return of rust of bubbling of the paint.
Nice job and it might be less likely to rust again than a metal patch.
Thanks Robert - with proper drainage so that no debris can build up inside the panel, it can last quite a long time. If never driven in the winter, it will last 10+ or more years with ease :)
Nice video wish you would say what # sandpaper you used during the process
For grinding bare metal (40 grit fiber disc) For sanding bondo (always 40 to start then 80 to finish) For blockiing primer (80, 120, or 150) - 80 for real big stuff. For finish sanding primer 220, 320, or 400 wet sand. For color or clear paint sanding before buffing (800-1500) - your choice. That's it - hope that helps - Jerry
It's obviously better to weld steel than using fiberglass, correct? Thank you again fir a great video!
You're welcome. I've had very good luck with fiberglass if I can seal the back or keep it dry by making sure it has drainage. Otherwise yes, welding is the answer along with panel adhesive or even JB weld. See: th-cam.com/video/nbtL75CXmuQ/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/w-d-xo.html Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for replying. I have a nice 69 Firebird but my 15 year old daughter wanted a C10. The bed has some small homes above the wheel well. Perhaps I’ll try the fiberglass if the rust isn’t too bad. She’ll be a new driver so I don’t want the truck to be concourse quality. Just want it to look decent. We can always really restore it down the road if she doesn’t get into an accident. Thanks again for your help. I live in Connecticut. What state is your shop in?
What brand fiberglass cloth/filler do you recommend? I know most people think its a deal sin to use anything with 'bondo' written on it.
Any brand fiberglass cloth will work. Don't listen to the chatter or the internet,TV or magazines about bondo products. They are all fine - the filler, the reinforced filler, red lacquer glazing putty, fiberglass resin, cloth, etc. "bondo" got it's bad name from folks that used the products in the wrong way - applying them incorrectly.
@@LakesideAutobody 100% agree . Many should never touch their cars ever lololol. Especially lazy people body work is hard work and attention to detail bond aka plastic fill epoxy and fibreglass are excellent for repairs providing it’s prepped correctly .
Great video really good job you did I'm kind of learning yet. I've never used fiberglass I am about to experiment with it with my truck because it definitely needs some body work
Thanks - glad you liked it.
Quick question, Jerry . Is smc fiber glass resin. The same as polyester, fiberglass resin.. I am working on a truck semi are accordingly is made out of SMC if you used the polyester fiberglass Resin and creates a reaction, causing the repair to fail. Is this a myth buster? Are they making pay more or it’s true
SMC is a combination of glass-fiber and polyester material molded into panels using a compression process. Fiberglass is glass strands that are woven into cloth and layered using polyester resin. They are close but not exactly the same animal. That being said, I have fixed SMC panels using old fashioned fiberglass and fiberglass resin and it holds up well. Here's an example - th-cam.com/video/d7XJMld4cMY/w-d-xo.html Like anything though, it's always best to go with the correct products and procedures. I like the question and am writing that down. Good topic for a myth buster type video. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes great help thank you Jerry
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 You're welcome. The most common answer I found is, "You can use smc repair on fiberglass but not fiberglass repair on smc." That sounds legit. But...again, I have used fiberglass resin on SMC and it did the job.
@@LakesideAutobody ok cool thanks Jerry. I am sure they had semi trucks before they had this smc resin .
@@LakesideAutobody they say the bondo glass is smc certified. I will sand again and put more to make it stronger. There’s a video out there when the guy rips it off . But there’s no primer on it .
I learned a lot from your video thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful
Thanks much for this tip. We did this on my sons atv but with plastic. We have a weak wheel well thats too thin to weld. This is just the fix! Thanks.
You're welcome. Glad you could use it. Jerry
Love the video what size sanding paper your using on both Sanders and where did you get the cheese grader from
Cheese grater is from Amazon, 40 grit to start with on the filler, 80 grit to finish the filler, 120 grit to DA with or feather edge, scuff with 3M scuff pad any shiny paint you might get primer on and then prime - glad you like the video
Nice video and helpful. This will work well to patch a small spot on my 2000 Wrangler rocker panel before I put the rocker panel guards on. Thanks for going through the steps of using the fiberglass first, then how to apply the body filler.
You're welcome - glad you appreciate it
So do you recommend taking off the fender? What grit paper on the bondo hog and DA? Thanks, Dave
It's not necessary but it could help when trying to undercoat the back. Even w/o undercoating the back it should hold up well as long as you have drain holes or a way that salt water and debris can escape.
Lakeside Autobody, what grit paper are you using on the bondo hog and DA, thanks, Dave!
Hi wont the rust around the place u fibreglassed start again.
In a few years you'll probably have a bit of bubbling if you drive it in salt water. If you coat the backside or allow it to drain and dry by drilling holes in the bottom of the fender, it can last much longer. Remember.... no moisture = no rust.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank You.Much appreciated for the reply
Another awesome video Lakeside. Well done. 😁👍🏻👍🏻 How long could you expect a repair like this to last you think?
Years if there is good drainage so the inside can drain and dry out - free of debris, leaves, needles, etc. Here's a follow up video on same repair - neighbors truck (still fine today) - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Lakeside, do you happen to have a video that covers cutting out a section of a “replacement panel” to fit a section that you have removed, say of course due to rust, & you’re trying to get your replacement piece to fit as “perfectly” as possible before welding it in?? Thanks buddy!!
@@gimmefuel7268 Do you mean no over lapping? If so, the only thing I have on that is this - th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html This may answer a few ?s too - th-cam.com/video/Q3NMsZq09Uc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the information I learned a lot.
You're welcome - thanks for watching :)
What about all the rust on the back side?
What I usually do for welding a patch is cut all the bad metal out. If you could coat the back side with something that would definitely help.
🙄
What does DA sanding do? What grit? Can I do that by hand on one job for me? I have no DA sander?
It basically feather edges the paint - makes a smooth transition from the thickness of the paint to the metal. Yes you can do it by hand. Start with 80 grit and move to 120 then 220 - prime - then paint.
Someone says that fiberglass/metal joint can't last for a long time due to different temperature expansion between materials. How true is that?
Not true at all. I think if the metal was like 10 feet long there may be enough expansion to cause problems but with small distances, you are probably talking about a fraction of a hair which is about .0001" or most likely none at all. Here's proof - The lower passenger fender of this truck was done the exact same way about 2 years ago :)
Has it lasted or did the rust come back and mess it up?
This will not last as long as welded patch panels or panel adhesive - but it is an accepted auto body repair in the industry. Without protection on the back - you'll probably get 2-3 years out of it before seeing the rust start to push the filler away from the metal. However, if you sand blast or sand and seal the back with rubberized undercoating or something similar and allow for drainage, it will last forever really as there's no way for moisture to affect the patched area.
I got rockers going out on my car. After I clean up the rust there will probably be 6” x 3” hole. How would I shape the fiberglass in my case since the hole is much larger than the one in this video?
The easiest way to cover larger areas. Is to use a "form" . By form read anything that can temporarily hold the desired shape until it dry enough to self support.
All is fair game. Metal mesh, aluminum or stainless steel work quite well. So does wax paper, plastic bags, cardboard, duct tape... BTW duct tape is perfect to hold plastic or paper in place. Depending on resin type, material, thickness, hardner, etc. We might be talking about 10 minutes to overnight. So your "form" is a very temporary need. After a single layer of cloth, others can be added later. Bridging a hole can be a minutes thing! ;-)
What do you think about por15 and fiberglass cloth? Softball size hole on my truck was patched with fiberglass and it shrunk and pulled away, I have no idea how they did it though. Thanks!!
Here's how they did it - th-cam.com/video/4LdXFvdzSDs/w-d-xo.html
If you do it like my video, it will last a long time especially if you can seal the back side of it with a really good undercoating - even roof tar. I know that sounds crazy but you want something that doesn't flake off. Something that stays flexible and gooey on the back to seal it off from salt water.
You want to use a rust converter on the back or it will continue to rust and your repair will fall out. Then you can undercoat over the rust converter.
@@peterjlindley On the back of the repair?
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. If it was rusted on the front, it will be rusted behind. Rust converter will convert any of that rust and will stop the rusting process. Even when you grind off rust it is hard to get it all and even a small amount will continue rusting. You could use some POR15 if you can get access to the back of the repaired panel.
@@peterjlindley I know this sounds crazy but In Canada they give the underside of cars oil baths. After some time it gets like an old valve cover and doesn't rust. I personally make sure pinch welds (bottoms of doors, deck lids, hoods etc) are coated with used motor oil. I'm always looking for ideas to coat the back side of repairs - even using roof tar or something that stays gooey but is cheap. Any ideas? Jerry
Can I ask wat is the name of that tool u are using to grand the body filler
The sander for the body filler is a National Detroit Bondo Hog, The bondo shaver tool or cheese grater tool is a Stanley® 21-299A, Surform® 10" Half Round Blade.
Brother this is the best how to video I’ve seen you get a thumbs up from me and a sub. God bless you man keep up the good work.
Thank you so much. God bless you too. I'll do my best to keep the good videos coming - Jerry
Now that's a great comment!
What is black sanded? Thanks
Sorry, should have put a link to what that is. It is using sand paper on a nice flat block to make sure your filler or primer is perfect - "block sanding" Here's a few vids on that:th-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/itEzOW8Knzs/w-d-xo.html
I have more videos on that topic under the auto body tips and techniques playlist. Hope that helps
Thanks for the information I learned alot.
👍😊
Do you find that a fiberglass repair under filler will last any shorter or longer than say welding a new piece of steel in?
Welding does last longer if you don't coat the back with something. If you can seal the back side, it will last forever - really :) Jerry
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO- MUCH APPRECIATED !! PATRICK.P
Thanks - Jerry
Can I use normally bondo body filler over fibreglass cloth like you did here?
Yes 👍
Excellent job. I am going to fix my 91 Toyota Mr2
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the support Hollywood - have a great weekend 👍🏈💯
Where did you get the cloth and resin from
Actually got it from Walmart 🛠✌
@@LakesideAutobody thank you was it in the automotive dept
Yes - by the body filler, etc.@@jimmywarden6320
@@LakesideAutobody thank you very much
👍@@jimmywarden6320
Thanks, very helpful video.
I have 2 holes that were cut into my tractor engine cover (previous owner/previous engine) about 3" x 4" square.
Is there any hole size limitations?
How can the fiberglass cloth be supported from sagging while the resin is setting up?
I think you would be OK - remember boats are made in the same fashion but more layers so for bigger holes use more layers for more strength
@@LakesideAutobody Thank You! Much appreciated!
Get some paint sticks that fit across the span of the rear of the hole, and put magnets on the ends of the sticks. Lay the sticks from behind and perhaps place foil or wax paper between the fiberglass and the wood sticks to keep the resin from bonding to them. I only saw this today, so my apologies for being late!
@@FIGGY65 I use spray foam in a can. Spray the foam in the hole, let dry, sand it down, fiberglass then putty. Beautiful every time and it lasts for years!
You can use cardboard with a sheet of wax paper over it and place the cardboard on the inside of the repair once it’s hard remove the cardboard and wax paper once the repair is completed and paint is cured apply some oil behind the repair and then brush on some asphalt black undercoat working it into the oiled metal and fibreglass so water and dampness and salt can’t soak into repair don’t skip the oiling trust me 50 years experience it works . The Encapsulates only cover rust I don’t use then on old metal , they would be fine on brand new car/truck under wheel wells and frames floors but won’t stop inner frame rust or seam or weld rust
How long does this type of repair last for. I always thought when metal is rotted out like that you had to cut it out so it doesn't continue to rot out, even if it was sand blasted?
If you seal both sides it will last forever (well almost). If you don't seal the back or at least give the water and moisture a way to drain out - you're right it will return. The rate depends on how often it's driven in salt and moisture. If it's a trailer queen it will again last forever :)
I agree .... if it’s a daily driver this will outlast any other spot in the car that is bound to rust trough next ! ...