Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point. Also with my draft control you can definently see it working up and down in small adjustments as I go along. And if i pull the lever back all the way it will actually lift the 3pt all the up. Either way loved the video
Just watched a video today. I was an operator engineer for landscaping company back in the late 60s and 70s while I was going to school. As an engineer, all I was given was a tractor a landscape box blade and a landscapers rake a.k.a. York rake. The intent of the York rake is not to level, but to remove the larger stones and debris from the job site. For leveling, use a landscaping box blade. Landscaping box blade has a cutting blade facing forward and a cutting blade facing backwards. Never use the backward facing cutting blade to cut into soil, for you can damage the equipment. The backward facing cutting blade is actually a float mechanism and a replacement for your cutting blade. The vast majority Of soil movement is accomplished by the landscaper box blade. Setting up the box blade for your tractor is critical. As I mentioned, you have a cutting blade facing forward and a float blade facing backwards. For most applications, such as your field attached the box blade and adjust the top link such that the forward cutting blade and the rear float blade touch the ground at the same time. most people don’t realize that the length of the top link will dictate how aggressively your back bucket will dig into the soil. If you shorten the top link, your back bucket will aggressively dig into the soil and you pull more dirt. If you lengthen the top link, your back bucket will go into float mode. Float mode is for leveling. To operate the back pocket properly, you drive the tractor onto the bump, lower the bucket and drag the dirt to low area. To release the dirt, lift the box up slowly and empty the box in the lower area. The float of the box will compress the soil in packing the soil as you move along. Don’t lift the bucket up and leave a big pile of dirt, lift it up slowly and spread the dirt out as you move along. When all the high spots are moved to low spots, and your area is kind of level you then take your York and remove all the big debris from the site. Go back to your box blade and set it up In float mode. That is lengthen the top link such that the back blade touches the ground before the front blade. Kris Kross the entire area to flat.
Thank You. With this video and your excellent explanation, I am going to try leveling for my shed and parking area again. I wish I could sign up for "tractor leveling class" in the same way a person can sign up for a beginning welding class! What are the "Scare Fires" for and are you assuming they are used in the above example? If so, how deep do I set them relative to the bottom of the Landscape Box Blade?
For leveling, disable the draft control. Just use the height position. Drop it all the way on high areas and lift as going over lower areas. Depending on your eyecrometer, there can be a short learning curve. Use you box scraper. It will move a lot more material faster. Once you get it overall level, keep the box scraper full and just go over in a pattern to smooth it. If you see a low spot lift slightly while going over it.
The big spring is just for preload. It sets the amount of pressure required to be overcome by the draft pressure, so that the draft control doesn't activate at low draft pressure. I have a Mahindra E350-di, and your video helped me understand it better. Previous experience with a 1958 Allis Chalmers CA helped me understand the preload spring and the actuator link.
For a complete beginner like me, this was a fantastic TH-cam from a real tractor person! Thank You! I realize this channel is for real tractor folks with farms and such. I'm not that guy. I have my first tractor (that I love) on just a couple acres at 69 years old and was raised with surf boards, not tractors. So shame me for asking and it will be OK by me. My tractor is a 1953 Ford Jubilee with around 30HP. It has one main lever for "Position Control" or "Draft Control". A small secondary lever under the seat switches the main lever's control between the two. In "Draft Control" position, it appears back-pressure from the implement works on the internal hydraulic control valve via the top link which alters the down force/depth of the implement. Is that how it works? Should I only use "Draft Control" with ground engaging implements that are adjusted for depth? This is all new to me but my Grandfather knew all this stuff! Box Scrapers with "Scare Fires?" make my brain hurt. I watch "Tractor folks" level driveways and even acres with small tractors like mine and I just don't get it. Are they constantly adjusting "Position Control" and reading the terrain or is "draft control" doing it for them? I rented a box scraper and spent a frustrating day trying to make a level spot for a shed and parking area. I failed. So I really want to know how to do this. Any recommendations?
Hi there, So I'll admit I've only been in the tractor world for 7 years now, and even after making this video I've still learned quit a bit about the draft control. I am not familiar with your specific tractor, but here's what I think: 1- I would doubt your tractor has any "down force", most home owner and even ag tractors can only lift a 3 point implement (as far as I know), not push down, you could easily verify this by lowering an implement onto something higher than the ground to see if it starts to lift the tractor or just drops and sits... 2- Draft control does one thing, it lifts the implement when enough draft (read that as drag) is felt.. This has two principal effects, first and foremost; it was developed by Ferguson back when home owner tractors were small, light weight and only two wheel drive, so if a ground engaging implement went from sandy/loose soil to something like clay or rocky soil, the draft control would lift the implement, simultaneously pulling the implement out of whatever it was getting caught on and transfer the weight of the implement the the tractors rear wheels providing more traction. When you're pulling an implement with the lever in the float position, none of the implements weight is held by the tractor, as soon as you lift the implement, that weight transfers to the tractor thus improves traction. Second; after setting depth with the 3pt lift lever, assuming soil conditions remain the same, if there are elevation changes, as the front of the tractor noses up (say driving up out of a slight valley) without draft control, the implement would be allowed to run deeper, with draft control engaged, as the implement starts to dig in, more resistance is felt so the draft control lifts the implement, which helps maintain a consistent depth. Sorry for the long winded response...lol As far as leveling with draft control, anyone who says that's how they did it is full of it, it's just not how the system works. I use my box blade sometimes with but mostly without the scarifiers. If I need to break up my gravel drive or unbroken ground, then scarifiers are down. Box blades are great because they carry and hold media and help fill in holes or low areas, but only if the holes are more narrow than the box its self. In my follow on video about (but not really about) draft control and leveling, I conclude that draft control cannot do this job, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, dragging at different angles and different directions, cutting down high spots and filling low spots. I've leveled out (more like flattened or graded) many a drive and open areas now with my 7' york rake, and is my go to for smaller/narrow areas. If you use a box blade again, pay close attention to the angle of the front cutting edge, when you shorten the top link, the blade will cut more aggressive, lengthen the top link and it won't cut at all. I usually run it with a very slight cutting action, but the rear facing blade can still smooth the media. Again, I usually go straight for the york rake... Hopefully this helps, feel free to post anything, If I can't help, I'm sure another viewer can.. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
The goal of draft control (Harry Ferguson patent from 1926) was designed to keep the plow at a consistent depth, so the hydraulics were designed with a valve which adjusted the depth based upon the resistance (deeper plow results in greater resistance). So the feedback is designed to equalize the resistance with depth adjustments, which is not your need. You need a valve that adds resistance in the high spots and reduces resistance in the low spots. Better yet, use one very long straight blade in the manner of a road grader, which scrapes the high spots and then deposits the scrapings to to the low spots. Having the long blade at a 45 degree angle to the direction of travel will then tend to disperse the scrapings from the high front to the low back of the blade. Watch some good road grader videos and you will see the results.
It amazes me how few people understand draft control. Even many professional farmers don’t use it because they don’t understand what it’s for. To my understanding, it’s not for your leveling application. It was designed for plowing with a mold-board plow primarily. It was designed to keep the tractor moving at a consistent speed by limiting wheel slippage by automatically lifting the plow slightly to keep your tractor moving through tight spots. You’re close on pin and control lever positioning. It’s just not for your application. It has nothing to do with whether the front or rear wheels are raising or lowering.
the amount of pull on the top link determinates the downforce the implement puts on the rear tires, which increases traction. In case of a plow with guide wheel the moment the draft control lifts the implement slightly it shifts the load that used to push on the guide wheel also onto the rear wheel. Nobody really understands draft control because there is a lot going on simultaneous
Thanks to this video of yours I now understand why my three point lift arms have been lifting while I try to attach my backhoe. Very dangerous situation that has damaged several connecting brace links for the attachment. My machine is a Massey Ferguson 2607H. My dealer couldn't explain what was happening. Never buy a three point backhoe. As for leveling ground, I have had little luck using a york rake for leveling ground. Mine will scratch a driveway and move rock and debris but that's about it. I have better luck using a box blade and manually raising and lowering the controls. I have a much better understanding of the draft control after watching this video. Thank you!
Grade with the bucket. Loosen up the material and back drag with a flat bucket. You can actually curl the bucket up and lower the arms all the way and spread material moving forward as well. The closer to flat you get it, the better the flat bucket back drag works to fill lows and pull material from the high spots.
It may take a little time but Ive been a finish operator for almost 30 years and in my teens we used a small box blade tractor for dressing up and final grade on our yards,shoulders of road,swales ect in subdivisions and on cut up finish road corners ect and in my opionion I suggest to leave the draft in a position that lets you move your up and down control to the most its ability if that makes sense because you have to lift or cut to level it up if you cant adjust quick enough you'll continue to cut when you should be filling and vice versa another thing slow the machine down untill you can feel it like you should and can adjust to it and adjust you third arm to the implement cutting edge angle needed for said material
Yeah, I was in the same boat... Seems like I usually am. One of the main reasons I started the channel, I always find myself in a situation where there is very little info on the subject and I have to figure things out the long way around! LOL. Glad to hear it helped and thanks for taking the time to comment/let me know, much appreciated.
I agree. It has nothing to do for leveling. I had just assumed it would but, when you think of the mechanics of how it functions it really points to controlling load on the tractor. Makes me think to try a new way to integrate the draft control in a different way, which would take to long to explain in a post~
Just found your channel, and no experience with draft control so I can't help, but I wanted to say your experimentation and explanation are spot on. Not having previous knowledge of the draft control, and my tractor doesn't have the function - nor do I need it (I think), I have to say I understood everything you were working towards. You could be (and might be) an educator, as you make it easy to follow. Nice job on the video and l look forward to more of your content. Last thought - you are attempting to achieve GPS leveling, as I see on professional construction equipment on my building projects, with less technology and I hope you reach your goal. Good luck and keep trying as the result may help others.
The draft control will not do anything for the brush hog, It ONLY works with ground engaging implements, such as bottom plows etc. You should be just setting the lever full forward and putting the top link pin in the bypass hole.
What is "Float"? My garden tractor (John Deere 317) has lever the manual says in full forward is "Float". After mowing with it for over 50 years, I have no clue what this does. I just set the height of the mower deck for the "grass" and leave it there.
@@steveC2 I respectfully disagree, following the contour of the land would suggest that draft control was lifting/assisting, when in fact it is not, float means no lift assistance/draft control at all. For non ground engaging implements, sure, lower the 3 pt and it will follow the contour of the ground, but for plows and the like, in float they will dig in as deep as they can (as deep as the 3 point is set), and if you run into harder ground or the front of the tractor noses up you might get stuck or bog down the tractor. But for a mower, yes, it will just follow the land.
@@twosawacres8096 In float all hydraulic pressure to the lift is dumped. Ben asked what is float? Sometimes called dump, yes if you use it with a plough etc it will bury itself. Draft is the force transfer from implement to tractor . By the way, when you pointed out the lower link sensing that was a stabiliser not a lift arm ( Ford/ Case engineer for 40+ years)
glad I found ur channel. I will need to watch this 3 times . everybody that has a draft vidja has a different answer. I like your vidja. I got TYM T494 with loader and rimguard 6500 lbs.
Thank you sir for this video!! I have a RK55 and it basically has the exact setup as yours. Even the owners manual is written in the same confusing way. They must be copy/pasting from the same source. Finally a clear explanation!
Once I find the high spots usually turn the rake around and back up to them and cut them down as the tines hit before the tractor does but it’s still aggravating because the high spots are always harder soil than everything else.
The high spots here in South Carolina are hard red Georgia clay. The stick of rail sounds like a good idea. If you could get the foot of the rail dragging the dirt seems like it would cut the dirt good.
@@billloffler8637 exactly what I did... welded some eye bolts to the sides, chained it up, usually pulling at an angle. Really helped pull high to low and just generally level/ flatten.
To level your yard the best thing to use is a leveling bar (funny that). The longer the better. a hunk of railway iron about 6 times longer than your rake. It bites into the high spots and drops material into the low spots.
Yes, I recently watched one of the original massey ferguson system videos, and your point was one of their main reasons for the system. The older lighter rwd tractors didn't have the weight or traction to pull many ground engaging implements, draft control would lift the implement slightly "hanging" the implement weight on the tractor, increasing traction and decreasing drag.
What you really need is a self adjusting draft control lever that changes its position depending on the level of the ground. The draft control lever should then automatically be in the high position (less depth) on the the low parts of the field and conversely on the low position (more depth) on the high parts of the field so as to dig deeper on the high parts to gather more soil and then dump it in to the low part of the field with less soil. You have two choices, do it manually by dropping and lifting the implement using position lever depending on which part of the field you are at or hire another implement like automatic laser leveller that you attach to the tractor and it does that for you.
Here the problem im running in to. Im trying to use a subsoiler or ripper and when i get the depth i want to rip the dang draft control keeps lifting my arms till im only 10inches deep. My mahindra 6075 dont have a pin to lock the draft sensing bracket from moving. Wish it did. So enless im missing something in setting the draft control its usless for me to try ripping
@@ClearwaterAngus I downloaded the 6075 manual and gave it a look. I see only two top link pin holes, both are for draft control... my suggestion (if you have not tried it yet), just make sure the draft control lever is all the way forward, make sure the stop set screw is not preventing the lever from full travel forward. This should disable the draft control.
@twosawacres8096 that's what I thought too. But it didn't disable it. In the rear top link has 2 holes. My understanding for plowing and ripping you use the bottom hole for more force.
@@ClearwaterAngus yeah, that's what I read, top hole for lighter (more sensitive) work, bottom for heavier stuff. I wonder if there is some way to fab something up to stop the top link from engaging the pressure plate?
I actually think you explained it better than anyone else. I understood what you’re saying. I use a heavy metal to level out areas I need to level. So now I get what my draft controller actually does. 😂 Thanks for the info.
That is made for breaking plows on case you hit stump or of it goes to deep it keeps.it level in ground so you don't wear yourself out with depth control
As I understand it draft control was added to tractors to prevent tractors from flipping over and killing operators when a large rock was hit by a moldboard plow. They noticed that the plow worked better if the tractor adjusted the depth on its own faster than the operator could react to changing field conditions
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Glad it helped, I've been playing with it for a few years now wondering why it didn't do anything to help grade my drive, now I know it just doesn't work that way or for that purpose.
It helps to think about what tractors were developed for, farming. Later on we started using tractors for construction and general utility work. We developed implements for tractors that could do many things that weren't required for farming. Leveling ground is not required for farming. You understand what the draft control does, and based on the many comments, you should now understand that draft control is unlikely to help you with leveling your ground.
pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 TH-cam channels I trust & turn to for answers.
I'll have to check them out, I honesty don't remember which channels I watched while learning about this stuff myself I may have seen them already. But thank you.
Really enjoyed your scientific process, and conclusions. It seems draft control is more about protecting the drive train, and less about leveling a grade. I’ve been in construction management for quite some time, and watched many earthwork companies create a flat grade. Many times they would use a laser grade control system. AKA Rotary Laser Level. They would set up a rotary laser emitter (transom) on a tripod, then determine their “zero” elevation. This emitter is self-leveling, and projects a beam on a horizontal plane, 360º. They then would have a laser detector (eye) attached to their implement. This eye can have an elevation detection range of +/- 12”. They then adjust the height of the eye’s center to the laser beam, so the implement’s cutting edge is set at “zero” elevation. Some tractors and laser systems allow the detector to be plugged directly into the tractor’s control system, where it automatically raises and lowers the implement to keep the blade at zero. All the operator has to do is not run into stuff, and keep the detector in sight of the emitter. Other laser systems may have a remote display that is mounted in the operator’s sight, that indicates the elevation of the eye in relation to the emitter. The operator then has to raise and lower the cutting edge manually. So, this lessens the effect of the tractor rolling in and out of bowls, and helps keep the implement elevation at zero. Another, more old school, method is to use the laser transom with a grade rod. They attach a laser detector to the grade rod, at a height where the bottom of the rod represents zero grade. They then go around the high spots and dig a small hole, whose bottom is at zero. They then pound in a wooden stake (usually with a brightly colored “feather” attached for visibility), until it is flush with the bottom of the hole. Rinse and repeat as needed. They then cut the high spots, and fill in the low spots until they have the desired flat grade. The remote display may not even be necessary if you learn and listen to the tones the eye puts out. One tone means the eye is high, another means it’s low. And a solid tone means it’s right on. These laser level sets can be found at Home Depot for around $500. I was fortunate enough to find decent DeWalt unit at an auction for $150. I find this tool to be invaluable for grading, or building a large structure that has to be level. Hopefully this helps someone that is struggling with creating a flat grade with a tractor. I found I just don’t have the skills nor touch to do it by eye and feel, with a box blade.
@@SomeBody-g1q Thank you for the input. For my barn, 50x60 footprint, I used my pops old school transit. For the woodyard (this video), I really didn't need it level, just somewhat flat, and maybe graded a little in one direction for water runoff. I do have a laser level, but not the transit kind with the tones and such, and I've found the red laser is basically useless in daylight. I've since learned more about draft control, and now really get it. Flattening, leveling and grading is a different animal. I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, pulling it at different angles, worked great for my purposes.
@@twosawacres8096 Nice! I saw that vid with steel rail. Very clever! I’ll definitely keep that technique in mind. Oh yeah, transit…not transom. DOH! Yeah, those laser level units that project a (supposedly) visible red/green beams are indeed useless in the daylight. If you ever come across a good deal on one of those rotary laser levels w/ a detector, grab it. The detector works even in the brightest sunlight, typically out to 1200’ from the emitter.
You could probably level your lot more quickly if you just drug around something like a long heavy I-bean or a section of train rail. The longer the better. The weight will cause it to cut off the high spots and the length will promote the dirt being dumped in the low spots. Working up the surface soil some will allow you to accomplish this more quickly. This can also be done with a wheel disk with a long drag pole strung out way behind it.
it was part of the ferqson sistion 4 plowing when tractor back wheels hit a hole hiybrolic lifted when back wheels hit hight hybrolic lowerd front wheels seem but other way around
Your video should be on disc and included in the manual, best explanation I've seen. My tractor came with down pressure and float. All my ground engaging implements have a an adjustable bogie wheel or bogie wheels. I leave a dedicated top link on all my implements, no more top link adjustments. My grading blade has twin tandem swivel gauge wheels, ex.-when gauge wheel falls in say 4" divet blade drops half 2", next time wheel drops 2" but blade now drops 1" and so forth
It was so frustrating watching other videos on the topic, seemed each opposed the others... Figured i'd nail it down. I just mentioned to someone else on here this morning that I'm probably going to make a set of gauge wheels for my york rake, should be fun, I'll make a video of it. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control. After Ferguson’s Patent expired, most all of the Tractor Manufacturers , including Deere, Quickly used the system. Fergieman
the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots . It is to help not to stail the tractor motor by raising implement on hard spot nothing more.
Ive come from a background in earthmoving, where I found most machines can do a lot of things. It seems like with ag tractors every job you do, you need an implement that you dont have. I foresee a long go line and an empty pocket.
@@RickeyMathis-uq6lo it's just not precise enough, the loader should be fixed at the same angle as the rear axle, and my loader is twisted just a bit as well (very frustrating). I've been looking for a 6 way back blade, but they are very pricey, and I'd have to add 2 more remote hyd valves to the rear... I got it done though, the next video I use a 20' chunk of railroad to level everything out, worked a treat!
Draft control makes the implement terrain following. Not really what you want for levelling. Imagine wanting to keep a plough running 6” deep on undulating ground, the closed loop load sensing on the top link lifts and lowers the plough to maintain the depth rather than it going deeper as the tractor climbs out of a valley or lifting out of the ground as the tractor crests a hill if you are using positional control.
I agree but with a slight caveat, terrain following to the extent that the load sensed is the same. That load (or drag) sensed can change by way of the tractor changing angle like your example or if the ground consistency changes (think plowing through sand/soil then you hit rocks or clay), than the load/drag increases causing the system to lift the implement to maintain the same drag initially set. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to watch.
@@twosawacres8096 yes the load increasing or decreasing at the top link adjusts the depth of the lower link. On my Grey Ferguson there is only draft control, no positional control. This means you cannot use a rotary cutter as you would on a more modern tractor. You need a fixed link to the top link, no chain or swing link. You need the wheel at the back to impart force to get the draft control to lift and lower the linkage to follow the terrain.
If you think thats complicated have a look at a David Brown 900 series valve chest that controls the draft lifting extra. It works via a cable from the top of the top link same as the rods on the tractor here. M😀. Path of discovery on youtube has good vids on it.
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've come to your exact conclusions. I made a second video "leveling" the woodyard, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad. Turns were a bit tight, and since it doesn't really have cutting edges it went a bit slower than I hoped, but it worked. For the driveway I usually just use the York rake, if I have to really take it down or move a bit more material I'll hook up the box blade. I'd like a land level, someday hopefully.
Your pulling mostly horizontally, almost parallel to the bottom pivot, but well below it, of corse its going to tip up.... thats not anywhere close to replicating a downward force...since your pulling below the pivot i think any force at less than 90 deg (straight down) will make the top move towards the tractor..
Draft control is nothing but a relief valve. All it is supposed to do is keep the tool running at the pre set level. When the front wheels go up the relief valve opens and lets the lift arms raise. When the back wheels go up the relief valve opens and lets the lift arms drop to keep the tool at its pre set position. Most draft levers are marked lite to heavy lite be very sensitive and heavy not sensitive. To level your lot blade it on 45 degree angles all the way across not in circles. About half the width of the rake on each pass.
I think that with your brain you could probably figure out how to get the astronauts home from the space station. Give NASA a call. Very impressive. If I watch this video a few times even I may understand my draft control. Thanks! Very impressive
Good video ! Even earlier MF booklets are not very thorough on that subject, either. You might find this video interesting th-cam.com/video/jJGAAhFztTw/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyCuIPl6AP9GXEkVzF4AaABAg One advantageous use of the draft control in situations other than with soil engaging implements is when you are merely driving with any implement attached : by pushing the draft control lever down (or forward, if this is clearer) very slightly, you will find a position in which the draft control acts as a suspension. When driving over a bump or a pothole, the sudden weight difference exerted by the load on the top link will trigger the hydraulic system, some oil will be released (or, conversely, pumped in) so as to keep the load quite level. Hence less mechanical stress and an easier, smoother drive.
Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
Those are my conclusions in sum, thanks for the input.
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point.
Also with my draft control you can definently see it working up and down in small adjustments as I go along. And if i pull the lever back all the way it will actually lift the 3pt all the up.
Either way loved the video
Thanks for the feedback, I've found just letting the rake ride, (especially at an angle) works really well for the drive.
Just watched a video today.
I was an operator engineer for landscaping company back in the late 60s and 70s while I was going to school. As an engineer, all I was given was a tractor a landscape box blade and a landscapers rake a.k.a. York rake.
The intent of the York rake is not to level, but to remove the larger stones and debris from the job site. For leveling, use a landscaping box blade. Landscaping box blade has a cutting blade facing forward and a cutting blade facing backwards. Never use the backward facing cutting blade to cut into soil, for you can damage the equipment. The backward facing cutting blade is actually a float mechanism and a replacement for your cutting blade.
The vast majority Of soil movement is accomplished by the landscaper box blade. Setting up the box blade for your tractor is critical. As I mentioned, you have a cutting blade facing forward and a float blade facing backwards. For most applications, such as your field attached the box blade and adjust the top link such that the forward cutting blade and the rear float blade touch the ground at the same time. most people don’t realize that the length of the top link will dictate how aggressively your back bucket will dig into the soil.
If you shorten the top link, your back bucket will aggressively dig into the soil and you pull more dirt.
If you lengthen the top link, your back bucket will go into float mode. Float mode is for leveling.
To operate the back pocket properly, you drive the tractor onto the bump, lower the bucket and drag the dirt to low area. To release the dirt, lift the box up slowly and empty the box in the lower area. The float of the box will compress the soil in packing the soil as you move along. Don’t lift the bucket up and leave a big pile of dirt, lift it up slowly and spread the dirt out as you move along.
When all the high spots are moved to low spots, and your area is kind of level you then take your York and remove all the big debris from the site.
Go back to your box blade and set it up In float mode. That is lengthen the top link such that the back blade touches the ground before the front blade.
Kris Kross the entire area to flat.
Thank You. With this video and your excellent explanation, I am going to try leveling for my shed and parking area again. I wish I could sign up for "tractor leveling class" in the same way a person can sign up for a beginning welding class! What are the "Scare Fires" for and are you assuming they are used in the above example? If so, how deep do I set them relative to the bottom of the Landscape Box Blade?
For leveling, disable the draft control. Just use the height position. Drop it all the way on high areas and lift as going over lower areas. Depending on your eyecrometer, there can be a short learning curve. Use you box scraper. It will move a lot more material faster. Once you get it overall level, keep the box scraper full and just go over in a pattern to smooth it. If you see a low spot lift slightly while going over it.
The big spring is just for preload. It sets the amount of pressure required to be overcome by the draft pressure, so that the draft control doesn't activate at low draft pressure. I have a Mahindra E350-di, and your video helped me understand it better. Previous experience with a 1958 Allis Chalmers CA helped me understand the preload spring and the actuator link.
For a complete beginner like me, this was a fantastic TH-cam from a real tractor person! Thank You!
I realize this channel is for real tractor folks with farms and such. I'm not that guy. I have my first tractor (that I love) on just a couple acres at 69 years old and was raised with surf boards, not tractors. So shame me for asking and it will be OK by me.
My tractor is a 1953 Ford Jubilee with around 30HP. It has one main lever for "Position Control" or "Draft Control". A small secondary lever under the seat switches the main lever's control between the two. In "Draft Control" position, it appears back-pressure from the implement works on the internal hydraulic control valve via the top link which alters the down force/depth of the implement. Is that how it works? Should I only use "Draft Control" with ground engaging implements that are adjusted for depth? This is all new to me but my Grandfather knew all this stuff!
Box Scrapers with "Scare Fires?" make my brain hurt. I watch "Tractor folks" level driveways and even acres with small tractors like mine and I just don't get it. Are they constantly adjusting "Position Control" and reading the terrain or is "draft control" doing it for them? I rented a box scraper and spent a frustrating day trying to make a level spot for a shed and parking area. I failed. So I really want to know how to do this. Any recommendations?
Hi there, So I'll admit I've only been in the tractor world for 7 years now, and even after making this video I've still learned quit a bit about the draft control. I am not familiar with your specific tractor, but here's what I think: 1- I would doubt your tractor has any "down force", most home owner and even ag tractors can only lift a 3 point implement (as far as I know), not push down, you could easily verify this by lowering an implement onto something higher than the ground to see if it starts to lift the tractor or just drops and sits... 2- Draft control does one thing, it lifts the implement when enough draft (read that as drag) is felt.. This has two principal effects, first and foremost; it was developed by Ferguson back when home owner tractors were small, light weight and only two wheel drive, so if a ground engaging implement went from sandy/loose soil to something like clay or rocky soil, the draft control would lift the implement, simultaneously pulling the implement out of whatever it was getting caught on and transfer the weight of the implement the the tractors rear wheels providing more traction. When you're pulling an implement with the lever in the float position, none of the implements weight is held by the tractor, as soon as you lift the implement, that weight transfers to the tractor thus improves traction. Second; after setting depth with the 3pt lift lever, assuming soil conditions remain the same, if there are elevation changes, as the front of the tractor noses up (say driving up out of a slight valley) without draft control, the implement would be allowed to run deeper, with draft control engaged, as the implement starts to dig in, more resistance is felt so the draft control lifts the implement, which helps maintain a consistent depth.
Sorry for the long winded response...lol As far as leveling with draft control, anyone who says that's how they did it is full of it, it's just not how the system works. I use my box blade sometimes with but mostly without the scarifiers. If I need to break up my gravel drive or unbroken ground, then scarifiers are down. Box blades are great because they carry and hold media and help fill in holes or low areas, but only if the holes are more narrow than the box its self. In my follow on video about (but not really about) draft control and leveling, I conclude that draft control cannot do this job, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, dragging at different angles and different directions, cutting down high spots and filling low spots. I've leveled out (more like flattened or graded) many a drive and open areas now with my 7' york rake, and is my go to for smaller/narrow areas. If you use a box blade again, pay close attention to the angle of the front cutting edge, when you shorten the top link, the blade will cut more aggressive, lengthen the top link and it won't cut at all. I usually run it with a very slight cutting action, but the rear facing blade can still smooth the media. Again, I usually go straight for the york rake...
Hopefully this helps, feel free to post anything, If I can't help, I'm sure another viewer can..
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@twosawacres8096 Thank you!
The goal of draft control (Harry Ferguson patent from 1926) was designed to keep the plow at a consistent depth, so the hydraulics were designed with a valve which adjusted the depth based upon the resistance (deeper plow results in greater resistance). So the feedback is designed to equalize the resistance with depth adjustments, which is not your need. You need a valve that adds resistance in the high spots and reduces resistance in the low spots. Better yet, use one very long straight blade in the manner of a road grader, which scrapes the high spots and then deposits the scrapings to to the low spots. Having the long blade at a 45 degree angle to the direction of travel will then tend to disperse the scrapings from the high front to the low back of the blade. Watch some good road grader videos and you will see the results.
@@surfingcuriositywaves4046 exactly, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad pulling at an angle, worked a treat!
It amazes me how few people understand draft control. Even many professional farmers don’t use it because they don’t understand what it’s for. To my understanding, it’s not for your leveling application. It was designed for plowing with a mold-board plow primarily. It was designed to keep the tractor moving at a consistent speed by limiting wheel slippage by automatically lifting the plow slightly to keep your tractor moving through tight spots. You’re close on pin and control lever positioning. It’s just not for your application. It has nothing to do with whether the front or rear wheels are raising or lowering.
Exactly!!! That rake just doesn't put enough pull on the tractor to make draft control even work!
@@00nuttAnd if it hit a hard spot it would lift to clear it, not cut it down and smooth it out.
@@court2379 Spot on, my points exactly in the video.
the amount of pull on the top link determinates the downforce the implement puts on the rear tires, which increases traction. In case of a plow with guide wheel the moment the draft control lifts the implement slightly it shifts the load that used to push on the guide wheel also onto the rear wheel. Nobody really understands draft control because there is a lot going on simultaneous
Mine on my massey 202 works great for grading my gravel road.
Thanks to this video of yours I now understand why my three point lift arms have been lifting while I try to attach my backhoe. Very dangerous situation that has damaged several connecting brace links for the attachment. My machine is a Massey Ferguson 2607H. My dealer couldn't explain what was happening. Never buy a three point backhoe. As for leveling ground, I have had little luck using a york rake for leveling ground. Mine will scratch a driveway and move rock and debris but that's about it. I have better luck using a box blade and manually raising and lowering the controls. I have a much better understanding of the draft control after watching this video. Thank you!
Grade with the bucket. Loosen up the material and back drag with a flat bucket. You can actually curl the bucket up and lower the arms all the way and spread material moving forward as well. The closer to flat you get it, the better the flat bucket back drag works to fill lows and pull material from the high spots.
The Ferg
4:44: yes those pivot are fixed, the third piot only is moving.
You just look at an old massey doc, it's all explained clearly.
Forgot to add below. Just drag it arond with a chain fixed to 2 points on the bar and go in lots of different dirctions and angels around the yard.
It may take a little time but Ive been a finish operator for almost 30 years and in my teens we used a small box blade tractor for dressing up and final grade on our yards,shoulders of road,swales ect in subdivisions and on cut up finish road corners ect and in my opionion I suggest to leave the draft in a position that lets you move your up and down control to the most its ability if that makes sense because you have to lift or cut to level it up if you cant adjust quick enough you'll continue to cut when you should be filling and vice versa another thing slow the machine down untill you can feel it like you should and can adjust to it and adjust you third arm to the implement cutting edge angle needed for said material
Man, FINALLY a video on draft control for a Mahindra! Thanks so much for making this, I have been struggling with this and your video helped a LOT!!
Yeah, I was in the same boat... Seems like I usually am. One of the main reasons I started the channel, I always find myself in a situation where there is very little info on the subject and I have to figure things out the long way around! LOL. Glad to hear it helped and thanks for taking the time to comment/let me know, much appreciated.
I agree. It has nothing to do for leveling. I had just assumed it would but, when you think of the mechanics of how it functions it really points to controlling load on the tractor. Makes me think to try a new way to integrate the draft control in a different way, which would take to long to explain in a post~
Just found your channel, and no experience with draft control so I can't help, but I wanted to say your experimentation and explanation are spot on.
Not having previous knowledge of the draft control, and my tractor doesn't have the function - nor do I need it (I think), I have to say I understood everything you were working towards. You could be (and might be) an educator, as you make it easy to follow. Nice job on the video and l look forward to more of your content.
Last thought - you are attempting to achieve GPS leveling, as I see on professional construction equipment on my building projects, with less technology and I hope you reach your goal. Good luck and keep trying as the result may help others.
A land plane will help you considerably flattening out your lot, and it's very easy to use.
I got that same tractor except all i do is mowing with the brush hog. Trying to figure out which setting to set that draft at.
The draft control will not do anything for the brush hog, It ONLY works with ground engaging implements, such as bottom plows etc. You should be just setting the lever full forward and putting the top link pin in the bypass hole.
What is "Float"? My garden tractor (John Deere 317) has lever the manual says in full forward is "Float". After mowing with it for over 50 years, I have no clue what this does. I just set the height of the mower deck for the "grass" and leave it there.
Float just means that draft control is disabled.
In float the lift follows the contour of the ground
@@steveC2 Thank you Steve
@@steveC2 I respectfully disagree, following the contour of the land would suggest that draft control was lifting/assisting, when in fact it is not, float means no lift assistance/draft control at all. For non ground engaging implements, sure, lower the 3 pt and it will follow the contour of the ground, but for plows and the like, in float they will dig in as deep as they can (as deep as the 3 point is set), and if you run into harder ground or the front of the tractor noses up you might get stuck or bog down the tractor. But for a mower, yes, it will just follow the land.
@@twosawacres8096 In float all hydraulic pressure to the lift is dumped. Ben asked what is float? Sometimes called dump, yes if you use it with a plough etc it will bury itself. Draft is the force transfer from implement to tractor . By the way, when you pointed out the lower link sensing that was a stabiliser not a lift arm ( Ford/ Case engineer for 40+ years)
glad I found ur channel. I will need to watch this 3 times . everybody that has a draft vidja has a different answer. I like your vidja. I got TYM T494 with loader and rimguard 6500 lbs.
Thank you sir for this video!! I have a RK55 and it basically has the exact setup as yours. Even the owners manual is written in the same confusing way. They must be copy/pasting from the same source.
Finally a clear explanation!
@@dgiturbo3247 glad it helped, I was dumbfounded at first!
Once I find the high spots usually turn the rake around and back up to them and cut them down as the tines hit before the tractor does but it’s still aggravating because the high spots are always harder soil than everything else.
@@billloffler8637 done that before, wish it wasn't such a pain to flip the rake around. In the next video I just used a 20' piece of railroad...
The high spots here in South Carolina are hard red Georgia clay. The stick of rail sounds like a good idea. If you could get the foot of the rail dragging the dirt seems like it would cut the dirt good.
@@billloffler8637 exactly what I did... welded some eye bolts to the sides, chained it up, usually pulling at an angle. Really helped pull high to low and just generally level/ flatten.
To level your yard the best thing to use is a leveling bar (funny that). The longer the better. a hunk of railway iron about 6 times longer than your rake. It bites into the high spots and drops material into the low spots.
@@broughxtreme that is exactly what I ended up doing, 20' chunk of railroad did the trick!
The draft also transfers the weight to make for more traction on the rear tires.
Yes, I recently watched one of the original massey ferguson system videos, and your point was one of their main reasons for the system. The older lighter rwd tractors didn't have the weight or traction to pull many ground engaging implements, draft control would lift the implement slightly "hanging" the implement weight on the tractor, increasing traction and decreasing drag.
What you really need is a self adjusting draft control lever that changes its position depending on the level of the ground. The draft control lever should then automatically be in the high position (less depth) on the the low parts of the field and conversely on the low position (more depth) on the high parts of the field so as to dig deeper on the high parts to gather more soil and then dump it in to the low part of the field with less soil. You have two choices, do it manually by dropping and lifting the implement using position lever depending on which part of the field you are at or hire another implement like automatic laser leveller that you attach to the tractor and it does that for you.
Here the problem im running in to. Im trying to use a subsoiler or ripper and when i get the depth i want to rip the dang draft control keeps lifting my arms till im only 10inches deep. My mahindra 6075 dont have a pin to lock the draft sensing bracket from moving. Wish it did. So enless im missing something in setting the draft control its usless for me to try ripping
@@ClearwaterAngus I downloaded the 6075 manual and gave it a look. I see only two top link pin holes, both are for draft control... my suggestion (if you have not tried it yet), just make sure the draft control lever is all the way forward, make sure the stop set screw is not preventing the lever from full travel forward. This should disable the draft control.
@twosawacres8096 that's what I thought too. But it didn't disable it. In the rear top link has 2 holes. My understanding for plowing and ripping you use the bottom hole for more force.
@@ClearwaterAngus yeah, that's what I read, top hole for lighter (more sensitive) work, bottom for heavier stuff. I wonder if there is some way to fab something up to stop the top link from engaging the pressure plate?
I actually think you explained it better than anyone else. I understood what you’re saying. I use a heavy metal to level out areas I need to level. So now I get what my draft controller actually does. 😂 Thanks for the info.
Glad it helped, I was so confused at first, and youtube had differing explanations...
you got hydrolic flow control knob under the seat that controls speed of arm movement
That is made for breaking plows on case you hit stump or of it goes to deep it keeps.it level in ground so you don't wear yourself out with depth control
Some times your equipment can be too light we some times put sleepers on for weight to make the draft control to work
As I understand it draft control was added to tractors to prevent tractors from flipping over and killing operators when a large rock was hit by a moldboard plow. They noticed that the plow worked better if the tractor adjusted the depth on its own faster than the operator could react to changing field conditions
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Glad it helped, I've been playing with it for a few years now wondering why it didn't do anything to help grade my drive, now I know it just doesn't work that way or for that purpose.
It helps to think about what tractors were developed for, farming. Later on we started using tractors for construction and general utility work. We developed implements for tractors that could do many things that weren't required for farming. Leveling ground is not required for farming. You understand what the draft control does, and based on the many comments, you should now understand that draft control is unlikely to help you with leveling your ground.
Sure do, ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, flattened out beautifully. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 TH-cam channels I trust & turn to for answers.
I'll have to check them out, I honesty don't remember which channels I watched while learning about this stuff myself I may have seen them already. But thank you.
Really enjoyed your scientific process, and conclusions.
It seems draft control is more about protecting the drive train, and less about leveling a grade.
I’ve been in construction management for quite some time, and watched many earthwork companies create a flat grade. Many times they would use a laser grade control system. AKA Rotary Laser Level.
They would set up a rotary laser emitter (transom) on a tripod, then determine their “zero” elevation. This emitter is self-leveling, and projects a beam on a horizontal plane, 360º.
They then would have a laser detector (eye) attached to their implement. This eye can have an elevation detection range of +/- 12”. They then adjust the height of the eye’s center to the laser beam, so the implement’s cutting edge is set at “zero” elevation.
Some tractors and laser systems allow the detector to be plugged directly into the tractor’s control system, where it automatically raises and lowers the implement to keep the blade at zero. All the operator has to do is not run into stuff, and keep the detector in sight of the emitter.
Other laser systems may have a remote display that is mounted in the operator’s sight, that indicates the elevation of the eye in relation to the emitter. The operator then has to raise and lower the cutting edge manually.
So, this lessens the effect of the tractor rolling in and out of bowls, and helps keep the implement elevation at zero.
Another, more old school, method is to use the laser transom with a grade rod.
They attach a laser detector to the grade rod, at a height where the bottom of the rod represents zero grade.
They then go around the high spots and dig a small hole, whose bottom is at zero. They then pound in a wooden stake (usually with a brightly colored “feather” attached for visibility), until it is flush with the bottom of the hole. Rinse and repeat as needed.
They then cut the high spots, and fill in the low spots until they have the desired flat grade.
The remote display may not even be necessary if you learn and listen to the tones the eye puts out.
One tone means the eye is high, another means it’s low. And a solid tone means it’s right on.
These laser level sets can be found at Home Depot for around $500.
I was fortunate enough to find decent DeWalt unit at an auction for $150. I find this tool to be invaluable for grading, or building a large structure that has to be level.
Hopefully this helps someone that is struggling with creating a flat grade with a tractor.
I found I just don’t have the skills nor touch to do it by eye and feel, with a box blade.
@@SomeBody-g1q Thank you for the input. For my barn, 50x60 footprint, I used my pops old school transit. For the woodyard (this video), I really didn't need it level, just somewhat flat, and maybe graded a little in one direction for water runoff. I do have a laser level, but not the transit kind with the tones and such, and I've found the red laser is basically useless in daylight. I've since learned more about draft control, and now really get it. Flattening, leveling and grading is a different animal. I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, pulling it at different angles, worked great for my purposes.
@@twosawacres8096 Nice! I saw that vid with steel rail. Very clever! I’ll definitely keep that technique in mind.
Oh yeah, transit…not transom. DOH!
Yeah, those laser level units that project a (supposedly) visible red/green beams are indeed useless in the daylight.
If you ever come across a good deal on one of those rotary laser levels w/ a detector, grab it. The detector works even in the brightest sunlight, typically out to 1200’ from the emitter.
You could probably level your lot more quickly if you just drug around something like a long heavy I-bean or a section of train rail. The longer the better. The weight will cause it to cut off the high spots and the length will promote the dirt being dumped in the low spots. Working up the surface soil some will allow you to accomplish this more quickly. This can also be done with a wheel disk with a long drag pole strung out way behind it.
That's exactly what I ended up doing, in the next video, I used a 20' chunk of railroad.
it was part of the ferqson sistion 4 plowing when tractor back wheels hit a hole hiybrolic lifted when back wheels hit hight hybrolic lowerd front wheels seem but other way around
Your video should be on disc and included in the manual, best explanation I've seen. My tractor came with down pressure and float. All my ground engaging implements have a an adjustable bogie wheel or bogie wheels. I leave a dedicated top link on all my implements, no more top link adjustments. My grading blade has twin tandem swivel gauge wheels, ex.-when gauge wheel falls in say 4" divet blade drops half 2", next time wheel drops 2" but blade now drops 1" and so forth
It was so frustrating watching other videos on the topic, seemed each opposed the others... Figured i'd nail it down. I just mentioned to someone else on here this morning that I'm probably going to make a set of gauge wheels for my york rake, should be fun, I'll make a video of it. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control.
After Ferguson’s Patent expired, most all of the Tractor Manufacturers , including Deere, Quickly used the system.
Fergieman
Great Video!! Keep up the good videos.
Thanks, got any suggestions feel free to share...
the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots . It is to help not to stail the tractor motor by raising implement on hard spot nothing more.
Ive been scratching my head on this for weeks. Thanks for the vid.
Ive come from a background in earthmoving, where I found most machines can do a lot of things. It seems like with ag tractors every job you do, you need an implement that you dont have. I foresee a long go line and an empty pocket.
@@J..O..D and ag stuff is priced like marine stuff...lol
When you get draft control working right on a plow, it's amazing. Pretty sure it was invented early 1900.
Best explanation of draft i've seen anywhere. Great video and great demo and explanation.
@@rickbaker4407 thank you.
Hands down the best tutorial video on how draft control works! The demo, icing on the cake!
@@markgilles-ih8go thanks
Awesome explanation
Thanks
Why dont you just use your bucket on the front end & scrape down the high spots & fill in the low spots?
@@RickeyMathis-uq6lo it's just not precise enough, the loader should be fixed at the same angle as the rear axle, and my loader is twisted just a bit as well (very frustrating). I've been looking for a 6 way back blade, but they are very pricey, and I'd have to add 2 more remote hyd valves to the rear... I got it done though, the next video I use a 20' chunk of railroad to level everything out, worked a treat!
Higher horsepower tractors have Lower Link Sensing, it is a sensor on the bottom of the lower link arms, not the sway bars as you said.
Hi there, I thought that's what I said, sorry. My understanding is just what you described.
Great video. I learned a bunch.
@@gilbertjaramillo8735 thanks, was confused myself, had to take myself to school.
I've found it to be a useless feature for my box blade. Maybe if you were plowing fields it does something.
@@criticalevent same here!
9:36 - "acting as if you 'catched' something"...? CAUGHT !!!
Draft control makes the implement terrain following. Not really what you want for levelling.
Imagine wanting to keep a plough running 6” deep on undulating ground, the closed loop load sensing on the top link lifts and lowers the plough to maintain the depth rather than it going deeper as the tractor climbs out of a valley or lifting out of the ground as the tractor crests a hill if you are using positional control.
I agree but with a slight caveat, terrain following to the extent that the load sensed is the same. That load (or drag) sensed can change by way of the tractor changing angle like your example or if the ground consistency changes (think plowing through sand/soil then you hit rocks or clay), than the load/drag increases causing the system to lift the implement to maintain the same drag initially set. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to watch.
@@twosawacres8096 yes the load increasing or decreasing at the top link adjusts the depth of the lower link.
On my Grey Ferguson there is only draft control, no positional control. This means you cannot use a rotary cutter as you would on a more modern tractor. You need a fixed link to the top link, no chain or swing link. You need the wheel at the back to impart force to get the draft control to lift and lower the linkage to follow the terrain.
If you think thats complicated have a look at a David Brown 900 series valve chest that controls the draft lifting extra. It works via a cable from the top of the top link same as the rods on the tractor here. M😀. Path of discovery on youtube has good vids on it.
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've come to your exact conclusions. I made a second video "leveling" the woodyard, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad. Turns were a bit tight, and since it doesn't really have cutting edges it went a bit slower than I hoped, but it worked. For the driveway I usually just use the York rake, if I have to really take it down or move a bit more material I'll hook up the box blade. I'd like a land level, someday hopefully.
Your pulling mostly horizontally, almost parallel to the bottom pivot, but well below it, of corse its going to tip up.... thats not anywhere close to replicating a downward force...since your pulling below the pivot i think any force at less than 90 deg (straight down) will make the top move towards the tractor..
Draft control is nothing but a relief valve. All it is supposed to do is keep the tool running at the pre set level. When the front wheels go up the relief valve opens and lets the lift arms raise. When the back wheels go up the relief valve opens and lets the lift arms drop to keep the tool at its pre set position. Most draft levers are marked lite to heavy lite be very sensitive and heavy not sensitive.
To level your lot blade it on 45 degree angles all the way across not in circles. About half the width of the rake on each pass.
Rubbish
You need a long drag or land plane. Not draft control
You are correct, ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad.
Interesting video. Couldn’t help noticing your still navy. Most people say forward and back not forward and aft
For life!
Yes I think you might be wise to do it by hand
I think that with your brain you could probably figure out how to get the astronauts home from the space station. Give NASA a call. Very impressive. If I watch this video a few times even I may understand my draft control. Thanks! Very impressive
I found this helpful. My manual for my New Holland workmaster is equally vague without any description of the levers function
Confusing to say the last.
Ain't new been using in uk for 60years at least
Good video.
Thank you.
Good video ! Even earlier MF booklets are not very thorough on that subject, either. You might find this video interesting th-cam.com/video/jJGAAhFztTw/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyCuIPl6AP9GXEkVzF4AaABAg
One advantageous use of the draft control in situations other than with soil engaging implements is when you are merely driving with any implement attached : by pushing the draft control lever down (or forward, if this is clearer) very slightly, you will find a position in which the draft control acts as a suspension. When driving over a bump or a pothole, the sudden weight difference exerted by the load on the top link will trigger the hydraulic system, some oil will be released (or, conversely, pumped in) so as to keep the load quite level. Hence less mechanical stress and an easier, smoother drive.
Great video... I remember reading about the ferguson when prepping for my video, works very similar. Is the same function though.
you are not farming .you are grading .draft control off .use a back blade or box scraper.
@@joehodgen7728 you correct, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad, flattened it right out.
Enlongated
you have the wrong to'ol on
Just build you a drag
@@mikeroot7897 I did, a 20' long chunk of railroad! Worked pretty good. Got a video on here of using it.