pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point.
Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control.
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 TH-cam channels I trust & turn to for answers.
Ive been scratching my head on this for weeks. Thanks for the vid.
pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point.
Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
I found this helpful. My manual for my New Holland workmaster is equally vague without any description of the levers function
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control.
Higher horsepower tractors have Lower Link Sensing, it is a sensor on the bottom of the lower link arms, not the sway bars as you said.
Awesome explanation
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 TH-cam channels I trust & turn to for answers.
Good video.
Interesting video. Couldn’t help noticing your still navy. Most people say forward and back not forward and aft
Ain't new been using in uk for 60years at least
Draft control makes the implement terrain following. Not really what you want for levelling.