Exactly right, Jason! I went with Pat’s Easy Change system because it truly fits any implement. Most quick hitch owners have to fiddle with the top hook position anyway for different implements so they end up getting off the tractor anyway.
Pat's quick hitches are great. They make hitching/unhitching far easier. Only major downside i ran across is the need for a longer top link, as it pushes things back 3-4 inches which eats up distance in your top link.
I use my 3 pt quick hitch for a snow blade, box blade, carry all and 6 foot snowblower. I think the trick is having the tractor and implement close to level with each other. It’s a misconception that you can just back up and hitch on without adjustment. You always need to tweak the top link and lower arms but imho it is a lot faster with a quick hitch. Good video as always. Thanks!
That's what I did, just cut some old log chain to length. Left a few links for future adjustments. Then ran bolts with lock washers. The only thing that a pain is adjusting the tension, you mess with the bolts and find the correct link.
I have a 1957 JD 520 and it has telescoping pull arms and a quick tach toplink. The only implement i can have issues with is the 3 bottom plow cause i need to build a prop stand since it lays down if ground is slightly soft
This is partly true. There are actually two things that determine the speed in which you connect am implement. Swearing and how big a hammer you are swinging while you are swearing 🤣😂
Thank you Neil. Great job explaining the issues. You helped me resolve an issue I have been having. I felt I should have some shims in my lower link pins. I was not sure if that was allowed.
You sure give lots of great Information in your videos. I'm not sure if you've done any yet, and there are some out there. But I was thinking a good accurate video for checking pto shaft length and proper cutting procedures or practice. I'm sure that there are many opinions but I figure from you or a service guy and a professionals view. Thanks
You might point out ( for beginners like my neighbor) that when buying pins for any given category, the upper pin is smaller than the lower one. For example on a category 2 the upper pin is not the same diameter as the category 2 lower pin. Neighbor bought upper category 2 pins and used on the lower arms and was convinced the holes were worn out (which they were not)…. Good video Neil.
@@markharrison6656 I've never tried it. There are a lot of good "dry" spray lubes on the market that are easier to use. You spray it on, the carrier evaporates and you are left with a lubricating film that doesn't attract dirt.
Honestly, having dirt stick to the ball isn't much of a concern. Once you get moving excess grease/oil will get stripped off pretty fast. Oil seems to disappear in no time. Opinions will vary, but I've had good luck with moly fortified high pressure grease. But then again my ball joints are already old enough that there is enough room for a bit of grease to make it into the space between the ball and the ring socket.
Dry lube won't last long, as the hitch moves, the dry lube usually flakes off. Oils, many say attracts "dirt", it's a tractor, certain points are going to "attract" dirt. It's the maintenance that should be adhered to that matters. WD-40 is about the best and cheapest to use, heck even water will act as a lube for those hitches until the rust begins to form. In many cases, hitches don't get used so, water still gets inside and still causes rust. Each their own. Cheers :)
My MH TC29D has two positions for connecting toplink to the tractor, ground engaging and not ground engaging. Can you explain how this works abd importance? I never can remember which is which!
Love the extendable lower links. I bought a quick hitch and haven't used it yet. Good point on top link leveling. A hydrolic top link really shows this an I think top and tilt kit is a must. Thanks Neil (or Neel)..
Just an observation. I once had a Fiat750. The sway bars were chains with turn-buckles with a special thread designed not to unravel whatever the forces the turn buckles were subjected to. Once tightened the implement would never move. You could use it for days never move. No lock nuts or locking system. No knocking skin off your knuckles getting in there. No elaborate knuckle busting crap. Just two turn buckles you could adjust by hand. This was designed back in the 1950s by Fiat. Why don't all Tractors have that system today?
Great comments..lol. i have a rotivator i never use coz the lower lift arms dont reach. The drive shaft for that weighs a ton. Plenty of colourful language when i first tried to fit it. 😊
Neil, would you do a video or include in one, the right way to have the top link set up for a bush hog. I have a swinging connection for the top link on our bush hog, that I swear was on backwards from the dealer, but that is the way it came 20 years ago so that is the way we used it. If I hook it up the way I see others doing it, the tail end of the mower sags down so much you cannot lift and back up without the tail wheel dragging the ground. Plus the arms that go from the top link to the back of the mower have become bent all to hell and I don't believe that is supposed to happen.
You can adjust the way the brush hog tips by changing which hole you use for the top link on the tractor (most tractors have a series of holes which you can attach the top link to). The lower down the mounting spot for the top link on the tractor, the more the tail of you implement will tip up as you lift it. So if you want your brushhog to stop dragging the wheel on the ground as you lift it, use a lower mounting hole for the top link. If the supports are all bent up it might be that you had the tail wheel carrying all the weight and when it hit high spots on the ground it would push against them and they are designed to lift the tail end (work in tension), not to keep it pushed down so they end up bending under the load. Edit, looks like smaller tractors might not have multiple positions to attach the top link. In which case you may need to adjust the attachment point height on your brushhog.
Consider doing a video about having a hydraulic Top & Tilt setup, please! The company that I worked for right out of school had all of their tractors setup that way. Makes fine grading much more accurate & switching attachments 10x faster!
You forgot about the soild stabilizer bars that was used on the old ford tractors (example 8n, red belly's and jubilee and etc) and older model massey's. In my area these tractors are very common and popular and still in use
Neil, you know you’ve got a ton of content when you forget the subject of the video that is being produced...😆 I really gain a lot of knowledge from your videos. Looking to buy a compact tractor soon - likely an L3301 or 3901 - soon. Wish your dealership was closer to me in Indiana. Thank you! Tony New
Hi Tony & Rodney! I also own an L3901 and love it! Have had it for over two years and 450 hours of seat time. And most of that time has been heavy digging with the loader and the backhoe. It’s built like a tank!
One thing you didn't mention was which set of holes to use on the tractor end of the center link connection. The owner's manual for your tractor should describe the intended use for each set of mounting holes based in the type of draft load the implement imparts to the tractor. For example, a "light to medium draft load implement" like a landscape rake would use the lowest set of holes. This also causes the implement to tilt forward - the vertical plane defined by the position of the lower and upper 3PH links - as it's raised, which in turn raises the landscape rake's teeth higher off the ground. For a "medium to heavy draft load implement" like a tiller or box blade, use the middle set of mounting holes. In this position, the implement will only tilt forward slightly as it is raised. Finally, for a "very heavy draft load implement" like a plow or ripper, use the upper most set of holes. This set of holes also causes the implement raise and lower while maintaining a relatively level position.
Also note that the hole positions used will also depend on whether or not your tractor has a 3PH "draft control" function. The description above is for a tractor that does not have any kind of "draft control". YMMV, so be sure to read your specific tractor's owners manual for detailed information on which set of 3PH upper link connection positions to use based your implement and operating conditions.
Brad, I think you’ve given the best explanation I’ve heard yet, on which top link holes to use with which implements and why. You taught me something. Thanks!
I have a Kubota MX5000 with the adjustable lift arms and I don't back up all the way and I leave them down a little bit because it light enough to pick up. It's worth it to get the extendable lift arms
I built a boom pole for my tractor, a Massey 175, it doesn’t lift like it should the geometry seems to be off, with my lower arms all the way up my top link is running fairly flat. Some poles I seen the top link is running very steep uphill, would this be the necessary change I need to make to mine? I could just weld new plates up higher.
One thing I always see is, a lot of people don't raise their 3 pt hitch and just let it run in the ground. That's the worst thing anyone can do. Those "balls" will rust in place and make it very difficult to hook up to implements. Quick hitches are often over-rated at best. Cheers :)
Just wondering.. but is there a reason the Walterscheid quick hooks (with the seperate balls to go on implements) we in Europe use aren't used on your side of the ocean?
@@MessicksEquip thanks! Always thought it might have something to do with regulations ;). And indeed on the Cat 1 stuff we don't see ehm here either. But Cat2 and up, its standard :)
@@MessicksEquip Thank you, I’ll try to tighten it more. I actually bought my 7’ Enorossi sickle bar mower at Messick’s and like it a lot. I’ve watched your video on the 5’ mower a couple of times, as well as other TH-camrs’ videos on Enorossi sickle bar mowers. There’s one feature that seems to be missing from the videos that would be helpful to me and I would suspect others re these mowers. I don’t understand what the chain is used for that attaches from the sickle mower to the tractor or how to set it up or use it. Would you kindly help me understand what I should do with this chain? There’s a plate and U bolt associated with it. Thank you very much,
@@ElHeffe9 i need a PTO driven Harley RAKE. FOR A 55 HP FORD TRACTOR . it has a roller to break up soil and rake at same time AND MOUNTS ON REAR OF TRACTOR
nice vid. two additional comments: "level up and down" is otherwise known as 'plumb' Also, Gosh forbid that you had to take two minutes to 'warn' of the 'dangers' of using snap ring pins...... sheeze...
Hahahaha cracked my ribs just after getting tractor. Ouch made for some fun cursing sessions! Getting it sussed now though. Rotary Tiller still sucks to get on lol
1 other issue with 3 pt quick hitch is that you are moving your load (the weight) backwards a few inches and it may affect the need for ballast on the front or more ballast to keep the tractor balanced
I have a 2006 New Holland TN60A, The lower link arms only go down to 17 inches off the ground. This is killing me because my old 1970 MF 30 industrials lower link arms go down to 12 inches off the ground making it possible to attach most implements. This New Holland TN60A wont lower the lower lift arms that low. Question: Is there a way to adjust the 3 point hitch system to make the lower lift arms to go down farther?>??
Not sure if you got an answer yet but try this if you haven't. Look on the right sidd of the seat for a sliding knob with numbers getting bigger going forward. This is the draft control, it sets a limit on how far down the arms will go. This is used mainly when pulling a plow. You set the depth initially and then each time you drop the plow in the ground, it should stop at the same depth each time. If your tractor doesn't have it beside the seat, check your owners manual or contact a dealer . I am not familiar with your particular tractor but most tractors i have ever been on have some way to set and regulate draft height. Good luck.
Has anyone split in two a driveshaft on a Bushog? I recently purchased a titan 7ft Bushog along with a a newholland work master 60 tractor, and have cut into two two driveshaft,s causing hem to brake into two pieces
Neil do you ever sell tractors with hook link arms instead of the ball type? Certainly to what I've seen in Scotland the ball type link arm is hardly ever used nowadays as the hook type is as quick as the quick coupler and safer in my opinion.
Over here we havent had the old type arms with balls since the 80s. it is all hook arms and toplink with hook. i my self are using hydraulic toplinks since 15 years back. . Hook style is way safer and easier to use. must be for legal issues in the states i guess. even saw OLF take off the pick-up hitch one one off his tractors cuz it wasnt legal to use over there.
Kroil oil works great as a lubricant and rusty nut buster. It will lossens a nut that hasn't been touched since the 60s. WD-40 can become gummy, not so with Kroil.
Spring pins, I've always called them lynch pins or finger mashers because that's what they're good at. The swaybar/pins, looks like New Holland went deep with them the ones that are on my New Holland tractor for a lot thicker and be fear maybe because my tractor is bigger who knows, just something I noticed
on the turnbuckle style sway bars on my kubota, to keep it from turning during use, i run a bungee cord from each turnbuckle up and over the top link. works much more reliably than the lock nuts that are installed on the turnbuckles.
i have a new holland 44" snow blower attachment, on a new holland gt 22 tractor the snow thrower also has a chain and belt driven both. but the problem is the belt keeps breaking
On a three point hitch mount backhoe (75-100hp) i have heard i need hydraulic down pressure to avoid excess stress or damage to tractor from backhoe use. If so is that pressure separate ( like a down pressure kit) from the one provided by down riggers?
Just bought a Claas Atos. They no longer supply the extending link arms like the ones on your ford. Shame because it can save a lot of time attaching implements.
Hard to find a good lynch pin anymore. Most have the loop coming all the way to the end of the pin, the problem is that in use the pins can slide far enough for the end of the pin to pop into the ball and with only the top now holding the pin bends. Older pins were built with about a hakf inch of pin extending past the closed loop and these never bend. Those pins you showed are today's standard, and they are poorly made junk.
I've lived in the south all my life on some sort of farm.I have never heard anyone whine about changing an impliment on a three point hitch ever.Must be a status symbol now to own a tractor.
Wouldn’t waste my time or money on a ‘quick hitch’ for implements..ur slide out ball joints like those u show are the best. trailer one , yes.. The lock pins are known as ‘Lynch pins’ for reasons you don’t need to explain..!
For the most part, I use a quick hitch as much as possible. But mounting the plow is the biggest pain in the ass since you can’t use a three point. Being an older gentleman, horsing the three point hitch can be frustrating to say the least.
After taking 20 minutes to attach a three furrow plough, I cut the 'quick' hitch European ends off the arms and welded balls on. Now I can attach the same plough in two minutes! I can't understand why these other things are made.
You talk a lot about the quick-hitch, but there is also another way. Quickcouplers at the lift arms and on the top link. Quickcouplers should be default, balls and pins are over rated. There is no need to get out of the tractor just to hook up a blade, a balance box or anything similar. When we talk pto and hydraulics it's another thing...
A good lubricant for the balls on the 3-pt is motorcycle chain lube. It had rust inhibitors, and is dry, so it doesn’t attract dust.
To new tractor owners using your 3 pt hitches, PATS QUICK HITCH!!!!!!!!! Its is a game changer.
Way better than any quick hitch. And really fit all
NICK G I have had one for over ten years, love it!
Exactly right, Jason! I went with Pat’s Easy Change system because it truly fits any implement. Most quick hitch owners have to fiddle with the top hook position anyway for different implements so they end up getting off the tractor anyway.
Absolutely agree! I just got one and it is sweet!! Should have gotten a long time ago. And lots cheaper too!
Pat's quick hitches are great. They make hitching/unhitching far easier. Only major downside i ran across is the need for a longer top link, as it pushes things back 3-4 inches which eats up distance in your top link.
As usual relavent information by a very knowledgeable tractor guy, well done Neil. Btw, those spring pins are called "knuckle pins" where I live :-)
I use my 3 pt quick hitch for a snow blade, box blade, carry all and 6 foot snowblower. I think the trick is having the tractor and implement close to level with each other. It’s a misconception that you can just back up and hitch on without adjustment. You always need to tweak the top link and lower arms but imho it is a lot faster with a quick hitch. Good video as always. Thanks!
Is it possible to replace the side links with chains. So as to allow for the implement say a flail mower to float over bumps??
That's what I did, just cut some old log chain to length. Left a few links for future adjustments. Then ran bolts with lock washers. The only thing that a pain is adjusting the tension, you mess with the bolts and find the correct link.
I was always told that the speed with which you get a 3 point impliment hooked up was dependant on the amount of swearing you did. Is this true?
I do see the correlation
I have a 1957 JD 520 and it has telescoping pull arms and a quick tach toplink. The only implement i can have issues with is the 3 bottom plow cause i need to build a prop stand since it lays down if ground is slightly soft
Yes, but it's likely backwards from what you are thinking. More swearing means more time.
This is partly true. There are actually two things that determine the speed in which you connect am implement. Swearing and how big a hammer you are swinging while you are swearing 🤣😂
Thank you Neil. Great job explaining the issues. You helped me resolve an issue I have been having. I felt I should have some shims in my lower link pins. I was not sure if that was allowed.
You sure give lots of great Information in your videos. I'm not sure if you've done any yet, and there are some out there. But I was thinking a good accurate video for checking pto shaft length and proper cutting procedures or practice. I'm sure that there are many opinions but I figure from you or a service guy and a professionals view.
Thanks
You might point out ( for beginners like my neighbor) that when buying pins for any given category, the upper pin is smaller than the lower one. For example on a category 2 the upper pin is not the same diameter as the category 2 lower pin. Neighbor bought upper category 2 pins and used on the lower arms and was convinced the holes were worn out (which they were not)…. Good video Neil.
Some tractors have top links that are Cat 1 on one side, and if you flip it Cat 2 on the other. Thats likely the case here.
I've watched a couple of your videos now and always learn something new, your explanations are clear and concise.
I recommend using a spray "dry lube" on the 3-point balls. It provides lubrication but won't attract any dirt or debris.
Think graphite would be good?
@@markharrison6656 I've never tried it. There are a lot of good "dry" spray lubes on the market that are easier to use. You spray it on, the carrier evaporates and you are left with a lubricating film that doesn't attract dirt.
Honestly, having dirt stick to the ball isn't much of a concern. Once you get moving excess grease/oil will get stripped off pretty fast. Oil seems to disappear in no time. Opinions will vary, but I've had good luck with moly fortified high pressure grease. But then again my ball joints are already old enough that there is enough room for a bit of grease to make it into the space between the ball and the ring socket.
Dry lube won't last long, as the hitch moves, the dry lube usually flakes off. Oils, many say attracts "dirt", it's a tractor, certain points are going to "attract" dirt. It's the maintenance that should be adhered to that matters. WD-40 is about the best and cheapest to use, heck even water will act as a lube for those hitches until the rust begins to form. In many cases, hitches don't get used so, water still gets inside and still causes rust. Each their own. Cheers :)
It's very important to maintain your balls!!
Great Videos. Very informative. Have you ever used Pats Quick connect hitch? I have for 8 years and wouldn’t be without them.
My MH TC29D has two positions for connecting toplink to the tractor, ground engaging and not ground engaging. Can you explain how this works abd importance? I never can remember which is which!
Love the extendable lower links. I bought a quick hitch and haven't used it yet. Good point on top link leveling. A hydrolic top link really shows this an I think top and tilt kit is a must. Thanks Neil (or Neel)..
It just occurred to me how much he looks like Mac from "It's Always Sunny In Philadelphia" 👍😎
Damnit, I’ll never be able to unsee this. Thanks a lot…. 🤣
Yes I've saying this for years hahaha. He's definitely giving that 3 point hitch an ocular pat down
@@chaseledbetter5186 .... Because of the "implication" 😅
@JPGtampa well don't you look at me like that! You certainly wouldn't be in any danger hahah best show ever
Dude right!
Best explanation i ever heard!!!! Great job fella, from Normandy France, appreciated!!!!
Hi Neil! Thanks all the good tips on the care and feeding of 3 point hitches! I always learn something useful from your videos.
What’s the little metal rectangle hanging off the side of the flat thing under the connectors or tractor has that and I have no idea what I does
Good video, I would like to see a video of the workings of a New Holland T4040F, with a front PTO, “instrument panel”
Just an observation. I once had a Fiat750. The sway bars were chains with turn-buckles with a special thread designed not to unravel whatever the forces the turn buckles were subjected to. Once tightened the implement would never move. You could use it for days never move.
No lock nuts or locking system. No knocking skin off your knuckles getting in there. No elaborate knuckle busting crap. Just two turn buckles you could adjust by hand.
This was designed back in the 1950s by Fiat.
Why don't all Tractors have that system today?
Didn't MF use this on their 100 series?
I absolutely love your jingle....it reminds me of the 80's.
Great comments..lol. i have a rotivator i never use coz the lower lift arms dont reach. The drive shaft for that weighs a ton. Plenty of colourful language when i first tried to fit it. 😊
Excellent video and information. There are many 'non standard' pins, hitches and more! Nice bloopers too, thanks
Save your time, left, right adjustable link, top link, done ✅
Neil, would you do a video or include in one, the right way to have the top link set up for a bush hog. I have a swinging connection for the top link on our bush hog, that I swear was on backwards from the dealer, but that is the way it came 20 years ago so that is the way we used it. If I hook it up the way I see others doing it, the tail end of the mower sags down so much you cannot lift and back up without the tail wheel dragging the ground. Plus the arms that go from the top link to the back of the mower have become bent all to hell and I don't believe that is supposed to happen.
Ohh Paul when I get in the field, I take the top link and disconnect it. It keeps the top bars of the brush hog from getting in a bind
You can adjust the way the brush hog tips by changing which hole you use for the top link on the tractor (most tractors have a series of holes which you can attach the top link to). The lower down the mounting spot for the top link on the tractor, the more the tail of you implement will tip up as you lift it. So if you want your brushhog to stop dragging the wheel on the ground as you lift it, use a lower mounting hole for the top link.
If the supports are all bent up it might be that you had the tail wheel carrying all the weight and when it hit high spots on the ground it would push against them and they are designed to lift the tail end (work in tension), not to keep it pushed down so they end up bending under the load.
Edit, looks like smaller tractors might not have multiple positions to attach the top link. In which case you may need to adjust the attachment point height on your brushhog.
Consider doing a video about having a hydraulic Top & Tilt setup, please! The company that I worked for right out of school had all of their tractors setup that way. Makes fine grading much more accurate & switching attachments 10x faster!
You forgot about the soild stabilizer bars that was used on the old ford tractors (example 8n, red belly's and jubilee and etc) and older model massey's.
In my area these tractors are very common and popular and still in use
Neil, you know you’ve got a ton of content when you forget the subject of the video that is being produced...😆
I really gain a lot of knowledge from your videos. Looking to buy a compact tractor soon - likely an L3301 or 3901 - soon. Wish your dealership was closer to me in Indiana.
Thank you!
Tony New
I own the l3901 really nice tractor I use it a lot
Hi Tony & Rodney! I also own an L3901 and love it! Have had it for over two years and 450 hours of seat time. And most of that time has been heavy digging with the loader and the backhoe. It’s built like a tank!
When making these videos try to keep in mind that the ‘tractor parts’ and Not the guy talking is what the camera should be focusing on.
One thing you didn't mention was which set of holes to use on the tractor end of the center link connection. The owner's manual for your tractor should describe the intended use for each set of mounting holes based in the type of draft load the implement imparts to the tractor. For example, a "light to medium draft load implement" like a landscape rake would use the lowest set of holes. This also causes the implement to tilt forward - the vertical plane defined by the position of the lower and upper 3PH links - as it's raised, which in turn raises the landscape rake's teeth higher off the ground. For a "medium to heavy draft load implement" like a tiller or box blade, use the middle set of mounting holes. In this position, the implement will only tilt forward slightly as it is raised. Finally, for a "very heavy draft load implement" like a plow or ripper, use the upper most set of holes. This set of holes also causes the implement raise and lower while maintaining a relatively level position.
Note that the hole position recommendations mentioned above come from the online owner's manual for a JD 4066R tractor.
Also note that the hole positions used will also depend on whether or not your tractor has a 3PH "draft control" function. The description above is for a tractor that does not have any kind of "draft control". YMMV, so be sure to read your specific tractor's owners manual for detailed information on which set of 3PH upper link connection positions to use based your implement and operating conditions.
Brad, I think you’ve given the best explanation I’ve heard yet, on which top link holes to use with which implements and why. You taught me something. Thanks!
Brad Meacham
I herd to put the top link in whatever hole so the link is level when the implement is at work
Thanks for doing these Neil, I almost always learn something from them.
I learned that any A frame quick hitch is good and anything else is stupid.
Love your videos! Always very straightforward and helpful
I have a Kubota MX5000 with the adjustable lift arms and I don't back up all the way and I leave them down a little bit because it light enough to pick up. It's worth it to get the extendable lift arms
Thanks for the excellent walkthorugh.. completely agree! 🌱
Thanks Neil! You answered my question!
Good overview of 3 point Mistakes. Always enjoy learning more. Have a fine week and fine Thanksgiving.
Love your vids mate. Keep up the good work!
I built a boom pole for my tractor, a Massey 175, it doesn’t lift like it should the geometry seems to be off, with my lower arms all the way up my top link is running fairly flat. Some poles I seen the top link is running very steep uphill, would this be the necessary change I need to make to mine? I could just weld new plates up higher.
One thing I always see is, a lot of people don't raise their 3 pt hitch and just let it run in the ground. That's the worst thing anyone can do. Those "balls" will rust in place and make it very difficult to hook up to implements. Quick hitches are often over-rated at best. Cheers :)
Thank you for these videos.
I need a headlight for a New Holland tc45d year 02. Looked on the net but can't find anything any suggestions.
messicks.com/nh/53237
@@MessicksEquip found my part got it ordered, thank you very much for your help. Enjoy your videos very much.
My neighbors know when those pins flip down and get my finger.
😆
Im needing a bolt on the side arm of PTO that attaches to an I match. Do you the part name or order number? thanks
Another good video Neal.
Do you mean "plumb" at about 5:00 rather than "level"?
What if the rotary cutter is swiveling too much that it rubs on the rear tires? We have the threaded sway bars?
Is there an external 3pt hitch leveler for a powerstar 75 2019 model
Just wondering.. but is there a reason the Walterscheid quick hooks (with the seperate balls to go on implements) we in Europe use aren't used on your side of the ocean?
Wondering this as well, seems like a no brainer. My 1987 ford 5610 even has them.
It's on some large Ag equipment, but unheard of on smaller stuff. Kinda like the skid loader vs euro coupler, just regional differences.
@@MessicksEquip thanks! Always thought it might have something to do with regulations ;). And indeed on the Cat 1 stuff we don't see ehm here either. But Cat2 and up, its standard :)
Thank u from ireland❤
Why does the toplink on my tractor come loose when mowing with my Enorossi sickle bar mower? Thank you.
Are you turning down the jam nut?
@@MessicksEquip Thank you, I’ll try to tighten it more.
I actually bought my 7’ Enorossi sickle bar mower at Messick’s and like it a lot. I’ve watched your video on the 5’ mower a couple of times, as well as other TH-camrs’ videos on Enorossi sickle bar mowers.
There’s one feature that seems to be missing from the videos that would be helpful to me and I would suspect others re these mowers. I don’t understand what the chain is used for that attaches from the sickle mower to the tractor or how to set it up or use it. Would you kindly help me understand what I should do with this chain? There’s a plate and U bolt associated with it. Thank you very much,
A helping hand with your land !
Great video Neil! Thanks
Great video, thanks a lot!
Thanks for the helpful video! A gentle reminder that not all tractor users are "guys."
Exactly the info I needed. Thank you.
I need a Harley rake for installing a new lawn on 2 acres do you sell any ?
Yes sir
Wait...i mighy have some. What are you wanting to buy?
@@ElHeffe9 i need a PTO driven Harley RAKE. FOR A 55 HP FORD TRACTOR . it has a roller to break up soil and rake at same time AND MOUNTS ON REAR OF TRACTOR
nice vid. two additional comments: "level up and down" is otherwise known as 'plumb' Also, Gosh forbid that you had to take two minutes to 'warn' of the 'dangers' of using snap ring pins...... sheeze...
Hahahaha cracked my ribs just after getting tractor. Ouch made for some fun cursing sessions! Getting it sussed now though.
Rotary Tiller still sucks to get on lol
If your tractor doesn't have sway bars on the lower links, you get the ultimate setup...
The tarp strap
1 other issue with 3 pt quick hitch is that you are moving your load (the weight) backwards a few inches and it may affect the need for ballast on the front or more ballast to keep the tractor balanced
I have a 2006 New Holland TN60A, The lower link arms only go down to 17 inches off the ground. This is killing me because my old 1970 MF 30 industrials lower link arms go down to 12 inches off the ground making it possible to attach most implements. This New Holland TN60A wont lower the lower lift arms that low. Question: Is there a way to adjust the 3 point hitch system to make the lower lift arms to go down farther?>??
Not sure if you got an answer yet but try this if you haven't. Look on the right sidd of the seat for a sliding knob with numbers getting bigger going forward. This is the draft control, it sets a limit on how far down the arms will go. This is used mainly when pulling a plow. You set the depth initially and then each time you drop the plow in the ground, it should stop at the same depth each time. If your tractor doesn't have it beside the seat, check your owners manual or contact a dealer . I am not familiar with your particular tractor but most tractors i have ever been on have some way to set and regulate draft height. Good luck.
Has anyone split in two a driveshaft on a Bushog? I recently purchased a titan 7ft Bushog along with a a newholland work master 60 tractor, and have cut into two two driveshaft,s causing hem to brake into two pieces
The driveshaft rubs against the deck of the bushg and eventually the driveshaft while rubbing against the deck will cut in two
Pats quick hitch!!! only way to go!!!
I was really hoping this video would give pointers on how to attach implements. I struggle every time.
Neil do you ever sell tractors with hook link arms instead of the ball type? Certainly to what I've seen in Scotland the ball type link arm is hardly ever used nowadays as the hook type is as quick as the quick coupler and safer in my opinion.
Over here we havent had the old type arms with balls since the 80s. it is all hook arms and toplink with hook. i my self are using hydraulic toplinks since 15 years back. . Hook style is way safer and easier to use. must be for legal issues in the states i guess. even saw OLF take off the pick-up hitch one one off his tractors cuz it wasnt legal to use over there.
Big farm yes. Not under 200hp
Messick's is that by customer choice?
@@Masseyman-nv2kl yes
No pickup hitchs in the USA
Kroil oil works great as a lubricant and rusty nut buster. It will lossens a nut that hasn't been touched since the 60s. WD-40 can become gummy, not so with Kroil.
What new Holland is that?
Can we get a demonstration of how to close those pins the wrong way? :-D
Just keep your willy out of it.
Spring pins, I've always called them lynch pins or finger mashers because that's what they're good at. The swaybar/pins, looks like New Holland went deep with them the ones that are on my New Holland tractor for a lot thicker and be fear maybe because my tractor is bigger who knows, just something I noticed
on the turnbuckle style sway bars on my kubota, to keep it from turning during use, i run a bungee cord from each turnbuckle up and over the top link. works much more reliably than the lock nuts that are installed on the turnbuckles.
Neil it made me think since we talk 3 pt hitch how about how you install a furrow plow?
i have a new holland 44" snow blower attachment, on a new holland gt 22 tractor the snow thrower also has a chain and belt driven both. but the problem is the belt keeps breaking
Great help. Thank you!
I could n't figure out why the 2 lower links were attached with a rod above. You should explain it to people who have not been around tractors much.
On a three point hitch mount backhoe (75-100hp) i have heard i need hydraulic down pressure to avoid excess stress or damage to tractor from backhoe use. If so is that pressure separate ( like a down pressure kit) from the one provided by down riggers?
Never heard of this one
Just bought a Claas Atos. They no longer supply the extending link arms like the ones on your ford. Shame because it can save a lot of time attaching implements.
nice explanation!
i miss the deluxe 3pt hitch I had on my New Holland..
Y is john deere 3 series rearend so narrow compared to other brands
Hard to find a good lynch pin anymore. Most have the loop coming all the way to the end of the pin, the problem is that in use the pins can slide far enough for the end of the pin to pop into the ball and with only the top now holding the pin bends. Older pins were built with about a hakf inch of pin extending past the closed loop and these never bend. Those pins you showed are today's standard, and they are poorly made junk.
Get the black ones from Tractor Supply.
@@boltactionshooter i was gonna say the same thing. I have a pair of black ones for primary use but kept the gold ones for spares or extras
from ethiopia how to gate one tierctor
So you do deal in LS tractors
New Holland, which shares some bones.
I aways wondered about that. Thanks
I've lived in the south all my life on some sort of farm.I have never heard anyone whine about changing an impliment on a three point hitch ever.Must be a status symbol now to own a tractor.
Good educational video.
Thanks
maintain your balls folks! use oil not grease.
Those spring pin is like a human mouse trap.
I use WD40E spray and keep it in the tool boxes
Wouldn’t waste my time or money on a ‘quick hitch’ for implements..ur slide out ball joints like those u show are the best.
trailer one , yes..
The lock pins are known as ‘Lynch pins’ for reasons you don’t need to explain..!
Good information.
For the most part, I use a quick hitch as much as possible. But mounting the plow is the biggest pain in the ass since you can’t use a three point. Being an older gentleman, horsing the three point hitch can be frustrating to say the least.
can't!! Course these want a b guys don't know nor even plant 1000 of acres of wheat or corn. Beyond your knowledge my friend
After taking 20 minutes to attach a three furrow plough, I cut the 'quick' hitch European ends off the arms and welded balls on. Now I can attach the same plough in two minutes! I can't understand why these other things are made.
People call those adapter bushings.
Sick Goatee.
You talk a lot about the quick-hitch, but there is also another way. Quickcouplers at the lift arms and on the top link. Quickcouplers should be default, balls and pins are over rated. There is no need to get out of the tractor just to hook up a blade, a balance box or anything similar. When we talk pto and hydraulics it's another thing...
Neil hook me up with one of those T-Shirts!
75 hp workmaster hy fluid filler cap