Never having had a tractor, I have been researching tractors and implements. I have been watching videos and asking tractor people what I need to keep a gravel drive in good shape. With all the conflicting videos and answers, I had become frustrated. This video straightened all that out. Thanks you so much for posting such an simple and informative video on the subject.
The land plane is better for maintaining a drive, especially if it has scarifying shanks on it, and if you think about what you are doing, it will do far more than what this guy is showing. Run it properly and you can fill in big holes, level large piles of aggregate, build a crown, reduce a crown, pull in your shoulders, build your shoulders out, in addition to regular smoothing and maintenance of your road.
On the box scraper you just have to very slowly lift it off the ground about 1 inch to 1 and 1/2 inches and that rock will dump out the bottom and be spread out.
Lengthen your top link to roll the box blade back and then it will not be as aggressive and it will ride a little on the back blade and that will pack it in, all in the same pass
I agree. I've had to make do with a box blade as an all in one implement so I guess I've mastered the art of adjusting it to fit my need. He doesn't pull the edges in to incorporate back into the road and he doesn't crown the driveway either, both of which will help keep the water off the road which means less potholes and less erosion.
@@cabinman I maintain a quarter mile gravel road here where we live and I generally will go over it a couple of times with the box blade and then use a landscape rake to bring the sides in. I also do one side of the road at a time working from the crown in and the sides in. That way it keeps the same slope from the crown on each side.
It is admirable for this young man to do the video after school in the afternoons for you, at 9:32 I want to say you could lift the box blade about 3/4 of an inch to re-spread the collective going the other way. from some one that owned both for 30+ years, the scraper spent 98% of its time on a shelf in the tool shed while the box blade was used almost exclusively. if ya can only buy one better make it the box blade. and so very many more uses such as but not limited to pulling gravel from a pile for spreading, ripping top soil for removal or loosening ground for tilling.. Now that is not what I know as a grading scraper. this here is a 3/4 box blade. for driveways only this is okay. but the full box blade will move hills of dirt and level the driveway in 2 passes.
THANK YOU!!! I've been looking through a ton of youtube vids trying to build something to level out my gravel driveway and didn't even realize I was trying to figure out whether I needed a box scraper or landplaner.
Once you get it level a section of chain link fence doubled up with a couple RR ties on top for weight works great for keeping it level and fill any holes. You can drag it with a small tractor but a 4-wheeler works best. Plus you’re allowing to drink beer on a quad even if you’re doing work with it.a😀 I had a driveway that was around 1200’ long and when I was leaving out I’d throw the chain over my trailer hitch and drag the road heading out and I’d pull over to the side at my gate and drop it. Then when I came back in I’d hook it back up and drag It back in the other direction. Works great for keeping it smooth and smoothing out the washboard lines
Box is all you need run slow an set your draft control levers just enough to cut high spots an filling low spots . You will fill box raise up when rear tires go into low spot an drop when crossing high spot
I’ve used a box blade to maintain my stone driveway for years and it was easy to use, once I figured out the best way (for me) to use it. I would set the angle so that the rear blade was on the ground and the front blade was about 5/8”-3/4” off the ground (depending on the gravel size). The front blade catches the high spots while still allowing some of the gravel to fall under the edge of the blade. The rear blade smooths out and compresses the gravel. It was so simple, gave me great results and it was a quick up and down the driveway and I was done.
I"ve got an old Deere 210L with the 1300 lb. Gannon box blade. It has taken me many hours to learn how to use it effectively. The 210L can control the pitch, left/right tilt, and scarifiers all from the cab. I have found working in 4WD and precisely controlling the blade pitch is the key to success with a box blade.
If you replace your top link with a chain, it will allow your box scraper to float when your front tire drops into a hole. I have an 8 foot box blade, and I have a 5 ft mesh roller on the rear. It floats on the roller, and does not dip and dive
I've been around skip loaders all my life and I've never seen one with a chain on the top link of the drag box. Skip loaders and farm tractors are almost 90% identical except for a few features. Skip loaders don't have draft control, PTOs or two stage clutches! But all skip loaders have grading/drag boxes, and top & tilt kits. And front loader buckets. For many years my dad had an agricultural Massey Ferguson that he used as a skip loader on many job sites. He also did a lot of weed abatement with it. Besides, if you leave the position control lever on float and angle the box correctly with top link then the front wheels dropping into a hole will not affect the grading angle or elevation of the box. Many people adjust the angle of the box with the hydraulic top link. Many skip loader operators learn to use a combination of the position control lever and the top link cylinder, and they can make adjustments on the fly. Being able to make adjustments on the fly saves a lot of time and headaches. I always do finish grading by using the top link cylinder. You can make fine adjustments with the top link cylinder much easier than with the position control lever. But if finances are a concern then do it the cheapest way you can, if you have the time. 😃
You missed the best part of the box blade. I put the outside teeth on backwards, and all the way down. Now they set a height for the blade to lay a perfect 2" of material like asphalt millings. People think I'm a pro. Lol
My new neighbor bought a box blade and wanted to try it out on our shared road. He lowered the teeth down as far as they would go, about 8 inches, and headed off down the hill, tearing the road bed up, leaving big rocks on the road. I had a short conversation with him.
He was an idi..! For doing general smoothing you can set the box blade all the way down on float and tilt it slowly forward until the front blade of the box blade just barely touches and then drive back and forth. That will cut off the hot spots and fill in the low spots automatically. Just like the overpriced garbage landplane.
Thank you for this in depth demonstration of the TWO rear grading blades on the market. I'm just asking in my Humble opinion, for (Land Pride) put a storage bin, on front of support arms for the box blade to store the Ripper shanks. Just maybe add Wt. To blade. Just saying because you said just put it on the side of the Grading area. Why not store them in the bin, and add Wt. To blade, that way the Rippers are not just left where you might forget in your work day. Covered over, forgotten You have them stored right on the box blade, just a ADD ON idea the Manufacturer might think about, PLUS added storage for extra, PINS and security clips, have extra and repair tools.
IronCraft, formerly Titan IMPLEMENTS, is not the cheap Chinese company reseller Titan Attachments. IronCraft is in Athens, TN, and, I believe, Decatur, TN. It's not junk. I thinks the brand name change will go miles to distance themselves from the cheap import knockoffs. Also, level the land plane/grading scraper. It puts both diagonal blades to use and better does what it's designed to do: level out dips and humps with loose material.
Normally you do not use rippers and the box plate at the same time! You do all your ripping first then use the box blade to move the material and grade it.
I am about a year late, but it still puzzles me when people demonstrate equipment and do not know how to properly use it. I almost lost a friend over this comparison. He purchased a grading scraper because he didn't understand how to set the top link on the box blade for the depth of cut and distributing the material. He told me I could not level my driveway with a box scraper and I had been doing it for a couple of years. I sent him pictures and he accused me of back blading with my bucket! I guess it was better to have no instruction when I purchased my Land Pride 48" bucket. At first I had the same problem the salesman in the video has, but once I looked at the blades on the back of the bucket it was obvious how to set it for distribution instead of scraping. I would like to have a hydraulic ram on the top link, but I only level my driveway once a year so I can twist the adjustment collar many times for what it would cost me to add the hydraulic link.
Would be great if you made a pass with the scraper with the reapers droped on the virgin area of the road! So we could see how the scraper reaps and levels the untreated surface. Also I would like to see both in action on soil. Great vid otherwise!!!
I use my land pride box blade that was purchased from you as a "sod cutter" it works great for that purpose and saves huge amounts of time vs using a sod cutter.
I use my box blade in conjunction w my bucket. The bucket smooths and feathers while the box blade pulls up the gravel and moves material. The bucket in reverse can move some surface stone, which is great to feather down the driveway. As others have said, angle adjustment on box blade is key.
Actually angle blades and box blades are two different devices. Angle blade is actually the best for pulling the sides in and grading the whole driveway. Box blade is second best. Land plan is number 10!!!! 😁😃👎🙄
I use both I use the box blade with rippers to loosen up the compacted gravel and fill the pit holes then swap over to road plane to level and put a good crown on the road
Lots of comments on your lack of experience and such. Don't worry about that. I do believe the title was box blade vs grading scraper and I would say you covered the basics well enough. Maybe next time some of these "pros" will show up and do it for you.🙄🤣
He never covered many of the proper basics .He doesn't have a clue about grading .Showing people when you don't know the proper techniques is miss leading. The people you talk of the 'pros" some of them have some knowledge and tips ,this guy doesn't have a clue ,Any one can hook up an implement and drag it down a gravel driveway .This is not teaching the proper way to do grading or the proper use of these implements.His lack of experience and knowledge of equipment shows. There are way better videos that people can learn from.
@@gordjohnson-w7u that reads as though you are one of those people who were mislead. Basics are exactly that. Basics. Anyone can watch videos about this but experience isn't gained by watching videos. That requires time in the seat.
@@TheBrushcutter I wasn't mislead at all I have forgotten more about grading than this guy will ever know. I hate when. people make these "basics" videos.He didn't talk about angles ,slope ,scarfing properly ,he doesn't even know where to position his bucket when operating.He wasn't teaching the proper techniques because he doesn't know them himself.Experience is gained in many ways not just seat time. Reading and being taught by experienced people and shown how to do these things properly and safely is how you learn .Seat time will will give you the skill required to do the task, and only if you know what needs to be done and how to do it.
Grading scraper is great at lawn leveling and top dressing a yard.. just did a Property we purchased this past summer.. the grading scrapper holds more material than this guy leads on about.. he honestly doesn't know how to use either of these very well. Neither of them where being used properly for a driveway resufacing ..The landpride ones have forward and reverse blades .. buying the one with adjustable skis is the trick
@@glenlohane-adayinthelife7361 there is an adjustable link on the 3point lifting arm. You shorten or lengthen it so that the implement is tilted in the direction you need to create the slope, or crown in the road.
@Glenlohane - A Day in the Life ... exsactly waht gregg said .. however a crown is not always required for drainage.. a crown will actually make 2 ditches to collect water as the vehicles compact the tire path.. vehiles make thier own crown vis compaction.. every driveway Is also differnt..... the land plane moves material right to left if you actually need a crown a dramatic one is not needed .. ... often a slight grade right or left is sufficient. Depending on the terain .. also.. often the grading along the driveway surface Is the culprit of poor drainage... you want the water to move but you also don't want it moving fast... that causes the washout.. .. easiest way to see what needs done is to go out in a nice rain storm and "read" what the waters movement is doing... it will show you everything you need to know
@@glenlohane-adayinthelife7361use the box blade or an angle blade. Angle blade is best for pulling material into the roadway to build a crown. I'm a 30-year Union heavy equipment operator.
It looks like you are not setting the depth of your 3pt. Are you just dropping it to the bottom and letting if float where it wants to for both the boxblad and scraper?
There is no grader or scraper in this video! There's a drag box and a land plane. Lots of people call things by the wrong name, even machinery sales people, sometimes even factories, sometimes even professional heavy equipment operators.
10:28 take your thick pile of gravel and spread it back down the right side of the driveway where it’s mainly dirt, there’s always a use for the top scrapings
If you had a hydraulic top link, you could have pushed the box grader away from the machine, which then allows the material to spill out under the cutting blade, depending on how much you adjust the top link. Box grader and hydraulic top link go together like hand and glove.
Box blade is must, although a lot of adjustments along the way. Use land plane to finish up an hour or so sooner. I need a land plane. Well maybe not need but damn sure want.
@@gregdickerson2957definitely! Box blade with the top and tilt kit are by far the best setup for grading. That's what they use on almost every job site for grading driveways and parking lots before paving. They are very very versatile.
Very well done video. Concise. Matter of fact. Pleasure to watch. Though I would add that I've been watching a few videos trying to decide what implement to obtain for our gravel drive. It seems that for that last pot hole it really should have been scarified first then filled in. Otherwise, just filling it will allow it to just come back later. I'm new at this, I could be wrong.
Appreciate the feedback! You are correct, it probably should have been dug out a little first and then smoothed back over. For the video I just did the basics, after the video my brother spent a few hours on the road getting it in tip top shape!
Blorph1 if your drive is already established get the grader scraper also known as a landplane. And get one with the scarifiers. Like you said potholes NEED to be ripped up or they WILL come back. I have the LandPride and it works fantastic. I find the box blade is good for moving a lot of material but not good for smoothing out surfaces as you could see how it bounced and undulating as he used it. They like to dig not resurface. And the grader scraper works best when both blades are level with the ground. You can also create a small crown with the scraper.
You are absolutely right! Scarify and mix thoroughly before smoothing and compacting. Far too many people push rock into holes and when it rains that rock gets washed out because there's not enough mixed material compacted in there.
@@hagen8745it is neither a grader or a scraper. A greater is a giant 6 wheel machine and is about 20 ft long with an 8 function blade designed to grade roads and giant parking lots. A scraper is a giant articulating machine with tires that are about 6 ft tall, scoops up truck loads of material in a single pass to move to another location on the job site. I really wish people would learn the correct names for things. 🙄 .
No offence.. but maybe you should watch some TH-cam videos on how to use those attachments properly before making a video..then also on how to renew a gravel driveway properly
My favorite boxblade is a very old rollover type. Those old rollover box blades give you a box going forward and a box going backwards. No other box blade on the market does that! They have been manufactured by several different companies including Gannon. You simply pull the lever and let it flip over to a different side. 😃 Those have rippers you can stick down in the ground at least a foot deep.
You dont want to just dump gravel in pot hole. You need to break up ground to below level of pot hole or it will be back in no time. Need to get rid of the hard surface dish or it will never be smooth road
Great comment Sir. Makes total sense and I never thought of the need to break up the bottom of the pot hole before filling it in and compacting it all back down. I am one of those complete novices watching these videos and reading all of your excellent comments so I don't look like a complete idiot. US Navy Iraq VET trying to earn his keep in retirement, helping three families maintain their driveways next spring. I'm looking to buy a KUBOTA BX to mow lawns, and get a box blade to maintain gravel driveways. Thx!
@InSnomadian04 have family in the US, thanks for your service 👏. Yes without breaking ground up around/below pot hole your just filling a hole which already has hard side (basically a memory) and it will just cause loose new gravel to come out of hole
If you need to refresh your road every year, you need to find the underlying problem. Eiter a larger rock in the base to spread weight out, adjust your grade so it rolls water off the road, raise the road or move water away from the side of the road. We get 30-90 inches of rain a year around here and roads can last 5 years+ if they are done right.
If you dont mind me asking what do your roads usually consist of? I know I did a long driveway with 1-1/2" to 2" stone base with a top layor of 57 Crusher run mixed with 3/8 pea gravel in a 2-1 mix. Been 3 years and still no potholes. I have heard adding stone dust to the top can make it really smooth almost like a road.
Large base rock will ruin road base. You can never keep it from working up and causing trouble. I've heard farmer roadbuilders suggest big rock for base and had a parking lot that I finally had to just haul off and replace with 1 in. Gravel so I could grade it smooth.
I know cabota tractors pretty well. In my opinion, that attachment was better scarifiers. Maybe smaller and twice as many scarifiers on the front of the trac, so remove the bucket. Because it's quick attached and attached the box blade on the front.That's where I prefer that to be
You run the box blade so it doesn't pickup or fill on the low spots. Drop it and let it fill on the high spots. When you hit the next low spot, gradually lift and it will evenly spread into the low spot. If you have some left at the end of your pass, turn sideways and dump it. Pick it back up after you turn the tractor around to go the other way. Again, just drop it back in the low areas.
Rule number one: If you are not pulling a full box you are not grading. You only end up with a full box because you did not properly distribute the material. Adjust the top link to roll the blade back to make it less aggressive and to allow the back blade to work at packing. Or forward to make it more aggressive to move more material. Use your 3 point leveling crank to tilt the box left or right to distribute material for crowning the road etc. Lift the box a little to distribute the box BEFORE you stop. The only dummy attached to the land plane or the box blade was the operator.
Great video. I'm learning on what I need for my field. Question... How does the tiller cope with last year's sticks, and small rocks, and maybe the odd big one. (They keep coming up each time my renter farmer does our land.). I'm hoping to purchase my own equipment in future. Thanks
If the ground you will be working is going to have a lot of debris in it, I recommend a Forward till tiller. That will allow it to kick the debris out the back, instead of pulling it into itself. Tillers normally do just fine with small rocks and twigs/roots but anything larger than an inch or so can get bound up in it, so just be cautious!
A rear blade is much like a box blade in the fact it can move material, but since it pours out of each side rear blades are almost only for smoothing material, or spreading it out. Also can be used for snow!
Must be a super light box blade if the ripper shanks was keeping the box off the drive way, i sit mine on my 15yr packed drive and they rippers sank like a rock in water. My Mahindra 6’ is 680lbs
Got that right! It's a nice boat anchor!!! Anybody who knows how to use a box blade like professionals on job sites would never touch a landplane! You will never ever see a land plane on any commercial or industrial job site. If there was one on a job site everybody would bust a gut laughing their heads off!!!!
@@TF856So you're saying the first implement he used (the box blade) is the one to use and become skilled at, correct? I'm seeing so many different terms for each of these implements, that I'm getting confused lol. Thanks for any help!!
I sold my box blade right after I used my armstrong ag grader. I haven't found anything the box blade does better. I can move a lot of dirt with my grader. If you use the grader right it can drag as much as the box blade, maybe more. I can spin all 4 tires on my 50HP kubota with my 6 foot grader blade when it is digging hard and full of material.
Just bought a brand new LX 4020 to move snow in mountain resort. dealership put howes diesel treatment in it and sold me a bottle to treat diesel because the temp i around 0 degrees F at 10000 feet elevation. I have 17.2 hours on the tractor and the thing won’t start. tried for 3 days finally put 911 in fuel filter and added a little to the tank as per specs. still won’t start. had to tow it through 4 feet of snow 150 yards as the kubota dealership in my area wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor just to drive out to and from my location because i didn’t buy it from them. took it to a kubota dealership in a different state but only 1.5 hours from me. They told me the DPF is completely clogged due to the fuel. SOOO no warranty and no insurance coverage. $12000.00 to fix. the tractor was only $39000.00 WTF! Kubota service and insurance and Sales all suck. They blame it on the other dealerships, no one is taking responsibility for taking care of tractor. Read your manual and warranty and insurance form. If it is fuel related. NO COVERAGE. DONT BUY Kubota! LIARS and Fraudsters. Does anyone have any insight or help here ? Just lost over $20000 on contracts for snow removal. and looks like i wont be getting this tractor back for at least 3 to 4 weeks, even if i pay the extortion money to fix it. and then im sure it will just gel up again and and wont start and will have to go through this all again in another 17 hours. only about 15 total gallons of fuel have gone through this engine 8 of which was put in by the dealer and i only put 12 oz. of howes in the 10 gallons of ulsd i bout from costco. teir one diesel.
It's recommended to have a hydraulic Top and Tilt Kit! Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy trying to readjust it! Having the hydraulic operated rippers is also a huge advantage!
$1900?! I bought a Kubota brand box grader for 1750 and it had blades on both sides, and the sides were 3/8 plate, and the mounting bar for the blades was 1/2 plate. Those flimsy ones won't last if you hit anything with it.
The first thing ng to do is throw away that Land Pride junk attachment!! The ripper teeth holders are cheesy little spring clips that pop out easily during use. I had to paint all my Land Pride teeth neon green so i could walk around and find them after using the attachment.
Multiple names for the same item! A Grading scraper and a LandPlane are the exact same thing, just depends on who you talk to which name is used. Kind of like a bush hog is also a rotary cutter, brush hog and tough cut mower.
Why is the box plate more expensive than the scraper? I think it has the same amount of materials and it is not complicated to build comparing to scraper. I think they have even pretty much the same weight.
You are correct, normally a grading scraper is more expensive than the box blade! If we compare the same brand implements, it is that way. LandPride is more expensive than a smaller brand like Titan or Ironcraft.
I was going to say, the "Land Plane" is probably the single most requested service I get requested.... absolutely the best investment I ever made..... and my LP has the scarifiers as well
I am not at all surprised. Lots of people ask for certain things when they don't know any better. Land planes are practically useless and they are used by people who don't know how to use a box blade.
A box blade is supposed to have an hydraulic top link to be able to adjust the pitch of the blade on the fly. Without it the box blade is not going to perform as it was designed to.
Iv always had a box blade been hearing more and more about scraper boxes/grader boxes. I am glad I watched this as I will be keeping my box blade when I buy new tractor. The grader looks like a joke. Not impressed how that worked and always only pulls materials to 1 side so if you are grading a hill you can only crown up hill one way. Then have to pull materials down hill for opposite side crown. They should make the rails adjust so you can change the flow of materials to each side of box if needed
Professionally speaking it takes more skill to use a boxblade than it does the other, because you can do so many more things with a boxblade than you can with the other. That's why boxblades are used on so many construction sites!
For the (Titan) they should put a storage bin on each side for Wt. That instead of storage of Ripper at your feet in the cab floor board. Getting in the way. It's stored on grader support sides. Just my Humble opinion, that manufacturing should think about. STORAGE of equipment that you remove to make the job easy. It's with the grader all the time, even when NOT used. I highly recommend Never just leave rippers on the side of the driveway. It's so easy to forget where you left them on LONG grading jobs. Just my thoughts on equipment storage.
All he had to do was raise that center one and pin it through the lowest hole. No need to flip it or remove it. It would have been plenty high to not cause a problem.
@@fruitfarmfords8243 yeah, I get that. But it wasn't titled "the pros guide to..." Or "how to use..." This was simply showing the differences between the two implements. And he covered that well enough for this video.
A box blade is not an easy thing to master. You can screw yourself up royally if you're not paying attention to the dips and rises as you drive over them.
Indeed. Whatever you drive over will be translated into the box, unless the box is "floating". Most people, myself included, use a solid top link, but a chain is better for some jobs. And then there are jobs that are best suited for a grader. (motor grader blade, aka "snow pusher".)
From a guy who used a box blade for years I'll throw in my two cents. If you are doing a lot of leveling or if you are maintaining a driveway the land plane is the way to go. If you set your top link correctly a child can maintain a driveway.
As far as scraping you can do it with the front bucket also. Dislike those hst tractors, prefer the old stick shift. And why raise the bucket up so high when moving? Never understood that unless you're moving something long and flimsy, droops.
Neither can ever be more than mediocre as they are rear mounted. it's just simple mechanics. There is good reason road graders have mid mounted blades and dozers have front mount. It's possible to make one with its own trailing gauge wheels and just use the tractor for pulling (no top link), but I haven't seen any designed like that other than a really big beast for the double-dually tractors, and it needed aux hydraulics to raise and lower.(basically a simple road grader frame minus the engine.) By the way that thing you (or the manufacturer) is calling a grading scraper is not a grading scaper. it is actually a land-plane which is meant just for smoothing the micro-grade (potholes, burms, mole-hills) stuff generally less than ten feet Though they use big landplanes before planting orchards to make mowing pruning and harvest easier. A grader is used mainly for setting macro-grade, getting things level or smoothing transitions over tens to hundreds of feet (the radius of dip through a valley or rise over a hill) and pretty much requires wheels in front and behind the blade. Dump trucks, dozers, belly scrapers, excavators, and loader buckets for moving bulk material. then a real grader to set the final few inches of grade, then a land plane is a cheap and easy smoothing without disturbing the existing grade too much.
Thank you for bringing up a good point. Where I live it snows and a box blade has very limited use to me . A rear blade is a lot more useful to me in that it works great for snow removal ,a land plane or box blade is useless for that . I have equipped my scraper blade with a set of york rake gauge wheels and for me for gravel ,sand or top soil it works better than anything else . It's also very effective for when it snows and the ground isn't frozen ,much better than snow plow skids.
I've been looking for this comment. We have a property with over a half mile of road to maintain. The angle blade is all we ever used until a few years ago. It is the best for all around, ditching, grading and crowning. The box blade and land plane are good for crown work. But when it comes to building swales or ditching for drainage, don't bother with those. The angle blade is the only way to go.
BOY -- you guys really needed someone with a lot more of on the farm experience - both pieces were being used in a wrong way for best results - I have some xperiences from back to 1980 - and learning the hard way - and learning from mistakes and practices -- is my wheelhorse - some will of course disagree - as always --- box blades - never remove the teeth - or Scarifiers as some may call them - it helps with the balance and finish results - even if they are only kept even - even if you are only moving large amounts of dirt - but especially on gravel - each and every pass it makes it easier to move gravel along the way - that way you never take too much at one time - everybody is always in a hurry to finish - but thats Not the way - repetition is the Key - and moving small amounts is the only way at one time - even with the leveler - repetition is the key - and the teeth will make it more so for moving small amounts in the right places - and with each pass it will loosen just a little more substance to be leveled - the more gravel that becomes loose - the smoother it will become - especially with pot holes or rain ruts - they will be completely removed so that they will take much much longer to reappear - sometime completely removing them all together - all ruts need at least 2 foot of material around them to be conditioned to really be fixed right so that the rocks have some place to equal themselves out and pack correctly so that reappearance does not accrue so easily - some of mine never come back - rain ruts are not so easy to conquer - - A box blade will remove far more material at one time that a leveler - such as large quantities of dirt when leveling yards - -and if used correctly - will make a smooth surface as good as a leveler if used correctly and slowly enough - people are always looking for a quicker and easier way to do anything - even if it doesn't work as good in the long run - Such is Life !
Would be a much better video if it informed viewers on how to properly use the boxblade. This person is totally inexperienced. Grabbing all the material and pulling it all down to the other end is NOT how it's done. Lol. The beauty of the box (when used properly) is that it quickly levels and or grades angles in. After material is dispersed, the box is designed so when it is set to a grade (by lifting and using at set position on 3pt lift), it grabs the high points, then hovers over and disperses the material in the low spots, doing two things at once. This makes quick work of making a perfectly graded area.
Lot’s of armchair experts here in the comments. Wonder why they’re here watching TH-cam and not off making millions with all their mad knowledge 😂. Nice video!
@TheAmazingHalfBreed mate, firstly, I didn’t ask a question. Literally no questions in my comment. Secondly, I didn’t even address you, have no idea who you even are 😂 find something better to do with your time mate.
Either you have really cheap scarifiers or whoever welded the teeth on didn't know how to weld. I reverse often while back blading and have never damaged one of mine. But all my implements are made in America... Especially the one's I built such as a land plane with quick release ripper bar, grapple, v-blade brush cutting shear and stump pulling rig to name a few.
@@TheBrushcutter Whelp I bought a LANDPRIDE GS72 FROM THE LOCAL KUBOTA DEALER. The reason why they were ripped off they were dimpled on the shanks. We found 5 of the 6 and bought more. Now their welded on. I do agree with you if welded to begin with it wouldn't have been a issue.
@@gregoryhumphries8956 by dimpled I can only guess you mean spot welded? Yeah, that isn't the best method for attaching something that will be abused on the regular. I can see how they would easily be popped off.
@@TheBrushcutter they weren't spot welded either. They were pressed on to the shank. You can go to any LandPride Dealer and see this. They've been welded on and a couple replaced. Actually a shame I paid so much for such a britle piece of equipment. We grade 4.5 miles of gravel roadway with it. The road was bombed before that tool. What used to take a month with a grader blade was achieved in a few days. Also brought back years of gravel.
@@gregoryhumphries8956 that is a lot or road! 4.5 miles, minimum 2 passes -1 down, 1 back - if you're lucky. 9 miles at least. Yeah, I can see how you would want the fastest method for sure.
Never having had a tractor, I have been researching tractors and implements. I have been watching videos and asking tractor people what I need to keep a gravel drive in good shape. With all the conflicting videos and answers, I had become frustrated. This video straightened all that out. Thanks you so much for posting such an simple and informative video on the subject.
We bought a Kubota L2501 a few years ago. Best tool we've ever bought. Game-changing (and pretty fun).
You will do just fine with a cheap second-hand blade mine was 200 dollars and works great
The land plane is better for maintaining a drive, especially if it has scarifying shanks on it, and if you think about what you are doing, it will do far more than what this guy is showing. Run it properly and you can fill in big holes, level large piles of aggregate, build a crown, reduce a crown, pull in your shoulders, build your shoulders out, in addition to regular smoothing and maintenance of your road.
Box blade is what I use. Learn to flattened and feather w your bucket.
@@fedup3582lol!
On the box scraper you just have to very slowly lift it off the ground about 1 inch to 1 and 1/2 inches and that rock will dump out the bottom and be spread out.
Lengthen your top link to roll the box blade back and then it will not be as aggressive and it will ride a little on the back blade and that will pack it in, all in the same pass
My thoughts too. And tilt it fwd a bit on the initial ripping can also do some as part of the first pass. My favorite tool
I saw the same thing
I agree. I've had to make do with a box blade as an all in one implement so I guess I've mastered the art of adjusting it to fit my need. He doesn't pull the edges in to incorporate back into the road and he doesn't crown the driveway either, both of which will help keep the water off the road which means less potholes and less erosion.
@@cabinman I maintain a quarter mile gravel road here where we live and I generally will go over it a couple of times with the box blade and then use a landscape rake to bring the sides in. I also do one side of the road at a time working from the crown in and the sides in. That way it keeps the same slope from the crown on each side.
You guys are right
Excellent video, good content, and helpful. Thank you for putting it out!
Great job with video sir thank you. Learned a lot. Reading constructive comments helped me too.
It is admirable for this young man to do the video after school in the afternoons for you, at 9:32 I want to say you could lift the box blade about 3/4 of an inch to re-spread the collective going the other way. from some one that owned both for 30+ years, the scraper spent 98% of its time on a shelf in the tool shed while the box blade was used almost exclusively. if ya can only buy one better make it the box blade. and so very many more uses such as but not limited to pulling gravel from a pile for spreading, ripping top soil for removal or loosening ground for tilling.. Now that is not what I know as a grading scraper. this here is a 3/4 box blade. for driveways only this is okay. but the full box blade will move hills of dirt and level the driveway in 2 passes.
The scraper has fangs and it can loosen and cut the ground with them, right?
I am between a choice of two
THANK YOU!!! I've been looking through a ton of youtube vids trying to build something to level out my gravel driveway and didn't even realize I was trying to figure out whether I needed a box scraper or landplaner.
Once you get it level a section of chain link fence doubled up with a couple RR ties on top for weight works great for keeping it level and fill any holes. You can drag it with a small tractor but a 4-wheeler works best. Plus you’re allowing to drink beer on a quad even if you’re doing work with it.a😀 I had a driveway that was around 1200’ long and when I was leaving out I’d throw the chain over my trailer hitch and drag the road heading out and I’d pull over to the side at my gate and drop it. Then when I came back in I’d hook it back up and drag It back in the other direction. Works great for keeping it smooth and smoothing out the washboard lines
Box is all you need run slow an set your draft control levers just enough to cut high spots an filling low spots . You will fill box raise up when rear tires go into low spot an drop when crossing high spot
I’ve used a box blade to maintain my stone driveway for years and it was easy to use, once I figured out the best way (for me) to use it. I would set the angle so that the rear blade was on the ground and the front blade was about 5/8”-3/4” off the ground (depending on the gravel size). The front blade catches the high spots while still allowing some of the gravel to fall under the edge of the blade. The rear blade smooths out and compresses the gravel. It was so simple, gave me great results and it was a quick up and down the driveway and I was done.
Really good informative video! I’d like to see how those tines/forks work on the grading scraper.
I"ve got an old Deere 210L with the 1300 lb. Gannon box blade. It has taken me many hours to learn how to use it effectively. The 210L can control the pitch, left/right tilt, and scarifiers all from the cab. I have found working in 4WD and precisely controlling the blade pitch is the key to success with a box blade.
With a Top and Tilt kit you can get real fancy with a box blade. We put down some extra gravel about every 10-15 years here and there.
If you replace your top link with a chain, it will allow your box scraper to float when your front tire drops into a hole. I have an 8 foot box blade, and I have a 5 ft mesh roller on the rear. It floats on the roller, and does not dip and dive
I've been around skip loaders all my life and I've never seen one with a chain on the top link of the drag box.
Skip loaders and farm tractors are almost 90% identical except for a few features.
Skip loaders don't have draft control, PTOs or two stage clutches!
But all skip loaders have grading/drag boxes, and top & tilt kits.
And front loader buckets.
For many years my dad had an agricultural Massey Ferguson that he used as a skip loader on many job sites. He also did a lot of weed abatement with it.
Besides, if you leave the position control lever on float and angle the box correctly with top link then the front wheels dropping into a hole will not affect the grading angle or elevation of the box.
Many people adjust the angle of the box with the hydraulic top link.
Many skip loader operators learn to use a combination of the position control lever and the top link cylinder, and they can make adjustments on the fly.
Being able to make adjustments on the fly saves a lot of time and headaches.
I always do finish grading by using the top link cylinder.
You can make fine adjustments with the top link cylinder much easier than with the position control lever.
But if finances are a concern then do it the cheapest way you can, if you have the time. 😃
@churlburt nice, I will have to give it a try!
Can you post a picture or link? Sounds great
You missed the best part of the box blade. I put the outside teeth on backwards, and all the way down. Now they set a height for the blade to lay a perfect 2" of material like asphalt millings. People think I'm a pro. Lol
@TF856 not all 3pth have draft
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
My new neighbor bought a box blade and wanted to try it out on our shared road. He lowered the teeth down as far as they would go, about 8 inches, and headed off down the hill, tearing the road bed up, leaving big rocks on the road. I had a short conversation with him.
He was an idi..!
For doing general smoothing you can set the box blade all the way down on float and tilt it slowly forward until the front blade of the box blade just barely touches and then drive back and forth.
That will cut off the hot spots and fill in the low spots automatically.
Just like the overpriced garbage landplane.
😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you for this in depth demonstration of the TWO rear grading blades on the market. I'm just asking in my Humble opinion, for (Land Pride) put a storage bin, on front of support arms for the box blade to store the Ripper shanks. Just maybe add Wt. To blade. Just saying because you said just put it on the side of the Grading area. Why not store them in the bin, and add Wt. To blade, that way the Rippers are not just left where you might forget in your work day. Covered over, forgotten
You have them stored right on the box blade, just a ADD ON idea the Manufacturer might think about, PLUS added storage for extra, PINS and security clips, have extra and repair tools.
IronCraft, formerly Titan IMPLEMENTS, is not the cheap Chinese company reseller Titan Attachments. IronCraft is in Athens, TN, and, I believe, Decatur, TN. It's not junk. I thinks the brand name change will go miles to distance themselves from the cheap import knockoffs.
Also, level the land plane/grading scraper. It puts both diagonal blades to use and better does what it's designed to do: level out dips and humps with loose material.
A landplane is for people who don't know what they're doing.
It's like people who buy an automatic because they don't know how to shift. 😁
Nice demo. How about blade that will off set and angle to the side to clan out shallow ditch high edges?
Hydraulics are there so you can lift your box blade a bit and not dig out as much material ????!!!! Shaking my head !!!
Normally you do not use rippers and the box plate at the same time!
You do all your ripping first then use the box blade to move the material and grade it.
I am about a year late, but it still puzzles me when people demonstrate equipment and do not know how to properly use it. I almost lost a friend over this comparison. He purchased a grading scraper because he didn't understand how to set the top link on the box blade for the depth of cut and distributing the material. He told me I could not level my driveway with a box scraper and I had been doing it for a couple of years. I sent him pictures and he accused me of back blading with my bucket!
I guess it was better to have no instruction when I purchased my Land Pride 48" bucket. At first I had the same problem the salesman in the video has, but once I looked at the blades on the back of the bucket it was obvious how to set it for distribution instead of scraping. I would like to have a hydraulic ram on the top link, but I only level my driveway once a year so I can twist the adjustment collar many times for what it would cost me to add the hydraulic link.
Good video..nicely done.
What if you want to smooth out a field so you can plant up a silvo pasture? what's the best implement for that?
Super helpful! Thanks
Rear articulating blade works wonders for windrowing oversized, indigenous material as well.
Excellent demo
Would be great if you made a pass with the scraper with the reapers droped on the virgin area of the road! So we could see how the scraper reaps and levels the untreated surface. Also I would like to see both in action on soil. Great vid otherwise!!!
Great video. Recommend a hydraulic top link and it will be even better.
I use my land pride box blade that was purchased from you as a "sod cutter" it works great for that purpose and saves huge amounts of time vs using a sod cutter.
How do you preserve the sod with that?
It seems like that would just tear up the sod and destroy it.
@@TF856he's using it as a "sod cutter" to remove the old lawn.
I use my box blade in conjunction w my bucket. The bucket smooths and feathers while the box blade pulls up the gravel and moves material. The bucket in reverse can move some surface stone, which is great to feather down the driveway.
As others have said, angle adjustment on box blade is key.
Actually angle blades and box blades are two different devices.
Angle blade is actually the best for pulling the sides in and grading the whole driveway.
Box blade is second best. Land plan is number 10!!!! 😁😃👎🙄
Great Demonstration - thanks!
I use both I use the box blade with rippers to loosen up the compacted gravel and fill the pit holes then swap over to road plane to level and put a good crown on the road
Lots of comments on your lack of experience and such. Don't worry about that. I do believe the title was box blade vs grading scraper and I would say you covered the basics well enough. Maybe next time some of these "pros" will show up and do it for you.🙄🤣
Lol!!!
He never covered many of the proper basics .He doesn't have a clue about grading .Showing people when you don't know the proper techniques is miss leading. The people you talk of the 'pros" some of them have some knowledge and tips ,this guy doesn't have a clue ,Any one can hook up an implement and drag it down a gravel driveway .This is not teaching the proper way to do grading or the proper use of these implements.His lack of experience and knowledge of equipment shows. There are way better videos that people can learn from.
@@gordjohnson-w7u that reads as though you are one of those people who were mislead. Basics are exactly that. Basics. Anyone can watch videos about this but experience isn't gained by watching videos. That requires time in the seat.
@@TheBrushcutter I wasn't mislead at all I have forgotten more about grading than this guy will ever know. I hate when. people make these "basics" videos.He didn't talk about angles ,slope ,scarfing properly ,he doesn't even know where to position his bucket when operating.He wasn't teaching the proper techniques because he doesn't know them himself.Experience is gained in many ways not just seat time. Reading and being taught by experienced people and shown how to do these things properly and safely is how you learn .Seat time will will give you the skill required to do the task, and only if you know what needs to be done and how to do it.
@@gordjohnson-w7u and you may well have but he isn't finished learning. So ease up there Tonto.
Hydraulic top link is extremely helpful with a box blade. I seldom need to adjust the rippers, just adjust the tilt.
Would love to see these (or other) attachments demo'd for lawn maintenance - rut repair, grading, re-topsoiling, etc. Thanks for the demo!
Grading scraper is great at lawn leveling and top dressing a yard.. just did a Property we purchased this past summer.. the grading scrapper holds more material than this guy leads on about.. he honestly doesn't know how to use either of these very well. Neither of them where being used properly for a driveway resufacing ..The landpride ones have forward and reverse blades .. buying the one with adjustable skis is the trick
@@andrewb941 how does one use either to create a crown in the middle so the water falls away?
@@glenlohane-adayinthelife7361 there is an adjustable link on the 3point lifting arm. You shorten or lengthen it so that the implement is tilted in the direction you need to create the slope, or crown in the road.
@Glenlohane - A Day in the Life ... exsactly waht gregg said .. however a crown is not always required for drainage.. a crown will actually make 2 ditches to collect water as the vehicles compact the tire path.. vehiles make thier own crown vis compaction.. every driveway Is also differnt..... the land plane moves material right to left if you actually need a crown a dramatic one is not needed .. ... often a slight grade right or left is sufficient. Depending on the terain .. also.. often the grading along the driveway surface Is the culprit of poor drainage... you want the water to move but you also don't want it moving fast... that causes the washout.. .. easiest way to see what needs done is to go out in a nice rain storm and "read" what the waters movement is doing... it will show you everything you need to know
@@glenlohane-adayinthelife7361use the box blade or an angle blade.
Angle blade is best for pulling material into the roadway to build a crown.
I'm a 30-year Union heavy equipment operator.
It looks like you are not setting the depth of your 3pt. Are you just dropping it to the bottom and letting if float where it wants to for both the boxblad and scraper?
Are you using "Draft Control" or just "Position Control"?
HOW DOES THE GRADER SCRAPER WORK ON DIRT FOR LANDSCAPING PRIOR TO SEEDING?
There is no grader or scraper in this video!
There's a drag box and a land plane.
Lots of people call things by the wrong name, even machinery sales people, sometimes even factories, sometimes even professional heavy equipment operators.
ha! I'm with Leah! Better make a couple more passes :-)
Best thing about this video is watching a semi amateur operator because 90% of the purchasers know less than he does
Lmao!!!
10:28 take your thick pile of gravel and spread it back down the right side of the driveway where it’s mainly dirt, there’s always a use for the top scrapings
Looks to me he took the crown off the driveway; how do you prevent that?
If you had a hydraulic top link, you could have pushed the box grader away from the machine, which then allows the material to spill out under the cutting blade, depending on how much you adjust the top link. Box grader and hydraulic top link go together like hand and glove.
Box blade is must, although a lot of adjustments along the way. Use land plane to finish up an hour or so sooner.
I need a land plane. Well maybe not need but damn sure want.
I also want a hrydrulic rear remote setup up. With remote I may be be able to use box blade more efficiently
Lol!!!
I wouldn't use a landplane if you gave it to me.
@@gregdickerson2957definitely!
Box blade with the top and tilt kit are by far the best setup for grading.
That's what they use on almost every job site for grading driveways and parking lots before paving.
They are very very versatile.
When ur materials gets built up in the box then slowly lift the box up to allow materials to be freed and bladed as it is released under the blade
Very well done video. Concise. Matter of fact. Pleasure to watch.
Though I would add that I've been watching a few videos trying to decide what implement to obtain for our gravel drive. It seems that for that last pot hole it really should have been scarified first then filled in. Otherwise, just filling it will allow it to just come back later. I'm new at this, I could be wrong.
Appreciate the feedback! You are correct, it probably should have been dug out a little first and then smoothed back over. For the video I just did the basics, after the video my brother spent a few hours on the road getting it in tip top shape!
@@kubotaoflynchburg Thank you for the reply, sir. All the best.
Blorph1 if your drive is already established get the grader scraper also known as a landplane. And get one with the scarifiers. Like you said potholes NEED to be ripped up or they WILL come back. I have the LandPride and it works fantastic. I find the box blade is good for moving a lot of material but not good for smoothing out surfaces as you could see how it bounced and undulating as he used it. They like to dig not resurface. And the grader scraper works best when both blades are level with the ground. You can also create a small crown with the scraper.
You are absolutely right!
Scarify and mix thoroughly before smoothing and compacting.
Far too many people push rock into holes and when it rains that rock gets washed out because there's not enough mixed material compacted in there.
@@hagen8745it is neither a grader or a scraper.
A greater is a giant 6 wheel machine and is about 20 ft long with an 8 function blade designed to grade roads and giant parking lots.
A scraper is a giant articulating machine with tires that are about 6 ft tall, scoops up truck loads of material in a single pass to move to another location on the job site.
I really wish people would learn the correct names for things. 🙄
.
I usually go over it several times to get get the best out of it, but the road plane is worth the money if you have much gravel driveway.
No offence.. but maybe you should watch some TH-cam videos on how to use those attachments properly before making a video..then also on how to renew a gravel driveway properly
It looked good to me
You got to remember that he is a salesman
I think he did a good job for a salesman
Hydraulic top link helps a lot for quick adjustments so you’re not digging in.
Hydro top links a must for box blade and you can do anything
You got a link to your video?
My favorite boxblade is a very old rollover type.
Those old rollover box blades give you a box going forward and a box going backwards.
No other box blade on the market does that!
They have been manufactured by several different companies including Gannon.
You simply pull the lever and let it flip over to a different side. 😃
Those have rippers you can stick down in the ground at least a foot deep.
I got one of those a week ago . Waiting for it to dry out so I can use it
Great vid. Also I thought you were great in Memphis Belle
Change the depth of cut of the box-scraper with the top-link. Don't you guys know anything?
You dont want to just dump gravel in pot hole. You need to break up ground to below level of pot hole or it will be back in no time. Need to get rid of the hard surface dish or it will never be smooth road
Great comment Sir. Makes total sense and I never thought of the need to break up the bottom of the pot hole before filling it in and compacting it all back down. I am one of those complete novices watching these videos and reading all of your excellent comments so I don't look like a complete idiot. US Navy Iraq VET trying to earn his keep in retirement, helping three families maintain their driveways next spring. I'm looking to buy a KUBOTA BX to mow lawns, and get a box blade to maintain gravel driveways. Thx!
@InSnomadian04 have family in the US, thanks for your service 👏. Yes without breaking ground up around/below pot hole your just filling a hole which already has hard side (basically a memory) and it will just cause loose new gravel to come out of hole
If you need to refresh your road every year, you need to find the underlying problem. Eiter a larger rock in the base to spread weight out, adjust your grade so it rolls water off the road, raise the road or move water away from the side of the road. We get 30-90 inches of rain a year around here and roads can last 5 years+ if they are done right.
If you dont mind me asking what do your roads usually consist of? I know I did a long driveway with 1-1/2" to 2" stone base with a top layor of 57 Crusher run mixed with 3/8 pea gravel in a 2-1 mix. Been 3 years and still no potholes. I have heard adding stone dust to the top can make it really smooth almost like a road.
Large base rock will ruin road base. You can never keep it from working up and causing trouble. I've heard farmer roadbuilders suggest big rock for base and had a parking lot that I finally had to just haul off and replace with 1 in. Gravel so I could grade it smooth.
@@tlm3574 Depends on several factors. Soil competence of installer, is rock mixed before being laid down?
Set your height on box blade and engage float option on tractor lift links you will then fill low spots and lower high spots
Set the height and engage float is contradictory.
Set levers for self leveling aka draft control
Great video.
Thanks
I know cabota tractors pretty well. In my opinion, that attachment was better scarifiers. Maybe smaller and twice as many scarifiers on the front of the trac, so remove the bucket. Because it's quick attached and attached the box blade on the front.That's where I prefer that to be
You run the box blade so it doesn't pickup or fill on the low spots. Drop it and let it fill on the high spots. When you hit the next low spot, gradually lift and it will evenly spread into the low spot.
If you have some left at the end of your pass, turn sideways and dump it. Pick it back up after you turn the tractor around to go the other way. Again, just drop it back in the low areas.
With the box it looks like you had a nice gravel driveway and made it dirt!
Rule number one: If you are not pulling a full box you are not grading.
You only end up with a full box because you did not properly distribute the material. Adjust the top link to roll the blade back to make it less aggressive and to allow the back blade to work at packing. Or forward to make it more aggressive to move more material. Use your 3 point leveling crank to tilt the box left or right to distribute material for crowning the road etc. Lift the box a little to distribute the box BEFORE you stop.
The only dummy attached to the land plane or the box blade was the operator.
Yeah this guy thinks his shit don’t stink.
Great video. I'm learning on what I need for my field. Question... How does the tiller cope with last year's sticks, and small rocks, and maybe the odd big one. (They keep coming up each time my renter farmer does our land.). I'm hoping to purchase my own equipment in future.
Thanks
If the ground you will be working is going to have a lot of debris in it, I recommend a Forward till tiller. That will allow it to kick the debris out the back, instead of pulling it into itself. Tillers normally do just fine with small rocks and twigs/roots but anything larger than an inch or so can get bound up in it, so just be cautious!
Is it a farming tiller or is it a rototiller?
Either one should not be bothered by roots, sticks or small rocks unless they are large.
how does it compare to a rear blade?
A rear blade is much like a box blade in the fact it can move material, but since it pours out of each side rear blades are almost only for smoothing material, or spreading it out. Also can be used for snow!
Must be a super light box blade if the ripper shanks was keeping the box off the drive way, i sit mine on my 15yr packed drive and they rippers sank like a rock in water. My Mahindra 6’ is 680lbs
a land plane is not a dummy box blade. It's a completely different implement and has its own use.
Thought he was the Dummy
Got that right!
It's a nice boat anchor!!!
Anybody who knows how to use a box blade like professionals on job sites would never touch a landplane!
You will never ever see a land plane on any commercial or industrial job site.
If there was one on a job site everybody would bust a gut laughing their heads off!!!!
@@TF856So you're saying the first implement he used (the box blade) is the one to use and become skilled at, correct? I'm seeing so many different terms for each of these implements, that I'm getting confused lol. Thanks for any help!!
I sold my box blade right after I used my armstrong ag grader. I haven't found anything the box blade does better. I can move a lot of dirt with my grader. If you use the grader right it can drag as much as the box blade, maybe more. I can spin all 4 tires on my 50HP kubota with my 6 foot grader blade when it is digging hard and full of material.
Just bought a brand new LX 4020 to move snow in mountain resort. dealership put howes diesel treatment in it and sold me a bottle to treat diesel because the temp i around 0 degrees F at 10000 feet elevation. I have 17.2 hours on the tractor and the thing won’t start. tried for 3 days finally put 911 in fuel filter and added a little to the tank as per specs. still won’t start. had to tow it through 4 feet of snow 150 yards as the kubota dealership in my area wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor just to drive out to and from my location because i didn’t buy it from them. took it to a kubota dealership in a different state but only 1.5 hours from me. They told me the DPF is completely clogged due to the fuel. SOOO no warranty and no insurance coverage. $12000.00 to fix. the tractor was only $39000.00 WTF! Kubota service and insurance and Sales all suck. They blame it on the other dealerships, no one is taking responsibility for taking care of tractor. Read your manual and warranty and insurance form. If it is fuel related. NO COVERAGE. DONT BUY Kubota! LIARS and Fraudsters. Does anyone have any insight or help here ? Just lost over $20000 on contracts for snow removal. and looks like i wont be getting this tractor back for at least 3 to 4 weeks, even if i pay the extortion money to fix it. and then im sure it will just gel up again and and wont start and will have to go through this all again in another 17 hours. only about 15 total gallons of fuel have gone through this engine 8 of which was put in by the dealer and i only put 12 oz. of howes in the 10 gallons of ulsd i bout from costco. teir one diesel.
It's recommended to have a hydraulic Top and Tilt Kit!
Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy trying to readjust it!
Having the hydraulic operated rippers is also a huge advantage!
He well get it with a lot more seat time and how to set everything up right.
Yeah hydraulic top link is a must on that size tractor. The ram can creep over time though and start throwing out your grade.
@@Ful-OGoldin that case it needs to be repaired or replaced with a better cylinder.
@@Ful-OGoldactually on any sized tractor that is used for grading.
$1900?! I bought a Kubota brand box grader for 1750 and it had blades on both sides, and the sides were 3/8 plate, and the mounting bar for the blades was 1/2 plate.
Those flimsy ones won't last if you hit anything with it.
I'm surprised you didn't go outside the road way with your scraper and pull in the gravel that worked its way outside the road.
Great you explained alot .thank you
I’m getting both!
Now that’s the way to do it!
We all saw the new pile of gravel sitting in that hole that you dragged down the road.
The first thing ng to do is throw away that Land Pride junk attachment!! The ripper teeth holders are cheesy little spring clips that pop out easily during use. I had to paint all my Land Pride teeth neon green so i could walk around and find them after using the attachment.
Is it a Grading scraper or is it a landplane?
Multiple names for the same item! A Grading scraper and a LandPlane are the exact same thing, just depends on who you talk to which name is used. Kind of like a bush hog is also a rotary cutter, brush hog and tough cut mower.
Watch out for that guy creeping up behind you in the bushes!
Why is the box plate more expensive than the scraper? I think it has the same amount of materials and it is not complicated to build comparing to scraper. I think they have even pretty much the same weight.
You are correct, normally a grading scraper is more expensive than the box blade! If we compare the same brand implements, it is that way. LandPride is more expensive than a smaller brand like Titan or Ironcraft.
"If you want to hop in and help, feel free." Lol
I was going to say, the "Land Plane" is probably the single most requested service I get requested.... absolutely the best investment I ever made..... and my LP has the scarifiers as well
I am not at all surprised. Lots of people ask for certain things when they don't know any better.
Land planes are practically useless and they are used by people who don't know how to use a box blade.
@@TF856 wow all the things you could be today and you picked Richard crainium.... good choice Nancy good choice
A box blade is supposed to have an hydraulic top link to be able to adjust the pitch of the blade on the fly. Without it the box blade is not going to perform as it was designed to.
my lx2610 pulls my bb2572 when its full fairly well on level ground.
Iv always had a box blade been hearing more and more about scraper boxes/grader boxes. I am glad I watched this as I will be keeping my box blade when I buy new tractor. The grader looks like a joke. Not impressed how that worked and always only pulls materials to 1 side so if you are grading a hill you can only crown up hill one way. Then have to pull materials down hill for opposite side crown. They should make the rails adjust so you can change the flow of materials to each side of box if needed
The grading scraper isn't level so you'll have issues with this.
Level it out and you'd have greater grip of the gravel on the first pass.
5:13 "Once I do an eight poing turn here"... HAS TO BE AN ODD Number or you will end up going backwards...
My landplane has the rear cutter as well
Maybe you should find someone that actually knows how to use the equipment next time?
I got that impression pretty quick too... plenty of tractor owners who might have done better.
Maybe a good salesman. Maybe not an operator.
Hydraulic 3 point. Very important when box blading.
Professionally speaking it takes more skill to use a boxblade than it does the other, because you can do so many more things with a boxblade than you can with the other.
That's why boxblades are used on so many construction sites!
I totally agree! This is one of the reasons we call the grading scraper the 'Dummy's Box Blade' as it takes very little skill.
@@kubotaoflynchburgLMAO
Actually it takes no skill at all. 😁
For the (Titan) they should put a storage bin on each side for Wt. That instead of storage of Ripper at your feet in the cab floor board. Getting in the way. It's stored on grader support sides. Just my Humble opinion, that manufacturing should think about. STORAGE of equipment that you remove to make the job easy. It's with the grader all the time, even when NOT used. I highly recommend Never just leave rippers on the side of the driveway. It's so easy to forget where you left them on LONG grading jobs. Just my thoughts on equipment storage.
I just flip mine over and re-pin them so they stick up and out of the way..
All he had to do was raise that center one and pin it through the lowest hole. No need to flip it or remove it. It would have been plenty high to not cause a problem.
@@TheBrushcutter he couldn't even be bothered to turn the top link and level anything out..
@@fruitfarmfords8243 yeah, I get that. But it wasn't titled "the pros guide to..." Or "how to use..." This was simply showing the differences between the two implements. And he covered that well enough for this video.
A box blade is not an easy thing to master. You can screw yourself up royally if you're not paying attention to the dips and rises as you drive over them.
Indeed. Whatever you drive over will be translated into the box, unless the box is "floating". Most people, myself included, use a solid top link, but a chain is better for some jobs. And then there are jobs that are best suited for a grader. (motor grader blade, aka "snow pusher".)
From a guy who used a box blade for years I'll throw in my two cents. If you are doing a lot of leveling or if you are maintaining a driveway the land plane is the way to go. If you set your top link correctly a child can maintain a driveway.
As far as scraping you can do it with the front bucket also. Dislike those hst tractors, prefer the old stick shift. And why raise the bucket up so high when moving? Never understood that unless you're moving something long and flimsy, droops.
Neither can ever be more than mediocre as they are rear mounted. it's just simple mechanics. There is good reason road graders have mid mounted blades and dozers have front mount.
It's possible to make one with its own trailing gauge wheels and just use the tractor for pulling (no top link), but I haven't seen any designed like that other than a really big beast for the double-dually tractors, and it needed aux hydraulics to raise and lower.(basically a simple road grader frame minus the engine.)
By the way that thing you (or the manufacturer) is calling a grading scraper is not a grading scaper. it is actually a land-plane which is meant just for smoothing the micro-grade (potholes, burms, mole-hills) stuff generally less than ten feet Though they use big landplanes before planting orchards to make mowing pruning and harvest easier. A grader is used mainly for setting macro-grade, getting things level or smoothing transitions over tens to hundreds of feet (the radius of dip through a valley or rise over a hill) and pretty much requires wheels in front and behind the blade. Dump trucks, dozers, belly scrapers, excavators, and loader buckets for moving bulk material. then a real grader to set the final few inches of grade, then a land plane is a cheap and easy smoothing without disturbing the existing grade too much.
Thank you for bringing up a good point. Where I live it snows and a box blade has very limited use to me . A rear blade is a lot more useful to me in that it works great for snow removal ,a land plane or box blade is useless for that . I have equipped my scraper blade with a set of york rake gauge wheels and for me for gravel ,sand or top soil it works better than anything else . It's also very effective for when it snows and the ground isn't frozen ,much better than snow plow skids.
That’s a start but neither one of them will crown a road properly I use a angle blade to maintain gravel roads .
I've been looking for this comment. We have a property with over a half mile of road to maintain. The angle blade is all we ever used until a few years ago. It is the best for all around, ditching, grading and crowning. The box blade and land plane are good for crown work. But when it comes to building swales or ditching for drainage, don't bother with those. The angle blade is the only way to go.
BOY -- you guys really needed someone with a lot more of on the farm experience - both pieces were being used in a wrong way for best results - I have some xperiences from back to 1980 - and learning the hard way - and learning from mistakes and practices -- is my wheelhorse - some will of course disagree - as always --- box blades - never remove the teeth - or Scarifiers as some may call them - it helps with the balance and finish results - even if they are only kept even - even if you are only moving large amounts of dirt - but especially on gravel - each and every pass it makes it easier to move gravel along the way - that way you never take too much at one time - everybody is always in a hurry to finish - but thats Not the way - repetition is the Key - and moving small amounts is the only way at one time - even with the leveler - repetition is the key - and the teeth will make it more so for moving small amounts in the right places - and with each pass it will loosen just a little more substance to be leveled - the more gravel that becomes loose - the smoother it will become - especially with pot holes or rain ruts - they will be completely removed so that they will take much much longer to reappear - sometime completely removing them all together - all ruts need at least 2 foot of material around them to be conditioned to really be fixed right so that the rocks have some place to equal themselves out and pack correctly so that reappearance does not accrue so easily - some of mine never come back - rain ruts are not so easy to conquer - - A box blade will remove far more material at one time that a leveler - such as large quantities of dirt when leveling yards - -and if used correctly - will make a smooth surface as good as a leveler if used correctly and slowly enough - people are always looking for a quicker and easier way to do anything - even if it doesn't work as good in the long run - Such is Life !
And to think I had been grading roads wrong all this time.
Would be a much better video if it informed viewers on how to properly use the boxblade. This person is totally inexperienced. Grabbing all the material and pulling it all down to the other end is NOT how it's done. Lol. The beauty of the box (when used properly) is that it quickly levels and or grades angles in. After material is dispersed, the box is designed so when it is set to a grade (by lifting and using at set position on 3pt lift), it grabs the high points, then hovers over and disperses the material in the low spots, doing two things at once. This makes quick work of making a perfectly graded area.
Best way to also utilize a box blade is to add hydraulic arm on the upper 3point and one on the lower arm to give you alot more control
Lot’s of armchair experts here in the comments. Wonder why they’re here watching TH-cam and not off making millions with all their mad knowledge 😂. Nice video!
I did make millions off my mad knowledge and retired at 54 so I could be a YT Troll. Anymore smart ass questions?
@TheAmazingHalfBreed mate, firstly, I didn’t ask a question. Literally no questions in my comment. Secondly, I didn’t even address you, have no idea who you even are 😂 find something better to do with your time mate.
@@frikkied2638 Not your mate kind, sorry I don't swing in that jungle,
😂
Long story short . . . I used to be stuck thinking "should I get this or that?" Now I think "I need those". Box blade to move it. Grader to smooth it.
PLUS a hydraulic top link
My kind of guy, rmc!!
Never back up with scarfires down. Your rip the scarfires off the shanks
Either you have really cheap scarifiers or whoever welded the teeth on didn't know how to weld. I reverse often while back blading and have never damaged one of mine. But all my implements are made in America...
Especially the one's I built such as a land plane with quick release ripper bar, grapple, v-blade brush cutting shear and stump pulling rig to name a few.
@@TheBrushcutter
Whelp I bought a LANDPRIDE GS72 FROM THE LOCAL KUBOTA DEALER.
The reason why they were ripped off they were dimpled on the shanks. We found 5 of the 6 and bought more.
Now their welded on. I do agree with you if welded to begin with it wouldn't have been a issue.
@@gregoryhumphries8956 by dimpled I can only guess you mean spot welded? Yeah, that isn't the best method for attaching something that will be abused on the regular. I can see how they would easily be popped off.
@@TheBrushcutter they weren't spot welded either. They were pressed on to the shank. You can go to any LandPride Dealer and see this. They've been welded on and a couple replaced. Actually a shame I paid so much for such a britle piece of equipment.
We grade 4.5 miles of gravel roadway with it.
The road was bombed before that tool. What used to take a month with a grader blade was achieved in a few days. Also brought back years of gravel.
@@gregoryhumphries8956 that is a lot or road! 4.5 miles, minimum 2 passes -1 down, 1 back - if you're lucky. 9 miles at least. Yeah, I can see how you would want the fastest method for sure.
I/m obviously not there. But it appears to me that your top link needs some serious adjustment to have these implements function properly mt friend.
Rear blade would do that job, then turn it around and back drag it smooth.