Joshua, you are a genius, your English is clear and easy to understand for people who don't speak English very well like me. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and wisdom.
For the longest time I actually "made" my own SH connectors by painstakingly crimping on those super tiny metal ends. THEN someone finally released a kit 😍 and I haven't had to crimp since 🥰
Wow, I just built this exact quad with the exact parts and I can't believe how much easier it would have been if I had thought to turn the ESC around. I destroyed an O3 air unit by trying to cram it all in and it shorted on the ESC pads. Also no room for a TPU mount on the rear standoff, I ripped off both antenna leads from the air unit as well. All around it was a mess and cost a lot of money. Live and learn.
I wasn't sure what vid to post this question on. I have your Drone kit edition V2-HD. I am watching the first of the 5 videos. At 11:46 you say to take out the 22 mm screws. I did that. Then you talk about the different size holes on the frame. Then at 12:19 you say 16 mm. I can't find them... did I miss something? Thanks for any help it's my first kit... lol
I see you putting some screws in that don't have much bite, is that something you see as an issue? My quad was not built by me, but they had some motor protectors on them that causes the motors to have very few threads in contact. The build worked fine for awhile until one day I tried pulling out of a loop and the quad just went berzerk and dropped onto our barn roof hard. Searching through the wreckage I am pretty sure that the failure was that the motor screws vibrated out enough for the motor to just yank off the quad mid flight. When I put it back together I removed the motor protectors to give me another 1.5 mm or so of thread contact and then added some loctite for good measure. Have you seen threads back out like this? Is there a general rule of thumb for how many rotations of 'bite' a thread should have for different parts? Is locktite a good idea if you are borderline?
First build video of yours and I winced at you using those flush cut nippers 😂 I use those for plastic models, not copper wire. You can get a forged pair which will be better for cutting wire.
I just did a walksnail build in the vanny frame. its a tight fit for sure. the rear stand off is hard against the VTX. I dont see the point of shaving 2mm here or there when it makes building so difficult. also the stock V shaped single hole camera mount pretty much sucks. all I see is standoffs in my camera and the camera angle changes every time I blink.
I prett much always mount esc 180 deg from fc makes build much cleaner amd i can run 2 capacitor up in front. And also cut cap leads down to little nubs and solder spare motor wire onto them and then heatshrink and conformal coat
I think the F4 stack sells for $71. The F7 stack is more like $121. Still great value though! Personally I'd just use the F4. Great video JB! Your original build videos helped me tremendously when I first got into FPV! Also your soldering tutorial is still the best one out there!
Omg..I had the same exact problem first build with speedybee didn't realize that wire harness was soo short and they only include one. Kakute had longer ones. I always mount my esc to the side.. Anyway I ended up extending the air unit wire.
The o3 works with the remote 2 correct then i wouldnt need a rx and antenna all together ? Im leaning towards that. Do you not use a dji remote 2 for a particular reason?
is the speedybee f405 stack good enough for a 6s build with dji air unit and is there a big difference betrween the f405 stack and the f722 stack you used in this video. thanks for the help
It looks like you ditched the mounts for the 03 Air unit at some point, I didn't seen them at the end of the video. If so, how do you have the 03 Air unit mounted now?
Hi Joshua! I'm complete beginner but I would like to do this build and I have a question what battery should I use for it, I mean what should be the voltage and other staff for 6S battery? Thank you for your time!
Where can I get that bardwell I need one ASAP I’m the definition of that shirt. Built 2 5in freestyle quads An let’s say I’m spent more time flipping my quad over or going to get it than actual flight time. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you are one of the main reasons I got into this hobby Keep it up boss love the content all of your vids ROCK!!!!!!!!
So I bought a avata 2 drone from DJI. Does DJI make parts for custom builds so that I could make my own fpv drone like this and connect it to their goggles and remote control so I don’t have to buy another set of goggles and controller if I were to do my own build?
I like those motors. I have 4 FPV Cycle Glides. Two of them have the Farouk motors and the other two have Hyperlite E 2207.5 2222kv on 6S. The Sbang motors have really nice low to mid throttle resolution but lack on the top end. They are definitely made for quick blips and sudden changes of direction. If you dont fly Sbang they are good for aggressive proximity freestyle.
Ahh.. I had the same problem with the jbf7. The pin headers weren't in the right place for my build. Had to stretch the camera wires and ended up doing a splice job.
Question? Does adding the air unit 03 to my speedybee f405 v3 build allow me to use my dji controller 2 and goggles to operate the drone? The speedybee i have has plug and play for dji air unit
JB - @ 38:55 there is a cut yellow wire protruding from the air unit cable. was that wire unnecessary? Great build - I love the problem solving aspect of any build 😎
Thanks JB for helpful educational content here! I am having trouble sourcing DJI O3 upgrade kit in Australia and really do not want to miss DJI O3 Air Unit. Any replacement I can use for that part only or if you recommend changing the whole frame to something else? Thanks.
@@JoshuaBardwell is this as reliable as the traditional way of remotes bound to an reciver? Because I don't really want to buy another remote if I had started fpv whit a dji kit... Do you know what I mean
Nice Job, JB. I'm just finishing up practically the exact same build to the bolt, except I went with the Speedybee Master HD. I put my capacitor up front, and love the F7 V3. Care to share your tune on her? This is my first build, and I'm on the fourth video of you Betaflight 4.3 mega tutorial since it's the last thing I still need to learn to finish up strong with a full understanding. Thanks so much for everything. This video couldn't have come at a better time
Random but caught my attention felt like sharing. @10:57 a orb is seen floating down ur shirt then takes a left angle. A spirit? Or dust perhaps. Leads me to plant a seed. In the near future we will fly with night vision and then in uv.. I've already caught night anomalies with my dji doing time lapse..interesting to say the least.
Hi Joshua, I have a special problem with a Whoop Drone similar to the AcroBee75 HD O3 DJI/PNP, When you connect the Battery Nothing happens, I order a new Battery Balance it, same issue, I can go the the Flight Controller using Betaflight and I also update the DJI part with the DJI assistant Consumer, still nothing. Can you give me some pointers on how to do some more diagnostics , I will appreciate
I don’t really like the speedybee stack. I had the exact same issues with a quadmula frame. The Esc had to face to the front, then the o3 cable was too short, but I also did not want to run it longer over the Esc. So I got a longer cable between Esc and fc, but then you can not really run it between fc and Esc because there is no room due to the 500 plugs that are soldered and glued to the board. Then I realised that the stack is too tall, I had to cut the silicon grommets and get longer stack screws…. It wasn’t nice.
Why not use the AOS 5 or 5.5 frame? I have all the same hardware, but yet to buy a frame, mainly because of the DJI O3 air unit. Was leaning towards the AOS 5.5. Any suggestions?
i just recently did my first full rebuild, i had a crux35 that killed an esc and/or a motor, so i put a 20x20 mamba stack in it with a rush ultimate vtx and xing2 motors, talk about zero space left lol literally packed full, about 2mm clearance from my vtx and fc lol, i have been really struggling trying to get my head around tuning the thing tho, i put in the stock crux35 pids and im getting ticking motors, i have it sounding a lot better now but it wobbles when i give hard throttle and when i cut throttle it wobbles as if air mode is not on when it is on, the standard crux35 felt so locked in and i just cant get that back, every time i get the tune decent it still does it then i keep going trying to get rid of the wobbles and i just keep making it worse then i end up reverting back to defaults and starting again, im not really sure where im going wrong and i have spent literally 4 days watching pid tuning and filter tuning videos, but i either just cant seem to wrap my head around it very well or their is something wrong somewhere that i just keep missing or dont understand, but its flying decent when im ripping its just when i try to slow down and do smooth lines or flowy freestyle its wobbly asf, but if im in race mode and going flat out everywhere it seems to do ok lol, prop wash is still a little violent when it used to do like a little shimmy now it has a more twitchy feel and sound, if i turn pids down it wobbles worse, if i turn them up it gets more twitchy and unpredictable, same with filters, more filters makes it more wobbly and drunk feeling, then less filters makes it twitchy and unpredictable, i even had it do this crazy flutter when i chopped throttle to 0 it shimmy and started to fly away, it still feels like its on the verge of either doing that or just drunkenly wobbling around
@@BowOneFire its a mamba f405_2022a flight controller with a MPU6500 gyro, it has built in black box and i have blackbox explorer and pid toolbox, and the pre filtered gyro data looks really clean, mostly just motor noise with no real visible vertical resonance spikes that i can identify, but i have to have a bunch of filters on to make it less ticky sounding, i have dynamic lowpass 1 and 2, i have rpm filters, i have the dynamic notch on ant then i have the d term low bypass 1 and 2 and yaw low bypass set to 100hz. Then the sliders are .85 on the gyro and 1 on the d term. from what i can find online i should not need so many filters with rpm filtering on, i purchaced JESC for my bhS esc's so i could enable bidirectional dshot and i find best performance on dshot300. then for my pids i have master multiplyer all the way down to 0.8, most the rest at default except tracking p&i gains at 0.9 and drift wobble I gain at 1.05 to reduce my P & I ratio. anywhere i go from here with any sliders or filter changes makes the quad fly worse, and its not exactly flying very great as it is, although the motors are not getting hot and ticking in this config although i do occasionally get ticking thats only audable from the onboard mic using headphones, during hard cornering where its into its propwash a little bit. some other things to note are i have played around with i term relax but 15 seems to be the best, if i completly disable feed foward like a lot of the tuning guids say to do the quad becomes unflyable so i cant really use pid toolbox traces due to feed foward making it look noisey, and it was a lot worse on the original firmware shipped with the FC so when i updated it to the latest firmware and re configured everything from scratch it became a lot better heaps less ticky motors, but its still not really flying anywhere near as good as the original crux35 BNF that i destroyed lol. Also my frame is in really good condition, i have had a couple of crashes in the last couple of days during tuning but nothing too bad and they were mostly due to the quad doing crazy unexpected things after tuning changes.
That's interesting. It's really frustrating that key details like this are not included on the product page. Whenever I do a video like this, the first thing I do is read up on the products, and this info isn't anywhere that I can find, even though I am now searching for "PTFE" keyword specifically. Rush's own site doesn't have this info.
Hi Joshua! Dont mind my dumb question : I'd like to mount an o3 air unit onto a Mavic drone (exterior case, without dismantling it) to use those dji goggles. Is it possible? What does this air unit needs to transmit data, a battery? Thank you for your time! (I hate the fact that goggles arent compatibile with Mavics)
To use your phrase, the frame seems rather "fiddly" with all the gyrations you had to go through to get everything to fit. The air unit antenna wires seemed to have some pretty tight bends where the u.fl connectors are. I think I would have gone with a slightly longer stack screw and sourced a longer standoff (or use a nylon nut as a spacer with each standoff to raise the top plate) if necessary and even cut the stack screw if needed to give the gummies a little more relief. But I'm kind of picky that way. Would the slightly higher standoff effect flight characteristics at all?
Try hockey stick tape... it's very sticky and super flexible (since my son plays, we always have it in the house..). And the tape comes in CRAZY colors/patterns...
Alien Tape? I'm kind of a glue and tape freak. I'll have to try some of that. Have you ever heard of Joe's Sticky Stuff? Alien tape sounds similar. Joe's is made and marketed mainly for prop and set designers for theater and film production, but it can be used for all kinds of stuff. I love it and use it often.
Higher class screws aren’t always better. You need a certain bolt stretch to make sure the connection stays tight and don’t get loose over time. A higher class bolt can withstand higher tension, but also needs higher torque (creating a higher clamp load) to achieve the desired bolt stretch. Too much load might break the components (carbon fiber frame) if they can’t handle the load. -> a 12.9 screw might break your hardware if torqued to spec, or get loose if not stretched (torqued) enough, so 10.9 might be the better choice
Great build JB! I love Alex’s frame! Also I wanted to say, crazy how good you fly on the HDZero goggle, I found exactly the same myself with the Runcam90! The O3 stuff was really cool to look AT though! :p Development cost more on that motor, not less. It’s a way more durable wire, to resist prop strikes better. It was chosen by Farouk during testing.
Great choice in FC. I absolutely love my 20x20 version. All FC's should be that easy to configure. I don't feel bad about not buying the JB FC after watching this.
hello everyone. Want to ask got my goggles 2 paired to old air unit. but sometimes the video feed just got stuttered no matter the signal strength was. even theres a time when it just unbearably stuttering to the point crasehd it even with Full signal Strength (50Mbps) pls Help, is it just my gogs Faulty or just compatibility issue with old air unit?? thank you in advance.
Cool build! I'm sticking with my qav-s Bardwell and APEX rigs....imo best frames out there. I'm not converting to 03 units it's going to cost me way to much...thanks JB
tried the speedybee F405, the loop is 3.8Khz but I can not feel any diff with my F722 that running at 8k (now set to 4k), Bluetooth Betaflight configurator app is an awesome feature.
Joshua, you are a genius, your English is clear and easy to understand for people who don't speak English very well like me. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and wisdom.
Took about two months for the new dji goggles preorder to come but it's finally here. Who else got theirs this week ?
Vannystyle and the o3 was my first 5” build. It is my daily driver now. I love it!
For the longest time I actually "made" my own SH connectors by painstakingly crimping on those super tiny metal ends. THEN someone finally released a kit 😍 and I haven't had to crimp since 🥰
Wow, I just built this exact quad with the exact parts and I can't believe how much easier it would have been if I had thought to turn the ESC around. I destroyed an O3 air unit by trying to cram it all in and it shorted on the ESC pads. Also no room for a TPU mount on the rear standoff, I ripped off both antenna leads from the air unit as well. All around it was a mess and cost a lot of money. Live and learn.
I wasn't sure what vid to post this question on. I have your Drone kit edition V2-HD. I am watching the first of the 5 videos. At 11:46 you say to take out the 22 mm screws. I did that. Then you talk about the different size holes on the frame. Then at 12:19 you say 16 mm. I can't find them... did I miss something? Thanks for any help it's my first kit... lol
I see you putting some screws in that don't have much bite, is that something you see as an issue? My quad was not built by me, but they had some motor protectors on them that causes the motors to have very few threads in contact. The build worked fine for awhile until one day I tried pulling out of a loop and the quad just went berzerk and dropped onto our barn roof hard. Searching through the wreckage I am pretty sure that the failure was that the motor screws vibrated out enough for the motor to just yank off the quad mid flight.
When I put it back together I removed the motor protectors to give me another 1.5 mm or so of thread contact and then added some loctite for good measure.
Have you seen threads back out like this? Is there a general rule of thumb for how many rotations of 'bite' a thread should have for different parts? Is locktite a good idea if you are borderline?
First build video of yours and I winced at you using those flush cut nippers 😂 I use those for plastic models, not copper wire. You can get a forged pair which will be better for cutting wire.
The last time saw those type of motor wire was the Tyro79, this tell you what type of quality this runs out against.
I just did a walksnail build in the vanny frame. its a tight fit for sure. the rear stand off is hard against the VTX. I dont see the point of shaving 2mm here or there when it makes building so difficult. also the stock V shaped single hole camera mount pretty much sucks. all I see is standoffs in my camera and the camera angle changes every time I blink.
I prett much always mount esc 180 deg from fc makes build much cleaner amd i can run 2 capacitor up in front. And also cut cap leads down to little nubs and solder spare motor wire onto them and then heatshrink and conformal coat
JB, I’m astounded you don’t get bored of this stuff.. unreal.
It's the $$$😄
When you love it. It’s hard to get bored.
Hey Joshua, I finally build it, I have question regarding are there any tutorials how to setup such build in beta flight with DJI controller 2
I think the F4 stack sells for $71. The F7 stack is more like $121. Still great value though! Personally I'd just use the F4. Great video JB! Your original build videos helped me tremendously when I first got into FPV! Also your soldering tutorial is still the best one out there!
Only 3 months? I am liking the obstacles in the yard. Gives your flying more of a race feel.
Omg..I had the same exact problem first build with speedybee didn't realize that wire harness was soo short and they only include one. Kakute had longer ones. I always mount my esc to the side.. Anyway I ended up extending the air unit wire.
What propellers did you use for this build?
Gemfan "juicy" sbang props.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you.
The o3 works with the remote 2 correct then i wouldnt need a rx and antenna all together ? Im leaning towards that. Do you not use a dji remote 2 for a particular reason?
Thanks for the shout out on my 3D print designs, JB :)
Any time!
It is just enjoyable for me to watch somebody build (struggle) a kwad. so relaxing, thank you :)
is the speedybee f405 stack good enough for a 6s build with dji air unit and is there a big difference betrween the f405 stack and the f722 stack you used in this video. thanks for the help
I got that 3rd hand its like 60 bucks but wow did it take all the frustration away thanks Joshua
I ordered that exact stack and it came with the longer fc cable.
Did you cut the yellow wire on 38:54? :)
It looks like you ditched the mounts for the 03 Air unit at some point, I didn't seen them at the end of the video. If so, how do you have the 03 Air unit mounted now?
Hi Joshua!
I'm complete beginner but I would like to do this build and I have a question what battery should I use for it, I mean what should be the voltage and other staff for 6S battery?
Thank you for your time!
I would use a 6s 1100 mAh
Thank you!!!
what if i were to leave the o3 wire under tension like that and also can you get a longer wire for the o3?
I made a very similar build recently with walksnail instead. It's a pain in the ass to setup but it does fly well if you get it right
Where can I get that bardwell I need one ASAP I’m the definition of that shirt. Built 2 5in freestyle quads An let’s say I’m spent more time flipping my quad over or going to get it than actual flight time. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you are one of the main reasons I got into this hobby Keep it up boss love the content all of your vids ROCK!!!!!!!!
Well PLAN YOUR BUILD'S BETTER!!!! , that one got me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
So I bought a avata 2 drone from DJI. Does DJI make parts for custom builds so that I could make my own fpv drone like this and connect it to their goggles and remote control so I don’t have to buy another set of goggles and controller if I were to do my own build?
also am i able to use a tx12 with elrs with a build with the dji air 03 unit if i install a reciever for it on the drone
Stack height is the one complaint I have with the speedybee stack. I wound up ripping off all the sockets to get it thinner.
I did the same!
hi i hope u doin well, do u think i can use this build with fpv controller 3 from DJI?
I like those motors. I have 4 FPV Cycle Glides. Two of them have the Farouk motors and the other two have Hyperlite E 2207.5 2222kv on 6S. The Sbang motors have really nice low to mid throttle resolution but lack on the top end. They are definitely made for quick blips and sudden changes of direction. If you dont fly Sbang they are good for aggressive proximity freestyle.
Ahh.. I had the same problem with the jbf7. The pin headers weren't in the right place for my build. Had to stretch the camera wires and ended up doing a splice job.
Did you try the toilet tank setup first? Or decided not to from the beginning?
I ran into this exact problem last night, probably going to extend the 03 wires to reach the fc.
Same here. I wound up just making my own JST connector
Is the pin out on the speedybee F7 v3 stack the same as the DJI 03 air unit wire, to just plug in no soldering?
Hello thanks for the review, wondering what would you choose as a daily hdzero or 03 dji
Hi Josh,
Why are you using a capacitor with XT60? And why aren’t you using anti-spark?
How does your O3 footage has audio? Doesnt have O3 no mic?
I was wondering the same. Maybe from an additionally action cam
Question? Does adding the air unit 03 to my speedybee f405 v3 build allow me to use my dji controller 2 and goggles to operate the drone? The speedybee i have has plug and play for dji air unit
Yes it does.
What battery’s are you using with this build, I’m thinking of replicating it.
can i use the speedybee f405 stack in a build with the dji 03 air unit?
JB - @ 38:55 there is a cut yellow wire protruding from the air unit cable. was that wire unnecessary?
Great build - I love the problem solving aspect of any build 😎
It's the SBUS wire which I don't need because I'm not using the DJI controller.
Thanks JB for helpful educational content here! I am having trouble sourcing DJI O3 upgrade kit in Australia and really do not want to miss DJI O3 Air Unit. Any replacement I can use for that part only or if you recommend changing the whole frame to something else? Thanks.
I’m thinking about doing my 03 build on a AOS 5.5…still waiting on my goggles from GetFPV, but soon vey soon
Is the o3 air unit included in the kit?
how can we get the dji remote to work with a custom quad? can you maby make a video about it
You would need to install an air unit. Then the DJI FPV remote can bind to the air unit.
@@JoshuaBardwell is this as reliable as the traditional way of remotes bound to an reciver? Because I don't really want to buy another remote if I had started fpv whit a dji kit... Do you know what I mean
The range of the controller is similar to the range of the DJI video link.
Speedybee sends a long wire harness for when rotating esc 180 from fc with all f4 stacks...they didnt sind one w f7?
Kapton also lets heat out vs shrink tube trapping it.
You should turn the air unit around if the wires reach ?
I love these motors but I hate the cables. Still waiting for the 2505.5 from rcinpower.
You’re getting really good dude.
hi josh question on soldering, what solder do you use,?
Nice Job, JB. I'm just finishing up practically the exact same build to the bolt, except I went with the Speedybee Master HD. I put my capacitor up front, and love the F7 V3. Care to share your tune on her? This is my first build, and I'm on the fourth video of you Betaflight 4.3 mega tutorial since it's the last thing I still need to learn to finish up strong with a full understanding. Thanks so much for everything. This video couldn't have come at a better time
where did he get all the 3D print from?
what antenna would use on a v1 air unit\caddix vista with googles 2?
What is the type of the antenna?
linear, RHCP or LHCP ?
Hi there! Thanks for this video! What happened with TPU mount for DJI unit at the end? Double sided tape works better?=)
Can't wait to fly my Vannystyle rotor Riot built quad. Nd great video. 🫡
Random but caught my attention felt like sharing. @10:57 a orb is seen floating down ur shirt then takes a left angle. A spirit? Or dust perhaps. Leads me to plant a seed. In the near future we will fly with night vision and then in uv.. I've already caught night anomalies with my dji doing time lapse..interesting to say the least.
Point out the link location on the phone. I cant seem to find the affiliate links using the phone
The video description is there but YT hides it you have to click "more" to expand it.
Hi Joshua, I have a special problem with a Whoop Drone similar to the AcroBee75 HD O3 DJI/PNP, When you connect the Battery Nothing happens, I order a new Battery Balance it, same issue, I can go the the Flight Controller using Betaflight and I also update the DJI part with the DJI assistant Consumer, still nothing. Can you give me some pointers on how to do some more diagnostics , I will appreciate
Hey! What happened to the red electrical tape for the arms?????
Any benefit to having two capacitors on a build? Is it worth the effort.
I don’t really like the speedybee stack. I had the exact same issues with a quadmula frame. The Esc had to face to the front, then the o3 cable was too short, but I also did not want to run it longer over the Esc. So I got a longer cable between Esc and fc, but then you can not really run it between fc and Esc because there is no room due to the 500 plugs that are soldered and glued to the board. Then I realised that the stack is too tall, I had to cut the silicon grommets and get longer stack screws….
It wasn’t nice.
Amigo , o betaflight não reconhece o controle 2 da DJI , configuração e bind ok na Unit o3
Sabe me dizer uma provável solução ?
Aaand... bought the Omnifixo. DAMN you! 🙂
Isn't plastic insulation more durable to prophits?
Where did you find the wiring diagram for the Happy EP1 rx. ? Joshua
ok wait, how do you know the harness of the screws??
Why not use the AOS 5 or 5.5 frame? I have all the same hardware, but yet to buy a frame, mainly because of the DJI O3 air unit. Was leaning towards the AOS 5.5. Any suggestions?
I don't see the 03 unit mount on the website
stiffer wire might be okay for motors because they train easier. Some PVC wire can be just as heat resistant as silicone, or darn near it.
i just recently did my first full rebuild, i had a crux35 that killed an esc and/or a motor, so i put a 20x20 mamba stack in it with a rush ultimate vtx and xing2 motors, talk about zero space left lol literally packed full, about 2mm clearance from my vtx and fc lol, i have been really struggling trying to get my head around tuning the thing tho, i put in the stock crux35 pids and im getting ticking motors, i have it sounding a lot better now but it wobbles when i give hard throttle and when i cut throttle it wobbles as if air mode is not on when it is on, the standard crux35 felt so locked in and i just cant get that back, every time i get the tune decent it still does it then i keep going trying to get rid of the wobbles and i just keep making it worse then i end up reverting back to defaults and starting again, im not really sure where im going wrong and i have spent literally 4 days watching pid tuning and filter tuning videos, but i either just cant seem to wrap my head around it very well or their is something wrong somewhere that i just keep missing or dont understand, but its flying decent when im ripping its just when i try to slow down and do smooth lines or flowy freestyle its wobbly asf, but if im in race mode and going flat out everywhere it seems to do ok lol, prop wash is still a little violent when it used to do like a little shimmy now it has a more twitchy feel and sound, if i turn pids down it wobbles worse, if i turn them up it gets more twitchy and unpredictable, same with filters, more filters makes it more wobbly and drunk feeling, then less filters makes it twitchy and unpredictable, i even had it do this crazy flutter when i chopped throttle to 0 it shimmy and started to fly away, it still feels like its on the verge of either doing that or just drunkenly wobbling around
Have you looked at the blackbox to see if there is a vibration issue? And also what fc is it? If it has the icm42688p gyro it could cause those issues
@@BowOneFire its a mamba f405_2022a flight controller with a MPU6500 gyro, it has built in black box and i have blackbox explorer and pid toolbox, and the pre filtered gyro data looks really clean, mostly just motor noise with no real visible vertical resonance spikes that i can identify, but i have to have a bunch of filters on to make it less ticky sounding, i have dynamic lowpass 1 and 2, i have rpm filters, i have the dynamic notch on ant then i have the d term low bypass 1 and 2 and yaw low bypass set to 100hz. Then the sliders are .85 on the gyro and 1 on the d term.
from what i can find online i should not need so many filters with rpm filtering on, i purchaced JESC for my bhS esc's so i could enable bidirectional dshot and i find best performance on dshot300.
then for my pids i have master multiplyer all the way down to 0.8, most the rest at default except tracking p&i gains at 0.9 and drift wobble I gain at 1.05 to reduce my P & I ratio.
anywhere i go from here with any sliders or filter changes makes the quad fly worse, and its not exactly flying very great as it is, although the motors are not getting hot and ticking in this config although i do occasionally get ticking thats only audable from the onboard mic using headphones, during hard cornering where its into its propwash a little bit.
some other things to note are i have played around with i term relax but 15 seems to be the best, if i completly disable feed foward like a lot of the tuning guids say to do the quad becomes unflyable so i cant really use pid toolbox traces due to feed foward making it look noisey, and it was a lot worse on the original firmware shipped with the FC so when i updated it to the latest firmware and re configured everything from scratch it became a lot better heaps less ticky motors, but its still not really flying anywhere near as good as the original crux35 BNF that i destroyed lol. Also my frame is in really good condition, i have had a couple of crashes in the last couple of days during tuning but nothing too bad and they were mostly due to the quad doing crazy unexpected things after tuning changes.
@@christhorney that's weird, maybe you should email Joshua Bardwell directly about it
Just my 2 cents, it’s custom PTFE motor wire, it’s lightweight, cut resistant and also heat resistant.
That's interesting. It's really frustrating that key details like this are not included on the product page. Whenever I do a video like this, the first thing I do is read up on the products, and this info isn't anywhere that I can find, even though I am now searching for "PTFE" keyword specifically. Rush's own site doesn't have this info.
I may have missed it but how did you get audio?
It's from the GoPro.
@@JoshuaBardwell ah thanks. On screen you had thet video was coming from the o3 but I missed that you had a GoPro. Thanks for sniffer great video!
Hi Joshua! Dont mind my dumb question : I'd like to mount an o3 air unit onto a Mavic drone (exterior case, without dismantling it) to use those dji goggles. Is it possible? What does this air unit needs to transmit data, a battery?
Thank you for your time!
(I hate the fact that goggles arent compatibile with Mavics)
@joshua great build video but note you’ve got my curiosity through the roof! Odd motor dimensions and would like to know your opinion on them please
how did you get audio from the 03 please?
The audio is from the GoPro.
how much is the drone in total?
To use your phrase, the frame seems rather "fiddly" with all the gyrations you had to go through to get everything to fit. The air unit antenna wires seemed to have some pretty tight bends where the u.fl connectors are. I think I would have gone with a slightly longer stack screw and sourced a longer standoff (or use a nylon nut as a spacer with each standoff to raise the top plate) if necessary and even cut the stack screw if needed to give the gummies a little more relief. But I'm kind of picky that way. Would the slightly higher standoff effect flight characteristics at all?
What's that clip you used to hold the reciever while soldering?
Omnifixo
@@JoshuaBardwell ty
Hey man great video showing how it’s not always easy to make these things fit at times. What was the tape that you used for the Moto wires ??
I asked the same question months ago! It’s called wiring harness tape or cloth tape - you can get it on Amazon and from auto shops.
Try hockey stick tape... it's very sticky and super flexible (since my son plays, we always have it in the house..). And the tape comes in CRAZY colors/patterns...
Alien Tape? I'm kind of a glue and tape freak. I'll have to try some of that. Have you ever heard of Joe's Sticky Stuff? Alien tape sounds similar. Joe's is made and marketed mainly for prop and set designers for theater and film production, but it can be used for all kinds of stuff. I love it and use it often.
How were the motors?
Higher class screws aren’t always better. You need a certain bolt stretch to make sure the connection stays tight and don’t get loose over time. A higher class bolt can withstand higher tension, but also needs higher torque (creating a higher clamp load) to achieve the desired bolt stretch. Too much load might break the components (carbon fiber frame) if they can’t handle the load. -> a 12.9 screw might break your hardware if torqued to spec, or get loose if not stretched (torqued) enough, so 10.9 might be the better choice
Great build JB! I love Alex’s frame! Also I wanted to say, crazy how good you fly on the HDZero goggle, I found exactly the same myself with the Runcam90! The O3 stuff was really cool to look AT though! :p
Development cost more on that motor, not less. It’s a way more durable wire, to resist prop strikes better.
It was chosen by Farouk during testing.
Great choice in FC. I absolutely love my 20x20 version.
All FC's should be that easy to configure.
I don't feel bad about not buying the JB FC after watching this.
And no.. I'm not going to be that 20mm stack guy you speak of.
You like what you like.
No haters. 😉
Anyone know if a 20x20 stack is available for showing o3 unit?
Betaflight configuration ? OSD DJI O3
hello everyone. Want to ask
got my goggles 2 paired to old air unit. but sometimes the video feed just got stuttered no matter the signal strength was. even theres a time when it just unbearably stuttering to the point crasehd it even with Full signal Strength (50Mbps)
pls Help, is it just my gogs Faulty or just compatibility issue with old air unit??
thank you in advance.
Fantastic build and flying, Joshua! 😃
About the plugs, you can always put a small drop of e6000 on them.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Baaahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah lmao
did the 03 prints not work? they weren't on anymore at the end of vid.
They seemed too tight and vanover says he doesn't use them.
I haven’t had any good luck with Speedy Bee stacks.. They don’t seem to be very durable
Can you list all parts
Cool build! I'm sticking with my qav-s Bardwell and APEX rigs....imo best frames out there. I'm not converting to 03 units it's going to cost me way to much...thanks JB
Why no toilet tank?
tried the speedybee F405, the loop is 3.8Khz but I can not feel any diff with my F722 that running at 8k (now set to 4k), Bluetooth Betaflight configurator app is an awesome feature.
We want to meet your family ☺️☺️☺️
Love from Assam,,India 🇮🇳🇮🇳