OMG! 😱 This 3D Printer Hotend is a Nightmare! 🔥
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2023
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Spider Speedy:
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In this video, I'll show you why my new 3D printing hot end will no longer be used by me. I'll explain how it causes print errors. If you're looking for a 3D printer hotend, be be cautious of the creality spider speedy ceramic hot end! It might be the one for you, but it is not the one for me.
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Installed it on my ender 3 v2, had to cut and strip the wires which was the worst part but it worked it flawlessly. Heated up fast and printed without issues. Prints looked better as well compared to the stock hotend. Happy with my purchase.
Glad to hear! Sounds like youre one of the lucky ones :D
Love this video, it highlights the many issues I also have noticed with this hotend.
I've run the same hotend for 2 months. First month went well, now the past 2 weeks, I've been getting random thermal runaway on my modified ender 3 pro. As an electronics enthusiast I have resoldered and measured every connection.
And it seems there's a loose connection that's causing these issues within the ceramic heating block of the device. Given how many people seem to experience similar issues, I'll guess this is a major quality control issue going on right now.
Ill take it one further. This is a 5 month old video and the problem existed then so I think this is a problem that always existed and hasnt been corrected, so I doubt it will be corrected.
I agree, feels like they have zero interest in resolving this issue. I actually took the device apart and could conclude the issue is inside the ceramic heating block.
Will be filing a warranty complaint and hope for the best. Or maybe a refund.
I'm using it right now. It prints very nice,. Printing at 100 mm/s in cura on an ender 3 v2 stock extruder. PErhaps i need to replace it with an orbiter or such to fully extract its potencial?
I grabbed one of these at microcenter. It took a little to fixup my pressure advance . Other than that its been a great replacement for the stock hotend, You just need to go through your extruder config change your hottest temp to the 300c that the hotend is capable of
I have put over 80 hours on this hotend so far printing ....
I think there is manufacturer control issues. When I move I do plan to revisit and test this all over again.
@@ThePrintHouse I did just finish printing an entire voron trident part kit with my hotend after printing some various parts for my other projects
Yet to run into anything SUPER odd maybe I got one out of a more recent batch 🤷♂️
I have had one for a few months and it works well. For one, don't use the steel nozzle it comes with. PLA loves sticking to steel more than it likes sticking to the bed. Secondly it looks like you have selected the wrong thermister in your firmware so the reported temperature is wrong.
I believe the included nozzle is nickel plated copper. It's a Creality MK-HF nozzle.
Wouldn't the MCU disconnect be related to power supply issues or the mainboard being incapable of delivering so much current to the hot-end? If any of those two components are squeezing to power the thing, the MCU will suffer from brownout (lack of energy) and reset causing the klipper to disconnect.
The randomness you described and the fact that the new hot-end is, probably, more potent than the Ender 6 stock leads me to believe that it is a power supply/mainboard issue with the current demands.
I'm trying to think back to this nightmare of events.... I don't know if I checked peak amps driven from the power supply... When I move to a new studio I plan to revisit this hotend and see what I can do. I would be surprised if the power supply isn't good enough though because this is rated to be a drop in replacement for the ender series machines.
People basically stopped talking about this hotend like six weeks after it dropped lol I forgot it existed until I saw the thumbnail to this video. The real issue with creality printers is the extruder. Titan extruder is an upgrade I do on every single printer from day one
for my curiosity, what is the difference between this ho end and the Spider V3 (3.0)? I am looking into upgrading the S1 plus with Klipper, cooling and a new hot end and was leaning towards the Spider 3.0
Honestly I am not 100% sure, but this hotend has the higher flow of the spider line up.
@@ThePrintHouse the "speedy" or the 3.0 has the higher flow?
@@425wester the speedy
@@ThePrintHouse well based off your issues and others, I'll sacrifice a little flow and go with the 3.0 and a .6mm nozzle
Cerâmic heater
Did you use the thermistor supplied with the hotend or did you just use the one from the existing one?
I used both for various tests.
have v3 and it is function like a dream
I was considering this for my ender 6 too. But now not really . What about the previous Spider Pro (v3) model?
The v3 is really nice. Got upto 40 mms3 with a cht clone. I got it on a deal for 14 dollars lol.
That is annoying was planning on picking up one of these, was also planning on picking up a 500 degree hot end as well but I heard it sucked as well.
I have a problem with setting the temperature. PID doesn't help
It does not heat the nozzle during printing.
Still missing 10*C
The standard HOTEND works without any problems.
Spider 4.0 works beautifully except for this E1 temperature error
I believe most MCU disconnect errors are caused when electrical noise gets into the cabling between your printer and raspberry Pi. Specifically a cheap USB cable which runs close or parallel to stepper motor cables or heater cables. Confirming the body of the printer is grounded properly is an easy first step. Next is using a higher quality USB cable with better shielding and ferrites, and keeping it away from other cables as much as possible. The raspberry Pi should be moved away from the printer as well, not put inside or under the enclosure. My guess is the cables from the ceramic heater put out more electrical interference for some reason - maybe they aren't being grounded the same way since the heater is ceramic instead of metallic. But I'd be willing to bet you can make it work with a better USB cable that's routed away from other cables. This is a common issue in industrial settings.
could it be because is not responding to the old PID tune on klipper ? i had those issue when removing the nozzle hot and also klipper says when intalling a new hotend the PID tune needs to be done again.
Trust me that is what I was thinking the problem was, but it wasnt :/
@@ThePrintHouse maybe its the desing of this hotend that is not good.
the heatblock looks like is attached with the heatsink and the heatblock gets cold by temperature tranfer of the heatsink to heatblock cause they still toghetter with the same material, also they added fins to heatblock where is a place that needs a silicon sock for temperature isolation not dissipation like they did and i think is that what cause the problem cause no other hotend brand puts fins on his heating blocks.
Hotend in the K1 causes the same MCU disconnects with the same erratic 5 second to 45 minute timeframes. I have the same "i cant trust any single print to finish" feeling.
What I noticed is that when disassembling the hotend there was next to no TIM applied between the ceramic and the throat and what tiny bit of TIM was there was the driest most crumbly awful bit of TIM I have ever seen.
This causes the ceramic element to have to heat way too hot for way too long to keep the nozzle at temp. Its operating inefficiently because not enough of the heat being generated is moving to the thermal mass of the throat and nozzle. Eventually this causes the heating element to burn up but it also causes the inexplicable "I'm pumping so many watts into this heater and the nozzle isnt responding quickly enough wtf is going on" errors that I believe cause the disconnects.
Im very curious to see if you disassemble these hotends and reapply TIM properly what sort of results you have, presuming the heating elements havent burnt up too badly.
Incredibly detailed and helpful comment. Thank you. I'm incredibly packed with projects but I really want to try this. Not sure if I'll be able to squeeze it in but I'll try. What TIM do you recommend and did you have any significant issues taking the hot ends apart. If they're burned up is it obvious? Do you have any tips or video to share that can help me identify if they're long gone and burned up?
more on ths pleaseeeeee
i bought this hot end about 5 days ago i think, and i am so sad it is going to turn out like this.
Just installed this on my printer and its been a pain in the ass. Won't heat past 185 C and eventually errors out. Thought it would be eventually less work than my Micro Swiss that I was getting annoyed with. I had updated the firmware etc still no go. Hoping Creality will replace it or refund it. Hoping I can get one to work.
I find that I have to run a PID before I change temperatures--or else run a PID to the highest temperature that I plan to print at. I noticed that the temperature would rocket up to 10 degrees below target, then stop to avoid overshooting. It would waver at around 10 below target... and then eventually make it past this threshold and reach target temp. UNLESS, that is, Marlin's heating watchdog timed out, and reported a thermal error before the "waiting/stabilizing" period was over. There are probably ways to modify the PID tuning parameters to avoid this "fear of overshoot" or extend the watchdog timer, but I haven't figured that out yet. I'd really like to eliminate the waiting period, as it obviates the Spider's fast initial heat-up.
My main problems with the Speedy Spider at this point seem to stem from its unusual full-length heat sink. I use a Petsfang duct, and with the teensy sock, the increased airflow seems to cool the hotend. In fact, when the silicone sock became dislodged, the nozzle dropped below flow temperature, and the extruder started grinding PLA! I replaced the sock with a tiny slice of silicone tubing--Creality, please give us replacement socks!--and the filament started flowing normally. However, I still have some layer adhesion issues, AND the tips of my PETG Petsfang duct got too hot at some point and melted!
I've just had some much more successful prints at a .12mm layer height (I usually use .20), so maybe that's the solution for my set-up, but I think a more conventional hot end sock would help "keep the hot side hot and the cool side cool," to quote a decades-old McDonald's ad.
The smarts for the hotend is a heater and a thermistor. It doesn't get simpler than that. This is a klipper bug. Kilpper is throwing a totally unhelpful error code and you're blaming creality.
Klipper needs to be fixed to tell you if it was the thermistor or the heater element that it doesn't like.
I'm glad I watched this. I was just about to order one of these hotends. I'll be looking for something else instead. Thank you for the video.
I got my mine today. I installed it. Began heat to purge...went to temp then died. Would not reheat - Period. Immediate return.
**EDIT UPDATE**
I have installed a Spider v2 with a 60w 24v heater. AMAZING results. I can only guess it will get better with Direct Drive.
If you try this ensure to run a PID temp calibration, I just wrote in notepade turned into a .stl and ran on printer, worked well.
Yeaaaaaaah seems about right to me. Im not sure whats up with this hotend. Either manufacturing process is bad or the actual product is bad. Im not sure.
@@ThePrintHouse Mate I am looking for something for my ender 6 (Stock), Can you pls point me in the right direction? This has broken my heart! I am in Australia so ordering from Ali whatever is no issue.
@@nickoblicko7046 are you looking for an upgrade or just a new stock hot end?
@@ThePrintHouse A upgraded hotend. I am focused on PETG as it is usable for my needs. Where I live PLA turns to a puddle during summer if not kept in the fridge. I have seen a few getting around but the deeper I dig the more confused I get. As it sits the printer is Ender 6 stock, I have had some epic results but need the full metal hotend for the petg. Thanks for your reply also, much appreciated.
@@nickoblicko7046 Well, to be honest, your best bet is to use the stock hot end. There are not enough ender 6 mods readily available that are easy to do. I print PETG on PTFE lined hot ends very regularly. I just have to replace the PTFE every 250 - 350 hours of print time. As for Replacements, honestly because there are so few bolt on upgrades for the ender 6, I cannot recommend anything specific. If youre dead set on all metal hot end, I am almost more inclined to recommend you sell the ender 6 and buy something cheap like the ankermake m5c or some other new creality ender 3 variant that has an all metal preinstalled. You can look into the sprite extruder, I think someone did that upgrade for the ender 6 but I dont think it is heavily documented.
you neeed to bring down the retraction distance\
You needed to bring down the retraction distance to 5 and do your pod tuning.
I didn't have the chance to calibrate anything here haha
i bet the hotend has a wireing problem 99% it shorts the main bord and bammm klipper no power quality control !!!!!!
I fixed that by re connecting the thermistor connections they suckkk
I reconnected everything MANY times.
@@ThePrintHouse have you tried splicing the wires?
How can you spend 40-50 hours on a defective hot end. 😂
I spent 10 hours debugging, designing, iterating on design, fan flow analysis, and printing a fully custom fan shroud in order to have this hot end actually fit inside of the ender 6. Then about 1-3 hours rewiring the printer and hot end. Then another 1-2 hours settings up the printer config file for the hotend + new bl touch mount. Then SIGNIFICANT issues with clogging that first took up 5-10 hours. All to find out a hardened steel nozzle installed from factory. Incredibly low flow rate causing immediate clogs. I was dealing with that issues in parallel to the MCU disconnects so half the time I tried to fix the clogging I had disconnects. In parallel with those issues and while I was attempting to create a refined cura speed profile I was dealing with the completely unrelated (to the hotend) issue of cura 5.3 bugs causing ugly blobs on models which nullified every slicer modification I made. When I began to tackle the mcu disconnects I had 5 hours of research spread across the last 2 months. I spent 3-5 hours FULLY rewiring the ENTRIRE ender 6. I wired in new motors. I checked for EMI on nearly every E6 component because of the brand new rewiring in case that was causing something to cause a hardware shutdown causing MCU disconnect. I discussed the issue with many other people across multiple different posts on reddit, emails, as well as in person meetings. More rewiring when I resoldered components to check for bad soldering joints. More rewiring when I attempted to install a brand new unit to check for factory defects. Honestly the list goes on. The hours add up. I tried to hard to make this hot end functional, but across multiple units it simply wasn't. I wish I could give you more examples of things I tested, but I dont think you really care. Youre only here to troll :/
I too someone who will spend hundreds of hours potentially trying to make something work.. It's pretty synonymous with ADHD hyperfocus...
On my Ender 5S1 that was defective I spent at least 150 hours trying to fix and documenting all the problems with the machine. I lost a lot of sleep for no good reason other than that's what my ADHD called me to do...
I have a feeling the presenter also could not sleep and just had to try to fix this as much as possible. Just want to let you know dude, thanks, and it's not your fault, Good work
I am back... and I am here to say I have spent 120 hours of
my time working through a hotend issue, triangle labs CHC Pro Hotend with Klipper.
Having same issues.
You've got a post on Facebook about two printers . Is this you or a scammer
Scrap the mustache and beard!
That's good advice for most men.
I had a bit in the video about that then it got removed due to length constraints 😂
I bought two of these and I can’t get either one to print without getting clogged.
Are you using PETG? I noticed that any PETG left in after a print will quickly cement itself in the heartbreak, heating the nozzle to max doesn't transfer sufficient heat into the heat break to melt it later; I had to use a butane torch on needles to clear the jam. Running extremely low retractions to avoid jams during the prints.
On the plus side I haven't noticed much jamming when running the PLA, The Spider 3 a lot more plug N play friendly, just unfortunate it has a delicate thermistor that can't be replaced . At least it looks like Creality added protections for the wiring on this model, though why they insist on an unreplaceable part there still is beyond me.