Helpful tip. If the left signal or angel light or adaptive headlight generate errors, the water has impacted the TMS module under the light. You can remove the wheel and cover in the wheel well to replace it. $60 on Amazon for a 2012 535i. It does require resetting with an Autel unit but it’s really easy.
Cause of the condensation is the butylrubber seal between the lens and the housing that's old and starts letting water through. Using a hairdryer will only work untill the next wash or rain. There's only 2 fixes for this: 1. Replacement of the lens (pain in the a@$) but definately doable and a lot cheaper than 2. Buying a new headlight. A quick fix is to remove the headlight and put sealant between the lens and housing. That 'll hold for some more months.
I need help, Just got my right headlight replaced and it becomes foggy inside, whereas the older headlight is completely fine, took it back to the dealer but they are assholes, they are calling it normal, if it was normal then why isnt my old headlight having the same issue.
Hi Simon, you right. Even BMW know about it. I had a recall for EGR parts but they should really think to do recall for all the cars starting 2010 to fix condensation in the headlights
this is just the moment solution,not ok, because the lens is unglued in the upper area near the turn signal, the water will enter again and it will steam. You will have to glue the glass in that area, since it is glossy to separate the silicone from the lens, I used a liquid glue solution and inserted it between the lens and the silicone.After it has been glued, heat the area and stuff butyl between the housing and the lens.
Hello. I have tried the exact steps you took but it still has condensation. Did replacing the cap help? I've got a feeling slamming the hood down puts pressure on the very far corner where your condensation is, and eventually cracks along the seam. Taking the bumper off seems like too much of a bother but I get coating the entire corder with rubber would seal the leak. Thoughts?
If you remove the high beam bulb and the indicator bulb and you use a hairdryer, you should be able to get rid of most of the condensation. I dont know if the bonnet puts pressure and cracks the headlight but ising sealant in that area sounds like a good idea. If it works, great, if not, you have not damaged anything and not wasted too much time.
@@hosuandreiremus Thanks for the reply. I find taking the cover off and driving for an hour clears it up. But if it is cold out, the water appears in the farthest corner. I’m sure that is where there is an air leak. It’s too much work to take out the unit.
This video has no sense at all. Its a waist of time. Before make a video do some research. To remove headlight u need to remove bumper,inner fenders. You also missed couple bolts that holding headlight. And to fix the fog you need to get seal or silicone whole headlight where clear plastic attaches black. What a waist man 👨
Mines the same the cap is fixed so can’t remove it, I used a heat gun and it worked a treat but the condensation came straight back so I’m having a rethink
So how I fixed my problem sorta: I took of how in this video for a bmw f10 the cap that goes on top of the headlight and I drive without it now and my headlight is clear and working fine! I think only for winter I will drive with it if Becasue idk what’s wrong with it but at least my lights work and don’t look broke driving around with a watered up headlight and not working. Now the reason I said kinda is Becasue on my dash the headlight still says only this time “aim control malfunction” idk how to really get rid of that but atleats my high and low and angel eyes work so yeah and oh btw it took about 3 days with the caps of to fully clear the headlight so there you go
Aim control or other fault messages can be caused by moisture/water in the Headlight TMS module. Follow this video to remove the Headlight TMS module. th-cam.com/video/uP4dxdfwldY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ClassicAutoLtd. Check the TMS module for water damage, if it looks ok, dry it out with a heat gun or hairdryer., and also dry out the area of the headlight where the TMS is fitted, put some contact cleaner on the connectors, and put it back together. Hopefully the TMS module is ok and the fault(s) will clear. If not you may need a new TMS module, but replacements are not too expensive.
It did come back. i took off the cover thetgives you access to the light bulb, and that seemed to eliminate the condensation. Not the best solution as you can have bugs and debris going inside the headlight. but better than paying for a new headlight
If you usingif you use a hairdryer to heat the headlights, in a couple of months the headlight glass will crack to the point that you will have to replace the headlight glass. I speak from my experience
@@totophandhamaly9944 I used a home hair dryer that has temperature regulation, so there's no way I overheated it. In many videos I have seen people use professional dryers that reach a much higher temperature than a home hair dryer.
Yup. Condensation is back. I removed the cpver for the bulb replacement and that reduces the condensation. At the moment I dont plan to replace the seal or the headlight.
I have the same problem with my F10. But with my headlight it's extremely, completely damp inside, shit ..! Don't know what to do, a new headlight is way too expensive
I have the same problem with my F07. It happened couple of months ago after the car was washed. Never had any issues before. It’s been a dam season and no time to investigate but hopefully by watching yours and other peoples’ videos can figure out the best possible way to resolve the issue (or at least to get through the cold season). Thanks for sharing it anyway.
the circular cap, leave it off put the top flap back on to prevent anything from getting in there and it works. it worked for me
Helpful tip. If the left signal or angel light or adaptive headlight generate errors, the water has impacted the TMS module under the light. You can remove the wheel and cover in the wheel
well to replace it. $60 on Amazon for a 2012 535i. It does require resetting with an Autel unit but it’s really easy.
I thought it would be more expensive than that. Any idea if you can program the module using an OBD2 and a mobile app?
Cause of the condensation is the butylrubber seal between the lens and the housing that's old and starts letting water through. Using a hairdryer will only work untill the next wash or rain. There's only 2 fixes for this: 1. Replacement of the lens (pain in the a@$) but definately doable and a lot cheaper than 2. Buying a new headlight. A quick fix is to remove the headlight and put sealant between the lens and housing. That 'll hold for some more months.
I need help, Just got my right headlight replaced and it becomes foggy inside, whereas the older headlight is completely fine, took it back to the dealer but they are assholes, they are calling it normal, if it was normal then why isnt my old headlight having the same issue.
I have the same problem with my BMW F20 2018. Unfortunately it's a known issue with bmw. It can not be solved and even bmw know about this problem
Hi Simon, you right. Even BMW know about it. I had a recall for EGR parts but they should really think to do recall for all the cars starting 2010 to fix condensation in the headlights
There is also a back cover behind the headlight that van become lose overtime
Did you find that helped? Do you mean the large round black cap on top, under the folding door?
@@gutnick under the folding door
@@cerberus82 Did you replace the cap? Did that solve the problem?
this is just the moment solution,not ok, because the lens is unglued in the upper area near the turn signal, the water will enter again and it will steam. You will have to glue the glass in that area, since it is glossy to separate the silicone from the lens, I used a liquid glue solution and inserted it between the lens and the silicone.After it has been glued, heat the area and stuff butyl between the housing and the lens.
Having the same problem thanks for the video
Hello. I have tried the exact steps you took but it still has condensation. Did replacing the cap help? I've got a feeling slamming the hood down puts pressure on the very far corner where your condensation is, and eventually cracks along the seam. Taking the bumper off seems like too much of a bother but I get coating the entire corder with rubber would seal the leak. Thoughts?
If you remove the high beam bulb and the indicator bulb and you use a hairdryer, you should be able to get rid of most of the condensation. I dont know if the bonnet puts pressure and cracks the headlight but ising sealant in that area sounds like a good idea. If it works, great, if not, you have not damaged anything and not wasted too much time.
@@hosuandreiremus Thanks for the reply. I find taking the cover off and driving for an hour clears it up. But if it is cold out, the water appears in the farthest corner. I’m sure that is where there is an air leak. It’s too much work to take out the unit.
Its imposible to get rid of condensation on these models
@@Twinturbo_how did you do
This video has no sense at all. Its a waist of time. Before make a video do some research. To remove headlight u need to remove bumper,inner fenders. You also missed couple bolts that holding headlight. And to fix the fog you need to get seal or silicone whole headlight where clear plastic attaches black. What a waist man 👨
Mine doesn't have the cover that you used to open the headlight and place the hair dryer there. It is impossible to open, or is sealed, any ideas?
Mines the same the cap is fixed so can’t remove it, I used a heat gun and it worked a treat but the condensation came straight back so I’m having a rethink
So how I fixed my problem sorta: I took of how in this video for a bmw f10 the cap that goes on top of the headlight and I drive without it now and my headlight is clear and working fine! I think only for winter I will drive with it if Becasue idk what’s wrong with it but at least my lights work and don’t look broke driving around with a watered up headlight and not working. Now the reason I said kinda is Becasue on my dash the headlight still says only this time “aim control malfunction” idk how to really get rid of that but atleats my high and low and angel eyes work so yeah and oh btw it took about 3 days with the caps of to fully clear the headlight so there you go
I ended up doing the same. I could not seal the headlight so I decided to let it air out.
@@hosuandreiremus what if its rainy ? are you not scared that some water will go in it ?
@@lukeeKkkkk there is already water in there from condensation. I just had to try and clear the lense a bit.
Aim control or other fault messages can be caused by moisture/water in the Headlight TMS module. Follow this video to remove the Headlight TMS module. th-cam.com/video/uP4dxdfwldY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ClassicAutoLtd. Check the TMS module for water damage, if it looks ok, dry it out with a heat gun or hairdryer., and also dry out the area of the headlight where the TMS is fitted, put some contact cleaner on the connectors, and put it back together. Hopefully the TMS module is ok and the fault(s) will clear. If not you may need a new TMS module, but replacements are not too expensive.
So did the condensation come back? I have this issue on a car I have just brought
It did come back. i took off the cover thetgives you access to the light bulb, and that seemed to eliminate the condensation. Not the best solution as you can have bugs and debris going inside the headlight. but better than paying for a new headlight
If you usingif you use a hairdryer to heat the headlights, in a couple of months the headlight glass will crack to the point that you will have to replace the headlight glass. I speak from my experience
Maybe because you over heated or the lens for it to have cracked like that
@@totophandhamaly9944 I used a home hair dryer that has temperature regulation, so there's no way I overheated it. In many videos I have seen people use professional dryers that reach a much higher temperature than a home hair dryer.
@@ThirthyDollarPants You mean a heat gun,damn that sucks
That much experience not to know that's the "Glass" is actually plastic!!
The only fix is replacing the seal on the lens to the housing OR replacing the headlight
Yup. Condensation is back. I removed the cpver for the bulb replacement and that reduces the condensation. At the moment I dont plan to replace the seal or the headlight.
Condensation will come back. Did u fix the reoccurrence of the issue?
Condensation is back. Will have to remove the headlight and find out how water is making it's way in.
Absolutely and we still have not found the entrance for the water coming in
Blew the whole unit
I have the same problem with my F10. But with my headlight it's extremely, completely damp inside, shit ..! Don't know what to do, a new headlight is way too expensive
I have the same problem with my F07. It happened couple of months ago after the car was washed. Never had any issues before. It’s been a dam season and no time to investigate but hopefully by watching yours and other peoples’ videos can figure out the best possible way to resolve the issue (or at least to get through the cold season). Thanks for sharing it anyway.
@@38OsmanliTorunu71 my entire headlight as well trying to figure out options
Hello,did u fix the problem?,because i have the same condensation.
👍👍👍👍👍
Nincs megoldva a problema.
You have not resolved the problem, you have only delayed its solution. Dislike (