Hay Scott..I don't do full scale hydro but have built a older hewey hydro foam sponsons built for electric...I do watch your boat builds your set ups ex awesome man..your boats look hi class bud...and the fact you work with the big real hydro..awesome..love it..pit tours ex...love it man..thanks..your the man...first class all the way...again thanks for your videos you share..
In the process of formlating a build from your video series and thinking completing the build as an electric. can you post what motor, ecs and batteries you recondment that you used?
Nope, because I don't know. I'm a nitro and gas guy, and all the parts for my electric conversion came from Rattlesnake RC who commissioned the project. Most of it was older stuff anyway. Bill at Rattlesnake would be a better resource for electric boat advise and parts. Find him here www.allrc1.com
I’m a little late to the game here, but I kinda got a chuckle out of the guy in boots throwing the hydro like a nitro boat, it’s ok to just plop the boat in the water, it’ll move out all on it’s own I promise. Electric is awesome for people like me with little patience, no I’m not a pediatrician, I just like the idea of turning my boat off putting it on a shelf till next year, charge, turn it on and away you go 👍. I do see that this is a very well hand crafted boat and maintenance is paramount of course but the electric motors can’t be beat for durability, longevity and the power is near limitless. Have fun folks!!!
Nice and clean build, Mr Meyers! But... what a huge space inside the hull as compared to my Hydro-1-Naviga competition outriggers. I really have to piece ESC, motor, servo, cables, connectors and watercooling-hoses in. Can be a headache sometimes :-). Now, let's answer your question: it runs too wet, too much prop in the water too. It can be caused by the water-condition (very calm, these boats benefit from more choppy waters), but getting the transom from the water will improve efficiency dramatically.
The Master! Thanks again Scott. With electric boats, helis and rc cars, I stopped using velcro in extreme speed situations or anywhere water might get at it. I prefer shoo goo for mounting electronics. Cooling line tab mounts are cool.
Quick question, Scott. When it comes to water pick up...which is better? Rudder pick up, transom-mounted beveled brass tubing, or perhaps a hull-embedded beveled brass tubing? THanks
Depends.... A hydro spends most of it's time in the air so any shallow water pickup will only pick up air! This is why you have holes as low as possible on the rudder blade. The beveled tubing or tapered transom pick-up will only work on a wetted hull like a cat or offshore
This boat came in just over 11 pounds. Electronics fit competition specs for the RC Unlimited racing series. Go here and view the 8th scale electric rules to get the details www.rcunlimiteds.com/rulebook
I like those 90 Deg angle motor connectors ! Where are the from ? And what ESC and Rudder Servo is that ? Thanks! P.S. I can think of one good reason to put the "loopy" stuff in the boat as the "fuzzy" stuff can get "contaminated/ used " over time so when you change the Battery, you obviously would use new fuzzy stuff ! voila ! (I am a genius - I think LOL)
Heck man, I don't know what the parts are. The conversion was commissioned by the boat's new owner and he supplied all the parts... Bill at Rattlesnake RC. You can find him here www.allrc1.com
Scott , why double the voltage from 12 to 24 Volt with the batteries, why not run them in series at 12 volts, with 24 v do you get more rev's/torque ??.Phil
Very very cool machine there Scott. It's a beast. I had a guy make me a fiberglass R42 eventually. He's also a gas guy. He was blown away at the speed of the electric motor I put in on just 6s. We also started with a small prop... 60mm. Going to try a 75mm tomorrow.
Hi Scott, loving these videos from Somerset in the UK where I’m building my 1/8 hydroplane. Quick question: what main batteries are you using (capacity & discharge)?
I'm really just a nitro and gas guy. All the parts used in my nitro to electric conversion series were provided by Rattlesnake RC, and I don't recall what the specs were. Bill is super helpful and I'm sure he could tell you what was used. You can message him through his website here www.allrc1.com
No.. not a dork. If you had a production manager, executive producer, and Jaxon Brown did not have to go the vet , you would have got that detail. What you have done is greatly appreciated by us old "F#*rts" that do not have the were with all (or i-phone smarts) to present such information. Thanks for what you have accomplished. Again, highly appreciated. Keep up the good fight. Dave K.
WOW you did a nice job on the epoxy on that . I want to get into boats cause a day after my birthday 2019 mar 29 I had a mild stroke. And now I'm going blind in my right eye. Cant fly much anymore. Would love to own that boat help me build one eric b out
Hey Scott, Any ideas how to ensure the boat can "right" itself in case of a flip over? I know you might say, don't let it flip over in the first place....but is there are self-righting maneuver or trick?
The short answer is no. The longer answer is that there are self-righting hulls available, but in scale hydro racing the boats must be close replicas of the full size boats with no additional features. As such they are just as happy floating upside down as they are floating upright. So..... Don't flip!
You know, I forgot to video when I weighed it! The finished electric version was 6oz heavier, which was very disappointing. But.... Watch for a new video coming soon that will show my efforts to solve that problem!
Do you have the plans for that boat I'd like to build that. I've been building aircraft for a long time just getting into boats my first boat is a .67 11cc prather pirahna.
When some of the guys first started building electric scales here in the NW we ran them heads-up with the nitro's for a couple years. I used to take pride in never losing to one, but they've gotten so much faster now that I don't think the nitro's could keep up unless the electrics were limited. Even now that the electrics run in a separate class we do limit the diameter of the props just to keep them at sane speeds!
what size motor are you running and what is approx boat length and with im building my first hydro aprox 45" long just curious what need for a motor thanks
The boat dimensions, motor, and batteries are spec as required under our racing rules. The boat is 43" long and uses 8s batteries. Here are the motor rules copied from the rulebook; * Approved motors: i. NEU 1527 1.5Y 850KV ii. HET Typhoon 700-98 840KV iii. Turnigy SK3-3994 850KV iv. TP 4040 10Y 830KV v. TP 4060 6Y 860KV 1. Approved as a test motor for 2020. b. Motors not on the approved motor list: i. Shall not exceed the manufacturer’s KV rating of 860 KV. 1. If the motor case is not clear marked with the manufacturer’s KV rating, the owner should be prepared to provide documentation of the maximum KV rating of the motor. ii. May not have a motor case exceeding the following dimensions: 1. Length: 105 mm (4.134 in.), this includes any bearing protrusions. 2. Diameter: 42 mm (1.654 in.).
why are rc race boats always running in an clockwise direction instead of counter-clockwise like their full size counterparts? Is it because of the directions of the motors where torque direction helps them in the turn? Just an guess.
@@M5PerfHydros OK Thank You for that. I've been in the rc aircraft business since 1982 but never had an rc hydro which im hoping to get into soon so i assumed the direction of travel has something to do with the motors. I would like to go with an 1/8 scale hydro kit and build it myself or one of the fiberglass kits by rcboatcompany or some other manufacturer out there and i could build one nice boat. I also have an set of plans to build an 1/8 scale "Pay' N Pak" but im confused on what i would actually need for all the hardware to get it going not being familiar with all the parts and types of electric motors, mounts and stuffings tubes and prop shafts. This is the style of hull i would like to have. www.newtonmarine.com/plan_details.php?prodId=443&category=5 ============================= th-cam.com/video/b9UH5pF1pD0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for your reply... Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and an safe and Happy New Year!. ~A~
I got you covered Alan! Get one of the awesome kits from MLBoatworks here; mlboatworksrc.com/shop/ols/products/1-slash-8th-scale-newton-166-slash-mhr-9601-kit And then contact Bill at Rattlesnake RC for all the hardware! www.allrc1.com/
We don't run endurance races. We have a short milling period with five lap races. Still plenty of power at the end of each race, but I have no idea how much longer they might run
Awesome man. Its always hard to sell something you put all that time in.Well I'm sure it went to.a good home.congrats on a successful conversion. Awesome 👍
Originally it was thought that more weight over the turn fin would help, but the idea was dropped in later designs. I believe the opposite is helpful in model boats where a bit more weight to the outside sponson helps counter prop torque
Definitely looks to me like it's running too "downhill" at the end there, I'd say raise the strut. Not sure on props. I'm not anywhere close to an expert though haha
Is there a chance you could do a start to finish series that shows all steps for beginners. Example, ML Boatworks kits are great, but the bottom of boat hull is wider than wood so how do you fill seams, and do you run seams front to back, or side to side? And hydros with hull that bends up. Cut wood, or bend? And so on Remember this, kids today don't have shop class and most don't have dads.
That's a good idea, and I've actually thought about doing that. Problem is I don't build from kits anymore as I prefer to design my own, but maybe I'll talk to Mike at MLBoatworks to see if he'll sponsor the project. Meanwhile... If the wood you have isn't wide enough you've got the wrong stuff! You should never have to splice the bottom! Check out Balsa USA or Aircraft Spruce online and you'll find much larger sheets. Grain should always be front to rear with the only exception being the front most piece of the sponson bottoms where it curves up sharply. This section needs side to side grain so it'll curve more easily. For the floor designs that angle upward, your guess is as good as mine! I've run boats with a defined sharp break and boats with a curved floor and both work fine. Which is best? Heck I don't know. Build one each way and find out!
@@M5PerfHydros well he I am about to show my dumbness. So I have a kit, and the flat hull portion of the boat according to the #4 rib and transom, ir 14" between the down cut for the sponsor side. I can not find plywood that is 1/8 X 14 X 48 to do the hull in one piece. So, what am I not understanding?
I'm glad you couldn't find it! Crikey if you use 1/8" ply to skin the thing it's gonna weigh 25 pounds! Ok here's the thing... You're gonna use 1mm (1/32") Finnish birch to skin the top deck, and 1.5mm (1/16") for all the bottom surfaces. Go here, scroll down, and click 'half sheet' for the 1.5mm stuff; www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php
I like your videos 👍😃 but maybe you could build a big v hull boat ? The reason is i lookt at your videos is that im going to build an MMPoduckts Watersnake twin tp 5850 1000kv with arrowshark arneson twin x-blade drive, (and im in over my head ) so thanks for all og your videos ! They are greit
Thanks! I'm a hydro guy so probably won't be doing any v-hulls soon, but you never know! Hey, why don't you shoot some video of your build? Maybe YOU could help others figure it out!
Scott, I really enjoy your videos and get a lot out of them. Question: What is the little black bundle attached to the ESC by a red and black wire just under the capacitors? In this video it has a yellow zip tie around it. Thanks.
Hmm... Truth is I don't know for sure as it was a used esc that I got from Bill Brandt who commissioned the conversion and bought the boat from me. As I understood it, it's an earlier version that came like that and the later ones do not. Still... I could be wrong (no surprise here!). Bill could shoot you straight on everything related to the electrics. You can get him through his website at www.allrc1.com
In one of the early on video's you weighed the Eliminator prior to "de-construction". The reading on the scale was 11.3 lbs. (thats 11 pounds 4.8 oz.) Now that the transformation is complete, how much does the "Electro Eliminator" weigh ? Also if you happen to know, is there much difference in prop shaft speed(s) between the Novo Rossi and the "sewing machine motor"? As I am in the early stages of planning out a boat, I am interested in these tid - bits of information. If you might know the differences, it would be helpful. Thank you Dave K.
Yeah I screwed up and didn't video myself weighing the boat after the conversion! What a dork. Anyway it came in right at 12lbs, which was really disappointing... I'd hoped for less. But when I weighed it the first time it was with empty tanks so maybe it would be pretty close to 12 if they were full. As for rpm, though I don't know the numbers it's quite obvious that the electric motor spins much higher. In our club we have to limit the prop size on the electric boats to keep them down to a similar speed as the nitros.
Heck I dunno... Rattlesnake RC provided all the parts and bought the boat so I just stuffed in what they gave me. They have all the parts needed here; www.allrc1.com
Dang it, I forgot to video the weighing of it after conversion, but it was just under 12lbs. When I weighed it previously it was with empty tanks, so I think it's pretty much exactly what it was before
Bill I think you know why I stay with my electrics👍Instant torque and speed,and man that thing was fast and love the care you took to make sure this thing was gonna be here for a long time💪
You sold the eliminator.😢 I kinda saw this coming, like, I thought, maybe he's not electrifying it for himself. 😁 Well, the good news is, you will now be building a new boat for eliminator's Novarossi, aren't you?
Heck I dunno... Everything came from Bill Brandt who bought the boat from me and asked me to convert it for him. Bill owns Rattlesnake RC and is a many time scale electric champion. Bill sells all the parts and pieces on his website so you might want to ask him about the details. You can find him here; www.allrc1.com
Be patient, he is often slow to reply (2-3 days, he sells a number of products worldwide and is very busy), plus he's likely at the NAMBA Nationals this week.
I am new to electric drive. That's what we called it when we were designing an electric drive submarine. What is the correlation between motor size, prop size and boat size? Are there certain design rules to follow?
I wish I could help, but I'm a nitro and gas guy and I throw props at my boats until something works right. With the electric conversion I just finished I took the advice of a long time electric guy and put on a small prop for testing. Hopefully someone here can help more!
You're right, and you haven't offended me at all. Our club limits the speed by limiting the prop size. The boats can easily turn a lot more prop and make a ton more speed, but we've found that with the bigger props terribly bad things happen very quickly when there's seven of these things on the water all at once!
Hay Scott..I don't do full scale hydro but have built a older hewey hydro foam sponsons built for electric...I do watch your boat builds your set ups ex awesome man..your boats look hi class bud...and the fact you work with the big real hydro..awesome..love it..pit tours ex...love it man..thanks..your the man...first class all the way...again thanks for your videos you share..
Thanks, I'm glad you like my vids!
Incredible , I never heard such a quiet electric motor boat . This is the first I ever heard without a flex drive . Fantastic work sir . . .
Thank you!
I always put the soft fuzzy side of velcro on removable things like batteries and RX's just because it makes them nicer to hold.
Omg stability of the boat is perfect
Thanks!
Can i have the blueprints hull design?
Nope but get the kits here mlboatworksrc.com/
Love RC boats specially Nitro
Very nice build, Mr Meyers!
In the process of formlating a build from your video series and thinking completing the build as an electric. can you post what motor, ecs and batteries you recondment that you used?
Nope, because I don't know. I'm a nitro and gas guy, and all the parts for my electric conversion came from Rattlesnake RC who commissioned the project. Most of it was older stuff anyway. Bill at Rattlesnake would be a better resource for electric boat advise and parts. Find him here www.allrc1.com
I’m a little late to the game here, but I kinda got a chuckle out of the guy in boots throwing the hydro like a nitro boat, it’s ok to just plop the boat in the water, it’ll move out all on it’s own I promise. Electric is awesome for people like me with little patience, no I’m not a pediatrician, I just like the idea of turning my boat off putting it on a shelf till next year, charge, turn it on and away you go 👍. I do see that this is a very well hand crafted boat and maintenance is paramount of course but the electric motors can’t be beat for durability, longevity and the power is near limitless. Have fun folks!!!
Old habits die hard I guess! 🤣
Thank you Scott!
Just the right amount of OCD😎
And sometimes a bit too much!
Good looking smooth running boat
Thanks!
Nice and clean build, Mr Meyers! But... what a huge space inside the hull as compared to my Hydro-1-Naviga competition outriggers. I really have to piece ESC, motor, servo, cables, connectors and watercooling-hoses in. Can be a headache sometimes :-). Now, let's answer your question: it runs too wet, too much prop in the water too. It can be caused by the water-condition (very calm, these boats benefit from more choppy waters), but getting the transom from the water will improve efficiency dramatically.
Bingo!
nice boat. nice workplace.
Thanks!
Nicely done Scott. Yaa that was a unexpected twist at the end...lol
Thanks Bobby... gotta keep you guessing!
Well Scott, you the man🙌
Well I'm one of them anyway....!
The Master! Thanks again Scott. With electric boats, helis and rc cars, I stopped using velcro in extreme speed situations or anywhere water might get at it. I prefer shoo goo for mounting electronics. Cooling line tab mounts are cool.
Shoo Goo?!? What happens when I want to take it back apart? That stuff is brutal!
@@M5PerfHydros You dont and leave it forever.
@@M5PerfHydros You dont.
Great video Scott
Just finishing a Kit Bashed V-Box kit. Also , painting a Gas Backlash Gen 3. Terry&ThePirates South Florida
Cool! Put some videos up and let's take a look!!
Hey just to look cool I take the black tubing and split it to make a loom for the signal wires👍
What? You sold it!!!! Blind sided. So smooth.
Time to build another boat!
Quick question, Scott. When it comes to water pick up...which is better? Rudder pick up, transom-mounted beveled brass tubing, or perhaps a hull-embedded beveled brass tubing? THanks
Depends.... A hydro spends most of it's time in the air so any shallow water pickup will only pick up air! This is why you have holes as low as possible on the rudder blade. The beveled tubing or tapered transom pick-up will only work on a wetted hull like a cat or offshore
Just a touch of silicone under the tubing keeps it still and can come off easy if needed to change.Just a dab and a piece of tape to keep til it sets
Nice work ! 👍
Thanks Berni!
Can you talk about the total weight of the boat and you motor kv and esc chosen. Sorry if you have already talked about this in the past. Thanks.
This boat came in just over 11 pounds. Electronics fit competition specs for the RC Unlimited racing series. Go here and view the 8th scale electric rules to get the details www.rcunlimiteds.com/rulebook
Love it and was excited for you Bill!
That is a great setup and looks cool too👍
Thanks 👍
Magnifique. Un beau projet!!! Good job!!!👍😉
Merci beaucoup!
I like those 90 Deg angle motor connectors ! Where are the from ? And what ESC and Rudder Servo is that ? Thanks!
P.S. I can think of one good reason to put the "loopy" stuff in the boat as the "fuzzy" stuff can get "contaminated/ used " over time so when you change the Battery, you obviously would use new fuzzy stuff ! voila ! (I am a genius - I think LOL)
Heck man, I don't know what the parts are. The conversion was commissioned by the boat's new owner and he supplied all the parts... Bill at Rattlesnake RC. You can find him here www.allrc1.com
On a side note, I think you would make a great hand model 😎
Ha ha! Yeah but those hairy arms... gross!
Yes and yes
Scott , why double the voltage from 12 to 24 Volt with the batteries, why not run them in series at 12 volts, with 24 v do you get more rev's/torque ??.Phil
Waaay more rpm! For the most part volts = rpm where amps = torque, and it's not a rock crawler!
Very very cool machine there Scott. It's a beast. I had a guy make me a fiberglass R42 eventually. He's also a gas guy. He was blown away at the speed of the electric motor I put in on just 6s. We also started with a small prop... 60mm. Going to try a 75mm tomorrow.
Cool! I'll need to see some video....
@@M5PerfHydros disaster... Don't think my 150amp ESC can handle it. It kept shutting down
More power!
@@M5PerfHydros story of my life...
Hi Scott, loving these videos from Somerset in the UK where I’m building my 1/8 hydroplane. Quick question: what main batteries are you using (capacity & discharge)?
I'm really just a nitro and gas guy. All the parts used in my nitro to electric conversion series were provided by Rattlesnake RC, and I don't recall what the specs were. Bill is super helpful and I'm sure he could tell you what was used. You can message him through his website here www.allrc1.com
No.. not a dork. If you had a production manager, executive producer, and Jaxon Brown did not have to go the vet , you would have got that detail. What you have done is greatly appreciated by us old "F#*rts" that do not have the were with all (or i-phone smarts) to present such information. Thanks for what you have accomplished. Again, highly appreciated. Keep up the good fight. Dave K.
Thanks Dave!
I did actualy watch all og the build video 👍 so here is that comment you askt for 😃
Ha ha! Thanks!
WOW you did a nice job on the epoxy on that . I want to get into boats cause a day after my birthday 2019 mar 29 I had a mild stroke. And now I'm going blind in my right eye. Cant fly much anymore. Would love to own that boat help me build one eric b out
I would like to build this boat with a 90mm EDF. Would it be faster or slower than your set up? Thanks!
I have no idea... Build it!
Hey Scott, Any ideas how to ensure the boat can "right" itself in case of a flip over? I know you might say, don't let it flip over in the first place....but is there are self-righting maneuver or trick?
The short answer is no. The longer answer is that there are self-righting hulls available, but in scale hydro racing the boats must be close replicas of the full size boats with no additional features. As such they are just as happy floating upside down as they are floating upright. So..... Don't flip!
Use a ford 2 wire spark plug separator clip. On the cooling lines or
Which hull was the lighter nitro or Elect. diff in weight ???
You know, I forgot to video when I weighed it! The finished electric version was 6oz heavier, which was very disappointing. But.... Watch for a new video coming soon that will show my efforts to solve that problem!
up to which cable cross-sections are they available?
Not sure what you mean, but the mfr is available at this email; bbyers@altamotive.com
Do you have the plans for that boat I'd like to build that. I've been building aircraft for a long time just getting into boats my first boat is a .67 11cc prather pirahna.
No plans, but the kit is available here; mlboatworksrc.com/shop/ols/products/1-slash-8th-scale-newton-150-slash-mhr-8710-extreme-kit
Scott thanks for the video well done as always, would like to see a match race one with the nitro and one electric.
When some of the guys first started building electric scales here in the NW we ran them heads-up with the nitro's for a couple years. I used to take pride in never losing to one, but they've gotten so much faster now that I don't think the nitro's could keep up unless the electrics were limited. Even now that the electrics run in a separate class we do limit the diameter of the props just to keep them at sane speeds!
nice job.
Thanks Gary.... Your turn!
@@M5PerfHydros I’m getting there. I may need some guidance along the way especially at the nose though.
what size motor are you running and what is approx boat length and with im building my first hydro aprox 45" long just curious what need for a motor thanks
The boat dimensions, motor, and batteries are spec as required under our racing rules. The boat is 43" long and uses 8s batteries. Here are the motor rules copied from the rulebook;
* Approved motors: i. NEU 1527 1.5Y 850KV ii. HET Typhoon 700-98 840KV iii. Turnigy SK3-3994 850KV iv. TP 4040 10Y 830KV v. TP 4060 6Y 860KV 1. Approved as a test motor for 2020. b. Motors not on the approved motor list: i. Shall not exceed the manufacturer’s KV rating of 860 KV. 1. If the motor case is not clear marked with the manufacturer’s KV rating, the owner should be prepared to provide documentation of the maximum KV rating of the motor. ii. May not have a motor case exceeding the following dimensions: 1. Length: 105 mm (4.134 in.), this includes any bearing protrusions. 2. Diameter: 42 mm (1.654 in.).
Wow, it’s awesome! Are you going to build a new electric boat for yourself? Maybe the Meyers Autotech U21?
Never say never!
why are rc race boats always running in an clockwise direction instead of counter-clockwise like their full size counterparts? Is it because of the directions of the motors where torque direction helps them in the turn? Just an guess.
That's it exactly! RC motors rotate counterclockwise, which is opposite of the engines in full-size hydroplanes
@@M5PerfHydros OK Thank You for that. I've been in the rc aircraft business since 1982 but never had an rc hydro which im hoping to get into soon so i assumed the direction of travel has something to do with the motors.
I would like to go with an 1/8 scale hydro kit and build it myself or one of the fiberglass kits by rcboatcompany or some other manufacturer out there and i could build one nice boat. I also have an set of plans to build an 1/8 scale "Pay' N Pak" but im confused on what i would actually need for all the hardware to get it going not being familiar with all the parts and types of electric motors, mounts and stuffings tubes and prop shafts.
This is the style of hull i would like to have.
www.newtonmarine.com/plan_details.php?prodId=443&category=5
=============================
th-cam.com/video/b9UH5pF1pD0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your reply... Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and an safe and Happy New Year!.
~A~
I got you covered Alan!
Get one of the awesome kits from MLBoatworks here; mlboatworksrc.com/shop/ols/products/1-slash-8th-scale-newton-166-slash-mhr-9601-kit
And then contact Bill at Rattlesnake RC for all the hardware! www.allrc1.com/
What distance or run time are y’all seeing on 8s 1p. I’m struggling to make a mile on 8s1p 6000mah
We don't run endurance races. We have a short milling period with five lap races. Still plenty of power at the end of each race, but I have no idea how much longer they might run
Can you still buy FH3 receivers for that radio?
RX471W from rcmart $70
Awesome man. Its always hard to sell something you put all that time in.Well I'm sure it went to.a good home.congrats on a successful conversion. Awesome 👍
Thanks!
Clean 👍😎
Ha ha... hope it stays that way!
Hi Scott, Have you tried graphene batteries? They are rumored to have significantly higher energy density and the cost looks reasonable.
Yup, Bill Brandt uses these and sells them in his website
Hi do you have an assorted tool box for each boat you own?
Nope, just one track box
Why the hatch is not centralized on the hull?
It is a copy of the real boat that raced many years ago
@@M5PerfHydros Understand but this design with the motor design original is made for counter steer the propeller torque or help with curve?
Originally it was thought that more weight over the turn fin would help, but the idea was dropped in later designs. I believe the opposite is helpful in model boats where a bit more weight to the outside sponson helps counter prop torque
Definitely looks to me like it's running too "downhill" at the end there, I'd say raise the strut. Not sure on props. I'm not anywhere close to an expert though haha
I agree completely! Making the changes now, plus another little twist that you'll see later ...
Is there a chance you could do a start to finish series that shows all steps for beginners. Example, ML Boatworks kits are great, but the bottom of boat hull is wider than wood so how do you fill seams, and do you run seams front to back, or side to side? And hydros with hull that bends up. Cut wood, or bend? And so on
Remember this, kids today don't have shop class and most don't have dads.
That's a good idea, and I've actually thought about doing that. Problem is I don't build from kits anymore as I prefer to design my own, but maybe I'll talk to Mike at MLBoatworks to see if he'll sponsor the project. Meanwhile... If the wood you have isn't wide enough you've got the wrong stuff! You should never have to splice the bottom! Check out Balsa USA or Aircraft Spruce online and you'll find much larger sheets. Grain should always be front to rear with the only exception being the front most piece of the sponson bottoms where it curves up sharply. This section needs side to side grain so it'll curve more easily.
For the floor designs that angle upward, your guess is as good as mine! I've run boats with a defined sharp break and boats with a curved floor and both work fine. Which is best? Heck I don't know. Build one each way and find out!
@@M5PerfHydros ok. Thanks for the support reference and I will check them out.
@@M5PerfHydros well he I am about to show my dumbness. So I have a kit, and the flat hull portion of the boat according to the #4 rib and transom, ir 14" between the down cut for the sponsor side. I can not find plywood that is 1/8 X 14 X 48 to do the hull in one piece. So, what am I not understanding?
I'm glad you couldn't find it! Crikey if you use 1/8" ply to skin the thing it's gonna weigh 25 pounds!
Ok here's the thing... You're gonna use 1mm (1/32") Finnish birch to skin the top deck, and 1.5mm (1/16") for all the bottom surfaces. Go here, scroll down, and click 'half sheet' for the 1.5mm stuff;
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php
On the other hand, that boat is a monster so maybe a 1/8" floor isn't a bad idea..... Man you're breaking new ground with that beast
I like your videos 👍😃 but maybe you could build a big v hull boat ? The reason is i lookt at your videos is that im going to build an MMPoduckts Watersnake twin tp 5850 1000kv with arrowshark arneson twin x-blade drive, (and im in over my head ) so thanks for all og your videos ! They are greit
Thanks! I'm a hydro guy so probably won't be doing any v-hulls soon, but you never know! Hey, why don't you shoot some video of your build? Maybe YOU could help others figure it out!
Which is faster your electric or your gas boat?
Very similar in speed
Has the next project begun yet?
Of course! The Gasser 2.0 is on the jig!
That's looking amazing! Wish I could afford a model like this. greetings from the UK ^_^
Thanks Adam, and thanks for watching from your side of the pond!
Scott, I really enjoy your videos and get a lot out of them. Question: What is the little black bundle attached to the ESC by a red and black wire just under the capacitors? In this video it has a yellow zip tie around it. Thanks.
It's an extra bank of capacitors to handle the zap!
@@M5PerfHydros Is that an add-on or an option at time of purchase?
Hmm... Truth is I don't know for sure as it was a used esc that I got from Bill Brandt who commissioned the conversion and bought the boat from me. As I understood it, it's an earlier version that came like that and the later ones do not. Still... I could be wrong (no surprise here!). Bill could shoot you straight on everything related to the electrics. You can get him through his website at www.allrc1.com
In one of the early on video's you weighed the Eliminator prior to "de-construction". The reading on the scale was 11.3 lbs. (thats 11 pounds 4.8 oz.) Now that the transformation is complete, how much does the "Electro Eliminator" weigh ? Also if you happen to know, is there much difference in prop shaft speed(s) between the Novo Rossi and the "sewing machine motor"? As I am in the early stages of planning out a boat, I am interested in these tid - bits of information. If you might know the differences, it would be helpful. Thank you Dave K.
Yeah I screwed up and didn't video myself weighing the boat after the conversion! What a dork.
Anyway it came in right at 12lbs, which was really disappointing... I'd hoped for less. But when I weighed it the first time it was with empty tanks so maybe it would be pretty close to 12 if they were full. As for rpm, though I don't know the numbers it's quite obvious that the electric motor spins much higher. In our club we have to limit the prop size on the electric boats to keep them down to a similar speed as the nitros.
@@M5PerfHydros which prop size or diameter do you limit too?
Any prop with a maximum 57mm diameter. Full rules here; acrobat.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:c88f4987-ec04-3e0d-a797-b4a12f91d6a6
It's running wet and that means too much Rooster Tail !
Lower Strut and Bring up the Skid Fin !!
New subscriber, awesome builds and great information! Have you ever tried Titanium fasteners instead of steel?
No need, I use aluminum fasteners! Cheaper and lighter and plenty strong enough
@@M5PerfHydros Yes I see you use aluminum fasteners but you said some places for strength you still use stainless, replace stainless with Ti
Oh I see. Yes I suppose I could do that!
Bad ass!
You crack me up JP!
Source of your Aul Servo mounting screws looked at all the normal suppliers no joy
Prepare yourself for great joy, and then click this link; www.fastener-express.com/
Looking sexy bill, the boat i mean. Sorry buddy. She's going together like butter, nice work man! Can't wait to see the performance!!
Man I wasn’t expecting that one!Hard for me to sell my builds so you must have gotten paid👍
Not so much... Bill is a good friend. Besides, it's more about the building for me
why do you have a batt to the reciever?
This older speed control does not have a receiver power capability
Is that esc the ztw seal150a opto 6-12s on ose?
Heck I dunno... Rattlesnake RC provided all the parts and bought the boat so I just stuffed in what they gave me. They have all the parts needed here; www.allrc1.com
@@M5PerfHydros cool thanks for the link to rattlesnake rc.
Water proof RX?
Yup. Sanwa rx371w
What did you come up with for a final weight?
Dang it, I forgot to video the weighing of it after conversion, but it was just under 12lbs. When I weighed it previously it was with empty tanks, so I think it's pretty much exactly what it was before
Hi Scott, which wooden hit is that ???
Here you go mlboatworksrc.com/shop/ols/products/1-slash-8th-scale-newton-150-slash-mhr-8710-extreme-kit
What motor and esc did you use
Heck I don't know. The parts were provided by Rattlesnake RC who commissioned the conversion. Check them out here; www.allrc1.com
I want this boat but big big nitro
ooo i peeked
Cheater!
Bill I think you know why I stay with my electrics👍Instant torque and speed,and man that thing was fast and love the care you took to make sure this thing was gonna be here for a long time💪
Yeah but it's almost too easy!
Where can I get the drawings of this hydroplane?
mlboatworksrc.com/
Are there kits for these boats?
Yup! mlboatworksrc.com/
Now its straight
what prop is on that?
Darned if I know. I do know it was a three blade ABC prop provided by the buyer of the boat, but I don't recall the number
Hello where can I buy this boat
Right here; mlboatworksrc.com/shop/ols/categories/extreme-series-various-scales
You sold the eliminator.😢 I kinda saw this coming, like, I thought, maybe he's not electrifying it for himself. 😁 Well, the good news is, you will now be building a new boat for eliminator's Novarossi, aren't you?
You're the first to ask about that!
Honestly I don't have an 1/8 scale picked out right now, but I'm starting to cook up some ideas. Any suggestions?
What about A beautiful mahogany decked shovelnose hydro? Along the lines of a 1957 miss Bardahl?@@M5PerfHydros
Oh man... I don't know if I could pull that off!
You're selling yourself short. Of course you can build it. If, however, the issue is the mahogany deck, there's always iron-on mahogany veneer. 😁
what motor and esc???
Heck I dunno... Everything came from Bill Brandt who bought the boat from me and asked me to convert it for him. Bill owns Rattlesnake RC and is a many time scale electric champion. Bill sells all the parts and pieces on his website so you might want to ask him about the details. You can find him here; www.allrc1.com
Does the guy still make the wire conversion kits ?
I tried to email him using the email address in your description but he does not reply
Be patient, he is often slow to reply (2-3 days, he sells a number of products worldwide and is very busy), plus he's likely at the NAMBA Nationals this week.
@@M5PerfHydros thank you, to save waiting do you know roughly how many dollars the conversion kit is?
That's some sexy stuff right there!!👍👍👍
Keep yer shirt on Madmaxx!
Sounds like a turbine engine
19:40. No you cant get away like that! Silicone is heavy! You need an aluminum tube! Thats what you told us!
I know, I know, but I found the aluminum tubing to be a pain so I scrapped the idea. Besides, you should know better than to listen to me!
@@M5PerfHydros that last sentense killed me😂
I was expecting it to be a bit quicker
So....gonna build one for yourself?
Never say never!
Just throw a x457 3 blade and let it eat!
What does an x457 prop do?
@@edwardjohnson3189 57mm is the max diameter we can run in out club and the series from octura have more lift
chomp chomp!
I am new to electric drive. That's what we called it when we were designing an electric drive submarine. What is the correlation between motor size, prop size and boat size? Are there certain design rules to follow?
I wish I could help, but I'm a nitro and gas guy and I throw props at my boats until something works right. With the electric conversion I just finished I took the advice of a long time electric guy and put on a small prop for testing. Hopefully someone here can help more!
Dont think Dialectic grease is conductive
It's not, yet it's inside sensitive connections in cars, aircraft, etc ... Corrosion prevention and water resistance is the key!
Upgred hp power k
Can't you get more speed? Seems too slow. And no im not trying to be a smart ass, it just seems slow. Ive seen these boats one heck of a lot faster.
You're right, and you haven't offended me at all. Our club limits the speed by limiting the prop size. The boats can easily turn a lot more prop and make a ton more speed, but we've found that with the bigger props terribly bad things happen very quickly when there's seven of these things on the water all at once!
OCD