A paper punch like a single hole punch, or i guess 3 hole punches would work if it doesnt dent the lid... i just use the single hole punch for adding holes to paper for binder rings is perfect for 13mm injection ports for a friction fit and eliminates the need for glue. but i use mason jar lids that i can fit into thw punch
Good idea! I'm not such a fan of the friction fit though. With glue I can be 100% certain I have a perfect seal. The glue also prevents rust on the lids (I have no idea where I can find those plastic lids I see some growers use :D) Hole punch is a great idea though
@@BigMush9000 "Polypropylene (PP) and polypropylene copolymer (PPCO) containers can be autoclaved many times. Fluoropolymer products, such as Teflon PFA, FEP, or ETFE, can be autoclaved without problems." ... I still don't know if I like the idea of plastics but they do seem like a better solution... Altho rust is not an issue tbh but for you I guess making videos you want it looking presentable. The only issue iron oxide can cause is a bacterial contamination but it would only target the rust. PCing the rusty lids fixes that tho. There is 2 types of hard water, suspended iron particles and then the bacterial kind that starts with suspended iron particles. I unfortunately have the bacterial hard water so I had to learn aaaaaalllll about bacterial rust/iron rot. A little bit of rust isn't an issue, just for the peace of mind 👍👌
@gizmorepairs anywhere between 18 and 25 or so Celsius works pretty well I try and keep colonisation temp on the lower side. It's slower for sure, but certain spores and things germinate at higher temps. I usually aim for 20c. This of course depends on the particular type of mushroom you wish to grow ;)
Thank you! A few questions about the needle. Is flame sterilizing the needle required if it's a new needle? I would think they are sterile. Also I notice you only sterilize the first half of the needle, but then stick it in all the way into the port. Looks like it doesn't cause issues but just something I noticed. Finally, I've always wondered if flame sterilizing the needle kills the LC already in that part of the needle?
No, not necessary at all to flame sterilise new needles. This isn't a new needle though, it's been used before when I filled it with the culture. As for flame sterilising half the needle.....it's easy to get complacent. That's why I put a blob of sanitiser on the port. To catch anything I've missed. Insurance against any mistakes! And yes, I would imagine the any culture is killed when heating. I usually squirt that out to cool the needle a little!
It's amazing that you can grow high-quality mycelium using just stuff at home! Your method is very helpful.
Yes! It always amazes and fascinates me when I get a healthy and rich mycelial growth
It’s crazy how much they grow!
A paper punch like a single hole punch, or i guess 3 hole punches would work if it doesnt dent the lid... i just use the single hole punch for adding holes to paper for binder rings is perfect for 13mm injection ports for a friction fit and eliminates the need for glue. but i use mason jar lids that i can fit into thw punch
Good idea! I'm not such a fan of the friction fit though. With glue I can be 100% certain I have a perfect seal. The glue also prevents rust on the lids (I have no idea where I can find those plastic lids I see some growers use :D)
Hole punch is a great idea though
@@BigMush9000 "Polypropylene (PP) and polypropylene copolymer (PPCO) containers can be autoclaved many times. Fluoropolymer products, such as Teflon PFA, FEP, or ETFE, can be autoclaved without problems." ...
I still don't know if I like the idea of plastics but they do seem like a better solution... Altho rust is not an issue tbh but for you I guess making videos you want it looking presentable. The only issue iron oxide can cause is a bacterial contamination but it would only target the rust. PCing the rusty lids fixes that tho. There is 2 types of hard water, suspended iron particles and then the bacterial kind that starts with suspended iron particles. I unfortunately have the bacterial hard water so I had to learn aaaaaalllll about bacterial rust/iron rot. A little bit of rust isn't an issue, just for the peace of mind 👍👌
@lukeblizzard5909 Thanks for this mate! Im still relatively new to all of this, so I'm very grateful for your advice. Cheers man!
Best temperature for colonisation ?
@gizmorepairs anywhere between 18 and 25 or so Celsius works pretty well
I try and keep colonisation temp on the lower side. It's slower for sure, but certain spores and things germinate at higher temps. I usually aim for 20c. This of course depends on the particular type of mushroom you wish to grow ;)
Thank you! A few questions about the needle. Is flame sterilizing the needle required if it's a new needle? I would think they are sterile. Also I notice you only sterilize the first half of the needle, but then stick it in all the way into the port. Looks like it doesn't cause issues but just something I noticed. Finally, I've always wondered if flame sterilizing the needle kills the LC already in that part of the needle?
No, not necessary at all to flame sterilise new needles. This isn't a new needle though, it's been used before when I filled it with the culture. As for flame sterilising half the needle.....it's easy to get complacent. That's why I put a blob of sanitiser on the port. To catch anything I've missed. Insurance against any mistakes! And yes, I would imagine the any culture is killed when heating. I usually squirt that out to cool the needle a little!
@@BigMush9000 thankyou
@@TomSotoski no worries, man. Happy to help.
Am I hearing an NZ accent.
Not quite, I'm Australian. But I did live in NZ for around 5 or 6 years