'What temperature should I set the oven to Mr Hollywood please?' another great video Duncan, even I was understanding it 🤣 I'm having to change my car so still no towbar ☹ I will get the gc8 to you one day.
Thanks Duncan once again. you have been quiet for a while!! You must of been mega busy in life glad your well and ok . will my AEM AFR gauge be accurate enough for tuning? Cheers grant Just another quick one could my old écu have been écu lab tuned? And Locked 👌🙏👍
Glad I found your channel Duncan! ALOT of Levorg 1.6 DIT owners are looking for a engine and CVT tune. Have you any experience with the Levorg and 1.6T engine hence there doesnt seem to be anything out there for this model/engine? Thank you.
@@racedynamix Thank you for the fast reply and information! You got yourself a new sunbscriber. Eager to hear something on the Levorg topic! Kindest regards from Sweden.
Any mention of knocking? I really like your safebase map idea. Then keep pushing & them when errors show you know it's the most recent change & such. Cool man helped me thx
Thank you for watching.. Knock/Detonation is covered in the other video that I done on Self Tuning along with how to make a set of Det Cans for yourself. Also there are many other members only videos covering all aspects of tuning 👍
i flashed on my stock ecu map- do you think it is worth "starting safe" or not really? is stock rom image is good enough to "push" from? i figured out how to rescale the maf.. only mod ive done--- & some idle increase-- thx
Can you do a video on the correct way to work with changing the DAM values so that it doesn't keep wanting to add timing to your tune? Perhaps even ways to use the DAM system to your advantage while tuning? I'm working on tuning my 2016 FA20 DIT engine.
yeah no probs... but in the meantime set the initial dam value to its max of 1 (or 16 if 16bit ecu ) so that when you flash it it is at its max value and the ecu can't add anything while you are tuning. 👍
Hello. I have an 04 wrx sti USDM. I cracked my ringlands on 2 cylinders one night driving hard, so I tore it down and am currently rebuilding it entirely. New forged shortblock with new heads. What it used to have was a FMIC kit, ported td06(deadbolt sz49 I think), uel headers, tgv deletes, side feed(not sure what cc) grim speed boost controller, hks bov and catless down pipe. I know it was tuned on an opensource software since there’s no access port or piggyback on the ecu. Currently, I am putting on DW1500cc injectors top feed, FP black, 19mm intake spacers, iwire Wideband o2 sensor, grimspeed up pipe with 40mm turbo smart ewg, iwire speed density hybrid kit, and a few more goodies. In addition to following keeping a copy of the original tune and lowering target boost, wastegate duty cycle set to 0 and retarding timing. Should I hold off on installing the speed density kit until I get my MAF scaled appropriately to the new injectors? I’m spending time here and there on romraider forums and it advises on not messing with speed density until you’re very familiar with maf scaling and the like. Also this is a new shortblock and I’m more scared than anything on having a terrible first start and breaking it in. Yet I want to learn how to tune the car so that I can fix and find problems while having fun. Sorry for the long comment. Cheers!
Hi mate. Yeah pretty long comment but not the longest 😂 Must try harder 😉😂 Yeah I completely echo the get your head around maf based before jumping speed density, once you can tune it with maf you will have a greater understanding of what is going on behind the scenes in the speed density conversion. You will hit the limit of the maf with that turbo at full chat so will need to go SD or aftermarket. Have you considered joining my academy on here..lots more info and videos/tech tips/live stream and discord group for detailed subaru tuning discussions ?
@@racedynamix Yeah. I just joined the academy. So I’ll be sure to pick your brain when I get the chance in the future. I guess I’ll be running around on low boost for a while. Which I don’t mind since I’ll be breaking in the engine slowly. Really the only question I have left is to whether I should use ecuedit or romraider/ecuflash when tuning. Mainly their pros and cons for both methods. Thanks!
@@Slaydur The choice between ecuedit & ecuflash/romraider is a personal one really. there are pros and cons for each, I prefer ecuedit because it is all enclosed in the same software so speeds up work flow for me and the graphing is much better. But either can work well. Speak soon 👍
These sound like pretty solid tips if you're running a turbocharged Subaru. I'd imagine that the process would be similar for a N/A engine. I have a '15 Impreza with the FB20, a Tactrix, and SubaruEdit. I've been mainly data logging to learn a bit about what the car is doing, but is there anything that you would do differently with a N/A engine other than maybe targeting a leaner AFR than 11.3:1?
I will see whether I can put together a specific NA Tuning Video .. I have a few requests now :) Yeah, slightly leaner but optimise for your fuel and make sure it is det free with the modifications you have put on
Really enjoyed the vids so far, I have a UK Foz XT with PPP map (I believe this may or may not be locked) I want some Tutu noises and have a Perrin intake, they market these not needing a map, diameter wise looks the same as the MAF. Have you found these need mapping? From watching the previous videos it’s a resounding yes.
Hi Duncan, when mapping a car that doesn’t want to make power is there a step by step process you have to go through to help find the issue? I’m sure you must be pretty good now at knowing what the issue is straight away on Subarus, and what issue seems to pop up the most? thanks in advance
Good question.. I will try to answer it 😊 If it is not making boost I will look for restrictions in and out (exhaust and inlet), missing restrictor pills, wastegate plumbed wrong, weak actuator. If it is super rich and low boost I would find the boost leak. If it is right on boost and logical fueling but power still not there, then leads more to things like cam timing being a tooth or two out. Some cars are head scratchers though and there are a wealth of different things that could restrict power so it is a case of going through them all including compression and leak down issues.
@@racedynamix thanks very interesting I’m sure you will be covering this in one of your future videos anyway but I thought I’d ask, I’ve had afew issues in the past when having cars mapped one was on a bugeye Sti and the avcs sensor was working randomly, luckily the tuner at (powerstation) kept them in stock lol the car wasn’t even old then and low mileage, it was a good lesson to get your car on a dyno for a heath check even if it’s not getting mapped
@@racedynamix I had another one where I had a small crack in the aftermarket headers but I never knew otherwise I would have sorted before hand, trouble is you can’t really hear any blow with a blitz nur spec r and a decat data logging was essential lol
i have slight feedback knock of low rpm 2800, doesn't matter what i do it don't go away. more fueling less timing always there, more so when the engine is still warming up, cant hear anything on the det cans. could this be noise from a forged engine?
Hi. Simple answer yes it could well be. Could also be a resonance from something in the engine bay like a heat shield or anything attached to the engine tbh 👍
Hi. It depends on the injectors. Id1000 for example only really need scaling and adjustment to the tip in values to make them work right. Some others like older deutchworks take a lot more fiddling. Generally though, scaling and dead times get you close enough to start tuning 👍
Do you have any similar advice for tuning an n/a Subaru motor? Specifically an EJ253 to be running explicitly on premium 91+ (US/Canada rating) Octane fuel? (stock everything, except lighter crank pulley, intake tract extended to pull from a bonnet CIA/dust snorkel and DIY free flowing catback) Probably an odd request, but we race RallyCross in Canada in N/A AWD class and the 10-15hp (or more?) we'd love to get would make all the difference to get a few fractions on race day. Found your channel recently, been enjoying it and learning a lot so far, but finding info on squeezing marginal gains out of non turbo Subarus on the net is a bit of a challenge!
Hi and welcome.. Marginal gains are the thing and would really be marginal which is why info hard to find 😄 but if it were me this is what I would do: 1. weight saving to the extreme - all sound deadening off - all captive bolts unused cut off - all panel fixing bolts replaced for aircraft grade aluminium - lighter brake discs Depending on your class regs - lighter glass or perspex - lighter doors - lighter exhaust (titanium) Power wise it is a case of better flow in and out of engine to try and release some power. Cams may help top end power. There is a little power to be gained on the ignition timing map and by running marginally leaner but would need to check on dyno that it is improving power. Reducing rotating weight helps enormously so brake discs, wheels and tyres.. Also other engine pulleys such as alternator and power steering and even clutch weight. This will not increase power but will improve acceleration. This list is just off the top of my head but weight is the thing that will make the biggest difference to it imo. Hth. Duncan
@@racedynamix Thanks for the response man! Really appreciate it! But basically im getting from this that the tiny amount of power we would get after free flowing exhaust and intake would be the ignition timing advance? Is there anything to be gained adjusting/advancing the AVCS on the N/A SOHC 2.5l? Id assume we would just be tuning for AFR with a wideband anyway to be honest, team Poordrive over here isnt getting the Impreza STD up on a dyno anytime soon, haha! Weve done about as much as we can (or can afford to) for weight reduction etc by now. Not much further we can go down that road.
@@matskraft5110 it would be worth trying the avcs timing but I think it is unlikely to make much of a difference if any tbh. That would need to be done on the dyno to see actual gains in my opinion. I don't know what the std settings are on yours but subaru doesn't spend a whole heap of time making those table smooth in general. Good luck
@@racedynamix Thanks! Going to try it out before next RallyCross season! By the way, STD is just what we've jokingly dubbed our racecar. Its full name is the "Poordrive Subaru Impreza STD", with copycat Prodrive windshield banner and STI font STD badges to boot! 😅
Hi Duncan quick question I was running a map on my 2011 sti with stock turbo fmic, stock injectors and some bolt on mods,it was about 362 bhp. I've just upgraded tp td05 20g fuji top feed rails 750cc injectors ,340lh fuel pump and all supporting mods that go with it air pump delete tgv delete etc. Would it be OK once I tighten everything up to start it just to see that it runs with no leaks etc and then switch it off. 🙈🙉
Yeah.. First 30 seconds it will run a bit rich until the lambda sensor learns to remove some fuel then it will clear. Will drive fine (ish) off boost but will drown with fuel on boost 👍
Hmm. In my experience they are all very inacurate unless you have 100% flat road, zero wind, know the exact coefficient of drag, know the exact weight of the car, all things and people in it in fuel level and even then keep driving and the fuel level goes down and according to the software the power goes up. As a guide to whether power is increasing as opposed to exact power then can give you a good idea if you can get the weights right.
@@racedynamixhi..after using virtual dyno for abit back then in subaru application, "Airboy virtual dyno" from romraider/opensource forum works pretty accurate since drag coefficient,nett vehicle weight, gear ratio and tyre size all included in the software calculation... Although its pretty basic in form of excel file format, but importing subaru log file from ssm2 or romraider logger were straightfoward... Maybe u can do a video on actual rolling road dyno vs virtual dyno using the exact same car,same day, same tuning back to back comparison... Would like to see whats the outcome from actual dyno tuner himself... Please 😊 Cheers ☕☕
I would love to do this but I still have not found a way to tune my 22 WRX as of yet. Since Cobb got pressured by the EPA nazis to stop allowing people to do their own tuning there seems to be nothing available for this new generation of Subarus. Do you happen to know of a solution?
@@racedynamix Thanks Duncan, and I had been looking at the epifan web site but cannot find any version of subaru edit that includes support for the VB 2.4 engines. Unless I am blind, or one of the other versions works for VB as well as what it is listed to support. Anyway, I just looked again after seeing your post just to make sure. I *really* wish I could get this going.
How do you get around an ECM that is erratic. My 2013 Subaru WRX STI ran great and made a lot of power until COVID-19 when a dome light was left on and it sat dead for 3 weeks since then I have retuned it multiple times and may run OK every now and then but usually erratic error codes stumbling and misfires. I plan on putting new plugs in and resetting ECM while battery is out and installing my best Cobb tune. It is frustrating. I have a replacement ECM but it is difficult cloning VIN and other info so the car will run. I can mail both ECM's and have the clone done for around 150$ but what happens if both get lost in mail.
Hi. I haven't seen an intermittent issue with an ecu yet.. It tends to be intermittent sensors or a ground issue. Difficult to advise on sending ecus away for cloning I am afraid.. I have never had to do it. Can you take it to them?
I need for it to stop raining so I can work on the car I figure new plugs couldn't hurt or maybe one of the coils has a bad connection. It seemed fixed when I pulled the fuse and then reprogramed it but that didn't last very long. I find intermittent varying fault codes are difficult to diagnose misfires are the most common but I get different ones all the time. I don't understand why a prolonged dead battery messed up the ECM? I have a lot of mouse problems found a nest in the glove box. I hope one didn't chew up a difficult to find wire.@@racedynamix
I went over it carefully and could find no chewed up wires. The large wiring harness seemed a little loose and I pushed it in tighter. The only other thing that I found was the turbo blow-off valve seemed seized up it wouldn't budge but I wouldn't think that would cause these issues. I put a new fuse in the for the ECM disconnected the battery and reset the ECM again oddly after it warmed up while idling it threw an error code for the knock sensor which I reset and tuned it a second time-although while warming up I was wiggling connectors trying to find anything loose. I planned on changing the plugs but gave up when I couldn't even see them. I wasn't in the mood to dissemble the engine just to change the plugs. I have changed cam belts that were easier than putting plugs in a Subaru. I will take it out for a test drive in a bit. Hopefully pushing in that wiring harness tighter and putting in a new fuse plus reprograming it again will finally get that thing running right. @@racedynamix
@@racedynamix as much as I would love to dabble with my Scooby I think I’ll leave it to the pros.Plan is to bring the WRX to you sometime soon for a health check and maybe a little tune!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Gratitude Duncan for being a paragon, an absolute unit in the community, cheers mate.
My pleasure Niall. Thanks for watching 🙏
Thanks Duncan for all your advice ,time and effort 👍
@@drummondpringle4045 glad you are enjoying the content mate 👍
Cheers Duncan, ive started data logging my forester, this series couldn't have come at a better time!
ESC legend 👍
That's great Jim.. Glad I can be of service 😊👍
Keen to see your live tuning video! I'm always intrigued by how others approach ignition timing maps when tuning an EJ.
Cheers!
It's all about the ignition timing 😄
thank you sir. Please can you touch on IAT vs Timing compensation tables, post and after turbo.
Good shout. I will cover this in detail for Academy Members in those videos shortly. I think it is an important issue 🙏
You're a legend for this
lol - thanks buddy. Lots more videos on this subject :)
'What temperature should I set the oven to Mr Hollywood please?' another great video Duncan, even I was understanding it 🤣 I'm having to change my car so still no towbar ☹ I will get the gc8 to you one day.
🤣
thank you sir, cant wait for the next video. Lots of love from south africa
Me neither.. 😊👍
Thanks Duncan once again. you have been quiet for a while!! You must of been mega busy in life glad your well and ok . will my AEM AFR gauge be accurate enough for tuning?
Cheers grant
Just another quick one could my old écu have been écu lab tuned? And Locked 👌🙏👍
Hi Grant. It's good to be back 😊
Yes the aem gauge is good 👌
It is possible re eculabs bit more likely something local to Poland perhaps.
Glad I found your channel Duncan! ALOT of Levorg 1.6 DIT owners are looking for a engine and CVT tune. Have you any experience with the Levorg and 1.6T engine hence there doesnt seem to be anything out there for this model/engine? Thank you.
@@KokayMate Hi.. and thanks 😁 Working on getting my hands on a Levorg for testing at the moment .. please bear with me 👍
@@racedynamix Thank you for the fast reply and information! You got yourself a new sunbscriber. Eager to hear something on the Levorg topic! Kindest regards from Sweden.
Any mention of knocking? I really like your safebase map idea. Then keep pushing & them when errors show you know it's the most recent change & such. Cool man helped me thx
Thank you for watching.. Knock/Detonation is covered in the other video that I done on Self Tuning along with how to make a set of Det Cans for yourself. Also there are many other members only videos covering all aspects of tuning 👍
i flashed on my stock ecu map- do you think it is worth "starting safe" or not really? is stock rom image is good enough to "push" from? i figured out how to rescale the maf.. only mod ive done--- & some idle increase-- thx
@@m1cklife168 I would pull a couple of degrees from the over 1 load areas just for extra safety 👍
Thanks for doing this Duncan; I would like to become a member and join you on your Tuning Academy videos/lessons.
Cool. Under each video there is a link to Join 👍
Can you do a video on the correct way to work with changing the DAM values so that it doesn't keep wanting to add timing to your tune? Perhaps even ways to use the DAM system to your advantage while tuning? I'm working on tuning my 2016 FA20 DIT engine.
yeah no probs... but in the meantime set the initial dam value to its max of 1 (or 16 if 16bit ecu ) so that when you flash it it is at its max value and the ecu can't add anything while you are tuning. 👍
Get a Full Duplex 4g sim EE is good. It connects to two channels at once. You get 30Mb up plenty fast for streaming !! Keep up the good Vids
I'm in a temporary location so will be back to full strength fibre broadband shortly.. But interesting to know.. Thanks 🙏
Hello. I have an 04 wrx sti USDM. I cracked my ringlands on 2 cylinders one night driving hard, so I tore it down and am currently rebuilding it entirely. New forged shortblock with new heads.
What it used to have was a
FMIC kit, ported td06(deadbolt sz49 I think), uel headers, tgv deletes, side feed(not sure what cc) grim speed boost controller, hks bov and catless down pipe.
I know it was tuned on an opensource software since there’s no access port or piggyback on the ecu.
Currently, I am putting on DW1500cc injectors top feed, FP black, 19mm intake spacers, iwire Wideband o2 sensor, grimspeed up pipe with 40mm turbo smart ewg, iwire speed density hybrid kit, and a few more goodies.
In addition to following keeping a copy of the original tune and lowering target boost, wastegate duty cycle set to 0 and retarding timing. Should I hold off on installing the speed density kit until I get my MAF scaled appropriately to the new injectors? I’m spending time here and there on romraider forums and it advises on not messing with speed density until you’re very familiar with maf scaling and the like. Also this is a new shortblock and I’m more scared than anything on having a terrible first start and breaking it in. Yet I want to learn how to tune the car so that I can fix and find problems while having fun.
Sorry for the long comment.
Cheers!
Hi mate. Yeah pretty long comment but not the longest 😂 Must try harder 😉😂
Yeah I completely echo the get your head around maf based before jumping speed density, once you can tune it with maf you will have a greater understanding of what is going on behind the scenes in the speed density conversion. You will hit the limit of the maf with that turbo at full chat so will need to go SD or aftermarket.
Have you considered joining my academy on here..lots more info and videos/tech tips/live stream and discord group for detailed subaru tuning discussions ?
@@racedynamix Yeah. I just joined the academy. So I’ll be sure to pick your brain when I get the chance in the future.
I guess I’ll be running around on low boost for a while. Which I don’t mind since I’ll be breaking in the engine slowly.
Really the only question I have left is to whether I should use ecuedit or romraider/ecuflash when tuning. Mainly their pros and cons for both methods.
Thanks!
@@Slaydur The choice between ecuedit & ecuflash/romraider is a personal one really. there are pros and cons for each, I prefer ecuedit because it is all enclosed in the same software so speeds up work flow for me and the graphing is much better. But either can work well. Speak soon 👍
These sound like pretty solid tips if you're running a turbocharged Subaru. I'd imagine that the process would be similar for a N/A engine. I have a '15 Impreza with the FB20, a Tactrix, and SubaruEdit. I've been mainly data logging to learn a bit about what the car is doing, but is there anything that you would do differently with a N/A engine other than maybe targeting a leaner AFR than 11.3:1?
I will see whether I can put together a specific NA Tuning Video .. I have a few requests now :)
Yeah, slightly leaner but optimise for your fuel and make sure it is det free with the modifications you have put on
Really enjoyed the vids so far, I have a UK Foz XT with PPP map (I believe this may or may not be locked)
I want some Tutu noises and have a Perrin intake, they market these not needing a map, diameter wise looks the same as the MAF.
Have you found these need mapping? From watching the previous videos it’s a resounding yes.
Hi. Not locked as such.. Easy to get in 👍 I cover it in the rom reading video.
Induction kit.. Yes, it leans it out so needs to be accounted for
Thought that would be the case I’ll take a look.
Thanks for the reply.
Hi Duncan, when mapping a car that doesn’t want to make power is there a step by step process you have to go through to help find the issue? I’m sure you must be pretty good now at knowing what the issue is straight away on Subarus, and what issue seems to pop up the most? thanks in advance
Good question.. I will try to answer it 😊 If it is not making boost I will look for restrictions in and out (exhaust and inlet), missing restrictor pills, wastegate plumbed wrong, weak actuator.
If it is super rich and low boost I would find the boost leak.
If it is right on boost and logical fueling but power still not there, then leads more to things like cam timing being a tooth or two out.
Some cars are head scratchers though and there are a wealth of different things that could restrict power so it is a case of going through them all including compression and leak down issues.
@@racedynamix thanks very interesting I’m sure you will be covering this in one of your future videos anyway but I thought I’d ask, I’ve had afew issues in the past when having cars mapped one was on a bugeye Sti and the avcs sensor was working randomly, luckily the tuner at (powerstation) kept them in stock lol the car wasn’t even old then and low mileage, it was a good lesson to get your car on a dyno for a heath check even if it’s not getting mapped
Good point. The data logging normally highlights those sorts of issues.. Always a good idea for a dyno check 👍
@@racedynamix I had another one where I had a small crack in the aftermarket headers but I never knew otherwise I would have sorted before hand, trouble is you can’t really hear any blow with a blitz nur spec r and a decat data logging was essential lol
i have slight feedback knock of low rpm 2800, doesn't matter what i do it don't
go away. more fueling less timing always there, more so when the engine is still warming up, cant hear anything on the det cans. could this be noise from a forged engine?
Hi. Simple answer yes it could well be. Could also be a resonance from something in the engine bay like a heat shield or anything attached to the engine tbh 👍
how do you deal with bigger injectors, apart from scaling and dead times what other tables do you alter?
Hi. It depends on the injectors. Id1000 for example only really need scaling and adjustment to the tip in values to make them work right. Some others like older deutchworks take a lot more fiddling. Generally though, scaling and dead times get you close enough to start tuning 👍
Is it possible to make a tune in ECUFlash and upload it to Accessport? Or No
if your cars ecu is paired to access port it won't let you. You would need to unpair the access port and start from a base map. Hth 👍
@@racedynamix It does and dosnt lol. I hate to get rid of it. The burn of that money being flushed.
Do you have a tune map for a EZ30 R as well? as it's pretty hard to find a desent one
Cheers mate
Hi Steve.. I do t do email tunes. I custom remap with the car or if you join the academy on here I will give you guidance for doing it yourself 👍
Hi duncan, will the innovate LM-1 work fine for me to learn with as iv come across 1 of a friend as he's upgraded??
Yes mate.. Will work fine 👍
Do you have any similar advice for tuning an n/a Subaru motor? Specifically an EJ253 to be running explicitly on premium 91+ (US/Canada rating) Octane fuel? (stock everything, except lighter crank pulley, intake tract extended to pull from a bonnet CIA/dust snorkel and DIY free flowing catback)
Probably an odd request, but we race RallyCross in Canada in N/A AWD class and the 10-15hp (or more?) we'd love to get would make all the difference to get a few fractions on race day.
Found your channel recently, been enjoying it and learning a lot so far, but finding info on squeezing marginal gains out of non turbo Subarus on the net is a bit of a challenge!
Hi and welcome.. Marginal gains are the thing and would really be marginal which is why info hard to find 😄 but if it were me this is what I would do:
1. weight saving to the extreme
- all sound deadening off
- all captive bolts unused cut off
- all panel fixing bolts replaced for aircraft grade aluminium
- lighter brake discs
Depending on your class regs
- lighter glass or perspex
- lighter doors
- lighter exhaust (titanium)
Power wise it is a case of better flow in and out of engine to try and release some power. Cams may help top end power.
There is a little power to be gained on the ignition timing map and by running marginally leaner but would need to check on dyno that it is improving power.
Reducing rotating weight helps enormously so brake discs, wheels and tyres.. Also other engine pulleys such as alternator and power steering and even clutch weight. This will not increase power but will improve acceleration.
This list is just off the top of my head but weight is the thing that will make the biggest difference to it imo.
Hth.
Duncan
@@racedynamix Thanks for the response man! Really appreciate it!
But basically im getting from this that the tiny amount of power we would get after free flowing exhaust and intake would be the ignition timing advance? Is there anything to be gained adjusting/advancing the AVCS on the N/A SOHC 2.5l? Id assume we would just be tuning for AFR with a wideband anyway to be honest, team Poordrive over here isnt getting the Impreza STD up on a dyno anytime soon, haha!
Weve done about as much as we can (or can afford to) for weight reduction etc by now. Not much further we can go down that road.
@@matskraft5110 it would be worth trying the avcs timing but I think it is unlikely to make much of a difference if any tbh. That would need to be done on the dyno to see actual gains in my opinion. I don't know what the std settings are on yours but subaru doesn't spend a whole heap of time making those table smooth in general. Good luck
@@racedynamix Thanks! Going to try it out before next RallyCross season!
By the way, STD is just what we've jokingly dubbed our racecar. Its full name is the "Poordrive Subaru Impreza STD", with copycat Prodrive windshield banner and STI font STD badges to boot! 😅
@@matskraft5110 🤣😎
Hi Duncan quick question I was running a map on my 2011 sti with stock turbo fmic, stock injectors and some bolt on mods,it was about 362 bhp. I've just upgraded tp td05 20g fuji top feed rails 750cc injectors ,340lh fuel pump and all supporting mods that go with it air pump delete tgv delete etc. Would it be OK once I tighten everything up to start it just to see that it runs with no leaks etc and then switch it off. 🙈🙉
Yeah.. First 30 seconds it will run a bit rich until the lambda sensor learns to remove some fuel then it will clear. Will drive fine (ish) off boost but will drown with fuel on boost 👍
What is a good software for a virtual dyno so we can see gains with road mapping ?
Hmm. In my experience they are all very inacurate unless you have 100% flat road, zero wind, know the exact coefficient of drag, know the exact weight of the car, all things and people in it in fuel level and even then keep driving and the fuel level goes down and according to the software the power goes up. As a guide to whether power is increasing as opposed to exact power then can give you a good idea if you can get the weights right.
@@racedynamixhi..after using virtual dyno for abit back then in subaru application,
"Airboy virtual dyno" from romraider/opensource forum works pretty accurate since drag coefficient,nett vehicle weight, gear ratio and tyre size all included in the software calculation...
Although its pretty basic in form of excel file format, but importing subaru log file from ssm2 or romraider logger were straightfoward...
Maybe u can do a video on actual rolling road dyno vs virtual dyno using the exact same car,same day, same tuning back to back comparison...
Would like to see whats the outcome from actual dyno tuner himself...
Please 😊
Cheers ☕☕
I would love to do this but I still have not found a way to tune my 22 WRX as of yet. Since Cobb got pressured by the EPA nazis to stop allowing people to do their own tuning there seems to be nothing available for this new generation of Subarus.
Do you happen to know of a solution?
Subaru edit works on those 👍
@@racedynamix Thanks Duncan, and I had been looking at the epifan web site but cannot find any version of subaru edit that includes support for the VB 2.4 engines. Unless I am blind, or one of the other versions works for VB as well as what it is listed to support. Anyway, I just looked again after seeing your post just to make sure. I *really* wish I could get this going.
How do you get around an ECM that is erratic. My 2013 Subaru WRX STI ran great and made a lot of power until COVID-19 when a dome light was left on and it sat dead for 3 weeks since then I have retuned it multiple times and may run OK every now and then but usually erratic error codes stumbling and misfires. I plan on putting new plugs in and resetting ECM while battery is out and installing my best Cobb tune. It is frustrating. I have a replacement ECM but it is difficult cloning VIN and other info so the car will run. I can mail both ECM's and have the clone done for around 150$ but what happens if both get lost in mail.
Hi. I haven't seen an intermittent issue with an ecu yet.. It tends to be intermittent sensors or a ground issue.
Difficult to advise on sending ecus away for cloning I am afraid.. I have never had to do it. Can you take it to them?
I need for it to stop raining so I can work on the car I figure new plugs couldn't hurt or maybe one of the coils has a bad connection. It seemed fixed when I pulled the fuse and then reprogramed it but that didn't last very long. I find intermittent varying fault codes are difficult to diagnose misfires are the most common but I get different ones all the time. I don't understand why a prolonged dead battery messed up the ECM? I have a lot of mouse problems found a nest in the glove box. I hope one didn't chew up a difficult to find wire.@@racedynamix
@@ChetJang ah.. I think there is the issue. Find where the mice have eaten and you will find your solution. I 100% doubt it is ecu related
I went over it carefully and could find no chewed up wires. The large wiring harness seemed a little loose and I pushed it in tighter. The only other thing that I found was the turbo blow-off valve seemed seized up it wouldn't budge but I wouldn't think that would cause these issues. I put a new fuse in the for the ECM disconnected the battery and reset the ECM again oddly after it warmed up while idling it threw an error code for the knock sensor which I reset and tuned it a second time-although while warming up I was wiggling connectors trying to find anything loose. I planned on changing the plugs but gave up when I couldn't even see them. I wasn't in the mood to dissemble the engine just to change the plugs. I have changed cam belts that were easier than putting plugs in a Subaru. I will take it out for a test drive in a bit. Hopefully pushing in that wiring harness tighter and putting in a new fuse plus reprograming it again will finally get that thing running right. @@racedynamix
Legend🤙🏻
My pleasure .. There are LOADS of other self tuning videos and an Academy that I have even more detail/tips/tricks in there
@@racedynamix as much as I would love to dabble with my Scooby I think I’ll leave it to the pros.Plan is to bring the WRX to you sometime soon for a health check and maybe a little tune!
@@curlygreen69 👍👍