I was wishing my Elkhorn had the remote jacks but now I'll just be happy that my electric jacks are manually operated switches on the drivers side jacks front and rear! Sometimes simple is good!
Thanks for the troubleshoot video. I worked for SWBT / AT&T over 30 years and replaced numerous phone / data jacks due to corrosion on the tiny brass spring contacts on the cord and jack ports. The cord ends just have a thin plastic shield between each contact groove to prevent shorting. Eventually the manufacturer injected a substance like Vaseline or die-electric grease into the port contacts to minimize corrosion. At times I would use a thin screwdriver to lightly scrape the jack contacts when totally disconnected, and a brass suede brush for the cord ends...as a last resort. If you have a solder pen with small tip, you could freshen the solder connections also in case stress cracks were possible. Hope this helps all who might have similar issues. JwgK Houston Tx
Thanks for the tip on using 12v battery to raise the jacks vs using the hand crank. I was able to reach the power leads on the board with the pairs from each jack.
Thank you for the very informative video. I also have a 2003 Lance1010, mounted on a 2001 Ford F350, 7.3L ZF 6 speed, 4x4 dually. Your video had the answers. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video, lots of good info. Unfortuneatly I have a very different jack control system on my 2017 Lance 825. I am commenting on this thread because maybe someone else is having similar problems. I have been having problems with my Atwood jacks for the last year. Even with a full battery charge and all fuses good, the jacks will not retract or extend, then all of a sudden they will start working. I can raise and lower the camper. I am now sure that it is cold weather that is affecting the operation. I have done this 2 times now. Its 48 degrees outside now. I tried to operate the jacks, no go. Then I turned on the heater warmed up the camper for 10 minutes and then everything worked fine. I am able to raise and lower the camper. So I've found a solution, but not really happy with it. Lance was not responsive and the RV center I go to, wanted to charge me 80$ to diagnose. Anybody have an idea?
It’s possible that due to cold weather, your batteries are not providing enough power to the jacks. As they warm up, the voltage increases. I would try with the camper plugged in or with a battery charger connected. On a cold morning, get a voltage reading on the battery. Use the temperature/voltage chart in the video linked below to confirm a good charge. th-cam.com/video/vc8ZKfqZk4o/w-d-xo.html
@@covetthecamper2289I know this video is a couple of years old but I was hoping you can answer a question for me! Is this some kind of replacement leveling system that you have for your Atwood jacks?
I had a problem with my jacks that had me going for awhile. The short version is that a rodent had chewed through my RJ12-type cable and completely severed it. I could not even find the next segment. When I replaced the cable with a new RJ12 cable, it still didn't work. The activation light never came on and the switch did not click the relay on the controller. I finally discovered that a 'standard' RJ12 cable, like an RJ11, REVERSES the pin definitions from one end to the other, but the cable needed by the Atwood system uses a STRAIGHT cable. So I got two reversing cables and coupled them together with a coupler I had on hand. Then the system worked perfectly. (Note that although the cable is 6-conductor, only four are used--the middle four--so standard RJ11 telephone cables, coupled as described above, should work too.
Great video my friend my light wouldn’t stay on unless I held it in for a very long time I’m going to order one from Amazon I have a 2003 1130 slide in👍
My Fleetwood Caribou is a 2001 with almost the exact same layout. My activation switch is in the same location but my polarity switch is back where the drawer under your closet is. Had the fuse blow out once and that’s how I found it.
Yeah, digging around a couple years ago I found a bunch of relays and resettable fuses between the closet wall and the kitchen wall. There’s a narrow chase there for all the 12V wires and AC wires that drop down from the ceiling.
So for a follow up, did the problem ever show itself again? You stated that you couldn’t recreate the problem after you showed it at the start of the video and as far as we know it never occurred again throughout the troubleshooting process. I’m having the same issue on the same jack as you were and would like to know if you solved the problem long-term by replacing the remote activation module. Thanks.
They are good. However, as with anything mechanical/electronic, there are failures. I personally know of people who have had to replace two relatively new happijac camper jacks on a 2015 Bigfoot truck camper due to failure.
having a similar issue. when i multi meter the front (D) or (P) I get 12 volts when retracting on each, but nothing on either when extending....think bad remote?
I replaced my remote and the GAMA activation panel for good measure. I also added dielectric grease to all of the jack connections. It’s been working great.
I asked about that at my Atwood/Dometic training. Bringing up the jacks fully is best. The 2-3 clicks of the clutch will not harm the mechanism. Excessive clutch slip should be avoided to prevent damage to the jack.
I was wishing my Elkhorn had the remote jacks but now I'll just be happy that my electric jacks are manually operated switches on the drivers side jacks front and rear! Sometimes simple is good!
Eh…. was an easy and inexpensive repair.
Thanks for the troubleshoot video. I worked for SWBT / AT&T over 30 years and replaced numerous phone / data jacks due to corrosion on the tiny brass spring contacts on the cord and jack ports. The cord ends just have a thin plastic shield between each contact groove to prevent shorting. Eventually the manufacturer injected a substance like Vaseline or die-electric grease into the port contacts to minimize corrosion. At times I would use a thin screwdriver to lightly scrape the jack contacts when totally disconnected, and a brass suede brush for the cord ends...as a last resort. If you have a solder pen with small tip, you could freshen the solder connections also in case stress cracks were possible. Hope this helps all who might have similar issues. JwgK Houston Tx
Thanks for the tip on using 12v battery to raise the jacks vs using the hand crank. I was able to reach the power leads on the board with the pairs from each jack.
Thank you for the very informative video. I also have a 2003 Lance1010, mounted on a 2001 Ford F350, 7.3L ZF 6 speed, 4x4 dually. Your video had the answers. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video, lots of good info. Unfortuneatly I have a very different jack control system on my 2017 Lance 825. I am commenting on this thread because maybe someone else is having similar problems. I have been having problems with my Atwood jacks for the last year. Even with a full battery charge and all fuses good, the jacks will not retract or extend, then all of a sudden they will start working. I can raise and lower the camper. I am now sure that it is cold weather that is affecting the operation. I have done this 2 times now. Its 48 degrees outside now. I tried to operate the jacks, no go. Then I turned on the heater warmed up the camper for 10 minutes and then everything worked fine. I am able to raise and lower the camper. So I've found a solution, but not really happy with it. Lance was not responsive and the RV center I go to, wanted to charge me 80$ to diagnose. Anybody have an idea?
It’s possible that due to cold weather, your batteries are not providing enough power to the jacks. As they warm up, the voltage increases.
I would try with the camper plugged in or with a battery charger connected.
On a cold morning, get a voltage reading on the battery. Use the temperature/voltage chart in the video linked below to confirm a good charge.
th-cam.com/video/vc8ZKfqZk4o/w-d-xo.html
@@covetthecamper2289I know this video is a couple of years old but I was hoping you can answer a question for me! Is this some kind of replacement leveling system that you have for your Atwood jacks?
I had a problem with my jacks that had me going for awhile. The short version is that a rodent had chewed through my RJ12-type cable and completely severed it. I could not even find the next segment. When I replaced the cable with a new RJ12 cable, it still didn't work. The activation light never came on and the switch did not click the relay on the controller. I finally discovered that a 'standard' RJ12 cable, like an RJ11, REVERSES the pin definitions from one end to the other, but the cable needed by the Atwood system uses a STRAIGHT cable. So I got two reversing cables and coupled them together with a coupler I had on hand. Then the system worked perfectly. (Note that although the cable is 6-conductor, only four are used--the middle four--so standard RJ11 telephone cables, coupled as described above, should work too.
Great video my friend my light wouldn’t stay on unless I held it in for a very long time I’m going to order one from Amazon I have a 2003 1130 slide in👍
My Fleetwood Caribou is a 2001 with almost the exact same layout. My activation switch is in the same location but my polarity switch is back where the drawer under your closet is. Had the fuse blow out once and that’s how I found it.
Yeah, digging around a couple years ago I found a bunch of relays and resettable fuses between the closet wall and the kitchen wall. There’s a narrow chase there for all the 12V wires and AC wires that drop down from the ceiling.
Thank you for your expertise!
So for a follow up, did the problem ever show itself again? You stated that you couldn’t recreate the problem after you showed it at the start of the video and as far as we know it never occurred again throughout the troubleshooting process. I’m having the same issue on the same jack as you were and would like to know if you solved the problem long-term by replacing the remote activation module. Thanks.
No issues since replacement of the remote module.
I have a new Lance truck camper they dumped Atwood they went to happy jacks Hope happy Jack’s is good quality🤔
They are good. However, as with anything mechanical/electronic, there are failures. I personally know of people who have had to replace two relatively new happijac camper jacks on a 2015 Bigfoot truck camper due to failure.
having a similar issue. when i multi meter the front (D) or (P) I get 12 volts when retracting on each, but nothing on either when extending....think bad remote?
I replaced my remote and the GAMA activation panel for good measure. I also added dielectric grease to all of the jack connections. It’s been working great.
Thanks for the info. I have
a 2002 Lance that the little red light does not want to stay on and now I know how to fix it. Good info.
Great. Quick repair. I linked to the part in the video description.
Atwood had some problems i had the same problem with mine sucks
Eh, I figure 18 years on a $30 switch is ok. Easy repair.
And I noticed your little hard on your jacks when you retract them till they click
I asked about that at my Atwood/Dometic training. Bringing up the jacks fully is best. The 2-3 clicks of the clutch will not harm the mechanism. Excessive clutch slip should be avoided to prevent damage to the jack.