I have NEVER cranked down on a compression fitting. Well... I did the first time I ever used one, and it failed. When I asked a plumbing buddy why it failed? It was because I over torqued it. He suggested: hand tight, wrench it a quarter to one half turn, that's all. Turn on water supply. If you have a minor drip, slowly tighten until drip stops. By over compressing you actually damage the copper, and the insert distorts, and it will never seal.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Never claimed to know everything, but I do KNOW what has NOT worked for me and what is the opinion of all plumbers I've talked too. Nuff said.
I had small leak. I tighten the nut maybe with about 2mm of movement until the leak stopped. I did it twice before the leak stopped. I knew I was close to stopping the leak so I was making only small movement of the nut.
I watched a video last week by a professional plumber in the UK. To my surprise he put both teflon tape and pipe dope not on the threads, but on the outside of the olive! Everybody knows the seal is not at the threads, so his method makes intuitive sense. His point was that the quality of olives has slid backwards over the years, and the risk of a callback is always a worry. For years I ignorantly used teflon tape on the threads, then stopped, and now it's funny to see the pendulum has swung back. Your method makes sense as well, it is more a lubricant that allows smooth torque.
I find tape to be useful to prevent corrosion from freezing up the nut so it is too difficult to remove years later. So many junk valves sold at the big box stores that it's a wonder that the valves even work after a while. That and the tendency to leak in the open position are common failures I see in the field. Pay a little extra and buy Dahl shutoff valves.
You don't need anything other than the nut and the ferrule when using a compression fitting; you just need to compress the ferrule until it stops leaking. That's why it's called a COMPRESSION fitting. Putting it as tight as you can is 'guaranteed' to create a leak. All you need to do is tighten the nut enough to hold the fitting together securely, and then turn the water on and when you see it leak, and it will, tighten the nut slowly until the leak stops, then turn about an eighth of a turn more, and then STOP.
Very good video , refreshing to hear such modesty.. “I don’t know how strong you are but I have arms strong enough to break these measly coppah’ and brass fittin’s righten’ friggen two if ya know what I mean I actually have pretty strong arms from workin all them years on pipes”
"do it up as tight as you can".....the only plumbing video I have watched that has ever said that. It is usually hand tight and then quarter to half a turn.
That has to be the worst possible advice you could give anyone about tightening a compression fitting. All that will do is create a leak that will never stop!
One full turn on a pressurized water line will leak in most cases. I’m not sure why the “ minimum “ mindset is suggested by other videos. I just know how I do them. Hand tight and one full term is probably close to the feel I speak of.
Go ahead and try it yourself. You'll find most cases not getting them tight will cause them to leak. It's a fine line between too tight and just right, comes with experience.
I would never tell anyone to tighten the nut as tight as you can because that joint will be doomed to fail. The downside to using compression fittings that employ brass ferrules is, most DIY types that are not familiar with how much to tighten compression fittings will most always overtighten the nut, thus crushing the ferrule, resulting in a leak. I always tell those new to compression fittings to tighten the nut just enough to hold the fitting together under water pressure, usually about a half turn, and then turn the water on. At that point the fitting will most likely leak but, I then tell them to continue tightening the nut until the leak stops, and then tighten about an eighth to a quarter turn more. If overtightened, the ferrule will be crushed, and once its crushed it will never stop leaking. The only fix at that point is to cut the tubing below the ferrule and start over with a new ferrule. Following this tip will result in far less frustration and fewer trips to the store to get a new fitting (or ferrule).
Very good advice. Compression fittings will stay on fine and often not even leak if even done hand tight - at least in the UK. I believe water pressure to the property is often higher in the USA though, so I wouldn't state my claim universally.
How do you put the connector on between the pipe. Are the pipe that flexible to put the connector in between the two ends? I mean the video show one end stationary and the other end is free to move. Are the copper pipe that flexible that I can somehow get both end of the pipe into the connector? I hope you know what I mean. Thanks in advance.
I know what you mean. And the answer is no. There often is not enough give on the two pipe ends to spread it apart enough to use a compression fitting.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT follow that advice. If you do it will leak for sure. If you don't believe me or the others that have said the same thing, go try it, but make sure you have a tubing cutter and some extra ferrules because you will need them.
Hey Tony. I'm repairing a leak in 1/2 inch copper tubing. Got the leak cut out. Tried 1/2 inch push fitting, but it was too loose. Leak city. Then I got 1/2 inch compression fittings. Everything fits, except the sea rings. They won't go on the copper tubing. What's my next move, please? Thanks. 💖
Not sure without seeing it. Thing to keep in mind is the different sizes of copper. Standard half inch copper has an outside diameter of 5/8”. But there are other copper pipes that will have a 1/2” outside diameter. Be sure of your size. Thanks for watching
There are different sizes of copper. For plumbing we measure the inside diameter. So a 1/2 inch copper has a 5/8 outside diameter. There is a size that is 1/2 outside diameter but it is typically used in other applications outside of plumbing. Such as refrigeration. Hope that helps.
What about the little flared tube that comes with the compression fitting? Is that just for shipping or do you use that as well? I noticed in the video there was not one? Thank you
Well it’s certainly possible. You also have to make sure to use the plastic feral on any plastic tubing because the brass ones will cut the plastic. The plastic ferals are different than brass with it having a tapered shape. Always be sure the smaller tapered side faces the fitting.
Never need to put anything on the threads in this kind of fitting. It's a demountable fitting. The part that is sealing is the ferule when it is crushed against the pipe and the fitting. Some people will add their chosen sealant or ptfe to the ferule but it almost always unnecessary unless you have a pipe with a defect. An 11 year old girl should have the required strength to tighten a compression fitting with a normal sized wrench - do not overtighten . The UK uses compression fittings alot so we are experts on them.
Absolutely not. You could use a food grade sealant in place of the green stuff. And under normal residential circumstances the green stuff would be fine since it’s such a small amount. But as a general question the answer is no
The compression fitting that you show in the picture with a built-in "olive" is what I had questions about. You should show what you are going to demonstrate.
Well done. However, don't advise to use the box end of a combination wrench. Imagine realizing after the joint is made up that the wrench is captive on the fitting!
Well you’ve got to be a pretty good moron to do that to your self, but at least you’d be proud of yourself for being the best at something 😂😂😂😂😂. All seriousness Yes you should use the open end ,but with wrenches with about as small of a opening as possible that also have teeth lining it for grip ..
Your right side was a half turn past hand tight and your left was over a full turn past hand tight. I guess it's better to tighten a half turn and if it's leaking, tighten a tad more until the drip is gone.
Well made and presented but, a lot of bad advice in this video. If you lubricate the threads and crank down, you will likely crack the tubing and the connection may fail and leak. Using lubricant on the threads lowers the friction and will likely result in over-torquing. Check with the manufacturer of the fittings for proper torque or, usually the amount of turning after hand tight. NEVER "CRANK DOWN" ON A COMPRSSION FITTING! Nothing wrong with compression fittings if installed correctly.
Why are you watching videos instead of making them ? In 32 years I’ve had one compression fitting leak. You know what the fix was? Tighten it some more
You are correct. That is why torque values are sometimes listed with different values if anti-seize is applied. The compound reduces friction in the threads, requiring more torque to be placed on the threads, which places more pressure on the ferrule in a longitudinal direction, which in turn over-expands the ferrule laterally and potentially crimps the pipe.
compression fittings are great, just like you never get a leak at an angle stop or stop valve under the sink with compression fittings. I'd say if there is any "leak", it's either due to cross-threading, or not tightening with enough force, so make sure you carefully check for leaks after you are done. Also, don't be afraid to "over-tighten" a compression fitting, because even if you do break thread by overtightening, you'll only notice it after you take the fitting off, and it will not leak beforehand.
After a hand tight, I see that the man is still turning the nut a lot more and I would say he is over tightening it. after hand tight, I would say from experience one more full turn is very tight already.
Every manufacturer‘s instructions and plumbing manual I have seen explicitly states NEVER USE PIPE JOINT COMPOUND ON COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I friction between the ferrule, the pipe, the nut and the fitting body is rewired to get a tight seal. I have to question this presenter's competence in this area.
Did I say to put it on the pipe and ferrul ? No I didn’t. I say to put a little bit on the male threads for the nut. I even explain why. Did you actually watch with the sound turned down ? And wait , why are you watching DIY videos on a subject you’re obviously quite skilled at ? My competence has existed for 35 years. Kinda amazing considering I’ve never flooded a building with my incompetence. Troll on. Oh and thanks for watching.
appreciate the tip but the video isnt that bad.. my daughter operates the camera and does the editing we are real people who do this as a side gig .. we are not a pro production film crew ... thanks for watching
None of this videos show a realistic install on an old oxidized copper tube. It's always brand new stuff and you're never going to be 'fixing' new copper tubes.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Really? An old copper tube, oxidized, frozen and now swollen oversized and you assure me it works the same way? You must charge by the hour to make money.
Sorry, this is not right. The olive is doing the sealing. Use jointing compound on the olive. That’s totally over tightened. Over compressing the olive deforms the pipe and makes future remounting impossible.
Downvoted for asking me to click Subscribe before he's said anything useful. Why on earth would I want to subscribe to a channel before I've seen any of its content? It's like a waiter asking for a tip before he's brought the food.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 You could have used this as a learning experience. Instead, you double down on your incompetence. Disappointing, but ultimately not surprising.
this video kind of sucked. didn't tell us what your anti-sieze is made of. didn't say the chemistry interaction in the fitting pieces and surfaces. didn't talk about torque values. lots missing Dood. You can do better I believe in you. Make a new one. Do your research first.
I show similar videos to my apprentices on how to and how not to use various tools and the consequences in doing so? A good working practice is essential and should be taught to all who are learning to use hand tools no matter what trade they are learning?
I have NEVER cranked down on a compression fitting. Well... I did the first time I ever used one, and it failed. When I asked a plumbing buddy why it failed? It was because I over torqued it. He suggested: hand tight, wrench it a quarter to one half turn, that's all. Turn on water supply. If you have a minor drip, slowly tighten until drip stops. By over compressing you actually damage the copper, and the insert distorts, and it will never seal.
Why watch how to vids when you know everything ?
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Never claimed to know everything, but I do KNOW what has NOT worked for me and what is the opinion of all plumbers I've talked too. Nuff said.
I had small leak. I tighten the nut maybe with about 2mm of movement until the leak stopped. I did it twice before the leak stopped. I knew I was close to stopping the leak so I was making only small movement of the nut.
@@masterflowplumbing9812loose the ego dude, not helping yourself…
He should really take this video down.
I watched a video last week by a professional plumber in the UK. To my surprise he put both teflon tape and pipe dope not on the threads, but on the outside of the olive! Everybody knows the seal is not at the threads, so his method makes intuitive sense. His point was that the quality of olives has slid backwards over the years, and the risk of a callback is always a worry. For years I ignorantly used teflon tape on the threads, then stopped, and now it's funny to see the pendulum has swung back. Your method makes sense as well, it is more a lubricant that allows smooth torque.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I saw the same video lol. Same thoughts.
If you need tape or dope on the olive to prevent leaking, it means you're not getting a tight enough connection on the compression.
I find tape to be useful to prevent corrosion from freezing up the nut so it is too difficult to remove years later. So many junk valves sold at the big box stores that it's a wonder that the valves even work after a while. That and the tendency to leak in the open position are common failures I see in the field. Pay a little extra and buy Dahl shutoff valves.
You don't need anything other than the nut and the ferrule when using a compression fitting; you just need to compress the ferrule until it stops leaking. That's why it's called a COMPRESSION fitting. Putting it as tight as you can is 'guaranteed' to create a leak. All you need to do is tighten the nut enough to hold the fitting together securely, and then turn the water on and when you see it leak, and it will, tighten the nut slowly until the leak stops, then turn about an eighth of a turn more, and then STOP.
I work in Inventor and have used compression fittings in models but actually didn’t understand how they work. This is great. Thank you
Thank you for the compliment.
Very good video , refreshing to hear such modesty.. “I don’t know how strong you are but I have arms strong enough to break these measly coppah’ and brass fittin’s righten’ friggen two if ya know what I mean I actually have pretty strong arms from workin all them years on pipes”
Tight is tight. Broke is too tight
"do it up as tight as you can".....the only plumbing video I have watched that has ever said that. It is usually hand tight and then quarter to half a turn.
Hand tight and a quarter turn will get you flooded in no time
That has to be the worst possible advice you could give anyone about tightening a compression fitting. All that will do is create a leak that will never stop!
If there was a torque spec I'd use it
You're doing what a few other videos say not to do - overtightening! Others say hand tight plus one full turn only
One full turn on a pressurized water line will leak in most cases. I’m not sure why the “ minimum “ mindset is suggested by other videos. I just know how I do them. Hand tight and one full term is probably close to the feel I speak of.
Go ahead and try it yourself. You'll find most cases not getting them tight will cause them to leak. It's a fine line between too tight and just right, comes with experience.
I would never tell anyone to tighten the nut as tight as you can because that joint will be doomed to fail. The downside to using compression fittings that employ brass ferrules is, most DIY types that are not familiar with how much to tighten compression fittings will most always overtighten the nut, thus crushing the ferrule, resulting in a leak. I always tell those new to compression fittings to tighten the nut just enough to hold the fitting together under water pressure, usually about a half turn, and then turn the water on. At that point the fitting will most likely leak but, I then tell them to continue tightening the nut until the leak stops, and then tighten about an eighth to a quarter turn more. If overtightened, the ferrule will be crushed, and once its crushed it will never stop leaking. The only fix at that point is to cut the tubing below the ferrule and start over with a new ferrule. Following this tip will result in far less frustration and fewer trips to the store to get a new fitting (or ferrule).
Thanks for watching
Very good advice. Compression fittings will stay on fine and often not even leak if even done hand tight - at least in the UK. I believe water pressure to the property is often higher in the USA though, so I wouldn't state my claim universally.
Perfect! Thanks! Next time, I'll rrmember the pro tip of, turning the water off.
Doah! Thanks for watching
Great video! What kind of fitting can I use to install a 1/2" compression valve on a 1/2" threaded copper pipe?
They make compression valves that will do the trick
installed many of these in ireland, put some pipe sealer on the olive and crank.
Thanks for watching
If you need sealer on the olive you're not tightening enough.
Thanks for the tips! Trying my first compression tee install tomorrow.
Thanks for watching
How do you put the connector on between the pipe. Are the pipe that flexible to put the connector in between the two ends? I mean the video show one end stationary and the other end is free to move. Are the copper pipe that flexible that I can somehow get both end of the pipe into the connector? I hope you know what I mean. Thanks in advance.
I know what you mean. And the answer is no. There often is not enough give on the two pipe ends to spread it apart enough to use a compression fitting.
A really well explained youtube video, thankyou
Thank you and thanks for watching.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT follow that advice. If you do it will leak for sure. If you don't believe me or the others that have said the same thing, go try it, but make sure you have a tubing cutter and some extra ferrules because you will need them.
Never thought to use lubricant.. great tip,thanks.
Just spray a (small) amount of WD 40 or similar on to the (threads).quick and easy especially in confined spaces.👍
Hey Tony. I'm repairing a leak in 1/2 inch copper tubing. Got the leak cut out. Tried 1/2 inch push fitting, but it was too loose. Leak city. Then I got 1/2 inch compression fittings. Everything fits, except the sea rings. They won't go on the copper tubing. What's my next move, please? Thanks. 💖
Not sure without seeing it. Thing to keep in mind is the different sizes of copper. Standard half inch copper has an outside diameter of 5/8”. But there are other copper pipes that will have a 1/2” outside diameter. Be sure of your size. Thanks for watching
It's also a good idea to grease the ring with pipe gasket/joint sealing compound.
It can’t hurt
Bought a 5/8 compression fitting and when I test on 1/2 inches copper tubing it seems loose. Just wondering what size copper tubing are fitting
There are different sizes of copper. For plumbing we measure the inside diameter. So a 1/2 inch copper has a 5/8 outside diameter. There is a size that is 1/2 outside diameter but it is typically used in other applications outside of plumbing. Such as refrigeration. Hope that helps.
I am using 3/4” soft copper tubing in part of my compressed air system. How to I join one tube to another?
With a compression coupling
Are compression fitting affecting waterflow since the pipe is a bit compressed inside?
The magic 8 ball says “ most definitely not”. Thanks for watching
What about the little flared tube that comes with the compression fitting? Is that just for shipping or do you use that as well? I noticed in the video there was not one? Thank you
I believe your talking about the stiffner it is used inside plastic pipe to strengthen it so it don’t collapse when tightened. Not needed for copper.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Awesome thank you! I am using half inch copper flexible tubing to put a cooler on my air compressor.
Hello can you use this on a ac line ?
I can’t answer that. I do believe ac lines are going to be a different outside diameter tubing so it most likely will. It fit
Can compression fittings be used with older soft copper pipes?
Yes. Certainly.
Thank you!
I put 1/4 coupling on my fridge for the water line and its leaking. Wonder if i didnt crank it down enough?
Well it’s certainly possible. You also have to make sure to use the plastic feral on any plastic tubing because the brass ones will cut the plastic. The plastic ferals are different than brass with it having a tapered shape. Always be sure the smaller tapered side faces the fitting.
Are these tight enough to handle say r140a refrigerant at 125psi? Thanks!
I’d say no. Try using a flared fitting for that
Never need to put anything on the threads in this kind of fitting. It's a demountable fitting. The part that is sealing is the ferule when it is crushed against the pipe and the fitting. Some people will add their chosen sealant or ptfe to the ferule but it almost always unnecessary unless you have a pipe with a defect. An 11 year old girl should have the required strength to tighten a compression fitting with a normal sized wrench - do not overtighten . The UK uses compression fittings alot so we are experts on them.
Thanks for watching
If I don’t have thread sealant, could I use lithium grease on the threads?
Yep
Is the green stuff food grade?
Absolutely not. You could use a food grade sealant in place of the green stuff. And under normal residential circumstances the green stuff would be fine since it’s such a small amount. But as a general question the answer is no
The compression fitting that you show in the picture with a built-in "olive" is what I had questions about. You should show what you are going to demonstrate.
Do u go on TH-cam just look at thumbnails? Or to watch videos ?
I would think they would have a torque or number of turns after hand tight, never heard of "tight as you can"
Try your way and have some buckets ready
Well done. However, don't advise to use the box end of a combination wrench. Imagine realizing after the joint is made up that the wrench is captive on the fitting!
Lol. Stupid is as stupid does as Forrest Gump would say.
Well you’ve got to be a pretty good moron to do that to your self, but at least you’d be proud of yourself for being the best at something 😂😂😂😂😂.
All seriousness Yes you should use the open end ,but with wrenches with about as small of a opening as possible that also have teeth lining it for grip ..
Your right side was a half turn past hand tight and your left was over a full turn past hand tight. I guess it's better to tighten a half turn and if it's leaking, tighten a tad more until the drip is gone.
Thanks for watching.
thanks friend!
Thanks for watching
shouldn't you use PTFE tape?
No. I explain it in the video
Thanks for the video. Saved me from having to call my father in law. I think at this point he's not even going to answer if I did.
Glad I could help
Do have shares in that company? You use so much!
Are you a pipe dope regulator? lol. Thanks for watching
i always leave my fitting together an insert on pipe then tighten an i always tighten mine tight like that akso
Thanks for watching
Thanks!
Yw
Great vid. Thanks
Thanks you for watching
Arnold credits his 3 sets of 10 compression fittings per day for winning him Mr Universe
Thanks for watching
Well made and presented but, a lot of bad advice in this video. If you lubricate the threads and crank down, you will likely crack the tubing and the connection may fail and leak. Using lubricant on the threads lowers the friction and will likely result in over-torquing. Check with the manufacturer of the fittings for proper torque or, usually the amount of turning after hand tight. NEVER "CRANK DOWN" ON A COMPRSSION FITTING! Nothing wrong with compression fittings if installed correctly.
Why are you watching videos instead of making them ? In 32 years I’ve had one compression fitting leak. You know what the fix was? Tighten it some more
You are correct. That is why torque values are sometimes listed with different values if anti-seize is applied. The compound reduces friction in the threads, requiring more torque to be placed on the threads, which places more pressure on the ferrule in a longitudinal direction, which in turn over-expands the ferrule laterally and potentially crimps the pipe.
You have no clue what you're talking about.
compression fittings are great, just like you never get a leak at an angle stop or stop valve under the sink with compression fittings. I'd say if there is any "leak", it's either due to cross-threading, or not tightening with enough force, so make sure you carefully check for leaks after you are done. Also, don't be afraid to "over-tighten" a compression fitting, because even if you do break thread by overtightening, you'll only notice it after you take the fitting off, and it will not leak beforehand.
Truth is compression fittings are very susceptible to leaking if not done correctly.
After a hand tight, I see that the man is still turning the nut a lot more and I would say he is over tightening it. after hand tight, I would say from experience one more full turn is very tight already.
And after 35 years as a licensed plumber I’d say you would have many leaks with your instruction. Appreciate you watching though
Thanks
Yw
1. 4:30 if I am using torque wrench. how much torque in nM I use to tighten the fitting
I think that’s variable with the size of the fitting and pipe type
Guess joining copper and plastic would be the same rules and equipment
As long as the outside diameter is the same it will work. There are also transition fittings to accommodate different outside diameter’s
Enough about you!
lol. Thanks
Thread tape works better, because it doesn't contain super-glue.
WTH? Green stuff has no superglue.
Wow so big so strong arms are huge
he man , manly man , i wanna see some of these spoon fed youngins try it for a day
Wow that green stuff is expensive.
Every manufacturer‘s instructions and plumbing manual I have seen explicitly states NEVER USE PIPE JOINT COMPOUND ON COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I friction between the ferrule, the pipe, the nut and the fitting body is rewired to get a tight seal. I have to question this presenter's competence in this area.
Did I say to put it on the pipe and ferrul ? No I didn’t. I say to put a little bit on the male threads for the nut. I even explain why. Did you actually watch with the sound turned down ? And wait , why are you watching DIY videos on a subject you’re obviously quite skilled at ? My competence has existed for 35 years. Kinda amazing considering I’ve never flooded a building with my incompetence. Troll on. Oh and thanks for watching.
😂
Compression fitting not really nessicairly needed for waterline for refrigerator ice maker.
Correct. Some refrigerators are now coming with a push connect fitting.
Wow 😂
Thanks for watching
Compression only for water? No gas
Never for gas. I have a video coming out in a few days on how to do flare connections for gas
@@masterflowplumbing9812 US compression fittings must be inferior in some way to European ones. They are used for gas with no issues.
Camera man!/woman you need a tripod. Stop it!!
appreciate the tip but the video isnt that bad.. my daughter operates the camera and does the editing we are real people who do this as a side gig .. we are not a pro production film crew ... thanks for watching
@@masterflowplumbing9812 got it.
None of this videos show a realistic install on an old oxidized copper tube. It's always brand new stuff and you're never going to be 'fixing' new copper tubes.
I assure you it still works the same way
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Really? An old copper tube, oxidized, frozen and now swollen oversized and you assure me it works the same way? You must charge by the hour to make money.
You never said froze and expanded. You said oxidized
Sorry, this is not right. The olive is doing the sealing. Use jointing compound on the olive. That’s totally over tightened. Over compressing the olive deforms the pipe and makes future remounting impossible.
Thanks for watching
Here today never coming back.
Bye
Bye
"Working with pipe all these years"!!! No one really
Thanks for watching
colin robinson became a plumber
And your mother became janitor.
Another camera operator filming from a boat on a rough sea 😂
Troll. Thanks for watching.
Downvoted for asking me to click Subscribe before he's said anything useful. Why on earth would I want to subscribe to a channel before I've seen any of its content? It's like a waiter asking for a tip before he's brought the food.
Eat a bug troll.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 You could have used this as a learning experience. Instead, you double down on your incompetence. Disappointing, but ultimately not surprising.
@@michaelbluejay First thing I notice we are not for sale.
You are garbage
Unreal, everything in this video is wrong
Yeah ok Thanks for watching
this video kind of sucked. didn't tell us what your anti-sieze is made of. didn't say the chemistry interaction in the fitting pieces and surfaces. didn't talk about torque values. lots missing Dood. You can do better I believe in you. Make a new one. Do your research first.
Gotta link to your channel ?
An adjustable spanner isn’t a correct tool to use and you proved it by slipping off the fitting so your video gets a 👎🏻 from me…
Thanks buddy. I appreciate you watching. Though I am curious that with your expertise why your watching diy videos
I show similar videos to my apprentices on how to and how not to use various tools and the consequences in doing so? A good working practice is essential and should be taught to all who are learning to use hand tools no matter what trade they are learning?
I agree mostly but I’m not making videos to teach plumbers. I’m trying to help homeowners who may be limited on tools to use
You talk too much
lol. Thank you.
I think we might have got a closer in shot if you used a satellite 🛰
Ok troll