Just a quick tip... if you will add a bit of water when you are sanding - using wet/dry sandpaper, of course - you will DRASTICALLY cut down on the resin particulates flying around. When I use water, there is little to no dust at all! Not to mention it does a better job :)
Thanks for the comment. Im very familiar with wet sanding but the sand papers I was using were not wet sand paper. In the past when I’ve wetted sand paper that isn’t classified as wet sand paper it falls a part.
Adding a few drops of dish soap to your bowel of water helps to keep the fine wet/dry from clogging. Just "rinse" the paper in your bowel fairly often to keep it washed. I learned this when dad fixed a ding in the fender. When he was done you could tell there had ever been any damage. (There was some hammering and filler involved, then glazing putty. That was left to set up and then he sanded and did the paint and wet sand.
20:29 Not sure if you knew already but those lines are caused by suction. See how the rough lines stop when it gets to the holes in the tail part? If you had put a hole in or next to the peg at the torso section, you would have created an early breather and not gotten any rough lines.
That is totally it I bet I’ve been randomly having that issue and it hasn’t happened enough for me to properly troubleshoot it. Thanks for the tip I will definitely try it.
One thing I noticed on my prints are, I feel they a tiny tiny bit "oily", super minimal (I'm not sure if it's due to the resin material or if after all the cure process, it should feel exactly like plastic). I pre bath them, then I washed them for 10 minutes (I use water washable resins) on wash cure station, let then dry over night. After it, I cure for 5 minutes or so. Also, when I say oily, definitely it's not the same when we just take the finish print from the printer that they have resin all over them. Now I'll test to cure then inside a transparent cup with water. Recently I saw technic.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I used your link, hopefully it gave you the affiliate sale. I had several other things as well based on watching your video. I’m now much more enthusiastic about sanding hard to reach areas of models!
You can mix your Resin of choice with babypowder (no joke) and get a paste out of your resin that matches the Model and you can cure that with your UV Lamp. It`s fantastic, believe me. I close my gaps in the model only with this method and its super.
Hey man, great tutorial on post processing resin 3d prints. Is Plastic Putty the same as Acrylic gesso? I used gesso to prime illustration boards before painting on them. I wonder if I can fill the seams (gaps) with gesso, thanks again.
For cutting resin I came up with a SUPER cheap UV box a few years ago to cure UV solder mask for my PCBs. It's an $8 toolbox lined with shelf adhesive aluminum tape (for reflection and UV protection) and a 5 meter strip of 5050 UV LEDs. It all runs off of a 12v pack and cost less than $20. It's got a huge internal volume and when closed there is no light leakage so I can put uncured resin inside and leave it unplugged and have no fear it'll cure accidentally. then when i want it to cure I just flip a switch and start the timer.
Fantastic video, really well done. It's worth considering using warm (not hot) water with just a little dish soap to also remove the oils from your hands and ensure better primer adhesion for the next step. Really looking forward to the next video 🙂
Hello, I'm printing a vw bus 1:43 scale and having problems with the side of the body , when it prints the side is deforming.What can I do, I've already tried to add more support to the entire piece and I've already tried with angles of 45 degrees and 35 degrees. But at the end It make some angle marks on it, Cheers
Thanks. Some people are very afraid of resin. If we use respirator and observe all safety equipment (like glasses, long sleeve shirt, gloves), will there be any problem in the long run? How many years have you been working with epoxy or polyester resin and have you had any problems during these years? AndHow often should we change the respirator filter? (For people who work with resin, paint, and chemicals so that no problem happens to the person). Thank you for your guidance in this regard
I’ve been using resin for 3 years now and never had any issues due to the fact I’m always safe and use proper protection. The recommended practice to change a filter by 3M (the one I use) is a maximum of every six months. I’m not using mine every day since I’m not always using resin or sanding. So I change mine every six months to be safe.
I use resin almost every day but I'm a messy dude so it's always getting in contact with my skin, even when I try to be careful. Luckily I haven't developed any allergic reactions yet. I use respirators but no glasses because they get foggy (really humid and hot weather here and the mask releases air upwards) I noticed that when I used glasses I was actually putting myself in danger because I couldn't really see what I was doing. I haven't used resin for more than a year but I haven't noticed problems yet
As someone a bit new on this hobby/business I see a couple of models for sale like this one and I wonder how copyright laws are lately with them. Will I get into protential trouble If I 3d model fanarts and sell figurines or sell the 3d models of them?
It sucks you can't get that G tool anymore anywhere. And no one else makes anything like it. I think I'm going to mod my daughter's old electric toothbrush to work as a G tool.
It always amazes me, how so many ppl have such big gaps. Just learn to support properly and orient the models ffs. I never needed to fill such large gaps at 3D printed statues/figures even with paper thin clothes or hollow prints. Thought I will see some new hacks about cleaning the pinholes from supports. If you have 0.5-1mm gap, just start over and think about the orientation...
i dealt with those huge divits until i swapped to Lychee slycer,,, just sayin your tips are just too large, u can use heavy on unseen and scale as u go up on detail
Agree with this. I use chitubox pro, which has option for heavy/medium/light preset. I found that using anything other than light causes the divots. So now i just use lots of light supports and if the piece is larger that I'm printing, I will just use a few medium supports in strategic locations with extra light supports... you can basically put as many light supports in as you want and it won't cause the divots.
@Jaosn Fuller free chitubox also has the light/medium/heavy presets. I tend to use Heavy for bases and the backs of prints and medium/light for front or delicate pieces. I just cover the divots afterwards. Easier for me than spending hours manually placing supports (Something that also increses the risk of catastrophic failure for me because I never mastered it)
@@Sasaroly hours placing supports? Does the free version of chitubox not have automatic support placements? I use automatic supports in the pro version and then use the feature that automatically takes me to overhangs that it couldn't put supports in to manually add them. Then I just throw in some more supports where I think it's needed. Afterwards I use pixel island detection feature in the pro version that detects islands per pixel to edit the pixels on each slice to clean it up....the pixel clean up is what takes the longest.
@@resresres1 Yes it does, but it only uses the support kind you selected (light if you have light selected and so on) thus you can't use it for precise placement as is, you have to go around manually adding/removing supports once Chitubox is done with the automatic placement. If you prepare multiple prints in a row it ends up consuming a lot of time. I rather prefer printing once with automatic placement and if I'm not satisfied with the results I get on it and start switching things up manually the second time. The other tools you mentioned, I get them with UV Tools
@@Sasaroly ah, well I found that it doesn't take me that long to add supports in after the automatic placement, because with light supports you can just throw in as many supports as you want, almost wherever you want, as the light supports don't cause divots, then I just add in some medium supports in strategic locations if the piece is larger (I almost never delete or even move supports in this method)....really take hardly anytime at all, even with multiple items on the build plate. Edit:. I guess I should say, that I do end up deleting some of the really tiny supports the automatic placement likes to put in and either redoing them or saving that spot for pixel edit.
Just a quick tip... if you will add a bit of water when you are sanding - using wet/dry sandpaper, of course - you will DRASTICALLY cut down on the resin particulates flying around. When I use water, there is little to no dust at all! Not to mention it does a better job :)
Thanks for the comment. Im very familiar with wet sanding but the sand papers I was using were not wet sand paper. In the past when I’ve wetted sand paper that isn’t classified as wet sand paper it falls a part.
Adding a few drops of dish soap to your bowel of water helps to keep the fine wet/dry from clogging. Just "rinse" the paper in your bowel fairly often to keep it washed. I learned this when dad fixed a ding in the fender. When he was done you could tell there had ever been any damage. (There was some hammering and filler involved, then glazing putty. That was left to set up and then he sanded and did the paint and wet sand.
20:29 Not sure if you knew already but those lines are caused by suction. See how the rough lines stop when it gets to the holes in the tail part? If you had put a hole in or next to the peg at the torso section, you would have created an early breather and not gotten any rough lines.
That is totally it I bet I’ve been randomly having that issue and it hasn’t happened enough for me to properly troubleshoot it. Thanks for the tip I will definitely try it.
One thing I noticed on my prints are, I feel they a tiny tiny bit "oily", super minimal (I'm not sure if it's due to the resin material or if after all the cure process, it should feel exactly like plastic). I pre bath them, then I washed them for 10 minutes (I use water washable resins) on wash cure station, let then dry over night. After it, I cure for 5 minutes or so. Also, when I say oily, definitely it's not the same when we just take the finish print from the printer that they have resin all over them. Now I'll test to cure then inside a transparent cup with water. Recently I saw technic.
Great video! I'd never heard of sanding twigs before, I can think of many ways I can use them!
Yeah they are fantastic. Glad I could show you something new. 😃
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I used your link, hopefully it gave you the affiliate sale. I had several other things as well based on watching your video. I’m now much more enthusiastic about sanding hard to reach areas of models!
You can mix your Resin of choice with babypowder (no joke) and get a paste out of your resin that matches the Model and you can cure that with your UV Lamp. It`s fantastic, believe me. I close my gaps in the model only with this method and its super.
Wow that’s crazy. Makes sense. Might have to try it.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe good luck and Greetings from Germany 😉
Came to say same thing lol.
Could you do the same thing with straight up talc powder?
This method is fantastic!
Nice video my biggest piece so far i just finished prep and sanding on is 27 pieces
Glad you liked it. That is a big model to have that many pieces. 😳
Really enjoying the process of this and can not wait for the completion.
Thanks so much. I can’t wait too.
Hey man, great tutorial on post processing resin 3d prints. Is Plastic Putty the same as Acrylic gesso? I used gesso to prime illustration boards before painting on them. I wonder if I can fill the seams (gaps) with gesso, thanks again.
I use 400-600 grit sandpaper on the uncured print. The support bumps file off like butter, much easier than doing it after curing!
For cutting resin I came up with a SUPER cheap UV box a few years ago to cure UV solder mask for my PCBs. It's an $8 toolbox lined with shelf adhesive aluminum tape (for reflection and UV protection) and a 5 meter strip of 5050 UV LEDs. It all runs off of a 12v pack and cost less than $20. It's got a huge internal volume and when closed there is no light leakage so I can put uncured resin inside and leave it unplugged and have no fear it'll cure accidentally. then when i want it to cure I just flip a switch and start the timer.
Fantastic video, really well done. It's worth considering using warm (not hot) water with just a little dish soap to also remove the oils from your hands and ensure better primer adhesion for the next step. Really looking forward to the next video 🙂
Hello, I'm printing a vw bus 1:43 scale and having problems with the side of the body , when it prints the side is deforming.What can I do, I've already tried to add more support to the entire piece and I've already tried with angles of 45 degrees and 35 degrees. But at the end It make some angle marks on it, Cheers
Thanks.
Some people are very afraid of resin. If we use respirator and observe all safety equipment (like glasses, long sleeve shirt, gloves), will there be any problem in the long run?
How many years have you been working with epoxy or polyester resin and have you had any problems during these years?
AndHow often should we change the respirator filter? (For people who work with resin, paint, and chemicals so that no problem happens to the person).
Thank you for your guidance in this regard
I’ve been using resin for 3 years now and never had any issues due to the fact I’m always safe and use proper protection. The recommended practice to change a filter by 3M (the one I use) is a maximum of every six months. I’m not using mine every day since I’m not always using resin or sanding. So I change mine every six months to be safe.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe thanks.
I use resin almost every day but I'm a messy dude so it's always getting in contact with my skin, even when I try to be careful. Luckily I haven't developed any allergic reactions yet. I use respirators but no glasses because they get foggy (really humid and hot weather here and the mask releases air upwards) I noticed that when I used glasses I was actually putting myself in danger because I couldn't really see what I was doing. I haven't used resin for more than a year but I haven't noticed problems yet
@@Sasaroly Thank you very much
As someone a bit new on this hobby/business I see a couple of models for sale like this one and I wonder how copyright laws are lately with them. Will I get into protential trouble If I 3d model fanarts and sell figurines or sell the 3d models of them?
Great video! When I cure prints with resin it gets a lot of dust on it, what can I do about it?
have yopu ever tried resin mixed with baby powder for connecting print parts?
How long did you put it back in your curing station? I fear of over curing…
Nice tutorial. Are you printing all of these solid? Seems like a lot of resin.
When using resin, do you have to prime them too or paint directly on the pieces?
Personally I always prime it makes an even coat of paint for me to lay down on my base layers and it shows imperfections before I start
It sucks you can't get that G tool anymore anywhere. And no one else makes anything like it. I think I'm going to mod my daughter's old electric toothbrush to work as a G tool.
Pretty good idea. I got it at a painting conference
I hate sanding, and I also tend to print smaller pieces, so I just use spray paint to prime them and just paint away. Haven't had any issues so far
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Doses3d suspended his Patreon for a while. He put out some great models. I recently printed his Akuma. Great content by the way, learned a lot.
Yeah I heard. That is why I just linked the model instead of his patreon. I hope he started it up again. He is super talented and I love his style.
big thx.... learned a lot
Vidéo intéressante, merci. Sinon moi je ponce avec un bac d'eau ça évite la poussière.
It always amazes me, how so many ppl have such big gaps. Just learn to support properly and orient the models ffs. I never needed to fill such large gaps at 3D printed statues/figures even with paper thin clothes or hollow prints. Thought I will see some new hacks about cleaning the pinholes from supports. If you have 0.5-1mm gap, just start over and think about the orientation...
i dealt with those huge divits until i swapped to Lychee slycer,,, just sayin
your tips are just too large, u can use heavy on unseen and scale as u go up on detail
Agree with this. I use chitubox pro, which has option for heavy/medium/light preset. I found that using anything other than light causes the divots. So now i just use lots of light supports and if the piece is larger that I'm printing, I will just use a few medium supports in strategic locations with extra light supports... you can basically put as many light supports in as you want and it won't cause the divots.
@Jaosn Fuller free chitubox also has the light/medium/heavy presets. I tend to use Heavy for bases and the backs of prints and medium/light for front or delicate pieces. I just cover the divots afterwards. Easier for me than spending hours manually placing supports (Something that also increses the risk of catastrophic failure for me because I never mastered it)
@@Sasaroly hours placing supports? Does the free version of chitubox not have automatic support placements? I use automatic supports in the pro version and then use the feature that automatically takes me to overhangs that it couldn't put supports in to manually add them. Then I just throw in some more supports where I think it's needed. Afterwards I use pixel island detection feature in the pro version that detects islands per pixel to edit the pixels on each slice to clean it up....the pixel clean up is what takes the longest.
@@resresres1 Yes it does, but it only uses the support kind you selected (light if you have light selected and so on) thus you can't use it for precise placement as is, you have to go around manually adding/removing supports once Chitubox is done with the automatic placement. If you prepare multiple prints in a row it ends up consuming a lot of time. I rather prefer printing once with automatic placement and if I'm not satisfied with the results I get on it and start switching things up manually the second time.
The other tools you mentioned, I get them with UV Tools
@@Sasaroly ah, well I found that it doesn't take me that long to add supports in after the automatic placement, because with light supports you can just throw in as many supports as you want, almost wherever you want, as the light supports don't cause divots, then I just add in some medium supports in strategic locations if the piece is larger (I almost never delete or even move supports in this method)....really take hardly anytime at all, even with multiple items on the build plate.
Edit:. I guess I should say, that I do end up deleting some of the really tiny supports the automatic placement likes to put in and either redoing them or saving that spot for pixel edit.