That was so much fun to watch. I have done this 40 times on Vintage British cars and it is exactly the same. You did great work on this and showed how easy it is. One can "clock" the back the the alt to make better access to the 1 2 pins but you also showing the way the pulley can switch. Super sweet work and you did it simply. I had several 1 wire alts and switched them to 3 wire to have the lamp and a way to use a resister & diode. So nice to go from 6 to 12. You have those super thick battery cables as 6v needs that. Anyway! Thanks for posting this. Bobby
Sir, I like your front brush guard and ball mount. Had one on a buddies tractor, and had two made for me and another buddies tractor. Mine being a TO 30, and my other buddie, I believe is a TO20. What a life savor for any tractor.
May I suggest, a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and gas tank. I'm sure it does some good, noticed one that almost looks factory made in another video. But heat is not a friend of gasoline. Enjoying my TO 30 in NE Ohio for over thirty years now. Thee, best investment of my life. Sporting a front bumper fabricated somewhere between 1992 and 2002. A twelve volt system and last year, had to put a clutch in. Running the same tires that where on it when I got it.
Good walk through. If buying an alternator, look for the "mini hotrod' Denso model since it tucks in the engine bay better. Some of the GM truck big alternators and bracket/belt situation puts the alternator case out where the steering arm will bang/break the case when going through rough terrain.
Very simple to do. Main thing is to replace 6V starter with a 12V starter or have it rebuilt for around $150. Replace 6V battery with a 12V battery. Swap your 6V light bulbs with 12V bulbs, and your generator to a 12V Alternator. If an 8N, 9N or 2N you will not need any resistors
When I converted mine I just changed the generator for an alternator, changed to a 12 volt battery and wound about a foot, more or less of stainless gas welding rod around a wooden dowel for a resistor and inserted it into the low voltage circuit for the coil. Started and ran fine without burning the ignition breakers.
There are a number of ways to go about it. I've heard from old timers that they would simply mess with the voltage regulator, turning it up to 8 or 10 volts and replacing the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt.
I always thought the conversion from 6V to 12V required a minimum of new parts. A resistor allows a 6V coil to run on 12V, except when the resistor is bypassed during cranking, to provide a hotter spark for starting. Most starter motors weren't changed either because they handled the extra current and cranked the engine faster. The generator, bulbs and gauges had to be upgraded to 12V however.
It can. It depends on how in depth you want to go with the conversion and how much money or work you want to invest. I had a resistor I could have added inline but I also had a 12volt coil laying around. To me, a resistor is another failure point. Another junction for terminals to corrode, etc. But it's all personal preference. You can wire one up in a variety of different configurations and still have success.
Thanks. I need to put a coil on my T-30 that's already been changed to a 12 volt and I didn't know where to hook up the positive side of the coil. I was told to hook it to the distributor cap, but I can see that is wrong now.
Dan, My TO 30 was changed from 6 to 12 years ago. I want to re[place the coil. Been having starting issues and wonder if it is the coil. Is my oil coil a 6 or 12V. Are all 12 volt coils the same ? Will appreciate answer
I'm with you until you ran the wire from the last terminal on the alternator (#1 or R). It is the red wire which goes to the key switch. Which terminal on the key switch do you hook it into?
My TO 30 was changed from 6 to 12 volt years ago. I want to replace the coil. Been having starting issues and wonder if it is the coil. Is my coil a 6 or 12V. Are all 12 volt coils the same ? Will appreciate answer. You are a very good speaker
not all coils are the same! besides 6 or 12 volt you also have coils with external or internal resistors. The easiest thing to do is buy a 12v coil with internal resistor. You can use an external model but you will need a ballast resistor inline. if using the factory 6 volt coil with 12 volts it will work for awhile but will fail. somewhere on the coil it should be painted or stamped if its 6 or 12 and if internally or externally regulated
Not sure but I think the way you hooked that up will cause the alternator to drain the battery when its not running. Old international trucks had gm alternators and the way they were wired is both of the small wires going to the alternator were hooked to the key switch. This way the field wouldnt have power when the engine is off.
It’s always worked reliably for me. No sparks indicating a draw when connecting the battery. Starts up fine after sitting for weeks at a time. Followed existing wiring schematics to wire it up.
@@junkinjames6345 Well if it works I guess its ok. Not sure why International always ran both wires to the key switch then. Ive always wired both wires to the key but evidently its not necessary. The international trucks had one wire going to the key and a short little jumper going from the one small terminal to the other.
@@junkinjames6345 I just bought a ford 2000 but it has one of the 1 wire gm alternators but the wiring is trash and I need to get it fixed up. I bought a new harness but the harness is for a tractor with geared transmission. Mine has the select o speed. It basically the same but it doesnt have the starter button on the transmission. I think it supposed to be on the dash but mine just has wires hanging.
The way you describe was probably meant to prevent back feeding and other issues. . When you turn the key off you know there is no power getting to it 100 percent. But that’s just a guess
That depends on your coil. Some are internally resisted. Some are external. If your paint isn't worn off, your coil will tell you if you need it or not. The fact that it's installed means you probably do. But you never know what someone else has done
Unfortunately I no longer own this tractor. From memory I did not change anything with the amp gauge wiring. You should be able to connect it in series between the alternator and the battery. If I find an example at home I'll film something on it for you.
Depends on your coil. Some are internally resisted. Others are externally. Have to read the coil to find out. But technically the higher voltage will shorten the life of them but I've used them for countless hours this way and haven't had an issue. Same with the starter. Won't last forever on 12 volts but will last many years none the less
It's a gm alternator from pretty much any 1970's era car or truck. Wiring diagrams are all over the internet. If you'd like an even easier installation, search the gm 1 wire alternator. As the name suggests. It only requires 1 wire to operate
Hey found a old REMY DELCO GM ALT but it’s not numbered 1 2 at the top terminal it’s says R F instead that the same thing ? it has the one big red wire one at back ect
@@oldviking6404 try looking up the part number on it if there is one. Early gm alternators were externally regulated. You want an internally regulated alternator. Exterior wise the two cases look nearly identical.
I have an Oliver 550 taht was converted prior to me buying it. The coil is hooked up on the coil + to the distributor. Should I look at switching it around?
@@junkinjames6345 thanks man. My most recent problem is it will run for a few minutes and then cut off. No spark for a few minutes and then start and run for 2-3 minutes.
@@bryanduke2144 after some online research go ahead and swap those leads around and see what happens. Apparently it will run either way but you'll get less effective spark if hooked up backwards and could damage the coil according to some
Original starter will work fine on 12v. It will spin much faster than stock. Keeping the started engaged for long periods of time may cause damage. Overall lifespan of the starter might be shortened as well. However, if you have a well tuned tractor that starts easily your starter will last years on 12volt.
@@junkinjames6345 okay, what about reversing the polarity of the tractor? If it was positive ground and now you make it negative ground, wont the starter run in reverse?
Great video , but I just don't understand why my starter dose not have to change ?? If I'm going from + ground to a - ground how dose my starter still go the correct direction?? I'm wanting to do this to my TO20 and found a full kit but not a good answer to how my old start will still turn correct direction?
m.th-cam.com/video/Og7nJq7BTc0/w-d-xo.html Here’s a link to a video that explains why you are able to keep the same starter I will say that putting 12v through a 6v starter isn’t great on it in the long term but if you have your tractor tuned up to where it fires almost instantly. Then the starter will last a good number of years the way it is.
@JunkinJames Thanks ! And yes she fires off great actually on the 6volts ! But my wires are about all needing replaced and my 6volt generator has just gone out after the last rebuild , So 12 volts seemed the way to go and replace all the wires. Now what if i put another 6 volt coil regulator in line with my starter ? Think that would help save the life of my starter?
If you want to drop the voltage I’d go down to 8 volts that will be safe on the starter but also give you more umph. Just be sure to use high quality copper cables. 6 volt systems had to carry more current and don’t like modern replacement cables meant for 12v.
@JunkinJames yes I have good wires and good cable connectors, going to do it right and nice like yours , it's a good tractor not going to be a rigged up nest of wires. Also it's all needed new wires . I think that's what killed my regulator was some wire insulation had come off . They are all original wire , it's time for upgrade and update
@@junkinjames6345 ok.. lol I'm not ignorant.. I can fix anything.. but I'm getting good spark to plugs. Compression .. and starting fluid straight into cylinders. I'm guessing it's the cam? Timing chain.. something . I been working on cars trucks forever.. this just has me baffled.. first tractor.. not familiar with this motor. Guess I'm pulling gas tank to check valves.. gotta be something dumb.
Hi, the video shows where to put the coil wires. You'll have one coleing from the battery to the coil and one coming from the coil to your points to open and close the contelact. If you currently have a positive ground system and are swapping to negative ground, simply swap the wires on the positive and negative studs of the coil. Positive being battery power and negative being the points on a 12volt negative earth system.
Your video is fantastic. I am going to change my 420w John Deere to 12 volts. Mine is going to be a one wire generator and no light but I will be useing an amp. guage. Could you put something on here to show me how to do that. I would appreciate it very much. Just a drawing would help. thank you I can send you my e-mail address..
Hi, thank you for your kind words. I'm glad I could help. Unfortunately youtube will net let me post a diagram here in the comments, but I can paste a link that will take you to a basic layout using an amp guage. Let me know if you have any further questions. www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordification.com%2Ftech%2Fammeter.htm&psig=AOvVaw01-d8yWPcXf1srak18oZsY&ust=1676353689873000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8QjRxqFwoTCPjZ8qPmkf0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE
That was so much fun to watch. I have done this 40 times on Vintage British cars and it is exactly the same. You did great work on this and showed how easy it is. One can "clock" the back the the alt to make better access to the 1 2 pins but you also showing the way the pulley can switch. Super sweet work and you did it simply. I had several 1 wire alts and switched them to 3 wire to have the lamp and a way to use a resister & diode. So nice to go from 6 to 12. You have those super thick battery cables as 6v needs that. Anyway! Thanks for posting this. Bobby
Thank you so much for the positive feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed!
Sir, I like your front brush guard and ball mount. Had one on a buddies tractor, and had two made for me and another buddies tractor. Mine being a TO 30, and my other buddie, I believe is a TO20. What a life savor for any tractor.
May I suggest, a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and gas tank. I'm sure it does some good, noticed one that almost looks factory made in another video. But heat is not a friend of gasoline.
Enjoying my TO 30 in NE Ohio for over thirty years now. Thee, best investment of my life.
Sporting a front bumper fabricated somewhere between 1992
and 2002. A twelve volt system and last year, had to put a clutch in. Running the same tires that where on it when I got it.
If you also converted to a 12V electronic ignition, you'd be surprised how much more pep that engine would have.
Awesome!
Step by step. Now I need to find one for a John Deere B. I think Rachel has one.
Great video! Thanks!
Good walk through. If buying an alternator, look for the "mini hotrod' Denso model since it tucks in the engine bay better. Some of the GM truck big alternators and bracket/belt situation puts the alternator case out where the steering arm will bang/break the case when going through rough terrain.
Amazing now my massey 44 special is running
Very simple to do. Main thing is to replace 6V starter with a 12V starter or have it rebuilt for around $150. Replace 6V battery with a 12V battery. Swap your 6V light bulbs with 12V bulbs, and your generator to a 12V Alternator. If an 8N, 9N or 2N you will not need any resistors
We used to split the alternator to turn the mount 180° (lucas) might be possible on this set up
When I converted mine I just changed the generator for an alternator, changed to a 12 volt battery and wound about a foot, more or less of stainless gas welding rod around a wooden dowel for a resistor and inserted it into the low voltage circuit for the coil. Started and ran fine without burning the ignition breakers.
There are a number of ways to go about it. I've heard from old timers that they would simply mess with the voltage regulator, turning it up to 8 or 10 volts and replacing the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt.
I maybe doing this soon
Its a good video
I always thought the conversion from 6V to 12V required a minimum of new parts. A resistor allows a 6V coil to run on 12V, except when the resistor is bypassed during cranking, to provide a hotter spark for starting. Most starter motors weren't changed either because they handled the extra current and cranked the engine faster. The generator, bulbs and gauges had to be upgraded to 12V however.
It can. It depends on how in depth you want to go with the conversion and how much money or work you want to invest. I had a resistor I could have added inline but I also had a 12volt coil laying around. To me, a resistor is another failure point. Another junction for terminals to corrode, etc. But it's all personal preference. You can wire one up in a variety of different configurations and still have success.
Thanks. I need to put a coil on my T-30 that's already been changed to a 12 volt and I didn't know where to hook up the positive side of the coil. I was told to hook it to the distributor cap, but I can see that is wrong now.
Dan, My TO 30 was changed from 6 to 12 years ago. I want to re[place the coil. Been having starting issues and wonder if it is the coil.
Is my oil coil a 6 or 12V. Are all 12 volt coils the same ? Will appreciate answer
I'm with you until you ran the wire from the last terminal on the alternator (#1 or R). It is the red wire which goes to the key switch. Which terminal on the key switch do you hook it into?
You'll have to get a multi meter out and probe for keyed power. You only want power to the alternator when the ignition is on
My TO 30 was changed from 6 to 12 volt years ago. I want to replace the coil. Been having starting issues and wonder if it is the coil.
Is my coil a 6 or 12V. Are all 12 volt coils the same ? Will appreciate answer.
You are a very good speaker
not all coils are the same! besides 6 or 12 volt you also have coils with external or internal resistors. The easiest thing to do is buy a 12v coil with internal resistor. You can use an external model but you will need a ballast resistor inline.
if using the factory 6 volt coil with 12 volts it will work for awhile but will fail.
somewhere on the coil it should be painted or stamped if its 6 or 12 and if internally or externally regulated
@@junkinjames6345 Thank you for taking time
@DurhamHumor.Could be a number of issues. If you are still having problems reply back and I can fill in the details.
Not sure but I think the way you hooked that up will cause the alternator to drain the battery when its not running. Old international trucks had gm alternators and the way they were wired is both of the small wires going to the alternator were hooked to the key switch. This way the field wouldnt have power when the engine is off.
It’s always worked reliably for me. No sparks indicating a draw when connecting the battery. Starts up fine after sitting for weeks at a time. Followed existing wiring schematics to wire it up.
@@junkinjames6345 Well if it works I guess its ok. Not sure why International always ran both wires to the key switch then. Ive always wired both wires to the key but evidently its not necessary. The international trucks had one wire going to the key and a short little jumper going from the one small terminal to the other.
@@junkinjames6345 I just bought a ford 2000 but it has one of the 1 wire gm alternators but the wiring is trash and I need to get it fixed up. I bought a new harness but the harness is for a tractor with geared transmission. Mine has the select o speed. It basically the same but it doesnt have the starter button on the transmission. I think it supposed to be on the dash but mine just has wires hanging.
The way you describe was probably meant to prevent back feeding and other issues. . When you turn the key off you know there is no power getting to it 100 percent. But that’s just a guess
What bulb are you using for a charging indicator lamp? You need about 1 amp to excite the alternator.
Just a random light I had in a bucket of scrap wiring. Did the job
My to20 has already been converted. It has a separate resister from the ignition to the coil. Do I need it or can remove it?
That depends on your coil. Some are internally resisted. Some are external. If your paint isn't worn off, your coil will tell you if you need it or not. The fact that it's installed means you probably do. But you never know what someone else has done
Can you show how you wired up the amp meter please?
Unfortunately I no longer own this tractor. From memory I did not change anything with the amp gauge wiring. You should be able to connect it in series between the alternator and the battery. If I find an example at home I'll film something on it for you.
Did you not need to install a resistor to keep from burning up the points?
Depends on your coil. Some are internally resisted. Others are externally. Have to read the coil to find out. But technically the higher voltage will shorten the life of them but I've used them for countless hours this way and haven't had an issue. Same with the starter. Won't last forever on 12 volts but will last many years none the less
hey just wondering what altenator is that and any wiring diagrams around on your system u made?
It's a gm alternator from pretty much any 1970's era car or truck. Wiring diagrams are all over the internet. If you'd like an even easier installation, search the gm 1 wire alternator. As the name suggests. It only requires 1 wire to operate
Hey found a old REMY DELCO GM ALT but it’s not numbered 1 2 at the top terminal it’s says R F instead that the same thing ? it has the one big red wire one at back ect
@@oldviking6404 try looking up the part number on it if there is one. Early gm alternators were externally regulated. You want an internally regulated alternator. Exterior wise the two cases look nearly identical.
Ok right on bud thanks
I have an Oliver 550 taht was converted prior to me buying it. The coil is hooked up on the coil + to the distributor. Should I look at switching it around?
Id say if it's running how it is I wouldnt mess with it. Unless the wiring is a mess and needs repaired or you are having no start issues.
@@junkinjames6345 thanks man. My most recent problem is it will run for a few minutes and then cut off. No spark for a few minutes and then start and run for 2-3 minutes.
@@bryanduke2144 after some online research go ahead and swap those leads around and see what happens. Apparently it will run either way but you'll get less effective spark if hooked up backwards and could damage the coil according to some
@@junkinjames6345 Thank you.
Ferguson 👍
So the original starter will operate at 12V without any problems then? It's only a matter of having and alternator and 12V coil?
Original starter will work fine on 12v. It will spin much faster than stock. Keeping the started engaged for long periods of time may cause damage. Overall lifespan of the starter might be shortened as well. However, if you have a well tuned tractor that starts easily your starter will last years on 12volt.
@@junkinjames6345 okay, what about reversing the polarity of the tractor? If it was positive ground and now you make it negative ground, wont the starter run in reverse?
@@ben91069 it will not. No worries there. Just 12v to cable on starter and ground through starter casing. It'll work as it should
Great video , but I just don't understand why my starter dose not have to change ??
If I'm going from + ground to a - ground how dose my starter still go the correct direction?? I'm wanting to do this to my TO20 and found a full kit but not a good answer to how my old start will still turn correct direction?
m.th-cam.com/video/Og7nJq7BTc0/w-d-xo.html
Here’s a link to a video that explains why you are able to keep the same starter
I will say that putting 12v through a 6v starter isn’t great on it in the long term but if you have your tractor tuned up to where it fires almost instantly. Then the starter will last a good number of years the way it is.
@JunkinJames
Thanks !
And yes she fires off great actually on the 6volts !
But my wires are about all needing replaced and my 6volt generator has just gone out after the last rebuild ,
So 12 volts seemed the way to go and replace all the wires.
Now what if i put another 6 volt coil regulator in line with my starter ? Think that would help save the life of my starter?
If you want to drop the voltage I’d go down to 8 volts that will be safe on the starter but also give you more umph. Just be sure to use high quality copper cables. 6 volt systems had to carry more current and don’t like modern replacement cables meant for 12v.
@JunkinJames yes I have good wires and good cable connectors, going to do it right and nice like yours , it's a good tractor not going to be a rigged up nest of wires. Also it's all needed new wires . I think that's what killed my regulator was some wire insulation had come off . They are all original wire , it's time for upgrade and update
Great! Keep us updated!
Will the voltage regulator stop it from starting? Mine is 12 volt.. but it's using the generator. Thanks.. it died suddenly...
If you are running 12 volts into a 6 volt coil it will eventually fry it or the points. Pull a plug wire and check for spark.
@@junkinjames6345 ok.. lol I'm not ignorant.. I can fix anything.. but I'm getting good spark to plugs. Compression .. and starting fluid straight into cylinders. I'm guessing it's the cam? Timing chain.. something . I been working on cars trucks forever.. this just has me baffled.. first tractor.. not familiar with this motor. Guess I'm pulling gas tank to check valves.. gotta be something dumb.
@@junkinjames6345 I figure it the same basic junk as my old Chevy trucks or Chevelle...4 banger boat motor..
Where coil wires go
Hi, the video shows where to put the coil wires. You'll have one coleing from the battery to the coil and one coming from the coil to your points to open and close the contelact. If you currently have a positive ground system and are swapping to negative ground, simply swap the wires on the positive and negative studs of the coil.
Positive being battery power and negative being the points on a 12volt negative earth system.
Your video is fantastic. I am going to change my 420w John Deere to 12 volts. Mine is going to be a one wire generator and no light but I will be useing an amp. guage. Could you put something on here to show me how to do that. I would appreciate it very much. Just a drawing would help. thank you I can send you my e-mail address..
Hi, thank you for your kind words. I'm glad I could help. Unfortunately youtube will net let me post a diagram here in the comments, but I can paste a link that will take you to a basic layout using an amp guage. Let me know if you have any further questions.
www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordification.com%2Ftech%2Fammeter.htm&psig=AOvVaw01-d8yWPcXf1srak18oZsY&ust=1676353689873000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8QjRxqFwoTCPjZ8qPmkf0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE
scam, the pulley is too narrow
Scam? What are you talking about?
The pulley is the original off of the tractor. How is it too narrow?