Silverado 2500HD Transfer Case Front Output Seal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2019
- Replacing the front output seal on a 2002 Silverado 2500HD. Pretty easy with the right seal driver tool. Love this tool!
Tool and Seal: ebay.to/2Zuzw0e
Black Headlights: amzn.to/2NvE1BE
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hello, My name is Brent Black. I work at Adapt-a-Case with my sister-in-law my niece and my nephew we are a small family owned business of four people. I just wanted to send my appreciation for the video you made using our M109R. It really was done well and a has a good clean image. Thank you from our family at Adapt-a-Case.
Thanks, I try to make good helpful videos. The tool works great. I am always looking for sponsorship to help grow my channel if you are interested.
Over 55k subscribers! They'd be smart to sponsor your videos!! I kno you make extremely useful vids, even for me who's been wrenching for 10yrs edit..... just looked up the tool and it's over 200 bucks.. ouch!! I'll just rig something up to hammer in the seal. If you own a transmission shop or something I could see it but for a few a yr not worth it
I just did this seal 4 months ago. Used a block of wood and a hammer. It started leaking last night bad after my first long drive. I was hoping it was going to be okay but it went in ugly and crooked. I came right here... And you had a new video for it showing me I did it wrong. Thanks.
Just ordered one of those seal driverS thanks!!!!
Thanks for the video it's not alot of resources on the net that show the output seal removal especially for 2007 thru 2013 GM vehicles.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Speaking from experience, I can see a tool like this as well worth the money, and less you want the experience of changing that horrible seal twice. I had bought another install tool that did not have the inner support ended up jacking up my seal I just found out last night. So I get to pull my driveshaft and yank that thing again.
Real pain in the neck.
Damn that seal went in nice
Thanks for the info!
Huge help! I have to do mine on the work truck. Thanks for posting this.
Awesome. Thanks!!
Tap a screw into it and pop it out. Works like a champ.
Nifty tool, I like it. I usually use a slide hammer to get those seals out. Drill a couple holes and use the lag bolt attachment. Boom, done.
From one busted knuckle guy to another, you should give serious consideration to getting a longer drive shaft. Especially since you are plowing with the truck. Lots of torque wrap on the rear end. Lots of stress on that front U-Joint and yoke. (actually both). If something breaks up there you know it's going to happen at the worst possible moment. That's how my luck goes anyway.
I believe they have a front driveshaft you can buy. It's not cheap. I have wanted to get the rear driveshaft lengthened since I lifted the truck. It just doesn't seem like the rear goes in far enough. The front doesn't go in all the way but it's a lot better than the rear one. I don't like drilling and putting screws into the seal. I think it increases the risk of debris and scratching the sealing surfaces. Screw drivers/chisels seem to get them out for me. Might take a little longer but I feel safer. I do want to get me a good slide hammer for other things.
@@mossman381 Yes. I was only talking about the Front of the rear drive shaft, sorry I didn't make that clear.
I only use the lag screw method on the seals that have a shaft sticking through the seal like what you are working on or like a typical pinion shaft on differential.
Slide hammer works well on the other ones too, you just use the little hook like attachment.
I bought one of those seal removal tools and broke it first time I used it. I swear I heard the seal laugh at me.
A drive line shop can just cut the ends off the shaft you have, weld weld them to a longer tube and balance it. I haven't done something like that in years but it used to not be that bad cost wise.
@@x-man5056 My rear driveshaft is aluminum. Not sure that is very unusual anymore. We don't have a driveshaft shop anywhere near us.
@@mossman381 Rear driveshaft on my 03 S-10/Zr2 is also aluminum. Being in a rural location does make it a bit more difficult but any shop that does rear end work can probably point you in the right direction. You could also contact the mfg of your lift kit for advise on this problem.
Jumping those hurdles beats walking home in a blizzard with your truck stuck on the road IMO. "An ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure". I've seen you defeat problems more difficult than this one friend. Doing the right thing frequently involves a pain in the rear in my experience and I'm certain yours also. :-)
Awesome video mossman! Helped me out alot and I also bought that adapt a case tool. My truck is stock and the cross member was it the way of my hammer room. The lip of my seal isn’t completely flush to the casing. Did you’re seal go in all the way or did you have a tiny bit of room between the seal and casing aswell? Hope to hear back from you! Thanks a lot brother! Cheers!
Can't tell you were the seal stopped. There should be a sound change when your seal is installed all the way. It will sound solid vs hollow.
Hey there ! Would you mind posting dimensions of the driver tool? Should be able to turn one no problem if we had the dimensions. Thanks so much, great video
Thanks 2019 Chevy Suburban.
I think that is a seal and a bushing almost. Do you think having a the drive shaft out more put a little stress on it? My 06 Yukon with the NP246 has 130K miles on it. I have a little up and down movement on my front shaft, but no leaks yet.
It's not a bushing because it provides no support for it. It just has two pressed type sealing surfaces which makes it really hard to install without a special tool. I have heard it's not good to run some transfer cases without a driveshaft. Even if you never put it in 4wd. Up and down movement usually isn't good. That sounds like a bearing. Mine slides in and out a little but with the mileage I don't think that is bad. It has no other movement. You sure you don't have some U joints that are getting loose?
Have you ever rebuilt a transfer case on a duramax? If you tear one open, please film it! Thanks
I rebuilt the transfer case in Darth Dually before I was on TH-cam. I believe that was the 263XHD. If I ever open another one up I will video it.
Hey man that's awesome, I have an 08 GMC with a MP1626XHD transfer case and I have the same seal I was wondering will that driver work on my tcase...one other thing is all the drivers I've seen where for trucks 2007 and older no 08 and newer
I think they are the same, but you can ask the seller of that tool if it will work.
@@mossman381 ok, cool
Great video and nice tool! How the farming coming along this year?
The farming is going. With our old equipment everything seems slow.
Can Anyone with this tool measure the step that protrudes to inset the inner seal? Would like to machine my own tool
Front seal traster case silverado 99 1500 1/2 ton
Would you please give us link to buy the tool
Links are in the description and comment section.
What fluid does the Duramax transfer case take?
Automatic trans fluid. Most of the GM trucks use ATF for transfer case.
mossman381 thanks man... I appreciate it!
Things that might help with a project like this:
Tool and Seal: ebay.to/2Zuzw0e
Black Headlights: amzn.to/2NvE1BE
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
I like it, but only install a seal like that once in every five years. Would I buy that tool . No. I would just use a large socket. Like I've been doing for 50 years. Never had a seal leak either after installing a new one. If I did this every day I would buy one.