Your video was longer than the time it took me to replace my switch 😉. THANK YOU! If I hadn't seen this video I would have been lost. This is very detailed and well worth the view!
Great video. Thanks for posting this. I just made the repair myself on my 2010 Ford Escape XLT, and it works great. However, I notice I still need to push in on the key a little bit when I crank it. Does that mean I need to replace the ignition housing, too?
So i did this today. Car started fine. But then as i was going to the store, i noticed heat coming from out of the vents, and the gap between the cd player/ ac housing area, and the driver interior plastic covers. Only thing is, i'm not running the heater. I came home, popped the hood, and the engine wasn't even hot. Last time i did this, i didn't take that bottom panel off (the one covering the under part, not the one covering under the steering wheel), and i had no problems afterward.
Thank you for the video, I have attempted the same thing yesterday with no luck, the car does not start (dash board lights are on, no crank). I bought even the Motorcraft switch to make sure the problem was fixed, but..
@@justlg3359 Lately I have to push the key in a bit to start the car, it will not start as usual. So I bought the switch, followed you steps and replaced it, simple and easy, made sure the key was in like you said.. However with the new switch on when I turn the key the dash lit up, but there is no crank...even when I push in the key a bit as I am use to. So I put the old switch back, until I find a solution.
Try putting some putty at the end of the part to that the key pushes in to start it so it extends far enough to push the key in far enough. It's probable the key no longer reaches the part that starts the car. Google it.
@@letty5515 I think it was the housing itself. Few days ago I couldn't start the car anymore, so I had replaced the ignition lock housing(without removing the airbag and removed the key lock so I can keep the old key) and now it is fine, the car starts like new. The new housing came with a switch and works fine. There is a video here, it was easy.
my 2009 escape was not starting at times but changed with a new switch then it would not start with the new switch and had to put my old one back in. has anybody had that happen to them?
Mechanics have already changed the ignition housing and the starter in my 2012 Ford Escape, and it's still doing the intermittent starting. Now I'm wondering if the ignition switch is not part of the ignition housing? If this is the simple fix, then I've wasted a lot of money.
Your video was longer than the time it took me to replace my switch 😉. THANK YOU! If I hadn't seen this video I would have been lost. This is very detailed and well worth the view!
Thanks I'm glad it helped!
I watched this video, and it helped out a lot. I had it done about an hour.
Great video. Thanks for posting this. I just made the repair myself on my 2010 Ford Escape XLT, and it works great. However, I notice I still need to push in on the key a little bit when I crank it. Does that mean I need to replace the ignition housing, too?
So i did this today. Car started fine. But then as i was going to the store, i noticed heat coming from out of the vents, and the gap between the cd player/ ac housing area, and the driver interior plastic covers. Only thing is, i'm not running the heater. I came home, popped the hood, and the engine wasn't even hot. Last time i did this, i didn't take that bottom panel off (the one covering the under part, not the one covering under the steering wheel), and i had no problems afterward.
Thank you for the video, I have attempted the same thing yesterday with no luck, the car does not start (dash board lights are on, no crank). I bought even the Motorcraft switch to make sure the problem was fixed, but..
But what happened?
@@justlg3359 Lately I have to push the key in a bit to start the car, it will not start as usual. So I bought the switch, followed you steps and replaced it, simple and easy, made sure the key was in like you said.. However with the new switch on when I turn the key the dash lit up, but there is no crank...even when I push in the key a bit as I am use to. So I put the old switch back, until I find a solution.
Try putting some putty at the end of the part to that the key pushes in to start it so it extends far enough to push the key in far enough. It's probable the key no longer reaches the part that starts the car. Google it.
@@letty5515 I think it was the housing itself. Few days ago I couldn't start the car anymore, so I had replaced the ignition lock housing(without removing the airbag and removed the key lock so I can keep the old key) and now it is fine, the car starts like new. The new housing came with a switch and works fine. There is a video here, it was easy.
@@2010VIA Thank you
I did everything you did an still not starting????
my 2009 escape was not starting at times but changed with a new switch then it would not start with the new switch and had to put my old one back in. has anybody had that happen to them?
Your problem is the ignition lock housing needs to change
thanks for your comment@@justlg3359
Hey where did you get that part? The ignition switch
I bought it on Amazon. Dorman part number 924-867 ignition switch.
Mechanics have already changed the ignition housing and the starter in my 2012 Ford Escape, and it's still doing the intermittent starting. Now I'm wondering if the ignition switch is not part of the ignition housing? If this is the simple fix, then I've wasted a lot of money.