I have to say, I have an 08 escape limited 4x4 290,000 miles. Replaced a wheel bearing, and catalytic converters. Been my daily driver since 2015, it's 2023. Love the little thing.
I have 350,000 miles. No typo. No major repairs. I bought it a yr later in 2013. Ford escape 3.0 Still driving it with good power and I live in the foothills. I’m always on the road.
Lot of people always say, it's a bad car, the bad, is the driver... Just need take care of it and it Will live for a long time, Just well maintenance and Will be ok for years...
I love my 2008 with the 3.0! No major repairs either! Only had to replace the muffler and front wheel bearings. I keep up with maintenance like fluids, brakes and battery. I think that makes a big difference!
235,000 here. 20k ago ford dealer claimed I needed a new transmission, $7k and 4 month wait on parts. I did the standard 3X drain and refill and it’s been fine since.
My wife's has over 200,000 and thus far the only thing I've replaced is the valve cover gasket, belt and the lift gate switch. I change the oil and filter when the computer tells me to. Other than that, it's a pretty good SUV!
Mine has 191k and it still has good power. Doing the subframe in front because it's NY and salty. Other than that I'll drive it til it quits. Best 1500.00 car I've ever owned
I have a 2008 Ford Escape, only 95K miles and the only trouble I had was the air conditioner broke, I paid about $500 to change it, and I want to run more 95k miles on it. ❤
I have 125,000 miles on my 2008 and I never had any of these issues. I looked up the throttle body and it's only $165. It can be changed in a half hour. Easy fix! Mine is still original so I don't know how accurate this is! Besides regular maintenace like brakes and fluid changes, I have only had to replace the muffler and front wheel bearings. Both were this year!
I'm not sure if all of this info is correct. My 2008 Escape has the 3.0 V6 engine that looks like the first generation. (Even though the body is Gen2, Ford didn't change the engine until a year later in the 2009 with the one that had VVT.) There are many reports of this engine and transmission lasting well over 300K miles. I've owned a 2005 model with the same engine and only had the sway bar link problems when the car had over 150K miles on it, and the engine still ran like new.
Back coils are always a pain. The elusive oil leak that 5 mechanics couldn't find hopefully the 6th one fixed the issue time will tell. After owning one I don't think I'd ever get another. I've spent probably 8000.00 on repairs.The elusive oil leak cost me the most in the long run at 5200.00 then sway bars, control arms ball joints with the remaining 2800.00. That of course isn't regular maintenance or tires, brakes and rotors, battery and of course sensors over and above that 8000.00. Yes it's one expensive ride lol.
I never had anywhere close to that! I think you ride it rough. How does an oil leak cost $5200 and never find it? I think you got hosed! Back coils are pretty easy. You just have to remove the intake. I had a Chevy Uplander and to get to the back of that, you have to take off motor mounts and pull the motor forward to get to the back.
Our 2008 has 150,000 miles. The only problem I've had is new struts and new water pump. It has been a reliable work vehicle, change the motor oil every 3,000 miles and the drive train gear oils every 30,000 miles.
Daughter has a 2010 Escape. The subframe is completely rusted out. Not drivable. $2,000 to replace. Rear frame rails big rust holes on inner side of each rail. Need boxed in. Haven’t a price for that yet. 114,000 miles. Subframe should be recalled. Nothing should rust that fast. Fords recall is to bolt a bar across for reinforcement. Already on but attached to rust. Where is this in your view?
Interesting how many of these videos use photos and videos that have nothing to do with the vehicle or topic. The price points seem like they just made them as they have no accuracy whatsoever. I have four of these models....
I recently sold my mother in laws 2012 Escape with 30k. My father in law bought it new in PA and drove it little before he passed away and then my mil drove it here and there until she couldn't trust herself driving anymore. It was always garaged and serviced at proper intervals I couldn't believe how rusty it was underneath given it's history. I didn't like driving it much either, although the 3.0L motor ran great and had decent power. I know of many that were junked because of rotted subframes not passing inspection
I have a 2012 XLT and I’m well over 200,000 miles and started having transmission issues(along with every other issue in this video besides the exploding glass and lift gate issues) about a year ago that has progressively gotten worse. I’ve had so many issues with this damn truck that I curse it out at LEAST 5 times a day. It’s been trying to die and give out in me almost since the day I got it. I got it in 2018 with 80,000 miles on it and the air went out literally on the second day. Haven’t been able to get it fixed since then because the type of repairs it needs are almost as much as it’s worth. So, imagine being forced to drive around with no AC in literal 100+ degree weather where your only option for air is to have the windows down where the only air being blown into the vehicle feels like heater air from a heater. 🤦🏾♀️🙄 Don’t get me started on how I’ve literally had to thread large industrial garbage bags through the edges of the sunroof because my truck and everything in it gets flooded with rainwater every time it rains. Even that didn’t work, though. I’ve still woken up and went to go and leave for work just for their to be a literal small lake throughout the entire floor of the car that’s around 2-3 inches deep. Along with all of my equipment for work(duty belt, bulletproof vest, extra uniforms, paperwork) and other personal belongings to be soaked.🤬 All in all, I’m grateful it’s still driving. Even if it’s only barely driving. 🤦🏾♀️😂
please accept my tip about having no a/c in your escape. blast your air on cold and leave it on the defrost setting, drive around like that and you will feel cold air. I do this when I don't want to waste more fuel than necessary turning my a/c. Passengers even sometimes tell me to turn my a/c off and they get surprised when I tell them that it's just normal air.
Mine is a 2011 with 220k trans slips a little when cold but once warm shifts fine no other issues other than light rust forming around wheel wells and the rear latch going out More than I can say for a lot of cars with equal miles
156k now on my 08 V6 Escape, had this for 6 years now, transmission was fixed a year in. After that only brake problems like the master cylinder and brake booster. They are great cars just not even close to Toyota's quality or reliability.
My 2010 Ford escape XLT, one will putter (as of it's trying to turn over) on cold starts for a couple seconds then fire up. Could be spark plugs? Also, the fuel economy cannot be as bad as what we're getting. We have begun to feel a lag in the engine while driving on highway it's very abrupt then driving resumes normally but it's definitely noticeable.. the vehicle has 115k miles one owner.. there are 0 codes being produced.. it's very odd. Oh and our steering wheel column is loose and if given a little force will pull out the entire wheel and column towards driver displaying the insides. How can I tighten down that column I've never seen or heard of this happening thank you I know it's a lot but thought I'd ask
150,000 miles? That's interesting considering I'm over 200,000. I did have to replace the transmission. That was my fault though for not checking how long the fluids were rated to last. Other than that ive replaced an a/c condenser, changed fluids at regular intervals, brakes, etc. Nothing major outside the trans.
But why, oh why does my 2012 Escape need to re-learn transmission and idle settings after disconnecting the battery? Takes about 30 minutes of driving around the neighbourhood, engine stalling at ever stop or release of gas peddle. Very annoying and even dangerous. Why no recall?
I would like to know where this guy got his info...I have a 2012 xlt escape with 1 recall. I have a little over 87k miles. If you take care of any vehicle they should last for a long long time. My BIGGEST GRIPE IS THE RUST ON BOTH SIDES OF MY REAR WHEEL FENDERS. I don't know why Ford wouldn't have put a plastic liner in the rear like they have under the front wheel well fenders. That's what pisses me off.
My FE has an issue with starting, I changed the battery but the car doesn’t wanna start and electronics don’t turn on, no dash lights or speedometer. Only one light is on, the airbag light but the rest of the car just acts as if it had no charge. But the battery is new. Everything is as it should, the car just doesn’t start for some reason.
Here are a few possibilities to consider: 1. Check battery connections: Ensure that the battery terminals are clean, tight, and properly connected. 2. Inspect fuses and relays. Check the fuse box to see if any fuses related to the ignition system, starter, or electronics are blown. 3. Ignition switch issues. The ignition switch is responsible for supplying power to various electrical components in your vehicle. A faulty ignition switch can cause a no-start condition and a lack of power to the electronics. 4. Starter motor problems. The starter motor is responsible for cranking the engine to start. If it is faulty or not receiving power, it can prevent the car from starting. 5. Security system malfunction. Some vehicles have an immobilizer or anti-theft system that can prevent the engine from starting. Check if the security light is illuminated or flashing. If so, refer to your vehicle's manual on how to reset or diagnose the security system.
My starter died when they were done giving it an oil change,,, right then and there paid 500 for new starter and 500 for new ignition switch ,, I didn’t have to get ignition redone but everyone kept thinking it was dead, so at the time I thought might as well
check ignition switch. Very common problem in Escape and other Ford cars around that time. Remove lock cylinder, there is a linkage behind the cylinder. It is made of cheap metal and cracks. It is not individually available but you can buy a cheap "ignition lock housing" which include this part
I have to say, I have an 08 escape limited 4x4 290,000 miles. Replaced a wheel bearing, and catalytic converters. Been my daily driver since 2015, it's 2023. Love the little thing.
Original transmission?
I just got the 08 XLT with a new transmission thing so far is a beast
Shock mounts rusted out on minez😢😢😢
@@direwolf1977 yeah sadly these things have a horrible reputation for rusting out from top to bottom I’ve noticed my roof has a tiny bit of rust
How often do you change the wheel bearings? How much at the shop?
I have 350,000 miles. No typo. No major repairs. I bought it a yr later in 2013. Ford escape 3.0 Still driving it with good power and I live in the foothills. I’m always on the road.
Original transmission?
Lot of people always say, it's a bad car, the bad, is the driver... Just need take care of it and it Will live for a long time, Just well maintenance and Will be ok for years...
I love my 2008 with the 3.0! No major repairs either! Only had to replace the muffler and front wheel bearings. I keep up with maintenance like fluids, brakes and battery. I think that makes a big difference!
I'm "only" at 302,000
Have you never lost power??
235,000 here. 20k ago ford dealer claimed I needed a new transmission, $7k and 4 month wait on parts. I did the standard 3X drain and refill and it’s been fine since.
We did the same just drain and refill.
I now have 375,000 miles. Oil changes do help and keep a maintenance log.
Years ago I fell in love with this model. Somehow it makes me happy to drive them. Test drive almost a dozen of them.
My wife's has over 200,000 and thus far the only thing I've replaced is the valve cover gasket, belt and the lift gate switch. I change the oil and filter when the computer tells me to. Other than that, it's a pretty good SUV!
Mine has 191k and it still has good power. Doing the subframe in front because it's NY and salty. Other than that I'll drive it til it quits. Best 1500.00 car I've ever owned
Price points are inflated and not to be relied on. Problem points are spot on yet my 2012 has 605k miles. Then there's that.
605K ! Oustanding!
Really?!
I have a 2008 Ford Escape, only 95K miles and the only trouble I had was the air conditioner broke, I paid about $500 to change it, and I want to run more 95k miles on it. ❤
Sometimes it’s the condenser and it does not turn. Quick fix.
I have 125,000 miles on my 2008 and I never had any of these issues. I looked up the throttle body and it's only $165. It can be changed in a half hour. Easy fix! Mine is still original so I don't know how accurate this is! Besides regular maintenace like brakes and fluid changes, I have only had to replace the muffler and front wheel bearings. Both were this year!
Consider yourself one of the lucky ones! 😂
I'm not sure if all of this info is correct. My 2008 Escape has the 3.0 V6 engine that looks like the first generation. (Even though the body is Gen2, Ford didn't change the engine until a year later in the 2009 with the one that had VVT.)
There are many reports of this engine and transmission lasting well over 300K miles. I've owned a 2005 model with the same engine and only had the sway bar link problems when the car had over 150K miles on it, and the engine still ran like new.
And if you live in the northern rust states, the front subframe tends to write out pretty quickly
Back coils are always a pain.
The elusive oil leak that 5 mechanics couldn't find hopefully the 6th one fixed the issue time will tell.
After owning one I don't think I'd ever get another. I've spent probably 8000.00 on repairs.The elusive oil leak cost me the most in the long run at 5200.00 then sway bars, control arms ball joints with the remaining 2800.00. That of course isn't regular maintenance or tires, brakes and rotors, battery and of course sensors over and above that 8000.00.
Yes it's one expensive ride lol.
I never had anywhere close to that! I think you ride it rough. How does an oil leak cost $5200 and never find it? I think you got hosed! Back coils are pretty easy. You just have to remove the intake. I had a Chevy Uplander and to get to the back of that, you have to take off motor mounts and pull the motor forward to get to the back.
Ha that's funny I been doing that with my 97 crv. Was looking at one of these for my wife. Only time will tell 😆
Our 2008 has 150,000 miles. The only problem I've had is new struts and new water pump. It has been a reliable work vehicle, change the motor oil every 3,000 miles and the drive train gear oils every 30,000 miles.
Daughter has a 2010 Escape. The subframe is completely rusted out. Not drivable. $2,000 to replace. Rear frame rails big rust holes on inner side of each rail. Need boxed in. Haven’t a price for that yet. 114,000 miles. Subframe should be recalled. Nothing should rust that fast. Fords recall is to bolt a bar across for reinforcement. Already on but attached to rust. Where is this in your view?
Interesting how many of these videos use photos and videos that have nothing to do with the vehicle or topic. The price points seem like they just made them as they have no accuracy whatsoever. I have four of these models....
I recently sold my mother in laws 2012 Escape with 30k. My father in law bought it new in PA and drove it little before he passed away and then my mil drove it here and there until she couldn't trust herself driving anymore. It was always garaged and serviced at proper intervals
I couldn't believe how rusty it was underneath given it's history. I didn't like driving it much either, although the 3.0L motor ran great and had decent power. I know of many that were junked because of rotted subframes not passing inspection
Agreed. Take car of your car and it will take care of you.
I have a 2012 XLT and I’m well over 200,000 miles and started having transmission issues(along with every other issue in this video besides the exploding glass and lift gate issues) about a year ago that has progressively gotten worse. I’ve had so many issues with this damn truck that I curse it out at LEAST 5 times a day. It’s been trying to die and give out in me almost since the day I got it. I got it in 2018 with 80,000 miles on it and the air went out literally on the second day. Haven’t been able to get it fixed since then because the type of repairs it needs are almost as much as it’s worth. So, imagine being forced to drive around with no AC in literal 100+ degree weather where your only option for air is to have the windows down where the only air being blown into the vehicle feels like heater air from a heater. 🤦🏾♀️🙄
Don’t get me started on how I’ve literally had to thread large industrial garbage bags through the edges of the sunroof because my truck and everything in it gets flooded with rainwater every time it rains. Even that didn’t work, though. I’ve still woken up and went to go and leave for work just for their to be a literal small lake throughout the entire floor of the car that’s around 2-3 inches deep. Along with all of my equipment for work(duty belt, bulletproof vest, extra uniforms, paperwork) and other personal belongings to be soaked.🤬
All in all, I’m grateful it’s still driving. Even if it’s only barely driving. 🤦🏾♀️😂
please accept my tip about having no a/c in your escape. blast your air on cold and leave it on the defrost setting, drive around like that and you will feel cold air. I do this when I don't want to waste more fuel than necessary turning my a/c. Passengers even sometimes tell me to turn my a/c off and they get surprised when I tell them that it's just normal air.
Mine is a 2011 with 220k trans slips a little when cold but once warm shifts fine no other issues other than light rust forming around wheel wells and the rear latch going out More than I can say for a lot of cars with equal miles
My 2012 160,000 I have only replaced the
Water pump
Those are all simple easy to fix parts and labor you know how to do it yourself eBay and Amazon cost way cheaper than dealer
156k now on my 08 V6 Escape, had this for 6 years now, transmission was fixed a year in.
After that only brake problems like the master cylinder and brake booster. They are great cars just not even close to Toyota's quality or reliability.
My 2008 has 243,000.
My 2010 Ford escape XLT, one will putter (as of it's trying to turn over) on cold starts for a couple seconds then fire up. Could be spark plugs? Also, the fuel economy cannot be as bad as what we're getting. We have begun to feel a lag in the engine while driving on highway it's very abrupt then driving resumes normally but it's definitely noticeable.. the vehicle has 115k miles one owner.. there are 0 codes being produced.. it's very odd. Oh and our steering wheel column is loose and if given a little force will pull out the entire wheel and column towards driver displaying the insides. How can I tighten down that column I've never seen or heard of this happening thank you I know it's a lot but thought I'd ask
My guess is fuel, injectors, pump or fuel module.
150,000 miles? That's interesting considering I'm over 200,000. I did have to replace the transmission. That was my fault though for not checking how long the fluids were rated to last. Other than that ive replaced an a/c condenser, changed fluids at regular intervals, brakes, etc. Nothing major outside the trans.
But why, oh why does my 2012 Escape need to re-learn transmission and idle settings after disconnecting the battery? Takes about 30 minutes of driving around the neighbourhood, engine stalling at ever stop or release of gas peddle. Very annoying and even dangerous. Why no recall?
There was a recall prior. Unsure what it was for. You can look it up yourself and find out about it
My 08 Ford escape electric power steering went out it was not covered by the recall and it sucked 3:29
around how much? and did it fix the issue permanitley?
I would like to know where this guy got his info...I have a 2012 xlt escape with 1 recall. I have a little over 87k miles. If you take care of any vehicle they should last for a long long time. My BIGGEST GRIPE IS THE RUST ON BOTH SIDES OF MY REAR WHEEL FENDERS. I don't know why Ford wouldn't have put a plastic liner in the rear like they have under the front wheel well fenders. That's what pisses me off.
How can I tell if my 2011 ford escape has any recalls
Call the Ford dealer and give the VIN number to them. They able to tell you.
You can look it up yourself.
Only lasting 150000 miles seriously Ford what happened to quality and trust
My car has 650,000 miles on it
Are you serious? What year?
My FE has an issue with starting, I changed the battery but the car doesn’t wanna start and electronics don’t turn on, no dash lights or speedometer. Only one light is on, the airbag light but the rest of the car just acts as if it had no charge. But the battery is new.
Everything is as it should, the car just doesn’t start for some reason.
Here are a few possibilities to consider:
1. Check battery connections: Ensure that the battery terminals are clean, tight, and properly connected.
2. Inspect fuses and relays. Check the fuse box to see if any fuses related to the ignition system, starter, or electronics are blown.
3. Ignition switch issues. The ignition switch is responsible for supplying power to various electrical components in your vehicle. A faulty ignition switch can cause a no-start condition and a lack of power to the electronics.
4. Starter motor problems. The starter motor is responsible for cranking the engine to start. If it is faulty or not receiving power, it can prevent the car from starting.
5. Security system malfunction. Some vehicles have an immobilizer or anti-theft system that can prevent the engine from starting. Check if the security light is illuminated or flashing. If so, refer to your vehicle's manual on how to reset or diagnose the security system.
My starter died when they were done giving it an oil change,,, right then and there paid 500 for new starter and 500 for new ignition switch ,, I didn’t have to get ignition redone but everyone kept thinking it was dead, so at the time I thought might as well
check ignition switch. Very common problem in Escape and other Ford cars around that time. Remove lock cylinder, there is a linkage behind the cylinder. It is made of cheap metal and cracks. It is not individually available but you can buy a cheap "ignition lock housing" which include this part
A grounding issue maybe?
Your part prices are way off! Can buy the master cylinder, blower motor, and both control arms for under $200 all together.
Are those from a junkyard or remanufactured? Because autozone cost more than $200 and direct from ford even more
@@matty_o Reman and or new. Shop around. My daughter drives one of these and I know exactly what the cost is for these parts.
@@rodneymoore6180 Blower $92, Master $128, control arm $95 = $410. That is Ford prices! Cheaper after market.
True, parts for this Ford are really cheap.@@rodneymoore6180
Found On Road Dead
LMAO...... 150'000 miles????? Mine has 191'000 on it.
I’m at 288k miles 🤷🏻♀️😂 I mean she’s got a 3 year old transmission and normal replacements otherwise but OG engine.
Mine has a little over 200k miles, but transmision was already repaired
Mine has 194k no issues
Do not buy one unless you put it on the rack and look at the underside front end subframe passenger side. Rust. Rust. Rust.
lol well mine must be on the juice at 190k.
This information is wildly inaccurate
Holy shit car
Throw it in the garbage better 😂😂😂😂
Thats rich, coming from a beamer guy
A BMW won't make it this long! 🤣 This video is bs.
@seeya205 whatever these shits is the worst in car world not even enjoy driving 🤣🤣🤣
@@Sroor2023 So you haven't even driven one! Got it!
@@Sroor2023buddy is a bimmer talking about shit cars☠️. How about you go fix your blown valve cover gasket
thats mean its junk.junk junk.