My new ignition lock assembly - supposedly for a 2010 Ford Escape (the vehicle I have) - the new key cylinder hole was too short for the key cylinder. I measured both the old and new ones and the new one was clearly too short. So I'm stuck.
Perhaps not, but it is one of the many on amazon (including your suggestion)... I cannot tell any difference by looking at amazon, and they all say that they are for 2008 - 2012 Escape. Not complaining about your video - it was very useful....
@@MarkClaussen That's interesting, I would think the item may be in correct and try to exchange it with Amazon. If it's still the case I'd try to get a new lock assembly to go with it. Glad to hear that this video actually is helpful though. When I first made this nobody watched it for the longest time and then suddenly it started getting a lot of views.
Yes, I certainly was glad I found your video, since I didn't really want to pull the steering wheel (though I suppose I could have done that if necessary). With your video, didn't seem to be necessary. Thanks. (I'm looking into returning/getting another assembly.)
4:40 Loose shaft comparison: new vs old. Would have been nice to see how much rotational slop there was since translation slop has nothing to do with rotating the ignition switch. (I really want to tear one of these modules apart to see what wears out. NOTE: that translational slop could be eliminated by making a small bushing to slide over the shaft - there is a bore around it that would make a bushing possible.)
@@AnythingWheeled It's much more mysterious: 1) The switch has a plunger inside the bore where the blade/spline is inserted - what does the plunger do?, 2) the tip of the blade has a bore with a little white plastic "pin" sticks out a tiny bit - if you push the key in, this bit sticks out further - does it have something to do with the switch plunger?, 3) with the pawl in lock position, there is very little rotational slop in the blade, BUT if I push the pawl in, there is great rotational slop - what does this mean? (NOTE: I don't have the key for this junkyard module so it is in the lock position.)
@@AnythingWheeled Do you have to turn the key to see that movement? I don't have the key for the junk yard module so the little white pin maybe moves 1/16" at most outward when push key in.
@@NoferTrunions I recall the white nub that pops out is from insertion of the key, pull the key out the white nub retracts. (I may be totally off base on my memory here... 😅)
No, I only the steering column lock assembly and the ignition switch itself was swapped. The key cylinder was ported over with the original immobilizer sensor ring.
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You said thw ignition lock light was on what if mine isn't on but it still doesn't turn on like yours. Its not the battery.
This video is exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you so much! :D
Happy to hear this was helpful!
My new ignition lock assembly - supposedly for a 2010 Ford Escape (the vehicle I have) - the new key cylinder hole was too short for the key cylinder. I measured both the old and new ones and the new one was clearly too short. So I'm stuck.
Are you sure you got the correct part?
Perhaps not, but it is one of the many on amazon (including your suggestion)... I cannot tell any difference by looking at amazon, and they all say that they are for 2008 - 2012 Escape. Not complaining about your video - it was very useful....
Should have also said that, as far as I can tell, this is the *only* difference in the ignition lock assembly between the new and the old.
@@MarkClaussen That's interesting, I would think the item may be in correct and try to exchange it with Amazon. If it's still the case I'd try to get a new lock assembly to go with it. Glad to hear that this video actually is helpful though. When I first made this nobody watched it for the longest time and then suddenly it started getting a lot of views.
Yes, I certainly was glad I found your video, since I didn't really want to pull the steering wheel (though I suppose I could have done that
if necessary). With your video, didn't seem to be necessary. Thanks. (I'm looking into returning/getting another assembly.)
Don’t u have to get a new replacement key or re program key for the new ignition
Nope I reused the original PATS sensor thing (security chip immobilizer thing) and the key cylinder.
Super good job ✔️💯
Thank you
4:40 Loose shaft comparison: new vs old. Would have been nice to see how much rotational slop there was since translation slop has nothing to do with rotating the ignition switch. (I really want to tear one of these modules apart to see what wears out. NOTE: that translational slop could be eliminated by making a small bushing to slide over the shaft - there is a bore around it that would make a bushing possible.)
Ah good point, it's a shame I actually threw it away instead of hoarding stuff like I usually do...
@@AnythingWheeled It's much more mysterious:
1) The switch has a plunger inside the bore where the blade/spline is inserted - what does the plunger do?,
2) the tip of the blade has a bore with a little white plastic "pin" sticks out a tiny bit - if you push the key in, this bit sticks out further - does it have something to do with the switch plunger?,
3) with the pawl in lock position, there is very little rotational slop in the blade, BUT if I push the pawl in, there is great rotational slop - what does this mean?
(NOTE: I don't have the key for this junkyard module so it is in the lock position.)
@@NoferTrunions I vaguely remember the white plunger that comes out to trigger the steering lock when it retracts inward.
@@AnythingWheeled Do you have to turn the key to see that movement? I don't have the key for the junk yard module so the little white pin maybe moves 1/16" at most outward when push key in.
@@NoferTrunions I recall the white nub that pops out is from insertion of the key, pull the key out the white nub retracts. (I may be totally off base on my memory here... 😅)
Did you replace the security imobilizer?
No, I only the steering column lock assembly and the ignition switch itself was swapped. The key cylinder was ported over with the original immobilizer sensor ring.
LOL, you could leave the ignition switch hanging and use a screwdriver to operate the switch (!)
Sure can, the key is just allowing you to turn a built in flathead screwdriver
You could also just drill the head off of the screw/bolt
I forget if it was easy to get at with a drill but I think this was faster than drilling a bolt head that size.