My new ignition lock assembly - supposedly for a 2010 Ford Escape (the vehicle I have) - the new key cylinder hole was too short for the key cylinder. I measured both the old and new ones and the new one was clearly too short. So I'm stuck.
Perhaps not, but it is one of the many on amazon (including your suggestion)... I cannot tell any difference by looking at amazon, and they all say that they are for 2008 - 2012 Escape. Not complaining about your video - it was very useful....
@@MarkClaussen That's interesting, I would think the item may be in correct and try to exchange it with Amazon. If it's still the case I'd try to get a new lock assembly to go with it. Glad to hear that this video actually is helpful though. When I first made this nobody watched it for the longest time and then suddenly it started getting a lot of views.
Yes, I certainly was glad I found your video, since I didn't really want to pull the steering wheel (though I suppose I could have done that if necessary). With your video, didn't seem to be necessary. Thanks. (I'm looking into returning/getting another assembly.)
STEP 1: Disconnect the battery - You're fooling around inside the steering column air bag area. STEP 2: Wait a few minutes for the system to dissipate capacitor charge. STEP 3 - Now start taking the ignition out.
I've been having problems with this for a long time on my 2011 ford escape and have had to do the electrical tape trick to start it. I've replaced the ignition switch and the ignition lock cylinder and it still won't work correctly. When I stick something in the ignition switch and turn it with the key by the security thing it won't start either. it doesn't make any sense and nobody knows about this issue. maybe I need to replace the entire assembly, but I don't understand why mine won't start like yours did when sticking something untonthr ignition switch to turn it.
4:40 Loose shaft comparison: new vs old. Would have been nice to see how much rotational slop there was since translation slop has nothing to do with rotating the ignition switch. (I really want to tear one of these modules apart to see what wears out. NOTE: that translational slop could be eliminated by making a small bushing to slide over the shaft - there is a bore around it that would make a bushing possible.)
@@AnythingWheeled It's much more mysterious: 1) The switch has a plunger inside the bore where the blade/spline is inserted - what does the plunger do?, 2) the tip of the blade has a bore with a little white plastic "pin" sticks out a tiny bit - if you push the key in, this bit sticks out further - does it have something to do with the switch plunger?, 3) with the pawl in lock position, there is very little rotational slop in the blade, BUT if I push the pawl in, there is great rotational slop - what does this mean? (NOTE: I don't have the key for this junkyard module so it is in the lock position.)
@@AnythingWheeled Do you have to turn the key to see that movement? I don't have the key for the junk yard module so the little white pin maybe moves 1/16" at most outward when push key in.
@@NoferTrunions I recall the white nub that pops out is from insertion of the key, pull the key out the white nub retracts. (I may be totally off base on my memory here... 😅)
No, I only the steering column lock assembly and the ignition switch itself was swapped. The key cylinder was ported over with the original immobilizer sensor ring.
NO! Starting it is NOT about turning the ignition switch. If you look carefully, there is a tiny white plastic pin in the lock module that when you turn to START, it extends and PUSHES into the ignition switch - there is another contact that is linear instead or rotatory (perhaps part of anti-theft?). What happens is the push pin does not extend enough - that is why "pushing in " the key will usually start the car. HACK: Carefully glue a thin "shim" onto the "bottom of the hole" in the ignition switch to compensate for the reduced extension of the plastic pin. Worth doing because R&Ring the switch is EZ.
It's been a while but I remember the white nub you are referring to at the end. I believe that disengaged the steering column lock pawl. I was able to start the car simply by turning the switch without having to press in anything
@@AnythingWheeled How did you rotate the ignition switch? Did you insert a screwdriver? Good chance it pushed the "bottom" of the hole in - it should be very easy to push considering how fragile that white push pin is. I found a lock module in junkyard with key in it. That little white "nub" pushes into the ignition switch only when you go from ON to START. (I'm trying to remember... it's very possible the ignition switch is also rotated from ON to START) Going to ON unlocks the column - this is before the pin extends. No idea WHY they would design a contraption like that. Would like to tear an ignition switch apart!
@NoferTrunions at 4:25 I used a flathead to turn it. I'm not sure now if it would have done what the white nub would do. It probably one of those things that makes sense to the guy that designed it or people that know more than us 😆
Hey dude, thanks for putting this up. It should really help me out when i do this in a few days.
So many people watching this now. It's interesting how popular this video has gotten since I posted it 😆
Great tutorial! Thanks for the help!
This video is exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you so much! :D
Happy to hear this was helpful!
My new ignition lock assembly - supposedly for a 2010 Ford Escape (the vehicle I have) - the new key cylinder hole was too short for the key cylinder. I measured both the old and new ones and the new one was clearly too short. So I'm stuck.
Are you sure you got the correct part?
Perhaps not, but it is one of the many on amazon (including your suggestion)... I cannot tell any difference by looking at amazon, and they all say that they are for 2008 - 2012 Escape. Not complaining about your video - it was very useful....
Should have also said that, as far as I can tell, this is the *only* difference in the ignition lock assembly between the new and the old.
@@MarkClaussen That's interesting, I would think the item may be in correct and try to exchange it with Amazon. If it's still the case I'd try to get a new lock assembly to go with it. Glad to hear that this video actually is helpful though. When I first made this nobody watched it for the longest time and then suddenly it started getting a lot of views.
Yes, I certainly was glad I found your video, since I didn't really want to pull the steering wheel (though I suppose I could have done that
if necessary). With your video, didn't seem to be necessary. Thanks. (I'm looking into returning/getting another assembly.)
STEP 1: Disconnect the battery - You're fooling around inside the steering column air bag area.
STEP 2: Wait a few minutes for the system to dissipate capacitor charge.
STEP 3 - Now start taking the ignition out.
Bought the part. Hope it works🙏
You said thw ignition lock light was on what if mine isn't on but it still doesn't turn on like yours. Its not the battery.
I've been having problems with this for a long time on my 2011 ford escape and have had to do the electrical tape trick to start it. I've replaced the ignition switch and the ignition lock cylinder and it still won't work correctly. When I stick something in the ignition switch and turn it with the key by the security thing it won't start either. it doesn't make any sense and nobody knows about this issue. maybe I need to replace the entire assembly, but I don't understand why mine won't start like yours did when sticking something untonthr ignition switch to turn it.
It's been a little while since I did this, didn't I have to have the key nearby the PATS reader thing when I did that?
Super good job ✔️💯
Thank you
Don’t u have to get a new replacement key or re program key for the new ignition
Nope I reused the original PATS sensor thing (security chip immobilizer thing) and the key cylinder.
4:40 Loose shaft comparison: new vs old. Would have been nice to see how much rotational slop there was since translation slop has nothing to do with rotating the ignition switch. (I really want to tear one of these modules apart to see what wears out. NOTE: that translational slop could be eliminated by making a small bushing to slide over the shaft - there is a bore around it that would make a bushing possible.)
Ah good point, it's a shame I actually threw it away instead of hoarding stuff like I usually do...
@@AnythingWheeled It's much more mysterious:
1) The switch has a plunger inside the bore where the blade/spline is inserted - what does the plunger do?,
2) the tip of the blade has a bore with a little white plastic "pin" sticks out a tiny bit - if you push the key in, this bit sticks out further - does it have something to do with the switch plunger?,
3) with the pawl in lock position, there is very little rotational slop in the blade, BUT if I push the pawl in, there is great rotational slop - what does this mean?
(NOTE: I don't have the key for this junkyard module so it is in the lock position.)
@@NoferTrunions I vaguely remember the white plunger that comes out to trigger the steering lock when it retracts inward.
@@AnythingWheeled Do you have to turn the key to see that movement? I don't have the key for the junk yard module so the little white pin maybe moves 1/16" at most outward when push key in.
@@NoferTrunions I recall the white nub that pops out is from insertion of the key, pull the key out the white nub retracts. (I may be totally off base on my memory here... 😅)
6 millimeter does work on these screws too
Much erasier cheaper and better to hook up a momentary switch and have push button start. Less than $5 and works every time.
That's thinking outside the box. I am too tunnel visioned on putting back the original way 😆
Did you replace the security imobilizer?
No, I only the steering column lock assembly and the ignition switch itself was swapped. The key cylinder was ported over with the original immobilizer sensor ring.
You could also just drill the head off of the screw/bolt
I forget if it was easy to get at with a drill but I think this was faster than drilling a bolt head that size.
LOL, you could leave the ignition switch hanging and use a screwdriver to operate the switch (!)
Sure can, the key is just allowing you to turn a built in flathead screwdriver
Can u tell me how to do this my vehicle is sitting at the gas station and won't start
You have to take apart the column stuff to get to the thing that the key cylinder turns to turn it.
NO! Starting it is NOT about turning the ignition switch. If you look carefully, there is a tiny white plastic pin in the lock module that when you turn to START, it extends and PUSHES into the ignition switch - there is another contact that is linear instead or rotatory (perhaps part of anti-theft?). What happens is the push pin does not extend enough - that is why "pushing in " the key will usually start the car.
HACK: Carefully glue a thin "shim" onto the "bottom of the hole" in the ignition switch to compensate for the reduced extension of the plastic pin. Worth doing because R&Ring the switch is EZ.
It's been a while but I remember the white nub you are referring to at the end. I believe that disengaged the steering column lock pawl. I was able to start the car simply by turning the switch without having to press in anything
@@AnythingWheeled How did you rotate the ignition switch? Did you insert a screwdriver? Good chance it pushed the "bottom" of the hole in - it should be very easy to push considering how fragile that white push pin is.
I found a lock module in junkyard with key in it. That little white "nub" pushes into the ignition switch only when you go from ON to START. (I'm trying to remember... it's very possible the ignition switch is also rotated from ON to START) Going to ON unlocks the column - this is before the pin extends. No idea WHY they would design a contraption like that. Would like to tear an ignition switch apart!
@NoferTrunions at 4:25 I used a flathead to turn it. I'm not sure now if it would have done what the white nub would do. It probably one of those things that makes sense to the guy that designed it or people that know more than us 😆
You should not work on vehicles
You don't like my hammer and chisel? Dremel to cut a notch was more work and was gonna send metal dust everywhere so I chose ape smash.