I have a MK6 GTI, and I feel like my open intake has better throttle response and overall power than my APR closed intake. I didn't know if it was just in my head because of the added sound so I switched back and forth. I'm confident I get better throttle response from the open intake.
I think that's what everyone loves to hear is the growl of the car's engine and when it comes to electric cars that what's missing...all you hear is the tires!
I've fitted a closed system and it's excellent, I then remove the lid to make effectively an open setup, I hear the noise yes but can't help but notice it doesn't pull as hard....... So I know the answer is closed unless your majorly tuned to the max. Most people aren't so just go for a closed system!!! Up to stage 2 stay closed, beyond stage 2 maybe your better with open?
I took the IE path over APR and went open box purely for the sound. No difference in power without stage tune. Certainly improves/supports the tune though.
Just want to say that your videos have inspired me to upgrade my 2018 A3 quattro. First step was Eibach lowering springs and 20mm spacers. Car sits much better - the wheels now "fill the arches" and the spacers (standard wheels) push the wheels out just enough - result improved looks and handling. Next I had APR stage 1 plus DSG tune. Significant improvement in BHP and torque. Must say I'm disappointed with the gearbox - there seems to be huge hesitancy on kickdown - it's almost as if the car can't decide what to do. I've contacted APR and they have recommended re-install. I'll see if it solves the problem. Having watched your videos on exhausts I've ordered a Milltek non resonated cat back system, and I'm thinking, while I'm at it, should I upgrade the inlet? I'm considering an APR open box with Carbon turbo inlet pipe. What do you think? Is it a worthwhile upgrade? I enjoy your videos - How's the S6 going?
Hey man! Thanks for checking out the channel! Sounds like a fun build. I would honestly advise against using the kick down feature. It's not really good for the Trans. Would suggest disabling it through the APR TCU tune. S6 has been fun although having some abs faults with recent brake service. Once that's resolved we should be back in business
So I'm pretty interested in upgrading to an is38, I'm fbo stage 2 apr what would be the best route to go? buying a full kit and getting a stage 3 apr tune.
yes since you already are so far along with the APR upgrade pathway id say the most cost effective solution would be the APR IS38 tune. That's what I went with.
I just picked up a 2016 A3 about 2 weeks ago. I have so many questions. I have been watching an absolute ton of your videos learning along with other content creators. I am really enjoying the speed and what the car has to offer as is..However, I do plan on getting the stage 1 tune done in the future but I want really want to make sure I have added or swapped other things out to ensure full and proper functionality of that tune so I don't have any problems. I plan on getting the dogbone mount, pendulum(just watched your video on that yesterday) RS7 plugs, air intake, also plan on doing the TCU tune as well. Am I forgetting anything here or am I over doing it in preparation for stage 1? Any guidance or advice would be appreciated. Thank you
Sounds like a fun build man, really appreciate the support. Yes I think you are on the right track. I would do RS7 plugs, APR ignition coils for stage 1-2 cars. Yes stage 1 with the matching TCU tune will be a huge difference over stock. Pendulum and dog bone will help reduce engine movement and beef up the drive train (firmer shifts) I would also consider getting an intercooler to help prevent heat soak etc.
Hopefully you can see this and chime in as well too Savage Panda, I recommend looking into the CTS Turbo website. I feel they have great options and some are much cheaper. I recently got their open intake and love the way it sounds and looks. Also with apr I recall they discontinued the stage 2 software and Dow pipe but CTS has the downpipe available still and when in stock they also offer an IS38 turbo for $899.99 I believe. For tuning the IS38 I can’t find the software on APR but I know United Motorsports offers ECU and TCU tunes as well. They have their own spin on a big big turbo too. I know United Motorsports offers haldex tuning as well. For cost effectiveness I recommend UM as I am stage 1 APR with TCU tune going to UM.
So it is a $250 update from the is20 tune, it doesn’t show separately. It is still available and the only other recommended mods are intercooler, exhaust, and intake. I was told I can run my stock downpipe if wanted but an intercooler is a must I already have an intake as well. A matching TCU upgrade is available free of charge I heard it can be read at the bottom of the TCU description.
I have a 2016 golf R and I just recently decided that I was going to get a stage 1 tune for it so I am looking for a intake because I don’t think the stock one is very good so my question is do you think a open vs closed intake would make much of a difference or should I mostly base the intake off of sound?
No you'll be fine with an intake I wouldn't stress about it. Not going to really do any harm. Again closed box design is generally going to perform better than the open filter intakes. Hope that helps
so i have a 2021 areton apr stage 1 the only other mods available is the charge pipe turbo muffler delete and this intake should i do the rest of thoes or is it not worth it its only like another grand to do all thoes it is my daily and under warranty through apr so not doing a bigger turbo or exhaust or any other mods other than maybe the ones i listed other than coilovers and wheels
@@savagepandaprojects yeah your probably right I think I’m still gonna do the suspension and wheels just because it’s a rare car to see modified and one of the first 2021s in Ohio if not the first to be tuned so I at least wanna be able to have it look cool at meets before everyone else gets there hands on them
@@savagepandaprojects thanks i appreciate it already found the coil over set up i want i just gotta find wheels that will look good on the car thats the hard part
There isn't any shortfall of air to spin an IS20 or IS38 on a 2.0T stock air box set-up. Shortfalls are in Fuel, Internals, and transmission - not an Air Intake. Air Intakes should have gone out in the late 80's, however - there are still generations somehow drawn to them like mosquitos.
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Hey guys I want inform you the intake has sold!
I have a MK6 GTI, and I feel like my open intake has better throttle response and overall power than my APR closed intake. I didn't know if it was just in my head because of the added sound so I switched back and forth. I'm confident I get better throttle response from the open intake.
I think that's what everyone loves to hear is the growl of the car's engine and when it comes to electric cars that what's missing...all you hear is the tires!
I've fitted a closed system and it's excellent, I then remove the lid to make effectively an open setup, I hear the noise yes but can't help but notice it doesn't pull as hard....... So I know the answer is closed unless your majorly tuned to the max. Most people aren't so just go for a closed system!!! Up to stage 2 stay closed, beyond stage 2 maybe your better with open?
I took the IE path over APR and went open box purely for the sound. No difference in power without stage tune. Certainly improves/supports the tune though.
Nice man glad its working well 🙂
Just want to say that your videos have inspired me to upgrade my 2018 A3 quattro. First step was Eibach lowering springs and 20mm spacers. Car sits much better - the wheels now "fill the arches" and the spacers (standard wheels) push the wheels out just enough - result improved looks and handling. Next I had APR stage 1 plus DSG tune. Significant improvement in BHP and torque. Must say I'm disappointed with the gearbox - there seems to be huge hesitancy on kickdown - it's almost as if the car can't decide what to do. I've contacted APR and they have recommended re-install. I'll see if it solves the problem. Having watched your videos on exhausts I've ordered a Milltek non resonated cat back system, and I'm thinking, while I'm at it, should I upgrade the inlet? I'm considering an APR open box with Carbon turbo inlet pipe. What do you think? Is it a worthwhile upgrade? I enjoy your videos - How's the S6 going?
Hey man! Thanks for checking out the channel! Sounds like a fun build. I would honestly advise against using the kick down feature. It's not really good for the Trans. Would suggest disabling it through the APR TCU tune. S6 has been fun although having some abs faults with recent brake service. Once that's resolved we should be back in business
New subscriber! I love your Audi men nice mods
Thanks man! Be sure to check out the more recent RS3 videos too 🙂
So I'm pretty interested in upgrading to an is38, I'm fbo stage 2 apr what would be the best route to go? buying a full kit and getting a stage 3 apr tune.
yes since you already are so far along with the APR upgrade pathway id say the most cost effective solution would be the APR IS38 tune. That's what I went with.
Hey quick question does anyone know when the a3 got the ea888 gen 3 engine I can’t find a clear answer online
For us market 2015+ models
I just picked up a 2016 A3 about 2 weeks ago. I have so many questions. I have been watching an absolute ton of your videos learning along with other content creators. I am really enjoying the speed and what the car has to offer as is..However, I do plan on getting the stage 1 tune done in the future but I want really want to make sure I have added or swapped other things out to ensure full and proper functionality of that tune so I don't have any problems. I plan on getting the dogbone mount, pendulum(just watched your video on that yesterday) RS7 plugs, air intake, also plan on doing the TCU tune as well. Am I forgetting anything here or am I over doing it in preparation for stage 1? Any guidance or advice would be appreciated. Thank you
Sounds like a fun build man, really appreciate the support. Yes I think you are on the right track. I would do RS7 plugs, APR ignition coils for stage 1-2 cars. Yes stage 1 with the matching TCU tune will be a huge difference over stock. Pendulum and dog bone will help reduce engine movement and beef up the drive train (firmer shifts) I would also consider getting an intercooler to help prevent heat soak etc.
@@savagepandaprojects I appreciate the insight man
Hopefully you can see this and chime in as well too Savage Panda, I recommend looking into the CTS Turbo website. I feel they have great options and some are much cheaper. I recently got their open intake and love the way it sounds and looks. Also with apr I recall they discontinued the stage 2 software and Dow pipe but CTS has the downpipe available still and when in stock they also offer an IS38 turbo for $899.99 I believe. For tuning the IS38 I can’t find the software on APR but I know United Motorsports offers ECU and TCU tunes as well. They have their own spin on a big big turbo too. I know United Motorsports offers haldex tuning as well. For cost effectiveness I recommend UM as I am stage 1 APR with TCU tune going to UM.
@@savagepandaprojects I want to call APR for is38 tune
So it is a $250 update from the is20 tune, it doesn’t show separately. It is still available and the only other recommended mods are intercooler, exhaust, and intake. I was told I can run my stock downpipe if wanted but an intercooler is a must I already have an intake as well. A matching TCU upgrade is available free of charge I heard it can be read at the bottom of the TCU description.
Wait so for more of the high pitch “tsss” noise, a closed air intake would do that?
You'll mainly hear that when suddenly letting of the throttle. Open filter will have more of a whiooshy roar lol
So do you prefer open air intake or enclosed ? And which performs better hp/tq ?
Closed box for performance as prevent induction of hot air
I have a 2016 golf R and I just recently decided that I was going to get a stage 1 tune for it so I am looking for a intake because I don’t think the stock one is very good so my question is do you think a open vs closed intake would make much of a difference or should I mostly base the intake off of sound?
It's really up to you. They look great and sound great but not a requirement to have a fast car 😀
Closed box makes the most sense 🤨
Just getting a intake apr, will it void my warranty and does it mess with the car, make it run hotter or anything ?
No you'll be fine with an intake I wouldn't stress about it. Not going to really do any harm. Again closed box design is generally going to perform better than the open filter intakes. Hope that helps
so i have a 2021 areton apr stage 1 the only other mods available is the charge pipe turbo muffler delete and this intake should i do the rest of thoes or is it not worth it its only like another grand to do all thoes it is my daily and under warranty through apr so not doing a bigger turbo or exhaust or any other mods other than maybe the ones i listed other than coilovers and wheels
As much as I love the styling of the Arteon aftermarket support is very limited right now. I personally would hold off for now.
@@savagepandaprojects yeah your probably right I think I’m still gonna do the suspension and wheels just because it’s a rare car to see modified and one of the first 2021s in Ohio if not the first to be tuned so I at least wanna be able to have it look cool at meets before everyone else gets there hands on them
@@jakekorach7591 suspension and wheels that I totally understand. Would look great👍glad to help if you need anything. 😀
@@savagepandaprojects thanks i appreciate it already found the coil over set up i want i just gotta find wheels that will look good on the car thats the hard part
@@jakekorach7591 sounds good 👍 I'd probably look at something flow form like HRE FF, vossen HF or neuspeed
Random question but iv been doing 3k rpm launches in my a3, could that cause damage to the car
That is a pretty conservative low rpm launch shouldn't be an issue
well that’s the stock launch limiter on the a3 so it shouldn’t be a problem obv launching it constantly won’t be good
Is a TCU tune needed for just stage 1? Or should I be fine with just an intake?
Low torque files you'll be OK without it. If going high torque get the TCU tune
Oil catch can install next?
nah not needed in my opinion. Popular yes but I prefer not to mess with them.
@@savagepandaprojects more carbon build up especially as not having multiport injection. The can definitely helps
There isn't any shortfall of air to spin an IS20 or IS38 on a 2.0T stock air box set-up. Shortfalls are in Fuel, Internals, and transmission - not an Air Intake. Air Intakes should have gone out in the late 80's, however - there are still generations somehow drawn to them like mosquitos.
yep, I'm with you man. I like intakes but many instances they aren't needed.
How and where do I reach you?
Send me a DM on IG
Is there any after market downpipe with cat??
For now there are still a decent of amount of catted pipes but I have seen quite a few brands stop producing them all together (catted or catless)
@@savagepandaprojects I need to pass my emission and inspection and I don’t have the stock downpipe lol
Hot air intake, dose absolutely Fu#k all.
Stock air box flows enough for 500hp,,but whatever flotes your boat
Hi I’m super interested in the intake!
its been sold!
What wheels are those ?😅
Alzor
thank you very much for the video
i planed to buy one probably
liebe grüße matze DevoLine1337