Oh, man...no loud music, no gimmick attitude, just no BS. Thank you, very straight forward, professional. Got the job done with great show of use of tools. Subbed.
Sons of Speed I appreciate your reply. However, I hope everyone who watches your very valuable content realizes that YOU make our day, YOU save us time because you've figured it out so we don't have to! All we do is follow along out in the garage. Also, you save us money. Again, thank you!
When I got my first job at a gas station, back in '84 when I was 16, my boss taught me how to do oil changes... EXACTLY like you just did that one, including torquing the filter and drain plugs. Very cool. Now I have a Z51 and some more knowledge that I didn't have 12 minutes ago! Thanks!
Something I was taught when I was young: never ever ever ever thread in a drain plug without immediately tightening it... That way you can never fail to tighten it and we can all agree how important it is for the oil to stay inside the engine.
I was wondering WHY you didn't fill the oil filter B/4 spinning it on? I have always filled filters when it's straight up, even filled half way on others with a angle. I understood it help the eng., doesn't need to work filling the filter then pump oil to eng internal parts. I know it's only a short time, but , I see it as helping save my eng. from starvation of oil for a short time. Haven't had any eng failurs yet. Thought for the day. GREAT VIDEO. much help for the guy wanting to do oil and filter changes.
Short answer: this guy does it right. Don't fill oil filters with oil. Long answer: there is no benefit from prefilling smaller, passenger vehicle oil filters. That might change in HD applications where the filter holds a gallon of oil, however the only thing gained from prefilling in a passenger car or truck is the possibility of contamination in your engine oil. All of that oil added during prefilling will bypass the filter initially and take with it anything foreign you've just added. Foreign objects in your engine = not good. Basically, don't prefill oil filters unless the manufacturer tells you to. It's 100% unnecessary on passenger cars and trucks with small, spin on filters.
you have awesome videos. as a mechanic I see your attention to detail and love it. always great to see someone else who does the same job work on a car you've own. didn't know about the oil filter torque adapter. learned something new. amazing and thanks brother.
Very nice demo of changing oil in a dry sump auto. I don’t own a Corvette, however, thinking of purchasing a C7 Z06! 😊👍 The only thing I would have done differently is fill the oil filter with oil before reinstalling!😊
Love the video and I am using it to do my 2019 Grand Sport oil change. Something I learned watching your video. You end up over-torquing the oil plug with the crows foot by a little bit. You should decrease the torque setting on the wrench by 10% for example, or you end up with 10% too much torque. The crows foot has mechanical advantage. Some people say the angle at 45 or 90 degrees will cancel it out but if your draw a diagram and do the math the bolt ends up seeing the torque applied from both lever arms. It's like adding a 2nd lever arm to the system. Use this formula (from Husky tools) to calculate what to set your torque wrench to for 18 ft-lbs at the bolt. I assumed 12" for the torque wrench handle length and 1" for the crows foot. Tw is the actual torque setting on the torque wrench. Te is what you want to apply to the bolt. L is the wrench's handle length from the center of the handle to center of the drive end. E is the crows foot length (center of drive end to center of driven end). Te x L/(L+E). Plug in the numbers: Tw = 18 x 14/(14+1) = 16.8 (set your torque wrench to this setting). I will say one more thing. Instead of arguing about the angle issue, just make sure the crows foot and torque wrench handle are in line with no angle and just use the above formula and you're all set. Or to keep it stupid simple, just knock 1 or 2 ft-lbs off the setting and you'll be good.
With a quart jugs I always like to measure my oil before I put it in . For example my Mustang takes 8qt. I empty a 5qt jug , then pour 3qt from the next jug into the empty one . Then I just empty it into the car . I prefer that then trying to keep splashing some directly in and possibly going over if I am not paying attention . If I go over pouring it into the jug , just pour some back , easy .
Very helpful video sir, thank you. And as with all oil changes it's not hard to do. If only I had a rack to put my '19 GS on. I have a small heart seizure every time I take mine in for an oil change. And to make it even better GM has now recommended 9.8 quarts in the dry sump engine. I tell the manager to put 9.5, give me the last 1/2 quart, and when I get home I level the oil off. There's no way I can trust that last .3 quart to the youngsters that do the oil changes at the dealer.
Last oil change I had my Chevy dealer do they put 7 quarts in to the 9.8 quart dry sump system. Drove it around a couple days 3 quarts low. Didn't realize until I was filing the service receipts a couple days later I noticed they charged 7 quarts. I ran to garage and checked- on video- and sure enough, not even touching dipstick. Dealer tried to insist they put the full 9.8 in. I do all my own maintenance now.
Would love it if you could make a video like this one for a Diff fluid flush and replacement for C7 Z51/GS/Z06. The Corvette Forum community would be in your debt!
I do this with every oil change on every vehicle. Probably minimal benefit but oil is in there immediately instead of running for any amount of time without... can't hurt...
Really good video thanks. On a side note, when using the 15-50W oil, you should let the car idle until it reaches operating temperature before you drive the car every time you start the engine. With the 5W-30, you can drive the car normally. Information obtained at the Ron Fellows HPDE event at Spring Mountain. They let all their cars idle up to operating temperature every day. You can experience oil deprivation if you do not.
Thanks. About to do my first oil change on my “new to me” 2018 Stingray. First Dry sump ... didn’t know it had two drain plugs. Hmm. Given that large oil cooler, I’m thinking remove the filter first before the temp valve closes ... ??? And on the filters which mount vertically (like this one) ... I prime the filter. Prob not necessary, but technique only. Subbed.
You're in good company priming the filter, that's probably the most frequent comment we get. And we've even taken to doing it - what the heck, can't hurt!
@@SonsofSpeed thanks. I bought one of those filter wrenches like you showed. I only had a strap wrench ... and while I COULD torque it ... because it wasn't in the center, the set valule wasn't going to be what was applied. 22# is a LOT for an oil filter! Hope I can remove it in a few months. 10 quarts is what my car took to get just below the full mark on the dipstick. thanks again for your work. appreciate the tips.
There's a tsb to make sure using correct oil filter. There's a difference between Delco ph64 and Delco 48e. Both same size and both fit. Internals are different.
This may be sacrilege, but I use the K&N HP-1020 oil filter on my 2019 Grand Sport, particularly after time has eliminated any OEM warranty issues. The hyper-expert at my Corvette race shop, where even one of the local dealer service managers takes his Vette for specialty work, uses the K&N filters and has never had an issue, ever. Always fine on my Corvettes, too. One really nice touch on that K&N filter (and the HP-1007 for my old C5) is the 1" nut manufactured (welded) onto the end. Removing the K&N and installation-torqueing a new one are trivial when you can just put a 1" socket on a wrench or torque wrench. I haven't needed a special wrench for my filters in MANY years.
I do this too - just a little pop with a small Phillips screwdriver and let it drain. Cuts down on the mess significantly. Started doing this on my LS engines and works great!
Thank you for such an amazing video! One question, why do you use two different tools to remove and tightened oil filter? Can't you just use that tighten tool to remove and tightened the filter??
@@goneflying140 the bite is usually the issue in getting it off. The removal tool will grab and not let go (which will damage the filter in the process, but you’re tossing it anyway). We’ve had the tool for tightening slip when trying to remove.
The dry sump pan holds very little volume because a scavenge pump sucks oil out of the pan to store in a separate tank so the engine can maintain oil pressure during high g circumstances. Therefore two plugs, the one for the reservoir and one for the pan.
Alex Soo The wrap on the exhaust is a thermal wrap to insulate the exhaust. It keeps more of the heat on the pipes and off chassis and vehicle structures near the exhaust pipes. Hope this helps.
Thank you for updating which motor oil to use and how GM has updated the approval of 0w-40. Where would I be able to get the info of which specific oil weights and/or brands are approved (i.e. 5w-40)?
The best place to start would be your local dealer's service department. So far, Chevy approves Dexos and Mobil 1 (we use only Mobil 1) in 5w-30 and 0w-40 weights. 15w50 is approved for track use, but should be changed once track driving is completed.
@@SonsofSpeed , Great video. I'm getting a Grand Sport later this year and I'm drooling watching this video. 👍 The C7 Vette is a crazy great deal for the money. ☺
Thank you very much for the video. There is a problem with the Oil Filter Wrench Tool (to tighten the filter) is not available, do you recommend another option? thank you!!
Its not that crucial mobil one synthetic oil as all modern oils coat the internal parts and that motor is already broke in so no damage is done plus too the whole purpose of a dry sump is instant oil pressure under all driving conditions but one thing he did not not do is pour the oil in slow if you pour the oil in too fast you can flood the complex pcv system this car has.
DustinCorvetteZr1 i had dry sump system on the Acura NSX and it would take few seconds before oil fills the oil filter , this might seem like no big deal but sometimes this short cut can cause lots of problems .
What do you mean 'complex interference motor'? The automotive use of the word 'interference' is where the pistons will hit the valves if the valve timing is out. Push rods have nothing to do with it. Why didnt you say 'rocker arm V8' or 'hydraulic lifter' instead? Seems the uneducated are hung up on the word 'pushrod'. The LS series of engines are 'complex'. Also, you said "complex pcv" system. Do you know what PCV stands for? Positive Crankcase Ventilation. The oil that is being poured in is going into the oil reservoir tank and fill speed will have no effect on crankcase ventilation. How do you think they do it in the factory? Its just poured in as fast as possible as there is another car coming down the line!
Sir: This is a great vid. I just bought a 2013 Corvette 427 convertible in OH and driving it to my home here in PA end of next week. Car still like new but I want to service it once I get home. Is the procedure for this car approximately the same as the C7 in your vid? Thanks very much.
Very informative presentation. I would take issue with using 15W50 oil. Chevrolet recommends 5W30 oil for street driven vehicles. This is a critical weight because the cam phasing device as part of the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system) works best with that recommended weight oil. The heavier viscosity can affect the way the Corvette LT1 runs.
You are correct, except we mentioned we were taking this Stingray straight to the track, so that is why we used the 15w50 as recommended by Chevy in their track preparation guide.
i heard its better t hold the oil level a bit low which should help to enter less oil into the intake area ? Would be nice to see a vid how to inspect and clean this !!
Good video. Just FYSA using a crows foot changes the length of the torque wrench, understand not by much but using 18ft/lbs there is not the same as using a socket.
So long as the rubber seal still sits slightly above the head of the plug and isn't pushed down flush with it. Our practice is to replace the plug every 3 or 4 oil changes, but inspect it carefully each time. I would order a set of new plugs and compare how the ring sits in the new plugs to the one on the car. If it looks about the same, you'll be fine to reuse. If the existing ring looks pushed down compared to the new one, then change it out.
Thanks for the video - quick question, this would be applicable for the 2017 Grand Sport as well, correct? I'm getting ready to change the oil in mine for the first time, just want to make sure. :)
Thanks for the informative video! What are your thoughts on changing the oil when it's hot (i.e. 30-60 mins after driving)? I've read that the hot oil is less viscous and drains better than the cold oil. Also that the hot oil will be better mixed and will therefore bring with it any contaminants that would normally settle at the bottom of the oil pan. I know there is a safety concerns with working with hot oil as well :). Thanks!
When you change the oil it rarely is "bad", rather you are flushing the contaminates that are in the oil, so they are suspended better in oil that has just been cycled, On another note some just want to filter the oil well and rarely changing oil, BAD IDEA, moisture, antifreeze and minute particles that filters miss never get filtered out so oil change (oil flush) is necessary, BTW condensation and such thin oil so it is thinner than originally designed thus less lubricating qualities and moisture in oil produces the sludge that no one desires as it robs power and heat transfer, heat transfer on metal surfaces is not as good and yes oil helps to remove heat from the engine also.
We have had no issues with the OEM filter. Given that Ron Fellows uses the same filters, I would say there's not enough of a difference for us to switch.
Not to be too critical: However, the links you posted for the Tekton torque wrench and crowfeet’s won’t work together. The torque wrench is ½ drive and the crowfeet are 3/8.
I think in C7's the real risk is over filling which apparently is something even dealerships can do. That's why they recommend it being done while warm instead of cold and somewhere between 9.4-9.7 quarts of oil
What brand and viscosity of oil are most of you using for normal street driving? I just bought a used 2014 Z51 and the dealer out a fresh oil change on it, bit the salesman didn't have a clue what they used...
GM recommends using Mobile 1 5w-30 for everyday driving, Mobile 1 0w-40 for everyday driving and track use, or Mobile 1 15w-50 for track use. We use the 0w-40 for both daily and track.
Check out this page for help on identifying the wet sump bolt. www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-tech-performance/3485094-how-to-drain-fill-engine-oil-and-replace-oil-filter-wet-sump-specs.html
The heavier weight handles the higher temps and increased load you will be putting on the engine at the track. Chevy has also later approved the 0W-40 for track and street use as well (see the description).
Kane’s Garage we haven’t tried the Mobil 1 filter, but we’ve never had an issue with the AC Delco part. It has the added benefit of not affecting your warranty if you’re using OEM parts.
Question PF 64 is the right oil filter, but what about the eight digit number under PF64. I noticed on most videos they use the part with ending number 445 which is what you have. I also see that some recommend the PF 64 with the buttom serial number ending in 048. So are these two oil filters the same or there is a differnce between them and which one I really should choose for my Z06. Thanks.
A question on the 0w-40. Mobile 1 is recommending an "ESP" dexos approved variety. The link in the description is leading to a different "European Car Formula" that does not appear to have the dexos rating. Is the performance of this oils similar? It seems one is approved by GM and the other is not.
If he ditten tightened it down it would of leak bad like mines did did u see how much more it went after he done it by hand, he had more then several turns to go, so yes I also said the same to but yes it must go all the way up inside so it won't leak, took mines in for a oil change and 3 days later I started to leak oil from the filter, as they only hand tightened also, big mistake cost me an additional 15 dollars to tighten it again to place on a car rack, WHO KNEW?
@Where Am I Absolutely. I'd also be concerned that tightening as was described you may deform the gasket and cause a leak. As Reginald Small suggested above: always fill the filter as much as you can before installing.
There seems to be debate on that issue. GM specs do not call for it, but you are not the first to suggest it. Adding oil to the filter before installing it certainly can't hurt.
Pedro full is at the top line - that's the maximum amount of oil you want in the car. The first (lower) line is your minimum. You want to be at the top line, or as close to it without overfilling as you can. Just be sure to check the oil on a level surface 5-10 minutes after getting the car warm and shutting down.
@@SonsofSpeed For drain plug seal/gasket, we are supposed to replace it every oil change but I guess it's ok to reuse them if no damage etc? How many oil changes do they normally last. And I can only get those in dealers I suppose?
@@okaythen001 for us, they last about 2-3 years, and we change the oil every month or so during the summer (lots of track days). We keep a new one on hand and compare the gasket - if it looks flattened/sunken, we replace it. Coincidentally, we just replaced ours about 10 days ago!
That particular one is a Pittsburgh wrench, but it only goes up to 80 ft/lbs. This one is a better all-around wrench that you can use on this job and to tighten the lugs as well, as it goes up to 150lbs: amzn.to/2F4GXCk
Sons of Speed Thx! I just seen your reply. I ended up getting 4 Tektons, from the inch/lb up to the 250 ft/lb. I looked at the Pittsburghs and liked them. The Tektons had a little better feel in my hands. both are great wrenches for the light duty repairs I do. Great video!!
For my 2017 Grand sport, I have oil somewhat above the hash marks on the dip stick when the engine is hot. Which of the two plus would I remove to drain out an estimated 1/2 to 1 quart?
GeekWireless first, make sure you are checking the oil on a flat surface 5-10 minutes after shutting off the engine to ensure an accurate reading. To remove a small amount of oil, the best solution to remove a quart or two would be to siphon it out through the dipstick using an oil extractor. Barring that, the rearmost plug should have less oil above it than the front plug, but you'd have to put the plug back in rather quickly to avoid losing too much oil.
Thank you for the quick reply! Ok on the flat surface-it is flat. I considered using some type of extractor via the dip stick, but from I can tell, it feels like the dip stick is not thru a regular round tube--it seems to insert into a flat section lower down. So, I am not usre if an oil extractor would fit. Where would I expect to get one if that is workable?
GeekWireless GM released a TSB technical service bulletin if filled to the top of the hash marks its actually 1/2 qt over I fill mine to just above the very bottom mark on the dip stick about 1/2 qt low this eliminates all oil burping back into the complex PCV system and air intake air filter etc plus a good quality catch can will help as well I have RX
Thanks. Good info. Note. I was able to remove 1/2 Qt. excess oil via a hand Siphon from O'Reily. The original siphon from Walmart had a larger tube and would get stuck in filler tube.
For your info I got an new 2017 GS as well stay away from Anderson Composites for carbon fiber I bought the rear taillight bezels and hood vent NONE of the carbon fiber fit and was poor quality I hope they will refund me.
Not a know it all But was a Auto Machinist for many years.Drain plugs out till barely a Drip.Magnetic Plugs replace stock.Oil filter off when plugs are open. Fill oil filter before installing. RIP#3!!!
Oh, man...no loud music, no gimmick attitude, just no BS. Thank you, very straight forward, professional. Got the job done with great show of use of tools. Subbed.
Thanks so much - that made our day!
Sons of Speed I appreciate your reply. However, I hope everyone who watches your very valuable content realizes that YOU make our day, YOU save us time because you've figured it out so we don't have to! All we do is follow along out in the garage. Also, you save us money.
Again, thank you!
When I got my first job at a gas station, back in '84 when I was 16, my boss taught me how to do oil changes... EXACTLY like you just did that one, including torquing the filter and drain plugs. Very cool. Now I have a Z51 and some more knowledge that I didn't have 12 minutes ago! Thanks!
Brains Ironically thanks for that awesome comment, glad you found it helpful!
Me too, the z51 is different for sure.
Something I was taught when I was young: never ever ever ever thread in a drain plug without immediately tightening it... That way you can never fail to tighten it and we can all agree how important it is for the oil to stay inside the engine.
Good advice.
Thank you for the straight forward approach to replacing the engine oil.....MUCH APPRECIATED
Our pleasure, glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks man! This is great for corvette importers who are overseas and have to self maintain. God bless you.
Jeremy John thanks so much, we’re so glad to help!
Just purchased a Z51 and needed to see some of the basic maintenance steps. Thanks for this video.
You're welcome!
Thank you for posting the video. I bought my 2014 z51 3lt 6spd with 58k miles and did my first oil change. Great video.
I was wondering WHY you didn't fill the oil filter B/4 spinning it on? I have always filled filters when it's straight up, even filled half way on others with a angle. I understood it help the eng., doesn't need to work filling the filter then pump oil to eng internal parts. I know it's only a short time, but , I see it as helping save my eng. from starvation of oil for a short time. Haven't had any eng failurs yet. Thought for the day. GREAT VIDEO. much help for the guy wanting to do oil and filter changes.
Yep can't believe he didn't fill the filter with engine oil,he must not know that alot of engine damage happens at start up.
Not easy to fill oil filters people dont understand theres a right and wrong way to fill
Short answer: this guy does it right. Don't fill oil filters with oil.
Long answer: there is no benefit from prefilling smaller, passenger vehicle oil filters. That might change in HD applications where the filter holds a gallon of oil, however the only thing gained from prefilling in a passenger car or truck is the possibility of contamination in your engine oil. All of that oil added during prefilling will bypass the filter initially and take with it anything foreign you've just added. Foreign objects in your engine = not good.
Basically, don't prefill oil filters unless the manufacturer tells you to. It's 100% unnecessary on passenger cars and trucks with small, spin on filters.
you have awesome videos. as a mechanic I see your attention to detail and love it. always great to see someone else who does the same job work on a car you've own. didn't know about the oil filter torque adapter. learned something new. amazing and thanks brother.
Our pleasure, and thank you for your comments!
Very nice demo of changing oil in a dry sump auto. I don’t own a Corvette, however, thinking of purchasing a C7 Z06! 😊👍 The only thing I would have done differently is fill the oil filter with oil before reinstalling!😊
Love the video and I am using it to do my 2019 Grand Sport oil change. Something I learned watching your video. You end up over-torquing the oil plug with the crows foot by a little bit. You should decrease the torque setting on the wrench by 10% for example, or you end up with 10% too much torque. The crows foot has mechanical advantage. Some people say the angle at 45 or 90 degrees will cancel it out but if your draw a diagram and do the math the bolt ends up seeing the torque applied from both lever arms. It's like adding a 2nd lever arm to the system. Use this formula (from Husky tools) to calculate what to set your torque wrench to for 18 ft-lbs at the bolt. I assumed 12" for the torque wrench handle length and 1" for the crows foot. Tw is the actual torque setting on the torque wrench. Te is what you want to apply to the bolt. L is the wrench's handle length from the center of the handle to center of the drive end. E is the crows foot length (center of drive end to center of driven end). Te x L/(L+E). Plug in the numbers: Tw = 18 x 14/(14+1) = 16.8 (set your torque wrench to this setting).
I will say one more thing. Instead of arguing about the angle issue, just make sure the crows foot and torque wrench handle are in line with no angle and just use the above formula and you're all set. Or to keep it stupid simple, just knock 1 or 2 ft-lbs off the setting and you'll be good.
THIS IS NOT ..ROCKET-SCIENCE!!!!I PRETTY MUCH ALWAYS HAND TIGHTEN THE OIL FILTERS..THEN APROX. HALF A TURN TIGHTER WITH A WRENCH....
@@scottbarker9058 Turn the caps lock off buddy. Sounds like you're yelling. Wait, you are. Relax!
With a quart jugs I always like to measure my oil before I put it in . For example my Mustang takes 8qt. I empty a 5qt jug , then pour 3qt from the next jug into the empty one . Then I just empty it into the car . I prefer that then trying to keep splashing some directly in and possibly going over if I am not paying attention . If I go over pouring it into the jug , just pour some back , easy .
Very helpful video sir, thank you. And as with all oil changes it's not hard to do. If only I had a rack to put my '19 GS on. I have a small heart seizure every time I take mine in for an oil change. And to make it even better GM has now recommended 9.8 quarts in the dry sump engine. I tell the manager to put 9.5, give me the last 1/2 quart, and when I get home I level the oil off. There's no way I can trust that last .3 quart to the youngsters that do the oil changes at the dealer.
Last oil change I had my Chevy dealer do they put 7 quarts in to the 9.8 quart dry sump system. Drove it around a couple days 3 quarts low. Didn't realize until I was filing the service receipts a couple days later I noticed they charged 7 quarts. I ran to garage and checked- on video- and sure enough, not even touching dipstick. Dealer tried to insist they put the full 9.8 in. I do all my own maintenance now.
Would love it if you could make a video like this one for a Diff fluid flush and replacement for C7 Z51/GS/Z06. The Corvette Forum community would be in your debt!
We will certainly give that some thought, as you are supposed to replace the differential fluid every 24 hours of track time.
There's also a school of thought that says to prefill the filter with oil before installing...
dont need to. especially with a dry sump system
I do this with every oil change on every vehicle. Probably minimal benefit but oil is in there immediately instead of running for any amount of time without... can't hurt...
Thanks for taking the time to show this process. Well done.
Thank you for the comments, Ron, glad you found it helpful.
Really good video thanks. On a side note, when using the 15-50W oil, you should let the car idle until it reaches operating temperature before you drive the car every time you start the engine. With the 5W-30, you can drive the car normally. Information obtained at the Ron Fellows HPDE event at Spring Mountain. They let all their cars idle up to operating temperature every day. You can experience oil deprivation if you do not.
Thank you for your precious time and sharing your knowledge, much appreciated have a blessed day 🎉
Nice video. Appreciate the part numbers imbedded!
Thank you, our pleasure to help!
Informative video, thanks. Can you please update links for filter install and removal tools, as well as this side attachment to torque wrench?
Thank you, all links have been updated!
Really appreciate the video and especially listing the part numbers. I ordered your removal tool, gloves, and wrench. Thanks!
Chris Harris thanks so much for the feedback - glad you enjoyed the video!
Personally I like this video. You did it like when it fordt came out from theb Gm engeniring. Love it
Thanks. About to do my first oil change on my “new to me” 2018 Stingray. First Dry sump ... didn’t know it had two drain plugs. Hmm. Given that large oil cooler, I’m thinking remove the filter first before the temp valve closes ... ???
And on the filters which mount vertically (like this one) ... I prime the filter. Prob not necessary, but technique only.
Subbed.
You're in good company priming the filter, that's probably the most frequent comment we get. And we've even taken to doing it - what the heck, can't hurt!
@@SonsofSpeed thanks. I bought one of those filter wrenches like you showed. I only had a strap wrench ... and while I COULD torque it ... because it wasn't in the center, the set valule wasn't going to be what was applied.
22# is a LOT for an oil filter! Hope I can remove it in a few months.
10 quarts is what my car took to get just below the full mark on the dipstick.
thanks again for your work. appreciate the tips.
There's a tsb to make sure using correct oil filter. There's a difference between Delco ph64 and Delco 48e. Both same size and both fit. Internals are different.
This may be sacrilege, but I use the K&N HP-1020 oil filter on my 2019 Grand Sport, particularly after time has eliminated any OEM warranty issues. The hyper-expert at my Corvette race shop, where even one of the local dealer service managers takes his Vette for specialty work, uses the K&N filters and has never had an issue, ever. Always fine on my Corvettes, too. One really nice touch on that K&N filter (and the HP-1007 for my old C5) is the 1" nut manufactured (welded) onto the end. Removing the K&N and installation-torqueing a new one are trivial when you can just put a 1" socket on a wrench or torque wrench. I haven't needed a special wrench for my filters in MANY years.
Thanks very much. I really dig my Z51
Happy and healthy New Year. Mike
suggest you place a hole in the bottom of the oil filter to drain the oil from it before removing, less of a mess
I do this too - just a little pop with a small Phillips screwdriver and let it drain. Cuts down on the mess significantly. Started doing this on my LS engines and works great!
Good explanation, in getting a C7 soon
So good Brendan! Great video 👏
Thank you 😊
nice was told specifics better than most. i like your detail info
Thank you for the comments, Linda, we're glad you liked the video!
Thank you for such an amazing video! One question, why do you use two different tools to remove and tightened oil filter? Can't you just use that tighten tool to remove and tightened the filter??
BOOMBOOM AUTOPARTS you’re welcome, and thanks for the comment! The removal tool only works in one direction; hence the need for two tools.
@@SonsofSpeed
But doesn't the tool you used to install the filter work in both directions? Or doesn't it bite good enough to get it off there?
@@goneflying140 the bite is usually the issue in getting it off. The removal tool will grab and not let go (which will damage the filter in the process, but you’re tossing it anyway). We’ve had the tool for tightening slip when trying to remove.
@@SonsofSpeed
Okay, thanks!!
Good tips on the oil filter gasket and crows foot on the torque wrench. thanks
Great and informative video! Why do the Z51 and ZO6 have two oil drain plugs?
The reason is they are dry sump oil systems.
The dry sump pan holds very little volume because a scavenge pump sucks oil out of the pan to store in a separate tank so the engine can maintain oil pressure during high g circumstances. Therefore two plugs, the one for the reservoir and one for the pan.
Fill the new filter with oil before installing.
Hi, Like to know more about the wrap on the exhaust pipe I see. Thanks.
Alex Soo The wrap on the exhaust is a thermal wrap to insulate the exhaust. It keeps more of the heat on the pipes and off chassis and vehicle structures near the exhaust pipes. Hope this helps.
excellent video, thank you!
You are very welcome, thanks for your comment!
Awesome! Thank you for posting the video - and putting the links to tools used and part numbers 😊
Thanks for the information ! Love the way you explain
Thank you for updating which motor oil to use and how GM has updated the approval of 0w-40.
Where would I be able to get the info of which specific oil weights and/or brands are approved (i.e. 5w-40)?
The best place to start would be your local dealer's service department. So far, Chevy approves Dexos and Mobil 1 (we use only Mobil 1) in 5w-30 and 0w-40 weights. 15w50 is approved for track use, but should be changed once track driving is completed.
Great EZ video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
great video, Thank you so much!
Dexos or mobil 1 but 15 50 is awesome. Get her warm and in the cross hatch area. Mine took 10.3 quarts
You put the crows foot at 45 degrees on the torque wrench so it'll be accurate , but it's also just a drain plug so not that important
Nice job on the video. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment, glad you liked it!
@@SonsofSpeed ,
Great video. I'm getting a Grand Sport later this year and I'm drooling watching this video. 👍 The C7 Vette is a crazy great deal for the money. ☺
Great tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the video. There is a problem with the Oil Filter Wrench Tool (to tighten the filter) is not available, do you recommend another option? thank you!!
I heard GM recommends the 0-40 in z51 now
Yes, we updated the info in our description.
Where'd you get that oil wrench? I want one
Thank you for the comment - there should be a link in the description for all the tools and parts used in the video.
Forgot to add oil into the filter buddy , big mistake on dry sump oil systems.
Its not that crucial mobil one synthetic oil as all modern oils coat the internal parts and that motor is already broke in so no damage is done plus too the whole purpose of a dry sump is instant oil pressure under all driving conditions but one thing he did not not do is pour the oil in slow if you pour the oil in too fast you can flood the complex pcv system this car has.
DustinCorvetteZr1 i had dry sump system on the Acura NSX and it would take few seconds before oil fills the oil filter , this might seem like no big deal but sometimes this short cut can cause lots of problems .
maybe in a complex interference motor but not a pushrod v8
What do you mean 'complex interference motor'? The automotive use of the word 'interference' is where the pistons will hit the valves if the valve timing is out. Push rods have nothing to do with it. Why didnt you say 'rocker arm V8' or 'hydraulic lifter' instead? Seems the uneducated are hung up on the word 'pushrod'. The LS series of engines are 'complex'.
Also, you said "complex pcv" system. Do you know what PCV stands for? Positive Crankcase Ventilation. The oil that is being poured in is going into the oil reservoir tank and fill speed will have no effect on crankcase ventilation. How do you think they do it in the factory? Its just poured in as fast as possible as there is another car coming down the line!
A very professional guide :)))
Sir: This is a great vid. I just bought a 2013 Corvette 427 convertible in OH and driving it to my home here in PA end of next week. Car still like new but I want to service it once I get home. Is the procedure for this car approximately the same as the C7 in your vid? Thanks very much.
Why am I here? Because Burns Chevy in Rock Hill SC wants to charge me $180 - 220 dollars for an oil change. C7/Z51 Thanks for the help.
Very informative presentation. I would take issue with using 15W50 oil. Chevrolet recommends 5W30 oil for street driven vehicles. This is a critical weight because the cam phasing device as part of the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system) works best with that recommended weight oil. The heavier viscosity can affect the way the Corvette LT1 runs.
You are correct, except we mentioned we were taking this Stingray straight to the track, so that is why we used the 15w50 as recommended by Chevy in their track preparation guide.
*Dry Sump have 2 drainage and Wet Sump have 1 drainage?*
Correct.
i heard its better t hold the oil level a bit low which should help to enter less oil into the intake area ?
Would be nice to see a vid how to inspect and clean this !!
Good video. Just FYSA using a crows foot changes the length of the torque wrench, understand not by much but using 18ft/lbs there is not the same as using a socket.
Instead of a crow's foot, could you use a small extension or a swivel? Or would that affect the accuracy of the torque wrench?
We’re not sure how those might affect the torque wrench’s accuracy, sorry.
No gaskets on the oil drain plugs?
Thanks for your question, Tony. The gaskets are built into the plug around the base.
Nice, so it is okay to reuse the plugs?
So long as the rubber seal still sits slightly above the head of the plug and isn't pushed down flush with it. Our practice is to replace the plug every 3 or 4 oil changes, but inspect it carefully each time. I would order a set of new plugs and compare how the ring sits in the new plugs to the one on the car. If it looks about the same, you'll be fine to reuse. If the existing ring looks pushed down compared to the new one, then change it out.
Great video, thanks a bunch!
Thanks for the video - quick question, this would be applicable for the 2017 Grand Sport as well, correct? I'm getting ready to change the oil in mine for the first time, just want to make sure. :)
Yes, exactly the same on a 2017-18 Grand Sport!
9:00 mark I'm good at checking where I am with big jugs.
Thanks for the informative video! What are your thoughts on changing the oil when it's hot (i.e. 30-60 mins after driving)? I've read that the hot oil is less viscous and drains better than the cold oil. Also that the hot oil will be better mixed and will therefore bring with it any contaminants that would normally settle at the bottom of the oil pan. I know there is a safety concerns with working with hot oil as well :). Thanks!
MP87 it certainly helps - just be careful not to burn yourself!
When you change the oil it rarely is "bad", rather you are flushing the contaminates that are in the oil, so they are suspended better in oil that has just been cycled, On another note some just want to filter the oil well and rarely changing oil, BAD IDEA, moisture, antifreeze and minute particles that filters miss never get filtered out so oil change (oil flush) is necessary, BTW condensation and such thin oil so it is thinner than originally designed thus less lubricating qualities and moisture in oil produces the sludge that no one desires as it robs power and heat transfer, heat transfer on metal surfaces is not as good and yes oil helps to remove heat from the engine also.
You think ac Delco Oem filter is as good as a Mobil one oil filter?
We have had no issues with the OEM filter. Given that Ron Fellows uses the same filters, I would say there's not enough of a difference for us to switch.
I would of put oil in the filter!
Danny7shop me too
Whenever possible!
have*
no reason to introduce a dry start up!
Suprised you didn't prime the oil filter before putting it on.
Its honestly not a normal thing. No dealer does this either. It doesn't hurt it.
The crows foot set was metric or standard ?
Standard, 15mm
Punch a hole in the filter and let drain before removing less mess
matt harper thanks dude, that’s such a good idea
Is it ok to put all 10qt oil in?
Hmoob Hawj specs only call for an extra half quart on the track, which you are to promptly remove afterwards. Best to stick to 9.5 quarts.
Excellent video !!!
Thank you, we’re glad you enjoyed it!
Not to be too critical: However, the links you posted for the Tekton torque wrench and crowfeet’s won’t work together. The torque wrench is ½ drive and the crowfeet are 3/8.
Well done! Thanks!
I think in C7's the real risk is over filling which apparently is something even dealerships can do. That's why they recommend it being done while warm instead of cold and somewhere between 9.4-9.7 quarts of oil
Great Video
What brand and viscosity of oil are most of you using for normal street driving? I just bought a used 2014 Z51 and the dealer out a fresh oil change on it, bit the salesman didn't have a clue what they used...
GM recommends using Mobile 1 5w-30 for everyday driving, Mobile 1 0w-40 for everyday driving and track use, or Mobile 1 15w-50 for track use. We use the 0w-40 for both daily and track.
Nice video but I own 2016 basic corvette which does not have a dry sump right? So which bolt do I have to remove?
Check out this page for help on identifying the wet sump bolt. www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-tech-performance/3485094-how-to-drain-fill-engine-oil-and-replace-oil-filter-wet-sump-specs.html
Nicely done!!!!
Can you explain why it’s recommended to use 15w-50 for the track?
The heavier weight handles the higher temps and increased load you will be putting on the engine at the track. Chevy has also later approved the 0W-40 for track and street use as well (see the description).
Do you recommend the AC delco oil filter over the m1 113 Mobil 1 filter?
Kane’s Garage we haven’t tried the Mobil 1 filter, but we’ve never had an issue with the AC Delco part. It has the added benefit of not affecting your warranty if you’re using OEM parts.
nicely done video, thanks
Greg Mihm thank you for the feedback, glad you liked the video!
I don't see the crow tool's link in description
You're right! Here you go: amzn.to/2J4DXHi
Question PF 64 is the right oil filter, but what about the eight digit number under PF64. I noticed on most videos they use the part with ending number 445 which is what you have. I also see that some recommend the PF 64 with the buttom serial number ending in 048. So are these two oil filters the same or there is a differnce between them and which one I really should choose for my Z06. Thanks.
A question on the 0w-40. Mobile 1 is recommending an "ESP" dexos approved variety. The link in the description is leading to a different "European Car Formula" that does not appear to have the dexos rating. Is the performance of this oils similar? It seems one is approved by GM and the other is not.
It’s a bit confusing, but that “European Formula” is the correct one.
i cringed when you tightened the oil filter that much even though GM recommends it lol
Yea, that one's going to be a pain when it seizes and the filter housing collapses.
If he ditten tightened it down it would of leak bad like mines did did u see how much more it went after he done it by hand, he had more then several turns to go, so yes I also said the same to but yes it must go all the way up inside so it won't leak, took mines in for a oil change and 3 days later I started to leak oil from the filter, as they only hand tightened also, big mistake cost me an additional 15 dollars to tighten it again to place on a car rack, WHO KNEW?
That's why u supposed to use oil around the top filters seal to prevent sieges
You should fill oil filter before you install it.
@Where Am I Absolutely. I'd also be concerned that tightening as was described you may deform the gasket and cause a leak. As Reginald Small suggested above: always fill the filter as much as you can before installing.
Curious... my dealer tells me to bring my Vette in hot before an oil change. That way all the contaminants are suspended in the old oil.
Warm will do the same thing and not burn your hands and arms.
Should have filled the filter before you installed it. gets oil to the bearings quicker. just my humble opinion.
There seems to be debate on that issue. GM specs do not call for it, but you are not the first to suggest it. Adding oil to the filter before installing it certainly can't hurt.
Nice garage 😎👍
Thanks!
When the engine is at operating temp where should the oil line be at? First line or top line?
Pedro full is at the top line - that's the maximum amount of oil you want in the car. The first (lower) line is your minimum. You want to be at the top line, or as close to it without overfilling as you can. Just be sure to check the oil on a level surface 5-10 minutes after getting the car warm and shutting down.
Thanks, I took it into a dealer for an oil change and they only put in the minimum. It just needs one more quart.
i just watched someone else put 6.5 quarts in. He only removed the drain plug on the verticle.
Do I need oil filter wrench to remove the filter, or can I do it by hand?
It depends on how tight it's on there. We always need the wrench when removing the filter.
@@SonsofSpeed For drain plug seal/gasket, we are supposed to replace it every oil change but I guess it's ok to reuse them if no damage etc? How many oil changes do they normally last. And I can only get those in dealers I suppose?
@@okaythen001 for us, they last about 2-3 years, and we change the oil every month or so during the summer (lots of track days). We keep a new one on hand and compare the gasket - if it looks flattened/sunken, we replace it. Coincidentally, we just replaced ours about 10 days ago!
My 2019 Grand Sport oil cap list esp 0w40.
Can I use 5w30 as you mentioned.
I do not track my car; just weekend driving.
Thank you,
Yes, for street driving the 5w-30 will work as well, the 0w-40 is just a dual purpose blend.
Sons of Speed Thank you,
Does it have a cover over the oil pan?
No, no cover over the oil pan.
Or under :-)
Anyone know make and model of torque wrench he's using? It looks like a Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight
That particular one is a Pittsburgh wrench, but it only goes up to 80 ft/lbs. This one is a better all-around wrench that you can use on this job and to tighten the lugs as well, as it goes up to 150lbs: amzn.to/2F4GXCk
Sons of Speed Thx! I just seen your reply. I ended up getting 4 Tektons, from the inch/lb up to the 250 ft/lb. I looked at the Pittsburghs and liked them. The Tektons had a little better feel in my hands. both are great wrenches for the light duty repairs I do. Great video!!
Great video!
Guessing it's the same on a z06?
Can walmart do this for me
Why not fill the filter with some oil b4 putting it on??
Richard Miller you certainly can, but with the dry sump, it’s not necessary. GM specs do not mention it.
For my 2017 Grand sport, I have oil somewhat above the hash marks on the dip stick when the engine is hot.
Which of the two plus would I remove to drain out an estimated 1/2 to 1 quart?
GeekWireless first, make sure you are checking the oil on a flat surface 5-10 minutes after shutting off the engine to ensure an accurate reading. To remove a small amount of oil, the best solution to remove a quart or two would be to siphon it out through the dipstick using an oil extractor. Barring that, the rearmost plug should have less oil above it than the front plug, but you'd have to put the plug back in rather quickly to avoid losing too much oil.
Thank you for the quick reply! Ok on the flat surface-it is flat. I considered using some type of extractor via the dip stick, but from I can tell, it feels like the dip stick is not thru a regular round tube--it seems to insert into a flat section lower down. So, I am not usre if an oil extractor would fit. Where would I expect to get one if that is workable?
GeekWireless GM released a TSB technical service bulletin if filled to the top of the hash marks its actually 1/2 qt over I fill mine to just above the very bottom mark on the dip stick about 1/2 qt low this eliminates all oil burping back into the complex PCV system and air intake air filter etc plus a good quality catch can will help as well I have RX
Thanks. Good info. Note. I was able to remove 1/2 Qt. excess oil via a hand Siphon from O'Reily.
The original siphon from Walmart had a larger tube and would get stuck in filler tube.
For your info I got an new 2017 GS as well stay away from Anderson Composites for carbon fiber I bought the rear taillight bezels and hood vent NONE of the carbon fiber fit and was poor quality I hope they will refund me.
Not a know it all But was a Auto Machinist for many years.Drain plugs out till barely a Drip.Magnetic Plugs replace stock.Oil filter off when plugs are open.
Fill oil filter before installing. RIP#3!!!
Great video! Eye protection though
Yes, good catch!
Thanks nice job
Our pleasure, thank you for the comment!
Good video. Thanks.
Love Ur wrk hv learnt something
Thank you so much, glad to have helped 😀