A couple of weeks ago we decided to give Restore Engine Treatment a shot in our tired 273 Dodge. Today we found a noticeable difference. Here's how it went.
This stuff is amazing, maybe not for a big muscle car. My Wrangler used to have low compression, and had a lot of blow by and blue smoke from exhaust. 500 miles after first can, no smoke and no longer have to top off the oil every gas fill up. Only use about half quart in 5k miles, as opposed to 3-4 before. It definitely gives a breath of life in tired engines like my jeep with 280k miles
Question for you, as to what product and how much you think I should use. I have a 1995 Subaru 1.8L 4-CYL boxer Impreza, 177,000 miles. I have 76 and 78 PSI dry compression in #2 and 4 of one head (driver side). This started a few days ago, we noticed while on a highway trip the power was weak and I can hear it missing as the RPMs drop from driving to idle. I don't have overheating, excessive oil consumption (drippy seals, I add a quart about every 900 miles), smoking, or fluids cross contamination. I'm waiting to have a leak down and another dry/wet compression test at a different shop. The first shop only did dry compression and wasn't too bright or helpful. If I end up having a head gasket leak between those two cylinders, what products would I possibly try to mend it? It must not be too bad of a leak, whatever it is, for the compression to build to 78psi dry. The other two good cylinders are 130ish psi. If it ends up being a valve leak, what products and strength could I try to get them clean? After cleaning, I will have valve clearances checked, as it's probably never been done. Thanks!
My 1988 chevy c1500 has 605,000 miles....started running a little rough and burning a little oil at about 500,000 miles...tried Restore, immediately noticed improvement. Been using it for the past 150,000..truck runs perfect. Not burning any oil....I am convinced I will make it to a million miles...by the way..my truck is all original, no rebuilds..change all fluids regularly..oil at 2000 miles. Trans once a year, radiator once a year, rear end every 2 years, power steering and brake fluid once a year..
It sounds like detonating because it probably is, and that means the Restore is working. You probably advanced the timing in response to the low compression, so when you restore the compression, you also need to either restore the timing or use high octane fuel or water injection to avoid detonation. So try backing off on the timing unless you want to use super gas or install water injection.
@@Transient901 in any case I tested it in an engine it either worked or it just burned it up, and done nothing for the engine. because it was beyond help i've never had it make it worse, and it just burned it up and did nothing the engine just burned it and it did nothing for it if your engine is that severely worn you cannot turn around and blame the product I think he thinks it made it worse ive used it a lot of times never had it make anything worse as I stated your engine is just so worn out it cannot help it
@@Transient901 the restore didnt make it worse he's blaming restore for making it worse that's his bald assertion because ive never seen it make it worse as I said it wither worked or it burned it up and did nothing for the engine
@Jesse Meza Getting upset about something like this is weak minded. It's clearly a joke about geographical location, not culture or people. So you can take your social justice rage and shove it up your asshole.
Seafoam works pretty good. I added it to my 318's oil once and within 500 miles it ate all the gunk out of the inside of the engine. Unfortunately for me that gunk was the only thing keeping me from leaking lol
I used restore 1 time, in a SBF, and a couple months later, on the way to the hospital with my wife for the birth of my 2nd daughter, it lost oil pressure and seized. On tear down it had clogged the oil galleys. I had put it in a thoroughly warmed up engine after warming the Restore in hot water on the stove and drove it 25 miles to mix it well. I have not used any oil additives for over 30 years.
Uncle Tony, I have used Engine Restore it in my 2014 Cadillac ATS, 2.0 Turbo. I have used ER since 50,000 miles. I now have 162,000 miles on the car now. I drove to Las Vegas and got 3 .mpg. My engine runs better then when I got it with 42,000 miles. I'm sorry you had bad luck with your truck. I SWEAR BY THIS PRODUCT !! Just FYI...I use the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, and Mobil-1 high mileage oil, 5W-30, and one can of Engine Restore, ( 6-cylinder formula). And...compression....the car goes well over 100 mph without much effort. Thank you Uncle Tony for your video.
Uncle Tony, try 15W-40 diesel oil. Trust me, it works well on engines with "moderately" worn rings, providing better ring to cylinder wall sealing. It helped reduce oil consumption from
Engine Restorer works well when used in normal driving conditions, and does increase the compression on older engines. But if an old engine is badly worn out and needs a total rebuild.... it won't help much . When an engine gets that bad.... it needs to go to the machine shop.
You got to realize the rings, Top is compression, middle is compression and oil control, and the bottom rails are oil control, you got power, not using a lot of oil, the rings rotate in the direction of the hone job, but the block is worn th top inch of the cylinder. I like to build Poor boy race motors, it could be any but for me its 20R or 22R Toyota's, I usually spin a bearing in them at 100,000 miles, you can cut the ring groove out and hone them and using stock replacement rings it creates a low tension rings Loose race motor using stamdard rings. New rings, turn the crank 10/30 and run premium and 100 octaine aviation fuel! Fun motors! An old V8 with 200-300,000 thousand miles the top inch is worn so much you can't clean it up with a hone. The cylinders an inchto an 1-1/2 inch down thew cylinder is sealing like a new engine, your oil consuption/lack of compression is in the top of the stroke. You never say what oil you run but any motor I run with over 50,000 or 80,000 I run 40 weight oil in. I am a big fan of 40 weight, not 10w-40, straight 40 weight. Fountain Powerboats did a test using all kinds of oils and Castrol 40w had a 8hp advantage over ALL oils, (in their new race boat engines) next was Castrol 10-40 with 5 hp advantage, and the rest all baselined about the same. ANyway my point is your rings are still doing their job, the block is worn causing the compression leak/oil consomption. Once the rings get stuck in the pistons you'll start getting fouled plugs and have to use the anti foulers from back when we were kids. one cylinder start oiling they would put an anti fouler between the plug and head, I had a '64 Doddge 400 with a 318 zig zag motor, it had a push button auto trans, they had a front and rear pump, you could pull it 40 mph and mash the "d" button, it would pull start it! Probably the only auto trans you could do that with!
I used the restore in an old worn out 305 that was down in power and used oil. It definatly helped by using way less oil and i could feel a slight increase in power
I'm interested to see how the oil looks after the oil change. Some times that stuff works for engines, other times it doesn't. This is what the experiment is all about. It tickles my curiosity but I'm not getting disappointed with the result. It'll make us a bit wiser in the end. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks for the follow up video and your lack of bias with the product. I've a 940 wagon with 255k miles on it and while it doesn't smoke, I considered using it depending on how it went for you. Not going to..engine still runs strong and doesn't smoke..ain't broke don't fix it sorta thing.
My 2cents , High mile engines - use heavier weigh oil for 1000km ( 600 ml ) drain and only use heavy w oil from then at the usual replacement . Was a tip from an retired aged mechanic and it worked wonders for my straight 6 jeep .
I do recall on the first video where Uncle was running the gps timer and the cat was smoking quite a bit. The Restore fixed my 2.0 4 cylinder and has been running like a champ for 2 years
My guess is that the compression did come up. Exasperating other isuues such as ignition timing needing to be changed or carb tune. If the compression came up im thinking it altered the tune it needed completely
In my experience Restore engine treatment is good for wear caused by poor maintenance, mainly extended periods between oil changes. It works to fill in cylinder wall and piston scoring from dirty oil and contaminated or missing air filters . It has little effect on worn rings and taper in cylinder walls.
I had a 79 Ford f 150 with a 400 cid engine. I used it CONSISTENTLY at every oil change for over 3 years . After 6 months I noticed a considerable improvement . After 3 years I tore the engine down for a complete rebuild : HOT ROD FASHION , new 10 to 1 slugs , lumpy cam,headers, etc ..even put in a custom ( Redneck style - interior - power seats from a Lincoln town car - the SPL it bench seat in the Town car fit perfect as a set of bucket seats in the F-150 heated power cushy comfy seats install the cruise control system and now I have a redneck riding in style
Many moons ago, I used that stuff to get an other 20,000 miles out of a 76 Firebird with a 355. we weren't running it hard, but we did get her up to some good speeds. The CSL is supposed to be copper, silver and lead(be aware) particles, basically, the idea was to dump it in the engine, and combustion chamber heat would melt the particles into solder and fill the scratches in the cylinder wall. It's no replacement for a rebuild.
Hey Uncle Tony. Glad to see that your firewall is just as dirty as mine, lol! Meant to clean mine up when I threw in the V8 but... Oh well. Anyways, feels good to be early.
Anyone old enough to remember the JC Whitney catalogs probably remembers their "Liquid engine rebuild" where you dropped pellets into each cylinder, added some potion and VIOLA! New engine!lol! Same crap, easier to use....
I had an old Pontiac 400 in a 79 firebird.I bought a wrecked 77 T/A my and swapped it.It had untold miles. I drove it back and forth from Tampa to Chattanooga many times. I used this stuff every other oil change. It was still running when I sold it seven years later. It improved oil pressure and I guess it helped it live longer.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, just like a chebby! Lol! It worked in the 302 I had in my one ton but I went through about 14L of oil and 1500 miles of towing for it to seal the motor up. Front of trailer was dripping in oil from the duals, but after reaching my destination I noticed it seemed to be revving cleaner and it went from 1L per 300 km's to 1/2 L in 5000km's. (1/2 L between oil changes) ran the motor 3 more years.
I use low doses of Marvel in the oil and gas tank as a long-term maintenance dose to lube the top end and and to keep rings from sticking. I won't use anything else and Marvel Mystery Oil has brought a few cars back from the dead for me over the years.
It cured a ticking lifter in my 1973 Buick Gran Sport low compression 350 that later on became the quickest Buick 350 powered car... after I sold it, that is, and about 20K later
I had an old 292 in my Ford years ago and used this stuff. It seemed to stabilize the motor and gave me a little more power.. I wasn't racing it at all. But when I changed the oil it got alot worse without it immediately. I noticed a substantial power loss and bought another can for the fresh oil. I give RESTORER a 👍
I use to use that years ago figuring what can it hurt. Every now and then i cut the oil filter open. I did that once after using that, it looked like it was all trapped in the filter.
Would that cause the loss in performance? Or maybe the can didn't do anything and that quarter mile run really beat up what was left of the ring and and that's why it's slower? I saw project farm test some in an old diesel tractor and he was happy with the results. I bought a can and now I don't know if I should use it.
I've used it with moderate success, though not on a drag strip. I wonder if the Restore could have cleaned out soot that was helping seal the rings? in which case the engine should NOT come back with the oil change. I also like Yale Overhaul Pellets and wish they were still made.
We did a similar experiment 35 years ago on a city bound daily runner which had varying compression over all six cylinders with the worst at least 20psi on the others. Dropped the oil and refilled with a high detergent diesel oil and ran it for a couple on months.Hey presto, the compressions all raised to within 5 ponds of each other. Obviously the diesel oil had ungummed the rings and let them gain a bit more tension, but could've gone the other way and lost psi if the rings were broken and only sealing with carbon etc. The engine replacement held off to a later date. :)
I've had good luck in my 68 HP H Code 383 using the Restorer. Engine has 120K miles with original rings/bearings, etc. Lots of blowby fume would come out of the PCV grommet when the valve was removed during idle. After restorer fume was nil coming out of the grommet. Didnt do a compression check before/after...but the car definitely has more power and the engine is much more responsive off idle when the throttle is flicked. As Uncle Tony says, I think it depends of the vehicle/engine and what the wear level of components are.
Added to my 01 Corolla and she stalled after a couple of blocks. My mechanic had switched to 20W50 because she was burning too much 10W30. After the change in oil, she would belch heavy smoke but adding the ER, she didn’t smoke as much. I traded her in for a 04 WJ and put some in last night. Fingers crossed all goes well, but we’ll see. Cheers 🥃
I think it would be interesting to know the leak down on this engine. Obviously the bores are tapered causing the blow by at high rpm, I agree Uncle T.
I’ve never had Restore actually make a marked improvement in an older engine. I have seen old engines with glazed cylinders get better ring seal by putting a small amount of Bon-ami powdered cleanser directly into each cylinder. Sounds crazy but it does work. JD
Yup, old circle track racers trick. Back in the 50's my dads buddy was running #96 at raceway park, Shakoppe Mn remember him tellin my dad cyl walls were glazed. Put in Bon-ami, then to work it hard, they pulled tow truck a block with race car. Bon-Ami (has a picture of little chic standing in freshly cracked open egg ) "Ain't scratched yet" is tag line.
My 7.3 diesel ambulance with about a million hours of run time used to blow the oil cap about 8 feet when loosened while running. After using CSR in it every oil change, the cap barely dances on the fill spout, and it's been going solid for over 8 years of abuse towing 14k+ pounds of tools and trailers up the passes like a trooper. I don't think I've ever seen it get less than 18mpg while doing it either. You can say it's crap all you want, but it's worked wonders on ALL the engines I've used it in.
Guessing that whatever this 'magic can' has in it probably packs behind/around the rings and keeps them from fluttering, without being strong enough to wipe bearings or thick enough to clog passages. So it'll work if you baby the engine afterwards, but the first time you really crank on it you'll undo everything and probably even worse because it'll take some carbon or goo with it.
snake oil was actually a real product that actually worked. Then the traveling salesman ruined it with whatever they were pushing, usually booze and weird stuff.
Now that you had it in for a bit and drove it. Drain the oil, put a good quality oil in with one quart of dura lube ( which is a compound similar to aviation oil additive) and a pint of high tack. Run it again and watch what happens with the time and performance. You will get an immediate compression increase following the initial restore treatment after about 50 to a hundred miles, but it will not completely stop oil bypass entirely. If the restore is left in and you do hard performance runs on an engine with excessive wear? The byproducts in the engine restore which are meant to fill micro abrasion in the cylinder walls will mix and burn with the fuel in the cylinders under heavy load causing detonation changes that rob power and hinder its performance. You can use the restore, but if your going to make performance runs on a tired engine, get it out. Otherwise for everyday driving it's fine to leave in.
EXPERT, Amatuer mech-CAN-ic here guys. Had the super rare, now COVETED 1982 chevy camaro. Berlinetta with what would appear to be a two stroke iron Duke four pot. The way it smoked....using the 8 cyl formula would hamper, by a useful amount the smoke and its generous external oiling. Don't use it in something you care about. Good stuff as always Uncle Tony. Mighty fine fogger you got there!
@@modelnutty6503 at work, sometimes we gotta mess with small engines along with the normal ones. I've had happen quite a bit where a compression check gives good numbers , and a leakdown shows like 40% so I'm not much of a fan of a compression gauge anymore.
MrHillfolk If what you’re talking about is 2 strokes, for me with chainsaws they often feel like they have good compression but they’re scored and have the ring seized on the exhaust port side- due to the direction they rotate the rod thrusts the piston against that side of the cylinder during the compression stroke so the compression feels perfect. The only way I could ever tell is that the engine seems to spin with more drag since it doesn’t rebound fully off the compression
@@ghettobikelife8833 Nah ,the small stuff we have to mess with is usually stuff like Briggs v twins and stuff. They like popping head gaskets and leaking the compression to the crankcase and overwhelming the breather. Let it go and it'll oil up the air filter. A quick check on them is to run em and hook a vacuum gauge to the oil filler. They should pull vacuum and not blow oil out at ya. Do a leakdown and hear the hiss from the oil filler or breather , might as well lift the head. There's a oil drain passage that is near the cylinder and the gaskets always blow at that spot.
I have a question which engine do you think would be better to build for a daily driver but it’ll be roughhoused and run down the strip a little bit. A 383 6 pack or a 440 6 pack or do the 383 but leave it a 4bbl with either a 850 CFM Carter Thermoquad or a Holley of some kind? (I can build either I’m but not sure which would be better it’s gonna have a hydraulic flat tapper cam with a lift in the 480s and It’ll be followed with a 727 torqflite and 742 8 3/4 3.23 gears with positrac. this will be for a 69 Roadrunner I’m currently building) thanks in advance I love your videos you’re one of the biggest reasons why I got a MoPar.
Over the years I am a true believer in engine restore. But only for bad bearings. My mom had a 92 chevy g20 van with a 4.3 and started making rod bearing noises and I replaced the bearings and tried heavy oil and still knocked. Put a can of restore in and it would completely shut of for 3000 miles and thats how I knew it was due for an oil change it would start rapping. I'd never use it for rings
Probably just loosened the varnish around the rings allowing more oil to seep by on the intake stroke and the compression to drop a bit. Now if that was can of liquid chrome molly and some how adhered itself to the rings under heat & pressure......
I agree with rings! A 383 I tried to just re ring without checking the taper on the bores when I was young smoked only at high rpm took it apart 5 broken top rings!
Back in the sixties and seventies, JC Whitney sold an engine overhaul kit. I consisted of an oil additive and "pills that were dropped into the spark plug holes. One kit or two for "large V8 engines" like Cadillac, Chrysler, and Lincoln. I gave my brother a kit to "rebuild" his International pickup. He passed on it. Re-gifted it....
Is it just that its a worn engine and these high RPM hard runs just pushed it to hard and it would of done the same thing with or without the unicorn piss?
My pops has 2-92' Dodge caravans 3.3 liters.1 he found in an estate sale and got this garage kept 92' with just under 48,000 miles has just over 50k now then he has a 92' with over 200k miles.He uses a combination of 10w30/40 Shell Rotella T,1qaurt Amsoil 20w50 and Lucas engine treatment"which is like glue" and this van runs just as good as the one with low mileage running the Shell Rotella T only in it.This thing never smokes still has comparable power to the 50k van as well.Hes been doing oil tests since the 80's between all the drag cars, motors built and the street cars.He even got crazy not to long ago and bought about 10 oil filters hell maybe more and started cutting them in half to compare filter elements to the ones hes been using.
I’m in the Pontiac vibe club, which has the infamous 2.4 L Toyota oil burner. Various products are used here in there, however, the good mechanics Allstate, that it simply puts off the inevitable, engine swap or rebuilt
I tried it too on a diesel and had similar results to yours. I also failed on emissions testing with double the allowed maximum. Changed the oil and got it close to as it was but it's still not the same. Also passed the emissions with just the fresh oil change. Just barely but I passed.
Seeing before and after compression tests would be interesting. The idea behind this stuff is that it contains I think copper and lead and is supposed to fill in the wear in the cylinders or something along those lines. I’ve seen both sides where it’s raised compression on an engine 30-40% and I’ve seen this kind of thing as well. Hell I tried it my wore out 5.9 magnum just to see if it did anything and I saw no difference in drivability, power, oil burn and compression didn’t change at all. It might as well have been plain oil for me. I had more luck with a high mileage oil which leads me to believe most of my issues are valve seal related though I’m sure the rings aren’t great either.
I DON'T (yet) have experience with a "worn" engine (but I'm about to - LOL). I've heard testimonies of HUGE improvements using XcelPlus (current trademark for the original "Slick 50" formula). My only experience was on a new (I waited till it was well and truly run-in) 1992 Subaru Brumby. BRILLIANT stuff. (One slight drawback, the reduction in friction was so extreme, on a COLD winter morning I'd have to run it AT LEAST 10 mins to get enough heat in to START to defrost the windscreen - negating any of the alleged fuel savings). When I finally sold the car, the engine had already done 150% of the typical engine rebuild mileage (had never had a failure of any kind), still ran fine and did not burn oil. I have no doubt XcelPlus MASSIVELY boosted the engine life. I now have a neglected 2006 Holden VZ, it's showing signs of timing chain stretch, reduced power, and burns around 2 quarts per 1,000 miles. I'm going to try a de-sludge protocol, then treat it with XcelPlus and see if I can get another lease of life out of it (an engine rebuild is not in my budget due to unemployment).
Well this is as good a review as one could possibly get and the proof seems there - it didn't work on this engine that probably needed it and actually made it worse. Tony, I didn't hear you say you did a before and after compression test. Rings are all about compression (power), so if this product is supposed to improve ring sealing then there should be a noticeable rise in compression across the board. I think that would have been a worthwhile thing to do (bit late now though I suppose , if it's already been added).
Question for you, as to what product and how much you think I should use. I have a 1995 Subaru 1.8L 4-CYL boxer Impreza, 177,000 miles. I have 76 and 78 PSI dry compression in #2 and 4 of one head (driver side). This started a few days ago, we noticed while on a highway trip the power was weak and I can hear it missing as the RPMs drop from driving to idle. I don't have overheating, excessive oil consumption (drippy seals, I add a quart about every 900 miles), smoking, or fluids cross contamination. I'm waiting to have a leak down and another dry/wet compression test at a different shop. The first shop only did dry compression and wasn't too bright or helpful. If I end up having a head gasket leak between those two cylinders, what products would I possibly try to mend it? It must not be too bad of a leak, whatever it is, for the compression to build to 78psi dry. The other two good cylinders are 130ish psi. If it ends up being a valve leak, what products and strength could I try to get them clean? After cleaning, I will have valve clearances checked, as it's probably never been done. Thanks!
I've been mechanicing for about twenty years (and certainly don't have the breadth of knowledge you do). I've had some old muscle from the 60's, and I've noticed that more modern products like Engine Restore usually doesn't produce the results that are advertised. I used that stuff in my 1990 Iron Duke and saw some Improvement, albeit marginal. Great vid, love your channel.
The only engine I used this on was an 88 2.0L Cavalier that was not worth fixing, so I tried all the snake oil fixes to see if anything changed. Nothing ever did, some of the thickener stuff made the oil burn slightly less quickly but I'd still burn enough to run dry in less than 5 hours of driving instead of 3-4 hours.
I tried it one time in a 454 -no change in performance but the rod bearings went away soon after. That stuff has copper particles in it that are easy to see.!
So, do they make a product for the heads? like to build up the valve-guides etc? Head job in a can? Another thing, did you have to remove so much oil from the crank case to make room for this product to flow in without over filling the crank case? Too much product will begin to build up pressure and start pushing it out thru the worn out rings. And that may be why it was crop-dusting?
First time I used it, it worked exactly as advertised. Second and third times in different engines.... nothing. It must have something to do with the oil and metallurgy. I’d be curious to know what it is. 🤷🏼♂️
Bores out of round and tapered beyond the capabilites of the rings at high rpm uncle tony? Even with a descent film of oil and crosshatch pattern it makes it very hard for a round odject to take the “egg” shape at high speed. No expert just a thought
I would really appreciate it if if you talked a little about how to do a budget build on a 360la for a '81 W250. I have the NP435 4 speed, and while I don't expect it to be ready for the drag strip I would low some more low end torque & HP for the highway, smoking the tires would be a plus. Is a cam, heads (magnum heads?), & a better intake going to get me there, or do I really need to machine the block, pistons etc? Again budget is the key, & I really don't want to have to do a LS swap. Thank you!
Ive had good results using Wynns SuperCharge on high mileage engines that burn/leak huge amounts of oil.. Usually got oil usage down from ridiculous level to under 1liter (about a us quart) per 1000km/600 miles which I consider good enough on older cars. It doesnt really improve compression or power, but not having to add oil on a weekly basis and change sparkplugs every couple of months is a big win considering a can of that stuff costs about the same as 1 sparkplug does.
wdl1981 My first car was a 68 Dart GT. Bucket seats, console, auto trans....and the 273 V8. Great car. Was not fast off the block, but could hold it's own down the road.
Slick 50 my friend. Installed junk yard 318,smoked bad,good valve guides and seals. Changed oil at 500mi. after 1st change with additive,again after1500mi. and again after 3000mi. which was a long turnpike cruise from fl.to ny.and back. Coming back only used 1qt.oil and clean exhaust and pipe. Dad swore by Marvel Mystery oil and added 1/2 guart to oil and the rest in the tank in every new Plymouth and dodge he bought!!! Didn't try it with this swap.
YMMV oh well. I've used restore 20+ years on old engines, gas & diesel. I have also used heavier weight oil in some old style pushrod engines with very good results . But not the overhead cam ones. Currently get the best results from Valvoline high milage semi synthetic. And just now trying AT-205 additive for seals.
It works primarily on the valve guides and seals to prevent plug fouling and related oil loss not practical for worn out bores or rings. Just for engines that have been sitting for a long time and not worn out but sticky leaky etc this stuff will help that kind of condition.
It's possible that the chemical cure also cleaned 50+ years of carbon and sludge out of the ring lands and out of the oil control rings resulting in what you experienced. Similar circumstances used to happen back in the day with old scummy engines and a lifetime of paraffin-based motor oil use when someone would switch to naphtha-based oil, whether intentional or inadvertently, the result was the same. Increased oil usage and smoke under acceleration and decreased power, the same things you experienced.
Are we thinking it loosed he rings up or let the rings more freely to another wear groove. Or did the high rpms allow the process of oil leaking by? Ether way I would say a poor tired motor is giving up its ghost.
I remember some stuff in the 80's that you had to pour into the cylinder at TDC and let it sit for a few hours (repeat for each cylinder so it took some time)...I didn't work either.
GM still uses a version of that stuff to fix excessive oil consumption in their displacement on demand ls v8 engines, guess what it doesn't work either.
![ไม่ต้องมีที่ที่ให้ฉันอยู่ แต่ขอแค่มีฉันอยู่ก็พอ (Spaceless) - getsunova [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4N8idbxZ-7M/mqdefault.jpg)
When I was a apprentice diesel mechanic 30 years ago my foreman told me there's only 2 things in a can that works.. wd40 and beer.
just dont combine or, confuse the two.
he was half right.
He missed the 3rd thing, unicorn piss
Smart fella
Wd40 is like light beer... not good for much... its all about that pd blaster
Rim job in the can? Sounds like the wrong kind of prison movie. Don't watch it Uncle Tony! Just don't do it!
Rim job in the can? Isn't that an old Ron Jeremy movie?
You guys, stop it! HAHA. Rim job in a can.....
You've just ruined living for me.
I think u meant a gay porno
@@lakevapor5182 shh was supposed to be a secret!
This stuff is amazing, maybe not for a big muscle car. My Wrangler used to have low compression, and had a lot of blow by and blue smoke from exhaust. 500 miles after first can, no smoke and no longer have to top off the oil every gas fill up. Only use about half quart in 5k miles, as opposed to 3-4 before. It definitely gives a breath of life in tired engines like my jeep with 280k miles
It works on a jk ticking noise?
Thinking about using it in my 4.0 Jeep TJ but I’ve only got 117k miles and runs great, just curious if it would run “better”.
Question for you, as to what product and how much you think I should use. I have a 1995 Subaru 1.8L 4-CYL boxer Impreza, 177,000 miles. I have 76 and 78 PSI dry compression in #2 and 4 of one head (driver side). This started a few days ago, we noticed while on a highway trip the power was weak and I can hear it missing as the RPMs drop from driving to idle.
I don't have overheating, excessive oil consumption (drippy seals, I add a quart about every 900 miles), smoking, or fluids cross contamination. I'm waiting to have a leak down and another dry/wet compression test at a different shop. The first shop only did dry compression and wasn't too bright or helpful.
If I end up having a head gasket leak between those two cylinders, what products would I possibly try to mend it? It must not be too bad of a leak, whatever it is, for the compression to build to 78psi dry. The other two good cylinders are 130ish psi.
If it ends up being a valve leak, what products and strength could I try to get them clean? After cleaning, I will have valve clearances checked, as it's probably never been done.
Thanks!
What year is your Wrangler??
@@dad3562 If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Your 4.0L is still breaking in at only 117k!! My '93 XJ has 158K and runs fine. Let it run, man!
I'm still laughing at borrowing compression from one cylinder to another to balance it out.
That was no joke, cylinder 1 was sharing the extra compression it had with the poor less fortunate cylinder 4 😄
That's the magic of unicorn piss
F**kin unicorn piss, works every time 😄🙃
I`m still laughing at that 55 mph sign.
I know. I had a 73 Gran Torino 351c. It "borrowed" compression from all 8 cyls to "balance" it out it smoked so bad! haha
My 1988 chevy c1500 has 605,000 miles....started running a little rough and burning a little oil at about 500,000 miles...tried Restore, immediately noticed improvement. Been using it for the past 150,000..truck runs perfect. Not burning any oil....I am convinced I will make it to a million miles...by the way..my truck is all original, no rebuilds..change all fluids regularly..oil at 2000 miles. Trans once a year, radiator once a year, rear end every 2 years, power steering and brake fluid once a year..
It sounds like detonating because it probably is, and that means the Restore is working. You probably advanced the timing in response to the low compression, so when you restore the compression, you also need to either restore the timing or use high octane fuel or water injection to avoid detonation. So try backing off on the timing unless you want to use super gas or install water injection.
Thats a pretty large amount of assumption and conjecture, which seems to be a common denominator of internet telepaths.
@@Transient901 FU2
@@alan6832 LOL!!! Poor baby
@@Transient901 in any case I tested it in an engine it either worked or it just burned it up, and done nothing for the engine. because it was beyond help i've never had it make it worse, and it just burned it up and did nothing the engine just burned it and it did nothing for it if your engine is that severely worn you cannot turn around and blame the product I think he thinks it made it worse ive used it a lot of times never had it make anything worse as I stated your engine is just so worn out it cannot help it
@@Transient901 the restore didnt make it worse he's blaming restore for making it worse that's his bald assertion because ive never seen it make it worse as I said it wither worked or it burned it up and did nothing for the engine
Ah yes! That place in Mexico where they use 55 MPH speed signs 😂.
Little known fact, they use the same sign but it means meters per hora down there.
Same same 😂 😂
@Jesse Meza Acomplejada!
Mexico no es una raza genia, es un país.
@Jesse Meza Getting upset about something like this is weak minded. It's clearly a joke about geographical location, not culture or people. So you can take your social justice rage and shove it up your asshole.
Look up Mexico Indiana
It’s almost like to rebuild an engine you must rebuild the engine. You out here doing God’s work my dude.
Man I'm amazed by Mexico's old growth woods...
Northeast Mexico.
@@CamaroAmx riiiight...
@@CamaroAmx Northeast Mexico is straight up desert
And a collective sigh of relief from engine rebuilders everywhere! LOL!!
Yeah man, I thought I was going to be homeless soon, dodged that bullet!
Seafoam works pretty good. I added it to my 318's oil once and within 500 miles it ate all the gunk out of the inside of the engine. Unfortunately for me that gunk was the only thing keeping me from leaking lol
These are different products designed for different uses.
I feel ya
Lucas Oil Engine Oil Stop Leak would be your next step.
Keeping you from leaking? I thought we were talking engines here! 🤔😉
Dude, you’re awesome. You remind me of life when I grew up. Thanks for doing your videos
Project farm did a nice video on this stuff and had good results
I used restore 1 time, in a SBF, and a couple months later, on the way to the hospital with my wife for the birth of my 2nd daughter, it lost oil pressure and seized. On tear down it had clogged the oil galleys. I had put it in a thoroughly warmed up engine after warming the Restore in hot water on the stove and drove it 25 miles to mix it well. I have not used any oil additives for over 30 years.
You have to mix the can BEFORE you put it in.
I blame leaded fuel, our motors were always nasty inside because of it.
most likely it just got some caked up carbon and gunk moving around the oil passages
My dad used it in a 1978 ford f250 with 400m. Did the same to his truck.
They're just stealing money nine bucks at a time.
I've used it, and it provided lasting increase compression in all cylinders
You don't even have a compresion gauge. Meth is bad for you.
Scotty's laughing in his computer chair on the porch across the way, there. 😂
He's an asshat.
@@tarstarkusz elaborate pls
@@Carlos.Rivera Clickbait king. He sucks. His videos SUCK.
@@tarstarkusz finally someone who i agree with
@@tarstarkusz he is the click bait king but his videos are great, best mechanic channel out.
Seems like maybe its a good preventative for engines that are not too far gone
Im eating a giant slice of cheesecake while i watch this.
I just finished nine Oreos, or would be joining you.
Envy. Cheesecake is the shit.
It’s 🌮 Tuesday over here in Riverside, Ca. I’m about to stack em up.
I had cheesecake from kfc about an hour ago
Chewy chips ahoy here
Uncle Tony, I have used Engine Restore it in my 2014 Cadillac ATS, 2.0 Turbo. I have used ER since 50,000 miles. I now have 162,000 miles on the car now. I drove to Las Vegas and got 3 .mpg. My engine runs better then when I got it with 42,000 miles. I'm sorry you had bad luck with your truck. I SWEAR BY THIS PRODUCT !! Just FYI...I use the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, and Mobil-1 high mileage oil, 5W-30, and one can of Engine Restore, ( 6-cylinder formula). And...compression....the car goes well over 100 mph without much effort. Thank you Uncle Tony for your video.
Love how humble you are, very good review.
Uncle Tony, try 15W-40 diesel oil. Trust me, it works well on engines with "moderately" worn rings, providing better ring to cylinder wall sealing. It helped reduce oil consumption from
Engine Restorer works well when used in normal driving conditions, and does increase the compression on older engines. But if an old engine is badly worn out and needs a total rebuild.... it won't help much . When an engine gets that bad.... it needs to go to the machine shop.
Exactly, well said. Now, where'd all the auto machine shops go??... . . .
The way that car looks sits and sounds makes me happy
You got to realize the rings, Top is compression, middle is compression and oil control, and the bottom rails are oil control, you got power, not using a lot of oil, the rings rotate in the direction of the hone job, but the block is worn th top inch of the cylinder. I like to build Poor boy race motors, it could be any but for me its 20R or 22R Toyota's, I usually spin a bearing in them at 100,000 miles, you can cut the ring groove out and hone them and using stock replacement rings it creates a low tension rings Loose race motor using stamdard rings. New rings, turn the crank 10/30 and run premium and 100 octaine aviation fuel! Fun motors! An old V8 with 200-300,000 thousand miles the top inch is worn so much you can't clean it up with a hone. The cylinders an inchto an 1-1/2 inch down thew cylinder is sealing like a new engine, your oil consuption/lack of compression is in the top of the stroke. You never say what oil you run but any motor I run with over 50,000 or 80,000 I run 40 weight oil in. I am a big fan of 40 weight, not 10w-40, straight 40 weight. Fountain Powerboats did a test using all kinds of oils and Castrol 40w had a 8hp advantage over ALL oils, (in their new race boat engines) next was Castrol 10-40 with 5 hp advantage, and the rest all baselined about the same. ANyway my point is your rings are still doing their job, the block is worn causing the compression leak/oil consomption. Once the rings get stuck in the pistons you'll start getting fouled plugs and have to use the anti foulers from back when we were kids. one cylinder start oiling they would put an anti fouler between the plug and head, I had a '64 Doddge 400 with a 318 zig zag motor, it had a push button auto trans, they had a front and rear pump, you could pull it 40 mph and mash the "d" button, it would pull start it! Probably the only auto trans you could do that with!
Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. I've had good luck with it but not everytime. Love the channel Tony.
I used the restore in an old worn out 305 that was down in power and used oil. It definatly helped by using way less oil and i could feel a slight increase in power
Literally was in the middle of typing my question, and Tony answered it hahaha 😅 love the videos keep it up tony
ProjectFarm had great success with Engine Restore.
Was totally thinking that lol
I'm interested to see how the oil looks after the oil change. Some times that stuff works for engines, other times it doesn't. This is what the experiment is all about. It tickles my curiosity but I'm not getting disappointed with the result. It'll make us a bit wiser in the end. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks for the follow up video and your lack of bias with the product. I've a 940 wagon with 255k miles on it and while it doesn't smoke, I considered using it depending on how it went for you. Not going to..engine still runs strong and doesn't smoke..ain't broke don't fix it sorta thing.
That stuff works great. I've used it on high mileage engines and have had great results.
Does it work with fully synthetic engine oil? Like full synthetic Amsoil?
@@MI-mx3rh Yes sir. It should. Only engine it does Not work in is Ford Powerstroke diesels, idk why, but says it on every can.
Yeah, with that YT name, for suuuurreee it works lol
My 2cents , High mile engines - use heavier weigh oil for 1000km ( 600 ml ) drain and only use heavy w oil from then at the usual replacement . Was a tip from an retired aged mechanic and it worked wonders for my straight 6 jeep .
I do recall on the first video where Uncle was running the gps timer and the cat was smoking quite a bit. The Restore fixed my 2.0 4 cylinder and has been running like a champ for 2 years
My guess is that the compression did come up. Exasperating other isuues such as ignition timing needing to be changed or carb tune. If the compression came up im thinking it altered the tune it needed completely
In my experience Restore engine treatment is good for wear caused by poor maintenance, mainly extended periods between oil changes. It works to fill in cylinder wall and piston scoring from dirty oil and contaminated or missing air filters . It has little effect on worn rings and taper in cylinder walls.
Thanks, that is exactly what I was thinking.
I had a 79 Ford f 150 with a 400 cid engine. I used it CONSISTENTLY at every oil change for over 3 years . After 6 months I noticed a considerable improvement .
After 3 years I tore the engine down for a complete rebuild : HOT ROD FASHION , new 10 to 1 slugs , lumpy cam,headers, etc ..even put in a custom ( Redneck style - interior - power seats from a Lincoln town car - the SPL it bench seat in the Town car fit perfect as a set of bucket seats in the F-150 heated power cushy comfy seats install the cruise control system and now I have a redneck riding in style
Many moons ago, I used that stuff to get an other 20,000 miles out of a 76 Firebird with a 355. we weren't running it hard, but we did get her up to some good speeds.
The CSL is supposed to be copper, silver and lead(be aware) particles, basically, the idea was to dump it in the engine, and combustion chamber heat would melt the particles into solder and fill the scratches in the cylinder wall. It's no replacement for a rebuild.
Hey Uncle Tony. Glad to see that your firewall is just as dirty as mine, lol! Meant to clean mine up when I threw in the V8 but... Oh well. Anyways, feels good to be early.
Anyone old enough to remember the JC Whitney catalogs probably remembers their "Liquid engine rebuild" where you dropped pellets into each cylinder, added some potion and VIOLA! New engine!lol! Same crap, easier to use....
I remember for sure!! Had not thought of those rabbit pellets in years!!
I had an old Pontiac 400 in a 79 firebird.I bought a wrecked 77 T/A my and swapped it.It had untold miles. I drove it back and forth from Tampa to Chattanooga many times. I used this stuff every other oil change. It was still running when I sold it seven years later. It improved oil pressure and I guess it helped it live longer.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, just like a chebby! Lol! It worked in the 302 I had in my one ton but I went through about 14L of oil and 1500 miles of towing for it to seal the motor up. Front of trailer was dripping in oil from the duals, but after reaching my destination I noticed it seemed to be revving cleaner and it went from 1L per 300 km's to 1/2 L in 5000km's. (1/2 L between oil changes) ran the motor 3 more years.
All those additives do is empty the wallet, and plug up oil passages, marvel mystery oil only good one
I use low doses of Marvel in the oil and gas tank as a long-term maintenance dose to lube the top end and and to keep rings from sticking. I won't use anything else and Marvel Mystery Oil has brought a few cars back from the dead for me over the years.
Seafoam is good stuff like that too for ditching a lot of built up crud
Marlboro mystery oil
@@hitlercat7341 Something like that.
It cured a ticking lifter in my 1973 Buick Gran Sport low compression 350 that later on became the quickest Buick 350 powered car... after I sold it, that is, and about 20K later
I had an old 292 in my Ford years ago and used this stuff. It seemed to stabilize the motor and gave me a little more power.. I wasn't racing it at all. But when I changed the oil it got alot worse without it immediately. I noticed a substantial power loss and bought another can for the fresh oil. I give RESTORER a 👍
I knew you were gonna throw the can! 😂😂
I use to use that years ago figuring what can it hurt. Every now and then i cut the oil filter open. I did that once after using that, it looked like it was all trapped in the filter.
Might be that the rings are too far gone for the product to bandaid at this point.
That'd be my guess.
Yep
Would that cause the loss in performance? Or maybe the can didn't do anything and that quarter mile run really beat up what was left of the ring and and that's why it's slower? I saw project farm test some in an old diesel tractor and he was happy with the results. I bought a can and now I don't know if I should use it.
@@5000rgb That sounds likely to me. I've used it before and it did nothing. Good or bad.
I've used it with moderate success, though not on a drag strip. I wonder if the Restore could have cleaned out soot that was helping seal the rings? in which case the engine should NOT come back with the oil change. I also like Yale Overhaul Pellets and wish they were still made.
We did a similar experiment 35 years ago on a city bound daily runner which had varying compression over all six cylinders with the worst at least 20psi on the others. Dropped the oil and refilled with a high detergent diesel oil and ran it for a couple on months.Hey presto, the compressions all raised to within 5 ponds of each other. Obviously the diesel oil had ungummed the rings and let them gain a bit more tension, but could've gone the other way and lost psi if the rings were broken and only sealing with carbon etc. The engine replacement held off to a later date. :)
I've had good luck in my 68 HP H Code 383 using the Restorer. Engine has 120K miles with original rings/bearings, etc. Lots of blowby fume would come out of the PCV grommet when the valve was removed during idle. After restorer fume was nil coming out of the grommet. Didnt do a compression check before/after...but the car definitely has more power and the engine is much more responsive off idle when the throttle is flicked. As Uncle Tony says, I think it depends of the vehicle/engine and what the wear level of components are.
Used a can of this in my 79 T-Bird with a 351m. Idle seemed smoother.
Added to my 01 Corolla and she stalled after a couple of blocks. My mechanic had switched to 20W50 because she was burning too much 10W30. After the change in oil, she would belch heavy smoke but adding the ER, she didn’t smoke as much. I traded her in for a 04 WJ and put some in last night. Fingers crossed all goes well, but we’ll see. Cheers 🥃
I think it would be interesting to know the leak down on this engine. Obviously the bores are tapered causing the blow by at high rpm, I agree Uncle T.
RISLONE!!! REGULAR RISLONE . And I'm not in the Snake oil gallery. But that stuff is gold.
I’ve never had Restore actually make a marked improvement in an older engine. I have seen old engines with glazed cylinders get better ring seal by putting a small amount of Bon-ami powdered cleanser directly into each cylinder. Sounds crazy but it does work. JD
Old trick to seat rings on new motors, helps with glazed walls as well!
Really? the sign painter's soap?
@@AryDontSurf yes, when chrome faced piston rings were more common.
@@Ltmonte Too cool. thanks guys
Yup, old circle track racers trick. Back in the 50's my dads buddy was running #96 at raceway park, Shakoppe Mn remember him tellin my dad cyl walls were glazed. Put in Bon-ami, then to work it hard, they pulled tow truck a block with race car. Bon-Ami (has a picture of little chic standing in freshly cracked open egg ) "Ain't scratched yet" is tag line.
My 7.3 diesel ambulance with about a million hours of run time used to blow the oil cap about 8 feet when loosened while running.
After using CSR in it every oil change, the cap barely dances on the fill spout, and it's been going solid for over 8 years of abuse towing 14k+ pounds of tools and trailers up the passes like a trooper. I don't think I've ever seen it get less than 18mpg while doing it either. You can say it's crap all you want, but it's worked wonders on ALL the engines I've used it in.
Uncle Tony disapproves of this snake-oil. Fair opinion from a fair guy. Nice vids.
One of the best channels on TH-cam
Anyone notice Uncle Tony looks like George Carlin. Lol
honest review. good job
it was working,just a couple more runs and that engine would stop burning oil forever and stop using gas,moving under it's own power,ect.
Guessing that whatever this 'magic can' has in it probably packs behind/around the rings and keeps them from fluttering, without being strong enough to wipe bearings or thick enough to clog passages. So it'll work if you baby the engine afterwards, but the first time you really crank on it you'll undo everything and probably even worse because it'll take some carbon or goo with it.
They gotta milk a lot of snakes to get a can of that oil. 😏
snake oil was actually a real product that actually worked. Then the traveling salesman ruined it with whatever they were pushing, usually booze and weird stuff.
Crop dusting like crazy. I love it!!
Snake teats are really small.
Now that you had it in for a bit and drove it. Drain the oil, put a good quality oil in with one quart of dura lube ( which is a compound similar to aviation oil additive) and a pint of high tack. Run it again and watch what happens with the time and performance. You will get an immediate compression increase following the initial restore treatment after about 50 to a hundred miles, but it will not completely stop oil bypass entirely. If the restore is left in and you do hard performance runs on an engine with excessive wear? The byproducts in the engine restore which are meant to fill micro abrasion in the cylinder walls will mix and burn with the fuel in the cylinders under heavy load causing detonation changes that rob power and hinder its performance. You can use the restore, but if your going to make performance runs on a tired engine, get it out. Otherwise for everyday driving it's fine to leave in.
EXPERT, Amatuer mech-CAN-ic here guys. Had the super rare, now COVETED 1982 chevy camaro. Berlinetta with what would appear to be a two stroke iron Duke four pot. The way it smoked....using the 8 cyl formula would hamper, by a useful amount the smoke and its generous external oiling. Don't use it in something you care about. Good stuff as always Uncle Tony. Mighty fine fogger you got there!
How many miles did the iron duke have on it that it was smoking so bad?
Do a leak down test UT. Let's see how bad those valves or rings are.
yupyup, compression and leak down tells a lot.
@@modelnutty6503 at work, sometimes we gotta mess with small engines along with the normal ones.
I've had happen quite a bit where a compression check gives good numbers , and a leakdown shows like 40% so I'm not much of a fan of a compression gauge anymore.
MrHillfolk If what you’re talking about is 2 strokes, for me with chainsaws they often feel like they have good compression but they’re scored and have the ring seized on the exhaust port side- due to the direction they rotate the rod thrusts the piston against that side of the cylinder during the compression stroke so the compression feels perfect. The only way I could ever tell is that the engine seems to spin with more drag since it doesn’t rebound fully off the compression
@@ghettobikelife8833
Nah ,the small stuff we have to mess with is usually stuff like Briggs v twins and stuff.
They like popping head gaskets and leaking the compression to the crankcase and overwhelming the breather.
Let it go and it'll oil up the air filter.
A quick check on them is to run em and hook a vacuum gauge to the oil filler.
They should pull vacuum and not blow oil out at ya.
Do a leakdown and hear the hiss from the oil filler or breather , might as well lift the head.
There's a oil drain passage that is near the cylinder and the gaskets always blow at that spot.
I have a question which engine do you think would be better to build for a daily driver but it’ll be roughhoused and run down the strip a little bit. A 383 6 pack or a 440 6 pack or do the 383 but leave it a 4bbl with either a 850 CFM Carter Thermoquad or a Holley of some kind?
(I can build either I’m but not sure which would be better it’s gonna have a hydraulic flat tapper cam with a lift in the 480s and It’ll be followed with a 727 torqflite and 742 8 3/4 3.23 gears with positrac. this will be for a 69 Roadrunner I’m currently building)
thanks in advance I love your videos you’re one of the biggest reasons why I got a MoPar.
Tony cracks me up.
Every single car I’ve ever used ER in improved engine performance like a charm, Definitely noticeable
Over the years I am a true believer in engine restore. But only for bad bearings. My mom had a 92 chevy g20 van with a 4.3 and started making rod bearing noises and I replaced the bearings and tried heavy oil and still knocked. Put a can of restore in and it would completely shut of for 3000 miles and thats how I knew it was due for an oil change it would start rapping. I'd never use it for rings
Probably just loosened the varnish around the rings allowing more oil to seep by on the intake stroke and the compression to drop a bit.
Now if that was can of liquid chrome molly and some how adhered itself to the rings under heat & pressure......
I agree with rings! A 383 I tried to just re ring without checking the taper on the bores when I was young smoked only at high rpm took it apart 5 broken top rings!
I put it in a 72 Jeep 360 v8 and it didn't stop smoking until I drove it for 60 days. I didn't even race it I used it to commute.
Back in the sixties and seventies, JC Whitney sold an engine overhaul kit. I consisted of an oil additive and "pills that were dropped into the spark plug holes. One kit or two for "large V8 engines" like Cadillac, Chrysler, and Lincoln. I gave my brother a kit to "rebuild" his International pickup. He passed on it. Re-gifted it....
Is it just that its a worn engine and these high RPM hard runs just pushed it to hard and it would of done the same thing with or without the unicorn piss?
probably
Most likely
It DOES do the crop dusting regardless, as seen in other previous videos he's done.
It's worse with this crap added, though.
@@moparedtn yeah, but it was also worse on the 2nd run compared to the 1st. Rapid wear.
@@alzaidi7739 Or perhaps - the friction of added viscosity in the oil, coupled with what that stuff did to the spark plugs?
My pops has 2-92' Dodge caravans 3.3 liters.1 he found in an estate sale and got this garage kept 92' with just under 48,000 miles has just over 50k now then he has a 92' with over 200k miles.He uses a combination of 10w30/40 Shell Rotella T,1qaurt Amsoil 20w50 and Lucas engine treatment"which is like glue" and this van runs just as good as the one with low mileage running the Shell Rotella T only in it.This thing never smokes still has comparable power to the 50k van as well.Hes been doing oil tests since the 80's between all the drag cars, motors built and the street cars.He even got crazy not to long ago and bought about 10 oil filters hell maybe more and started cutting them in half to compare filter elements to the ones hes been using.
It does work if you give it time. I have used it then later tore the engine down and saw the results.
I’m in the Pontiac vibe club, which has the infamous 2.4 L Toyota oil burner. Various products are used here in there, however, the good mechanics Allstate, that it simply puts off the inevitable, engine swap or rebuilt
I tried it too on a diesel and had similar results to yours. I also failed on emissions testing with double the allowed maximum. Changed the oil and got it close to as it was but it's still not the same. Also passed the emissions with just the fresh oil change. Just barely but I passed.
Seeing before and after compression tests would be interesting. The idea behind this stuff is that it contains I think copper and lead and is supposed to fill in the wear in the cylinders or something along those lines. I’ve seen both sides where it’s raised compression on an engine 30-40% and I’ve seen this kind of thing as well. Hell I tried it my wore out 5.9 magnum just to see if it did anything and I saw no difference in drivability, power, oil burn and compression didn’t change at all. It might as well have been plain oil for me. I had more luck with a high mileage oil which leads me to believe most of my issues are valve seal related though I’m sure the rings aren’t great either.
I DON'T (yet) have experience with a "worn" engine (but I'm about to - LOL).
I've heard testimonies of HUGE improvements using XcelPlus (current trademark for the original "Slick 50" formula).
My only experience was on a new (I waited till it was well and truly run-in) 1992 Subaru Brumby. BRILLIANT stuff. (One slight drawback, the reduction in friction was so extreme, on a COLD winter morning I'd have to run it AT LEAST 10 mins to get enough heat in to START to defrost the windscreen - negating any of the alleged fuel savings). When I finally sold the car, the engine had already done 150% of the typical engine rebuild mileage (had never had a failure of any kind), still ran fine and did not burn oil. I have no doubt XcelPlus MASSIVELY boosted the engine life.
I now have a neglected 2006 Holden VZ, it's showing signs of timing chain stretch, reduced power, and burns around 2 quarts per 1,000 miles. I'm going to try a de-sludge protocol, then treat it with XcelPlus and see if I can get another lease of life out of it (an engine rebuild is not in my budget due to unemployment).
@@OhSoddit What is a good de-sludge protocol?
Well this is as good a review as one could possibly get and the proof seems there - it didn't work on this engine that probably needed it and actually made it worse. Tony, I didn't hear you say you did a before and after compression test. Rings are all about compression (power), so if this product is supposed to improve ring sealing then there should be a noticeable rise in compression across the board. I think that would have been a worthwhile thing to do (bit late now though I suppose , if it's already been added).
Yes, exactly what I thought. Before & after results never hurt. - take care
Question for you, as to what product and how much you think I should use. I have a 1995 Subaru 1.8L 4-CYL boxer Impreza, 177,000 miles. I have 76 and 78 PSI dry compression in #2 and 4 of one head (driver side). This started a few days ago, we noticed while on a highway trip the power was weak and I can hear it missing as the RPMs drop from driving to idle.
I don't have overheating, excessive oil consumption (drippy seals, I add a quart about every 900 miles), smoking, or fluids cross contamination. I'm waiting to have a leak down and another dry/wet compression test at a different shop. The first shop only did dry compression and wasn't too bright or helpful.
If I end up having a head gasket leak between those two cylinders, what products would I possibly try to mend it? It must not be too bad of a leak, whatever it is, for the compression to build to 78psi dry. The other two good cylinders are 130ish psi.
If it ends up being a valve leak, what products and strength could I try to get them clean? After cleaning, I will have valve clearances checked, as it's probably never been done.
Thanks!
I've been mechanicing for about twenty years (and certainly don't have the breadth of knowledge you do). I've had some old muscle from the 60's, and I've noticed that more modern products like Engine Restore usually doesn't produce the results that are advertised. I used that stuff in my 1990 Iron Duke and saw some Improvement, albeit marginal. Great vid, love your channel.
How many miles did the iron duke have on it that it was smoking?
@@gregorymalchuk272 the amount of smoke is small... very small. The mileage was around 250,000 at the time
The only engine I used this on was an 88 2.0L Cavalier that was not worth fixing, so I tried all the snake oil fixes to see if anything changed. Nothing ever did, some of the thickener stuff made the oil burn slightly less quickly but I'd still burn enough to run dry in less than 5 hours of driving instead of 3-4 hours.
I tried it one time in a 454 -no change in performance but the rod bearings went away soon after. That stuff has copper particles in it that are easy to see.!
So, do they make a product for the heads? like to build up the valve-guides etc?
Head job in a can?
Another thing, did you have to remove so much oil from the crank case to make room for this product to flow in without over filling the crank case? Too much product will begin to build up pressure and start pushing it out thru the worn out rings. And that may be why it was crop-dusting?
So is this an oil thinner ? like what you use with paint to make it squeeze threw small passages so you can spray it ? If so I think it is working !
First time I used it, it worked exactly as advertised. Second and third times in different engines.... nothing. It must have something to do with the oil and metallurgy. I’d be curious to know what it is. 🤷🏼♂️
Bores out of round and tapered beyond the capabilites of the rings at high rpm uncle tony? Even with a descent film of oil and crosshatch pattern it makes it very hard for a round odject to take the “egg” shape at high speed. No expert just a thought
I would really appreciate it if if you talked a little about how to do a budget build on a 360la for a '81 W250. I have the NP435 4 speed, and while I don't expect it to be ready for the drag strip I would low some more low end torque & HP for the highway, smoking the tires would be a plus. Is a cam, heads (magnum heads?), & a better intake going to get me there, or do I really need to machine the block, pistons etc? Again budget is the key, & I really don't want to have to do a LS swap. Thank you!
Ive had good results using Wynns SuperCharge on high mileage engines that burn/leak huge amounts of oil..
Usually got oil usage down from ridiculous level to under 1liter (about a us quart) per 1000km/600 miles which I consider good enough on older cars.
It doesnt really improve compression or power, but not having to add oil on a weekly basis and change sparkplugs every couple of months is a big win considering a can of that stuff costs about the same as 1 sparkplug does.
when you are 10 miles from the crusher, but only 2 miles from NAPA lol
wdl1981
My first car was a 68 Dart GT. Bucket seats, console, auto trans....and the 273 V8. Great car. Was not fast off the block, but could hold it's own down the road.
How is your plugs after adding that stuff ? That will give you more info !
I was scrolling for a good video until I see a U.T.G video and say finally something worth watching
If the rings are sticky and gunked up...it might work, if the rings are old and worn out....only new rings will fix that. IMHO.
Cheerz!!
Slick 50 my friend. Installed junk yard 318,smoked bad,good valve guides and seals. Changed oil at 500mi. after 1st change with additive,again after1500mi. and again after 3000mi. which was a long turnpike cruise from fl.to ny.and back. Coming back only used 1qt.oil and clean exhaust and pipe. Dad swore by Marvel Mystery oil and added 1/2 guart to oil and the rest in the tank in every new Plymouth and dodge he bought!!!
Didn't try it with this swap.
Try putting a bunch of 2 cycle oil in your gas Uncle Tony. (it's the best thing I know of to help seal the rings) ...temporarily.
YMMV oh well. I've used restore 20+ years on old engines, gas & diesel. I have also used heavier weight oil in some old style pushrod engines with very good results . But not the overhead cam ones.
Currently get the best results from Valvoline high milage semi synthetic.
And just now trying AT-205 additive for seals.
It works primarily on the valve guides and seals to prevent plug fouling and related oil loss not practical for worn out bores or rings. Just for engines that have been sitting for a long time and not worn out but sticky leaky etc this stuff will help that kind of condition.
WRONG!
@@henryfredette6735 No content loser...
It's possible that the chemical cure also cleaned 50+ years of carbon and sludge out of the ring lands and out of the oil control rings resulting in what you experienced. Similar circumstances used to happen back in the day with old scummy engines and a lifetime of paraffin-based motor oil use when someone would switch to naphtha-based oil, whether intentional or inadvertently, the result was the same. Increased oil usage and smoke under acceleration and decreased power, the same things you experienced.
Many years ago used it 4 times - in 2 chevys 2 olds--stopped lifters up in both Olds- chevys were fine
Are we thinking it loosed he rings up or let the rings more freely to another wear groove.
Or did the high rpms allow the process of oil leaking by?
Ether way I would say a poor tired motor is giving up its ghost.
I remember some stuff in the 80's that you had to pour into the cylinder at TDC and let it sit for a few hours (repeat for each cylinder so it took some time)...I didn't work either.
GM still uses a version of that stuff to fix excessive oil consumption in their displacement on demand ls v8 engines, guess what it doesn't work either.