Thanks mate, a simple job but really thorough explanation. Always more confident doing a job ive not tackled before when ive already seen exactly whats involved and know what to look out for. Top man! 👍🏻
Hi, thanks for getting in touch especially with such positive feedback. Really please that this video helped. I’ve always thought that is you understand the mechanics and how it works, it makes the job so much easier. More to come on Fiestas so keep an eye out. Thanks for your support, all the best 👍
Excellent video. Thanks very much. Changed the offside control arm on my mk7 1.0 Fiesta Zetec S 2013 today following your video. No problem at all. Thanks for doing the separate video
You sir have great taste in vehicles 🤘 thank you so much for the positive feedback. These lower suspension arms are notorious on the fiestas and I bet it was the passenger front that you replaced? Really pleased the video helped and you had no problem changing the arm out. Thanks again for your support and getting in touch 👍
@@greenautoservices the near side had been done at 33k miles by formula 1. This was the offside at 45k miles. Looked knackered! Clearly a weakness!! Thanks again
@@davidwardle1514 makes sense. The N/S is always first to go not long followed by the O/S. I’ve also replaced both arms on my Fiesta for the same reason. Super common fault across most Fiestas for sure. Keep an eye on the rear axle bushes, they’ll be next to go for sure 🤦♂️
Great video. Well explained, I just done my left side control arm on my fiesta and realised a was doing all wrong. i tightened inner bushes first and now I have clunking noise. Going to take off tomorrow and do it the way you do it and see if that noise goes away.
Hi, apologies for the late response. So how did taking the arm off go again? Did you manage to resolve the knocking issue? If that doesn't resolve the issue, check your anti-roll bar drop link ball joints and roll bar bushes. They are also a super common issue with Fiestas and undoubtedly they will need to be replaced at some point in its lifetime. Thanks for getting I touch. All the best
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. It’s a personal preference to have poly bushes fitted. Whilst the arm is out of the car then yes it’s the best time to do it. There are a lot of people who would replace the bushes with performance ones and of course would last longer than factory ones. Whether it would make a noticeable difference or not, not sure. Good luck though, sure you’ll nail it 👍🏼
Grear Video. Mine has just failed the MOT for the same fault. Frustratingly tho ive only had the same one (near front lower) replace not 12 months ago. Where i live its pothole city, could this be the reason? I have done a few this year sadly.
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch. Glad you enjoyed the video. Don't be disheartened, pot holes are everywhere in the UK regardless of how many times the local council fills them in. Sadly, the pot holes will undoubtedly be the cause of the worn ball joints. They are super common on the Fiestas too. And if it's not the ball joints, it's the tyres. Keep trying to avoid them. Thanks again for getting in touch and for your on-going support. ATB :)
I have a question for you. I have a 2012 Fiesta and from just about day one when i turn the steering wheel i hear and feel a knock coming from it. What is that? Great video love what you show makes working on my clown car even easier thank you.
Hi David, likewise, my Fiesta pretty much had a knock from the steering wheel / column. A known fault that can easily be rectified. The steering column has a section that allows the shaft to slide up and down as the wheel is turned. It’s higher up closer to the steering wheel and access to it is from the foot well up behind the dash. It is NOT the universal joint towards the bottom. Best thing to do, take out the pinch bolt that secures the column to the steering rack (just before it goes through the floor) then you can literally just slide the shaft down and out. Give it a clean and then treat it with grease. Just something to allow it to slide smoothly without any resistance. Then just reinstall in reverse order. Just remember to mark the column position to the steering wheel before taking it out so you know where it goes back afterward. There is a master spline so it can be located only in one way but always good to be safe. Give it a go and let me know if that resolves it.
My car just failed on ball joint but the tester said he can tell its a new part, so its either been fitted incorrectly or its a faulty part. Im thinking given that its a common issue the mechanic could prob do it with his eyes closed. How likely is it that it was fitted incorrectly?
The only easy thing you can do wrong when fitting them is damage the rubber boot that protects the ball joint. If fitting and it gets damaged then it will let moisture in straight away and start to corrode the ball joint quickly. Otherwise, it's idiot proof really. Also, brands play a roll and I've seen a cheap brands fail / wear very quickly just purely due to manufacturer defects. Sometime is good to pay a little extra more for a decent brand too, such as Delphi. Hope that helps and apologies for the delayed response.
Hi Matt, thanks for getting in touch. Yes, the suspension arm ball joint is what a new arm will come with that locates in the bottom of the hub. This video will guide you for replacing the ball joint and lower arm as one whole piece. Very common to fail an MOT as they are super common faults. Good luck and be safe when working under the car and please use axle stands! All the best and thanks for your on going support
Super helpful thanks. Just going to have to do this soon and looks a doddle if the bolts come out! Can you re-use the bolts and do you grease the bolts/thread when putting them back in? Cheers.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. Yes, so for the lower suspension arm bolts/nuts are as follows: ball joint/hub nut = 52Nm; front lower arm bolt = 65Nm + 180 degrees; rear lower arm bolt/nut = 103Nm + 180 degrees. Many thanks for your support and hope this information helps
Hi, so in principle the repair is the same yes, which is always good news. It's a little bit more fiddly though as a new control arm comes with a rear arm bush in it's own housing and it's tricky to get the bush housing bolts into position before putting the bolts through. You may need a good size pry bar to help ease it into place. Word of warning, it can be easy to cross thread the bolts when put them back into the subframe. Make sure you get the threads started by hand first (if will be a little difficult) then you'll avoid a serious problem. Take your time and I'm sure you'll be fine. Thanks for getting in touch and apologies for the late response.
I am trying to remove the bolt at the bottom of the clamp ,it has rusted in 15 years and will not turn drift or smash out, heat made no difference, it was only going to be a few minute job. Drill the hard bolt with a tungsten drill is next. 😢
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. So it's approx 1 hour labour (£70-£80 +vat) then the price of the whole arm, which will be around £30-£60 depending on brand, maybe a bit more. So total ball park, shouldnt' be anymore than £200 all in and that's rounding up. Hope that helps.
I was quoted "in the ballpark of £200, maybe a bit less" by my local garage. The part cost me £61 inc vat from Eurocarparts, so a saving of around £140 for the sake of 60-90 mins effort.
Awesome I'm based in Uxbridge are you open on Saturday I have an ford fiesta ST3 and my wheel is start shaking above 70,and I have a knocking noise when I hit a hole or a bump
@@nikyclau3966 sorry for the late reply. I’m actually not taking on any more work as the company is in preparation for relocation (abroad). I’d love to help but I am already fully booked up until the move. There will still be on going content for the future and I’m sure more specifically on Ford Fiestas so please keep an eye out. I appreciate you reaching out though and your on going support 🤘
Thanks mate, a simple job but really thorough explanation. Always more confident doing a job ive not tackled before when ive already seen exactly whats involved and know what to look out for. Top man! 👍🏻
Hi, thanks for getting in touch especially with such positive feedback. Really please that this video helped. I’ve always thought that is you understand the mechanics and how it works, it makes the job so much easier. More to come on Fiestas so keep an eye out. Thanks for your support, all the best 👍
Excellent video. Thanks very much. Changed the offside control arm on my mk7 1.0 Fiesta Zetec S 2013 today following your video. No problem at all. Thanks for doing the separate video
You sir have great taste in vehicles 🤘 thank you so much for the positive feedback. These lower suspension arms are notorious on the fiestas and I bet it was the passenger front that you replaced? Really pleased the video helped and you had no problem changing the arm out. Thanks again for your support and getting in touch 👍
@@greenautoservices the near side had been done at 33k miles by formula 1. This was the offside at 45k miles. Looked knackered! Clearly a weakness!! Thanks again
@@davidwardle1514 makes sense. The N/S is always first to go not long followed by the O/S. I’ve also replaced both arms on my Fiesta for the same reason. Super common fault across most Fiestas for sure. Keep an eye on the rear axle bushes, they’ll be next to go for sure 🤦♂️
Thank god someone knows how to make a useable how to video.
Thank you man this is absolutely great
Excellent, in depth presentation. Made my life a lot easier. Thank you.
Thank you for your explanation on the ball joint!!! So so much
Great video. Well explained, I just done my left side control arm on my fiesta and realised a was doing all wrong. i tightened inner bushes first and now I have clunking noise. Going to take off tomorrow and do it the way you do it and see if that noise goes away.
Hi, apologies for the late response. So how did taking the arm off go again? Did you manage to resolve the knocking issue? If that doesn't resolve the issue, check your anti-roll bar drop link ball joints and roll bar bushes. They are also a super common issue with Fiestas and undoubtedly they will need to be replaced at some point in its lifetime. Thanks for getting I touch. All the best
Thanks again. Had to do the other control arm this MOT. So quick and easy following your video.
Hi !
great video, how deep should one press in the balljoint, untill it stops or before it can't go in no further?
Great video, is it worth while changing the bushes to performance ones? I know the ball joint is pressed in so not a serviceably item.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. It’s a personal preference to have poly bushes fitted. Whilst the arm is out of the car then yes it’s the best time to do it. There are a lot of people who would replace the bushes with performance ones and of course would last longer than factory ones. Whether it would make a noticeable difference or not, not sure. Good luck though, sure you’ll nail it 👍🏼
Good fiesta video. Thank you.
Grear Video.
Mine has just failed the MOT for the same fault. Frustratingly tho ive only had the same one (near front lower) replace not 12 months ago. Where i live its pothole city, could this be the reason? I have done a few this year sadly.
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch. Glad you enjoyed the video. Don't be disheartened, pot holes are everywhere in the UK regardless of how many times the local council fills them in. Sadly, the pot holes will undoubtedly be the cause of the worn ball joints. They are super common on the Fiestas too. And if it's not the ball joints, it's the tyres. Keep trying to avoid them. Thanks again for getting in touch and for your on-going support. ATB :)
Thank you, feel reassured now that I've not been ripped off 🙌
Thanks dear well explained.... Clearly understand... Spot on 🥰
By Sreeji liked and subscribed ❤
I have a question for you. I have a 2012 Fiesta and from just about day one when i turn the steering wheel i hear and feel a knock coming from it. What is that? Great video love what you show makes working on my clown car even easier thank you.
Hi David, likewise, my Fiesta pretty much had a knock from the steering wheel / column. A known fault that can easily be rectified. The steering column has a section that allows the shaft to slide up and down as the wheel is turned. It’s higher up closer to the steering wheel and access to it is from the foot well up behind the dash. It is NOT the universal joint towards the bottom. Best thing to do, take out the pinch bolt that secures the column to the steering rack (just before it goes through the floor) then you can literally just slide the shaft down and out. Give it a clean and then treat it with grease. Just something to allow it to slide smoothly without any resistance. Then just reinstall in reverse order. Just remember to mark the column position to the steering wheel before taking it out so you know where it goes back afterward. There is a master spline so it can be located only in one way but always good to be safe. Give it a go and let me know if that resolves it.
@@greenautoservices Thanks for the info. I will try that and let you know what happens.
My car just failed on ball joint but the tester said he can tell its a new part, so its either been fitted incorrectly or its a faulty part. Im thinking given that its a common issue the mechanic could prob do it with his eyes closed. How likely is it that it was fitted incorrectly?
The only easy thing you can do wrong when fitting them is damage the rubber boot that protects the ball joint. If fitting and it gets damaged then it will let moisture in straight away and start to corrode the ball joint quickly. Otherwise, it's idiot proof really. Also, brands play a roll and I've seen a cheap brands fail / wear very quickly just purely due to manufacturer defects. Sometime is good to pay a little extra more for a decent brand too, such as Delphi. Hope that helps and apologies for the delayed response.
Is this the same as a ‘suspension arm ball joint’……My cars just failed the mot and I wanna have a go at the repair myself. Thanks
Hi Matt, thanks for getting in touch. Yes, the suspension arm ball joint is what a new arm will come with that locates in the bottom of the hub. This video will guide you for replacing the ball joint and lower arm as one whole piece. Very common to fail an MOT as they are super common faults. Good luck and be safe when working under the car and please use axle stands! All the best and thanks for your on going support
Super helpful thanks. Just going to have to do this soon and looks a doddle if the bolts come out! Can you re-use the bolts and do you grease the bolts/thread when putting them back in? Cheers.
Do you have the torque settings for each of the three bolts? Or did I miss this bit in the video? Thanks
Hello, I would like to know if you know the tightening torques of these three screws?
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. Yes, so for the lower suspension arm bolts/nuts are as follows: ball joint/hub nut = 52Nm; front lower arm bolt = 65Nm + 180 degrees; rear lower arm bolt/nut = 103Nm + 180 degrees. Many thanks for your support and hope this information helps
@@greenautoservices Thank you very much.
I’m no expert just a home mechanic but my fiesta Haynes manual says it’s the other way around.
Rear bolt 65nm +180deg
Front bolt 103nm+ 180deg.
@@driver7009 I've already had the replacement. I tightened it according to previous recommendations and nothing has fallen off so far.
great video well detailed and explaned. can i ask would a focus rs mk3 2017 be similar to do/change etc it does look like that, thanks
Hi, so in principle the repair is the same yes, which is always good news. It's a little bit more fiddly though as a new control arm comes with a rear arm bush in it's own housing and it's tricky to get the bush housing bolts into position before putting the bolts through. You may need a good size pry bar to help ease it into place. Word of warning, it can be easy to cross thread the bolts when put them back into the subframe. Make sure you get the threads started by hand first (if will be a little difficult) then you'll avoid a serious problem. Take your time and I'm sure you'll be fine. Thanks for getting in touch and apologies for the late response.
I am trying to remove the bolt at the bottom of the clamp ,it has rusted in 15 years and will not turn drift or smash out, heat made no difference, it was only going to be a few minute job. Drill the hard bolt with a tungsten drill is next. 😢
I have the same noise on uneven ground but it never fails the mot
how much do you think this repair would cost, the suspension repair? just after a ball park figure
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. So it's approx 1 hour labour (£70-£80 +vat) then the price of the whole arm, which will be around £30-£60 depending on brand, maybe a bit more. So total ball park, shouldnt' be anymore than £200 all in and that's rounding up. Hope that helps.
I was quoted "in the ballpark of £200, maybe a bit less" by my local garage.
The part cost me £61 inc vat from Eurocarparts, so a saving of around £140 for the sake of 60-90 mins effort.
Well explain Thank U
Glad you thought so, thanks for getting in touch 👍
Nop quis. Why not just balljoit. And do whole ARM?😅
Tomarrow i will try to but balljoit on. 🧐🇫🇮🇪🇺🍒😁
Top
Where are you based mate
Walters Ash in Buckinghamshire 👍
Awesome I'm based in Uxbridge are you open on Saturday I have an ford fiesta ST3 and my wheel is start shaking above 70,and I have a knocking noise when I hit a hole or a bump
@@nikyclau3966 sorry for the late reply. I’m actually not taking on any more work as the company is in preparation for relocation (abroad). I’d love to help but I am already fully booked up until the move. There will still be on going content for the future and I’m sure more specifically on Ford Fiestas so please keep an eye out. I appreciate you reaching out though and your on going support 🤘
Mk 6.
Correct :)
So much of your life is dependent on three little bolts...