You get the knack for control arms not before long, I find a hammer and a strong punch are the best tools for the job, and the punch can be used to bring the bushes in line instead of bending a screwdriver
Great video, thank you! This helped me massively when doing both mine on my 2013 Fiesta. Both pinch bolts that hold the bottom of the wheel hub together was a real pain to remove. There's no thread in the middle of the bolt but they had rusted inside and expanded, so it was stuck fast. I rounded off the O/S bolt so had to use an extractor socket in the end. Both sides needed a hammer and chisel to separate the stub from the wheel hub too. When fitting the new arms, I found that lifting the wheel hub up using a trolley jack (I don't have a vehicle lift!) gave you more space to get the arms in, and then you can line up the stub with the wheel hub and drop it into place. Thanks again!
Why do i see some of these videos with a different control arm for the same car, just the rear bush is different, its in an aluminium bracket instead of built into the control arm itself Great video will help fix my mother's MOT failure
The front bush bolt should only be finger tight to start. The hub should then be lifted until the car starts to lift off the ramp/jack stand. The bolt can then be fully tightened. This ensures that the bushing is secured in a natural ride-height position. If it's tightened when hanging down like this, there will be undue strain on the bushing when in the normal position, resulting in premature wear. Torque specs for the two bolts are 63nm + 180°. Torque spec for pinch bolt nut is 52nm
I did one of these yesterday. Absolute nightmare. No ramp only a jack, fork and hammer. Took hours and several knuckles. Thanks.
You get the knack for control arms not before long, I find a hammer and a strong punch are the best tools for the job, and the punch can be used to bring the bushes in line instead of bending a screwdriver
Great video, thank you! This helped me massively when doing both mine on my 2013 Fiesta. Both pinch bolts that hold the bottom of the wheel hub together was a real pain to remove. There's no thread in the middle of the bolt but they had rusted inside and expanded, so it was stuck fast. I rounded off the O/S bolt so had to use an extractor socket in the end. Both sides needed a hammer and chisel to separate the stub from the wheel hub too. When fitting the new arms, I found that lifting the wheel hub up using a trolley jack (I don't have a vehicle lift!) gave you more space to get the arms in, and then you can line up the stub with the wheel hub and drop it into place. Thanks again!
Why do i see some of these videos with a different control arm for the same car, just the rear bush is different, its in an aluminium bracket instead of built into the control arm itself
Great video will help fix my mother's MOT failure
Thanks for a clear description of what you are doing.
The front bush bolt should only be finger tight to start. The hub should then be lifted until the car starts to lift off the ramp/jack stand. The bolt can then be fully tightened. This ensures that the bushing is secured in a natural ride-height position. If it's tightened when hanging down like this, there will be undue strain on the bushing when in the normal position, resulting in premature wear. Torque specs for the two bolts are 63nm + 180°. Torque spec for pinch bolt nut is 52nm
Thank you great video
I´ve heard that linkage must lift up to position what it is normal drive before you tighten bolts. Am I wrong?
Hello, thanks for a good video, did you reuse the old bolts or do you need to fit new ones please ? Thanks, Damian.
@@DJCO13 as long as they aren't corroded and weak, you can re use the original bolts
Torque setting?
Wooden hammer?