24 valve Cummins throttle position sensor replacement. TPS or APPS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2017
- / vandamconstruction
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• 24 Valve Cummins fixes
24 valve Cummins throttle position sensor replacement. TPS or APPS
This is a fairly simple fix, it involves 10-10 mm bolts and 2 T20 bolts.
www.carparts.com/details/Dodge...
Save your money, don't spend $200+ from auto parts stores, order this one online. It took about a week for shipping. Not bad for standard shipping.
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Awesome video my friend ... we have a 2002 Motorhome with the same engine and the same exact issues... I have been trying to convince my husband to replace the TPS since the beginning of last summer and thanks to your video that I showed him he will finally give this a try! Yay. Lol I will let you know if it works! The shops were telling him it was the fuel injector pump...a $3000.00 part and $2,000.00 labour job but if this works he owes me big time! We have already changed a$400.00 lift pump on it for nothing. We pull a big heavy trailer for racing and that dead pedal on a big 36 ft bus plus a 24 ft trailer going down a 6 lane Hwy is such a bad feeling! Keeping my fingers crossed!
Good luck! Hopefully it's just the sensor
AT THE END OF THE INSTALLATION, you have to reset the Apps!
By turning off the key after the installation, then turn the to on a press the throttle all the way down slowly and let go slowly, then turn off the ignition and it’s set!!
By doing this you are calibrating the apps sensor
Thank You
No problem
@@juanvaldez1441 That's not calibrating APPS sensor. You need to use a mulitmeter to set the voltage on the new TPS. Then unhook the battery, wait 30 minutes, reconnect the batteries, turn the switch on, do not start, then slowly push the gas pedal and slowly bring it back up. That calibrates the APPS sensor after you have correctly set the voltage on the new APPS.
Good to know, thanks!
Thanks dude...appreciate the video...like you said hope that's it! Got the same problem just showed up
I just replaced mine also on my 2001 Cummins, mine is also a 6 speed manual which is a slightly different TPS. Make sure to reset the ECM by removing battery negatives for 15 minutes, power up to key on, press/depress acceleration pedal all the way down and should be ready to roll. Mine would only act up around 50-60 mph and would surge for one second and return to normal, it at times would do this sometimes up too 80 times in 150+ mile trips towing our fifth wheel. I installed the preset tps which does cost more but is ready to roll out of the box. I would also recommend the airdog fuel ⛽️ system to anyone looking for better fuel movement. It now runs consistent 14 psi under load, versus the 3-5 psi i was getting before. This system replaces the standpipe in the tank, adds additional fuel/water filter and mounts directly to the injection pump. Also quiet.
Where did you get your preset from? Trying to avoid taking that extra step.
@@Keepin-it-wheel101
Napa has them, check probably eBay also. Also try a negative reset on the computer before u do anything, mine still acts up from time to time and I reset and good to roll.
Thanks mine is going out at 481000
So you do that after installing the sensor right?
@juanr5807 yes
Very Helpful.
Thanks for sharing the video!
Thanks. It's not a perfect install but hopefully it helped anyways. Thanks for watching
My truck do the same thing, its the same truck as yours,am gonna do the same like you, thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for watching, hope it works out.
the last one l put on lasted about 5 years but both times when it went out it only has idle and wide open throttle and nothing in between. As soon as I touch the peddle it tries to rev wide open and the rpms head to the red. It seems to have lots more power than normal. Tonight was my third night failing to replace it. Bought a brand new volt meter to program/set the voltage on the new one but can't get the new meter to work. I am hard headed so it took three tries/nights to admit the new meter isn't working. The last time l bought the complete throttle unit and paid over $250.00 but this time l only bought the sensor on eBay for $14.00
Needed to check the voltage first
I got mine off ebay for $59. Free shipping...
Thanks for the video! Hoping this fixes the problem with mine it's got a surging issue and it's not fuel related
Good luck
I have similar issue with my 1999 when setting the cruise. I struggle for 5 minutes getting the speed set to where i want it. If I hit cruise accelerate button at times it will floor the accelerator. When I want to slow down, I may have to hit the button 6 or 7 times before it begins to slow. It is a real pain.
did you find your problem with the surging problem mine is doing that!
@@matthewantley2716 yeah. It was related to the cruise control buffer. To fix mine i took it out on the road, with my foot on the accel, i set the cruise and then cancelled. I repeated it 12 to 15 times. This clears the buffer. Problem originates by set cruise with foot off of the accel. It thinks the accel cable is stretched and does some good adjustments.
@@conservativejones3537 My cruise works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't
you have to adjust the voltage when you put it on, the apps will rotate a bit before you tighten t20, adjust to about .53. volts, then after back togetherr. unhook both batteries for a half hour, then hook batteries, turn key to on. depress accelerator pedal once to the floor and back up agains. turn off key.. then apps is calibrated to computer.
I watched another longer video on the subject. They calibrated the TPS with the torx screws. They showed how the voltage would vary from calibration adjustment.....I changed mine anyway. My idle speed is now even higher! I wanted lower idles speed. ....Also, it didn't seem to help any other issues a bit! I am disappointed. Should I go back and change the position of the resistor with the torx screws to find a lower rpm?
It's probably worth a shot. I lucked out, mine was just what it should be.
Nice video bro ! it does come pre adjusted ! or you had to adjust the voltage !? Cuz that’s what i know ! Voltage have to be set between ! 0.470 to 0.535 to be working properly ! That’s what I did on my 5.9 & it works perfect
It must've been pre adjusted because I didn't do anything with that. I should've though. It threw a code, but always worked fine.
Just saw your video and I was wondering how the truck was doing since you replaced the TPS. I also clicked on the link in the description from Carparts and they have a sensor for 20.00?? is that correct? I think you said yours was about 80.00????
The truck is doing fine still and that link appears to be the same as what's on my truck. The price must have gone down.
Nice low miles..but mine is doing the very same thing
My dumb ass forgot to plug in the wiring for the sensor and I was sitting in my truck for like 30 minutes pissed off trying to figure out why the throttle didn’t work
How did you reset the check engine light
To be honest, I never did, but the parts store can usually help out with that. That's how I've done it with other things in the past.
I do believe you do have to calibrate it, it’s a simple process
Yes, otherwise the rpm might be off. There's also a way to remove the check engine light that I didn't go over.
Did you put the link where you got the part. Or did I miss it in the comments
I had a link in the description but I'm not sure if it's still good.
Look for the "apps" sensor. That should be easier to find than throttle position sensor.
I am curious too, did you have to set the voltage and do a calibration?
Nope, I just plugged it in and everything worked fine and has for months. I did have to get my check engine light reset though.
Alright i have an issue i got a 2003 dodge 2500 5.9 24 valve trying to figure out an issue when i start it it likes to drop rpms to about 600 then jump to about 1k until i drive it and when its idling it has a miss sound but its not constant maybe every 30 seconds when i drive it and im at a redlight and it turns green i give it throttle and it doesnt move for about 3 seconds then it takes off leaving a cloud of coal the truck is stock no tuner any feedback will help
Unfortunately I'd recommend looking into the fuel pump. There's a basic pump off the tank that went out for me. I think it was about $3-400 for that pump plus install. It's my understanding that the injection pump can be affected by the other pump. I'd check the injection pump last though because it's about $1600 just for the pump. Good luck! Hopefully it's only the cheaper pump.
I kinda got ripped off on the truck it didnt have a check engine light and ran fine
Yeah, I got a good deal on mine but it's been a little bit of a lemon over the last 40,000 miles. Fuel lines are constantly cracking and dripping. Oh well, what can ya do about it
It could be the fuel pressure regulator, it puddles of diesel and when you take off it burns to much diesel and throws black smoke, or an injector is leaking
My light never went away after changing the tps. Did yours?
No, I had to get the codes cleared before it left.
Higher idle rpm is exactly what I would like to get rid of! So, maybe my TPS is my problem also!
I’m dealing with exact same thing right now on my 06 5.9. Seems to idle higher put in gear she’s rearing to go. Then this morning I start up seems calmed down. Havnt had time to really dig into it yet let me know if you come across anything
Did you get a check engine light with that problem?
Not until after I disconnected the sensor and installed the new one.
Same thing just happened to me .. Oriely is nuts like 300 bucks!!!
Yeah, it's totally not worth that.
@@VanDamArtisan Timbo APPS FTW. 169.00 and it's better.
I have a 01, 3500 the rpm drop to cero is the same sensor I has to change?
Possibly.
I had a problem with my truck always hesitating when accelerating. My check engine light came on a couple days ago, we put the scanner on it and said it was the tps, I put a new one on and it doesn’t hesitate anymore but when I press on the pedal I have to push it down more than I used to before it actually starts to go. When I let off and the rpm’s drop, right around 1000 rpm’s it wants to pop or jump, I’m not really sure how to explain it. But it’s only when the rpm’s are drop.
That's weird. It's almost like the tps is calibrated a little off. These trucks are supposed to idle around 850. Maybe it's just a bad sensor?
It’s idling where it’s supposed to but it pops at 1000 rpm’s when I let off the throttle, maybe it is a bad sensor. The engine light is still on as well.
Yeah. It sounds like the tps and ecu are sort of battling each other or something.
The sensor I got it’s identical to the original one, so maybe I need to get the one you got?
@@shanebehrman9664 I actually wouldn't recommend that any longer. It lasted a little over a year and then went out again. Maybe see if you can get a replacement on the OEM version.
still running well? that is so cheap compared to mopar part. my truck is jumping in and out of overdive like a bucking bull. stock 02 cummins
Yeah, absolutely no related problems since.
thank you man!! ordering it now, do you have a noise filter? like this? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LFPY5M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=panorama08-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B003LFPY5M&linkId=5369d976e76463902e9824733d48a64d
No, not on my truck.
VanDam Construction hey how long did it take for your check engine light to go off? I’m throwing p0122 & p1693 just finished installed the part from your link
Honestly, it never went off by itself but the part store can reset it.
Where is that sensor? I can only find one for $185
Just Google "apps sensor 24 valve Cummins"
Whats that piece of plastic called cause mine broke and i wanna put another on it
Throttle body cover? I'm not sure
Ok need some extra help I replaced the sensor easy enough trucked fired up. When I put it in drive it had no power wouldn't move. Rpms would come up nothing
I wonder if it's the linkage from the shifter to the transmission
Did it work ? An also did you have to flash ur computer?
It worked but I did need to get my check engine light shut off.
VanDam Construction awesome thanks for the quick response
Is the fix holding still?
Yes, it's still working. I had a fuel filter issue later that I thought was the sensor, but after replacing it again I found no change so I put the other one back on and it's still going strong.
Where did you get the part?
Amazon. Search for apps and tps sensor.
Should I unhook the battery posts?
Yes
I got it from a guy and he told me it wen bad because he jump started it is the true? Because you wouldn’t think jump starting it would mess it up
I've jumped mine since and it didn't hurt anything
Thanks for the info I put a new kne t and works great
Did your old one sometimes have less power than other times? Because I will start mine cold and it’ll run fine then the second start it’ll idle higher and be gutless
do you know the part number of the tps ?
I don't. Sorry
What year truck?
Mine is a 2001 second generation with a 24 valve in it.
What year model and part number is this?
This is for a 2001 24 valve. I can't find the part number though. Just search for tpps or apps
Did your check engine light turn off?
Not until I had it reset
Does this work on the 12v
It should. It might be a slightly different part but the install should be very similar.
I get a code for low voltage to the TPPS and a dead pedal. I reset code and it goes away and is fine for awhile then it happens again. What could this be????? I have a 1998.5 24V
Maybe the sensor has a slow leak? Or maybe a vacuum line somewhere.
@@VanDamArtisan hmmmmm.... I was thinking dirty electrical. Is it controlled by vacuum line??
I'd check both. The cruise control part is for sure. I found that out the hard way. There's a couple 1/4" lines on the firewall on the driver's side above the fuel lines area
@@VanDamArtisan I know that I already had to zip tie that line for the cruise
Did you ever find the issue? Im currently having the same issue. Cel will come and go and dead pedal. Replaced sensor and it still didn’t help.
Mine is doing the same thing, but it is not Bring up a code! So how do you know?
The throttle won't respond. When you're driving it feels like you lost all engine power, except the engine is still at idle. After a couple minutes everything works like normal until the next time it randomly happens.
@@VanDamArtisan I just want to make sure that's what it is because other people is telling me that it's not! Mine will drive just fine then maybe after I let it sit in the driveway with it running it starts acting up or when I turn it off and turn it back on then it starts acting up again!
You could have something else going on. Try to diagnose the fuel pumps/filter and air filter. Check for intercooler leaks too. Hopefully it's not the vp44 injection pump because they are expensive and problematic.
@@VanDamArtisan I was just wondering if there was a code for it because nothing is coming up on the computer!!
Mine didn't throw a code until I uninstalled the part, unfortunately. I've had a fuel pump go out as well and that didn't throw a code for me either. My thought was to replace the sensor first because it was the cheapest and luckily that worked.
Hey buddy I have a issue like yours also. I need help but I’m having code p1689 which is no communication btwn ecu and vp44 but I just ordered a new apps just for the heck of it
Hopefully it's not the ecu. I'd check all the wires on the vp44, pull them apart, clean them, put them back on and cross my fingers.
@@VanDamArtisan that’s the wire harness that plugs into the vp44 that you have to pull that long slide down for it to pull out right? I seen a video a few days back where someone was like checking voltage or continuity with that but I have no clue what the readings are supposed to be so I guess I could try that also. I don’t think the pump is bad bcus it runs and cranks up no issue just not going over 5 mph or 1200 rpm
Yeah, sounds ecu related. Try the apps and see if that does anything. I'm not sure if there are other sensors to check, other than the stuff in the vp44. It could be a sensor or solenoid from that.
@@VanDamArtisan you mean inside the vp44 computer?
And yea I just ordered a new app for like 25 bucks hopefully it’s good I know how to set it with voltage I’m praying that’s the issue but then it’s still that code with the vp44 to ecm communication
Did that check engine light ever go away?
+Robert Marquez the check engine light never went away automatically but I just had it reset the next time I changed my oil and it's been running with no issues since I changed the TPS.
VanDam Construction oh ok thank you for the video
+Robert Marquez thanks for watching
@@VanDamArtisan I reset mine 2 floor the pedal 2 time and then start the engin and it went away
We’re did you get it for 84.00?
Amazon. It was a couple years ago though and it went out after about a year, so definitely don't go with the bottom dollar one.
Thanks fucking nice men
You did not show all the steps! Anyone can tighten screws down without having a video. Where did the throttle cable disappear to when working on it? I don't even know how to take the cover off.
..... Maybe send her to a mechanic ...
Was the code a 1693?
I'm not sure what number it was. I took it in to O'Reilly's and they scanned it. I chose to fix the apps because it was the cheapest option by over $300. I'm glad it worked.
@@VanDamArtisan did your engine light go off after you drove it? I think this is a very common issue. Sometimes if you spray wd40 on your pieces that bolt up to the apps sensor I have gotten it un stuck And it seems like it fixes it temporarily.. not sure how but I actually learned it from a guy online And tried it and it worked for 6 months! Just all the parts under the dust cover.
I never tried the wd40 trick. My light never went off by itself, I had to get it reset.
@@VanDamArtisan I actually have done it 3 times now.. I need to just replace it but it is hard to buckle down and fit it when a few squirts had been keeping her going.. my isn't as severe as yours was, I just lose like half throttle and it comes rite back .
Is the fix holding still?
My mechanic claims this is the problem with the torque converter locking and unlocking randomly.
I never considered that as an option. Good idea
@VanDamArtisan well he claims that's the root cause, you can bandaid fix it with the aluminum foil, rerouting the wire etc, but that's just disguising the issue
I prefer to fix it for good
So, did you replace it? Did it fix the convertor locking in and out because that's what mine is doing.
@jasonparrick8076 yeah, it fixed it good
why did you not show where you hade to set the voltage??????????????????
steve davis the voltage didn't need to be set. The truck's ECU takes over and regulates everything without adjustment.
If you set the sensor at the same spot as the other one you don’t need to show the voltage, but you do have to reset the apps by pressing the pedal down and let go slowly, that’s why you have a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON
Check engine light is because you did not calibrate sensor
Yup
You skipped too many steps for me. I am a novice. Good video, though!
Sorry about that. Do you have any specific questions?