Recently found out mine was bad by using my tuner to shut off the wastegate. Just getting on the freeway I was seeing 1300+ degrees. boost would kind of jump around and settle at 22-24 at 3/4 throttle. Initially thought I had bad injectors because of the truck starting hard but that Issue turned out to be a bad battery.
Mine is shifting weird and I just all of a sudden had no power and I thought It was the transmission and took it to a shop and the reason it won’t shift good is due to it not having enough boost and power to shift it so I order the part and hopefully it works and it doesn’t black smoke at all just very low on power
I just bought a Chineseium waste gate solenoid for $22 on Ebay for my '06 Ram 3500. I figure at that price, if it fails in 6 months or year or whatever, I'll just by another one.
$22?!? I got robbed! haha Here's hoping it holds up! If I weren't on a trip so far away from home, I probably would have tried a cheaper option as well. The good news is my new one is still holding up! Hopefully yours does the same!
I'm guessing due to the demand. It's weird, some parts are massed produced and available by many manufacturers at reduced prices, while others are only made by a couple and the prices are sky high! You never know which one you'll have to get. Injectors are one of the pricey parts for sure! Thanks for watching!
How did you program your smarty touch to show boost. I bought one yesterday and the instructions are terrible. I looked at their online manual and it's not much better.
That's one way around it.... but I worry about overboost, especially while towing. One wrong move and it can go boom! $900 is ridiculous, but I was on the road and had to have it that day. They are waaay cheaper online!
Hey, there! We both have 5.9L 24v Cummins, but different versions. For 2000, you have the 2nd generation, but this 2006 has the 3rd generation. In 2004.5, Cummins switched to the Holset HE351CW turbo which has the electronically controlled wastegate. Prior to that was the HE341CW which does not have the solenoid. Finally, half way through 2007, the 6.7 Cummins was introduced and everything changed. I'm glad you found the video enjoyable. Thanks for watching and for your comment!
Definitely an alternative, but I keep this one all stock now. Pushed it a little too far once upon a time and blew it up. For the miles I'm towing heavy, I don't want to risk any major failures! Thanks for watching!
I had to run right out and double check, because it did look like an o-ring in the video! To my relief I found that it is inserted all the way. That isn't an o-ring. Just a channel on the tube. Man, it did look like it wasn't in all the way in the video! Good catch and thanks for telling me!
It's possible. If you can, borrow a gauge that can read the manifold pressure. It should build up 30psi at wide open throttle. With this part being faulty, it was maxing out at about 20psi.
That is just a pole barn. There's no insulation, no heat, and minimal lighting. I would LOVE to insulate it and get it heated some day and turn it into an actual workshop, but for now it's just a storage barn. I do all my real work in the garage. The barn does a great job at keeping the toys and vehicles out of the sun and the snow though!
Good to know! I might venture out if this turbo ever fails, but I've blown this engine before so I'm a little timid.... Been trying to keep things stock since the bang heard around the world! (aka, piston 4 turning in its resignation) haha
Excellent diagnosis. Why did you Have To Have It? When my Turbo on my 2005 2500 5.9 starting sticking open apparently from some internal issue while on a trip, I had to disable it and left it Closed since then over 150000 miles ago. I have done the research and don't see any serious issues and I have had none driving and towing. Isn't Boost the thing to watch? If you don't produce more boost than will harm the engine? Am I missing something here? Is there a really a problem with leaving it closed permanently if your boost never exceeds limits? I do get the noise at times of the boost having to go backwards through the blades. Does that cause any harm? Looking forward to your reply.
Hi, there. I've heard of people wiring them closed and not having any issues, but I have heard of others blowing their intake boots or even head gaskets from too much boost. I'm not sure what their circumstances were to cause these types of failures, but if it's possible, I certainly didn't want it to happen on mine. I'm still a little timid about things like this because I've burned a hole in piston 4 before. Additionally, this truck has a G56 manual transmission, so while towing and I have to downshift while under full load going up hill, there is a tremendous amount of pressure that has to be relieved when I let off the gas and push the clutch sharply. On the flip side, without it, the engine wasn't building the boost that it needed for full power, and I was towing my very heavy 5th wheel so I need that extra power. That's why I felt that I had to have it. Lastly... I'm told that the factory boost gauge only reads to about 33ish, so if it is spiking the boost, I would never know on the gauges. I could be wrong, but again, I didn't to risk it. In summary, I'm too scared to try it! Glad to hear yours has been working great for that long! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
@@3DayWeekend I do agree that if you add lots of extra power makers that you could over boost and kill something. I have the Edge Juice early model with approx 100+ hp increase and 330ftlbs torque, AFE air cleaner & BD Intake Elbow for better low end torque. I meant to not ever go over the 45lbs of boost that the stock 5.9 can handle. The Edge monitor shows boost and I have been able to get real close to 45lbs. I don't want to blow my head gaskets. What I don't know for sure is when you let off the pedal hard at high power, can that overboost or cause other issues? I don't think so. I think people who damage their engine with the waste gate closed permanently is because they have built up to levels that can harm the engine. I tried to keep in within safe limits. I have the FASS Fuel Systems Fuel Lift Pump w/filters to protect my injectors etc. Now have 235000 miles, original Injectors etc. Had to upgrade the Torque Converter and large reinforced trans pan to stop trans twist. I love My 2005!
Did you wire your wastegate closed to see if that was the issue? If that's not it and you have no leaks, that pretty much leaves you at either a bad sensor or a bad turbo....
I'd love to get back into modding it, but..... I have blown up this engine in the past, and that was a hard lesson learned. This truck's primary purpose in life is recreation with the family - towing the 5th wheel camper or the wedge trailer with the toys on it to destinations around the US. When it blew up, we were on our way to a camping trip, and obviously that cancelled our entire trip, along with the 2 trips following it while I rebuilt the engine. Reliability is now my number one priority (for my family's sake), and I have returned everything in/on the engine to stock. I keep my eyes open for a truck to "play" with, but not this one. I may not be the fastest out there, but it has been very reliable! How's that for a boring answer. I'm disappointed in myself for having to write that! haha
Hey man I just had this same issue, but mine had a code P0243 immediately. I have the bullydog GT Tuner and after changing the solenoid the code keeps coming back even after clearing. Thoughts?
Perhaps wiring? Assuming it is throwing the same code with two different solenoid and it's coming on immediately, I would suspect a hard short or a completely open condition in the wiring going to the solenoid. Those wires get pretty hot right there so I'd remove the outer jacket and trace them back, looking for any melts, rubs, or signs of corrosion. Looks like the pink wire with a yellow stripe is 12v positive and splices into the power wire going to your fan clutch, which is coming from the TIPM fuse 6 (40 amp). The dark blue wire should be a negative trigger going to your Engine Control Module, pin 1 connector 1. Hopefully you can find something obvious. Tracing wiring shorts/opens can be a nightmare!
So I have an edge cts3 tuner on it and it reads 6 psi at idle which I know is not good but when driving it would also only get up to maybe the 20s do you think this could be the same problem? Did a boost leak test didnt find anything so I’m honestly lost on what I should do now
I'm not sure why you would have 6psi at idle unless the sensor is messed up, but mine would only build up to around 20psi under full load because of this faulty part. A quick test would be to manually rig up something to hold your wastegate closed, then drive it (I used wire). If you see 30psi again, that's your problem! Just don't let off the throttle abruptly while your wastegate is wired closed, or things can go boom!
That's called a "Swing Case". They make 2 versions - one for the driver side and one for the passenger side. You can install both if you wanted. Here's the link: www.amazon.com/UnderCover-SwingCase-SC300P-2002-2018-1500-3500/dp/B001B7TT3K
Mines is 1 owner 320k miles. Never had a engine issue. Seeing bad fuel mileage and feels like I lost just a tad bit power. This is probably my issue. Crossing fingers
Right? At that price I would probably roll the dice on the Amazon one if it were to happen again, but they were the only ones that could get it to me in time! My wallet is still sore from that trip! haha
I used a pipe wrench to unscrew it. We were out of town camping so I just went to the local Walmart and picked up a cheap one. It was enough to take it out. Thanks for watching!
I'm torn on that. I was going to once upon a time, but ended up passing. There's a video out there where they ran a truck on a dyno then removed the ring and ran it again and there was no difference. So... it would just make it louder. My truck is plenty loud enough and I pretty much just use it to haul the camper so I left it in. Sometimes I still think about taking it out though!
Did you wire your wastegate closed to see if that was the issue? If that's not it and you have no leaks, that pretty much leaves you at either a bad sensor or a bad turbo....
Oh, I know. When you're hundreds of miles from home and leaving the next morning, you gotta take what you can get! I don't know if I trust those super cheap ones with all of the long hauling that I do, but I would have felt good with one in the $100 range for sure! Oh well. I'm still limping from it, but the truck is running great!
Was yours out constantly or was the boost going in and out. Mine ranges from about 10 psi to 20 right now. Never had this issue before so not sure where to start
Mine appeared to operate normally with the engine load, but it never went above 20ish. If I held it at wide open throttle (towing up a hill), it would sit pretty steady right at 20.
He’s fkn found it. My bt50 drives normal for 25mins on the freeway then goes into limp mode. I’m gonna try the pressure test this weekend. I e checked every hose it’s doing my head in
Crankshaft position sensor and or camshaft position sensor need to be replaced! I’d replace both honestly since you’ll be in the same area on the engine! Good luck !
Have you been able to do that successfully in the past? Seems like the ECU would recognize that as a fault. Also, without the solenoid, it won't build up all the boost. You'd have to wire the wastegate closed as well, and that seems risky! If you've been able to do it, let us know the details!
@@3DayWeekend You buy a waste gate control set at 40psi plug the hole where the factory junk was screwed in with a plug you can buy. Then plug in the resistor pre made or use your own I can’t remember off the top of my head how many ohms but I bought mine pre-made.
Thank you for sharing the issue and the culprit of it, now we know in case we encounter the same problem.
You bet! It was a head scratcher for sure. Happy to report that she is still running strong though. Thanks for watching!
On the wires had fallen off of my solenoid. I just replaced it instead of soldering it.. easy, TY.
Good deal! You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
Have an 06 Gen 3. Never had any gauges, getting ready to instal banks idash so I can monitor things.
Great idea. Never though about using one of those for that.
Get the smarty touch!!! It’s an incredible piece of technology for these 5.9 & 6.7’s!
Look at that big shop.!!!
We love that barn. Took us a while to get it built, but it turned out great! Thanks for watching!
Recently found out mine was bad by using my tuner to shut off the wastegate. Just getting on the freeway I was seeing 1300+ degrees. boost would kind of jump around and settle at 22-24 at 3/4 throttle. Initially thought I had bad injectors because of the truck starting hard but that Issue turned out to be a bad battery.
Oh, I didn't know the tuner could disable the wastegate. Good to know! Glad you found your issues! Thanks for wratching.
thank you for sharing gained knowledge.
My pleasure! Thank you for watching!
Great looking truck!! Glad you found the issue....but ouch you could have almost bought another turbo....tough spot.
Thanks! She's my baby. Yes, I was glad to find it as well and it saved my trip, but I'm still a little sore from that price gouge! :-)
Mine is shifting weird and I just all of a sudden had no power and I thought It was the transmission and took it to a shop and the reason it won’t shift good is due to it not having enough boost and power to shift it so I order the part and hopefully it works and it doesn’t black smoke at all just very low on power
Interesting. I could see how an engine down on power would confuse the transmission. Hopefully that does the trick for you!
I just bought a Chineseium waste gate solenoid for $22 on Ebay for my '06 Ram 3500. I figure at that price, if it fails in 6 months or year or whatever, I'll just by another one.
$22?!? I got robbed! haha Here's hoping it holds up! If I weren't on a trip so far away from home, I probably would have tried a cheaper option as well. The good news is my new one is still holding up! Hopefully yours does the same!
@@3DayWeekend Yup, agreed
Thanks for the info
You bet. Thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot... why are these parts so expensive on the 5.9L Cummins? The price on the Injectors were shocking to me.
I'm guessing due to the demand. It's weird, some parts are massed produced and available by many manufacturers at reduced prices, while others are only made by a couple and the prices are sky high! You never know which one you'll have to get. Injectors are one of the pricey parts for sure! Thanks for watching!
Thanks bro for sharing
No problem. Hopefully it helps someone out! We were definitely scratching our heads on that one!
How did you program your smarty touch to show boost. I bought one yesterday and the instructions are terrible. I looked at their online manual and it's not much better.
If you touch one of the gauges you can edit what it shows. I think "Boost" was under the "Pressure" category.
@@3DayWeekend
Got it. Thanks
I put a plug on my turbo and a boost fooler on the harness. Not paying $900 for that.
That's one way around it.... but I worry about overboost, especially while towing. One wrong move and it can go boom! $900 is ridiculous, but I was on the road and had to have it that day. They are waaay cheaper online!
Hello , I enjoyed your video but my 2000 5.9 does not have a electronic solonoid like yours does so i am thinking you have a 6.7 engine thank you .
Hey, there! We both have 5.9L 24v Cummins, but different versions. For 2000, you have the 2nd generation, but this 2006 has the 3rd generation. In 2004.5, Cummins switched to the Holset HE351CW turbo which has the electronically controlled wastegate. Prior to that was the HE341CW which does not have the solenoid. Finally, half way through 2007, the 6.7 Cummins was introduced and everything changed. I'm glad you found the video enjoyable. Thanks for watching and for your comment!
You think wrong
I would have taped the hole and plugged it too put a mechanical boost controller to delete the sensor
Definitely an alternative, but I keep this one all stock now. Pushed it a little too far once upon a time and blew it up. For the miles I'm towing heavy, I don't want to risk any major failures! Thanks for watching!
Dude your turbo oil drain is not fully inserted into the block, I can see the second O-ring 4:22
I had to run right out and double check, because it did look like an o-ring in the video! To my relief I found that it is inserted all the way. That isn't an o-ring. Just a channel on the tube. Man, it did look like it wasn't in all the way in the video! Good catch and thanks for telling me!
So recently my truck ran into the same issue. Just seems low on power with no load. I’m starting to wondering if that’s also my issue
It's possible. If you can, borrow a gauge that can read the manifold pressure. It should build up 30psi at wide open throttle. With this part being faulty, it was maxing out at about 20psi.
I wonder what this guy does for a living to have such a huge shop.
That is just a pole barn. There's no insulation, no heat, and minimal lighting. I would LOVE to insulate it and get it heated some day and turn it into an actual workshop, but for now it's just a storage barn. I do all my real work in the garage. The barn does a great job at keeping the toys and vehicles out of the sun and the snow though!
Install a Aurora ATS 3000 TURBO- Great for towing and torque
Good to know! I might venture out if this turbo ever fails, but I've blown this engine before so I'm a little timid.... Been trying to keep things stock since the bang heard around the world! (aka, piston 4 turning in its resignation) haha
Excellent diagnosis. Why did you Have To Have It? When my Turbo on my 2005 2500 5.9 starting sticking open apparently from some internal issue while on a trip, I had to disable it and left it Closed since then over 150000 miles ago. I have done the research and don't see any serious issues and I have had none driving and towing. Isn't Boost the thing to watch? If you don't produce more boost than will harm the engine? Am I missing something here? Is there a really a problem with leaving it closed permanently if your boost never exceeds limits? I do get the noise at times of the boost having to go backwards through the blades. Does that cause any harm? Looking forward to your reply.
Hi, there. I've heard of people wiring them closed and not having any issues, but I have heard of others blowing their intake boots or even head gaskets from too much boost. I'm not sure what their circumstances were to cause these types of failures, but if it's possible, I certainly didn't want it to happen on mine. I'm still a little timid about things like this because I've burned a hole in piston 4 before. Additionally, this truck has a G56 manual transmission, so while towing and I have to downshift while under full load going up hill, there is a tremendous amount of pressure that has to be relieved when I let off the gas and push the clutch sharply. On the flip side, without it, the engine wasn't building the boost that it needed for full power, and I was towing my very heavy 5th wheel so I need that extra power. That's why I felt that I had to have it. Lastly... I'm told that the factory boost gauge only reads to about 33ish, so if it is spiking the boost, I would never know on the gauges. I could be wrong, but again, I didn't to risk it.
In summary, I'm too scared to try it! Glad to hear yours has been working great for that long! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
@@3DayWeekend I do agree that if you add lots of extra power makers that you could over boost and kill something. I have the Edge Juice early model with approx 100+ hp increase and 330ftlbs torque, AFE air cleaner & BD Intake Elbow for better low end torque. I meant to not ever go over the 45lbs of boost that the stock 5.9 can handle. The Edge monitor shows boost and I have been able to get real close to 45lbs. I don't want to blow my head gaskets. What I don't know for sure is when you let off the pedal hard at high power, can that overboost or cause other issues? I don't think so. I think people who damage their engine with the waste gate closed permanently is because they have built up to levels that can harm the engine. I tried to keep in within safe limits. I have the FASS Fuel Systems Fuel Lift Pump w/filters to protect my injectors etc. Now have 235000 miles, original Injectors etc. Had to upgrade the Torque Converter and large reinforced trans pan to stop trans twist. I love My 2005!
How? Iv got a bunch of upgraded tuner straight piped intake and i get 25 lbs max. No books leak I have a tester
Did you wire your wastegate closed to see if that was the issue? If that's not it and you have no leaks, that pretty much leaves you at either a bad sensor or a bad turbo....
Upgrade the turbo with an internal wastegate
I'd love to get back into modding it, but..... I have blown up this engine in the past, and that was a hard lesson learned. This truck's primary purpose in life is recreation with the family - towing the 5th wheel camper or the wedge trailer with the toys on it to destinations around the US. When it blew up, we were on our way to a camping trip, and obviously that cancelled our entire trip, along with the 2 trips following it while I rebuilt the engine. Reliability is now my number one priority (for my family's sake), and I have returned everything in/on the engine to stock. I keep my eyes open for a truck to "play" with, but not this one. I may not be the fastest out there, but it has been very reliable! How's that for a boring answer. I'm disappointed in myself for having to write that! haha
Hey man I just had this same issue, but mine had a code P0243 immediately. I have the bullydog GT Tuner and after changing the solenoid the code keeps coming back even after clearing. Thoughts?
Perhaps wiring? Assuming it is throwing the same code with two different solenoid and it's coming on immediately, I would suspect a hard short or a completely open condition in the wiring going to the solenoid. Those wires get pretty hot right there so I'd remove the outer jacket and trace them back, looking for any melts, rubs, or signs of corrosion. Looks like the pink wire with a yellow stripe is 12v positive and splices into the power wire going to your fan clutch, which is coming from the TIPM fuse 6 (40 amp). The dark blue wire should be a negative trigger going to your Engine Control Module, pin 1 connector 1. Hopefully you can find something obvious. Tracing wiring shorts/opens can be a nightmare!
So I have an edge cts3 tuner on it and it reads 6 psi at idle which I know is not good but when driving it would also only get up to maybe the 20s do you think this could be the same problem? Did a boost leak test didnt find anything so I’m honestly lost on what I should do now
I'm not sure why you would have 6psi at idle unless the sensor is messed up, but mine would only build up to around 20psi under full load because of this faulty part. A quick test would be to manually rig up something to hold your wastegate closed, then drive it (I used wire). If you see 30psi again, that's your problem! Just don't let off the throttle abruptly while your wastegate is wired closed, or things can go boom!
What type of toolbox is that. Can u send a link
That's called a "Swing Case". They make 2 versions - one for the driver side and one for the passenger side. You can install both if you wanted.
Here's the link: www.amazon.com/UnderCover-SwingCase-SC300P-2002-2018-1500-3500/dp/B001B7TT3K
Mines is 1 owner 320k miles. Never had a engine issue. Seeing bad fuel mileage and feels like I lost just a tad bit power. This is probably my issue. Crossing fingers
Hope so too. Was that the problem?
Did you find the issue? Mine feels the same as well.
So far I added Lucas fuel treatment and its better. Maybe just bad fuel
That's freaking ridiculous for that price like my truck's doing the same thing
Right? At that price I would probably roll the dice on the Amazon one if it were to happen again, but they were the only ones that could get it to me in time! My wallet is still sore from that trip! haha
What tool did you use to change that sensor
I used a pipe wrench to unscrew it. We were out of town camping so I just went to the local Walmart and picked up a cheap one. It was enough to take it out. Thanks for watching!
You might as well buy a new turbo which can come with that piece 😅
For that price, no kidding! haha Thanks for watching!
Take out the silencer ring in the turbo
I'm torn on that. I was going to once upon a time, but ended up passing. There's a video out there where they ran a truck on a dyno then removed the ring and ran it again and there was no difference. So... it would just make it louder. My truck is plenty loud enough and I pretty much just use it to haul the camper so I left it in. Sometimes I still think about taking it out though!
I’m still having issues getting more than 25 lbs
Did you wire your wastegate closed to see if that was the issue? If that's not it and you have no leaks, that pretty much leaves you at either a bad sensor or a bad turbo....
Were you getting alot of black smoke with the solenoid being bad also?
No, not that I noticed. The truck could see that it only had 20psi of boost so I believe that allowed it to map the fuel correctly.
Did you fix your truck?I have the same issue a lot black smoke and no power at all everytime a push the gas pedal truck shake really bad No codes.
I have the same issue in my truck 2004 3500 5.9
If someone someone knows the problem let me know please or send me a my Gmail please
I can get that waste gate for 22.95. Dude someone did you wrong on the price
Oh, I know. When you're hundreds of miles from home and leaving the next morning, you gotta take what you can get! I don't know if I trust those super cheap ones with all of the long hauling that I do, but I would have felt good with one in the $100 range for sure! Oh well. I'm still limping from it, but the truck is running great!
Was yours out constantly or was the boost going in and out. Mine ranges from about 10 psi to 20 right now. Never had this issue before so not sure where to start
Mine appeared to operate normally with the engine load, but it never went above 20ish. If I held it at wide open throttle (towing up a hill), it would sit pretty steady right at 20.
Hello what is the name or part number please I have a 2004 3500 dually 5.9 is smoking black and is slow
That part is called The Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Solenoid.
Dodge in Saskatoon canada wanted 1400.00 bucks 😮
Ooof! Yeah, those are pricey from the dealers! Amazon has them far cheaper. Not sure who they are made by, but for $200-$300 it might be worth a try!
God Bless in Jesus Christ Name Amen.
Thank you!
He’s fkn found it. My bt50 drives normal for 25mins on the freeway then goes into limp mode. I’m gonna try the pressure test this weekend. I e checked every hose it’s doing my head in
Hope that was the fix for you! Thanks for watching!
Crankshaft position sensor and or camshaft position sensor need to be replaced! I’d replace both honestly since you’ll be in the same area on the engine! Good luck !
Delete that solenoid and put a resistor on the wire.
Have you been able to do that successfully in the past? Seems like the ECU would recognize that as a fault. Also, without the solenoid, it won't build up all the boost. You'd have to wire the wastegate closed as well, and that seems risky! If you've been able to do it, let us know the details!
@@3DayWeekend You buy a waste gate control set at 40psi plug the hole where the factory junk was screwed in with a plug you can buy. Then plug in the resistor pre made or use your own I can’t remember off the top of my head how many ohms but I bought mine pre-made.
@@3DayWeekend BTW the ECU sees the resistance as everything is OK and hooked up.
Be cheaper to buy a fixed vane turbo
It's a boost control solenoid not VVT Actuator as they are a fixed vane turbo as you put it, what are on about !
I like to keep this one stock. I've blown it up one time too many to play with it anymore! Thanks for watching.
get to your point!!!
Done. Thanks for watching!