Dodge Cummins apps sensor (throttle position) repair 2001 2500 turbo diesel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2015
- This video is about a Cummins Turbo Diesel 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 isb 5.9 (APPS) accelerator pedal position sensor (throttle position sensor) removal and replacement repair. This is the procedure for the individual sensor as opposed to the whole assembly. This sensor is one of the potential causes of "dead pedal." Troubleshoot by back probing sensor harness and watching sensor range voltage (with key on engine off), on a multimeter, for a smooth sweep from .6VDC at idle position to 3.8VDC at full throttle position. Parts supplied from Geno's garage. www.genosgarage.com
/ @genos-garage
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This video was much more informative than the 5 that I partially watched before this one.
I think the best part of the entire video was that there was minimal talking, unless there was something that needed to be addressed.
Keep the videos coming. 👍🏻✌🏼
Good video ! I added to my Playlist of Dodge stuff.
the first set of pliers you had on the torx bolt are bad ass if you flip them around the right way. they are way better for stripped bolts than any vise grips, but the teeth are directional.
Thanks man..about time someone did a vid on the manual trans set up..
very good video. on my truck setting the voltage was needed to make it work. the screw had some plastic locktite that made it difficult to turn. I did mine by loosening the two screws holding the sensor and turning slightly. thank you.
Thanks for the info. Glad it was an easy fix.
Thanx for making this. I have an '03 2500 and mine is needing replaced. 310,000+
Mine had a bad miss at idle and would often stall out until it was warm. It ended up being the TPS ! Thank you for this video.
Appreciate you make my nightmare go away i try to find the sensor it self but no one in Seattle area has it they sale whole assemble now I know were to by it. you're awesome.
+sadeg48 I'm glad I can help. Unfortunately it will probably be a lengthy process until the vehicle is actually fixed (and dealerships will not likely be much help; as you will see in the forums). Make sure to test the sensor first; and do lots of research, before you spend any money. A lot of individual problems will cause the "dead pedal" symptom e.g. corroded electrical connections, sensors on the transmission, "noise" in the electrical system, etc.. Clean battery terminals to shiny metal, unplug all associated connectors and plug them back in; etc. first. Companies selling injection pumps will be quick to condemn the pump. Read all the forums and take meticulous notes; especially anything by Turbo Diesel Register. Read the forums related to the symptoms on mopar1973man.com/topic/7760-dead-pedal-help/. Make sure watch videos on apps noise isolator and the video on the throttle bushing problem at this link. th-cam.com/video/GDURznrG2sg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for posting this.. I changed out my sensor, had a little tough time getting the reading on the multi-meter, so I spliced in a jumper wire on that particular wire and was able to get my readings.. runs great now.. appreciate the tips...
Awesome video ! i Guess im back here again.
Thank you very much for making it. Very well done !
i have a 1999 ram 2500 so im guessing its the same.
I would prove it is bad with a multimeter and/or scanner before buying the part. And make sure that you are not confusing “dead pedal” with the myriad causes of “limp mode.”
This is an interesting video.. but please read the following notes and critique which will help him and everybody else.
Notes:
a) In older models of Dodge trucks this was called the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). On Dodge 2nd generation 24 valve Cummins engines it is now called an APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor).
b) The OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual states:
“Whenever the Engine Control Module (ECM), or the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for an emission related item, it illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The MIL is displayed on the instrument panel as the CHECK ENGINE lamp. The MIL will only be illuminated for DTCs that affect vehicle emissions.”
DTS Code Descriptions:
P0121 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low - APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
P0122 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low - APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
P0123 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too High - APPS voltage input above the maximum acceptable voltage.
c) The NEGATIVE cables of BOTH batteries should be disconnected before performing this task. Why? Two reasons. One is safety so that one doesn't short out something and second, this will give the ECM and PCM time to flush out their OLD readings.
d) It is best to take a reading at the wire harness BEFORE disconnecting the batteries and make note of what the PRESENT APPS (TPS) reading is. Read from your voltmeter (multimeter). It should read .580 - .670. If it is within this range, your APPS is probably still good. Check your fuel pressure from your lift pump.
You can connect a paperclip to the POSITIVE lead of your voltmeter and insert it into Pin #3 (Green wire on the APPS harness or light Blue wire w/black tracer on the factory connector). The paperclip will connect to your voltmeter (multimeter’s) Positive lead. This is why an alligator clip on the end of your lead is good to have. The negative lead from your voltmeter will connect to the Negative post of your battery.
e) After installation the APPS must be calibrated. The Engine Control Module (ECM) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) should be reprogrammed by slowly depressing/raising the accelerator pedal with the ignition on/engine not running (as shown at the end of this video).
f) You need the proper tools to do this. You will need a voltmeter (multimeter) to test voltage. A paper clip to go into the wire harness from the POSITIVE lead of your voltmeter. A T-20 Torx bit. An OBD II scan code reader to read then clear your trouble codes. A socket wrench with 10mm socket to remove the 6 bolts.
If your ODB II Scan Code Reader displays either a P0121, P0122, or P0123 error code, this means your APPS could be faulty. A faulty APPS will cause erratic shifting of your automatic transmission. Usually around 40 mph. Also your fuel pressure could be low from your lift pump.
g) Another problem that can cause erratic shifting and set FALSE APPS codes is if your lift pump is putting out LOW PRESSURE via the fuel filter into the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump! Sounds weird but its true (happened to me). The PCM notes the VP44 isn't getting enough pressure and tries to compensate via the APPS. This causes shifting problems which sets a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) and shows up as a "Check Engine" light on your dash and in some Dodge dashboards... a trouble code related to the APPS. After putting in 2 different APPS units (the first one a module as in this video and the second a complete unit mounted and calibrated to the bracket) I still had the problem. But when I checked my fuel pressure and noted it was LOW then changed the lift pump... it all went away! After deep study of my Official Dodge Service Manual I finally discovered it was the lift pump.
h) The APPS/TPS module can be bought on EBay. I bought a new one for $53. The complete unit which includes the bracket and is already calibrated can be bought at AutoZone. I paid about $130 and the dealer wanted over $400.
i) After installing a new APPS and calibrating the ECM via slowly depressing/returning the pedal inside the truck.. use your OBD II scan tool to ERASE your bad DTS code.
Let's look at the problem(s) with what he's doing.
----------------------
1) He's not using the correct tools to remove the APPS (TPS) potentiometer. Its nothing more than a is a linear potentiometer. You need a T-20 Torx to remove/install the APPS (TPS). But vice grips can work. ;-)
2) He should have cleaned the area of grease and grime then used a Sharpie marking pen to go around the APPS (TPS) to mark its EXACT location prior to removing it. The OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual (not a Chilton or Haynes) states that the APPS is "calibrated to the bracket." That means they calibrate it at the factory so it is simple to remove the APPS (TPS) and the bracket as one unit.
Critical note: If removing the complete bracket, make sure you use a mirror and pull the throttle cable and other cables FORWARD (toward the front of the truck) to unhook them so as NOT to break the connectors otherwise you'll end up buying and installing a new throttle cable!
3) Note also the OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual states that one should NEVER turn the Torx screw at the Throttle (as this fellow is doing) as the APPS (TPS) is calibrated to the bracket and also the Torx screw is tightened into position with Loctite so it won't come loose and cause problems. Again, if he had taken readings BEFORE he removed the APPS (TPS) and had MARKED its position with a Sharpie, he could have simply left the 2 screws loose on the APPS (TPS) and adjusted it forward or backward to calibrate it. Rotating FORWARD increases voltage while rotating BACKWARD decreases voltage which should be between .580 - .670 (0.580 - 0.670).
4) Notice that when he moves the bracket around and is watching his multimeter how the voltage varies. It's IMPOSSIBLE to get a true reading until the bracket is mounted with the 6 bolts. Then all one needs to do is slip a paper clip into the wire harness to take a reading.
5) The way he calibrates the APPS (TPS) to the ECM at the end of the video is 100% correct. However if the voltage is too high or too low on the APPS (TPS), he'll still get P0121, P0122 or P0123.. in that case he should push a paper clip into Pin #3 (Green wire on the APPS harness or light Blue wire w/black tracer on the factory connector) to get his reading. The paper clip is connected to your POSITIVE lead of your voltmeter and the NEGATIVE lead is connected to your negative battery terminal.
6) While taking the reading hold the bracket VERTICAL and steady as much as possible and ROTATE the APPS forward or backward to get a voltage reading of .580 to .670 (0.580 - 0.670). Gently tighten the two T-20 Torx screws on the APPS so as not to lose your proper voltage. When you are sure you've got the voltage set properly, tighten the two T-20 Torx screws down tight. Use Loctite on the threads if you have it. Turn the ignition off.
7) Remount the APPS assembly bracket using the original six (6) 10mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 12-Nm (105 in. lbs.) torque. Caution: Use an INCH POUND torque wrench.. not a FOOT POUND torque wrench. If you do, you’ll over torque the bolts and strip them. If you don’t have a torque wrench, use good judgment in making them tight.
8) You should have left the Positive lead with the paper clip installed into the wire harness.. so turn the ignition back on and make darn sure your voltage reading is correct. If your voltage readings are between .580 - .670 (0.580 - 0.670) you will then calibrate the APPS to the ECM.
9) As shown in this video, leave the ignition on (or turn it back on) WITHOUT starting the engine. Slowly depress your pedal then slowly release it. Do it only one (1) time. Next, use your OBD II scan tool to clear your trouble code. Harbor Freight Tools sells one very cheap by the way.
10) Reattach the black plastic APPS/Throttle Cable cover. Press in the 2 plastic retention clips and screw in the 2 Phillips screws. You are now finished with the installation.
+Kolin Ken what experience do you have with “dead pedal” troubleshooting?
Please consider checking ALL of your GROUND wires at the battery and going from the battery to various parts of the frame. Sometimes the ground wire at the negative battery terminal(s) get corroded or almost broken and one of them goes to the APPS/TPS. This can cause "dead pedal" at a certain throttle position. Also, if you are getting any DTS code(s).. your APPS/TPS may be bad. But I've seen where a Dodge dealer put in a new APPS/TPS and it didn't cure a dead pedal. Turned out to be a simple ground wire problem. That's why I suggest you FIRST check ALL your GROUND wires at the battery and trace them to the metal parts of your truck. Hope this helps. ;-)
+Kolin Ken it does. Thanks. I also heard some role the brake light switch could play too.
So if I purchase the entire bracket with the sensor already mounted. I wont have to recalibrate it your saying?
After installation, check everything to make sure it is within spec/parameters and prove to yourself that nothing needs calibrated.
Thank you very much for the video it helped tremendously!!!!
+Travis Coffelt excellent.
Thx much... definitely not as bad as I thought
Just make sure to prove it is the problem before spending time and money. Lots of things could cause the “dead pedal” symptom. Read lots of forums. Best of luck.
Tested mine it reads .50 volts at idle 4.44 at full throttle. Any suggestions
it never showed when to fully tighten the sensor mounting screws (2) ?
So what symptoms do you have when this is a problem and you were using the adjustable pliers, vice grips backwards.
+E Buzek You have a no, or a range of travel with no, signal from this sensor. Prove to yourself that the sensor is bad by testing it as shown in the video before changing it. This video proves that pliers are bi-directional. I even use them upside-down sometimes.
The live data on my scanner says I only have 74% throttle what do I do about that thank you great video
Try calibrating the throttle (just Google it) then rechecking.
Good evening, I changed in my ram 3500 2001 diesel the TPS sensor calibrated at .55 v but in the calibration test it does not exceed 1.99 and it becomes OL and remains dead
Make sure your multimeter is set up for the correct voltage range and meter lead positions, etc.. Or, if you have the option, try testing the range with another multimeter to make sure it isn’t the test equipment. If you still have the old TPS, plug it in without bolting it up and try the test with it. It might give some clues of next steps to take. Take care.
what is the difference when backprobing to get voltage readings and calibrating throttle with ECM? both call for the key on and engine off, do you disconnect the batteries to reset before calibrations begins?
+mrgoodtimes05 batteries should not need to be disconnected. I’m not understanding your other question.
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I’ve had to reset the sensor on my 98 24 valve a few times since July. Sometimes it works alright and sometimes it doesn’t. Here lately it hasn’t been working well. Is it safe to say I need a new sensor or maybe try some other stuff first? Have not done anything but reset it a time or three
I would not buy a new sensor unless you can prove it is bad with a multimeter. Make sure you are not confusing “dead pedal” with the vehicle computer enabling “limp mode.” Differentiating “dead pedal” and “limp mode” will let you know which troubleshooting steps to take (and which electronic sensors or circuit boards to test). That is step number one. When you “reset” the sensor, that may only seem to work because you turned off the ignition; and reset the circuit that does have the problem. Search a bunch of forums for limp mode for your vehicle and take lots of notes; take it step by step and be patient and you will figure it out. Take care.
I’d say it’s not in limp mode. It runs good and speeds up to highway speeds without a problem, just takes a little longer due to the pedal not being as responsive as it normally is. I used it to haul a 16 foot trailer load of furniture plus some in the back of the truck this past weekend and couldn’t even tell it was back there at 60 mph. Sped up from a complete stop and pulled it down the highway with no trouble. Unless they’ll run that good in limp mode, I’d say it’s not in limp, but I don’t know. I assume to test the sensor with a multimeter I would do it the same way you did it in the video? Thanks for your help and information
Yep, test the same way as in the video. Just make sure it isn’t intermittently going in and out of limp mode (when you are experiencing the symptom). It would be weird, but you could run a wire from the TPS into the cab so you could watch the voltage on a multimeter and see whether or not you are losing the signal while you are driving.
Thanks for the info. Will test it out soon. Hopefully will end up finding at least something
03 Ram 2500 5.7 ... Driving and it cut off mechanic thought it was a crank position sensor changed and no go... Now they think it's the acceleration pedal sensor does this sound right? My throttle doesn't open and truck doesn't start just kinda whizzes or whatever. What say you? Anybody else with a Dodge have this problem?
Verify batteries and charging system have clean (metal to metal), tight connections and the alt voltage is getting to the battery first. Clean/inspect all major grounds (at engine block and body). Then start verifying each possible component that could cause symptom tests bad before replacement. There are lots of forums detailing the possible suspects. Good luck. Take care.
Nice coverage.
Maybe you know the answer to this unique issue I have on my 2005 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins automatic w/overdrive transmission? 196,000 miles.
It's the original transmission and motor. All fluids/oils and filters regularly changed and kept clean/new. Not used to tow often...4-5 times a year at most and 8,000 lb loads at most.
I've asked 4 tranny shops and a few forums and Facebook groups but no luck finding same problem or proper fix. I'm wondering if I'm just that special?!?? Lol
One mild Fall day last year I had driven 260 miles on interstate at about 75-80 mph. It began slowly reducing speed over 6 miles from 80 to 15mph. Moving fuel pedal would not do anything but make it stumble a little a couple dozen RPMs up or down. Stopping and restarting it immediately did not help nor did changing gears manually.
All fluids were fine, not too hot and no burning of anything fluid or conduit wire was observed. All looked good under and above it.
I stopped it for 30 minutes as I checked it over. It would drive normally after that, but it would only go 25-30 miles before it would slowly slow down again as described above. I did this over many cycles all the way home 260 miles. I'd turn it off and on again, completely off as it rested for 25 minutes. The batteries seemed to be getting charged (started well each time) and no warning lights were on. Once or twice, when I drove it until it would not even crawl anymore (1-2 mph, I was testing it), it stalled. So it wasn't hard starting or hard-stalling unless I took it all the way down to 1-2 mph speed. It was not idling weird either.
Could this be an electrical ground failure or electronic issue? If I had a battery connection loose or anything disrupting the flow could it cause this? It seems like something is getting tired and needing to cool down or something but nothing was overly hot or smoking. What's weird to me is it's not slipping in the usual way of revving up but not moving. It would usually get no lower than idle.
Tranny shops haven't heard of this before. No transmission codes either. They want to charge me $3,000+ for new or rebuilt tranny. I want to rule out wiring and electronics (that don't throw codes) first.
Any suggestions? Heard of this ever before for an automatic transmission?
Thanks!
Perhaps put a gauge on your lift pump fuel pressure so it can be monitored and ruled out. Then, any possible restriction, heat related or physical blocking, can be eliminated from potential causes. Also, research anything that may cause any drivetrain system to go into “limp mode.” Don’t give up in the forums and other resources of information. Keep taking meticulous notes of symptoms and situations. It will be an awesome story to tell in the end. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
@@kilikobanashoba ok thanks! Will do
What wire did you plug the red (hot+) probe in to?
Just probe all the terminals until you find the one that reads .6VDC at idle, then raises when the throttle is advanced, as shown in the video. Focusing on the wire colors will only make it more confusing.
Terminal #3. It's marked on the harness side. Blue with black stripes.
Why cant you just unplug the old sensor and put the new one on and be done? Do you have to do all the extra stuff?
It depends. Regardless, all that “extra stuff” takes less than five minutes.
Kilikoba Nashoba its just iv replaced many censors for my jeep but never had to test the ohm's.. But the petal calibrating i can see you having to do. My 05 3500 dodge has threw this apps sensor code at me and i have to replace the something. Hope its as easy as your video
Just keep in mind the video is for the 98 1/2-02 Cummins era technology.
Have the same sensor like you and can only get it down to .68
+Richard Myers I wouldn't worry about the .08 difference in voltage reading. That variance may differ with a different multimeter. Or perhaps my adjustment screw on the idle adjustment has a modicum more of travel.
Tps voltage also jumps from .50 to 4.44 dose not gradually get there
+Dylan Cyprian that range doesn't necessarily condemn the apps. Always verify readings with another multimeter. Voltage jumping doesn't sound good; however, other things could cause that besides the apps. With readings that jump on multimeters always make sure that isn't just reading that way because your multimeter is in auto ranging mode (voltages appear to jump as it switches from one voltage mode to a higher or lower one). A worn throttle linkage bushing would also cause that symptom (as seen in this linked video th-cam.com/video/GDURznrG2sg/w-d-xo.html).
+Kilikoba Nashoba I should have started by telling you what the truck is doing . At around 52 miles per hour the trucks Rpms jump it's only a couple Rpms but you can definitely feel it. The trans has been re built so know it's good . We also replaced the wire that comes off the tps and connects to the negative battery cable. I checked the tps with two different volt meters same thing my voltage at idle and ful throttle are good but no readings in between idle and wot .
+Dylan Cyprian I'm sure this will help you. www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm
I've been trying to find the actual sensor harness pigtail (with no luck), does anyone know where i could get one online?
You talking about this?
www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Senser-Dodge-Ram-5-9-Cummins-TPS-Harness-Pigtail-APPS-/162855873974?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Or what is in this picture?
www.ebay.com/itm/TPS-APPS-Throttle-Position-Sensor-Fits-Dodge-Ram-1998-2007-Cummins-Bell-Crank-US-/352519870924?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
those seem to be female adaptors pigtails, the item I’m looking for is in 2:00 min of your video.
That is just a six-pin male deutsch connector available anywhere that sells deutsch connector kits. Auto-parts stores only know to type in year make and model and read what the screen says. They likely will be no help. I would just find a male six-pin deutsch pigtail on the Internet. Or if you want individual pieces, try this:
www.deutschconnector.com
Thanks man, huge help
I have a problem where my truck throttle stops working but when I pump it it works again and keeps doing that back and forth any tips?
I would learn what changes when you pump it. Does the electric signal from one component to another change; or the fuel delivery rate change? You can install pressure sensors or multimeter test leads at components to answer these questions while you are troubleshooting the system.
Hey julio were you able to figure out what the problem was with your truck??
I realize this is an old post and the reason I am asking is because my 04 ram is doing the same thing, not very often but mainly when we are going uphill. I will appreciate any help on this matter.
@@lupopina3616 yes the problem was the throttle position sensor I replaced it and did the reset procedure and it worked like a charm
@@juliorodriguez454 Your reply is greatly appreciated.
WHAT COLOR WIRE DID YOU HOOK THE POS. LEAD FROM THE METER TO THE CONNECTION
+charles owens wire color might not be helpful on your vehicle. Backprobe each of the wires until you read .6VDC (KOEO) key on, engine off. This proves that you have the correct wire. Thanks.
There all around 2v
+charles owens Even when moving the throttle by hand?
Ill ck thx
98 dodge ram 3500 5.9
Desiel
After probing around the lowest reading i cab find is 1.3v. Any thoughts?
Did you set the idle adjustment screw (as shown in the video at 4:30-4:50)? Perhaps it is set to not go low enough. If the adjustment has been messed with, set it according to the procedure in the video.
thats the step i am currently on. At 4:09 are you probing the orange /w blue stripe wire?
+Derek Abbott The wire that a lot of installation pamphlets, forums, etc. tell you to probe is the wrong color. That's why I just probe all of them until I find the proper one (as proven by its voltage). I can't remember which color wire it was; and won't be able to go verify it for a few days.
Derek Abbott
p1749 is my code for 2005 2500 ram
+Juan Trevco this video applies to 98.5-2002 pickups. Try searching for that code on turbo diesel register and other forums.
where did you get the sensor my code is p0121 on a 2001 dodge 3500
+bill justice I got it from genosgarage.com. Make sure to prove that the sensor is bad before spending any money. Take care.
@Kilikoba Nashoba how do I prove the sensor is bad before buying a new one? My truck idles fine, but the throttle seems to fluctuate very noticeably when I drive- especially in cold weather.
The portion of the video with the multimeter reading the proper voltages shows how you prove the sensor is good or bad. There are many things that could cause your symptom besides the sensor. Make sure to read all the comments for this video I and others have contributed. Take care.
I bought a sensor like this online and when I installed it I watched this video to help me out and I got 0.01 volts without adjusting it how do it get it to be 0.6?
The video at 4:41 shows where and how to adjust the idle setting. Thread the torx screw in or out until the desired idle voltage is seen on the multimeter. Make sure to take a voltage reading at the positive battery terminal to make sure your negative meter lead is hooked to a good ground. Then test again at the proper terminal, for the .6VDC.
I tried it and now the truck stays idle and the throttle gives no response at all
Does your voltage vary across the range shown starting at 4:52, of the video, when you manually move the throttle? If it does not, then something is probably not hooked up or installed correctly.
What's the part number?
Search apps sensor at Geno’s garage.
On my 1999 dodge ram 2500 diesel I already put 4 tps censor
And still the same only works
For 10 day's and fail again
Any idea
+jesus Sepulveda please read the reply I made to sadeg48 about five or so comments ago. There are many things that cause that symptom. And you will have to compile the list and check them off one by one. I trust the Turbo Diesel Register forum more than others. It could be as simple as a bad battery or connection at one of them, or an electrical issue elsewhere, or it could be something expensive. As you read the forums you will see that "what fixed it" is different for almost every person. Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
Thanks for the tip
my code.y p1749. on 2005 dodge.2500.ram 4x4.
+Juan Trevco is this how you read the codes? th-cam.com/video/3GqCsfmCTuE/w-d-xo.html
VIDEO WAS GOOD, UNTIL YOU USED THE VICE GRIPS INCORRECTLY...
Your comment was good until you punctuated it incorrectly.
@@kilikobanashoba OOOOH, YOURE SCARY... STOP.......
what i want , is a dodge truck , cummins powered , with absolutely zero sign of a computer anywhere on it...
i think what u want is a 1994-98 12valve cummins. ibelieve they are all mechanical injection.
@@OcRefrig i have been hunting a 1989 to 1993 , but they are few and far between....and they are high $$ for one that is not trashed or salted out....i have a 2002 auto , and have put the noise reducer and a new apps sensor on it and it still has problems with dead pedal .it has 103,000 mi on it.
I would make sure to do enough research that you are not confusing “dead pedal” with “limp mode.”
@@kilikobanashoba yes i probably do need to research it a lot more.....right after i replaced the apps sensor , i drove it around for 30-40 mi and it seemed to run perfectly...then it went right back to the same problem... when i press the pedal and get no response , i can let completely off the pedal for a second or two and then press the pedal and get normal acceleration....repeat this several times is what i am doing....i will recalibrate the sensor and see if that helps...........i am really too old for all of this computer stuff , i see no need for a computer to sense where i mash the accelerator , a steel rod or a cable to the throttle linkage would cost 1/10th of a( accelerater pedal position sensor ).........i don't care if a first gen dodge cummins does cost an arm and a leg , it will be worth getting rid of the aggrevation all of this computer stuff causes.....!! ... please excuse the rant....thanks for the advice !!!
@@kilikobanashoba iwent to recalibrate the sensor and found that the idle screw had backed out almost all the way out ( only a thread holding it in )...i put some nail-polish on it and re-calibrated it , drove it down the road aways and it seems to be doing all right now....thanks for your input....
my code is p1747