Yes it was deffinatly a concern of ours! But we went bit by bit with a vacuum cleaner nearby and tried to suck in all the metal shavings as they were coming out! Tree style drill bit up to around 12-14mm
yow ive been loving for a video for the feed for the turbo forver even messaged people and didnt get the right answer but this video helped a lot my dudes, thanks for keeping the video to the point
@xiFez thank you my dude! we were having the same problem before our install, which is why we made this video to solve everyone elses questions!! glad you like it man!! more to come!
No worries, the metal shavings will end up on the outside of the sump and any shavings that possibly go into the sump will sit on the bottom and come out when they change the oil and any shavings that get sucked Into the system get caught in the oil filter.
Hi @Ricardo i dont know if you can see in the video because it is fast forwarded, but while we were drilling into sump we also had our industrial vaccum cleaning sucking up the excess shavings As for shavings falling inside, we did an oil change right after doing this before car was started to insure the sump was clear, exactly how @Clearview has explained!! Thank you very much for watching guys
@@AutoMotiv8ed ah okay. That makes the whole Na-t conversion much easier as you don't need to take the engine out/sump off to tap it as I've heard from others
@@ricardo9628 Suprisingly this whole Na-t conversion was much more easier than we had originally planned, so much easier than removing the engine! I'll make a video once the build is done, about what the hardest/most frustrating things were while doing the entire build!
@@AutoMotiv8ed Hi Thank you for your reply. Appreciate all the shared info and I am hoping you can help me out with the below which compression ratio is best for my setup? With my setup, what should I do to get the correct quench/squish? What size gasket thickness should I be using? I am no qualified mechanic and do no have the any specialized measurement equipment to work out the above questions. I however would like to hear from the more experienced builders like yourself on what to do so that my already bought parts and cash spent do not end up being wasted by making the wrong choices. I will be running on pump gas which is 95 octane rating as per the pump reading and would like to achieve 500 - 550hp. I have a 2jz ge vvti complete engine which i bought aftermarket parts to strengthen the bottom end so that I can turbo my engine. When I bought the parts i didnt have knowledge about choosing the correct CR or know anything about quench/ squish. I had the block and head checked out by my engineering shop and didn't have to shave off anything from my ge vvti head as I was told, its straight after being checked. The block too also did not require any straightening. I bought the following CP forged pistons 10.0:1 with 86.5mm bore Eagle H beam rods ACL Big end and Conrad bearings 1.3mm cometic MLS headgasket 86.5mm Uncut ARP headstuds Piston volume = -4.48cc (as per specifications) I asked one of the builders at Realsteet and he suggested that I purchase a 2.0mm HG in order to achieve a CR with something in the low 9.2:1 I am a bit skeptical as to purchasing a 2.0mm gasket as I'm afraid this might give me a higher quench above what is required I am looking forward to hearing from you.
@@johnnacua9942without taking off the intake manifold it’s quite impossible to spot it’s like a needle in a haystack, if you know where your coolant temp sensor is it’s below that near the bottom of the block on the intake side of the engine
This is the ideal video I finally found it. Do you have the part numbers for the race works t and fitting? Also do you know the lengths for the steel braided lines?
@Erik Valencia Thank you so much for your awesome feedback!! I dont have the part numbers but if you go onto their website you can find it, should be pretty staight forward the guys at raceworks are very helpful! Lengths were not measured either, they usually sell in 1m, 1.5m or 2m and so on, so you can take a rough guess of how much line you need and can buy it in 1 length and cut it yourself!
Hi mate! Thank you for your message! Yes to our understanding, both 2JZ GE ( VVTI and NON VVTI) have the same block. The difference in both is the head, and conrods on the vvti are different also. Non vvti has thicker and stonger conrods. These are basically the only difference between the 2! Hope this helps Cheers
@Smerke you best off running a tee, that way you have the oil pressure switch working too. You wouldnt want to get rid of the oil pressure switch in cases where theres no oil/pressure, that could possibly save your engine.
hey i cant really rememeber the exact size, but its the exact same thread as the oil pressure switch. we just took the oil pressure switch with us to our local racewords dealer and they matched it up for us
Nice video’s man. The sump should’ve been drilled as ricardo said seperately, i did so and even with changing oil those shavings will stay in your oil pan. Did you fully drill the hole out for the drain? The bigger the better. Besides these, i’m very stoked to see the outcome, glad to see some na-t going on!
Hi @mike seegers Thank you for watching videos glad to know people are liking them!! We didn't fully drill out the hole in the sump mainly to reduce as much shavings inside sump as possible, we are going to end up making the hole a little bigger in the next couple of weeks once we get it back from the tuner! New video coming out end of the week!
When u tapped the holes for the oil, were yous afraid getting shavings in the sump? also what size tapping bit did yous use?
Yes it was deffinatly a concern of ours! But we went bit by bit with a vacuum cleaner nearby and tried to suck in all the metal shavings as they were coming out! Tree style drill bit up to around 12-14mm
@@AutoMotiv8ed ah yes the tree style bit, awesome
Hey where did you get the race works fittings from? I'm also from Western Sydney and can't find a physical shop when I look them up online.
hey man, we bought them all from AFI peakhurst
@@AutoMotiv8ed legend appreciate you boys!
@@buckychips6906 cheers man thanks for watching the videos 🙏🙏
raceworks can be bought from bebco
yow ive been loving for a video for the feed for the turbo forver even messaged people and didnt get the right answer but this video helped a lot my dudes, thanks for keeping the video to the point
@xiFez thank you my dude! we were having the same problem before our install, which is why we made this video to solve everyone elses questions!! glad you like it man!! more to come!
Aren’t you worried about metal shavings and such being in the sump now after you drilled the turbo oil drain?
No worries, the metal shavings will end up on the outside of the sump and any shavings that possibly go into the sump will sit on the bottom and come out when they change the oil and any shavings that get sucked Into the system get caught in the oil filter.
Hi @Ricardo i dont know if you can see in the video because it is fast forwarded, but while we were drilling into sump we also had our industrial vaccum cleaning sucking up the excess shavings
As for shavings falling inside, we did an oil change right after doing this before car was started to insure the sump was clear, exactly how @Clearview has explained!!
Thank you very much for watching guys
@@AutoMotiv8ed ah okay. That makes the whole Na-t conversion much easier as you don't need to take the engine out/sump off to tap it as I've heard from others
@@ricardo9628 Suprisingly this whole Na-t conversion was much more easier than we had originally planned, so much easier than removing the engine! I'll make a video once the build is done, about what the hardest/most frustrating things were while doing the entire build!
Hi, great content. Where did you get your water supply from for your turbo inlet and where does the coolant exit line from your turbo feed into?
Thank you!! Water feed comes from hose where the intake manifold was supplying water to the throttle body, and return is the same as in the video
@@AutoMotiv8ed
Hi
Thank you for your reply. Appreciate all the shared info and I am hoping you can help me out with the below
which compression ratio is best for my setup?
With my setup, what should I do to get the correct quench/squish?
What size gasket thickness should I be using?
I am no qualified mechanic and do no have the any specialized measurement equipment to work out the above questions. I however would like to hear from the more experienced builders like yourself on what to do so that my already bought parts and cash spent do not end up being wasted by making the wrong choices. I will be running on pump gas which is 95 octane rating as per the pump reading and would like to achieve 500 - 550hp.
I have a 2jz ge vvti complete engine which i bought aftermarket parts to strengthen the bottom end so that I can turbo my engine.
When I bought the parts i didnt have knowledge about choosing the correct CR or know anything about quench/ squish.
I had the block and head checked out by my engineering shop and didn't have to shave off anything from my ge vvti head as I was told, its straight after being checked. The block too also did not require any straightening.
I bought the following
CP forged pistons 10.0:1 with 86.5mm bore
Eagle H beam rods
ACL Big end and Conrad bearings
1.3mm cometic MLS headgasket 86.5mm
Uncut ARP headstuds
Piston volume = -4.48cc (as per specifications)
I asked one of the builders at Realsteet and he suggested that I purchase a 2.0mm HG in order to achieve a CR with something in the low 9.2:1
I am a bit skeptical as to purchasing a 2.0mm gasket as I'm afraid this might give me a higher quench above what is required
I am looking forward to hearing from you.
What size are the fittings and the long bolt came tap or you had to drill through it ?
Long bolt is where original oil pressure switch screws onto. Threads are identical to OEM oil presure switch.
Hey bro, dont know much about these engines yet but i cant seem to find the pressure switch on mine, could it be possibly have no switch? thanks
hey man, all 2j's have this oil pressure switch
@@AutoMotiv8ed my oil pressure switch seems to be not located the same as yours, do you know where it could be? thank you bro appreciate it
@@johnnacua9942without taking off the intake manifold it’s quite impossible to spot it’s like a needle in a haystack, if you know where your coolant temp sensor is it’s below that near the bottom of the block on the intake side of the engine
Hey, what size is the oil pressure switch? And thread pattern
Im not too sure off the top of my head, im pretty sure i just googled toyota 2jz oil pressure switch and the thread sizes were all listed on the adds
How were you able to drill the 2 holes that get tapped for the bolts? Not enough room to fit drill/bit because of the steering rack in the way.
We used the smallest makita drill and there was just enough room for it!
@@AutoMotiv8ed did you need to use a stubby drill bit as well?
@@TheMagicBambi correct! 😁
@AutoMotiv8ed dang, I tried finding a stubby and seems like they dont make em in that size.
@TheMagicBambi you can also try a "right angled" drill attachment, this should work
This is the ideal video I finally found it. Do you have the part numbers for the race works t and fitting? Also do you know the lengths for the steel braided lines?
@Erik Valencia Thank you so much for your awesome feedback!! I dont have the part numbers but if you go onto their website you can find it, should be pretty staight forward the guys at raceworks are very helpful! Lengths were not measured either, they usually sell in 1m, 1.5m or 2m and so on, so you can take a rough guess of how much line you need and can buy it in 1 length and cut it yourself!
Great video mate but, I was wondering if the 2JZ GE "VVTI" block is same as the GE "Non VVTI" block?
Hi mate! Thank you for your message!
Yes to our understanding, both 2JZ GE ( VVTI and NON VVTI) have the same block. The difference in both is the head, and conrods on the vvti are different also.
Non vvti has thicker and stonger conrods.
These are basically the only difference between the 2!
Hope this helps
Cheers
@@AutoMotiv8ed Thanks for the reply brother... really appreciate your help
What hose fitting did you use for the oil drain -10an flange? My fitting keeps hitting that bolt near the flange and my fitting wont screw it straight
Is your car auto or manual? If auto you have to make somthing else fit as transmission cooler is in the way and you will not have enough room.
do i need to run a tee with the oil pressure switch or could i just run the feed straight from the union bolt
@Smerke you best off running a tee, that way you have the oil pressure switch working too. You wouldnt want to get rid of the oil pressure switch in cases where theres no oil/pressure, that could possibly save your engine.
@@AutoMotiv8ed o okay thanks so is it a physical switch or just a sensor
@@SmerkeHD sensor/switch same
@@AutoMotiv8ed ok thanks that’s what I figured I appreciate the help
Hi can you give me the thread size and specs for the oil feed fittings and the tee piece
hey i cant really rememeber the exact size, but its the exact same thread as the oil pressure switch. we just took the oil pressure switch with us to our local racewords dealer and they matched it up for us
Oil feed from the big bolt 1/8 bspt
Nice video’s man. The sump should’ve been drilled as ricardo said seperately, i did so and even with changing oil those shavings will stay in your oil pan.
Did you fully drill the hole out for the drain? The bigger the better.
Besides these, i’m very stoked to see the outcome, glad to see some na-t going on!
Hi @mike seegers
Thank you for watching videos glad to know people are liking them!!
We didn't fully drill out the hole in the sump mainly to reduce as much shavings inside sump as possible, we are going to end up making the hole a little bigger in the next couple of weeks once we get it back from the tuner!
New video coming out end of the week!
@@AutoMotiv8ed i would make drilling that hole a priority hey!
last thing you want is oil drain back pressure = lots of blue smoke
@@RallyRanchMotorsport Hi yes i will keep that as my main priority as soon as we receive the car back all finished up !
@@AutoMotiv8ed did you end up drilling that bigger and whered you get the return fitting from?
@@Stanistanbouli321 yes we did, you can find return fitting on golbeys parts.com
What’s the name of the tool I need it too
Right Angle Drill Attachment
I still plan to remove my motor and sump to do that I don’t want shavings getting in my components
That way is always the best way to get it done, but if you dont have any access of removing the motor, it could still be done~
Have you guys got Instagram?
@Wogface Supra hi yes we just started one up last week!
@automotiv8ed_
This is a very bad idea to do on the car, metal shavings all through your engine