Budget 2JZ Part 3: Detailed Assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I take apart the head, clean parts for an eternity, and get the 2jz na-t assembled. Hope you guys enjoy the video. Don't forget to like and subscribe, and leave me feedback in the comments!
Follow me on Instagram @Teysik
Thanks for watching!
2JZ Service Manual: www.2jzgarage....
Valve removal tool: www.amazon.com...
Intake Manifold: www.amazon.com...
Turbo: eliteracefab.c...
Misc 2jz Parts and turbo Manifold: driftmotion.com
Music by Ripjaw: / ripjawband
Parts List
docs.google.co...
Thanks you for the video! I just pulled a 2jz-ge vvti out today. Your videos give me hope. lol
Thanks for watching, hope I can help lol
I use a good amount of grease on the end of a screw driver to hold the keepers on the end at the correct angle to install them
Good tip
I was broke an hopeless but now I’m broke with hope and picking up a 2j from the junk yard tomorrow
Haha hell yah. We all broke 😂
Thanks for your time and effort it was great to watch and your delivery is so smooth and easy to listen to no extra sales pitches just good information great video keep up the work
Thanks man I appreciate that!
I agree, I like the purple on the roll cage better💜
Notice half way through the video the valve cover color changes 😂
@@Teysik I didn't even notice😅 that's funny!
The cross over intake tube is actually a functional component as it dramatically increases torque.
Only in NA boosted its not really needed and adds restrictions
@@rustedratchetgarage6788 not true, the same fluid dynamics apply to boost as it does NA.
The cross over tube is efficient up to 650-700hp.
@@RallyRanchMotorsport5
Hey man! Not sure if the timing is different since you based it off the harmonic dampener but for VVTI it's supposed to be the line, not the dots. With the VVTI gear you rotate it clock wise fully till the line is aligned to the mark. Just trying to make sure all your hard work doesn't end in disaster 😂
You can use the lines on the gears if you used the main timing mark on the dampener and not the sub timing mark. If I turn it to the main timing mark, the gear lines line up. Either way works, I just did it the way the service manual shows
@@Teysik I assumed you probably did use the manual, keep up the good work man! I'm doing an NA-T build in a 99 Tacoma so I love seeing others doing the same stuff. I just finished my turbo oil lines, gotta finish all the electrical 😂
@@Teysik I also lined mine from the trigger wheel on the crank, not the balancer. That's why I thought you may be right. Just wanted to make sure, don't want your hard work going to waste man
@@SoWellGarage nice! You’re on to the fun part now 😂
@@Teysik yeah, thank God I actually enjoy wiring! I'm an ET in the navy so it's kinda what I do 😂 let me know if you need anything boss! Probably not by the looks of it though!
Thank God for this video, almost forgot a ton of stuff
Getting my engine to peices soon (2jz ge) and I will be watching all bro! Thanks for making it all proper clear with clear instruction!! Legend!
Thanks! ❤️
saving this for when I attempt to build my Gs300 GE
Do it!
@@Teysik she’s my daily beater until my genesis coupe is turbod with forged internals so it’s gonna be a little bit, but eventually I’m gonna send the 2j to the moon and blow out the frame then swap it in my 944 shell
@@OldDyer haha sounds like a good plan
Super informative, I’m geeked to start working on mine💪🏾💙💯
Thanks!
I did this with my turbo n/a 2J build. Running 15psi on the waste gate.
I put it in my 74 Datsun 260Z.
I have a 92 Supra intercooler on it all blacked out.
From the outside of the car the only thing that may give it away is the 2 1/2 exhaust with a flow master on it.
On the inside the only thing people see is a deleted radio and a boost gauge where the clock is.
Car pulls like crazy on the freeway when you get on the gas pedal above 70mph and i downshift to 4th. 💪🏾💪🏾
Sounds like a sweet project
@@Teysik Thanks Man. Yeah my daughter and I will break it free out of storage in the spring. 👍🏾
Very detailed and easy to follow lad 👍 Best of luck with the channel
Thanks bud!
Great video! I'm going to be doing this build for my is300 as an engine refresh and getting it ready for boost. Your videos are going to be great reference once I get in the garage and start breaking down the engines and combining them.
Sweet! Glad I could help and thanks for the support!
@@Teysik couple of quick questions, did you do anything to the cylinder walls to prep them, did you reuse the vvti engine oil pump and what brand/kind of engine prep solution did you use when putting the camshafts back in? Thank you for the insight!
@@jicez6649 I cleaned up the cylinder walls with a scotch brite pad and some wd40, I reused the vvti pump, and permatex ultra slick
@@Teysik thank you!
@@jicez6649 no problem!
from experience I highly recommend anyone doing this to take the head to machine shop and let them do the valve job and resurface the head and install guide seals. They will also blast the head and it will look brand new. usually 2-300$ bucks but saves so much time and energy and piece of mind. Because what if the junkyard motor had a warped head etc from running hot and they junked the car..
Always a good idea if you have the budget for it. I’ll definitely do that when I do a fully built engine
Apply a little Vaseline on the keepers or Lucas it works really easy
Definitely gunna try that next time, thanks!
Please keep making videos. U deserve 1m views for this typa stuff
Thank you! 🙏
Its motivation .. got a 2j ge..
Awesome bro can’t wait to see you get this finished. Gonna be awesome!!
Thanks dude. Cant wait to drive with you. What’s the first event you plan on going to?
@@Teysik not 100% sure yet still gotta couple things to do to the car but it’s getting close. Main thing I gotta do is order a new driveshaft next week turns out mine is out of round or unbalanced somewhere it keeps shredding guibos even with a new csb. Once I get that though I’ll be really close! That short shifter though is phenomenal I’m about to post a vid about that later tonight. Extremely short notchy throw. Can’t wait to drive with you too brother and get some sick footage!
@@Teysik also let me know if you ever need an extra hand on anything I'm always down to help and hang out in the shop!
@@boostedwheelie thanks bud!
awesome video man! im going to be doing the same build on my sc300 and the videos will be a great help!
Thanks! Glad to help
@@Teysik what ecu will you be running?
@@seifkeef2735 hopefully Link. Still working on that
Please do a parts and cost list video with part numbers.
I will at the end of the build
This is awesome information and a great video. You made it look so easy👍🏼💯
Thanks!
Great project doing well with everything
Thanks!
Nice! great work so far!
Great video dude! You're not getting the views you deserve yet but I hope you do! Pls do a total cost video if you can because I'm very curious. Also I recently found out that my grandfather worked at BorgWarner, and he was a centrifugal pump designer, so I'm 90% sure he designed turbos at BorgWarner.
That’s sick! I will be going over the cost eventually
Dammm 🔥
Nice work
This is sick! Keep it up
Thanks!
nice video bro! Thanks for hepl
Hey man, great video series and always good to see more NA-T content on TH-cam. I'm curious, what exhaust manifold is that, and how much was it if you don't mind me asking, and finally what engine management do you plan on using with this build?
Drift motion manifold, got it from a friend for cheap but I think they’re $250-300. The goal is to use link ecu but don’t know if the budget will allow for it
The video series is very good, all very well detailed, good luck with the project. 21:55 It is better to use the top cover, if any stone or something falls on the belt it can cause a problem.
Thanks! I’m thinking of running the top cover and painting it purple but leaving the front covers black
I would have lubed up those valve seals before installing
Should do a purple camo valve cover.... wouldn't have to repaint the whole thing and it will be original
That would be cool, but not my style
What exhaust manifold are you using again? great build!!!
Drift motion
question what ecu/engine harness did you use?
JDM aristo 2jz-gte factory ecu, built from scratch harness
Lap the valves 😆 🤣 😂
That’s what I was thinking about
just subscribed! keep them coming
Thanks!
Are you running a stock ge fuel rail? Did you just add a banjo to AN conversion fitting. One fuel line to rail with no return? Then, just have the regulator you added return fuel to tank ?
Stock rail drilled with a AN return fitting welded on.
@Teysik awesome Man you have been a big help for my build. Love your videos. Thanks !
@@timelesssteelgarage glad to help!
I was your 1000th sub :)
Thank you!!!!!!! ❤️
Nice!!
good stuff
Thanks!
did you get the head and block machined or did you just clean it very well?
Just cleaned it all
@@Teysik didnt expect to get an answer on a 3 year old video. Thank you so much brother!
@@Kifrans I try to answer every comment I get!
@@Teysik youre the best, definitely subscribed! Also what did you use to clean the head and block?
@@Kifrans scotch brite discs on a drill, plastic abrasive discs also work well. www.amazon.com/3M-3M-18730-Roloc-Bristle-Grade/dp/B002P55TX6
Nice build man,but I check you part list for this build and is like $ 10k for all the parts with out the transmission with all the work involved I think is easy to buy a 2jz gte engine and only add single turbo kit
A 2jz gte is $6k or more. And you still need almost every other part on my list. No way you’re doing it for less than $14k unless you use stock auto transmission
Very good content, considering taking this on myself... Couple of questions if anyone can help, share their knowledge... Should the head be skimmed or is it fine not to, and also will the piston rings gaps be OK for the higher temps ran in a turbo application
You can use a straight edge to get an idea if the head is warped or not. It has to be pretty bad for the head gasket to not seal. Gapping the rings a little looser would definitely be beneficial, but not necessary for 500hp
Finally got the crank bolt removed and I was wondering about the head going onto the non vvti block, the pistons and rods work just fine with the cams and everything in the vvti head? And also, when replacing the water pump or anything for the non vvti block are you using parts specified for that block? Because I know on drift motion they have let’s say water pumps specified for vvti and non vvti engines so I didn’t know what the main difference with some of those parts were
Yes everything works. I use parts that match the block. You will need a special oil line for the vvti solenoid, everything else should bolt right together
What size an fittings did you use for valve cover
I didn’t use AN for valve covers. Just used factory nipples with Rubber hoses and hoseclamps. I’ll probably upgrade to AN in the future, but that’s more for aesthetics
Can’t wait to start mine :), video was wicked keep up the content, love the detail :), any chance your thinking of doing a coil on plug set up for the vvti GE head? Or cam sensors
Vvti has coil on plug already, it just uses one coil for two plugs. I’ll be using the stock spark system and stock cam and crank sensors
@@Teysik okie perfect:) thanks for clarifying just trying to wrap my head around it all before I get started on mine :) definitely going to keep rewatching your videos to help me along with my build and budgeting it all out :) thanks for the quick reply
So I got my donor engine for the bottom half of the 2jz: 1994 Lexus gs300 my question that I can’t seem to find an answer for is would the transmission in my current 1999 gs300 be compatible with the bottom end of the donor engine? Current trans is the a650e 6 speed automatic and the donor car had a 4 or 5 speed I believe? Are the interchangeable or would I need a different trans? I don’t want to do the manual swap yet
Maybe you can pm me about it or if someone has an answer to the question
@@Diabetic_Deity should be the same exact bolt pattern. As far as the torque converter/flywheel goes, I’m not 100% sure but I think it would be the same
Quick question on the Turbo NA-T, did you have to put a cam position sensor in for the Turbo set up in the head?
The Ge vvti engines already have one cam sensor in the head, which will suffice
u can never have too much purple. doooooooo it
😂 I’m really tempted
With your swap, did you get new oem sensors for the block? All mine were cut and not sure if they're in working order.
Nah I reused the old stuff. You can try to test them to see if they’re functional, but most of those sensors don’t go bad very often
great work bro! I have the n55 135i planing to swap to 2jz of course the 2jz gte is crazy expensive i found ge vvti but Im planning to get forged roads etc…. because my goal is around 800-1000 hp do you think ge vvti with forged pistons etc…. can make that power or I need gte vvti? im a bmw new to the 2jz world :)
The block is basically identical between the two. With forged internals you’ll be fine. Sounds like a sick build!
How are you going about feeding oil to the vvti solenoid
Drift motion makes a line that connects it to the stock oil pressure sensor. Then I’ll use a port on the oil filter sandwich plate for oil pressure
Are you running the stock pistons and rods from the non vvti engine?
Yes, they’ve been used up to 700hp without issue
Hey man, just one more question, what did you do with the oil pump? Did you use the one from the vvti engine or got another one I've heard the non vvti does not have the hole for the crank shaft sensor.
You are correct, you need the vvti oil pump. I used the stock one
siiick
Did you use the oil pump with the hole for the crank sensor? The non vvti engines oil pump that I’m disassembling doesn’t have a hole for the crank sensor so should I switch to a vvti oil pump
Yes, you need the vvti oil pump
am i doing a non vvti block with a vvti head myself and had a question. i’m confused on how the whole crank position sensor works? i’ve been seeing i need a trigger wheel and tt oil pump so i can run the sensor? and how do i install the trigger wheel if i do need it?
You just take the oil pump and trigger wheel from the vvti engine. You basically want to use all vvti parts except the block and internals
Holy cow the turbo is 300$ more 😳
Gotta love inflation. It will probably come down again
@@Teysik hopefully man looking at the max speeding rods witch is the same size but way cheaper and will probably work for now
Hey, did you check the bottom end? Check bearings, hone and new rings? Or are you just running it as is?
As is. I did a visual inspection and listened for any bad noise while spinning the crank
what did you end up doing about the crank position sensors considering the non vvti has a distributor that looks like you removed?
The distributor is on the non vvti head which I’m not using. Swap the vvti oil pump onto non vvti block and you have your crank sensor. Cam sensors are on the vvti head
Hey, did you get the block hot tanked or did you just use oven cleaner for the deck and block? Did you get the deck or head milled?
No machining, and just degreaser and a lot of elbow grease for cleaning. Wire wheel on the block
When your lining up the cam gears for the timing belt, how do you know what the allignment is in relation to the cams are, do the cams also have an indicator as to where they have to be set before install?
Yes they do, your best bet is to find the engine service manual on google and follow that
@@Teysik gotchu👍🏼
I was looking at your parts list and was wondering if those are all required to purchase seperately or if some come already on the engine?
None of the parts listed other than the engines themselves came with the engines.
Is that a drift motion exhaust manifold?
Yes
How did you get the 13mm arp headstud bolts on. My 13mm socket is too wide for that opening
Need a thin wall socket
The lack of oil squiter on the ge is it really a problem? Or it will be as good as the gte?
Oil squirters are a luxury. Lots of racing teams prefer the ge block because you have more consistent oil pressure without the squirters
Check out supra vworld, he has a similar build, used parts from GTE, and GE to build a NAT non vvti. He also sells parts, thanks.
i have a dumb question. is that a rear sump or mid sump. i am trying to swap my e36 and i wanna know which oil pan i need
Technically I believe it is a mid sump. The GEs came with either front or mid, and mid is the one you need
Great build bro what was your budget if you don’t mind me asking?😎
Ideally no more than $7k for the whole swap
Why isn't it on the normal timing mark? you didn't mention.
Because that’s the way the service manual says to do it
Did you open up the non vvti bottom end? Or did you just throw the vvti head on there?
I had the oil pan off to swap it and inspected the internals at that time, but that’s it.
Dude you dint reseat your valves. OMG
Interesting, didn’t know that had to be done. I’ll look into it. Thanks
Are you talking about actually cutting/grinding the valves and seats for perfect fitment?
How are you going to give the VVTI cam gear Oil pressure?
It will be in my next video, but drift motion sells a line that feeds it off the oil pressure sensor port
Great content bro.
Question tho, what transmission you using with your 2jz?
Bmw ZF 5 speed
@@Teysik I got my gs300, was trying to see what the options were with my ge, like what you did bro. Still trying to figure out what route I take.
@@sanjosonny2503 the ZF is really small and fits in pretty much everything lol. Downside is the $1000 adapter kit
@@Teysik what do you think about the cd0009, 008?
@@sanjosonny2503 they’ve gotten expensive and they’re humongous
You didnt replace the rods?
No sir, the rods in the non vvti ge can hold close to 700hp
@@Teysik ohhh i thought you were going vvti ge block. Anyways, did you replace any bearings?. Ill be doing mine soon but not sure where or how to start. I have ge vvti engine and ge non vvti rods…. Problem with the rods is that im not sure if the caps matches the rods. I bought them used from someone
@@alexismontealegre1845 if I were replacing the rods I would do new bearings at the same time. I didn’t touch the non vvti bottom end. Just did valve seals on the head, new head gasket, and slapped it on. But I did clean the tops of the pistons first
So did you use a sc block or the is300 one
Non vvti sc or gs block
A 66 turbo! You can get 800-1,000 hp out of that.
I know 😂 it’s a little big for what I’m doing
Turbo specs?
Cast wheel, standard bearing, .91 AR?
Cheers 🍻
.91 ar, journal bearing, and I assume cast wheel. Borg Warner part number is 177275
Is the transmission bmw hp30 v12 great with this engine bro ?
No idea never heard of that trans
What did you do to clean the Surface on the block ? To get a good seal for block and head ?
Razor blade, scotch brite pad, and lots of brake clean
@@Teysik awesome brother thanks
@@Kawichris636 no problem
1998 SC300 has no distributor on the side. Is that still a good strong bottomend Engine??
No, they switched to vvti in 98, that would have the weaker rods
@@Teysik thanks for all the great info.
@@walterguzman2337 no problem
Hey bro what turbo manifold did you do with ?
Drift motion
What exhaust manifold is that.? Cxracinh.??
Drift motion t4
@@Teysik how is holding.?
Any issues.?
@@300zx-jdmjdm8 works good. No issues so far
Where you located man?
Iowa
@@Teysik dam man i got a 2jz ge build.. trying to use stronger rods because mine are like toothpicks.. just need some guidance lol im in az
@@benjamensheen3533 just use rods from non vvti ge. They are identical to gte rods
Ita gte or ge oil pump?
Stock ge pump for now
What throttle body?
eBay 90mm with Toyota tps
@@Teysik got a part number bro? Im currently stuck with the sensor, oem pigtail?
Can you put one together for me?
Haha nahhh
@@Teysik lol
Thanks for the info I definitely will be building one of these, 2jz GTE costs 15k, ducking nuts.
@@dronetrucker it is nuts!
what you do about the vvti solenoid oil line. isnt this the ge block
Yes. Buy a $50 line from drift motion that feeds the solenoid from the stock oil pressure sensor hole in the block. Then get an oil filter sandwich plate with an 1/8npt bung and put your pressure sensor there
@@Teysik thanks makes sense . is motor going strong?
@@cookie-hf5ww absolutely. Watch some of my newer videos and you can see it in action
@@Teysik sorry another question for turbo feed should i use the sandwich plate aswell? also does the non vvti have crank sensor?
@@cookie-hf5ww I actually can’t remember where my turbo feed comes from. Non vvti has cam and crank, but you’ll want to use the sensors and crank pulley from the vvti engine