fell asleep last night watching this @283 views hahah had to re-watch @1049 views now. 😂 |Great video as always. man those second tolerances close but he's lucky indeed. | Can't wait to see the cam sensor mod/install video
Jezz Ryan, you make me feel as old as the hills when you called Colton a “young kid”, whose coming along nicely, but will he be as good as his teacher 🤠
common mistake is to lube the studs going into the block, NO! The only thing you should be putting on the block side of the arp stud is thread sealer if it protrudes into a water jacket, OR loctite if the manufacturer specifically calls for it or if the engine has issues with studs backing out. the ARP grease and even engine oil will expand a little inside the threads and cause the studs to push out or lose torque...not good. The ARP instructions are VERY clear that the threads in the block and the stud need to be very clean. You do want to ube the upper part of the stud threads AND just one side of the washer where the nut will ride, you do not want the washer to spin on the cylinder head as most are aluminum and will create shavings and dig into the head if it spins. do not lube your block side stud threads.
@@obxurv sealer and loctite are not lubricants. You need to make sure you clean the threads out with brake clean and then blow the air out And make sure they are dry, then you apply the thread sealer or loctite only where specified by the service manual.
Was anything changed on the head besides I think you said it was decked which is obvious right? It's really clean so I'm assuming it was hot tanked. But was that it? Port and Polish? Valve Train upgrades at all? Sorry if I missed the information. I'm learning as I go like Colton lol :)
Where are you getting your cam pick up since the gte head has the pick up on the side of the head and the ge heads doesn’t? On Alberto big boost channel he ends up drilling and welding a bung to put the sensor through.
Soo, The head goes on easier with out the stud on. It just sits and then you can drop the washers with ARP goop on both sides of washer. Drop the studs in after, because the reason for the allen on top of the studs is to help aid the install of the stud when the head is on.
nice guiding sensi, I am at the same stage as you are.. your really lucky with the valve lash clearance .. for me (lapped valves) I had 6 shims with good clearance, 5 swapped from others and I had to order 13 shims
Good job again guys! I want you to know, i don't even own a Supra but i enjoy watching your channel! I do own a 94 Celica though and wish there was someone on TH-cam with your enthusiasm and dedication to that car. Keep up the great work! Peace!
Thanks for showing this as I will be installing arp head studs and a gte gasket very soon. If using the stock cams again would you have to check clearances?
No you wouldn't but you'd need to make a note which shim & bucket came from which valve/cam lobe. This applies only to using the stock cams, shims & buckets that come out of that engine.
Second best straight six around today, after the Australia made Ford 4.0 liter Barra motor of course. Switch out the head studs and valve springs, and those monsters will spit out 600hp with ease. A few mods and 1500-2000 is entirely possible. They take a beating better than a red headed stepchild.
Hey man have u ever reshimmed the buckets? I bought a head from jdm Miami and I bought buckets separately from them so clearances are going to be all out of whack. Ddiftmotion offers shims in different sizing so ill likely go that route. Was just wondering how time consuming it is.
Thankyou for the vid but I seen you said hand tight but you were using a tool to snug. I'm sure you've done it plenty of times that it shouldn't matter
Man I been debating building a nat as well. How come I see come people drilling and welding a can sensor to the rear of the na heads? Do you not need too? Or should I get a nat block and gte head? All vvti na head have cam sensor build in?
Does the block have to be dropped to do this or does it just make it easier I don’t have a cherry picker or nothing so I would rather keep it in if I can
You should degree the cams to utilize the full profile of the cam. That would be the point of the aftermarket cam gears. You will still benefit from the cams but leaving some power behind
This is great! awesome build videos. question.. could I follow the same steps with the vvti na 2j? I believe the pistons are a little weaker but it would be fun to do this build on my vvti engine.
@@PureFunction really? Hmmn....I'm using gte 272 cams on my NA (plan to drill out a hole on the cam cover and putting a sensor their) and was recommended to do shimless because I was planning to rev to 8.5k. If not necessary then I will save some money.
You scrape the block with a razor (being careful) if you’re not matching the surface (which requires full disassembly and rebuild) this is what 90% of shops do as most opt to leave the block stock. Last 3 engines I’ve done have all been this way and zero issues.
This is super informative, especially for someone like myself who hasn’t done any engine assembly work before. Thank you! Subscribed.
Glad it helps brother!
More videos coming guys! Trying my best to pump these out
Thanks for these videos.im following closely.because I want to do the same build setup.
Nice job to both of you!!! Always cool to see Colton learning as he goes, congrats !!
fell asleep last night watching this @283 views hahah had to re-watch @1049 views now. 😂
|Great video as always. man those second tolerances close but he's lucky indeed. |
Can't wait to see the cam sensor mod/install video
This is Me Revisiting 2 Years Later 😄
great video guys loving the NA-T build
Here boy, here boy.... Gooood boy Colt.
Not a dog?
Jezz Ryan, you make me feel as old as the hills when you called Colton a “young kid”, whose coming along nicely, but will he be as good as his teacher 🤠
common mistake is to lube the studs going into the block, NO! The only thing you should be putting on the block side of the arp stud is thread sealer if it protrudes into a water jacket, OR loctite if the manufacturer specifically calls for it or if the engine has issues with studs backing out.
the ARP grease and even engine oil will expand a little inside the threads and cause the studs to push out or lose torque...not good. The ARP instructions are VERY clear that the threads in the block and the stud need to be very clean. You do want to ube the upper part of the stud threads AND just one side of the washer where the nut will ride, you do not want the washer to spin on the cylinder head as most are aluminum and will create shavings and dig into the head if it spins.
do not lube your block side stud threads.
so you are able to grease the block side of the stud with sealer or loctite?
@@obxurv sealer and loctite are not lubricants. You need to make sure you clean the threads out with brake clean and then blow the air out And make sure they are dry, then you apply the thread sealer or loctite only where specified by the service manual.
Was anything changed on the head besides I think you said it was decked which is obvious right? It's really clean so I'm assuming it was hot tanked. But was that it? Port and Polish? Valve Train upgrades at all? Sorry if I missed the information. I'm learning as I go like Colton lol :)
Where are you getting your cam pick up since the gte head has the pick up on the side of the head and the ge heads doesn’t? On Alberto big boost channel he ends up drilling and welding a bung to put the sensor through.
Pretty sure you only need cam pickups when running the stock ecu
Soo, The head goes on easier with out the stud on. It just sits and then you can drop the washers with ARP goop on both sides of washer. Drop the studs in after, because the reason for the allen on top of the studs is to help aid the install of the stud when the head is on.
i thought anything above 264 cams makes it into an interference?
nice guiding sensi, I am at the same stage as you are.. your really lucky with the valve lash clearance .. for me (lapped valves) I had 6 shims with good clearance, 5 swapped from others and I had to order 13 shims
Cool to see him learning as he goes. Dont corget some moly on the cam lobes before the covers go on.
I always put a small amount of moly lube on the washer so they stick a bit better when dropping the head on. Great job y’all’s!
Good job again guys! I want you to know, i don't even own a Supra but i enjoy watching your channel! I do own a 94 Celica though and wish there was someone on TH-cam with your enthusiasm and dedication to that car. Keep up the great work! Peace!
Do you need to do clearance check on the caps before installing these new BC cams?
With the arp head studs its best to hand tighten and back off 1 turn to prevent cracking the block between thread and water jacket
What size socket do you use for the arp nuts ?
This video help me so much thanks bro
Colton is one lucky dude 😫 great teaching
Can I use a 2jz ge head on my 1jz block?
PRP NA-T trigger kit for the coil on plug baby magnetic cherry sensor
FS MOTO makes a nicer trigger kit, can’t wait for you all to see it!
Bro what kind of ratchet is that ? Great work
Going to be doing a 2j naT build so enjoying the video plus doin tons of research how to build the strongest most reliable 600hp out of it
Thanks for showing this as I will be installing arp head studs and a gte gasket very soon. If using the stock cams again would you have to check clearances?
No you wouldn't but you'd need to make a note which shim & bucket came from which valve/cam lobe. This applies only to using the stock cams, shims & buckets that come out of that engine.
@@DynamicEvolved got it thanks👍
I appreciate you taking the time to make a video, but did you read the ARP instructions because you have mixed up a few things here.
How to make turbo line ?
Did you upgrade your springs and retainers or did you keep the stock ones?
He opted to leave his stock
@@PureFunction that wont bbe an issue right
Second best straight six around today, after the Australia made Ford 4.0 liter Barra motor of course. Switch out the head studs and valve springs, and those monsters will spit out 600hp with ease. A few mods and 1500-2000 is entirely possible. They take a beating better than a red headed stepchild.
Awesome video. Colton hurry the F up!
Yeah hurry up
Colton!!!
Hey man have u ever reshimmed the buckets? I bought a head from jdm Miami and I bought buckets separately from them so clearances are going to be all out of whack. Ddiftmotion offers shims in different sizing so ill likely go that route. Was just wondering how time consuming it is.
I’m not a mechanic but this was an informative video. Learned stuff I’ll never apply. +1
Thankyou for the vid but I seen you said hand tight but you were using a tool to snug. I'm sure you've done it plenty of times that it shouldn't matter
,,,👏👏👏from 🇺🇦
Man I been debating building a nat as well. How come I see come people drilling and welding a can sensor to the rear of the na heads? Do you not need too? Or should I get a nat block and gte head? All vvti na head have cam sensor build in?
Nice vid. Put Molly lube on the head where the washers sit. It'll keep the washers in place and help give alittle more accurate torque.
Is it the same procedure with the 1jz ge, I’d like to do the same with my 1jz
This definitely deserves a thumb’s up & like!
Seems it would be easier to put head on block first then washers and then drop head studs in with nut on, alrdy lubed
Does the block have to be dropped to do this or does it just make it easier I don’t have a cherry picker or nothing so I would rather keep it in if I can
Do you have to drop the whole thing for this or could you just keep it in I don’t have a cherry picker or nun
just came from tictok and immediately subscribed great channel
Doesn't the distributor give cam and crank signals?
Why can't that be me instead! I want to learn how to build my jz
Awesome video guys very informative as I am gonna be doin a head gasket soon
Getting famous off of comments day 243, so I can live the dream, live every day like it’s your last🤙🚀🚀
You should degree the cams to utilize the full profile of the cam. That would be the point of the aftermarket cam gears. You will still benefit from the cams but leaving some power behind
did you use a straight edge to check stud level...ie height consistency
This is great! awesome build videos. question.. could I follow the same steps with the vvti na 2j?
I believe the pistons are a little weaker but it would be fun to do this build on my vvti engine.
Golf 👏...lol...
Men at Work....that movie is a classic
Run the distributor. The cam/crank sensors are in that.
Going for a much cleaner look! 😎
@@PureFunction GTE VVTi 36-2 trigger wheel, Golebys trigger kit for the top end, should be good. That’s what I’m doing.
@@bdub215 were using the FS moto setup (utilizing the 32-2 gear also)
Man I appreciate your videos on the GE🙏🏾
Love this video love seeing his learn makes this vid way more informative
Question do you need a programable ecu to run these cams?
love the videos but please use different music..
Are those 2jzge head bolts or are thy 2jzgte bolts?
3:37 lmaoooo i used to live 10 mins away from yall
would you be able to show if someone does go with a vvti head instead?
This is very informative, I love your videos. And this series has definitely helped me so far with my na-t build. Thank you so much
Your a badass. Super high energy and passion 👍🏼
Any regrets going with the 272’s?
Shoutout Colton, I'm proud of you.
I"m doing a NA-T build myself. Why not go shimless bucket right out the door?Especially with those cams
I ran shined buckets for 5 years with BC 272 with no issues. If shimmed right you should have no issues
@@PureFunction really? Hmmn....I'm using gte 272 cams on my NA (plan to drill out a hole on the cam cover and putting a sensor their) and was recommended to do shimless because I was planning to rev to 8.5k. If not necessary then I will save some money.
*feeler gauge
What song at 8:00
Did arp correct the washers? It's been a while but irrc they were under size and would bite into the head.
Yes they finally fixed it 5-6 years ago.
@@PureFunction great. Thanks a lot. Keep up the amazing content brother. Long time fan.
Head mating surfaces is not clean......
You scrape the block with a razor (being careful) if you’re not matching the surface (which requires full disassembly and rebuild) this is what 90% of shops do as most opt to leave the block stock.
Last 3 engines I’ve done have all been this way and zero issues.
siiick!
Your the 2jz godfather 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
ahh ....
Great video 🤙🏻
Thanks brother
👍💪💯
Is this the vvti camed engine or non?