AND per his closing statement "so does synthetic oil cause oil leaks in older engines? well not in the case of my 45 year old tractor. that was a sample size of one." he understands this is just one experiment and is simply giving you his experience with a detailed list of events. basically, scientific experiments because he is doing the same steps that are required for one.
Main reason I stop watching other videos is when another project farm pops up. I know I'm about to learn something and it will not be a waste of time! Man, the effort put into making these vids is phenomenal!!!
Actually I enjoyed seeing the mowing part. Living in the city how many people do you think have seen how they use tractor to do it. Always enjoy the video. Let's compare the drones taking the video please.
The only true TH-camr who doesn’t click bait actually sees people’s comments ideas and does them. It may take him awhile but he does see them and comments on them thanks for being such a great TH-camr!
@@ProjectFarm I like to know as i'm wondering where Rotella stands on the list (in the competition) of all the oils that where tested.One more thing Project Farm if i may advise....can you do a list on a big white board (to make it really clear to us viewers) of all the oils you did and show which oil is the best for friction,heat evapourating process and cold flow test in order as they're all different and some are better in the winter than others but fail on the evap test.So viewers can determine what oil to use if eg. If they live in freezing temp,hot temps and also wants to know the best anti wear protection for the summer and for the winter.Good idea? P.S Getting close to the 1M subs mate.Respect from the UK.
Tardeli costantini hello, but do theu still sell HOLTS , car products, Used to see them when I was a youngster, my dad even used to use some of them,CHEERS FROM NJ...USA. 🏴🏴🏴🇬🇧🇺🇸
What I have been told is that Synthetic oil doesn’t attack the engine seals, but instead it cleans up any engine sludge which been helping poor seals from leaking. Great video!
@@BicBones yes, also the particle size is just about all the same, except the additives of course. Conventional oil varies in particle size. Maybe high quality oil removes the sludge, which is helping to seal the engine, thus causing a leak.
Yes, exactly. It makes leaks worse; I'm not sure if it's just due to being synthetic, or simply a thinner base stock(the 5W vs 15W part). I will say in my experience, with 7.3 IDIs... If you've got a typical older engine with weeping seals - a few drops here and there, not enough to worry about - on 15W40... do NOT use 5W40 synthetic! It's going to start leaking massively. On the other hand, if you've resealed the motor... go ahead! It'll be fine.
"I'm going to put the filter media in a press to squeeze the oil out" *Expects a professional hydraulic press of some sort* ... it's a vice with a couple 2x4's... Keeping it real. This is why I subscribed!
@@ProjectFarm Hi I've been working in the automobile business and I have 19years as a mechanic and I never heard of synthetic oil causing leaks unless they lower viscosity.
These oil leaks were an excuse used by oil companies back in the late 60’s & 70’s to keep people from switching over to synthetic, early Mobil 1 was the blamed oil. Most of the time, I found that leaks were already present, and the synthetic oil would find the path of least resistance, thus creating an oil leak that was not noticed prior by the owner or the mechanic
@@ProjectFarm Can you review Amalie engine oil either the high mileage or full synthetic blend compared to some of your top brands? Royal Purple, Amsoil, Penzoil?
After working for over 40 years on all types of vehicles and support equipment (generators and air compressors) I've learned that synthetic oil use has caused leaks to start on equipment but it is not because the oil damages any component or seals; the reason these leaks start is that synthetic oils have a higher detergent content and they clean up all the dried up gunk between the seals and the shafts. these deposits are built up over years of use and they get caked on to the seals, once the synthetic oil cleans this mess up the hardened seals are not able to keep the oil in the assemblies. So the answer is NO, synthetic oil does not cause leaks, worn seals/shafts do.
Do modern synthetics contain newer detergents that also eat up older gasket and seal material in the same way a lot of older engines don't like ethanol fuel?
@@ProjectFarm Why do you have large fields of wild grass and brush? I'm confused. Wouldn't this attract a lot of insects? Does livestock go out there? And those aren't alfalfa fields, are they? No offense, but this is what my family referred to as a hillbilly farm or a rich city slicker farm for recreation and dirt bikes etc. And yeah, they were kill joys. Haha It doesn't seem like the most ideal land management. If they are wild meadows which are only cut ocassionaly, do you spray for insects? The mosquitos this would attract would annoy the hell out of me. I'm itching just looking at it.
It may sound strange to some people , but l actually felt a peace come over me as l watched the tractor shredding the weeds and grass. I guess it's because it brought back memories of my granpa on a farm tractor working the land. I was a boy and enjoyed those long, peaceful days, sitting under the huge oak tree watching the tractor go by. Thanks Project Farm . I really enjoy your videos, extremely informative. God bless.
You’ve taught me a lot more than anyone else ever could about how an engine works, what to use and what not to use and just about life in general. Thanks for teaching us all something.
He goes farther in depth that almost anyone else I've watched. I've watched a lot of other tool review channels and while they cover some details they don't actually do the tests I see done on this channel. Not only that a lot of it is somewhat contrary to what they said before. Not on this channel. Strait to the point and i don't see any bias at all. The winner is the winner. I think the only guy who goes into extreme detail is AvE but he tests things slightly different. But that being said... only 1 guy goes into more detail, out of the dozens out there... this channel is top quality stuff 👌 👏 I've watched nearly every video as they are released. These teats help me determine where to spend my hard earned money and it also saves me a lot of stress from dealing with sub par tools/equipment that would have otherwise wasted my time.
I love your videos. Very informative and to the point. Being a professional automotive technician for 40 yrs , Its nice to see someone who actually understand and takes the time to explain whats going on, an art thats lost in this day and age. With that being said, my personal 86 F250 6.9 Diesel always used a qt of oil every 500-750 miles. Oil changes done religiously at 3K. When I switched to the exact synthetic you used in this video, the truck would use 1 qt of oil every 250-300 miles. Never leaked any. After 3K miles , and 10 qts of oil added , I switched back to conventional oil and it went back to the same 1 qt every 500-750 miles. I did not notice any MPG improvement or changes in power when using the synthetic . Truck had 200K at that time. Keep up with the great videos !!
They were the best 👌 I didn't know they would just set there I've got to get 1 now thanks for all of your videos and time I tell so many people to watch your videos no bs and hear exactly what u came for !! Every time!!!
My experience as a mechanic: Typically, in a well maintained, or newer, or low miles/hours, or engine that started using synthetic oil early in its life, won't leak at all. Older engines, or ones with high mileage and have never used synthetic almost always leak when switching to it. Synthetic oil itself doesn't cause leaks, it simply exposes already bad seals that the conventional oil couldn't sleep through. Once you change the seals, the leaks stop. Great video as always! I especially liked the T4 and T6 comparison, thank you
I agree. The oil must have lower viscocity compared vith any old oils. That is the reason it will leak easier. That tractor does not have worn zimmers.
My 1970 Massey 165 69 303 massey oliver super 88 99 silverado john deere 1010 doesn't leak t6 some of this equipment is over 50 years old Put it this way if the engine has bad leaky seals it gonna leak . I use t6 in almost all my equipment diesel and gasoline aside from my Detroit 2 strokes .
I bought an '05 crown vic that did not leak, i was adamant about no leaks... Gave it a fully synthetic change with expensive stuff. Wix filter and all.. Within 800-1000 miles she was leaking from the pan gasket half the way aroung plus other areas! SO PISSED!! Its a mint(meh nearly for 150k) Learning the hard way sure sucks! At least ill never forget the lesson.omg
Syntetic oil is not the primary cause of leaks. It just wash away slug from the seals and if seal are already old and lost its elasticity or damaged - it will leak. Also modern syntetic engine oils will darken faster than mineral oils, just because they washing better... just my opinion. Also sorry for broken english and maybe typos.
TH-camrs who test Oil issues in their old tractor by cutting weeds and hay on ~20 acres: Zero Project Farm: "seemed like a logical, good test". Thanks for your incredible work!
High quality synthetic oil has anti-sludge additives that can sometimes open old paths that were closed by dried sludge causing a leak. But this means that the seal was probably bad and due for replacement.
Dead-on with that one. Also, thought, as was done in this video, you can safely go to a lighter oil and still receive better protection with a full synthetic oil, and thinner oil doesn’t need as large of a gap to get a leak going.
I was taught the synthetic has a smaller molecular structure and that is what would cause the leak. If I also add in what Vlado T said and think about gaskets and seals being made stronger now. That really makes sense why leaks would've happened in the past and dot now
Never mind friends with, I’d love to BE this guy. All that land and toys to play with, and making videos about things that up til recently, I thought I was the only person this interested in lol.
As everyone is saying - excellent, instructive videos and experiments with no fluff or wasted time. Good work. (I've converted a dozen cars and motorcycles to synthetic at low to very high mileages and no leaks that weren't already there)
I am far from a professional, however work in the automotive industry. I like the video. The general consistence on synthetic oils is they do not cause leaks. Leaks observed after switching from a conventional to a synthetic oil are results of the detergents and additive package cleaning up sludge and deposits with in the engine. This added to the fact that synthetic oils are designed to flow better results in existing small leaks to become more obvious.
I think also this issue was a lot more common in the 80s when people were just starting to try synthetic oil, in cars that already had a few miles on them. Back then everything had a rear main seal leak after 75k miles!😂
Sure, the car had leaks with conventional oil, it's just that it had a lot more deposits that clogged the holes, so you couldn't see the leaks. With syntetic you're just removing those deposits, and then leaks can occur.
I am addicted to @Project Farms videos as the testing results are quantitative, factual, and not interpretational. The hard work and detail in the videos is very impressive. Great work and look forward to watching more videos. Thanks!
when I switched to synthetic oil on my 1963 KMZ (Dnepr) K750M, it did start to leak oil around the alternator, but not because the oil eat or destroyed the seal, but because it worked so well with its anti sludge properties, that the old gunked up oil around the old seal (just one big o-ring) was removes, but after replacing that seal, my engine works like a charm :P (the old seal was dry and had no elasticity left)
That makes complete sense. The only time I had a negative effect with synthetic oils was on my Old 93 Jeep 4.0 H.O. Was stuck out in the Trees and she started to burn oil which it never has done and knock with Amsoil 10-30. The old flat tapper camshaft didn’t like it. I switched back to shell and little STP and now 4 years later she’s started to get a Tired out with 230k Jeep miles on her. Time for a rebuild.
@@joelkelly169 A lot of old things were very crummy back in the day as well. We just have a survivor ship bias because only the good old things are still around in use and the crummy ones are in the dump.
On my 36+ years old Audi the synthetic oil didn't start a leak, also when switching from partially to 100% synthetic on my 15 years old BMW it didn't start any leaks! Keep the good video coming mate, I love your videos.
Both cars are way to young. "Old" means in regards to possible sealing issues due to synthetic oil - pre WWII ans slightly after... till the 1960s max.
@@Slazlo-Brovnik 30 years is considered antique in the car world. Different engine compression and material plus different seals are used since the 80s - 90s and up to 2000 cars have changed alot. For this type of test it doesn't need to be an engine from the 60s-
@@fragglefknrock7568 Sorry - but ... no. The question is not if a car of this and that age is considered "antique" or not, this is just a word. The question is why exactly synthetic oil might be a problem. And that is the case because of some seal-materials used in older cars. These seals can be damaged by synthetic oil. I could go a bit more in the details here but unfortunately I do not know the english technical terms for the materials etc. in question (I am German). Basically the design features in question have been in use prior WWII and maybe a bit after that. More or less those seals (and some other design aspects such as the absence of an oil-filter) are not in use anymore since the early 60s. Of course stuff changed from 80s -90s to today, but for the question at hand that does not matter - the important change was done way before that. So again: Regarding the question "How old must an engine be, so that synthetic oil may be harmful to it" the answer is: It must be build prior ca. 1965. Okay, there is ONE possible issue with that statement, and that is: I am talking about European engines. It may be that in the US those older designs where used longer. But I doubt that. And even if: Not into the 80s. And BTW: Project Farms test just kinda supports my statement, don't you think?
So, synthetic motor oils that cause “leaks” are generally from the effectiveness of synthetics cleaning varnish/gel on neglected engines. Any wear or leaks may have just been masked. Also, still would love to see synthetic show-down on the new 0w-16 Toyota/Honda/Mobil one stuff and same for 0w-20 OEM oil from the Japanese imports compared to each other and high ends like valvoline advanced syn, penzoil ultra platinum, amsoil etc
That is not entirely true. Seal polymers change volume depending on the chemicals that are exposed to. Synthetic oil tend to swell seals less than mineral oil. For this reason some suppliers add "seal swellers" to the oil so the problem is completely gone. This is an issue that was relevant 30 years ago. Modern seals tend to behave better with synthetic oils.
Back in the 80s,i chanced the braking fluid,for a race motor bike(new) The seal were all worn out the next day,so all the brake fluid(synth) was on the floor.
This was very interesting. I just watched this with our mobile 1 engineer and reliability department at a gold mine in northern Ontario. We thought it was great, thanks
Man, I’ve always appreciated this channel for the large amount of unbiased detailed information. But after watching this, there is even MORE detailed information and facts that I have never considered. Project Farm has been and always will be the most awesome TH-cam channels out there. Thank you.
@@ProjectFarm , I couldn't agree more with Jimmy. I don't know if you follow Shanna Simmons ( research engineer for Shell Oil) on TH-cam. I think you will find her results pretty close to yours.
Would love to see an oil filter comparison test like Fram, Motorcraft, Wix, Napa Gold, AC Delco, Purolator, STP, Mopar. Always love watching product comparisons. Also notice that tractor did a wheelie(awesome)!
You're the only youtuber I turn my adblocker off for. Thank you for all you do! I know this takes a lot of time and money and I appreciate it. I dont have any video recommendations because you've been so good at picking up the ones I would want to see but didn't even realize I wanted to see it until you did it!
A customer of mine in Owasso, OK, has a Ford Powerstroke Diesel, 7.3L with over 325,000 miles; he began using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel (DME) at 200,000 miles and still no leaks. Another very happy end-user. Thanks Scott.
When you opened that oil filter I saw a large chunk of metal, thought "Oh Man your tractor is toast!" Turned out to be a chunk of dust on my laptop screen. Please keep these great videos coming!
Old radial aircraft engines were expected to have chunks every oil change. 1-2mm isn't uncommon. Granted, those have a stack of mesh screens, not actual paper material.
Synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth. Conventional oil tends to have far fewer detergents and dispersants than synthetic oil, and it also tends to contain more impurities. This means that conventional oil will be both more susceptible to sludge buildup and less capable of removing said sludge and keeping it suspended in the oil to be removed by the filter. Conventional oil is also more volatile than synthetic oil of the same viscosity, which means that as the conventional oil is heated the "lighter" components of the oil are boiled away leaving behind a thicker oil. This happens to some degree with synthetic oil as well, but as you could see from the oil pour test it has a much greater impact on the conventional oil's viscosity. This thickening phenomenon is one of the reasons why they have you change your oil at regular intervals, and why your vehicle's owner's manual says to change it more often if you put your vehicle through more heavy duty use cases, like towing or racing, since your engine will run hotter for longer in those uses. Synthetic oil's resistance to this thermal breakdown is one of the reasons you can go longer between oil changes when using synthetic oil. Putting all of this together, an engine running conventional oil will have more sludge buildup and the oil will get thicker the longer it is in the engine. These two things work together to mask any marginal oil seals that are on their way out and would otherwise be leaking. Once you make the switch to synthetic oil the extra detergents help clean the sludge out and the "thinner" synthetic oil will begin to seep out through the areas that were previously plugged with sludge, exposing the bad seals. If the engine had been somewhat neglected before the switch to synthetic and hadn't been getting oil changes on time, or if it was operated in particularly wet environments (water in the oil is one of the sources of sludge), then the amount of leaking after the switch can be significant. If, however, the vehicle was well maintained with on time oil changes at the appropriate intervals for your use case, then the engine likely won't exhibit any leaks when switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil.
@@EgorKaskader More or less, yes. If you switch from conventional to synthetic oil (keeping the same viscosity) and start noticing leaks that weren't there before the switch, then you likely have oil seals that were going bad, but too much sludge had built up in the worn areas to allow much oil to leak out before the extra detergents in the synthetic oil cleaned out the sludge. If this is the case, then the oil seals are likely to need replacement, though sometimes it's the shaft the seal rides on that is worn or scratched and that actually needs to be replaced. Either problem though could have been masked by sludge buildup.
@@r.j.bedore9884 In my experience, it's not so much sludge buildup as probably the thinner viscosity you 'get' with typical synthetic - going from 15w40 conventional to 5w40 synthetic, for instance. I did try it on a slightly weeping engine(very typical, and something that would work for years this way) and, well, those leaks became *massive*. After losing two quarts in a couple hundred miles, I threw in some Lucas to thicken it up, changed the oil back to conventional at like 3K miles, and the oil leaks dropped back to a 'nominal' level... and I'm pretty sure that engine is still in working shape to this day. (on a freshly-rebuilt engine with new seals, I ran synthetic with no noticable leaks at all)
kinda wrote a huge oxymoron, " synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth...if, however, the vehicle was well maintained..." which is it ? switching to a synthetic oil in an engine that doesn't leak because of sludge build up really doesn't matter, the detergents can clean up a little but are more meant to maintain a clean engine by stopping sludge before it starts, not even the solvents in an engine flush would clean out sludge build up. Perhaps more than synthetic oil but not enough to unclog a leaky seal, under the sludge is varnish that would need walnut blasting to remove.
With all you've done to those engines during every episode, you make engine work look a lot more simple and a lot less intimidating than i originally thought. You explain things very well
I have been using synthetics since I got my drivers licence back in 1976, Back when Mobil 1 was about the only synthetic oil out there. Back then everyone said don't use it your engine will leak oil and your bearings will go bad, well none of that happened. In 79 I was in the U.S.A.F. stationed in northern Main after a blizzard and temps well below -35F my jeep with Mobil 1 in it was the only car in the barracks parking lot that started.
Eugene Tuorto Just a better breed of oil from the beginning. Thanks for sharing this, I didn’t know that we’d had synthetics commercially available since the ‘70s.
@@Cjbarker2 Mobil 1 used to have a commercial with a famous football player trying to hold the end of a screw driver dipped in Mobil 1 , I will have to see if I can find it on YT.
I love this channel. Thanks for the tip on "Engine Restore." My 25 year old Kubota is now starting up almost immediately. I've also been running T-6 in it for a couple of years with no leaks.
@@ProjectFarm there is no way synthetic oil can cause a leak. Maybe its cleaning out the dirt then it starts leaking but not on a good engine. I only use synthetic. I put it in lawn mower, car. Motor bike, honda gx engine, it dosnt have anything in it to damage seals or any other parts but it is moor resistant to heating and takes longer to break down. Anyway great video as usual i love what your doing keep using synthetic in that tractor👍 big thumbs up👍
Just discovered your channel. It is first-class in every way. About 18 months ago I bought a project truck 94 F250 with7.3 IDI engine. I bought it because it ran so strong. First I changed all the fluids not knowing what kind of oil was used in it before. From the time I owned it until I got the time to start working on it, I noticed it didn't have a leak of anything. First I changed the oil and went to a synthetic. Since then I have spent $$$ on body and paint. Though not many miles were put on the truck I noticed a small leak in time out of the rear seal. I put a quality stop leak additive in it but it has not stopped the leak. After seeing this video and reading the comments I now understand how the new oil may have created the leak. I've also noticed a small seeping of the valve cover gaskets that wasn't there before. I will have the repairs done because I can't stand any leaks in any of my cars. Now, I'm wondering to avoid any new leaks after the repairs should I go back to conventional oil? I don't want to create any new leaks that are not there now? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. PS there is no wonder why your channel is doing so well. Your stats are off the hook. Your hard work has really paid off. Good for you.
I really love how utilitarian your channel is, and it’s filmed very well too. I must admit I’ve taken inspiration from you while getting my own channel going. Thanks for your awesome content!
Cold weather start protection is really about how quickly the oil gets pumped through the engine, oils with a lower viscosity will always win this test. Years back I used the original Mobile 1 0w-40 in a Rover M16 engine comparing to 15w-40 or 10w-40 (Castor GTX or Duckhams Q ). When using Mobile 1 the valve gear noise would be reduced greatly almost instantly on a cold start, but with the thicker oils there would be a perceptible time delay before the oil reached the hydraulic lifters and camshaft.
Can we appreciate the patience of this guy? Most comparison videos are done in 1 day. This guy puts days and this one probably well over a month. Awesome job!
I always like your testing, very impressive and thoughtful. I started using synthetic oils in the late '70s, Mobil 1. That was because of military experience with them in jets. The "leaks" are generally from older motors, that have used conventional oils and there is "sludge" build up. This generally collects in recessed areas of seals. Due to the improved detergent action of syn-oils, and ability to flow freely, the gunk that was actually acting like a plug gets cleaned out and that is the leak source. Mobil had a great series of informative articles that compared natural and syn oils after very high mileage and hard service uses (taxis) and compared cleaning actions. You may be able to find those. Didn't expect tractor to leak, however get an old Ford with 300k on it and try the same test with a normal 3000 mile test, you may see something there Keep up the tests, really enjoyable, like AvE and Big Clive
Ah great I tried T6 in a 150k 5.8L Windsor engine and it runs good but burns a bit. Back to the Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w-30 I reckon, hopefully that'll pack some sludge back in there
@@KingAdrock420 I am thinking back a long time ago, cork gaskets and Permatex, and Pennzoil. Lots of build up. Mobil did tests and synthetic oil had superior cleaning and they did not reccomend on high time motors. They even advertised you could run that oil for a year, just replace the filter at recommended intervals and top up the oil. I did that on my Toyota , a 1977 Corolla and drove the snot out of it. I had an oil temp gauge too and it ran cooler, lower friction?
This “myth” has never stopped me from using synthetic in anything. Synthetic is pretty much always better than regular oil so I try to take advantage of that
Always go synthetic it makes a huge difference. I even use synthetic in my commercial lawn mowers and snowblowers, it’s amazing how much longer the oil stays a light amber color. When I would use conventional sae 30 it would turn black in 1 day or less. Also much easier cold starts when the temps are low in spring and fall on the larger engines on the zero turns. Used to kill batteries cranking in the morning start at least once a week on something, now never.
It lasts longer thats it.if you change your oil often there is no need for it.you can change the oil on 12k km intervals with syntetic. I use both depending on the budget.you can switch from syntetic to regular without any harm to an engine..i tested it since 25yrs allways done it on all of my engines
This is the way you do videos on TH-cam. Informative, highly interesting and no advertisements. Well spoken, volume, tone and the ability to keep the viewer's attention. A well done series, that I subscribed to long ago due to content.
I've had more oil leak out of my 48 8N since I switched to synthetic oil. I think this is because the synthetic oil has allowed some of the old sludge to move on and opened an already leaky seal. Love your videos and watch religiously. You're truly helping people.
OMG! I've not watched this video yet and I will, but I'm going to comment about this FIRST! YES!! OMG YES............................... and worse! And it can cause engine rattles, BUT! that's in engines that have lots of MILES on conventional oils, I had TWO disasters in two different cars in the same time frame, one was a Nissan pickup and one was a Chrysler Lebaron , both with over 100,000 miles on them. Here is what happened. I was into researching motor oil for a popular motorcycle forum and I got caught up in the marking hype of the Synthetic oil and the EXTENDED oil changes, with the regular oil filter interval changes, change the oil once in between oil changes, and top of the oil. Two of my own vehicles. So, I bought the famed Mobil-1 and changed the oil in both vehicles thinking I had did something GREAT! and them came the mid filter oil change and that went well, so the wife and I drive ON! well then came the actual oil changes in both and that went well but the oil looked a LOT darker then I expected, so we drive on. Well, in a couple of thousand miles on the Chrysler and the wife comes and informs me her car SOUNDS AWFUL and is rattling like crazy!!! so I go out and check the oil level, its fine! I start it up and it sounded like it was coming apart, not knocking but but like a couple hands full of boxed end wrenches was left inside each valve cover!!! My thought was the SYNTHETIC OIL did something, and it did. I drained out the oil removed the the oil filter, went to the parts store, bought 5 quarts of conventional motor oil and a new oil filter put it in the car and started it up, IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS READY FOR THE JUNK YARD!!!!! I let it set and idle for maybe 20 minutes, and the oil pressure gauge showed NORMAL oil pressure. I decided to take it for a gentle drive and about 30 minutes into the drive it still sounded bad, but it wasn't as bad. Over the next several weeks of normal use it got a little quieter and quieter, in a couple of months the noisy reduced to so slight ticks, to finely near normal. But, during this time the Nissan pickup was only a couple of weeks behind the switch to Synthetic oil, and the EXACT same thing happened to it!, and I did the exact same thing to cure it, I thought I had ruined both engines. Now, to the WHY and to the why the change to synthetic oil on high mileage engines can cause oil leaks. In the early days of motor oils it was believed that the crude oil was from dinosaur remains, will now know now that that's NOT true at oil, but for the purpose here I'll refer to it as Dino oil. The conventional oils is WAY better these days than in the days of old, BUT! they can still leave what I call "Dino Plating" in an engine, not SLUDGE, but a golden varnish color. This plating grows and presses in against seal lips at the shafts and it also plates the internal edges of the gaskets. As the shafts at the seals and the seals wear the plating grows and fills in the space, it also crowds and fills in in between all the moving metal parts inside the engine, more wear, more room for dino plating growth, the dino plating on the gasket edges plates them enough so that they dry out and start to rot. Now, lets say this has been happening for say 180,000 miles and we get the idea to change to a Synthetic oil, this oil doesn't have anything in to produce this dino plating and without that its actually starts to break what plating is in the engine down and cleaning it out. Well, this wonderful running engine and all its parts has formed the PERFECT union with the dino plating sense it conception, now that the rotten gaskets are getting exposed to this new oil and in a far less condition to control oil leakage by themselves!, and the lips of the oil seals that had been crowded with the dino plating and made room for loses their sealing position and starts to leak and the formally crowded metal parts have this NEW found space and they start to rattle. My older brother was a Firestone store manager for 25 years and they STOPPED doing synthetic oil conversions on higher mileage engines do to all the FALL OUT (problems) from doing it, leaks and rattles!!! The dino plating comes from the remaining tars and paraffin's that smoke and burn off and then collect inside the engine, these can't be gotten completely out of the oil via normal refining! However seeing how synthetic oil is molecular-ly dismantled and the crude (I call) oily's are collected, then re-joint into new molecular chains that didn't exist in nature before (making it synthetic) means that 100% of the tars and paraffin's are taken out (actually left out). Will it do this in your engine? how many miles is on it? how much dino plating has the years of conventional oil left in it? its a roll of the dice. So, make your own choice, but for me if its an older engine with considerable miles on it that's running good for its age, I'll let the sleeping dog lie, its already got a happy internal union inside, if its happy I'm happy! Thanks for all your video's
Your tractor is in Great shape for its age. You really take care of your equipment. Thank you for all your time and effort in these videos. We all appreciate you!
i think this is one of those really old wive's tales now. if i remember right, early synthetic oil would leak, but they very quickly added some additives to help "swell" the seals on cars so it's not a problem switching over. thanks for the great videos
Just wanted to share my experience switching to synthetic oils. I own two motorcycles each of which are nearly 40 years old. I'm sure they've both been using conventional oil their whole lives. When I got them I switched to synthetic. In fact, I use Shell Rotella T6 because it meets the JASO-MA specification. I've never had issues with either bikes consuming oil, or leaking. I also use synthetic oil on both of my cars. No issues there either. And I'm willing to bet both of my cars spent most of their lives on conventional oil before I purchased them as well. Heck, I even use synthetic oil in my lawn mower, and it's never given me issues either. Synthetic oil does not cause issues. Skipping oil changes causes issues. I will always use synthetic oil in all my motors.
I have not had any issues with synthetic oil either heck i didn't change the oil for 5 years ran up 100,000 miles. Still no issue only changed the oil when I snapped the timing belt so did a whole head rebuild that was fun..... I upgraded the oil to one that was slightly thicker. Still no issues today cars hitting 200k miles. It's a renault too... df. guess every car is different right?
I used to take care of a fleet of buses. We used Shell Rotella 15w40. One day the powers to be ordered synthetic oil that was supposed to be the equivalent to the Rotella. I said we don't want to go there. They said to use it. Well we did. Lost one engine and three others took up smoking. Needless to say the powers to be decided that I was right. Synthetic has its place but there are some applications that it doesn't fit. I use the T4 in everything, and I mean everything. From my tractor to the riding mower. Some have argued with me but, seeing is believing. Seen synthetics used in the wrong application and the damage done. Never seen one cause seals to leak though. Great videos. Thanks for sharing.
With any research, this is a myth; the reverse is actually true, as older synthetic oils were made on different processes, that resulted in a more corrosive oil. But newer production processes have been refined to produce far less corrosive synthetic oils. If anything, a few rounds of modern synthetic oil in an old engine can reveal previously existing leaks that a few larger particles out of the refined oil had previously clogged.
Which I believe still causes it to leak when it hadn't before, correct? It may not be the cause of the leak directly, but it still leaks with synthetic oil in it.
I've heard that conventional oil will leave deposits much more easily and that new synthetic oil will clean out there gunk exposing the bad seal that had been there to begin with.
Yup correct, I think i may have made the suggestion for this video so it's awesome he's done it. I changed a few times on my 2002 Acura RSX between Mobil 1 full synthetic and regular mobil 1 and have not run into any issues. Car had 180k miles before i sold it and had zero leaks.
Sir, I just recently switch to synthetic in my 2003 Matrix. I was extremely nervous. Watching TH-cam videos discouraging the switch. But I did about a 1,000 miles ago. So far so good 👍🏼. The Matrix has over 212,000 miles on it.
Every vehicle I have ever had I have switched to synthetic as soon as the manufacturer warranty run out on the vehicle and I have never had an oil related issue with any motor of any vehicle I have owned
Seems like it really depends how often the engine has been serviced. Regularly maintained engines show almost no issues when swapping to synthetic, poorly maintained ones on the other hand start leaking and smoking pretty soon after.
Great video, you put so much work into each one, serious respect! I think synthetic oil is perfectly fine to use, in the heavy equipment industry we use synthetic (sometimes T6 actually) in everything including old equipment with tens of thousands of hours.
It really is crazy how much work he does for each video (some more than others of coarse) and the money he lays out is crazy. I’m positive in many of his vids he looses money.
Ester based actually should do the opposite given it swolles the gaskets and rubber, it's more sticky.... the only reason for it to make a leak is if the chemistry of the rubber is incompatible or the gaskets
This channel should have 5 million subs. These are the most controlled test of consumer products on the market. You've saved everyone a ton of money over the years on buying snake oil.
Regardless of this videos age and the rest, you’re relentless and undervalued. More lay testing like this in more fields is going to revolutionize quality and advertising, expose those with lesser quality products and hide the fact with flashy colors on a bottle.
Another great! I have to agree with some of the comments in regards to leaks. I feel it doesn't hurt any seals. It will clean better, arguably, and cause some more weeping around old seals and gaskets. I believe the molecular structure is smaller as well. Like air vs helium in a balloon, the helium leaks quicker thru the permeable rubber vs the straight air, right. I have also been told that after a while the leaks will slow because the synthetic oil will condition the seals and gaskets. However I have never witnessed this to be accurate because if I have a leak it drives me nut and I have to repair it. Wow that tractor is sweet! What a work horse! Keep doing what your doing and don't part with that tractor. the new ones are a nightmare! Awesome
loved the video! i want to put synthetic into my gf's CRV which already has a few minor leaks so would have to fix those first, i switched my poor running yardman (2001) lawn tractor to synthetic, woa what a difference!!! (and no leaks) i went from doing my lawn, needing to fill up a second time, to doing my lawn 3 or 4 times in one tank! now granted i have no idea how long it was that the previous oil sat in that poor engine but just for starting purposes, the synthetic made it start sooo easy!
I’ve been watching your channel for some time now, and I love all the new equipment. New freezer, new burners for heating the oils, and awesome drone footage.
Great video! I buy all kinds of old vehicles that have been sitting and I revive them and keep them going. I always change oil as a start to any of them and usually run a cheaper conventional oil first then switch to a good quality synthetic after a few hundred miles. I've never seen a leak start from synthetic oil. Even the other day I asked for an oil change kit as my local parts store and the guy behind the counter asked if I'd always used synthetic in it. First time I was ever asked that. He said they can cause leaks and honestly I'd never heard that before. I told him I'll take the risk based on my years of the same routine! Thanks for this video!
I've been watching your channel for years now, I'm beyond impressed with your improvements to you testing methods. While still crude from time to time, I'm amazed with your continued perseverance to strive for better and more accurate data. Keep doing what you're doing boss. Just remember, never sell out, real data is far more valuable for the people that you started this for. If you do, I understand, but remember what that means.
I purchased a 1960 Buick Electra with the 401 CID engine. It has 22,000 original miles and is like brand new. I installed Mobil I engine oil in it and have never had any problems with either leaking or oil consumption.
People should take notes on how he does videos.
Straight and to the point, no clickbait or unnecessary talking to fill time. Thank you.
AND per his closing statement "so does synthetic oil cause oil leaks in older engines? well not in the case of my 45 year old tractor. that was a sample size of one." he understands this is just one experiment and is simply giving you his experience with a detailed list of events. basically, scientific experiments because he is doing the same steps that are required for one.
Main reason I stop watching other videos is when another project farm pops up. I know I'm about to learn something and it will not be a waste of time! Man, the effort put into making these vids is phenomenal!!!
I do love his style... But 5min of mowing certainly couldn't be considered filler lol
Actually I enjoyed seeing the mowing part. Living in the city how many people do you think have seen how they use tractor to do it. Always enjoy the video. Let's compare the drones taking the video please.
K N Plus the way that he pours oil into the beakers,
.. no spill☝️ even to the edge
The only true TH-camr who doesn’t click bait actually sees people’s comments ideas and does them. It may take him awhile but he does see them and comments on them thanks for being such a great TH-camr!
Thank you very much!!
@@ProjectFarm Respect is where respect is due.
@@ProjectFarm I like to know as i'm wondering where Rotella stands on the list (in the competition) of all the oils that where tested.One more thing Project Farm if i may advise....can you do a list on a big white board (to make it really clear to us viewers) of all the oils you did and show which oil is the best for friction,heat evapourating process and cold flow test in order as they're all different and some are better in the winter than others but fail on the evap test.So viewers can determine what oil to use if eg. If they live in freezing temp,hot temps and also wants to know the best anti wear protection for the summer and for the winter.Good idea? P.S Getting close to the 1M subs mate.Respect from the UK.
I have a 48 year old Harley and if it didn't leak oil I would be worried.
Tardeli costantini hello, but do theu still sell HOLTS , car products, Used to see them when I was a youngster, my dad even used to use some of them,CHEERS FROM NJ...USA. 🏴🏴🏴🇬🇧🇺🇸
What I have been told is that Synthetic oil doesn’t attack the engine seals, but instead it cleans up any engine sludge which been helping poor seals from leaking. Great video!
This is exactly it. Source: auto tech.
I've also heard somewhere that it has smaller molicules and will make it's way through where conventional oil won't.
@@BicBones yes, also the particle size is just about all the same, except the additives of course. Conventional oil varies in particle size. Maybe high quality oil removes the sludge, which is helping to seal the engine, thus causing a leak.
Synthetics reveal leaks, not cause them
Yes, exactly. It makes leaks worse; I'm not sure if it's just due to being synthetic, or simply a thinner base stock(the 5W vs 15W part).
I will say in my experience, with 7.3 IDIs... If you've got a typical older engine with weeping seals - a few drops here and there, not enough to worry about - on 15W40... do NOT use 5W40 synthetic! It's going to start leaking massively.
On the other hand, if you've resealed the motor... go ahead! It'll be fine.
The amount of work you put into you're videos makes you a legend and you deserve more then you get!
Thanks for the nice comment!
"I'm going to put the filter media in a press to squeeze the oil out" *Expects a professional hydraulic press of some sort* ... it's a vice with a couple 2x4's... Keeping it real. This is why I subscribed!
lol. Thank you!!
@@ProjectFarm Hi I've been working in the automobile business and I have 19years as a mechanic and I never heard of synthetic oil causing leaks unless they lower viscosity.
These oil leaks were an excuse used by oil companies back in the late 60’s & 70’s to keep people from switching over to synthetic, early Mobil 1 was the blamed oil. Most of the time, I found that leaks were already present, and the synthetic oil would find the path of least resistance, thus creating an oil leak that was not noticed prior by the owner or the mechanic
This man is GENIUS
@@ProjectFarm Can you review Amalie engine oil either the high mileage or full synthetic blend compared to some of your top brands? Royal Purple, Amsoil, Penzoil?
After working for over 40 years on all types of vehicles and support equipment (generators and air compressors) I've learned that synthetic oil use has caused leaks to start on equipment but it is not because the oil damages any component or seals; the reason these leaks start is that synthetic oils have a higher detergent content and they clean up all the dried up gunk between the seals and the shafts. these deposits are built up over years of use and they get caked on to the seals, once the synthetic oil cleans this mess up the hardened seals are not able to keep the oil in the assemblies. So the answer is NO, synthetic oil does not cause leaks, worn seals/shafts do.
Thanks for sharing.
Yup
This is what I have heard too. If you use older motor with dino oil, keep using dino oil.
Do modern synthetics contain newer detergents that also eat up older gasket and seal material in the same way a lot of older engines don't like ethanol fuel?
Saved me a bunch of typin.
Well said
Can we just appreciate how he replies to 95 percent off comments at this amount of subscribers? Edit -how many likes lol
Hes the real mvp
Yes, isn't that wonderful. I was saying that a few months back. You just don't see that often on YT.
He probably has his family helping out
Hahahah right, hes replied to every comment ive made for 2 years
@Mike B allways replied to me so I say yes he does as well
This is hands down the best channel I've seen for practical, concise product analysis.
Thanks!
I think I speak for most people when I say it's very satisfying watching your work in the field
Thank you very much! I'll try to begin adding more of that type of video footage.
I would love a tractor. It could've prevented or slowed down a fire I had on my property last month. Hunting season isn't happening for me this year.
this man has managed to make a race between oils feel exciting, well done sir!
It's content
Thank you!
Seems like watching an F1 race 🤣
More exciting than NASCAR nowadays for sure.
And start a fight ! Bonus
I can’t believe the amount of work that went into making this video. The drone shots/editing in particular are amazing! Love this channel!!
Thank you!
@Alex I was thinking that too. I was thinking to myself he must have a dozen or more episodes in the making at any given time! Lol
@@ProjectFarm you really have a lot of time on your hands huh? Nice work.
Ain't nothing worth doing if you ain't gonna do it right
@@ProjectFarm Why do you have large fields of wild grass and brush? I'm confused. Wouldn't this attract a lot of insects?
Does livestock go out there? And those aren't alfalfa fields, are they?
No offense, but this is what my family referred to as a hillbilly farm or a rich city slicker farm for recreation and dirt bikes etc. And yeah, they were kill joys. Haha
It doesn't seem like the most ideal land management. If they are wild meadows which are only cut ocassionaly, do you spray for insects? The mosquitos this would attract would annoy the hell out of me. I'm itching just looking at it.
It may sound strange to some people , but l actually felt a peace come over me as l watched the tractor shredding the weeds and grass. I guess it's because it brought back memories of my granpa on a farm tractor working the land. I was a boy and enjoyed those long, peaceful days, sitting under the huge oak tree watching the tractor go by. Thanks Project Farm . I really enjoy your videos, extremely informative. God bless.
Thanks so much!
You’ve taught me a lot more than anyone else ever could about how an engine works, what to use and what not to use and just about life in general. Thanks for teaching us all something.
Appreciate hearing! Thanks for watching.
@@ProjectFarm same here also is that a Ford 5000
Amazing how much the production quality has improved over the years. This is one of my favorite channels!
Thank you!
This is by far one of the best channels on TH-cam. No bs straight forward and to the point. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!
THAT'S YOUR OPINION ONLY
I am astonished at the production quality of these videos. What a well done job.
Thanks!
You're such an awesome person and youtuber don't ever stop producing these high quality and high informative videos!
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm You are! I Love Your Videos! It's like the thing most of us mechanical types have always wondered and possibly wanted to do!
I completely agree with you!
He is an asset to the world.
He goes farther in depth that almost anyone else I've watched. I've watched a lot of other tool review channels and while they cover some details they don't actually do the tests I see done on this channel. Not only that a lot of it is somewhat contrary to what they said before. Not on this channel. Strait to the point and i don't see any bias at all. The winner is the winner. I think the only guy who goes into extreme detail is AvE but he tests things slightly different. But that being said... only 1 guy goes into more detail, out of the dozens out there... this channel is top quality stuff 👌 👏 I've watched nearly every video as they are released. These teats help me determine where to spend my hard earned money and it also saves me a lot of stress from dealing with sub par tools/equipment that would have otherwise wasted my time.
I like how you popped a wheelie in the tractor
lol. Yes, heavy brush hog!
Video idea - does popping wheelies in tractors cause accelerated wear on steering components? Let's find out!
Kenny C. Ha ha ha ha!
Tractors have lots of torque.
@@grassroot011 that and the engine being part of the framework translates that torque very well no flex to soak it up
Finally a oil filter reviewer that realizes that all the metals inside an engine are not magnetic. This is why I watch your channel.
If there are magnetic bits in the oil of any reasonable size, something has gone very bad internally.
I love your videos. Very informative and to the point. Being a professional automotive technician for 40 yrs , Its nice to see someone who actually understand and takes the time to explain whats going on, an art thats lost in this day and age. With that being said, my personal 86 F250 6.9 Diesel always used a qt of oil every 500-750 miles. Oil changes done religiously at 3K. When I switched to the exact synthetic you used in this video, the truck would use 1 qt of oil every 250-300 miles. Never leaked any. After 3K miles , and 10 qts of oil added , I switched back to conventional oil and it went back to the same 1 qt every 500-750 miles. I did not notice any MPG improvement or changes in power when using the synthetic . Truck had 200K at that time. Keep up with the great videos !!
Thanks, will do. Thanks for sharing.
Those overhead shots have to be the coolest time lapse you've done ever
Thanks so much!
They were the best 👌 I didn't know they would just set there I've got to get 1 now thanks for all of your videos and time I tell so many people to watch your videos no bs and hear exactly what u came for !! Every time!!!
My experience as a mechanic: Typically, in a well maintained, or newer, or low miles/hours, or engine that started using synthetic oil early in its life, won't leak at all. Older engines, or ones with high mileage and have never used synthetic almost always leak when switching to it. Synthetic oil itself doesn't cause leaks, it simply exposes already bad seals that the conventional oil couldn't sleep through. Once you change the seals, the leaks stop. Great video as always! I especially liked the T4 and T6 comparison, thank you
I agree. It doesn't cause leaks. Makes no sense that it would.
I agree.
The oil must have lower viscocity compared vith any old oils.
That is the reason it will leak easier.
That tractor does not have worn zimmers.
My 1970 Massey 165 69 303 massey oliver super 88 99 silverado john deere 1010 doesn't leak t6 some of this equipment is over 50 years old
Put it this way if the engine has bad leaky seals it gonna leak . I use t6 in almost all my equipment diesel and gasoline aside from my Detroit 2 strokes .
I bought an '05 crown vic that did not leak, i was adamant about no leaks...
Gave it a fully synthetic change with expensive stuff. Wix filter and all..
Within 800-1000 miles she was leaking from the pan gasket half the way aroung plus other areas! SO PISSED!! Its a mint(meh nearly for 150k)
Learning the hard way sure sucks!
At least ill never forget the lesson.omg
Syntetic oil is not the primary cause of leaks. It just wash away slug from the seals and if seal are already old and lost its elasticity or damaged - it will leak. Also modern syntetic engine oils will darken faster than mineral oils, just because they washing better... just my opinion.
Also sorry for broken english and maybe typos.
I love how you've evolved your tests to increase accuracy in these comparisons, like in the bearing test. Keep up the great highly informative work!
i was just about to comment this, its awesome to see it change over time
This man puts SO much work into these videos!!
Thanks!
TH-camrs who test Oil issues in their old tractor by cutting weeds and hay on ~20 acres: Zero
Project Farm: "seemed like a logical, good test". Thanks for your incredible work!
Thank you!!
High quality synthetic oil has anti-sludge additives that can sometimes open old paths that were closed by dried sludge causing a leak. But this means that the seal was probably bad and due for replacement.
Thank you!
that makes sense.
This was pretty much my understanding of the phenomenon.
Dead-on with that one. Also, thought, as was done in this video, you can safely go to a lighter oil and still receive better protection with a full synthetic oil, and thinner oil doesn’t need as large of a gap to get a leak going.
I was taught the synthetic has a smaller molecular structure and that is what would cause the leak. If I also add in what Vlado T said and think about gaskets and seals being made stronger now. That really makes sense why leaks would've happened in the past and dot now
Drone footage: Thumbs-up! On a side note, wouldn't you love to be friends with this guy?
Never mind friends with, I’d love to BE this guy. All that land and toys to play with, and making videos about things that up til recently, I thought I was the only person this interested in lol.
Thank you very much!! I appreciate the positive comments!
I cannot imagine a better neighbor.
Idk man, he might strap you to a wheel, coat you in oil and see how much of you wears away.
Oh hell yeah. There would be many sleepless nights playing with all sorts of mechanical marvels figuring out new ways to break them.
As everyone is saying - excellent, instructive videos and experiments with no fluff or wasted time. Good work. (I've converted a dozen cars and motorcycles to synthetic at low to very high mileages and no leaks that weren't already there)
Thank you very much!
The amount of time you put into this videos for our joy is just remarkable. Keep up the good content and the good work! Cheers from Sweden
Wow, thank you!
Yes, he is the man!!!
I am far from a professional, however work in the automotive industry. I like the video. The general consistence on synthetic oils is they do not cause leaks. Leaks observed after switching from a conventional to a synthetic oil are results of the detergents and additive package cleaning up sludge and deposits with in the engine. This added to the fact that synthetic oils are designed to flow better results in existing small leaks to become more obvious.
I think also this issue was a lot more common in the 80s when people were just starting to try synthetic oil, in cars that already had a few miles on them. Back then everything had a rear main seal leak after 75k miles!😂
Yes thank you
Thank you!
Sure, the car had leaks with conventional oil, it's just that it had a lot more deposits that clogged the holes, so you couldn't see the leaks. With syntetic you're just removing those deposits, and then leaks can occur.
45yr old tractor, in "tractor years" that's about 10yrs.
These oldies are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly.
Bullet proof? Let me get my AR15
@@Alexander-kz6es I was going to say the same thing, but unfortunately i lost mine in a tragic boating accident....
Yeah the old ones are iron giants. Much better than the new ones.
my father in law still used a 2 cilinder tractor from 1962.
I wonder where the saying - "shoot the shit" originated?
I am addicted to @Project Farms videos as the testing results are quantitative, factual, and not interpretational. The hard work and detail in the videos is very impressive. Great work and look forward to watching more videos. Thanks!
Thanks so much!
when I switched to synthetic oil on my 1963 KMZ (Dnepr) K750M, it did start to leak oil around the alternator, but not because the oil eat or destroyed the seal, but because it worked so well with its anti sludge properties, that the old gunked up oil around the old seal (just one big o-ring) was removes, but after replacing that seal, my engine works like a charm :P (the old seal was dry and had no elasticity left)
Thank you!
That makes complete sense. The only time I had a negative effect with synthetic oils was on my Old 93 Jeep 4.0 H.O. Was stuck out in the Trees and she started to burn oil which it never has done and knock with Amsoil 10-30. The old flat tapper camshaft didn’t like it. I switched back to shell and little STP and now 4 years later she’s started to get a Tired out with 230k Jeep miles on her. Time for a rebuild.
I'm amazed you have a 40 year old diesel that doesn't leak oil.
And a Ford at that. I have seen new Ford tractors that leaked in less than a year.
@@joelkelly169 Yep! Perhaps they just don´t make em´like they used to.
@@darkoflight4938 very true the quality of most every produce has took a nose dive in the last couple of decades
@@joelkelly169 A lot of old things were very crummy back in the day as well. We just have a survivor ship bias because only the good old things are still around in use and the crummy ones are in the dump.
@@peterduck1204 you do have a point there
On my 36+ years old Audi the synthetic oil didn't start a leak, also when switching from partially to 100% synthetic on my 15 years old BMW it didn't start any leaks!
Keep the good video coming mate, I love your videos.
Thank you!
Your BMW doesn't leak? I don't buy it... lol
Both cars are way to young. "Old" means in regards to possible sealing issues due to synthetic oil - pre WWII ans slightly after... till the 1960s max.
@@Slazlo-Brovnik 30 years is considered antique in the car world. Different engine compression and material plus different seals are used since the 80s - 90s and up to 2000 cars have changed alot. For this type of test it doesn't need to be an engine from the 60s-
@@fragglefknrock7568 Sorry - but ... no.
The question is not if a car of this and that age is considered "antique" or not, this is just a word. The question is why exactly synthetic oil might be a problem. And that is the case because of some seal-materials used in older cars. These seals can be damaged by synthetic oil. I could go a bit more in the details here but unfortunately I do not know the english technical terms for the materials etc. in question (I am German).
Basically the design features in question have been in use prior WWII and maybe a bit after that. More or less those seals (and some other design aspects such as the absence of an oil-filter) are not in use anymore since the early 60s. Of course stuff changed from 80s -90s to today, but for the question at hand that does not matter - the important change was done way before that.
So again: Regarding the question "How old must an engine be, so that synthetic oil may be harmful to it" the answer is: It must be build prior ca. 1965.
Okay, there is ONE possible issue with that statement, and that is: I am talking about European engines. It may be that in the US those older designs where used longer. But I doubt that. And even if: Not into the 80s.
And BTW: Project Farms test just kinda supports my statement, don't you think?
A truly honest youtuber. There is a reason why his channel is so big.
That overhead view from drones was AMAZING, awesome time lapse footage and excellent testing setup as usual, you my friend are a TH-cam must watch.
Thank you!
can we all just take a moment to appreciate the farmers of America? the life blood of the country
Thank you!
Canada as well friend.
ANF. America needs farmers
No. All workers matter. And most workers don’t get subsidies like farmers.
Is project farm from Canada? I agree all farmers should be appreciated 👌
So, synthetic motor oils that cause “leaks” are generally from the effectiveness of synthetics cleaning varnish/gel on neglected engines. Any wear or leaks may have just been masked.
Also, still would love to see synthetic show-down on the new 0w-16 Toyota/Honda/Mobil one stuff and same for 0w-20 OEM oil from the Japanese imports compared to each other and high ends like valvoline advanced syn, penzoil ultra platinum, amsoil etc
Correctamundo sir!
Did i just watch Farming Simulator? 10:36
He already did the oil challenge.... forgot who the winner was
That is not entirely true. Seal polymers change volume depending on the chemicals that are exposed to. Synthetic oil tend to swell seals less than mineral oil. For this reason some suppliers add "seal swellers" to the oil so the problem is completely gone. This is an issue that was relevant 30 years ago. Modern seals tend to behave better with synthetic oils.
Back in the 80s,i chanced the braking fluid,for a race motor bike(new)
The seal were all worn out the next day,so all the brake fluid(synth) was on the floor.
I don't often watch with captions, but even your captions are thorough and detailed. Thanks for making this show. You're doing great.
Thanks and you are welcome!
This was very interesting. I just watched this with our mobile 1 engineer and reliability department at a gold mine in northern Ontario. We thought it was great, thanks
Thank you very much!
I liked his expensive and highly technical press that he used on the oil filter pleats.
lol. Thank you!
Man, I’ve always appreciated this channel for the large amount of unbiased detailed information. But after watching this, there is even MORE detailed information and facts that I have never considered. Project Farm has been and always will be the most awesome TH-cam channels out there. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm , I couldn't agree more with Jimmy. I don't know if you follow Shanna Simmons ( research engineer for Shell Oil) on TH-cam. I think you will find her results pretty close to yours.
Would love to see an oil filter comparison test like Fram, Motorcraft, Wix, Napa Gold, AC Delco, Purolator, STP, Mopar. Always love watching product comparisons. Also notice that tractor did a wheelie(awesome)!
Thanks for the suggestion.
the horse race like announcing for the cold oil race was perfect.
Thank you!
Horse races start after 7:05
Sleep or watch a oil for tractors comparison?!?
Ahh... who needs to sleep!
Thank you!
@@43mackmobile Not true.
You're the only youtuber I turn my adblocker off for. Thank you for all you do! I know this takes a lot of time and money and I appreciate it. I dont have any video recommendations because you've been so good at picking up the ones I would want to see but didn't even realize I wanted to see it until you did it!
Thank you very much! It helps! I've got some very high cost videos on the way. Thanks again!
Keep your adblocker on and support him directly through Patreon. He'll make a buck a month that way instead of a few cents.
@@evilutionltd well said
@@evilutionltd I have reasons not to use patreon. However, if everyone switched to brave browser we could avoid this whole conversation.
A customer of mine in Owasso, OK, has a Ford Powerstroke Diesel, 7.3L with over 325,000 miles; he began using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel (DME) at 200,000 miles and still no leaks. Another very happy end-user. Thanks Scott.
I love how much thought you put into the process and how much work you do for just a 12 min video. This video must of tool weeks to make
Thank you very much!
When you opened that oil filter I saw a large chunk of metal, thought "Oh Man your tractor is toast!" Turned out to be a chunk of dust on my laptop screen. Please keep these great videos coming!
Thank you for the feedback
Old radial aircraft engines were expected to have chunks every oil change. 1-2mm isn't uncommon.
Granted, those have a stack of mesh screens, not actual paper material.
That's just the screen filter doing it's job.
Synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth. Conventional oil tends to have far fewer detergents and dispersants than synthetic oil, and it also tends to contain more impurities. This means that conventional oil will be both more susceptible to sludge buildup and less capable of removing said sludge and keeping it suspended in the oil to be removed by the filter. Conventional oil is also more volatile than synthetic oil of the same viscosity, which means that as the conventional oil is heated the "lighter" components of the oil are boiled away leaving behind a thicker oil. This happens to some degree with synthetic oil as well, but as you could see from the oil pour test it has a much greater impact on the conventional oil's viscosity. This thickening phenomenon is one of the reasons why they have you change your oil at regular intervals, and why your vehicle's owner's manual says to change it more often if you put your vehicle through more heavy duty use cases, like towing or racing, since your engine will run hotter for longer in those uses. Synthetic oil's resistance to this thermal breakdown is one of the reasons you can go longer between oil changes when using synthetic oil.
Putting all of this together, an engine running conventional oil will have more sludge buildup and the oil will get thicker the longer it is in the engine. These two things work together to mask any marginal oil seals that are on their way out and would otherwise be leaking. Once you make the switch to synthetic oil the extra detergents help clean the sludge out and the "thinner" synthetic oil will begin to seep out through the areas that were previously plugged with sludge, exposing the bad seals. If the engine had been somewhat neglected before the switch to synthetic and hadn't been getting oil changes on time, or if it was operated in particularly wet environments (water in the oil is one of the sources of sludge), then the amount of leaking after the switch can be significant. If, however, the vehicle was well maintained with on time oil changes at the appropriate intervals for your use case, then the engine likely won't exhibit any leaks when switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil.
So the engine would be in poor condition either way, you simply would learn about it sooner and in less disastrous a fashion then, is that correct?
@@EgorKaskader More or less, yes. If you switch from conventional to synthetic oil (keeping the same viscosity) and start noticing leaks that weren't there before the switch, then you likely have oil seals that were going bad, but too much sludge had built up in the worn areas to allow much oil to leak out before the extra detergents in the synthetic oil cleaned out the sludge. If this is the case, then the oil seals are likely to need replacement, though sometimes it's the shaft the seal rides on that is worn or scratched and that actually needs to be replaced. Either problem though could have been masked by sludge buildup.
@@r.j.bedore9884 In my experience, it's not so much sludge buildup as probably the thinner viscosity you 'get' with typical synthetic - going from 15w40 conventional to 5w40 synthetic, for instance. I did try it on a slightly weeping engine(very typical, and something that would work for years this way) and, well, those leaks became *massive*. After losing two quarts in a couple hundred miles, I threw in some Lucas to thicken it up, changed the oil back to conventional at like 3K miles, and the oil leaks dropped back to a 'nominal' level... and I'm pretty sure that engine is still in working shape to this day.
(on a freshly-rebuilt engine with new seals, I ran synthetic with no noticable leaks at all)
@AUDIO MAN you don't have a brand new 80 trans am, that would be an almost 40 year old car.
kinda wrote a huge oxymoron, " synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth...if, however, the vehicle was well maintained..." which is it ?
switching to a synthetic oil in an engine that doesn't leak because of sludge build up really doesn't matter, the detergents can clean
up a little but are more meant to maintain a clean engine by stopping sludge before it starts, not even the solvents in an engine flush
would clean out sludge build up. Perhaps more than synthetic oil but not enough to unclog a leaky seal, under the sludge is varnish
that would need walnut blasting to remove.
With all you've done to those engines during every episode, you make engine work look a lot more simple and a lot less intimidating than i originally thought. You explain things very well
Thank you very much!
I have been using synthetics since I got my drivers licence back in 1976, Back when Mobil 1 was about the only synthetic oil out there. Back then everyone said don't use it your engine will leak oil and your bearings will go bad, well none of that happened. In 79 I was in the U.S.A.F. stationed in northern Main after a blizzard and temps well below -35F my jeep with Mobil 1 in it was the only car in the barracks parking lot that started.
Eugene Tuorto Just a better breed of oil from the beginning. Thanks for sharing this, I didn’t know that we’d had synthetics commercially available since the ‘70s.
@@Cjbarker2 from my research, Mobil1 was the first full synthetic in '74, however a semi-synthetic was first offered by Motul in 1966
Justin Noker Neat! I’ve never thought to research oils like that, but new information is always cool to find. Thank you!
@@Cjbarker2 Mobil 1 used to have a commercial with a famous football player trying to hold the end of a screw driver dipped in Mobil 1 , I will have to see if I can find it on YT.
Good old Loring AFB. I was born in Presque Isle. Great memories even though I was never in the AF.
I love this channel. Thanks for the tip on "Engine Restore." My 25 year old Kubota is now starting up almost immediately. I've also been running T-6 in it for a couple of years with no leaks.
Glad to help!
@@ProjectFarm there is no way synthetic oil can cause a leak. Maybe its cleaning out the dirt then it starts leaking but not on a good engine. I only use synthetic. I put it in lawn mower, car. Motor bike, honda gx engine, it dosnt have anything in it to damage seals or any other parts but it is moor resistant to heating and takes longer to break down. Anyway great video as usual i love what your doing keep using synthetic in that tractor👍 big thumbs up👍
@@ProjectFarm your work is valuable.👍
Can we all take a moment to appreciate the fact that this guy can operate a tractor and fly a drone at the same time! Lol 👍
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm lol wut
@@ProjectFarm bot mode activated
Welker Farms does it all the time :P
You can set up a flight plan for the drone or a follow me as well.
Just discovered your channel. It is first-class in every way. About 18 months ago I bought a project truck 94 F250 with7.3 IDI engine. I bought it because it ran so strong. First I changed all the fluids not knowing what kind of oil was used in it before. From the time I owned it until I got the time to start working on it, I noticed it didn't have a leak of anything. First I changed the oil and went to a synthetic. Since then I have spent $$$ on body and paint. Though not many miles were put on the truck I noticed a small leak in time out of the rear seal. I put a quality stop leak additive in it but it has not stopped the leak. After seeing this video and reading the comments I now understand how the new oil may have created the leak. I've also noticed a small seeping of the valve cover gaskets that wasn't there before. I will have the repairs done because I can't stand any leaks in any of my cars. Now, I'm wondering to avoid any new leaks after the repairs should I go back to conventional oil? I don't want to create any new leaks that are not there now? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. PS there is no wonder why your channel is doing so well. Your stats are off the hook. Your hard work has really paid off. Good for you.
I really love how utilitarian your channel is, and it’s filmed very well too. I must admit I’ve taken inspiration from you while getting my own channel going. Thanks for your awesome content!
Thank you very much!!
Have you chilled oils and put them on the lubricity tester! I would love to see how cold oil protects
Hmm... Cold weather start wear test??? I like it!
I uhh.. thirdly support this
Cold weather start protection is really about how quickly the oil gets pumped through the engine, oils with a lower viscosity will always win this test. Years back I used the original Mobile 1 0w-40 in a Rover M16 engine comparing to 15w-40 or 10w-40 (Castor GTX or Duckhams Q ). When using Mobile 1 the valve gear noise would be reduced greatly almost instantly on a cold start, but with the thicker oils there would be a perceptible time delay before the oil reached the hydraulic lifters and camshaft.
Yes. Do this
Thank you for the recommendation!
Can we appreciate the patience of this guy? Most comparison videos are done in 1 day. This guy puts days and this one probably well over a month. Awesome job!
I appreciate that!
Your shear enthusiasm is so inspiring.
Thank you so much for your channel!
You are so welcome!
I always like your testing, very impressive and thoughtful.
I started using synthetic oils in the late '70s, Mobil 1. That was because of military experience with them in jets.
The "leaks" are generally from older motors, that have used conventional oils and there is "sludge" build up. This generally collects in recessed areas of seals. Due to the improved detergent action of syn-oils, and ability to flow freely, the gunk that was actually acting like a plug gets cleaned out and that is the leak source.
Mobil had a great series of informative articles that compared natural and syn oils after very high mileage and hard service uses (taxis) and compared cleaning actions. You may be able to find those.
Didn't expect tractor to leak, however get an old Ford with 300k on it and try the same test with a normal 3000 mile test, you may see something there
Keep up the tests, really enjoyable, like AvE and Big Clive
Thank you
This is exactly what I was going to say! GMTA!
Ah great I tried T6 in a 150k 5.8L Windsor engine and it runs good but burns a bit. Back to the Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w-30 I reckon, hopefully that'll pack some sludge back in there
That's what I've always heard but I don't buy it. Anyway, gunk plugging up holes means gunk messing with the rest of the engine too.
@@KingAdrock420 I am thinking back a long time ago, cork gaskets and Permatex, and Pennzoil.
Lots of build up. Mobil did tests and synthetic oil had superior cleaning and they did not reccomend on high time motors. They even advertised you could run that oil for a year, just replace the filter at recommended intervals and top up the oil. I did that on my Toyota , a 1977 Corolla and drove the snot out of it. I had an oil temp gauge too and it ran cooler, lower friction?
This “myth” has never stopped me from using synthetic in anything. Synthetic is pretty much always better than regular oil so I try to take advantage of that
Thank you!
Always go synthetic it makes a huge difference. I even use synthetic in my commercial lawn mowers and snowblowers, it’s amazing how much longer the oil stays a light amber color. When I would use conventional sae 30 it would turn black in 1 day or less.
Also much easier cold starts when the temps are low in spring and fall on the larger engines on the zero turns. Used to kill batteries cranking in the morning start at least once a week on something, now never.
It lasts longer thats it.if you change your oil often there is no need for it.you can change the oil on 12k km intervals with syntetic.
I use both depending on the budget.you can switch from syntetic to regular without any harm to an engine..i tested it since 25yrs allways done it on all of my engines
@@Alex-us2vw for the cold starts being easier its about the grade of oil not syntetic vs regular.
The oil only lasts longer
While synthetic oil won't create a leak, it will find one. That being said, additives can help with leaks. A temporary solution for minor leaks.
that overhead view of the hay field getting mowed was really cool!
Thank you! I love baling hay.
That footage of the tractor in use took me back to my teenage work. Thanks for including that. Pure magic.
You are welcome!
This is the way you do videos on TH-cam. Informative, highly interesting and no advertisements. Well spoken, volume, tone and the ability to keep the viewer's attention. A well done series, that I subscribed to long ago due to content.
Wow, thank you!
No wonder he has a life supply of lawnmowers, Dude has got lot of grass to cut!
lol. Great point!
As they say.... the more the merrier!
@@raybin6873 you mean to say ..... the mow the merrier!
@@VerifyVeracity - har har har! I stand updated!!! 🇺🇲
That's a biiiiiiiiggggg lawn!!! Huge! Massive!
I've had more oil leak out of my 48 8N since I switched to synthetic oil. I think this is because the synthetic oil has allowed some of the old sludge to move on and opened an already leaky seal. Love your videos and watch religiously. You're truly helping people.
OMG!
I've not watched this video yet and I will, but I'm going to comment about this FIRST!
YES!! OMG YES............................... and worse!
And it can cause engine rattles, BUT! that's in engines that have lots of MILES on conventional oils, I had TWO disasters in two different cars in the same time frame, one was a Nissan pickup and one was a Chrysler Lebaron , both with over 100,000 miles on them.
Here is what happened. I was into researching motor oil for a popular motorcycle forum and I got caught up in the marking hype of the Synthetic oil and the EXTENDED oil changes, with the regular oil filter interval changes, change the oil once in between oil changes, and top of the oil. Two of my own vehicles. So, I bought the famed Mobil-1 and changed the oil in both vehicles thinking I had did something GREAT! and them came the mid filter oil change and that went well, so the wife and I drive ON! well then came the actual oil changes in both and that went well but the oil looked a LOT darker then I expected, so we drive on. Well, in a couple of thousand miles on the Chrysler and the wife comes and informs me her car SOUNDS AWFUL and is rattling like crazy!!! so I go out and check the oil level, its fine! I start it up and it sounded like it was coming apart, not knocking but but like a couple hands full of boxed end wrenches was left inside each valve cover!!! My thought was the SYNTHETIC OIL did something, and it did. I drained out the oil removed the the oil filter, went to the parts store, bought 5 quarts of conventional motor oil and a new oil filter put it in the car and started it up, IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS READY FOR THE JUNK YARD!!!!! I let it set and idle for maybe 20 minutes, and the oil pressure gauge showed NORMAL oil pressure. I decided to take it for a gentle drive and about 30 minutes into the drive it still sounded bad, but it wasn't as bad. Over the next several weeks of normal use it got a little quieter and quieter, in a couple of months the noisy reduced to so slight ticks, to finely near normal.
But, during this time the Nissan pickup was only a couple of weeks behind the switch to Synthetic oil, and the EXACT same thing happened to it!, and I did the exact same thing to cure it, I thought I had ruined both engines.
Now, to the WHY and to the why the change to synthetic oil on high mileage engines can cause oil leaks.
In the early days of motor oils it was believed that the crude oil was from dinosaur remains, will now know now that that's NOT true at oil, but for the purpose here I'll refer to it as Dino oil.
The conventional oils is WAY better these days than in the days of old, BUT! they can still leave what I call "Dino Plating" in an engine, not SLUDGE, but a golden varnish color. This plating grows and presses in against seal lips at the shafts and it also plates the internal edges of the gaskets. As the shafts at the seals and the seals wear the plating grows and fills in the space, it also crowds and fills in in between all the moving metal parts inside the engine, more wear, more room for dino plating growth, the dino plating on the gasket edges plates them enough so that they dry out and start to rot. Now, lets say this has been happening for say 180,000 miles and we get the idea to change to a Synthetic oil, this oil doesn't have anything in to produce this dino plating and without that its actually starts to break what plating is in the engine down and cleaning it out. Well, this wonderful running engine and all its parts has formed the PERFECT union with the dino plating sense it conception, now that the rotten gaskets are getting exposed to this new oil and in a far less condition to control oil leakage by themselves!, and the lips of the oil seals that had been crowded with the dino plating and made room for loses their sealing position and starts to leak and the formally crowded metal parts have this NEW found space and they start to rattle.
My older brother was a Firestone store manager for 25 years and they STOPPED doing synthetic oil conversions on higher mileage engines do to all the FALL OUT (problems) from doing it, leaks and rattles!!!
The dino plating comes from the remaining tars and paraffin's that smoke and burn off and then collect inside the engine, these can't be gotten completely out of the oil via normal refining!
However seeing how synthetic oil is molecular-ly dismantled and the crude (I call) oily's are collected, then re-joint into new molecular chains that didn't exist in nature before (making it synthetic) means that 100% of the tars and paraffin's are taken out (actually left out).
Will it do this in your engine? how many miles is on it? how much dino plating has the years of conventional oil left in it? its a roll of the dice.
So, make your own choice, but for me if its an older engine with considerable miles on it that's running good for its age, I'll let the sleeping dog lie, its already got a happy internal union inside, if its happy I'm happy!
Thanks for all your video's
Your tractor is in Great shape for its age. You really take care of your equipment. Thank you for all your time and effort in these videos. We all appreciate you!
Thanks so much!
i think this is one of those really old wive's tales now. if i remember right, early synthetic oil would leak, but they very quickly added some additives to help "swell" the seals on cars so it's not a problem switching over. thanks for the great videos
Thank you!
Just wanted to share my experience switching to synthetic oils. I own two motorcycles each of which are nearly 40 years old. I'm sure they've both been using conventional oil their whole lives. When I got them I switched to synthetic. In fact, I use Shell Rotella T6 because it meets the JASO-MA specification.
I've never had issues with either bikes consuming oil, or leaking. I also use synthetic oil on both of my cars. No issues there either. And I'm willing to bet both of my cars spent most of their lives on conventional oil before I purchased them as well. Heck, I even use synthetic oil in my lawn mower, and it's never given me issues either.
Synthetic oil does not cause issues. Skipping oil changes causes issues.
I will always use synthetic oil in all my motors.
Thank you
I have not had any issues with synthetic oil either heck i didn't change the oil for 5 years ran up 100,000 miles. Still no issue only changed the oil when I snapped the timing belt so did a whole head rebuild that was fun..... I upgraded the oil to one that was slightly thicker. Still no issues today cars hitting 200k miles. It's a renault too... df. guess every car is different right?
I recently bought a 31 year old Suzuki 1400. I am considering changing over to synthetic. Thanks for your input.
Same!
Mate. You're simply number one when it comes down to comparative testing. 👍
Wow, thank you!
I used to take care of a fleet of buses. We used Shell Rotella 15w40. One day the powers to be ordered synthetic oil that was supposed to be the equivalent to the Rotella. I said we don't want to go there. They said to use it. Well we did. Lost one engine and three others took up smoking. Needless to say the powers to be decided that I was right. Synthetic has its place but there are some applications that it doesn't fit. I use the T4 in everything, and I mean everything. From my tractor to the riding mower. Some have argued with me but, seeing is believing. Seen synthetics used in the wrong application and the damage done. Never seen one cause seals to leak though. Great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Driving the tractor brings back memories. I missed living on the farm.
With any research, this is a myth; the reverse is actually true, as older synthetic oils were made on different processes, that resulted in a more corrosive oil. But newer production processes have been refined to produce far less corrosive synthetic oils.
If anything, a few rounds of modern synthetic oil in an old engine can reveal previously existing leaks that a few larger particles out of the refined oil had previously clogged.
Thank you!
Which I believe still causes it to leak when it hadn't before, correct?
It may not be the cause of the leak directly, but it still leaks with synthetic oil in it.
I've heard that conventional oil will leave deposits much more easily and that new synthetic oil will clean out there gunk exposing the bad seal that had been there to begin with.
Synthetic oil is by far a superior product today
Yup correct, I think i may have made the suggestion for this video so it's awesome he's done it. I changed a few times on my 2002 Acura RSX between Mobil 1 full synthetic and regular mobil 1 and have not run into any issues. Car had 180k miles before i sold it and had zero leaks.
Sir,
I just recently switch to synthetic in my 2003 Matrix. I was extremely nervous. Watching TH-cam videos discouraging the switch. But I did about a 1,000 miles ago. So far so good 👍🏼. The Matrix has over 212,000 miles on it.
Nice! Lots of miles still in the Matrix. Thank you
Every vehicle I have ever had I have switched to synthetic as soon as the manufacturer warranty run out on the vehicle and I have never had an oil related issue with any motor of any vehicle I have owned
Seems like it really depends how often the engine has been serviced. Regularly maintained engines show almost no issues when swapping to synthetic, poorly maintained ones on the other hand start leaking and smoking pretty soon after.
Great video, you put so much work into each one, serious respect!
I think synthetic oil is perfectly fine to use, in the heavy equipment industry we use synthetic (sometimes T6 actually) in everything including old equipment with tens of thousands of hours.
Thank you!
It really is crazy how much work he does for each video (some more than others of coarse) and the money he lays out is crazy. I’m positive in many of his vids he looses money.
Oh man during the mowing montage I could feel my sinuses closing up and eyes watering Lol
Lol
I feel you bro... Project Farm you're so Lucky you don't have allergies.
"sample size of one" and my respect for your methods (already pretty good) went way up.
Thank you!
John Harder I’m agree I’m impressed for all the good work he did
Years ago, I swapped the oil in 2 350 Chevrolets, one from 1970 and the other from 1986) to synthetic. No leaks.
Great information. Thank you
This is exactly what I was looking for. Looking to change the oil in my 88 malibu boat chev 350 soon
Ester based actually should do the opposite given it swolles the gaskets and rubber, it's more sticky.... the only reason for it to make a leak is if the chemistry of the rubber is incompatible or the gaskets
This channel should have 5 million subs. These are the most controlled test of consumer products on the market. You've saved everyone a ton of money over the years on buying snake oil.
Thanks for the positive comment!
I like the little splash cover you added to the bearing test device !
Thank you!
Been using 0w-40 in my 830 case for twenty years , it even starts easier in the winter ! No issues with synthetic !
i almost read that as wd 40 lol
Thank you!
300ml nearly laughed out loud lol
been watching his vids for about a year and a half and havent missed one yet! hes got some great reliable test results!
Thank you very much!!
Regardless of this videos age and the rest, you’re relentless and undervalued. More lay testing like this in more fields is going to revolutionize quality and advertising, expose those with lesser quality products and hide the fact with flashy colors on a bottle.
Thanks!
I've heard this many times over the years. Really glad you tested this rumour. You have a great YT page! Thanks!
Thank you!
Outstanding I have heard this for years.
Thanks Mr Project Farm.
Indeed
Thank you!!
I've never actually heard this before, thanks for the insight
Thank you!
Another great! I have to agree with some of the comments in regards to leaks. I feel it doesn't hurt any seals. It will clean better, arguably, and cause some more weeping around old seals and gaskets. I believe the molecular structure is smaller as well. Like air vs helium in a balloon, the helium leaks quicker thru the permeable rubber vs the straight air, right. I have also been told that after a while the leaks will slow because the synthetic oil will condition the seals and gaskets. However I have never witnessed this to be accurate because if I have a leak it drives me nut and I have to repair it.
Wow that tractor is sweet! What a work horse! Keep doing what your doing and don't part with that tractor. the new ones are a nightmare! Awesome
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
yo the overhead shots where so satisfying to watch
Thank you very much!
YES! I forget it was Monday! You make Mondays something to look forward to!
Thank you! Hope you have a great week!
@@ProjectFarm Same to you! You must be very busy with all of these projects! lol
loved the video! i want to put synthetic into my gf's CRV which already has a few minor leaks so would have to fix those first, i switched my poor running yardman (2001) lawn tractor to synthetic, woa what a difference!!! (and no leaks) i went from doing my lawn, needing to fill up a second time, to doing my lawn 3 or 4 times in one tank! now granted i have no idea how long it was that the previous oil sat in that poor engine but just for starting purposes, the synthetic made it start sooo easy!
This is the testing we need to see if these products ACTUALLY WORK! Thanks for putting in the time! Love your channel and have for quite some time!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Getting pretty high tech there Project Farm! Digging the aerial photography and time-lapses!
Thank you!
Watching you run that tractor was so satisfying and peaceful to watch.
Thank you!
Agreed. Excellent drone footage there!
I know right?.. was thinking the same
Work fascinates me. I could WATCH it for hours! ;)
It was my favorite part. :)
I’ve been watching your channel for some time now, and I love all the new equipment. New freezer, new burners for heating the oils, and awesome drone footage.
Thank you!
Great video! I buy all kinds of old vehicles that have been sitting and I revive them and keep them going. I always change oil as a start to any of them and usually run a cheaper conventional oil first then switch to a good quality synthetic after a few hundred miles. I've never seen a leak start from synthetic oil. Even the other day I asked for an oil change kit as my local parts store and the guy behind the counter asked if I'd always used synthetic in it. First time I was ever asked that. He said they can cause leaks and honestly I'd never heard that before. I told him I'll take the risk based on my years of the same routine! Thanks for this video!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I've been watching your channel for years now, I'm beyond impressed with your improvements to you testing methods. While still crude from time to time, I'm amazed with your continued perseverance to strive for better and more accurate data. Keep doing what you're doing boss. Just remember, never sell out, real data is far more valuable for the people that you started this for. If you do, I understand, but remember what that means.
Awesome, thank you!
Honestly I had no initial interest in this topic but and ended up learning a lot. Enjoyed the aerial video too. Very thorough and nicely done sir!
Thank you!!
I purchased a 1960 Buick Electra with the 401 CID engine. It has 22,000 original miles and is like brand new. I installed Mobil I engine oil in it and have never had any problems with either leaking or oil consumption.
Very nice find! Impressive car!
Post a video of your Electra.
I dig old cars.
You even make mowing look cool on TH-cam! I switched from dyno oil to T6 in my 7.3L international motor years ago with no issues.
Thanks for sharing.