Project Farm First off love your vids man. Second would for you to test an oil catch can on a lawn mower to see if it works or if it make the difference??
Hi PF. I was buffing out my headlight over the weekend and was wondering what you think about the headlight restore kits. Would love to see what works the best. I used the 3m kit(FYI) headlights look brand new. Just hope you would enjoy doing that. Thank you.
Bought a Subaru with 116k on it about 20 years ago. Never paid attention to what oil I put in it . Always conventional usually Wal Mart. Never drained the oil. Had toilet paper filters on the oil and ATF. It has almost 250 k on it now. Took off a valve cover and it was very clean. My daughter took it over. Have to pay more attention to it.
He was making rookie mistakes early on though with his testing (lets use two very different old engines with unknown usage in their lives and see which blows up first without oil after using slick50/similar in one of them.) he has gotten way better since then. Got to have consistency in the control and variables or the experiment means nothing.
I love this channel. No annoying intro, straight to the point and very informative. You have steered me in the right direction numerous times! Thank you!
Agreed on the those annoying intros. Most of the time I have to jump around to see if there is any value. You don't need to do that with PF He is great.
HAHA. Absolutely brother. My Pops shakes his head in disbelief often when he hears the days topic. Might even have been a little eye roll involved during the "Head & Shoulders for engine oil episode. I truly love this channel.
When I was young and poor, I had a f-100 that ran fine but used a quart of oil every 800 miles. The manager of the local jiffy lube used to save a couple of cases of empty oil bottles for me. From these "empty" oil bottles I could turn them upside down overnight and get a quart or so. Viscosity didn't matter to me. It did fine.
Had an old ranger that did the same. About a quart every 1000, though. We'd add a quart of STP treatment because it was so thick. Loss was about a quart until the next change after that.
The chicken and the egg... Maybe the reason why it was burning oil, was because it was the wrong oil type? Older engines do better with thicker than manufacturer recommended oils.
I tested this in 2007 on a 1992 GMC Jimmy 4.3L. Had no problems over a normal oil change. I worked at a quicklube and used a very similar mix of oils. Back then it was still in everyones mind that you couldn't even switch brands from oil change to oil change. So I wanted to go to extreme case. Thanks for sharing with the world!
I knew this all along. I worked at a local oil place & kept all the residue oil from all the empty plastic containers & also big plastic bags used in the box oils. Mostly the weights were 5W20, 5W30, some 10W30, and some 0 weight oils. Even some Shell Rotella diesel. Some of these oils were semi-blend, some full synthetic, & some conventional. I wound up with at least 5 gallons of clean, new, mixed oil. I used some in my 250,000 mile Blazer with no ill effects. I also used some in a well worn Honda Accord with no ill effects.
Hahahahaha that’s funny. Imagine how many different types of protection was in that engine it must have the best looking valves and cylinders for that mileage.
I would have lost the daily double. I had used Amazon to win but new Amazon second because of the heavier oils in the blend. Good thing I didn't put the cash down before post.
It’s insane how much effort you put into these videos. A simple “we appreciate you” may not be sufficient, but we really do. You for sure have one of the best channels on TH-cam.
Q: "What's the biggest difference between brands of motor oil?" ... A: "The color of the bottle." Any decent brand is compatible with any other. Thanks, great video (as usual!)
Adam, you absolutely 100% correct. It makes NO difference what reputable brand you choose....including store brands....Walmart, Rural King, etc. They're all manufactured to industry specs., pass the tests and certified as such. If the API certification says it meets whatever indicated on the container, you're good to go. The armchair experts can flame away....I couldn't care less. After nearly 50 years of operating all sorts of motorized vehicles and machinery, I've yet to lose an engine to catastrophic failure and I've always ran the guts out of them. Way back when I was a little boy driver I bought into the asinine 2000 mile change rule. I got tired of changing oil. I let it go to 6,000...then 10,000 and now with synthetics 15,000. I don't lose any sleep, haven't lost any engines in the ten years I've been running synthetic oil. I just bought a 2019 Tundra...showing 3900 miles on the odometer. Toyota going to give me a free oil change every 10,000 miles...their recommended regimen. I don't know what oil they'll put in, don't care. When it's my turn to start changing the oil, it'll be whatever synthetic is on sale and I'm planning on running it 20,000 miles between changes. Why? Because I have faith it'll be fine. If it comes apart.....hmmm, good excuse to trade it off.
His video series showing the differences in oil performance - especially when cold - shows there are some oils better in cold conditions *(start up) than others. It is well known that synthetics break down slower than regular oils. A bit of common sense and research can help if you want a very long life from your engines. Yes, mixing them isn't a big deal - heck they make blends already.
I've always believed oil is oil, as long as it's slick it'll work just fine, but I also believe now to keep it with what the manufacturer suggests, like now mostly it's 5W20 or so
@@mark-wn5ek I'm with you. I used to do the same thing. Every 2000 miles. Now I go by what the car computer says. When it gets to 5% I change it, no matter the mileage.
I really appreciate this one! None of my vehicles use a full 5 qts of oil so I usually have anywhere between 0.1 to 1.5 qts of oil left over. I dont mix types or weights, but I always use that leftover and add it up with other brands leftovers. So I'd still run synthetic 5w20, but it'll be a little bit of Mobil 1, Shell, Royal Purple, etc. Usually just whatever is on sale at an auto parts store.
I have mixed different weights, brands etc over the years never had problems - the important thing is to keep it full and change the oil/filter frequently
Same here but with an eye on the temperature I'm not sure a little of one or the other even if just enough of different weights to top it off would make a big difference in anything.
I’m not quite sure I understand this part of the test. Did the oil that finished first down the ramp do the best or the oil that finished last do the best?
@@Jonathan-hq8od Generally the oil that finishes first is better because it has a better flow rate, which is desirable in most cases. The faster the oil can flow the quicker it can be distributed over the metal-on-metal contact areas and therefore reduce wear.
I stopped helping people with car problems after experiencing that enough times, same with computers, because every future problem is your responsibility now to them. All I do for them now is pull out my tuning laptop and check codes and sensor data for them, then send them on their way to a garage who are already dealing with insane bullshit from customers all day.
My brother in law's next door neighbor's cousin said your scan tool ruined my battery and made my washer fluid reservoir leak,, and he is an expert that works at Jiffy Lube
@Brian B LOL. Well I would hope more than 10 cents if you are any good. I think 20- 25% is pretty good. The alternative is work for yourself and once you start thinking about all the expensive equipment that you would have to buy that your shop provides you for free, technical resources, taxes, regulations, liability, medical... the list goes on. Now that money you are making working for someone else doesn't seem too bad. But that's only if you are good AND know how to market and advocate for yourself.
You have become my go-to site for analysis of many different products. There are lots of opinion videos out there, but you actually do some scientific testing for results. Thank you so much!
I love this channel so much. The energy is always so high. You never act forced to do videos, you have fun in your videos, and the laugh that you put in here and there just makes watching your videos relaxing. I like the information that I get from the videos, and the time that I've spent watching them never feels lost or wasted. In summary: I really like the channel!
Ian from Forgotten Weapons. The amount of travel, research, and networking he does to go to invitation only arsenals to show us what he does has to be comparable. True he may not be quiet as hands on, but the hours have to be similar. Both are exceptional education channels in either case.
I'd like to second this. Especially to test how different hand cleaners work against several common types of 'hand contaminants' such as grease, glue, paint/varnish, label adhesive, etc. I suspect different types of cleaners may work better or worse against different types of crud. I've seen tests of hand cleaners before, but often they just test against dirt, which is the _least_ hard to clean off. I'd like to know what will get hard-to-remove stuff off my hands (without removing the skin in the process).
The only "wrong type" is using conventional green in a system with aluminum and plastic, or using it to top up a silicate free coolant. Every manufacturer specific coolant is just their own take on silicate/phosphate free coolant. You could mix honda, nissan, toyota, and vw coolant all together in your car and not a damn thing would happen because they're all just similar takes on the same thing. The colors mean nothing. Anything labeled for a specific make, and anything labeled as extended life are all the same thing and can be used interchangeably. The only outlier is conventional green (which really shouldn't exist anymore) Pretty much anything you're going to buy off the shelf is all the same thing
The short answer is - you can use any antifreeze if you change your antifreeze often. However, if you change your antifreeze as often as you change your thermostat for instance, the wrong antifreeze will eat the seals in your engine. You really don't want to know how I know that... it was expensive.
I keep your oil lab in business , enjoy your videos , well thought out and useful , even for the old guy ( 63 ) .. I just did this actually in my Harley , I replaced the cam chest and had four quarts of different brands 20-50 and one 20-60 , just dumped them all together , runs fine , fixing to dump tomorrow and put fresh oil in .. Don't get excited over brands anymore , your lab and mine have proven that all the oils I use are fine time and time again ..
I’ve been a mechanic for 55 years, and have always been a believer in not mixing oils. I have several different oils on my shelves that have accumulated over the years. I let different ones use the lift to change oil. But after watching your video I’m not quite as worried to use up some of small amounts of oils kicking around! Thanks Paul V
Your testing/attention to details were exceptional. Your resolve towards these questions are as well commendable. I am sure many can find your supplied information extremely useful. I am also finding your videos problem solving and thought provoking. Many thanks amigo from Texas
It’s a great demonstration of how to conduct an experiment with available resources, controlling for variables and understanding the results and their limitations. The scientific method is alive and well.
@@ProjectFarm 80w90 gear oil=20w50 motor oil. The add package is different sulfur in the gear oil will damage the softer metals in the engine. Here's a good chart. 53ez82p1xgbdzuy8ma1qotwh-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Viscosity-Chart.jpg
Justin Noker would be interesting though because there are products out there that basically just thicken the oil.. like bardahl nosmoke.. I wonder how thick is too thick if you're in a pinch.
Great video. Where I work our garage department uses 15w-40 for every engine. Ranging from small 4 cylinder suvs to heavy duty diesels. It makes my skin crawl but each vehicle seems to run just fine. Some vehicles have 100k miles and they are just truckin. Your video puts the science behind the madness although I could never do it to one of my cars. Thanks again and keep the videos coming!
First off, I love your videos! This one is particularly good, as working in the auto parts business for many years, j have a lot of people come in with the common misconception that you can’t switch between conventional and synthetic, or that synthetic is somehow mysteriously thinner than a conventional oil the same weight. To put it plain and simple, synthetic doesn’t even mean it’s made in a laboratory, it just means it was refined a certain way, and it’s actually sad how they allow companies to almost falsely advertise oil as one or the other.
Great information. I have been cleaning off my shelf full of orphan motor oils, just adding to my 1993 Jeep YJ 4.0. With 300,000+ miles. So far so good. Thanks.
That was really interesting. I'd like to see you test different types of thick grease under heavy load on the bearing tester. In particular red line synthetic wheel bearing grease.
👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️ I love it! Been waiting for mixes!! More! More! More! Next how about oil additives being mixed together?!?! Definitely one of the top uTube channels to get into, yay Project Farm!
When i owned a Tire and oil change shop, it came with a 100 gallon tank *Full or "drainback" oil.* The previous shop owner always put the empty quarts upside down and that Littke Bit of oil that Drained Back added up, He had sold that oil for super cheap. 👍
I have a mason jar I use for that, it’s just enough oil to fill up my oil cans and lube random stuff that needs oil. When I add it to my oil cans I also mix it with some ATF for added slickness.
Everyday stuff glycol-based Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 compatible with each other then the silicone-based Dot 5 brake fluids used in Racing, Motorcycle and Military applications other then that there no point in testing as only main diff in Dry and Wet Boiling point
I used to have a $400 Subaru with over 300k miles on it. Car ran okay still, but had some fairly major engine leaks plus it burned oil. I'm pretty sure I had you beat in number of types of oil put into a vehicle. When you're adding a quart a day, you just use whatever you can get cheap. Often this was used oils of various viscosities, straight 30 weight small engine oil. Often I ran some 15W40 diesel oil a local farm supply store sold for really cheap in five gallon jugs. I don't know what damage all these various oils caused to that car, but I put about 25,000 miles out of that car. The engine was still running fine, but the trans gave out.
Subarus are known for burning oil. Subaru even has said that burning a quart every 1000 miles or so is normal. Personally, I think they are junk if they do that.
@@TempoMontages You must realize, it may not, in fact, even be burning oil. Oil may have gotten trapped in certain areas in the engine. Maybe the head or other plateaus within. Or its burning oil....lol.
Since I'm living down here in Florida and we're staring at a hurricane , I thought why not test various plywood ? All 3/4 inch . CDX vs. OSB vs. press board floor decking ( the not CDX stuff ) vs. particle board for shear strength and impact resistance . You can have a little more fun with it by getting a sheet of the radiant back plywood and finding out if it actually does what it's supposed to .
He basically already tested this. The real problem with plywood/osb sheathing isn't punctures but having the wind rip it off. He's tested various types of screws already.
@@RedfishCarolina Read the comment . It helps. What im asking has nothing to do with screws . It has to do with shear force (tear it in half) of the wood itself and impact strength . Fyi fender washers help when attaching plywood for storms .
I just love watching these tests. My old Dad never changed engine oil on any car he ever owned. He just kept topping up with whatever cheapest brand he could find at random filling stations. His cars were wrecks when he bought them, and were still wrecks when he junked them, but it was always the bodies that fell to bits before the engines.
Adam A not jugs, a lot of quart bottles w/ some partially full. Amsoil, Redline, M1 AP, M1 EP, and I think there was some Idemitsu in the cylinder head from the last oil change. I’m weird I try different oil brands. The oldest was maybe 6 years but oil doesn’t expire if it’s stored indoors.
All oil must mix, Federal law. Full synthetic is 49% conventional oil. Amsoil is the only 100% synthetic, or so they say. It's the different additives mixing you have to worry about. Depending on what the oil is designed for, it can be 20% additives, oil companies have their proprietary blends and don't have to say what their adding. Excellent video BTW.
Thank you Project Farm for an informative video. Knowing that I can use different brands and vicosity as long as they meets GM, MB, VW ect. requirments is a relief. Good job!
As an ASE certified tech, amazing video, honestly. It is a common myth that switching back and forth between full synth and conventional is a bad idea but that's not true. On some high mileage engines some seals might be worn and thinner synthetic oil can get by. With oils now a days you can go way more then 4500 mi between oil changes. I use Shell Helix Ultra here in France and prob went one year and 10k miles between oil changes and haven't noticed any issues. Car runs great, no extra smoke or noises, came out relatively clean as well.
I can't say that there would be a drastic difference in oil use or leakage, but. 20+ yrs ago I worked at an oil change place. Our house brand oil was Citgo, and stored downstairs in tanks and fed by pump/hoses. normally what you would see in a oil/lube place. We did offer other oils if people preferred and wanted to pay the difference. These oils were stored in drums in a corner of the shop. Each oil had its funnel/bucket. After some time there would be a definite build-up of "stuff" in the bottom of the Penz-oil buckets. Remember, these are for new oils only. The stuff in the bottom of the Penz-oil container looked kind waxy just like a thicker oil. I suspect this stuff that settled out of PZ would coat the engines some. My father in law always said he had less leaks when he used Penz-oil. I would believe it if that stuff stuck in the cracks. I'm not judging any oil better than another, just stating what I saw in the bottom of the bucket.
@@krazybubba2579 The only issue is the chunky carbon sludge still builds up. New oil will dilute the old oil, so it does improve it. So long as you still change it at the correct intervals you'll be okay. However if you forget to change it because you're always adding new oil, the thicker stuff is still staying behind and sludging up your engine and hardening your oil seals
@@maulerrw thats not a given. oil that still has active detergents and therefore a positive TBN will not sludge. so if you add oil and it increases the detergency back to acceptable levels, it will continue to suspend the bad stuff so it can be caught by the filter. regular oil will still break down, and eventually the add in oil wont be enough to keep viscosity appropriate, but with synthetic it is certainly possible to just keep adding and changing filters. i have an old dodge minivan with over 250k miles that burns oil. i add a qt of valvoline maxlife full synthetic 10w30 about every 1500 miles and change the filter every 5k. i wouldnt do it to something nice, but my engine has no signs of sludge buildup and it was 1000 bucks so i really dont care.
The test was not long nor in depth enough to make that determination. The lab even stated longer test times would be needed for more accurate results regarding metals. Rod bearings would have to be inspected before and after the test at minimum. As well as testing the oil pump. There are important reasons why manufacturers dictate the oil which should be used in their engine. Basically, there is not enough evidence at this time to determine nothing will be hurt by mixing oils.
I think the important take away here is that if you are on the road and find yourself low on oil you can fairly safely throw about anything in to bring the level up.
@@0neTwo3 though diesels with dpf that's playing with huge stack of cash to possibly have to replace it. They use specific oils to have very little ash particles, which can kill dpf in very short time. But some basic car, that's absolutely true that you can fill it out with almost any oil temporarily. Though I'd still strongly advice against using that for extended periods
I wonder if it is possible for you to measure how much debris a range of oil filters can hold before a significant pressure drop occurs from the filter media becoming clogged. This kind of test seems to be the next hurdle to tackle given that the oils seemed to still be okay at 4,500 miles.
Higher end filters will tell you the mileage that they're good for. The easiest answer is to run Fram Ultra which they rate for 20k miles, so it should easily handle 2x oil changes before needing to be replaced. Fram Ultra is so good that it's the default answer to "what filter". $8 and it beats $15 filters from other brands.
@@someusername121 you should never ever use old oil filter after the change, as well as never trust the "20k miles", neither oil nor filter. Replace both every 7k miles MAX (4-5 is better) and your engine will thank you.
Excellent video too watch as I sit here waiting to get hammered by Dorian! I just picked up about 50 qts of all different types of oil Helped a guy clean out his barn, b4 hurricane hits ill probably run it all mixed together in my old dodge w200.
Hate to say but I’ve done the same thing. Had to clean out a bunch of 1 quart quantities for everything I had; miatas, bmws, pick ups suvs and a diesel oil too (that was used in a generator). I poured the whole lot into 2002 Chevy Tahoe and she digested it like it was nothing. 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 0w40, 10w40 and 15w40. Probably the best oil change the Tahoe ever had. I don’t think older pushrod Chevys care.....
Wow, I missed this one and it is something most of us home oil change guys and gals have wondered about. I often run short a quart and add something different either a 5w-30 to a 5w-20 or vice versa and/or a different brand. I've been using Valvoline Max Life Syn Blend since reading Bob The Oil Guy's page as the best value vs performance. The warning about viscosity is well said. The F150 5.4 Triton motors have specific requirements due to the oil passage sizes in the motor. Use the wrong oil and you could be looking at $7,000.
This is great!! Love the testing methods, thoroughness, and unbiased opinions! Keep it up sir! Also, would love to buy a ball cap with the PF logo!! This would be epic ❤️
Sorry it has taken me so long, but I finally have some new and improved merch! teespring.com/nl/stores/project-farm
Project Farm First off love your vids man. Second would for you to test an oil catch can on a lawn mower to see if it works or if it make the difference??
Do a video we can do to see if Lucas Oil stabilizer works/increases viscosity
Hey PF, obviously you use lots of small engines for your videos. I'm looking for a new mower and I'm wondering where you get yours.
Thanks
Hey Project Farm, I was wondering... Can you use a small amount of Nitroglycerin to revitalize old stale Ethanol Gasoline?
Hi PF. I was buffing out my headlight over the weekend and was wondering what you think about the headlight restore kits. Would love to see what works the best. I used the 3m kit(FYI) headlights look brand new. Just hope you would enjoy doing that. Thank you.
I love how he smiles through the whole video he truly loves his job and that’s why his videos are so great
Thanks so much!
really is this called a job? the smile reminds me psycho than normal people
@@malvasia17 & what if doing the video's keep's him sane!..... the plot thickens
honestly brightens you up, doesnt it? :)
TH-cam isn’t a job dummy….. it’s what losers do who have no job.
People on car forums: What oil you guys use?
Project Farm: All of them...
lol. Thank you!
True answer is Yes
Me it matters? P. Farm: Yes.
Bought a Subaru with 116k on it about 20 years ago. Never paid attention to what oil I put in it . Always conventional usually Wal Mart. Never drained the oil. Had toilet paper filters on the oil and ATF. It has almost 250 k on it now. Took off a valve cover and it was very clean. My daughter took it over. Have to pay more attention to it.
Organic EVOO
I've said it before.
This guy goes Above and Beyond with all the tests he does.👍👍👍😊
Thank you very much!!!
Amen
Project Farm You are my science teacher
He was making rookie mistakes early on though with his testing (lets use two very different old engines with unknown usage in their lives and see which blows up first without oil after using slick50/similar in one of them.) he has gotten way better since then. Got to have consistency in the control and variables or the experiment means nothing.
I agree - well done
I love this channel. No annoying intro, straight to the point and very informative. You have steered me in the right direction numerous times! Thank you!
You are welcome! Great to hear!
Agreed on the those annoying intros. Most of the time I have to jump around to see if there is any value. You don't need to do that with PF He is great.
Her: are you watching that oil guy again?
Me: you just don't understand, it's science!
lol. Thank you!!
Very solid science actually. Whether intentionally or not, this channel does very well in following the scientific methods.
HAHA. Absolutely brother. My Pops shakes his head in disbelief often when he hears the days topic. Might even have been a little eye roll involved during the "Head & Shoulders for engine oil episode. I truly love this channel.
As a Bitoger, I'm a oil guy. Love the subject.
Dang I get the same thing lol
I feel like if you need oil in a emergency, any type of oil is better than no oil at all.
Yes, you are right!
Truth
but only to get you out of trouble until you can next change all the oil
I’m agree with you
SAE30 in Miami is about the same as 5w30
When I was young and poor, I had a f-100 that ran fine but used a quart of oil every 800 miles. The manager of the local jiffy lube used to save a couple of cases of empty oil bottles for me. From these "empty" oil bottles I could turn them upside down overnight and get a quart or so. Viscosity didn't matter to me. It did fine.
Nice! Thanks for sharing this experience.
Had an old ranger that did the same. About a quart every 1000, though. We'd add a quart of STP treatment because it was so thick. Loss was about a quart until the next change after that.
The chicken and the egg... Maybe the reason why it was burning oil, was because it was the wrong oil type?
Older engines do better with thicker than manufacturer recommended oils.
My Civic does that now. I will fix the oil burning, but topping it off will work fine for now.
@Papi Uuhmelmehahay
The clearances of the engine’s moving parts were measured on whole millimeters.
I tested this in 2007 on a 1992 GMC Jimmy 4.3L. Had no problems over a normal oil change. I worked at a quicklube and used a very similar mix of oils. Back then it was still in everyones mind that you couldn't even switch brands from oil change to oil change. So I wanted to go to extreme case. Thanks for sharing with the world!
You are welcome!
You should try bubbles, that’s what my 3 year old daughter uses in her lawn mower and it runs great.
Thank you for the video idea!
😂😂😅😂😅😂
hahahahaha your daughter is a genius and a great future career as a bubble engineer
Im like 'what tha.....*insert 90seconds of dopey thinkage* ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🇦🇺'
Project Farm I can’t wait for that video. It would be a great science video for the millions of kids schooling at home.
I knew this all along. I worked at a local oil place & kept all the residue oil from all the empty plastic containers & also big plastic bags used in the box oils. Mostly the weights were 5W20, 5W30, some 10W30, and some 0 weight oils. Even some Shell Rotella diesel. Some of these oils were semi-blend, some full synthetic, & some conventional. I wound up with at least 5 gallons of clean, new, mixed oil. I used some in my 250,000 mile Blazer with no ill effects. I also used some in a well worn Honda Accord with no ill effects.
Thanks for sharing.
Hahahahaha that’s funny. Imagine how many different types of protection was in that engine it must have the best looking valves and cylinders for that mileage.
You know its going to be a perfect day when you get to see the oil races
lol. Yes it is! It's very intense in the shop when the oil race is happening.
Some added racing sounds like NASCAR wouldn't hurt.
I would have lost the daily double. I had used Amazon to win but new Amazon second because of the heavier oils in the blend. Good thing I didn't put the cash down before post.
Anthony Bilodeau I use amazon basics for the price its great oil
LOVE oil races !!!
I always have mixed oils with no problems this video supports it. Thanks mate.
You are welcome!
"He who forgets oil shall summon the rods"
*-Compression 8.7:1
i saw that in Compression 16,5:1
Well said.
As an aside, that's about the same compression ratio of my '79 Trans Am. That Olds 403 was a gutless piece of junk.
Hahahaha
Amen 🤣
"The rods shall be summoned anyway."
- Revolutions 9 (k)
It’s insane how much effort you put into these videos. A simple “we appreciate you” may not be sufficient, but we really do. You for sure have one of the best channels on TH-cam.
Thank you very much!
TH-cam money
@@draymondgreenie7356he deserves it
Q: "What's the biggest difference between brands of motor oil?" ... A: "The color of the bottle." Any decent brand is compatible with any other. Thanks, great video (as usual!)
Adam, you absolutely 100% correct. It makes NO difference what reputable brand you choose....including store brands....Walmart, Rural King, etc. They're all manufactured to industry specs., pass the tests and certified as such. If the API certification says it meets whatever indicated on the container, you're good to go. The armchair experts can flame away....I couldn't care less. After nearly 50 years of operating all sorts of motorized vehicles and machinery, I've yet to lose an engine to catastrophic failure and I've always ran the guts out of them. Way back when I was a little boy driver I bought into the asinine 2000 mile change rule. I got tired of changing oil. I let it go to 6,000...then 10,000 and now with synthetics 15,000. I don't lose any sleep, haven't lost any engines in the ten years I've been running synthetic oil. I just bought a 2019 Tundra...showing 3900 miles on the odometer. Toyota going to give me a free oil change every 10,000 miles...their recommended regimen. I don't know what oil they'll put in, don't care. When it's my turn to start changing the oil, it'll be whatever synthetic is on sale and I'm planning on running it 20,000 miles between changes. Why? Because I have faith it'll be fine. If it comes apart.....hmmm, good excuse to trade it off.
His video series showing the differences in oil performance - especially when cold - shows there are some oils better in cold conditions *(start up) than others. It is well known that synthetics break down slower than regular oils. A bit of common sense and research can help if you want a very long life from your engines. Yes, mixing them isn't a big deal - heck they make blends already.
Maybe the color of oil itself, too.
I've always believed oil is oil, as long as it's slick it'll work just fine, but I also believe now to keep it with what the manufacturer suggests, like now mostly it's 5W20 or so
@@mark-wn5ek I'm with you. I used to do the same thing. Every 2000 miles. Now I go by what the car computer says. When it gets to 5% I change it, no matter the mileage.
I really appreciate this one! None of my vehicles use a full 5 qts of oil so I usually have anywhere between 0.1 to 1.5 qts of oil left over. I dont mix types or weights, but I always use that leftover and add it up with other brands leftovers. So I'd still run synthetic 5w20, but it'll be a little bit of Mobil 1, Shell, Royal Purple, etc. Usually just whatever is on sale at an auto parts store.
Thanks for sharing.
Do you run into any problems?
I have mixed different weights, brands etc over the years never had problems - the important thing is to keep it full and change the oil/filter frequently
@@kellismith4329 yes being 1 quart low of fresh oil is much worse than pouring a quart of sand to fill it or water. U must be mechanic too
Same here but with an eye on the temperature I'm not sure a little of one or the other even if just enough of different weights to top it off would make a big difference in anything.
All the companies needs quality rating from PROJECT FARM
Thank you for the positive comment!
I love how when he sees how good the oil flows when it is cold he commentates like its nascar. It makes my day so much better
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm please continue making videos it is the highlight of my day and I watch all your videos thaks
I’m not quite sure I understand this part of the test. Did the oil that finished first down the ramp do the best or the oil that finished last do the best?
@@Jonathan-hq8od Generally the oil that finishes first is better because it has a better flow rate, which is desirable in most cases. The faster the oil can flow the quicker it can be distributed over the metal-on-metal contact areas and therefore reduce wear.
I used to work in the auto industry. My fav customers belonged to the “ever since” club.
Ever since you changed my oil, my rear brakes squeak.
Ever since I hit that 400hp shot of nitrous, my rod went to outer space.
I stopped helping people with car problems after experiencing that enough times, same with computers, because every future problem is your responsibility now to them. All I do for them now is pull out my tuning laptop and check codes and sensor data for them, then send them on their way to a garage who are already dealing with insane bullshit from customers all day.
@@The_Fat_Turtle yet my dad asks me why I became a roofer instead of a mechanic.
To never deal with the BS that A LOT of people say.
My brother in law's next door neighbor's cousin said your scan tool ruined my battery and made my washer fluid reservoir leak,, and he is an expert that works at Jiffy Lube
@Brian B LOL. Well I would hope more than 10 cents if you are any good. I think 20- 25% is pretty good. The alternative is work for yourself and once you start thinking about all the expensive equipment that you would have to buy that your shop provides you for free, technical resources, taxes, regulations, liability, medical... the list goes on. Now that money you are making working for someone else doesn't seem too bad. But that's only if you are good AND know how to market and advocate for yourself.
You have become my go-to site for analysis of many different products. There are lots of opinion videos out there, but you actually do some scientific testing for results. Thank you so much!
You are welcome!
I love this channel so much. The energy is always so high. You never act forced to do videos, you have fun in your videos, and the laugh that you put in here and there just makes watching your videos relaxing. I like the information that I get from the videos, and the time that I've spent watching them never feels lost or wasted.
In summary: I really like the channel!
Thank you very much!
Starts engine with mixed oil. 2 seconds later - "So far, so good!"
I love your videos...
lol. Thank you!!
Name one person who puts more effort into his/her videos. I don't know of any.
Thank you!
steven crowder
@@ronbaer3436 Steven Crowder is a piece of shit
Agreed
Ian from Forgotten Weapons. The amount of travel, research, and networking he does to go to invitation only arsenals to show us what he does has to be comparable. True he may not be quiet as hands on, but the hours have to be similar. Both are exceptional education channels in either case.
The amount of work you put into your experiments AND videos is astounding. You never fail to amaze and teach! We love you, God Bless :)
Thanks so much!
I'd like to see a test on hand cleaners. For example GoJo vs Fast orange vs basic laundry detergent/ dish soap etc.
Great video idea! Thank you
I'd like to second this. Especially to test how different hand cleaners work against several common types of 'hand contaminants' such as grease, glue, paint/varnish, label adhesive, etc. I suspect different types of cleaners may work better or worse against different types of crud.
I've seen tests of hand cleaners before, but often they just test against dirt, which is the _least_ hard to clean off. I'd like to know what will get hard-to-remove stuff off my hands (without removing the skin in the process).
Fast orange gel is the best.
@@ProjectFarm I don't guess basic gasoline or diesel would count.
For sure lava
Haha Oil Testing Lab must be like “Oh hell no what now”
Lol
LMAO
I bet the lab guy question their own equipment and sanity when ever Project Farm send in some sample.
I always imagine the scientists who run the tests place bets on what they’re gonna find from Todd. 😂😂😂
"we've detected that the samples submitted was 5% bacon grease and 1% WD-40 which are both higher than average"
Now that's what you call a Multi-Viscosity Multi-Vehicle Engine Oil
You just made the perfect "Whatchamacallit" Engine Oil
Lol
A cauldron of dinosaur soup!😁😂🤣
Wow finally somebody answer the question been hanging around for a long while. Really appreciated your effort & time! All the way from Singapore.
Glad to help!
Do a video about putting the wrong type of antifreeze into the wrong type of car/truck (or simulated) and explain why it's good or bad.
Would be interesting
Thank you for the video idea!
The only "wrong type" is using conventional green in a system with aluminum and plastic, or using it to top up a silicate free coolant. Every manufacturer specific coolant is just their own take on silicate/phosphate free coolant. You could mix honda, nissan, toyota, and vw coolant all together in your car and not a damn thing would happen because they're all just similar takes on the same thing. The colors mean nothing.
Anything labeled for a specific make, and anything labeled as extended life are all the same thing and can be used interchangeably.
The only outlier is conventional green (which really shouldn't exist anymore)
Pretty much anything you're going to buy off the shelf is all the same thing
@@Xixu.co.6 I've got HOAT in my dodge charger
The short answer is - you can use any antifreeze if you change your antifreeze often. However, if you change your antifreeze as often as you change your thermostat for instance, the wrong antifreeze will eat the seals in your engine. You really don't want to know how I know that... it was expensive.
You should bottle the combo and sell it as "PF blended oil"
oak aged for 3 years
It might hold up better because the oil has different strength characteristics
The amount of effort to produce this one video is just amazing... i salute!
Thank you very much! At times I do struggle to find time for everything
Please keep making videos! You've become somewhat of a standard for me--my #1 "don't miss a single one" video.
Thanks, will do!
Now what happens if you add in 20 different gasoline detergent cleaners.
V power, techron, seafoam.
Yes!
I’m not the smartest man but I’m thinking you will get a lean code
Nothing happens...
@@steve5912 I even added diesel (small amount of course) fuel in my engine and nothing happened.
@@hmongxas1642 Not necessarily. Most fuel system cleaners these days are O2 sensor safe. Says it right on the bottle.
One of the very best channels on TH-cam. Thanks for all of the consistently excellent videos
Thank you!
Don’t ever stop making videos. I watch everyone of them
Thank you very much!!
I keep your oil lab in business , enjoy your videos , well thought out and useful , even for the old guy ( 63 ) .. I just did this actually in my Harley , I replaced the cam chest and had four quarts of different brands 20-50 and one 20-60 , just dumped them all together , runs fine , fixing to dump tomorrow and put fresh oil in .. Don't get excited over brands anymore , your lab and mine have proven that all the oils I use are fine time and time again ..
Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been a mechanic for 55 years, and have always been a believer in not mixing oils. I have several different oils on my shelves that have accumulated over the years. I let different ones use the lift to change oil. But after watching your video I’m not quite as worried to use up some of small amounts of oils kicking around!
Thanks Paul V
Paul Villeneuve I can't believe after 55 years you just found out it's okay to mix.. people make there own blend oil all the time my mixing
Thank you
My GF: If you keep talking in Poject Farm referneces, we're over!
Me: *Shell Rotella*
That's a lot of damage!
good thing you didnt tell her you were viewer sponsored
@@dethmaul please stop. It's a dead meme😂😂
Aww, i love it when he says that.
Not Chevron?
Test if transmission fluid really can be used as a clear for sludge in the engine
Thank you for the video idea!
I personally use a little MMO
I only used 12 ounces in the 7 quart capacity.
I don't like to thin out the oil too much.
@@ProjectFarm do it dude!
Diesel will
@@ProjectFarm ATF is used in Europe among old timer/barnfind car people to free pistons and "clean" flush the engine block...
Your testing/attention to details were exceptional. Your resolve towards these questions are as well commendable. I am sure many can find your supplied information extremely useful. I am also finding your videos problem solving and thought provoking. Many thanks amigo from Texas
Awesome, thank you!
It’s a great demonstration of how to conduct an experiment with available resources, controlling for variables and understanding the results and their limitations. The scientific method is alive and well.
You should try running 80-90w gear oil in an engine
Thank you for the video idea!
My prediction is it'll be too thick to properly flow, and the engine will seize as if there was little or no oil in there.
@@ProjectFarm 80w90 gear oil=20w50 motor oil. The add package is different sulfur in the gear oil will damage the softer metals in the engine. Here's a good chart. 53ez82p1xgbdzuy8ma1qotwh-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Viscosity-Chart.jpg
Justin Noker would be interesting though because there are products out there that basically just thicken the oil.. like bardahl nosmoke.. I wonder how thick is too thick if you're in a pinch.
Only in a very high MILAGE engine. Were your BEARING clearances are worn!
Great video. Where I work our garage department uses 15w-40 for every engine. Ranging from small 4 cylinder suvs to heavy duty diesels. It makes my skin crawl but each vehicle seems to run just fine. Some vehicles have 100k miles and they are just truckin. Your video puts the science behind the madness although I could never do it to one of my cars. Thanks again and keep the videos coming!
Thank you!
That's a good way to shorten engine life, especially in newer vehicles.
First off, I love your videos! This one is particularly good, as working in the auto parts business for many years, j have a lot of people come in with the common misconception that you can’t switch between conventional and synthetic, or that synthetic is somehow mysteriously thinner than a conventional oil the same weight. To put it plain and simple, synthetic doesn’t even mean it’s made in a laboratory, it just means it was refined a certain way, and it’s actually sad how they allow companies to almost falsely advertise oil as one or the other.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great information. I have been cleaning off my shelf full of orphan motor oils, just adding to my 1993 Jeep YJ 4.0. With 300,000+ miles. So far so good. Thanks.
Thank you!
The amount of time you put in for our 10 min or so of viewing is awesome thank you. Love this channel
Thank you very much!
That was really interesting.
I'd like to see you test different types of thick grease under heavy load on the bearing tester. In particular red line synthetic wheel bearing grease.
Great video idea! Thank you
@@ProjectFarm I'd be absolutely down for watching that test. Lots of grease types out there to try, even between various brands of the same type.
Love the video. Definitely one of the best channels on TH-cam
Thank you!
Awesome video great camera work and clear audio!
Much appreciated!
I'd love to see a spark plug shootout! Especially comparing iridium and e3 type plugs vs conventional.
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm can wait to see it!
aXBlackDeathXa e3 plugs are a gimmick
@@nicolaslosito5735 I'm sure plenty of people feel the same way. Precisely why I'd like to see unbiased testing and evidence from PF.
If you want to see a spark plug shoot out go buy a 5.4 Triton and just wait.
👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️ I love it! Been waiting for mixes!! More! More! More! Next how about oil additives being mixed together?!?! Definitely one of the top uTube channels to get into, yay Project Farm!
Thank you very much!!
I'm still waiting for the mixed additives torture test.
Handlotion?
If this ends well you will have single handedly start the art of craft engine oils. Everyone and there brother will have their custom mixes lol
lol. The Project Farm blend. Thank you!
Lol cocktail
Yeah bro I run a 5w-30 secret mix with hint of 20w-50 and a touch of Lucas
I like my oil martini's shaken, not stirred.
@@CoHxUnLoaDz98 Nice, but I'm telling you man, mix in some 2 part epoxy and she'll really purr.
By far the greatest channel on TH-cam
Thanks so much!
When i owned a Tire and oil change shop, it came with a 100 gallon tank *Full or "drainback" oil.* The previous shop owner always put the empty quarts upside down and that Littke Bit of oil that Drained Back added up, He had sold that oil for super cheap. 👍
That's interesting, Thank you.
I have a mason jar I use for that, it’s just enough oil to fill up my oil cans and lube random stuff that needs oil. When I add it to my oil cans I also mix it with some ATF for added slickness.
Would you consider testing dot 3, 4, or 5 brake fluids?
Thank you for the video idea!
Technically DOT 5.1.
@@Taluvian the silicone based
Actually I'd like to see brake fluid used as engine oil.
Everyday stuff glycol-based Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 compatible with each other then the silicone-based Dot 5 brake fluids used in Racing, Motorcycle and Military applications other then that there no point in testing as only main diff in Dry and Wet Boiling point
Damn it, you're good! I've done the several oil mix thing many times in the garden tractor and a couple really old cars. Excellent as usual!
Thank you!
I really loke how you keep numbers and understand how previous products never completely emptied and add too the next round of numbers. Well done sir.
Thank you!
You just invented the Heinz 57 Motor Oil of Choice.
lol
Anything is better than dirty oil
@Randy Ralls
You’re a dirty oil...yes you are...the way you flow...yyeahhhh
I used to have a $400 Subaru with over 300k miles on it. Car ran okay still, but had some fairly major engine leaks plus it burned oil. I'm pretty sure I had you beat in number of types of oil put into a vehicle. When you're adding a quart a day, you just use whatever you can get cheap. Often this was used oils of various viscosities, straight 30 weight small engine oil. Often I ran some 15W40 diesel oil a local farm supply store sold for really cheap in five gallon jugs.
I don't know what damage all these various oils caused to that car, but I put about 25,000 miles out of that car. The engine was still running fine, but the trans gave out.
Unless your desperate for oil and the only thing near is the gas station that sells oil at $10 a quart.
-_-
Subarus are known for burning oil.
Subaru even has said that burning a quart every 1000 miles or so is normal.
Personally, I think they are junk if they do that.
Weird my Toyota maybe burns 0.25 of a quart At the end of a 5000 mile oil change and it has 233k miles
I used recycled motor oil that I bought at K-Mart in my old F-250 that burned a quart for every tank of gas.
@@TempoMontages You must realize, it may not, in fact, even be burning oil. Oil may have gotten trapped in certain areas in the engine. Maybe the head or other plateaus within. Or its burning oil....lol.
Since I'm living down here in Florida and we're staring at a hurricane , I thought why not test various plywood ? All 3/4 inch . CDX vs. OSB vs. press board floor decking ( the not CDX stuff ) vs. particle board for shear strength and impact resistance . You can have a little more fun with it by getting a sheet of the radiant back plywood and finding out if it actually does what it's supposed to .
But Project Farm would need a rig to launch debris at 165MPH. Oh, wait, that sounds epic.
Great video idea!
He basically already tested this. The real problem with plywood/osb sheathing isn't punctures but having the wind rip it off. He's tested various types of screws already.
@@RedfishCarolina
Read the comment . It helps. What im asking has nothing to do with screws . It has to do with shear force (tear it in half) of the wood itself and impact strength . Fyi fender washers help when attaching plywood for storms .
@@ProjectFarm I would also love to see it!
I just love watching these tests. My old Dad never changed engine oil on any car he ever owned. He just kept topping up with whatever cheapest brand he could find at random filling stations. His cars were wrecks when he bought them, and were still wrecks when he junked them, but it was always the bodies that fell to bits before the engines.
Thanks for sharing.
I have 5 different 0W-20 oils mixed in my Honda engine. I was clearing out partial jugs and random quarts from my garage to free up shelf space.
i too have 5 jugs of 0w-20 laying around conveniently
Adam A not jugs, a lot of quart bottles w/ some partially full. Amsoil, Redline, M1 AP, M1 EP, and I think there was some Idemitsu in the cylinder head from the last oil change. I’m weird I try different oil brands. The oldest was maybe 6 years but oil doesn’t expire if it’s stored indoors.
All oil must mix, Federal law. Full synthetic is 49% conventional oil. Amsoil is the only 100% synthetic, or so they say. It's the different additives mixing you have to worry about. Depending on what the oil is designed for, it can be 20% additives, oil companies have their proprietary blends and don't have to say what their adding. Excellent video BTW.
Thanks for the feedback!
Feel like I’m sittin down listening to the pop I never had with this guy
Best channel on TH-cam as far as I’m concerned!👍👍
wow man, you’ve blown up! been here since 20k. KEEP IT UP. i remember your see through engine and using alcohol in a mower. love you man!
Thank you!
Wow...that's an enormous efforts producing this video. Well done. Keep it up.
Thank you very much!
Who is going to drive over and tell Scotty Kilmer?
lol. Scotty won't like this one.
Project Farm “That mechanic ain’t worth the salt in his blood!”
Heh heh heh...
@@christianflores3437 why you say that?
TENNSUMITSUMA that’s what Scotty might say
Thank you Project Farm for an informative video. Knowing that I can use different brands and vicosity as long as they meets GM, MB, VW ect. requirments is a relief. Good job!
Glad to hear!
As an ASE certified tech, amazing video, honestly. It is a common myth that switching back and forth between full synth and conventional is a bad idea but that's not true. On some high mileage engines some seals might be worn and thinner synthetic oil can get by.
With oils now a days you can go way more then 4500 mi between oil changes. I use Shell Helix Ultra here in France and prob went one year and 10k miles between oil changes and haven't noticed any issues. Car runs great, no extra smoke or noises, came out relatively clean as well.
What car/engine was that please?
@@zenden6564 Suzuki Swift Sport 2012, did it on my RSX-S too and had no.issues, took the valve cover off at 190k still like new.
@@bluej511 :D
Thank you!
Do you mean 10,000 miles or 10,000 kilometers?
I wish I had a dollar for every time I have heard someone say they changed brands of oil and now the engine uses oil.
I agree. I've driven the suburban over 5000 miles since filming this video and it's still running great and not using any more oil than usual.
It is possible when changing to synthetic to clean gunk that was sealing a leak.
@@WeSRT4 You have to have a very noticeable leak to make it significant w.r.t. normal oil consumption.
I can't say that there would be a drastic difference in oil use or leakage, but. 20+ yrs ago I worked at an oil change place. Our house brand oil was Citgo, and stored downstairs in tanks and fed by pump/hoses. normally what you would see in a oil/lube place. We did offer other oils if people preferred and wanted to pay the difference. These oils were stored in drums in a corner of the shop. Each oil had its funnel/bucket. After some time there would be a definite build-up of "stuff" in the bottom of the Penz-oil buckets. Remember, these are for new oils only. The stuff in the bottom of the Penz-oil container looked kind waxy just like a thicker oil. I suspect this stuff that settled out of PZ would coat the engines some. My father in law always said he had less leaks when he used Penz-oil. I would believe it if that stuff stuck in the cracks.
I'm not judging any oil better than another, just stating what I saw in the bottom of the bucket.
@@cheeto4493 when I was younger my uncle built engines for Sprint cars, he used Pennzoil and he saw the same thing. He always said it was paraffin.
How about a test to see if “topping off” extremely used motor oil (maybe 10,000 mile used oil) will better its properties?
Marc Hanson I drive a 90s vtec Honda I would love to know what a liter of new oil does to the 2/3rds used oil.
Thank you for the video idea!
@@krazybubba2579 The only issue is the chunky carbon sludge still builds up.
New oil will dilute the old oil, so it does improve it.
So long as you still change it at the correct intervals you'll be okay. However if you forget to change it because you're always adding new oil, the thicker stuff is still staying behind and sludging up your engine and hardening your oil seals
@@maulerrw thats not a given. oil that still has active detergents and therefore a positive TBN will not sludge. so if you add oil and it increases the detergency back to acceptable levels, it will continue to suspend the bad stuff so it can be caught by the filter. regular oil will still break down, and eventually the add in oil wont be enough to keep viscosity appropriate, but with synthetic it is certainly possible to just keep adding and changing filters. i have an old dodge minivan with over 250k miles that burns oil. i add a qt of valvoline maxlife full synthetic 10w30 about every 1500 miles and change the filter every 5k. i wouldnt do it to something nice, but my engine has no signs of sludge buildup and it was 1000 bucks so i really dont care.
I been driving this chrysler minivan with an oil leak and never change the oil or filter just add it when it starts ticking.
Love all of your unbiased videos. You do a great job at testing all these products and I thank you.
You are so welcome!
Me: What oil does your suburban take?
Project farm: Yes.
Lol
You have single handedly created a new category: boutique engine oil!
Sorry, but boutique oils have existed for a long time.
Thank you!!
Artisanal Home Blend Engine Lube™
Or AHBEL
I just seen you on motor trend this morning.
Congrats man , your making it big !
I allowed them to use one of my videos a while back.
Do you spend more time on the tests, or reading and replying to comments? You have the best channel on TH-cam
Short answer is you won't hurt a thing mixing oils.
My experience is any oil is better than none.
The test was not long nor in depth enough to make that determination. The lab even stated longer test times would be needed for more accurate results regarding metals.
Rod bearings would have to be inspected before and after the test at minimum. As well as testing the oil pump.
There are important reasons why manufacturers dictate the oil which should be used in their engine.
Basically, there is not enough evidence at this time to determine nothing will be hurt by mixing oils.
I think the important take away here is that if you are on the road and find yourself low on oil you can fairly safely throw about anything in to bring the level up.
Some oil additives don't play along with one another
@@0neTwo3 though diesels with dpf that's playing with huge stack of cash to possibly have to replace it. They use specific oils to have very little ash particles, which can kill dpf in very short time. But some basic car, that's absolutely true that you can fill it out with almost any oil temporarily. Though I'd still strongly advice against using that for extended periods
I've always been worried when I had to top up with a different brand. Thanks to your video I don't need to worry too much.
Thank you
I wonder if it is possible for you to measure how much debris a range of oil filters can hold before a significant pressure drop occurs from the filter media becoming clogged. This kind of test seems to be the next hurdle to tackle given that the oils seemed to still be okay at 4,500 miles.
Higher end filters will tell you the mileage that they're good for. The easiest answer is to run Fram Ultra which they rate for 20k miles, so it should easily handle 2x oil changes before needing to be replaced. Fram Ultra is so good that it's the default answer to "what filter". $8 and it beats $15 filters from other brands.
@Brown Man And when the filter goes into bypass then there is no filtering.
@@someusername121 you should never ever use old oil filter after the change, as well as never trust the "20k miles", neither oil nor filter. Replace both every 7k miles MAX (4-5 is better) and your engine will thank you.
@@someusername121 Fram is also known for breaking up the media and destroying motors
Many manufactures had the figure for debris pass through and at what concentration the by pass comes in
I don't know how I missed this one last year, solid video and I've always wondered about this. Thanks as always.
You are welcome!
Great video! You should do some testing on ratchet sets to see which are the best.
Great test idea! Thank you!
Fade Raven i put ford red in my lexus and ruined my radiator 😞
He'd need a hydraulic press like AvE's hydraulic wrench/ratchet thing. for a real proper test that is. And rounded nuts and a few knuckles to bust.
Go check out AvE if you want tool tests/reviews
Bro your on Motor Trend!!!!!!! Congrats!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much!
This was my idea I suggested! Thanks for doing it!
Thank you for requesting this one!
I really like watching your videos. Straight to point and no story or fluff. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Excellent video too watch as I sit here waiting to get hammered by Dorian! I just picked up about 50 qts of all different types of oil Helped a guy clean out his barn, b4 hurricane hits ill probably run it all mixed together in my old dodge w200.
Finally a true oil review. Thank you
Thank you!
Hate to say but I’ve done the same thing. Had to clean out a bunch of 1 quart quantities for everything I had; miatas, bmws, pick ups suvs and a diesel oil too (that was used in a generator). I poured the whole lot into 2002 Chevy Tahoe and she digested it like it was nothing. 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 0w40, 10w40 and 15w40. Probably the best oil change the Tahoe ever had. I don’t think older pushrod Chevys care.....
so true, they dont care at all
This is what I refer to as my lawnmower oil....lol. No point in buying anything special.
@@michaellong9802
Last time I cared enough, I just grabbed a bottle of cheap something from the gas station
@@michaellong9802 actually the mower requires non detergent straight grade oil
Thanks for experience ✔️👍
Always welcome
There’s molly in oil!?! I no what I’m getting before my next big night out! Thanks 👍🏼
Thank you!
Ozzy 😂🥳😂
Wrong Molly, brotha...😂😂😂
Ozzy Jetski Guy 🤣
Oh yeah,,,,,,,🤣
I have been curiously thinking about it for quite sometime now. Thank you.👌
Thanks for sharing.
My Car: Dam, we are really going to flavor town.
Wow, I missed this one and it is something most of us home oil change guys and gals have wondered about. I often run short a quart and add something different either a 5w-30 to a 5w-20 or vice versa and/or a different brand. I've been using Valvoline Max Life Syn Blend since reading Bob The Oil Guy's page as the best value vs performance. The warning about viscosity is well said. The F150 5.4 Triton motors have specific requirements due to the oil passage sizes in the motor. Use the wrong oil and you could be looking at $7,000.
I swear the work that goes into these videos is amazing
Thanks so much!
Her: are you watching a video about engine oil again?
Me: you wouldn’t understand
lol. Thank you!
Honey,why r you awake at 1 am watching videos of fucking lawn mowers??lol
On 20 second of video, I suggest, that all will be just fine.
You are right! Thank you
Loved the video no mind haters. Great enthusiasm and good review
@@ProjectFarm this video sucked! Sort it out man.
@@CannondaleF700, What kind a smack talk is that ? Stoopit.
@@augustreil I want to see shit blow up and overheat lol
Merica!!!!!!!!
This is great!! Love the testing methods, thoroughness, and unbiased opinions! Keep it up sir! Also, would love to buy a ball cap with the PF logo!! This would be epic ❤️
Thanks for the suggestion.
Just plain fascinating. Great job. Love your approach and scientific process.
Thank you!
The effort...I love it
Thank you!
You are still the best, covering topics most of us think about, be safe my friend always enjoyable and informative.
I appreciate that!