Been running Rotella t4 for about 40 years....in lawn mowers, motorcycles, hot rods, diesel tractors, old gas trucks, go carts. Never had an oil related issue in any of those. I buy it by the 55 gallon drum 👍
Wow, you are like the Indonesian people, they use HDEO for their motorbikes, the results are amazing, the head block is clean from oil sludge, the performance of the motorbike is like buying it new from the dealer, very useful for motorbike drivers who work hard like taxi motorbikes (you know, like a taxi but using a motorbike) because this oil drains long, the average replacement interval is up to 5,000 km #LongDrainIntervalComunityIndonesian
I have cummins 6.7, mostly on t6 5w40 with 650k miles, and when I got into engine due to some repairs, inner moving parts looked like new. The thing with synthetic , imo, it saves your engine dramatically comparing to conventional, is when you start it, It's not a secret, the most engine wear occurs on cold start, not hot and long pulling. Changing oil intervals were according to the cluster, which translates to every 15k or so. Sometimes it was longer than that. But I never pull on cold, it's ALWAYS warmed up, just like when you wake up, you have your coffee, or whiskey shot (every one has its own preferences) but its religious thing to me - never abuse the engine on cold.
I have 849,603 on my 94 12v. I run 10w30 t4 in the winter and 15w40 t4 in summer. My engine has never been apart. Still has 30 psi of oil pressure on hot idle and runs like it always has. I'm hoping to get a million miles out of it and then retire it.
@@gerardoramos7868 average working temps for oil is 200 degrees, closer to it better, but when it hits over 100F, I would start moving easy, and when it's fully warm, then I can push it. Sold my truck close to 800k miles on the clock. Didn't make it to the 1 mil club. But it still runs daily
I have 2000 TDI, run the T6 5-40. Had to take oil pan down because a stone put a crack in it. With 10K oil changes the bottom of the engine looked brand new, very clean, the cross hatch in the cylinders also factory new.
You Tuber: "Synthetic Oil Protection" did at around -40 degree (F) cold flow test with Amsoil 15W-40 and Shell T4 15W-40 and Shell T4 beat the Amsoil synthetic sample. He also tested Shell T4 with Delvac and Delo and Valvoline Blue all 15W-40 and Shell T4 beat all of them in the cold flow test he did.
Me too, been using Amsoil in everything for approx. 40 years. I successfully and comfortably retired in 2015 and continued using Amsoil products in all of our vehicles and toys. Then Bidenomics hit everyone really hard and we found our budget squeezed from every angle. In order to make up a little of the difference, I started using Shell T6 and Mobil 1 purchased from Walmart in 5 gallon containers saving me hundreds of dollars over the cost of Amsoil. I am still a lifetime Amsoil dealer, and hope to start using it again once America becomes great again...
Moly is a known AW for chains and cams. Boron can be either a dispersant OR an AW. It plates the cylinders like zddp. Some oils are using both Boron formulas. Guy below me has 650,000 miles with the t6 with hardly any wear! I use the t4 in a gas engine. I've used it along time in certain gas engines (better rings, better pistons, better valves and seats) but now it's dual rated. So it's no longer an issue. I think Delo 400 and Delvac 1300 are also dual rated. As soon as my back isn't hurting I've got something else to do i didn't really want to do on my vehicle and then I'll use the 10w30 the manufacturer recommended. What the guy below me is saying is the benefit of synthetic is it's polar bonded. That means it will stick to the surfaces better and longer than conventional. So the long term effect is hardly any wear. There was a study released several years ago that showed how long a polar bonded oil would stay on the surface versus how long conventional would. Believe me... it's a big big difference. The reason the old school engines would leak more synthetic oil back in the 70s and 80s was Amsoil and M1 were basically group 5 synthetic and group 5 synthetic back then had a history of eating the old school gaskets and seals. So the Society of Engineers got together with the manufacturers and they changed the quality of gaskets and seals so group 5 synthetic wouldn't destroy it. Then Castrol came along and engineered group 2 oil and made it into group 3 and they called it a synthetic. M1 had a problem with that and took them to court. The court favored Castrol's argument and so then the oil industry in America (it's not acceptable anywhere else) decided to use mostly group 3 oil and call it synthetic. Group 3 started as conventional oil and they refine it so well it changes molecularly. Group 3 synthetics don't ruin seals and gaskets. If they leak, it's not because it's synthetic. It's because the synthetic that was chosen is too thin within grade. Try a different brand. Castrol BP oils are typically thicker within range than say M1 or Valvoline. So that's the reason why back in the 80s the solution to a vehicle that lost some oil was to switch to castrol or just another heavier viscosity.
To me this begs the question of whether or not additives make oil inherently "better." Is it possible that synthetics don't need as many additives to perform and protect well?
Very interesting video! Thanks for sharing. One thing to keep in mind is the 5W viscosity for cold starts makes a ton of difference. Even in the Ford 6.7SD manual allows it. Are those results all from the same laboratory?
I put t5 on my Toyota 5vz, amc 360 v8, and modified LQ9 v8. I’ve had zero issues for thousands of miles and all engines are clean. Been doing it for almost 4 years
From my understanding the 5w40 variation contains more VII's which is why it tends to shear faster than the others in a shared engine/gearbox sump like a motorcycle. That's why I stick to the 15w40 in thst application.
That is some of the greatest diesel oil ever made fifty thousand on a change filters replaced at twenty three k and great reviews on out going used samples
I prefer t5 syn blend 15W 40 and do oil changes more often, doing laboratory analysis to know how to estimate how many miles to drive with an oil, according to alkalinity and acidity, TBN and TAN. Thanks for this video and this channel
(Motorcycle Related) Thank you for taking the time to give us the information we all have been thinking about. Myself and Others Really Appreciate your video. Well Done, we look forward to more great information in the future. Read Below.. REQUEST - If you have the time, could you do a comparison (including Ash) Comparing The Highly Acclaimed Rotella, Both Full Synthetic ~ “T6 15w40” & “T6 5w-40” Against Standard Motorcycle Oil Brand A. Or Brand M. Or Both. Same Chart (Love it) Same Viscosity or close to it as possible etc.. Thank You In Advance, -DGPT-
Just picked up a diesel pusher with a CAT C9. It’s a 2006 with 80k miles. My diesel mechanics at work recommended T5 or T6. They use Mobile at work, we have a mix of Kenworth, MAC, Freightliner, and International. I drive big rigs for a living.
Ey good video dude ! But you have shaeffer on one of you truck and I wonder how handle vs Rotella and why you never use amsoil or other brand ? Thanks dude !
I was using Amsoil 5-30 in a 2002 mercury villager every 5k then had 3 events were it overheated (thermostat/radiator etc failure).amsoil kept it protected.but after the 3rd event Amsoil couldn’t keep it smooth and quiet it felt like stalling and temperature will fluctuate.started using T6 5-40 as I remember using it with a VW Passat.and voila! 250k and running like new!
Interesting oil info on Rotella oil. I've run a lot of T4 & T6 in my 01,7.3 PS and sometimes blended. Along with Chevron 15/40 & Mobil and Lucas . There's so many variables to me about oil , I'd say that for the most part they are all good. Weather conditions and short trips and how you drive probably more important than the brand of oil you use . After 40 years as a truck fleet mechanic and seen many different oil used I would say not to many engine failures were do to oil . I've been around a lot mechanics/people that have there own opinions about oil. Personally I've probably wasted a lot of oil by changing to frequently but never had to do any engine work on my own vehicles including 50+ motorcycles that occasionally had the crap run out of them.
I've used chevron 15/40 in a lot of them. But in the last few years I've been using Rotella T4 or T6. I've been cutting the filters apart . After the first oil and filter change I rarely see anything in the filters.
Cool stuff , just joined your channel. I know this was 2 yrs ago. I have 2011 LML Duramax. Bottom line your recommendation for what oil should I be using ? Weight and brand. I live in California. Thanks, Heeb
I have not been able to find T6 Full Synthetic anywhere due to the supply chain interruptions, but thanks to this very informative video I see that T5 is a great replacement and even T4 that seems plentiful on the shelves. I will just go with what is available in this line up .
I went to Walmart the other day they had about 5 gallons of T4, 1 gallon of T5, and no T6 on the shelf. I got 9 gallons of oil at home so I should be able to ride this out for a while.
Yeah I've been to four different Walmarts and their shells are all empty of rotella products but somebody mentioned that if you take the Walmart price to O'Reilly's they will honor that
Another thing, I might be mistaken but I’ve used multiple fuel stations and when I filled up at the shell fuel station my truck felt like it ran much better I don’t know if there’s a difference between diesel suppliers but I swear they got better fuel. Mind yah I only own the truck a month or so but shell is my go to fuel station now. Anyone else find this besides myself?
Most of trucks 2016 and newer trucks work with 10w30 and 5w40 in diesel lineup so this chart makes sense why car manufacturers recommend to use 10w30 and to avoid 15w40 do to cold start for diesel engines it also shows that rotella t5 lineup is way better thanks for sharing this video it will save people alot of money in long run
@@artiedelimitros9443 yes but that's heavy for the engine they only recommend w40 for heavy towing do to extreme heat and pressure on the engine daily driving truck doesn't need w40 oil.
I run rotella t4 15w40 in my 350 small block in summer and rotella t6 0w40 in winter. Both with 1 bottle of STP oil treatment on top. Best combo for that application.
Looks like I should move to T5. Been using T4 on everything without a catalytic converter or with flat tappets. Gotta have enough additives to avoid wiping a cam lobe.
Just changed my 2015 dmax from always t4 to t5 it’s a lot quieter I think ima get better mpg my best is 26.9 coming back home from Smokey’s..a lot better oil pressure also
Without a doubt T6 it is the best oil not only among other Rotella brands but also when compared to all other brands. 1 Have been using it in all type engines motorcycles, cars, pickups, lawmovers, generators, and not the least my Freightliner semi tractor truck for years!!!!
15w 40 cheap stuff has been used in fleets for years and even the taxis that missed the oil partition of an oil change, put on the street until a noise was heard continued to be driven to 300-400k miles before being sold.
@@DarkLinkAD Well, in an effort to keep things on track. T5 would be the "cheap" 15/40 of choice. Outperforms most major brand oils at a fraction of the cost.
More additives is not always better... The synthetics have a significantly better base oil, thus they require less additives to meet wear protection specs. The cold pumping performance (even in the summer) of the full synthetics is enough of a reason for me to use the full synthetics. On top of that, the better evaporative loss properties of the full synthetic is really important to me as well.
Cold flow temp T5 beat out T6. A video was posted here on TH-cam a while back. I’ll try and find it. I use T5 yet still change at 4K. Now some will wonder why and say I waste oil and money. Well I’m guessing they never tore down an engine. Thanks for the video!!
@@dusdroadadventures7978 great cause I'm running t6 5w-40 in my 02 Lexus IS300 with the 2jz trying to clear up any left over varnish from the last owner.
Personally, I’m not overly knowledgeable about oils. I am however a big diesel guy, and I know a lot of people. Most every farmer I know runs T4 rotella, the big truck/equipment mechanics I know are quite fond of it, I personally have a customer with 2 trucks, a 1990 D350 and a 1993 dodge D350, both with 12 valves, both of these trucks are between 7 and 800,000 miles, he’s run nothing but T4 Rotella in both of them. One of them has never been apart, and the other just recently had the head gasket done (right before I became his go-to mechanic.). I was talking to one of the farm mechanics, a guy whose been doing it for 20+ years, (you may think ‘eww farm mechanic, he’s probably a hack’ but, say whatever you want about farm mechanics, they probably see inside more 20,000+ hour engines than anybody else.) I was telling him about this customers dodges, and I said ‘what oil do you think he uses?’ ‘Shauffers or rotella T4.’ (He orders T4 by the pallet.) Another example, you’ve got the 1.3 million mile Cummins Deboss Garage works on, owner ran T4 rotella & the lucas additive through it its entire life till the block cracked at 1.3 million between the #5 and #6 cylinder (which I believe is a common issue on the 12 valves.)
I don’t have anything on this oil but I know it to be good oil. Your truck probably left the factory with this oil in it. I would run a 5 or 15w40 oil in a 2015 though.
So, price aside, which one is best for a motorcycle with a wet clutch? My mechanic said T6 shouldn’t be used in my Africa Twin DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission). Any opinions?
I just bought a 2004.5 Chevy 2500hd duramax and I’m doing research on the best oil to use on my truck with 290,000kms and most people are saying 15w40 so I called shell’s customer service and they recommended 5w40 and that’s what I bought. I live in Newfoundland so it can get -20 degrees Celsius in winter months and summer months is usually between 15 to 30 degrees Celsius but not many 30 degrees days at all to be honest. So hopefully I didn’t make the wrong decision and screw up my truck because I went with a lighter oil!! 🤞also a mobile 1 m-303 oil filter came with the truck so im eventually going to do the cat filter with adapter or is the m-303 a good filter?
Hey there friend, interesting topic I sure appreciate it👌 Out of curiosity for my 2018 Volvo semi how many miles can I get out of the T5 540, or the T5 1540 oil, thank you Robert
Time to test synthetics in compact and sub-compact tractor engines as used in LS, TYM, John Deere, Kubota etc. The engine are usually around 1.4L engines. These little engines get worked hard in both cold and hot weather.
I've used all the major brands.....trust me I own a small trucking company and we do maintenance once a month. The t5 beats t4, t6, lucas ck-4, delo, delvac, coastal, wolfs head by a long shot. I do swear by adding 1 gallon of lucas oil stabilizer. My systems hold 9.5 gallons. I've never been brave enough, but I've heard great things about super tech. I wonder if you'd be willing to test it.
So I run She’ll Rotella T4 conventional heavy duty Diesel engine oil along with Lucas oil stabilizer. Am I able to switch to T6 synthetic? I know not all oil drains at the change and I think you can’t mix conventional and synthetic.
The base oil is what make T6 is more exspensive and superior to a sunthetic blend. A synthetic blend will always need more additives to make the oil perform. A PAO oil is better than group III.
I use T6 in my 18 6.7 Cummins I change my own oil every 5k or immediately after a long state to state fifth wheel camping trip. Is T6 good or is there something better. I live in a cabin in the Sierra part of California. I like the synthetic oil and the 5w 40
That’s what I run in mine t6 full synthetic and have for years but I run 5w40 because I live in the north so its easier to start because of the viscosity
Same…I too live in the Sierra part of California and I run the T6 5-40w in my 2018 Cummins … during the shortage of Rotella in the spring of 2022 I used the t6 15w40 and I swear I could feel a difference in towing my toy hauler and morning start ups once the colder temps rolled in . Thankfully I got the 5w40 before the snow hit this November and now I buy enough for a years worth of driving/ oil changes (I change my oil every 8k or 10k depending on driving conditions) . Unless I hear otherwise t6 5w40 is all I plan to ever run
@@OutpostCTD And you probably shouldnt be doing long oil change intervals anyway. Oil becomes acidic over time. Acid is corrosive. Even if you don't drive your vehicle it's a good idea to let the oil circulate every month and then still change it 3-6 months in to prevent acidity.
What most don’t realize is this conventional oils on the molecular level have inconsistent size and geometric structures reducing there ability to produce a consistent film on mating parts. Where as full synthetic oils have consistent structures making them better at uniformly coating mating parts causing better lubricity and less friction. This is also why the lubricity additives may be lower too because synthetics all ready have a lesser friction coefficient “slippery er lol” . It’s been my experience full synthetics all ways better to prevent early wear out of engines. Conventional base oils inherently have higher friction coefficients less slippery er lol which is why additives for lubricity are in higher numbers! That doesn’t mean the conventional or synthetic blended conventional oil is better. Like i said my engines last longer on pure synthetic oils with greatly reduced wear. Just been my experience. Paid more for synthetic oil and never had to replace a engine over the life of a vehicle. Can’t say that about conventional oil. With all their additives. Just sayin.
@@Jon-O. jon, I have 338.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am I bought new in june of 94 the engine has never been touched, even the timing chain is original. It runs and sounds like new. Never had any synthetic in it. Just Castrol GTX 10 30. I do run synthetic oil in my new car, and the one before this. But you definitely get very high engine mileage on conventional oil. Ive been driving 46 years, and all my cars up to 2017 ran on conventional, and I've never had an engine failure, ever.
So? You seem to discount conventional vs synthetic properties. Conventional oils need more help as opposed to synthetic which have a more uniform molecular size where conventionals vary more.
I'm thinkin about mixing 15w an 5w t6 to make 10w40. I Could then run it in everything i own (ATV, Zero turn Mower, Push mower, Kids ATV.) This should be fine because both are JASO MA. Opinion?
I have run T6 5w 40 for many years now in every truck tractor ATV UTV dirt bikes Even the race bikes and my mowers for many years now. I own a ATV repair shop and carry only T6 for all customer machines as well. You don't need to mix it. T6 goes in basically everything. The only machine i dropped back to T4 is the one old skid steer we hardly use because that skid steer gets water in the oil more then it ever runs so it is cheaper to dump T4 that is not used up then it is T6. When i did use it a lot it had T6 as well. This skid steer has the old Wisconsin air cooled engine. So just dump in some 5w 40 and enjoy.
@@eatshitful nice man thanks, I think I’ll run the 5w in the atv and generators since they get used in winter, and use the t6 15w40 in the zero turn since I already have it.
@@ikeyeet8312 Yep you will be fine. Most manuals show a range VS outside temp. The main thing with the thicker oils is the cold start but rotella is one of the best oils for staying stuck on metal parts negating some of the need for thinner oil. On the flip side rotella handles high heat better then many as well so running thinner in the heat is negated a bit to. Basically any rotella will out do most factory oils thus get away with a little out of range. You can really tell the quality of oil for cold starts when i open a engine and everything is already dry after only sitting a few days while i have opened a engine that sat for over 10 years that looked like it was shut off shortly before i opened it. Yep that was rotella T3 that stuck on for 10 years. Good move getting the kawasaki engine. One of the better engines these days. Briggs are no good anymore.
You would think the T6 would have a better add pack. I’ve used t4 and t6 I have not been able to tell a difference in my 6.7 cummins. But I’ve never done at oil test
Ive never heard a bad thing about rotella. I know it diesel oil but its got a huge following in the gas performance work. T6 is comparable to some racing oils. At $25 a gallon and available practically everything is impossible to beat
If your engine is old and clapped out with a lot of miles theres nothing wrong with using thicker oil, especially for older engines. Don't do this to newer cars with VVT and high tolerances and stuff. Older clapped out engines love thicker oil. It quiets them down and stiffens them up from the inside.
i bought the T4 today because i need the zinc for my flat tappet 302 small block in my zephyr 2dr i bought the lucas stuff and its good. also cost 45+ for the same amount
how about a SHELL t4 5w30 t5 5w30 for us race car guys here.......... 15-40...i have used it..like it, but looking for a thinner one......with alllll the goodness...
I;m just wondering what kind of degree this guy has. Is he at least a tribologist. I don't know much about this guy I just came across this as I was scolling other diesel additives. Hopefully he is at least a tribologist.
Been running Rotella t4 for about 40 years....in lawn mowers, motorcycles, hot rods, diesel tractors, old gas trucks, go carts. Never had an oil related issue in any of those. I buy it by the 55 gallon drum 👍
55 gallons???! where do you even get that??
how much $$$ is it??
@@erxfav3197 I ordered online from Rural King. It's around $800
I've used T6 15-40W. It has a rating that is for motorcycles. It is JASO/MA rating.
@@bobwiley6221 right on.
Wow, you are like the Indonesian people, they use HDEO for their motorbikes, the results are amazing, the head block is clean from oil sludge, the performance of the motorbike is like buying it new from the dealer, very useful for motorbike drivers who work hard like taxi motorbikes (you know, like a taxi but using a motorbike) because this oil drains long, the average replacement interval is up to 5,000 km
#LongDrainIntervalComunityIndonesian
I have cummins 6.7, mostly on t6 5w40 with 650k miles, and when I got into engine due to some repairs, inner moving parts looked like new. The thing with synthetic , imo, it saves your engine dramatically comparing to conventional, is when you start it, It's not a secret, the most engine wear occurs on cold start, not hot and long pulling. Changing oil intervals were according to the cluster, which translates to every 15k or so. Sometimes it was longer than that. But I never pull on cold, it's ALWAYS warmed up, just like when you wake up, you have your coffee, or whiskey shot (every one has its own preferences) but its religious thing to me - never abuse the engine on cold.
I use the whiskey to brush my teeth with. I can quit anytime I want.
I have 849,603 on my 94 12v. I run 10w30 t4 in the winter and 15w40 t4 in summer. My engine has never been apart. Still has 30 psi of oil pressure on hot idle and runs like it always has. I'm hoping to get a million miles out of it and then retire it.
On 30 degrees of weather how long should I wait to warm up engine
@@gerardoramos7868 average working temps for oil is 200 degrees, closer to it better, but when it hits over 100F, I would start moving easy, and when it's fully warm, then I can push it. Sold my truck close to 800k miles on the clock. Didn't make it to the 1 mil club. But it still runs daily
Well put
GREAT video!
Thank you!
You’re definitely helping people here!
I appreciate you doing this!
I have 2000 TDI, run the T6 5-40. Had to take oil pan down because a stone put a crack in it. With 10K oil changes the bottom of the engine looked brand new, very clean, the cross hatch in the cylinders also factory new.
Great video, excellent information! Supports the T5 15-40W I just purchased for my 2022 6.7L Ford diesel truck. Keep up the good work, much thanks!!
You Tuber: "Synthetic Oil Protection" did at around -40 degree (F) cold flow test with Amsoil 15W-40 and Shell T4 15W-40 and Shell T4 beat the Amsoil synthetic sample.
He also tested Shell T4 with Delvac and Delo and Valvoline Blue all 15W-40 and Shell T4 beat all of them in the cold flow test he did.
He compared mineral shell to synthetic ams oil. That test was bs because he compared apples to oranges.
Thanks for this. Never knew the difference between all these and hadn't made the effort yet, if ever, to do a comparison.
InstaBlaster
Great information in video. I am a Amsoil guy, but I have used the Rotella in the past and liked it.
Me too, been using Amsoil in everything for approx. 40 years. I successfully and comfortably retired in 2015 and continued using Amsoil products in all of our vehicles and toys. Then Bidenomics hit everyone really hard and we found our budget squeezed from every angle. In order to make up a little of the difference, I started using Shell T6 and Mobil 1 purchased from Walmart in 5 gallon containers saving me hundreds of dollars over the cost of Amsoil. I am still a lifetime Amsoil dealer, and hope to start using it again once America becomes great again...
Just bought t5 blend coming over from many years of delo 400 15/40 and putting 250000 on a99 7.3l with it. More confident after seeing this thanks.
Why do you have tide for a picture profile? 😂
Moly is a known AW for chains and cams. Boron can be either a dispersant OR an AW. It plates the cylinders like zddp. Some oils are using both Boron formulas. Guy below me has 650,000 miles with the t6 with hardly any wear! I use the t4 in a gas engine. I've used it along time in certain gas engines (better rings, better pistons, better valves and seats) but now it's dual rated. So it's no longer an issue. I think Delo 400 and Delvac 1300 are also dual rated. As soon as my back isn't hurting I've got something else to do i didn't really want to do on my vehicle and then I'll use the 10w30 the manufacturer recommended. What the guy below me is saying is the benefit of synthetic is it's polar bonded. That means it will stick to the surfaces better and longer than conventional. So the long term effect is hardly any wear. There was a study released several years ago that showed how long a polar bonded oil would stay on the surface versus how long conventional would. Believe me... it's a big big difference. The reason the old school engines would leak more synthetic oil back in the 70s and 80s was Amsoil and M1 were basically group 5 synthetic and group 5 synthetic back then had a history of eating the old school gaskets and seals. So the Society of Engineers got together with the manufacturers and they changed the quality of gaskets and seals so group 5 synthetic wouldn't destroy it. Then Castrol came along and engineered group 2 oil and made it into group 3 and they called it a synthetic. M1 had a problem with that and took them to court. The court favored Castrol's argument and so then the oil industry in America (it's not acceptable anywhere else) decided to use mostly group 3 oil and call it synthetic. Group 3 started as conventional oil and they refine it so well it changes molecularly. Group 3 synthetics don't ruin seals and gaskets. If they leak, it's not because it's synthetic. It's because the synthetic that was chosen is too thin within grade. Try a different brand. Castrol BP oils are typically thicker within range than say M1 or Valvoline. So that's the reason why back in the 80s the solution to a vehicle that lost some oil was to switch to castrol or just another heavier viscosity.
To me this begs the question of whether or not additives make oil inherently "better." Is it possible that synthetics don't need as many additives to perform and protect well?
Definitely will be sticking with T5 in my 03 after watching this
Thank you so much for posting this.
Very interesting video! Thanks for sharing. One thing to keep in mind is the 5W viscosity for cold starts makes a ton of difference. Even in the Ford 6.7SD manual allows it. Are those results all from the same laboratory?
I put t5 on my Toyota 5vz, amc 360 v8, and modified LQ9 v8. I’ve had zero issues for thousands of miles and all engines are clean. Been doing it for almost 4 years
which do you recommend? T5? over the others?
Interesting. Thanks from West Tennessee
From my understanding the 5w40 variation contains more VII's which is why it tends to shear faster than the others in a shared engine/gearbox sump like a motorcycle. That's why I stick to the 15w40 in thst application.
That is some of the greatest diesel oil ever made fifty thousand on a change filters replaced at twenty three k and great reviews on out going used samples
I prefer t5 syn blend 15W 40 and do oil changes more often, doing laboratory analysis to know how to estimate how many miles to drive with an oil, according to alkalinity and acidity, TBN and TAN. Thanks for this video and this channel
(Motorcycle Related) Thank you for taking the time to give us the information we all have been thinking about.
Myself and Others Really Appreciate your video. Well Done, we look forward to more great information in the future.
Read Below..
REQUEST - If you have the time, could you do a comparison (including Ash) Comparing The Highly Acclaimed Rotella,
Both Full Synthetic ~ “T6 15w40” & “T6 5w-40” Against Standard Motorcycle Oil Brand A. Or Brand M. Or Both. Same Chart (Love it) Same Viscosity or close to it as possible etc.. Thank You In Advance, -DGPT-
I use HDEO oil for the 2011 Honda Beat, its performance is very good
Just picked up a diesel pusher with a CAT C9. It’s a 2006 with 80k miles. My diesel mechanics at work recommended T5 or T6. They use Mobile at work, we have a mix of Kenworth, MAC, Freightliner, and International. I drive big rigs for a living.
Use t5 in my diesel mower and truck. I buy the 10 quart jugs and it well worth the extra dollar a gallon than regular rotella
Ey good video dude ! But you have shaeffer on one of you truck and I wonder how handle vs Rotella and why you never use amsoil or other brand ? Thanks dude !
I may try the t5 now. I use t4 and marvel mystery oil in everything at the moment. Seems to do good
I am guessing with the lower viscosity report on the 15w40, the oil psi will be lower with synthetic oil?
The T5 and t6s perfect oil for outboard engine with the right editives.
I was using Amsoil 5-30 in a 2002 mercury villager every 5k then had 3 events were it overheated (thermostat/radiator etc failure).amsoil kept it protected.but after the 3rd event Amsoil couldn’t keep it smooth and quiet it felt like stalling and temperature will fluctuate.started using T6 5-40 as I remember using it with a VW Passat.and voila! 250k and running like new!
Ford motorcraft oil increased operating temp for me.
Is good for this Jetta 2015 diesal
Interesting oil info on Rotella oil.
I've run a lot of T4 & T6 in my 01,7.3 PS and sometimes blended. Along with Chevron 15/40 & Mobil and Lucas .
There's so many variables to me about oil , I'd say that for the most part they are all good.
Weather conditions and short trips and how you drive probably more important than the brand of oil you use . After 40 years as a truck fleet mechanic and seen many different oil used I would say not to many engine failures were do to oil . I've been around a lot mechanics/people that have there own opinions about oil.
Personally I've probably wasted a lot of oil by changing to frequently but never had to do any engine work on my own vehicles including 50+ motorcycles that occasionally had the crap run out of them.
What did you run in your motorcycles?
I've used chevron 15/40 in a lot of them. But in the last few years I've been using Rotella T4 or T6. I've been cutting the filters apart . After the first oil and filter change I rarely see anything in the filters.
Cool stuff , just joined your channel. I know this was 2 yrs ago. I have 2011 LML Duramax. Bottom line your recommendation for what oil should I be using ? Weight and brand. I live in California.
Thanks,
Heeb
Could you please post the spec sheet from the lab?
I have not been able to find T6 Full Synthetic anywhere due to the supply chain interruptions, but thanks to this very informative video I see that T5 is a great replacement and even T4 that seems plentiful on the shelves. I will just go with what is available in this line up .
I went to Walmart the other day they had about 5 gallons of T4, 1 gallon of T5, and no T6 on the shelf. I got 9 gallons of oil at home so I should be able to ride this out for a while.
Yeah I've been to four different Walmarts and their shells are all empty of rotella products but somebody mentioned that if you take the Walmart price to O'Reilly's they will honor that
Just got 3 gallons from advance auto
Amazon has it I buy packs of 3 I only use 5.2 quarts
Another thing, I might be mistaken but I’ve used multiple fuel stations and when I filled up at the shell fuel station my truck felt like it ran much better I don’t know if there’s a difference between diesel suppliers but I swear they got better fuel. Mind yah I only own the truck a month or so but shell is my go to fuel station now. Anyone else find this besides myself?
Most of trucks 2016 and newer trucks work with 10w30 and 5w40 in diesel lineup so this chart makes sense why car manufacturers recommend to use 10w30 and to avoid 15w40 do to cold start for diesel engines it also shows that rotella t5 lineup is way better thanks for sharing this video it will save people alot of money in long run
Ya I noticed that. Why 10w-30 on a diesel?
@@artiedelimitros9443 probably they recommend it due to hot weather conditions in different states
@@banger881 I thought -40 is better in hot weather than -30
@@artiedelimitros9443 yes but that's heavy for the engine they only recommend w40 for heavy towing do to extreme heat and pressure on the engine daily driving truck doesn't need w40 oil.
@@banger881 so could it be used in a 5.9 then. I only tow about once a month 200 miles round trip.
So your saying to use T5 syn blend than the full syn T5 full syn ?
Great information, thank you!
I run rotella t4 15w40 in my 350 small block in summer and rotella t6 0w40 in winter. Both with 1 bottle of STP oil treatment on top.
Best combo for that application.
No one tests T5 "Ultra", and I'm curious to see the results. It's an FA-4 oil, which can only be used in 2010+ Detroit and 2017+ Cummins
Looks like I should move to T5. Been using T4 on everything without a catalytic converter or with flat tappets. Gotta have enough additives to avoid wiping a cam lobe.
Just changed my 2015 dmax from always t4 to t5 it’s a lot quieter I think ima get better mpg my best is 26.9 coming back home from Smokey’s..a lot better oil pressure also
@Outpost CTD - What experience in the oil industry do you have?
Without a doubt T6 it is the best oil not only among other Rotella brands but also when compared to all other brands. 1 Have been using it in all type engines motorcycles, cars, pickups, lawmovers, generators, and not the least my Freightliner semi tractor truck for years!!!!
Did you even watch the video? lol
15w 40 cheap stuff has been used in fleets for years and even the taxis that missed the oil partition of an oil change, put on the street until a noise was heard continued to be driven to 300-400k miles before being sold.
@@DarkLinkAD Well, in an effort to keep things on track. T5 would be the "cheap" 15/40 of choice. Outperforms most major brand oils at a fraction of the cost.
@@hbseth1867 T4 15W40 by the 55gal drum for my fleet
@@hbseth1867 commented before even watching lol
Is the 10w30 T5 all the same Zinc and Moly as the 15w40? (besides the obvious)
Great video facts instead of just opinions
Curious why moly only shows in the t5. What is the significance.?
More additives is not always better... The synthetics have a significantly better base oil, thus they require less additives to meet wear protection specs.
The cold pumping performance (even in the summer) of the full synthetics is enough of a reason for me to use the full synthetics. On top of that, the better evaporative loss properties of the full synthetic is really important to me as well.
Thanks for making this ..
Can you do test Mobil Delvac and delo to come pair to rotella
I have a kubota M9960 tractor what 15-40 oil should I use T4or T5?
How good is the shell rotella synthetic15w40 motor oil 4 a caterpillar motor
Where did you find this info? I'd like to find it for 10w30 T4, T5, and T6
Can you mix 10W30 & 15W40 in a Cummins ISX ???
What are your thoughts on using one of these in a flat tappet engine (like the Jeep Cherokee) that originally called for 10w30?
Perfect for flat tappet engines due to its high zzdp content.
One of the reason motocyclists love the stuff
Cold flow temp T5 beat out T6. A video was posted here on TH-cam a while back. I’ll try and find it.
I use T5 yet still change at 4K. Now some will wonder why and say I waste oil and money. Well I’m guessing they never tore down an engine.
Thanks for the video!!
I'd like to see some pictures, I always found clean valve covers interesting
@@carlbrooks90 next project I’ll post pictures
@@dusdroadadventures7978 great cause I'm running t6 5w-40 in my 02 Lexus IS300 with the 2jz trying to clear up any left over varnish from the last owner.
@@carlbrooks90 try BG works great. Oil treatment, oil additive and fuel. Best stuff on the market
Dude did you find that video?
That's good news I have running t-5 in my Ford 6.7 diesels
Awesome analysis! Thanks! I have a 2002 Chevy LB7, looks like I should use the T5? Comments?
My dad went 675k in 05 d max .. blew a hg on reg rotella oil wasn’t an issue
Rotella T5 15W40 is looking pretty good year rounf for my 1982 911 SC.
I put a tsp of powdered Molybdenum in every gallon of my 40 weight. Works wonders for wear.
Personally, I’m not overly knowledgeable about oils. I am however a big diesel guy, and I know a lot of people. Most every farmer I know runs T4 rotella, the big truck/equipment mechanics I know are quite fond of it, I personally have a customer with 2 trucks, a 1990 D350 and a 1993 dodge D350, both with 12 valves, both of these trucks are between 7 and 800,000 miles, he’s run nothing but T4 Rotella in both of them. One of them has never been apart, and the other just recently had the head gasket done (right before I became his go-to mechanic.). I was talking to one of the farm mechanics, a guy whose been doing it for 20+ years, (you may think ‘eww farm mechanic, he’s probably a hack’ but, say whatever you want about farm mechanics, they probably see inside more 20,000+ hour engines than anybody else.) I was telling him about this customers dodges, and I said ‘what oil do you think he uses?’ ‘Shauffers or rotella T4.’ (He orders T4 by the pallet.)
Another example, you’ve got the 1.3 million mile Cummins Deboss Garage works on, owner ran T4 rotella & the lucas additive through it its entire life till the block cracked at 1.3 million between the #5 and #6 cylinder (which I believe is a common issue on the 12 valves.)
Do you have anything on the valvoline premium blue I thought about running the synthetic blend 10w30 In a 2015 ram 3500 any opinion on that
I don’t have anything on this oil but I know it to be good oil. Your truck probably left the factory with this oil in it. I would run a 5 or 15w40 oil in a 2015 though.
@@OutpostCTD thanks for the reply
Interesting, watching two or three of these comparisons and the numbers are all different. Significantly.
Fantastic video sir.
Looks like the T5 takes the win for additives but does that hold true for the 10W-30? I'm curious about the zinc for flat tappet cams.
I have the report for the T4 10w30 Which has 1310 for zinc. The T5 10w30 is just synthetic blend. I m sure it has around the same
So, price aside, which one is best for a motorcycle with a wet clutch? My mechanic said T6 shouldn’t be used in my Africa Twin DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission). Any opinions?
Your mechanic is wrong, T6 is clutch safe
Can you do a Delo Delvac video
I just bought a 2004.5 Chevy 2500hd duramax and I’m doing research on the best oil to use on my truck with 290,000kms and most people are saying 15w40 so I called shell’s customer service and they recommended 5w40 and that’s what I bought. I live in Newfoundland so it can get -20 degrees Celsius in winter months and summer months is usually between 15 to 30 degrees Celsius but not many 30 degrees days at all to be honest. So hopefully I didn’t make the wrong decision and screw up my truck because I went with a lighter oil!! 🤞also a mobile 1 m-303 oil filter came with the truck so im eventually going to do the cat filter with adapter or is the m-303 a good filter?
Did you end up with a fucked up engine?
@@FilmsAustin I used shell rotella 15w40 after.
Hey there friend, interesting topic I sure appreciate it👌 Out of curiosity for my 2018 Volvo semi how many miles can I get out of the T5 540, or the T5 1540 oil, thank you Robert
5000 miles ideal drain interval
I wouldn't go pass 12k miles or 400 engine hours
👌👍
Oil analysis is cheap and best way to determine how good or bad oil protects engine from wear
Time to test synthetics in compact and sub-compact tractor engines as used in LS, TYM, John Deere, Kubota etc. The engine are usually around 1.4L engines. These little engines get worked hard in both cold and hot weather.
I've used all the major brands.....trust me I own a small trucking company and we do maintenance once a month. The t5 beats t4, t6, lucas ck-4, delo, delvac, coastal, wolfs head by a long shot. I do swear by adding 1 gallon of lucas oil stabilizer. My systems hold 9.5 gallons. I've never been brave enough, but I've heard great things about super tech. I wonder if you'd be willing to test it.
Supertech will change over time. More frequently then other brands.
How does t5 beat the t6?
@@Str8Rippin93 I’m curious too …Running t6 at the moment and it seems like maybe I should be running t5 on the 6.7 Cummins 😅
@@JuanVazquez-gg8nc im still wondering 🤣
@@Str8Rippin93 🤣
There are usually differences between identical bottles of oil, sometimes significant, in the amount of each additive
I got a 77 f150 ask napa guy what oil to use with zinc for flat tappett engine. Recommend t4. Also put it in my 62
So I run She’ll Rotella T4 conventional heavy duty Diesel engine oil along with Lucas oil stabilizer. Am I able to switch to T6 synthetic? I know not all oil drains at the change and I think you can’t mix conventional and synthetic.
It’ll be fine, yes you can mix conventional and synthetic; that’s called semi-synthetic.
Run T5 in my semi. Love it. I personally don’t think full syn is necessary in a big motor. It cost significantly more.
The base oil is what make T6 is more exspensive and superior to a sunthetic blend.
A synthetic blend will always need more additives to make the oil perform.
A PAO oil is better than group III.
Yup. Shell engineers expect less wear from the synthetic oil hence less wear additives.
EXACTLY... he's totally missing the fundamentals by only looking at these few additives.
I use T6 in my 18 6.7 Cummins
I change my own oil every 5k or immediately after a long state to state fifth wheel camping trip. Is T6 good or is there something better. I live in a cabin in the Sierra part of California. I like the synthetic oil and the 5w 40
That’s what I run in mine t6 full synthetic and have for years but I run 5w40 because I live in the north so its easier to start because of the viscosity
Same…I too live in the Sierra part of California and I run the T6 5-40w in my 2018 Cummins … during the shortage of Rotella in the spring of 2022 I used the t6 15w40 and I swear I could feel a difference in towing my toy hauler and morning start ups once the colder temps rolled in . Thankfully I got the 5w40 before the snow hit this November and now I buy enough for a years worth of driving/ oil changes (I change my oil every 8k or 10k depending on driving conditions) . Unless I hear otherwise t6 5w40 is all I plan to ever run
Wow, Interesting 👍
How much better are the base oils with the Synthetics?
How much of a benefit does it have over the additive packages of the lower cost oils?
Base oils probably better in the T6. Over longer oil change intervals it may hold up better than T4 but I think the differences are slight.
@@OutpostCTD And you probably shouldnt be doing long oil change intervals anyway. Oil becomes acidic over time. Acid is corrosive. Even if you don't drive your vehicle it's a good idea to let the oil circulate every month and then still change it 3-6 months in to prevent acidity.
@@SirXyloid Oil don't get acidity just because they sit. Should be obvious to anyone with any idea what oil is. Project farm proved it to.
What most don’t realize is this conventional oils on the molecular level have inconsistent size and geometric structures reducing there ability to produce a consistent film on mating parts. Where as full synthetic oils have consistent structures making them better at uniformly coating mating parts causing better lubricity and less friction. This is also why the lubricity additives may be lower too because synthetics all ready have a lesser friction coefficient “slippery er lol” . It’s been my experience full synthetics all ways better to prevent early wear out of engines. Conventional base oils inherently have higher friction coefficients less slippery er lol which is why additives for lubricity are in higher numbers! That doesn’t mean the conventional or synthetic blended conventional oil is better. Like i said my engines last longer on pure synthetic oils with greatly reduced wear. Just been my experience. Paid more for synthetic oil and never had to replace a engine over the life of a vehicle. Can’t say that about conventional oil. With all their additives. Just sayin.
@@Jon-O. jon, I have 338.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am I bought new in june of 94 the engine has never been touched, even the timing chain is original. It runs and sounds like new. Never had any synthetic in it. Just Castrol GTX 10 30. I do run synthetic oil in my new car, and the one before this. But you definitely get very high engine mileage on conventional oil. Ive been driving 46 years, and all my cars up to 2017 ran on conventional, and I've never had an engine failure, ever.
I ues the t4 because it's cheap to by which let's me change my oil more often
I like the t5 10w30
So? You seem to discount conventional vs synthetic properties. Conventional oils need more help as opposed to synthetic which have a more uniform molecular size where conventionals vary more.
I'm thinkin about mixing 15w an 5w t6 to make 10w40. I Could then run it in everything i own (ATV, Zero turn Mower, Push mower, Kids ATV.) This should be fine because both are JASO MA. Opinion?
I have run T6 5w 40 for many years now in every truck tractor ATV UTV dirt bikes Even the race bikes and my mowers for many years now. I own a ATV repair shop and carry only T6 for all customer machines as well. You don't need to mix it. T6 goes in basically everything. The only machine i dropped back to T4 is the one old skid steer we hardly use because that skid steer gets water in the oil more then it ever runs so it is cheaper to dump T4 that is not used up then it is T6. When i did use it a lot it had T6 as well. This skid steer has the old Wisconsin air cooled engine. So just dump in some 5w 40 and enjoy.
@@eatshitful nice man thanks, I think I’ll run the 5w in the atv and generators since they get used in winter, and use the t6 15w40 in the zero turn since I already have it.
@@ikeyeet8312 No problem. My zero turn called for 5-40 if i remember right. But i got the big kawasaki engine.
@@eatshitful I've got the Kawasaki 691v calls for 10w40 or 20w50 in hot areas. 15w40 should be fine.
@@ikeyeet8312 Yep you will be fine. Most manuals show a range VS outside temp. The main thing with the thicker oils is the cold start but rotella is one of the best oils for staying stuck on metal parts negating some of the need for thinner oil. On the flip side rotella handles high heat better then many as well so running thinner in the heat is negated a bit to. Basically any rotella will out do most factory oils thus get away with a little out of range. You can really tell the quality of oil for cold starts when i open a engine and everything is already dry after only sitting a few days while i have opened a engine that sat for over 10 years that looked like it was shut off shortly before i opened it. Yep that was rotella T3 that stuck on for 10 years. Good move getting the kawasaki engine. One of the better engines these days. Briggs are no good anymore.
You would think the T6 would have a better add pack. I’ve used t4 and t6 I have not been able to tell a difference in my 6.7 cummins. But I’ve never done at oil test
Ive never heard a bad thing about rotella. I know it diesel oil but its got a huge following in the gas performance work. T6 is comparable to some racing oils. At $25 a gallon and available practically everything is impossible to beat
T4 5 or 6 ???
I use T4 for my ISX Engine
i use rotella t4 in my 1970 flat tapped chrysler 318 gasoline engine , am i doing this corect or should i use differant oil like penngrade 10w30
If your engine is old and clapped out with a lot of miles theres nothing wrong with using thicker oil, especially for older engines. Don't do this to newer cars with VVT and high tolerances and stuff. Older clapped out engines love thicker oil. It quiets them down and stiffens them up from the inside.
Rotella makes a suv truck gas synthetic oil now
Ya my buddy runs delo 15w-40 conventional in his 93 Chevy K2500 with 270,000 miles on it. It seems to like it.
@@scottsmith6571 yes but the zinc levels are not high enough for older flat tappet cams thats why i sue the t4 it has lots of zddp
I would try some astroglide.
And I use all wixx filters
how about TBN
The moly makes it too slick for wet clutches (JASO MA/MA-2).
I use t5 for my turbo honda.
i bought the T4 today because i need the zinc for my flat tappet 302 small block in my zephyr 2dr
i bought the lucas stuff and its good. also cost 45+ for the same amount
Ive used many zinc additives and lubrimoly mos2 from napa with great results.
@@DarkLinkAD I've also used that as well no problems.
Castrol GTX "CLASSIC" is packed with zinc, only in a 20w50 to my knowledge
Wow
I just need to know what’s the best had good luck
With reg rotella .. 2015 dmax here with 620 rwhp averages 20 mpg hwy 24-25
+1 for T4
@@DarkLinkAD t5 hold a lot more oil pressure for me the same the whole 8k miles
so...15w40 dino oil every 3k will do.
I use t5 in my motorcycle and it works great
T5 Jaso ma/ma2 certified like t4 and T6? I've checked a few bottles and it was listed
as far as i'm aware .. T5 is not JASO MA/MA2 rated.
@@tranak23 works great,protects well
@@tranak23 whether it is or ain't,it works well and Vic riders swear by it as do Harley riders when it comes to the T6
@@tranak23 you are correct
Compare shell to motorcraft, mobil, fram, castrol
how about a SHELL t4 5w30 t5 5w30 for us race car guys here..........
15-40...i have used it..like it, but looking for a thinner one......with alllll the goodness...
Why not the SAE30?
T4 is a great m/c oil for the $.
I;m just wondering what kind of degree this guy has. Is he at least a tribologist. I don't know much about this guy I just came across this as I was scolling other diesel additives. Hopefully he is at least a tribologist.
Can I use t5 in a gas engine 94 Corolla?
Which will be best on a motorcycle?
Castrol or Valvoline 10-40 with 20% Lucas Stabilizer in it !
@@waylonmccrae3546 That lucas is nothing, use a heavier weight oil, otherwise you're diluting your additive pack
T6 5w40
If the MC has a wet clutch then no not use additives. Never!
Would like to see T6 against a "premier" oil