No idea why TH-cam decided to recommend this video to everyone (its not that great), a sub would appreciated so I can work towards monitization. Thanks!
I jump my slash a lot too like he said around 10+ feet and have even crashed a few times and mine are perfectly fine but makes sense if some do I guess
You forgot what’s a big one in my opinion. Captured hinge pins, I like the ones from STRC. They’re stronger and move smoother than stock plus they won’t back out like stock. The shock caps, LCG chassis, rpm rear bearing carries and the captured hinge pins should be day one imo.
I love the 2wd slash, I've had 2 xmaxx, 2 maxx both v1, losi DBXL-E, losi tenacity, etc etc and nothing can take a beating like a 2wd slash and its hands down the cheapest to fix. I've never had an issue with stock axles in the back, as long as you know how to drive not land a jump on throttle and be static with it you'll be fine if your snappy with the throttle you'll break them yeah but I've owned my slash for 4 years never an issue with the axles besides the holes for the little u joints oval out and the axles have slop/play back and forth but that's after like months of use. Other than that good video I subbed.
on my traxxas slash 2wd i am using the drive shafts from the 4wd car and i have not broken them and i have a brushless. also i have a LSG frame and it SO GOOD i have never flipped with it on.
I’m needing bumpers for it and I was at my local race track and ramped it pretty hard and somehow landed on the rear and ripped out my pins on a new body and then when I ramped it again and broke a driveshaft, I just botched it together
I have a castle sidewinder 3 motor and esc, shocks, a arms, lcg chassis, 3 venom lipos, proline tires, what’s the next upgrade? I got my truck yesterday
Where can I find a high profile wheelie bar? I didn't know they existed for the slash rpm bumpers. My damn mud flaps are getting torn up bc the low profile ones are too high on the bumper to stop them from hitting the ground.
Only part ive broken so far is the input shafts shear gear pin it pisses me off cuz i can't find a part code and hobby shops can't even fins the part code been jumping mine hard botttoming out chassis to the ground and no issues at all except stupid shear pin has been disabling it bad
@@maverick_578 Cool, I was planning on switching to lipo eventually, I just wasn't sure if it would be worth it with the brushed motor. I'll probably get a brushless motor in the long run.
I hate the RPM shocks towers, It just make tuning so much more inconsistent, bashing is fine, but it can cause shock shafts to bend with how much it can flex, at last the RPM rears flex more than the stock. RPM front Flexs but isn't anywhere near the same flex as the stock front tower.
The suspension caps I have (stock so there plastic) haven’t broken off yet and I’ve jumped it off a jump that’s 18 feet high and going full speed with a brushless motor so I wouldn’t buy it unless the break
I raced my truck every weekend 4 races of 20 laps each for a year or so as well as yard bashing. Never blew a stock shock cap. I did have to rebuild my rear shocks from the spring and the shock shaft getting worn out and bent. This truck has fell at least 10 feet at times.
@@myyotube8497 depends on the location. Whenever that happend to me is when I bought a high frame Chassis then converted to low Frame, I had some leftover screws in a slightly larger diameter. Use hand tools only and work the new one in. It'll be a tight fit at first but the plastic will stretch to the new size. Never use power tools on these. I'd recommend an rc screwz kit as well.
@@myyotube8497 if I had to list out the needed parts that break often. (from a high speed brushless racers perspective) What you actually need is... 1. Metal hex drives, 2 a good set of wheel nuts. Mine wore out from swapping burnt tires often. (not an issue unless you race, stock tires are hard to wear out but have no traction) 3. Rpm knuckles (front and rear) . They break before the swing arms (never broke a swing arm despite hitting stuff hard enough to rip the gears out of a servo through the servo saver) 4. A good servo. Stock ones plastic gears are a little iffy, I'm on my second and many of the other racers broke them. (I bought a used stock one off a buddy after my first one broke on race day. Had to get it together for the next race) 5. The pivots on the A arms. Can't remember the name but there is a company that makes hardened ones with bolts instead of c clips. (the stock ones bend before you break an A arm.) 6. Rear shocks. They wear out after a while. Never had major issues just wear and tear. The shaft will bend after a while. 7. Keep a set of bearings on hand for when one gets stiff. 8. Grease and check out bearings in the rear diff often. 9. A spare set of ball joints like the ends of the shocks have is useful. The ones on the bottom rear shock will get smashed after a while if you drive offroad. 10. If you run in gravel keep a spare rear axle. A rock once lodged in my A arm and cut my axle until it snapped.
while you're at it go ahead and upgrade to new esc and motor, 1 week in and 3 runs at the track and ive already smoked the velineon motor. im running the 2s battery from traxxas so its not like i put crazy power into it. the track i ran it on is dirt. pretty sad
I have had my traxxas slash for about 8 years now and I am about To upgrade the hell out of it. Mine is already moderately upgraded. I race as well. What is the price of all those upgrades together. In Australian. Great vid
Thanks I am going to put about $450 bucks into upgrades for my slash for racing and durability. I am going to use most of the recommendations as well as I will upload a video of my setup after it is upgraded. 👍
You do know there's a spray that you can put on the plastic make you stronger my Traxxas he's stock upgrade with a brushless motor had no problems with it I don't know what people talk about
Axles are not a mandatory upgrade! I run stock axles on 4s all day! U need to upgrade your trigger finger it’s called thottle control. U recommend a over priced un needed upgrade come on man. How long have u been in this hobby?
![แฉ [2/4] 12 ก.ค. 67 เจ้าของไวรัลดังในโซเชียล 'ลิลลี่ เหงียน' ฝันอยากเข้าวงการ โดนหลอกสารพัด | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7zntQK2U8-8/mqdefault.jpg)
No idea why TH-cam decided to recommend this video to everyone (its not that great), a sub would appreciated so I can work towards monitization. Thanks!
Ok thancks.
My plastic shock caps haven't blown off and I've jumped them over 10 feet lol.
I have the first production when it came out I want to dust off. I've had that thing over my moms nissan and hadn't busted anything.
Its honestly luck of the draw. My other slash hasnt had a problem with it. 75% of slashes seem to have the shock caps blow off tho.
I jump my slash a lot too like he said around 10+ feet and have even crashed a few times and mine are perfectly fine but makes sense if some do I guess
Maverick Torchia just putting aluminum caps on is a bandage might as well get aluminum shocks
@@maverick_578 mine did a couple days ago lol
The shock caps don’t NEED to be replaced lol I’ve been running mine for almost half a year
Nice video, good info on upgrades for a very popular RC car! 👍
Thank you!
I'm like your video I'm new to the Traxxas RC cars but very good information 👍😎
Thank you!
Great info!👍
Thanks man!
Ive got shock caps, linkage all aluminum. proline body. happy with my choices so far. running stock electrics. the hcg works well for how i run mine
You forgot what’s a big one in my opinion. Captured hinge pins, I like the ones from STRC. They’re stronger and move smoother than stock plus they won’t back out like stock. The shock caps, LCG chassis, rpm rear bearing carries and the captured hinge pins should be day one imo.
Thanks!!!
I love the 2wd slash, I've had 2 xmaxx, 2 maxx both v1, losi DBXL-E, losi tenacity, etc etc and nothing can take a beating like a 2wd slash and its hands down the cheapest to fix. I've never had an issue with stock axles in the back, as long as you know how to drive not land a jump on throttle and be static with it you'll be fine if your snappy with the throttle you'll break them yeah but I've owned my slash for 4 years never an issue with the axles besides the holes for the little u joints oval out and the axles have slop/play back and forth but that's after like months of use. Other than that good video I subbed.
First upgrade should be the metal servo gears IMO
I’ve also been running aluminum shock towers
on my traxxas slash 2wd i am using the drive shafts from the 4wd car and i have not broken them and i have a brushless.
also i have a LSG frame and it SO GOOD i have never flipped with it on.
I’m about to get me one of thes and upgrade it to the max to see. What it’s got.
What is the bellcrank/servo saver from it looks like tmaxx does it work good
Noiceee
If you go aluminum axles I would suggest going with an aluminum gear because you’ll just shread the gear if the axles aren’t aluminum as well
I made a frankentruck, it’s a Bigfoot/slash, cut it in have and extended chassis and I’m just playing around with it
I wish I could show you some pics, got an insta?
I’m needing bumpers for it and I was at my local race track and ramped it pretty hard and somehow landed on the rear and ripped out my pins on a new body and then when I ramped it again and broke a driveshaft, I just botched it together
I have a castle sidewinder 3 motor and esc, shocks, a arms, lcg chassis, 3 venom lipos, proline tires, what’s the next upgrade? I got my truck yesterday
I would personally go with rpm shock towers next.
Where can I find a high profile wheelie bar? I didn't know they existed for the slash rpm bumpers. My damn mud flaps are getting torn up bc the low profile ones are too high on the bumper to stop them from hitting the ground.
The traxxas wheelie bar should work with the rpm rear bumper. But hot racing also makes one, and so does rpm. Check amainhobbies.
@@maverick_578 oops I meant to put that here
Is it important to use Loctite on any screw in the assembly?
If it is screwing into metal yes. If it is into plastic no.
Pinion thats about it
Should I upgrade the a arms to metal or no
Nope, the problem with metal arms is you will break bulkheads, due to lack of flex. Go rpm
what bellcrank is that?
I have done 30 foot high jumps with standard stock caps
I've done 50 feet on standard shock caps and been fine, and I've done 5 foot jumps and have them blow off. Its a worth while upgrade for cheap imo.
@@maverick_578
30 and 50 foot jumps? What the fuck?! Lol You're talkin height, not distance.
Sounds like you guys have some good fishing stories too.
also, get JATO gears for the motor gearing, they will hold more power, and not get jammed as easy
I’ve been beating the shit out of my slash 2wd for a year now and somehow I’m still running on stock parts.
Do you know how much speed does this SW4 and castle motor gives on 2S LIPO ?
Depends on your gearing. Generally with the stock gearing you’re gonna achieve around 50-60mph.
@@maverick_578 You mean with 23/86 it will give 50mph ?
Only part ive broken so far is the input shafts shear gear pin it pisses me off cuz i can't find a part code and hobby shops can't even fins the part code been jumping mine hard botttoming out chassis to the ground and no issues at all except stupid shear pin has been disabling it bad
I know I am late but I just learned on this video that there were 2 diff chassis.
Glad to teach you something!
My Slash is the one with the Raptor body, can I still get the LCG chassis and use it with the Raptor body or will I need a normal Slash body?
You can use the raptor body with the lcg chassis, it will work fine.
@@maverick_578 Thanks for the reply. Also do you know if lipos are worth having with the brushed motor?
@@BlueOvals24 they definitely are, I'd go with a 2s LiPo for a stock brushed slash.
@@maverick_578 Cool, I was planning on switching to lipo eventually, I just wasn't sure if it would be worth it with the brushed motor. I'll probably get a brushless motor in the long run.
My caps have not yet either lol
I hate the RPM shocks towers, It just make tuning so much more inconsistent, bashing is fine, but it can cause shock shafts to bend with how much it can flex, at last the RPM rears flex more than the stock. RPM front Flexs but isn't anywhere near the same flex as the stock front tower.
The suspension caps I have (stock so there plastic) haven’t broken off yet and I’ve jumped it off a jump that’s 18 feet high and going full speed with a brushless motor so I wouldn’t buy it unless the break
I raced my truck every weekend 4 races of 20 laps each for a year or so as well as yard bashing. Never blew a stock shock cap. I did have to rebuild my rear shocks from the spring and the shock shaft getting worn out and bent. This truck has fell at least 10 feet at times.
What do you do, if you strip a thread in the plastic? Its really hard for me not to overtighten the screws.
@@myyotube8497 depends on the location. Whenever that happend to me is when I bought a high frame Chassis then converted to low Frame, I had some leftover screws in a slightly larger diameter. Use hand tools only and work the new one in. It'll be a tight fit at first but the plastic will stretch to the new size. Never use power tools on these. I'd recommend an rc screwz kit as well.
@@skulldriver1019 Thank you, that is very helpful.
@@myyotube8497 if I had to list out the needed parts that break often. (from a high speed brushless racers perspective) What you actually need is...
1. Metal hex drives,
2 a good set of wheel nuts. Mine wore out from swapping burnt tires often. (not an issue unless you race, stock tires are hard to wear out but have no traction)
3. Rpm knuckles (front and rear) . They break before the swing arms (never broke a swing arm despite hitting stuff hard enough to rip the gears out of a servo through the servo saver)
4. A good servo. Stock ones plastic gears are a little iffy, I'm on my second and many of the other racers broke them. (I bought a used stock one off a buddy after my first one broke on race day. Had to get it together for the next race)
5. The pivots on the A arms. Can't remember the name but there is a company that makes hardened ones with bolts instead of c clips. (the stock ones bend before you break an A arm.)
6. Rear shocks. They wear out after a while. Never had major issues just wear and tear. The shaft will bend after a while.
7. Keep a set of bearings on hand for when one gets stiff.
8. Grease and check out bearings in the rear diff often.
9. A spare set of ball joints like the ends of the shocks have is useful. The ones on the bottom rear shock will get smashed after a while if you drive offroad.
10. If you run in gravel keep a spare rear axle. A rock once lodged in my A arm and cut my axle until it snapped.
Skulldriver101 I just printed your list. You seem to know all about it. Thanks again.
while you're at it go ahead and upgrade to new esc and motor, 1 week in and 3 runs at the track and ive already smoked the velineon motor. im running the 2s battery from traxxas so its not like i put crazy power into it. the track i ran it on is dirt. pretty sad
Velineons are pretty hit or miss in my opinion. Ive had them last 2 years, or 2 days.
Go castle sidewinder 3 or 4. I have had them for 3 years and no problems
i ran into a metal water spiket and it broke the water spiket nothing went wrong with the car lol
I have had my traxxas slash for about 8 years now and I am about To upgrade the hell out of it. Mine is already moderately upgraded. I race as well. What is the price of all those upgrades together. In Australian. Great vid
Around 250 Australian dollars 👍
Thanks I am going to put about $450 bucks into upgrades for my slash for racing and durability. I am going to use most of the recommendations as well as I will upload a video of my setup after it is upgraded. 👍
@@jamesk4455 should be an awesome set up 👍
Thank you very intuitive but you skipped the 8th one.
And I am looking a buying a used traxxas slash 2wd with a brushless motor (not sure of details yet but he wants 25 bucks? Is that a good price?
Oh jeez whoops! And that is a very good price.
Shock caps will still blow out now it's metal n plastic if you do shocks go full metal or bigger but I've sent it off roofs n never blew a shock cap
You do know there's a spray that you can put on the plastic make you stronger my Traxxas he's stock upgrade with a brushless motor had no problems with it I don't know what people talk about
You mean.... Wd40? Sure, that makes them more flexible, but doesn't change the strength of a plastic.
The heck happened to your reciever box??
Where’s ya motor
So just redo the whole slash
Kinda, to be honest
Ate you looking at a list, LMAO
Nope, no list no script
Axles are not a mandatory upgrade! I run stock axles on 4s all day! U need to upgrade your trigger finger it’s called thottle control. U recommend a over priced un needed upgrade come on man. How long have u been in this hobby?
I've been in the hobby 7 years, owned over 20 traxxas 2wd cars, and have snapped driveshafts on all of them.
So replace the whole car lol
Totally what I feel like I did now lol. Would be bummed about that but it makes you learn alot
Janky ass car 😂