By not further adding extra wiring insulation ( like wrapping the speaker wire in electrical tape etc.) on the aftermarket speaker wire, you're asking for a short-circuit which will kill the speaker. There's a reason why you see all the stock wiring all armored up with insulation from factory!
I think you should have partnered with a local professional shop to show the different options of how the customer can REALLY get better sound. What you showed is a back yard installation that cuts lots of corners and is not going to yield the same dynamic output the consumer is looking for. For example, you took out (4) full range woofers and installed full range mid/tweet combo's. Unless this vehicle has a factory or aftermarket sub you are basically listening to the best rock band ever just without the bass drum and half of the bass guitar.
These are Kicker coaxials, just like the factory base units. You only get component units with the Shaker audio. Kicker makes great speakers had em in my Jeep. No issues, awesome sound.
Just curious why you would install coaxials, when the stock door speakers are component separates (midwoofer in door, tweeter in A-pillar)? They probably use crossovers as well, meaning only bass and mids will go to the door speakers, regardless. That big useless tweeter in the center will actually be obstructing sound compared to a dedicated midwoofer.
@@H3NDO20 Wasn't trying to crap all over this guy if that's what you thought. He did all this when these cars were still new, and no one had figured out that there were other/better options. I give him credit for being one of the Innovators. That said, In 2023, this seems a downgrade to me. Granted the stock door speakers in the base system were paper cone, foam surround. Coaxials bring the soundstage down to your feet. Unless you have a head unit with something like Stage EQ (Kenwood) which will (artificially) bring it back up. FWIW, I installed a set of sound ordnance (crutchfield) P67CB components. They sound excellent and the tweeters are great, but I'll get into a drawback of the a-pillar design later. I ran speaker wire from the connector outside the door (using Metra speaker wire adapters), through the door grommet (cut a small slit) and to the woofers. I installed a scosche dash kit, and upgraded the stock 4" display to a Kenwood DDX396 double-din. The scosche kit installs a new module (deletes the factory sync module). I adapted the wiring from this to go into the Sound Ordnance Crossovers, ran the head unit speaker wires into the crossover, out under the dash to each A-Pillar and to the new tweeters, woofer out from crossovers back to the factory woofer connections (scosche kit). These cars use a molex connector plug inside a rubber boot from the fender into the doors. It's nearly impossible to run new speaker wire through the door without risk of damaging something. Keeping the factory wires is the best option. The tweeters were a pain, though. The A-Pillars use a special mount, and the stock tweeters "click" into place. I had to use butyl rubber ribbon sealer to hold the new tweeter frame into the A-Pillars from the rear. This sets the tweeters further back than stock and sort of horn-loads them. This makes them harsh above a certain volume. Below that point, that they sound phenomenal. Very crisp, clear, natural treble with shimmer and sparkle. Fast forward to today. I bought a JBL DSP4086 AMP, an Infinity 800W 8" subwoofer, GP Audio TruSpec (sonicelectronix) ported box, and Skar RP800.1D amp. I'm going to be installing all that, so that I can eliminate the crossovers up front, use active crossovers via the dsp, and tune the system based on sound measurements. I will also be dremeling out the tweeter opening larger so that I can use the flush mount adapters that came with the components. I hope this better explains things for you. If I knew the scope of work involved, I probably wouldn't do it again, but it was worth it so far.
Why not cut the speakers out of the front rings and install the same as the rear? Also you could have jumped the wires to the plug-n-play portion of the OEM ring. 🤷🏻♂️
The door speakers are subs. How can you run a coaxial there? Pretty poor "kit" if harness and hole adapters are not included! This is more like a "butcher" job than a quality kit. Not sure what you are promoting here but it's not anything that makes sense!!
Hi Stage 3 Motosports, I would be really happy if you could do some sound video playing some metal, rock and electro songs (like tiesto)....that would be really awesome. I know that the sound is not that good when recorded but still I get an impression. THX a lot, Chris
Trying to capture the sound on video, then playing it back on a computer would not do the sound system justice... Ive turned the sound up pretty much all the way and the sound is crystal clear when turned to the max. Kicker makes a great product!
For 1 the door speakers are not subs they are called mid woofers not sub woofer big difference also you can mount a coaxial in the doors you can actually get more sound out of it along with the factory tweeters the thing they don't tell you is what's positive and what's negative on the factory wiring. Here's a clue for those who need to know cut the wire leaving plenty of wire to the factory speakers and use a drill battery that shows + and - and if you don't have a drill battery use a 9 volt strip the wires then put them on the battery when the speaker pushes out the wire that is on the + side is the positive for your speaker do every one like this and your system will sound great in stead of out of phase you all are welcome I just like to help out
As far as best all around sound quality, which car speakers are the best, kicker, Bose, or pioneer for a 2015 mustang? My stock speakers blew up and I need a replacement.
Unfortunately, you overlooked the most important limitation of the stock system. And it’s not the speakers (although those are junk). The major issue with these Shaker systems is in the amplifier itself. The only way to truly get premium sound (if keeping the stock amp), is to use the ForScan tool to unlock the frequencies output. You see, Ford limited the freq to the speakers. That’s why it sounds decent but, not great. So, if anyone is wanting better sound, sure, replace the speakers (I’d suggest Rockford Fosgate or equivalent) and the amp and sub.
The rear deck looks like it may could house 8" speakers. Does anyone know if that's possible? I think the cutout on 8" speakers is around 7.25" it looks like the aftermarket 6.5" with housing would nearly fall through the deck.
Can't believe how many people need their hands held for a speaker install.Also who cares if if you cut the factory speaker and use the adapter ring , it's not likely anyone will want to save that factory garbage speaker to install elsewhere.This upgrade makes a huge difference over the stock speakers without spending a whole lot.
Any type of up grade is better than factory so if most of you who never did car audio wouldn't know this so you can replace the factory mid with a coaxial actually you would get alot more sound like that unless you know what you doing get a separate woofer Tweeter set so the way they show you is ok unless you want to add a amp to it if not coax it is but the thing I didn't like was that they just cut the wires and hooked them up it can really sound like crap if you don't have the positive and negative correct now there playing out of phase. So if you want to figure that out cut the plug long enough to strip and use a battery and pop test it just put one wire on + the other on - if it pushes out then the wire on + is positive and the other is negative so wire the new wires accordingly +to+ -to - and do them all like that and your golden enjoy your new speakers thell sound good if you really want some sound add a amp.
Dude why didnt you guys go into the importantce of stopping acoustic coupling of metals tabs pins etc and solving that problem? also those hole in the door with the vapour shield need to be addressed. i know your doing much better than stock but it could be so much more better-er than this (Aussie Slang) sorry i dont want to come of critical. but i just think people should know about these extras
+YungJayunoI know it's probably to late now ..but.. I just hooked these up today in the doors of my base GT. I had to use a digital voltameter to see which one was the pos with the radio on.
A good place to check would be crutchfield.comThey sell or usually give free a female to the pre existing male harness connector so no splicing is required. Hit them up
What a horrible install Please don't do this. Use a proper adapter plate with foam, fast rings and sound deadening Proper installation will make or break any speaker
Using a gasket or sealer on the front speakers would be advised if the Kicker does not have a built in one. People still use butt connectors on speaker wires? Using that in a door cavity is a terrible practice - it will be subjected to water intrusion and will corrode. At least wrap it with heat shrink tubing to seal the connection.
+Dan Ho Not to mention the fact that they used replacement coaxials where there should be component woofers. Definitely not the most practical install.
If you used the rear speaker rings, why didn't you use the door speaker rings as well? Especially since most aftermarket speakers need to be mounted away from the door, to prevent the window from impacting the speaker magnet.
Are you referring to the plastic plate behind the door latch mechanism? If so, look for a small aperture at the top of the plate. It's about 1/8" in diameter or so. Through here slip a thin bladed (but strong) screwdriver and carefully and slowly apply leverage. You'll need to repeat this many times but eventually you will hear one of the clips pop and it will come nearly free and then you can pop it right off.
Those don't exist. YOu can order 6.5" Goldwoods off Amazon, they are amazing, you'll have to make a gasket out of MDF to mount it to, you want to seal up any air gaps, and keep the speaker from hitting the window mechanism, and eliminate vibration, I also use some silicon caulk between the MDF and the metal on the door.
This is quite literally the worst installing I've seen "professionally" done. None of the gear is properly integrated and cutting up a factory speaker to mount a new one? That's some back yard shade tree right there. I would be embarrassed to show this work publicly.
I got the factory bose system from the factory but it doesn't get loud enough or as good as the aftermaket system I installed into my BMW. In this situation would a midwoofer make more sense than installing a speaker with a tweeter in the center? I just don't think that speaker makes much sense if you have the factory bose system.
I just want to replace the rear deck speakers on my 15 Mustang. Your video goes too fast and it's darker when you are removing both rear panels. Would you be able to make a new video on just doing the rear speakers. I pried the first tab, but I quit because I'm afraid of damaging the side panels when removing them.
A gm if I remember correctly the side panels are removed by pulling towards the front of the car and then out towards the center or the other way around. Had to remove them on my buddies mustang when we installed his airbags
By not further adding extra wiring insulation ( like wrapping the speaker wire in electrical tape etc.) on the aftermarket speaker wire, you're asking for a short-circuit which will kill the speaker. There's a reason why you see all the stock wiring all armored up with insulation from factory!
I think you should have partnered with a local professional shop to show the different options of how the customer can REALLY get better sound. What you showed is a back yard installation that cuts lots of corners and is not going to yield the same dynamic output the consumer is looking for. For example, you took out (4) full range woofers and installed full range mid/tweet combo's. Unless this vehicle has a factory or aftermarket sub you are basically listening to the best rock band ever just without the bass drum and half of the bass guitar.
Thank you for the video! Helped me a lot especially with the rear quarter panel removal.
These are Kicker coaxials, just like the factory base units. You only get component units with the Shaker audio.
Kicker makes great speakers had em in my Jeep. No issues, awesome sound.
Thanks for taking the time to make a video. Regardless of opinions, don't let it bother ya. They have nothing better to do than troll the net
Just curious why you would install coaxials, when the stock door speakers are component separates (midwoofer in door, tweeter in A-pillar)? They probably use crossovers as well, meaning only bass and mids will go to the door speakers, regardless. That big useless tweeter in the center will actually be obstructing sound compared to a dedicated midwoofer.
Sum Dood what kind of speaker set up would you recommend? I want to upgrade my base model sound system
Recommendations? Since you picked this guys apart or are we just going with the posted video?
@@H3NDO20 Wasn't trying to crap all over this guy if that's what you thought. He did all this when these cars were still new, and no one had figured out that there were other/better options. I give him credit for being one of the Innovators.
That said, In 2023, this seems a downgrade to me. Granted the stock door speakers in the base system were paper cone, foam surround. Coaxials bring the soundstage down to your feet. Unless you have a head unit with something like Stage EQ (Kenwood) which will (artificially) bring it back up.
FWIW, I installed a set of sound ordnance (crutchfield) P67CB components. They sound excellent and the tweeters are great, but I'll get into a drawback of the a-pillar design later.
I ran speaker wire from the connector outside the door (using Metra speaker wire adapters), through the door grommet (cut a small slit) and to the woofers. I installed a scosche dash kit, and upgraded the stock 4" display to a Kenwood DDX396 double-din. The scosche kit installs a new module (deletes the factory sync module). I adapted the wiring from this to go into the Sound Ordnance Crossovers, ran the head unit speaker wires into the crossover, out under the dash to each A-Pillar and to the new tweeters, woofer out from crossovers back to the factory woofer connections (scosche kit). These cars use a molex connector plug inside a rubber boot from the fender into the doors. It's nearly impossible to run new speaker wire through the door without risk of damaging something. Keeping the factory wires is the best option.
The tweeters were a pain, though. The A-Pillars use a special mount, and the stock tweeters "click" into place. I had to use butyl rubber ribbon sealer to hold the new tweeter frame into the A-Pillars from the rear. This sets the tweeters further back than stock and sort of horn-loads them. This makes them harsh above a certain volume. Below that point, that they sound phenomenal. Very crisp, clear, natural treble with shimmer and sparkle.
Fast forward to today. I bought a JBL DSP4086 AMP, an Infinity 800W 8" subwoofer, GP Audio TruSpec (sonicelectronix) ported box, and Skar RP800.1D amp. I'm going to be installing all that, so that I can eliminate the crossovers up front, use active crossovers via the dsp, and tune the system based on sound measurements. I will also be dremeling out the tweeter opening larger so that I can use the flush mount adapters that came with the components.
I hope this better explains things for you. If I knew the scope of work involved, I probably wouldn't do it again, but it was worth it so far.
Why not cut the speakers out of the front rings and install the same as the rear? Also you could have jumped the wires to the plug-n-play portion of the OEM ring. 🤷🏻♂️
The door speakers are subs. How can you run a coaxial there? Pretty poor "kit" if harness and hole adapters are not included! This is more like a "butcher" job than a quality kit. Not sure what you are promoting here but it's not anything that makes sense!!
+Mesiguri Productions 😮😩😦😢
Is this an upgrade over the Shaker system as well? I love my GT Premium but the sound system is as little muddy for my taste.
good video but my ocd will only let me solder and shrinkwrap wire connections. i like everything to be as close to factory as can be.
You should have ordered the wiring harnesses adapter
Did u add an amp. If so how did u did the connection for the original amp by the gas and break pedal
Why didn't you do the fronts like the rears useing stock ring to push them out to tye door panel? Seems like u lose lil sound?
Hi Stage 3 Motosports, I would be really happy if you could do some sound video playing some metal, rock and electro songs (like tiesto)....that would be really awesome. I know that the sound is not that good when recorded but still I get an impression. THX a lot, Chris
Trying to capture the sound on video, then playing it back on a computer would not do the sound system justice... Ive turned the sound up pretty much all the way and the sound is crystal clear when turned to the max. Kicker makes a great product!
For 1 the door speakers are not subs they are called mid woofers not sub woofer big difference also you can mount a coaxial in the doors you can actually get more sound out of it along with the factory tweeters the thing they don't tell you is what's positive and what's negative on the factory wiring. Here's a clue for those who need to know cut the wire leaving plenty of wire to the factory speakers and use a drill battery that shows + and - and if you don't have a drill battery use a 9 volt strip the wires then put them on the battery when the speaker pushes out the wire that is on the + side is the positive for your speaker do every one like this and your system will sound great in stead of out of phase you all are welcome I just like to help out
As far as best all around sound quality, which car speakers are the best, kicker, Bose, or pioneer for a 2015 mustang? My stock speakers blew up and I need a replacement.
Unfortunately, you overlooked the most important limitation of the stock system. And it’s not the speakers (although those are junk). The major issue with these Shaker systems is in the amplifier itself. The only way to truly get premium sound (if keeping the stock amp), is to use the ForScan tool to unlock the frequencies output. You see, Ford limited the freq to the speakers. That’s why it sounds decent but, not great. So, if anyone is wanting better sound, sure, replace the speakers (I’d suggest Rockford Fosgate or equivalent) and the amp and sub.
Great video, just what I was looking for. Does the premium package on the Mustang have better speakers than the base model?
yes.........and if you want the "top" system, it's the "401A equipment package".
all this cutting do they make any spacers for this car and stock plug to speaker wire to just have a plug and play?
yep, look on crutchfield's site
so these speakers wont be starved of power when installed to a factory harness?
nice and all but my convertible doesnt have those rear speakers
Are these speakers better than the ones in the premium stereo? I have the 9 speaker system.
What are the sizes of the screws and what tools are you using. the bottom 2 screws are at a rally bad angle and cannot see how to take them out.
Joe Diaz found any info? On what size screws?? And tools needed?
Jadrien Amorin I did you need 7mm socket with 1/4 drive for it to work the screws are at an angle so anything bigger will not work
Joe Diaz all of them are 7? Short. or long 7? Also is it hard to remove and put back the wire to open the door
Jadrien Amorin the screws are all about the same size but I didn't remove the wires from the door just moved the panel over
Jadrien Amorin the screws are all about the same size but I didn't remove the wires from the door just moved the panel over
The rear deck looks like it may could house 8" speakers. Does anyone know if that's possible? I think the cutout on 8" speakers is around 7.25" it looks like the aftermarket 6.5" with housing would nearly fall through the deck.
Can't believe how many people need their hands held for a speaker install.Also who cares if if you cut the factory speaker and use the adapter ring , it's not likely anyone will want to save that factory garbage speaker to install elsewhere.This upgrade makes a huge difference over the stock speakers without spending a whole lot.
do you guys still have the Mustang speakers
You wouldn't happen to know the db sensitivity of those stock 6.5" door speakers, compared to the kicker upgrades?
Did you leave the tweeters un-passed given the car has factory tweeters? (At least in the front)
Any type of up grade is better than factory so if most of you who never did car audio wouldn't know this so you can replace the factory mid with a coaxial actually you would get alot more sound like that unless you know what you doing get a separate woofer Tweeter set so the way they show you is ok unless you want to add a amp to it if not coax it is but the thing I didn't like was that they just cut the wires and hooked them up it can really sound like crap if you don't have the positive and negative correct now there playing out of phase. So if you want to figure that out cut the plug long enough to strip and use a battery and pop test it just put one wire on + the other on - if it pushes out then the wire on + is positive and the other is negative so wire the new wires accordingly +to+ -to - and do them all like that and your golden enjoy your new speakers thell sound good if you really want some sound add a amp.
so does that install on the front speakers mean that there are two tweeters. the speaker and factory?
Dude why didnt you guys go into the importantce of stopping acoustic coupling of metals tabs pins etc and solving that problem? also those hole in the door with the vapour shield need to be addressed. i know your doing much better than stock but it could be so much more better-er than this (Aussie Slang) sorry i dont want to come of critical. but i just think people should know about these extras
I have the base radio in my GT and I'm replacing all but the tweeter. What are the wire color codes
As in which one is pos/ neg
+YungJayunoI know it's probably to late now ..but.. I just hooked these up today in the doors of my base GT. I had to use a digital voltameter to see which one was the pos with the radio on.
+YungJayuno Would like to know this as well
Trying to find a good place to run my amp wire through my firewall on my 2015 mustang any suggestions?
im in the same boat as you. did you figure it out?
I used the air intake resonator hole with the stock grommet to feed my wire
+FerreyraTV is it easy to get to and would I be able to do it myself
any good speakers that will be plug and play? dont wanan go through the splicing....
A good place to check would be crutchfield.comThey sell or usually give free a female to the pre existing male harness connector so no splicing is required. Hit them up
Negative and positive do NOT matter or do they?
Do I have to disconnect my battery?
What a horrible install
Please don't do this. Use a proper adapter plate with foam, fast rings and sound deadening
Proper installation will make or break any speaker
Using a gasket or sealer on the front speakers would be advised if the Kicker does not have a built in one.
People still use butt connectors on speaker wires? Using that in a door cavity is a terrible practice - it will be subjected to water intrusion and will corrode. At least wrap it with heat shrink tubing to seal the connection.
+Dan Ho Not to mention the fact that they used replacement coaxials where there should be component woofers. Definitely not the most practical install.
If you used the rear speaker rings, why didn't you use the door speaker rings as well?
Especially since most aftermarket speakers need to be mounted away from the door, to prevent the window from impacting the speaker magnet.
How to remove the plate behind the door panel?
Are you referring to the plastic plate behind the door latch mechanism? If so, look for a small aperture at the top of the plate. It's about 1/8" in diameter or so. Through here slip a thin bladed (but strong) screwdriver and carefully and slowly apply leverage. You'll need to repeat this many times but eventually you will hear one of the clips pop and it will come nearly free and then you can pop it right off.
could 6.75" speakers fit in the door?
Those don't exist. YOu can order 6.5" Goldwoods off Amazon, they are amazing, you'll have to make a gasket out of MDF to mount it to, you want to seal up any air gaps, and keep the speaker from hitting the window mechanism, and eliminate vibration, I also use some silicon caulk between the MDF and the metal on the door.
When my Friend says: I know someone who can do it cheaper.
Honestly dude: Wtf is this crap install? very bad job!
I am assuming this will work for the GT as well?
Yes that is correct
can a 6x9 fit it the back
This is quite literally the worst installing I've seen "professionally" done. None of the gear is properly integrated and cutting up a factory speaker to mount a new one? That's some back yard shade tree right there. I would be embarrassed to show this work publicly.
so sick 💀💀
I got the factory bose system from the factory but it doesn't get loud enough or as good as the aftermaket system I installed into my BMW. In this situation would a midwoofer make more sense than installing a speaker with a tweeter in the center? I just don't think that speaker makes much sense if you have the factory bose system.
There is no factory Bose system in the 2015 and later Mustangs. Do you mean the Shaker system?
I just want to replace the rear deck speakers on my 15 Mustang. Your video goes too fast and it's darker when you are removing both rear panels. Would you be able to make a new video on just doing the rear speakers. I pried the first tab, but I quit because I'm afraid of damaging the side panels when removing them.
A gm if I remember correctly the side panels are removed by pulling towards the front of the car and then out towards the center or the other way around. Had to remove them on my buddies mustang when we installed his airbags
Thank you. We'll try to do it that way.
Video is horrible for a walkthrough tell people the sizes of the screws tools needed work arounds I'm doing this now and it's a bitch
the r😊
do you guys still have the Mustang speakers
do you guys still have the Mustang speakers