Here's two more helpful videos! 4 Reasons ONLY Upgrading Speakers might not sound good! - th-cam.com/video/lfgIU9JXSiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DRX_gzGocce3CJBn Installing speakers? These techniques make a BIG difference! - th-cam.com/video/jPNy_Adb2vU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xmj5U5ZhVsJEQNyL I forgot to mention in the video that we also did an RTA measurement of the OEM system alone prior to the speaker install. I'd like to get another measurement now with just the speakers installed and then one with the final system. Would you guys be interested in seeing those results? Thanks for watching! Don't forget you can save on your next car audio purchase with show sponsor Crutchfield here - www.crutchfield.com/I-rCAFcYTB/rf/ef28766d-4881-4df6-9f8b-287145ad3d36/
Yes to seeing the before and after data especially with no amp. Also interesting would be a before and after of the dampening materials and foam rings - but not changing any other variables so you get a true picture of their effect. And a summary of your experience with various manufacturers of sound deadeners, CLDs, etc.
To answer your question, that is definitely a video you should do. Everyone thinks upgrading speakers from OEM makes a difference, we sould love to see real world analysis especially without an amp. Thanks for all your great work!! You do a phenomenal job on your channel. Ive been a fan for some years now. Keep up the great work.
I’ve replaced mine and others OEM speakers a lot and you can tell a difference even without an amp. Where you notice the biggest difference is when you get rid of the entire factory system and run aftermarket head unit and amps. The sound quality of a good aftermarket system is so much better but it needs to be setup and tuned correctly.
But its really depends or the corrente speakers you have, you have cars with a lot good speakers like Bowers and wilkings, he can do a video but its relative, because depends on the speakers that you car have and what speakers you get, and off course the radio that you are using
@@ProGamerKF in every stock system that I’ve ripped out that claims to have a high end stereo system from a premium manufacturer it’s more about that manufacturer deciding speaker placement based on what the space the car manufacturers give them to use as well as the overall tuning. I’ve never seen a system that didn’t cut bass response or utilize low quality to mid range speakers. As I said I’ve never touched complete system rebuild that didn’t sound infinitely better than the factory system. Better head units, better crossovers, better amplification, better speakers, etc,etc…
@@P-J-W-777 you cant compare with amp, or other units, but you have premium Cars that have like 20 speakers on a car with amp. Maybe you just touched Peugeot and Renault sound system the high levels of volvos, Audi, and stuff like that they até awesome, and you had to spend more than 1.5k some Times to have similar sound. And they use special speakers with sizes that you normally dont have selling everywhere
@@ProGamerKF nope I’ve upgraded audio systems in various cars including Rolls Royce, Porsche and all the way down to fords. People kept claiming how good the Tesla audio systems were from factory yet so many people are upgrading them and noticing big differences.
A little known secret from before the days of dedicated subwoofers, is that when speakers face each other, for example, in the doors, you have a slight increase of bass response. I’ve known this since 1974. This makes it critical that you install them very solidly to the inner metal door skin if possible.
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +3
Having phase reverse on the sub control is a MUST, it makes all the difference.
I don't know what Delco was doing back in 1996 but the sound in the Chevrolet Lumina LS sedan was quite impressive. Bass Mekanik 5.0 sounded quite nice on the 6x9's.
I did the same in my 17 Corolla, front and rear speakers, Infinity Reference with sound deadening. What a difference!! Highly recommend doing speakers as the bare minimum in any vehicle.
Also, I did speakers OEM replacement on my corolla 17, however I added amp and I went through kenwood kac 1814 ehich was great and now landed with hertz hcp 4 which is really awesome. Speaker hertz dieci, but tweeters again, changed to cento huuuge difference.
sound deadening is the bare minimum, not the speakers. Installing aftermarket speakers might even have a negative impact on bass, while sound deadening will improve bass response even with stock speakers. I always recommend sound deadening as the first thing to do
I really like watching you talk to your installer Brian, who is new to this. It really adds a different element that the solo-high end videos you produce don’t have. The way you describe the process (probably subconscious) is really unique versus your traditional videos. I think you should do a playlist/low intensity series, with you training Brian. Walk us noobs through the process with Brian. I no doubt believe this would benefit the car audio community (at entry level). A different/welcomed twist.
I think Brian is the owner of the car. And in the original video he mentioned he's building the system for his brother in law (I think). So Brian is the brother in law.
I upgraded the factory speakers on my renault megane, the sound quality and volume was better since the aftermarket speakers had higher sensitivity, but they had some distortion from the twitters, which forced me to install an amplifier, now it sounds great
Doing exactly this in a 2022 NX Tucson mid spec with the base level stereo made a huuuuuge difference. I noticed the car had bare metal opposite the door woofer positions, so sound deadening alone no doubt helped tremendously. I used 93db sensitivity JBL SQ speakers, and the high sensitivity on factory head power is astonishingly better already. Super bright top end, and the mid bass is endlessly impressive. So good I've suggested on our local Hyundai group this is a highly recommended upgrade in itself. I'm going the whole hog with a sub and DSP and amps, but the speaker swap alone was a lot better than even I expected. The Hyundai speakers were as cheap as they come, so that's obviously a big factor.
I swapped the rear door speakers in my Explorer for a pair of Focal Flax 6.5 coaxial I had laying around. I also 3D printed my speaker adapters. No amp, base stereo, and they sound really good. They’ll sound even better when I eventually/finally drop the amps and dsp in.
Agree 100 % , Amps are to boost the volume and leave you deaf , in my Camry XLE I’m using the factory radio and “Kenwood” all the way around including sub amp and subwoofer, there are hundreds of brands and speakers better than “Kenwood” but those work perfectly with my radio without amp , just trying to make it simple and get a balance between audio quality , budged , time and work, however I spent time and money to improve vehicle acoustic characteristics adding some “ dynamat” and extra sound deadening materials 🤷♂️
I just swapped in Focal Flax 6.5 two-way separates @ front door/dash. Alpine 70W amp with built in DSP. 2024 Corolla Cross. Soundskin. The quality, detail in sound is there. You will be happy. There is plenty enough sound and punch for me. I had a 2022 CC with factory JBL, including amp and sub. I once had K2 Powers, so my ear is pretty fine tuned and discerning. I listen to hard rock, metal and prog/fusion. Good luck.
Every car I've ever owned my first upgrade has been upgrade oem speakers. It's a simple yet dramatic change. If you Do your research it's an easy install with the correct tools.
I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma with the base stereo system. I did a complete system swap and installed a new head unit, new speakers, self contained subwoofer behind the back seat and it sounded good. At the time, I left the factory tweeters in the front door in place. The system was still missing something. Kicker makes a tweeter for Subarus that fit the door but the wiring was a little different for my particular year. So, i adapted the factory harness to the new kicker tweeter and wow, that made a huge difference. I also did full sound treatment under the rear seat, back wall and inside the doors. My Tacoma's stereo system sounds amazing now.
With aftermarket speakers, I’ve noticed mids and highs are vastly improved but bass drops off. Adding even a small sub fixes all of that. I had JL Audio C5 components that I left in the car on trade in (couldn’t find the factory speakers I removed) and listened to it on the factory head unit. Amazing. Just not as loud as with an amp.
Yeah generally the speaker design makes the aftermarket speakers less efficient than factory (depends of course on model), so usually the "max volume" isn't perceived as being as loud. I discuss more here - th-cam.com/video/lfgIU9JXSiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ezCzrZa-24wCFwZY
U can get some aftermarkets that have a high impedence.. or are like 2-3 ohm with high impedence.. those are good dropin replacements.... but then when u want to amplify they might fall short a bit.. but u can get great sound from less watts..
I think the design approach is that they plan on the owner adding a subwoofer. So they design every component to be best at its effective frequency, instead of trying to good at everything and failing at that.
I bought a similar Hyundai Elantra last year, and would love to upgrade rhe stock sound system. Ive heard mixed reviews of whether upgrading soeakers only, would make a substantial difference. Different answers from different installers. Everyone recommends the JL 2 series, but ive gotten different answers on whether just using the stock head unit, without sn amplifier, will make a difference, because it wont be pushing out any more power. After seeing this video, I'd feel more comfortable making the smaller investment. Thank you for posting!
It depends on how new the car is. My 04 Corolla, new speakers, aftermarket head unit with built in cross over, 1x12" Alpine Type R on 250w Rockford Fosgate Monoblock. Ive gotten ALOT of comments on the clarity of sound. Not superloud, but still get that bass you like.
And for those coming in that are just planning on upgrading your speakers and not running an amp my biggest advice would be to shop for "weaker" speakers instead of big high end ones. Goal is to match the output of your radio since most aftermarket radios only put out like 15-20w rms each channel which is some cases is even less than stock audio systems. The lower wattage rating the speaker is the easier it physically is to run whereas those premium high power speakers require a lot more physical power to run the coils (ie a 20w speaker is far louder at 20w than a 50-100w at 20w) You'd end up with less bass and volume with a "nicer" 100w Alpine speaker than if you just got that 20w Kicker you thought wouldn't get loud enough
The best thing when considering only updating the speakers, is its best to not buy super high end, high power door and rear speakers. Buy lower powered ones that will be driven better by a factory (or non) unit. I installed a recent JVC unit and some brand name, but lower power speakers in my car, and have a discerning ear. Those 30-75 watt handling speaker's are driven perfectly with the head unit. If i went with 100-150, higher end components, it would not have sounded very good.
This is what I was looking for! I remember years ago replacing factory speakers with upgraded only to find they weren’t as loud and didn’t sound better.
My wife needed new speakers in her car and after getting them replaced the mid bass made a big difference. However with the sound treatment I'm sure that made an even bigger impact. I would still add an amp because why not if you're already installing speakers. I can't wait to add new speakers in my car, so far I only have subwoofers and sound treatment and a kenwood excelon stereo.
With a little effort, I have often been able to repurpose the OEM speaker frame (after removing the old speaker cone and plastic frame) as an adapter for the aftermarket speaker.
It's a relative change that doesn't always cause any improvement at all. I have tested this before and it all depends on how good the speakers are relative to the head unit in the first place. If you have a decent source but rubbish speakers, yes it will make a big difference. If you have a decent source but your speakers are already decent, it will make no obvious difference, particularly at low volumes. Best way to get an idea is to research the power output of the source head unit and get one of the speakers out and see what it's rated at. If the radio outputs 30w but the speakers are only 5w, there is a good chance it will make a significant difference but if the radio only outputs 15w and the speakers are already 20w, the speakers wont make any difference because the head unit cant provide any more even if the speakers can handle more going to them.
We changed the speakers in my daughter’s Camry (non JBL) and added a JL amp and sub and the difference was amazing. I want to change the speakers only on my Lexus LC500 but am being told that the oem are 8ohms so I can’t without changing amp
cant u just run 4 ohm speakers (that are a bit better build/heavier) they would probably be fine.. would be worse if ur car had a 2 ohm system.. like these 8 ohm speakers are probably 10-20 watts.. if u get 100 watts rms 4 ohm speakers ur never going to blow those up.. and if u do its just the headunit..
If you have never used higher end, larger pro audio drivers, you should check them out. I know you are into more top shelf SQ gear, but I think you would be surprised the quality of the sound you can get from some of these larger drivers and horns when installed properly and given proper bandpass crossovers
Got some focal ICU 165s sitting in my closet been waiting to find a component set to go with it, also a 660.5 kicker sadly rated 65 watts and the ICUs are 70 . The component set up part of the video really helped thanks so much if anyone has recommendations to components I love to hear everyone’s ideas wish you all great health and wealth
Just upgradingvthe speakers in an E/F series BMW makes a great difference on the E63. The factory setup on them are slightly different in that only the underseats have amplification. The left the door and rear shelf speakers powered of the head unit. Next step is wire up the Rainbow Ipaul to the comps underseats. That should improve it some more.
Thanks for providing the name of the song. I checked it and it sounds awesome. Really good to test a sound system, Any other songs you would like to share? Perhaps would be a good idea to a next video?
Right now I have my Kenwood Excelon DMX706s powering my Morel Tempo Ultra Mark II 6.5 components and Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 6x9’s. They sound amazing. At first I had just the stock speakers being powered by the Kenwood. I have an JL Audio VX800/i8 and a JL Audio 12TW3v3-D-8for a subs I intend to bridge channels 7 and 8 to the sub.
I love your installation, but I'd love this even more if you used some royalty-free music (or did a less-than-30-second playback that is totally legal within copyright laws) of select tracks to show the difference in an article like this. You definitely show some great quality installation. I might do a follow-up article on what to look for in speakers if you're not ready to upgrade your amp yet (e.g., sensitivity, other qualities that can make upgraded speakers good without a replacement amp, or until such time as you can afford one).
You cannot hear the difference because you are listening to YOUR speakers that you are playing the video on. I've been down this road before. I'll evaluate a subwoofer, then play the sound on video and I'll have geniuses telling me "that sucks! There's no bass!" But it's because they are listening on their iPhone. Also, unless I clip the microphone to oblivion then the assumption is "it's not loud". Unfortunately we live in an age where everyone is a critic and no one can ever be positive about anything and I'm simply over being ragged on for sharing knowledge and enjoying a hobby. So I'll pass.
Quick question, which is material is best for speaker adapters, ABS plastic or wood, reason as to why I'm asking I've heard a few people talking trash about the plastic adapters over wood adapters. Keep up the great work and thanks for knowledge sharing
AFAIK the problem with cheaper plastic adapters is they are flimsy, meaning the sound the speaker makes is lost as the mounting adapter vibrates with it, causing the energy the speaker should be pushing into the air to be reduced, wood adapters are just sturdier and less prone to shaking as the speaker works.
Off the shelf brackets can tend to be more flexible and not as rigid, some are worse than others. When you custom make adapters you can control the quality. Doors are very prone to moisture, you definitely want to use a more stable material like ABS, acrylic, or HDPE.
I had a 2013 Impreza, which had THE WORST stock stereo I have ever experienced. The car is built like a tin can, the speaker magnets do not even stick to metal, the cones are plastic. I installed one of the cheapest Pioneer touch screen head units available with Apple Car Play (MVH-2300NEX) and a set of Alpine type S 6.5" 2 way speakers (SPS-610). I added Noico mat to the whole interior (russian made version of dynamat) and made an aluminum adapter plate for the rear doors, so I could replace all the original 5.25" speakers with the 6.5's. It went from being absolute crap, to blowing my previous Altima's Bose system out of the water. A sub would have brought it to the next level, but it really did sound great for daily driving.
Tip: if your vehicle has noise cancellation, you will want to either remove the mics or trim the wires (I removed the mics, was easy). Noise cancellation actually uses the sound system to do so and it is calibrated using the stock speakers, so after market speakers will sound like garbage unless you disable NC. You'll especially want to do this with bass!
Every vehicle I've done a straight aftermarket speaker swap on hasn't sounded as good as stock. Putting a good 2 channel on stock speakers nets much better results imo.
quality info presented in the video, but please introduce some audio samples. try to add a before/after comparison on at least a single test track - 10-20 seconds long - not much. just to have an idea. judging an upgrade by someone reaction is not relevant at all.
To be completely honest, just adding in tweeters if you have none, or replacing the tweeters with aftermarket ones makes the biggest difference. An aftermarket radio with stock speakers is going to sound way better than aftermarket speakers powered by a stock radio. Best way to power aftermarket speakers is a powerful aftermarket head unit or better yet, a 4 channel amp in something like 50-100x4 RMS per channel.
Hi Mark, i was wondering, everytime you test a system, you play royality free music. so, can you give us a play list with good bass music that you think is great. or even share your play list ?
I tossed the factory speakers in my 2017 F150 Platinum. Opted for Kicker replacements. Massive difference with the stock Sony system. Then I tossed the factory “sub” and added a Kicker Hideaway sub under the rear seat, and it took it to a different level. I was surprised at the thin gauge of the wires, which has to make a difference. I may end up retiring it with 16ga. I’d like your thoughts on that.
Most ppl don't go through all of this just to replace OEM speakers. I'll sign off on the 3D printed brackets, that's fine. But no one is sound proofing their doors. And if they are, how do they know how much of that new sound is the speakers, and how much is the Dyno-Mat?
If u want to go even 2 times better u need a sub and 2 amps (1 for the fronts 1 for the sub).. lot more work though.. but then u go from louder to am i in a club fr?
Greetings from Brazil and congratulations on the excellent content! I recently purchased a Toyota Corolla Cross and would like to improve its sound system, especially in the bass region. In your experience, which would be more effective, upgrading the door speakers and their acoustic treatment or simply adding an amplified subwoofer?
I swapped all of the speakers in my Yukon to Phoenix Gold components & coaxials, bypassed the factory Bose amp and ran them all off the aftermarket Sony H/U. I kept the stock Bose sub hooked up to the factory amp for now. Sounds much more rich and clear than before and the bass from the stock sub is more defined. It's interesting that there's a difference between car manufacturers who use the same brand for their stock sound systems, because the factory 9 speaker Bose system in my Altima sounds really good, probably one of the best sounding stock systems I've heard. Whereas the Bose systems in the GM cars don't sound great at all.
If you are running an audio shop, not it's not enough to just replace the speakers. (That's a business aspect). For normal people its perfect. Easier, cheaper, and so on. If you want the best and are in your car a lot, then you probably need a map to maximize the sound. He face says he was just fine with that upgrade.
I have a 2021 bmw x5 hifi system. I'll like to change my speakers. Any recommendations from brands from jl, alpine and etc. I dont want to use those morel, focal and high priced brands. There are 4in speakers.
I was just wondering yesterday how car audio installers know how to remove door paneling without damaging the cars.. I'm guessing there information includes glee to receive the top of a dash.. I just thought Porsche others host 6 at my went too show known for working on 911s..
I put hertz components in my honda car with a aftermarket deck and the tweeters blew after 6 months and i was told it was because they were being underpowered by the deck and i needed to use a amp on them. So basically never use higher quality component speakers if they are being underpowered. Maybe if my car had a stock amp it would have been less bad. Main thing is the rms of speaker and amp should be close if not higher on the amp side.
Great video. Quetsion: can you tell me if most OEM door speakers (Mazda 3 2016 specifically) are 2 ohms or 4 ohms? I am asking because if I just swap them for any aftermarket 4 ohm speaker, it will pull half tha wattage from the factory unit and will sound lower. If this is true, can I just add a 4 ohm resistor in parallel to the 2 conectors in the speaker to drop the 4 ohms down to 2 ohms? Thank you!
I feel like you were dismissing that awesome work with the 3D printer. I'd like more details. Did you modify an existing print file? Did you scan to create the ring?
Do you have some tricks to fix trim panels that may break one clip or two on removal? Even with the most care, some panel use very small clips that break on removal and can't be replaced and this create crackling. Pretty sure you have do deal with at least a few times...
Buy a bag of replacement ones, or just deal with it, we all break some, and you can have the odd broken one, and even just use silicon glue to keep it in place.
Hi Mark. Fan of your channel. I currently have a 2023 F150 XLT. Want to upgrade speakers first then maybe add amp later. Will the JL Audio C2650 work well with my factory stereo? Later I want to get an amp, but I am thinking of the Kicker Key with automatic tuning DSP. Will that have enough power for the JL Audio C2650?
Hey, I have a 2023 Cadillac XT6 with the Bose system Im going to keep my factory head unit but want to do a speaker upgrade as well as add in two JL 12tw3’s from a previous vehicle My question, what speakers would you recommend that would be a night and day difference from my factory system?
Trust me people speaker adapters are usually important and needed alot more than you realize, and as an example i had a set of 5 .25 kicker cs series speakers for a project truck i didn't end up getting along with a factory replacement stereo for the same vehicle but not one that particular vehicle was ever offered with, and the truck i did end up with the kicker cs series speakers would fit in the rear door speakers location but the front door speakers are different size, and they cost more than the same as the rear speakers for the matching series of cerwin vega hed r series 3 way 6x9's i end up getting and installed in the front door speakers locations in the truck it is a 2000 dodge ram laramie slt quad cab, and the magnet structure on the back of the speakers doesn't allow the power windows down more than about halfway, so they would need to be spaced out away from the front doors they have really decent bass response and sound great honestly but id about guess that the kicker cs series 6x9's i didn't get would have fit just fine with no adapter plate to space them out from the door needed, but i already have the complete set of cerwin vega hed r series door speakers... And I have even considered adding a dual electronics xpr82d amplifier for the right side and left side speakers probably a better setup than dodge used originally and splicing it into the rear doors, but it honestly doesn't need it i did end up changing the head unit to a 20005 pioneer deh model p3700mp mp3 CD player super tuner III D stereo and it sounds awesome with just the front speakers installed unfortunately though it is only halfway installed because i have managed to lose my install cage sleeve for mounting the stereo in the dash so I guess ill end up getting a used stereo around the same years as when they came out with the super tuner III D stereos because it honestly makes more sense to me to do that and have a good backup or a useable head unit for something else,than to spend the $25 online and only buy a cage sleeve.
“Special speaker gasket ring foam”. What’s so special about it? Does it double helix axle the eltromagmetism to the door panels which boosts and cancels midbass?
When i get my 2018 ram im bringing it to you do do a full build on it. Subs, doors, everything. I want it to be loud, crisp, and have ridiculous bass. Ill be boosting the truck, lowering it, my goal is to basically have a show truck that I daily and will probably be taking to shows as well.
I added Kenwood Speakers in my 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS 4D 1.8L I'm looking to upgrade my speakers yet again I was looking at The MTX Terminitrs how are they compared to say JL Audio and how good are JL Audio speakers & Tweeters?
What about powering some speakers with the Sony head unit that puts out 45 watts rms? Right now I have focal icu570 speakers all around that sound amazing with an alpine head unit that puts out 18 watts rms. They actually sound really good with so little power. I’m just tired of 4 channel amps. I always have bad luck with them.
I got mine on a ETON Micro 120.2 (different set) but it sound amazing though.. clarity is better on higher volumes.. but just going off ur headunit its lots better if ur not playing too loud.. With the eton and a 12''' sub i can get crazy sound levels and not have to worry about my speakers..
New to car audio but I just upgraded the front speakers and there was a slight audio improvement. I’m not ready to insert an amp yet but would an aftermarket head unit also make an impact on audio (I have a stock head unit)?
It really depends on the head unit you're installing. You're definitely getting a power upgrade to drive your speakers. But it's somewhat a peace of mind to know that you have a separate amp that could do more headroom than a limited size amp in your headroom.
Hi I have a 2020 ford explorer XLT and sound isn't the greatest can I just change speaker from OEM to aftermarket and sound better I asked around and people tell need a app because my head unit won't have enough power for the new speakers? Thank hope to hear back from you
Hey ya'll, very informative stuff. I just got a Honda Prologue EX and the stock speakers suck and I really want to swap them out. There is are a pair of 2.75" on the dash corners, a pair of 6x9's in the front doors and a pair of 6.5" in the rear doors. What would be the best approach in terms of speaker selection? I don't want to mess with crossovers or other components, I just want to do a hardware swap. I'm currently leaning towards 2-ways in the doors, the 6x9's (30-21,000 Hz), the 6.5's (43-21,000 Hz), and a pair of midrange (300-20,000 Hz) for the dash. No tweeters. The KS Series by Kicker for all 3. As you can see there is a lot of overlapping with the frequency responses, just want to make sure I'm not making things muddier when I want to make them clearer, more dyanmic and fuller. Thanks!
Here's two more helpful videos!
4 Reasons ONLY Upgrading Speakers might not sound good! - th-cam.com/video/lfgIU9JXSiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DRX_gzGocce3CJBn
Installing speakers? These techniques make a BIG difference! - th-cam.com/video/jPNy_Adb2vU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xmj5U5ZhVsJEQNyL
I forgot to mention in the video that we also did an RTA measurement of the OEM system alone prior to the speaker install. I'd like to get another measurement now with just the speakers installed and then one with the final system. Would you guys be interested in seeing those results?
Thanks for watching! Don't forget you can save on your next car audio purchase with show sponsor Crutchfield here - www.crutchfield.com/I-rCAFcYTB/rf/ef28766d-4881-4df6-9f8b-287145ad3d36/
Yes!
Yes to seeing the results.👍
Yea boi,test results peas and carrots
Do you sell those 3d printed adapters? I have that exact same car and would be interested in a set
Yes to seeing the before and after data especially with no amp. Also interesting would be a before and after of the dampening materials and foam rings - but not changing any other variables so you get a true picture of their effect. And a summary of your experience with various manufacturers of sound deadeners, CLDs, etc.
To answer your question, that is definitely a video you should do. Everyone thinks upgrading speakers from OEM makes a difference, we sould love to see real world analysis especially without an amp. Thanks for all your great work!! You do a phenomenal job on your channel. Ive been a fan for some years now. Keep up the great work.
I’ve replaced mine and others OEM speakers a lot and you can tell a difference even without an amp. Where you notice the biggest difference is when you get rid of the entire factory system and run aftermarket head unit and amps. The sound quality of a good aftermarket system is so much better but it needs to be setup and tuned correctly.
But its really depends or the corrente speakers you have, you have cars with a lot good speakers like Bowers and wilkings, he can do a video but its relative, because depends on the speakers that you car have and what speakers you get, and off course the radio that you are using
@@ProGamerKF in every stock system that I’ve ripped out that claims to have a high end stereo system from a premium manufacturer it’s more about that manufacturer deciding speaker placement based on what the space the car manufacturers give them to use as well as the overall tuning. I’ve never seen a system that didn’t cut bass response or utilize low quality to mid range speakers. As I said I’ve never touched complete system rebuild that didn’t sound infinitely better than the factory system. Better head units, better crossovers, better amplification, better speakers, etc,etc…
@@P-J-W-777 you cant compare with amp, or other units, but you have premium Cars that have like 20 speakers on a car with amp.
Maybe you just touched Peugeot and Renault sound system the high levels of volvos, Audi, and stuff like that they até awesome, and you had to spend more than 1.5k some Times to have similar sound.
And they use special speakers with sizes that you normally dont have selling everywhere
@@ProGamerKF nope I’ve upgraded audio systems in various cars including Rolls Royce, Porsche and all the way down to fords. People kept claiming how good the Tesla audio systems were from factory yet so many people are upgrading them and noticing big differences.
this is the kind of content we mortals can understand better. Thanks
A little known secret from before the days of dedicated subwoofers, is that when speakers face each other, for example, in the doors, you have a slight increase of bass response. I’ve known this since 1974. This makes it critical that you install them very solidly to the inner metal door skin if possible.
Having phase reverse on the sub control is a MUST, it makes all the difference.
I don't know what Delco was doing back in 1996 but the sound in the Chevrolet Lumina LS sedan was quite impressive. Bass Mekanik 5.0 sounded quite nice on the 6x9's.
I did the same in my 17 Corolla, front and rear speakers, Infinity Reference with sound deadening. What a difference!! Highly recommend doing speakers as the bare minimum in any vehicle.
Also, I did speakers OEM replacement on my corolla 17, however I added amp and I went through kenwood kac 1814 ehich was great and now landed with hertz hcp 4 which is really awesome. Speaker hertz dieci, but tweeters again, changed to cento huuuge difference.
sound deadening is the bare minimum, not the speakers. Installing aftermarket speakers might even have a negative impact on bass, while sound deadening will improve bass response even with stock speakers. I always recommend sound deadening as the first thing to do
@@tomkocur I am planning on doing this as well. Should I use a speaker baffle also?
did you find the infinity reference really bright?
depends if you have a underpowered headunit
I really like watching you talk to your installer Brian, who is new to this. It really adds a different element that the solo-high end videos you produce don’t have. The way you describe the process (probably subconscious) is really unique versus your traditional videos. I think you should do a playlist/low intensity series, with you training Brian. Walk us noobs through the process with Brian. I no doubt believe this would benefit the car audio community (at entry level). A different/welcomed twist.
I think Brian is the owner of the car. And in the original video he mentioned he's building the system for his brother in law (I think).
So Brian is the brother in law.
I upgraded the factory speakers on my renault megane, the sound quality and volume was better since the aftermarket speakers had higher sensitivity, but they had some distortion from the twitters, which forced me to install an amplifier, now it sounds great
Doing exactly this in a 2022 NX Tucson mid spec with the base level stereo made a huuuuuge difference. I noticed the car had bare metal opposite the door woofer positions, so sound deadening alone no doubt helped tremendously. I used 93db sensitivity JBL SQ speakers, and the high sensitivity on factory head power is astonishingly better already. Super bright top end, and the mid bass is endlessly impressive. So good I've suggested on our local Hyundai group this is a highly recommended upgrade in itself. I'm going the whole hog with a sub and DSP and amps, but the speaker swap alone was a lot better than even I expected. The Hyundai speakers were as cheap as they come, so that's obviously a big factor.
2021 Volvo. I upgraded the speakers from HPA to Bowers and Wilkens. Marked improvement. Adding a sub amp sealed the deal. Quite pleased.
I swapped the rear door speakers in my Explorer for a pair of Focal Flax 6.5 coaxial I had laying around. I also 3D printed my speaker adapters.
No amp, base stereo, and they sound really good. They’ll sound even better when I eventually/finally drop the amps and dsp in.
The Focal speakers noted are fantastic....I have all Focal in my car coupled with a 12" JL Audio sub....heavenly.
Agree 100 % , Amps are to boost the volume and leave you deaf , in my Camry XLE I’m using the factory radio and “Kenwood” all the way around including sub amp and subwoofer, there are hundreds of brands and speakers better than “Kenwood” but those work perfectly with my radio without amp , just trying to make it simple and get a balance between audio quality , budged , time and work, however I spent time and money to improve vehicle acoustic characteristics adding some “ dynamat” and extra sound deadening materials 🤷♂️
I just swapped in Focal Flax 6.5 two-way separates @ front door/dash. Alpine 70W amp with built in DSP. 2024 Corolla Cross. Soundskin. The quality, detail in sound is there. You will be happy. There is plenty enough sound and punch for me. I had a 2022 CC with factory JBL, including amp and sub. I once had K2 Powers, so my ear is pretty fine tuned and discerning. I listen to hard rock, metal and prog/fusion. Good luck.
In all my time installing music in my car, I never knew about those speaker adapters. Wow, everyday I learn something new. Thanks guys 😀
Every car I've ever owned my first upgrade has been upgrade oem speakers. It's a simple yet dramatic change. If you Do your research it's an easy install with the correct tools.
I fully agree...
I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma with the base stereo system. I did a complete system swap and installed a new head unit, new speakers, self contained subwoofer behind the back seat and it sounded good. At the time, I left the factory tweeters in the front door in place. The system was still missing something. Kicker makes a tweeter for Subarus that fit the door but the wiring was a little different for my particular year. So, i adapted the factory harness to the new kicker tweeter and wow, that made a huge difference. I also did full sound treatment under the rear seat, back wall and inside the doors. My Tacoma's stereo system sounds amazing now.
The guest was great! Love to see another guy in the video. Please have more guests. That guy is just a fun time!
Crutchfield is legendary.
They really make things pain free. Don't like it? Send it back. You got 60 days. I'm making use of that as we speak :)
With aftermarket speakers, I’ve noticed mids and highs are vastly improved but bass drops off. Adding even a small sub fixes all of that. I had JL Audio C5 components that I left in the car on trade in (couldn’t find the factory speakers I removed) and listened to it on the factory head unit. Amazing. Just not as loud as with an amp.
Yeah generally the speaker design makes the aftermarket speakers less efficient than factory (depends of course on model), so usually the "max volume" isn't perceived as being as loud. I discuss more here - th-cam.com/video/lfgIU9JXSiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ezCzrZa-24wCFwZY
U can get some aftermarkets that have a high impedence.. or are like 2-3 ohm with high impedence.. those are good dropin replacements.... but then when u want to amplify they might fall short a bit.. but u can get great sound from less watts..
I think the design approach is that they plan on the owner adding a subwoofer. So they design every component to be best at its effective frequency, instead of trying to good at everything and failing at that.
I bought a similar Hyundai Elantra last year, and would love to upgrade rhe stock sound system. Ive heard mixed reviews of whether upgrading soeakers only, would make a substantial difference. Different answers from different installers. Everyone recommends the JL 2 series, but ive gotten different answers on whether just using the stock head unit, without sn amplifier, will make a difference, because it wont be pushing out any more power. After seeing this video, I'd feel more comfortable making the smaller investment. Thank you for posting!
@CarAudioFabrication I love you for listening to Subtronics and REZZ. You're unironically the GOAT for that. They're my favorite DJs
It depends on how new the car is. My 04 Corolla, new speakers, aftermarket head unit with built in cross over, 1x12" Alpine Type R on 250w Rockford Fosgate Monoblock. Ive gotten ALOT of comments on the clarity of sound. Not superloud, but still get that bass you like.
And for those coming in that are just planning on upgrading your speakers and not running an amp my biggest advice would be to shop for "weaker" speakers instead of big high end ones. Goal is to match the output of your radio since most aftermarket radios only put out like 15-20w rms each channel which is some cases is even less than stock audio systems. The lower wattage rating the speaker is the easier it physically is to run whereas those premium high power speakers require a lot more physical power to run the coils (ie a 20w speaker is far louder at 20w than a 50-100w at 20w) You'd end up with less bass and volume with a "nicer" 100w Alpine speaker than if you just got that 20w Kicker you thought wouldn't get loud enough
The best thing when considering only updating the speakers, is its best to not buy super high end, high power door and rear speakers. Buy lower powered ones that will be driven better by a factory (or non) unit. I installed a recent JVC unit and some brand name, but lower power speakers in my car, and have a discerning ear. Those 30-75 watt handling speaker's are driven perfectly with the head unit. If i went with 100-150, higher end components, it would not have sounded very good.
That is extremely golden advice. The only thing I’d add is pay attention to the ohm load.
This is what I was looking for! I remember years ago replacing factory speakers with upgraded only to find they weren’t as loud and didn’t sound better.
I have a 2013 Miata stock the speakers suck what do you recommend not sure if I want to put new unit in yet but sounds horrible
@@papabear007 u can try "BLAM relax"
Another way to do this is get neo speakers. They dont require a lot of power and they get super loud. Look at the sensitivity. The higher the better
My wife needed new speakers in her car and after getting them replaced the mid bass made a big difference. However with the sound treatment I'm sure that made an even bigger impact. I would still add an amp because why not if you're already installing speakers. I can't wait to add new speakers in my car, so far I only have subwoofers and sound treatment and a kenwood excelon stereo.
Yes, we will be adding a DSP amp, but was still a fun experiment.
I’m impressed with the results.
I was always adding amps and maybe I didn’t need them. Especially with these better install techniques. 😊
With a little effort, I have often been able to repurpose the OEM speaker frame (after removing the old speaker cone and plastic frame) as an adapter for the aftermarket speaker.
Nice! whenever I am only going to change speakers I look for the most efficient ones to minimize the possibility of distortion
It's a relative change that doesn't always cause any improvement at all. I have tested this before and it all depends on how good the speakers are relative to the head unit in the first place. If you have a decent source but rubbish speakers, yes it will make a big difference. If you have a decent source but your speakers are already decent, it will make no obvious difference, particularly at low volumes. Best way to get an idea is to research the power output of the source head unit and get one of the speakers out and see what it's rated at. If the radio outputs 30w but the speakers are only 5w, there is a good chance it will make a significant difference but if the radio only outputs 15w and the speakers are already 20w, the speakers wont make any difference because the head unit cant provide any more even if the speakers can handle more going to them.
Nice to hear you mention Rezz.
Mark you should offer 3d printed adapters now!
We changed the speakers in my daughter’s Camry (non JBL) and added a JL amp and sub and the difference was amazing. I want to change the speakers only on my Lexus LC500 but am being told that the oem are 8ohms so I can’t without changing amp
Just increase resistance on the line or add two speakers in series for each location. 😂
cant u just run 4 ohm speakers (that are a bit better build/heavier) they would probably be fine.. would be worse if ur car had a 2 ohm system.. like these 8 ohm speakers are probably 10-20 watts.. if u get 100 watts rms 4 ohm speakers ur never going to blow those up.. and if u do its just the headunit..
@@KeithGrier-hz5hy well then get 8 ohm speakers, or you can wire in series two 4 ohm speakers to get 8 ohms.
If you have never used higher end, larger pro audio drivers, you should check them out. I know you are into more top shelf SQ gear, but I think you would be surprised the quality of the sound you can get from some of these larger drivers and horns when installed properly and given proper bandpass crossovers
thats a mighty resource to have ,,, a shared site showing tips and tricks for door stripping .
Got some focal ICU 165s sitting in my closet been waiting to find a component set to go with it, also a 660.5 kicker sadly rated 65 watts and the ICUs are 70 . The component set up part of the video really helped thanks so much if anyone has recommendations to components I love to hear everyone’s ideas wish you all great health and wealth
That Black Ice track is a good test track.
whoooooo subtronics and rezz black ice what a banger im glad you love the song I love playing that song with my after market system
Just upgradingvthe speakers in an E/F series BMW makes a great difference on the E63.
The factory setup on them are slightly different in that only the underseats have amplification.
The left the door and rear shelf speakers powered of the head unit.
Next step is wire up the Rainbow Ipaul to the comps underseats.
That should improve it some more.
Black ice, a man of culture we meet alas 🤝😏
Thanks for providing the name of the song. I checked it and it sounds awesome. Really good to test a sound system, Any other songs you would like to share? Perhaps would be a good idea to a next video?
I like using pro type drivers on oem systems due to their high efficiency,they play cleaner and louder on the 10w provided.
Right now I have my Kenwood Excelon DMX706s powering my Morel Tempo Ultra Mark II 6.5 components and Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 6x9’s. They sound amazing. At first I had just the stock speakers being powered by the Kenwood. I have an JL Audio VX800/i8 and a JL Audio 12TW3v3-D-8for a subs I intend to bridge channels 7 and 8 to the sub.
The stock speaker from Elantra seems pretty hefty! Some car come with worse speaker at stock, and aftermarket speaker really does add a lot.
WOW!! I seriously just learned a lot. You just helped me when I do my own install. Thank you. Your work is top quality
I love your installation, but I'd love this even more if you used some royalty-free music (or did a less-than-30-second playback that is totally legal within copyright laws) of select tracks to show the difference in an article like this.
You definitely show some great quality installation. I might do a follow-up article on what to look for in speakers if you're not ready to upgrade your amp yet (e.g., sensitivity, other qualities that can make upgraded speakers good without a replacement amp, or until such time as you can afford one).
You cannot hear the difference because you are listening to YOUR speakers that you are playing the video on. I've been down this road before. I'll evaluate a subwoofer, then play the sound on video and I'll have geniuses telling me "that sucks! There's no bass!" But it's because they are listening on their iPhone. Also, unless I clip the microphone to oblivion then the assumption is "it's not loud".
Unfortunately we live in an age where everyone is a critic and no one can ever be positive about anything and I'm simply over being ragged on for sharing knowledge and enjoying a hobby. So I'll pass.
Quick question, which is material is best for speaker adapters, ABS plastic or wood, reason as to why I'm asking I've heard a few people talking trash about the plastic adapters over wood adapters. Keep up the great work and thanks for knowledge sharing
AFAIK the problem with cheaper plastic adapters is they are flimsy, meaning the sound the speaker makes is lost as the mounting adapter vibrates with it, causing the energy the speaker should be pushing into the air to be reduced, wood adapters are just sturdier and less prone to shaking as the speaker works.
Off the shelf brackets can tend to be more flexible and not as rigid, some are worse than others. When you custom make adapters you can control the quality. Doors are very prone to moisture, you definitely want to use a more stable material like ABS, acrylic, or HDPE.
Thanks for the explanation bro, I really appreciate it
Thanks for the clarity, much appreciated
I had a 2013 Impreza, which had THE WORST stock stereo I have ever experienced. The car is built like a tin can, the speaker magnets do not even stick to metal, the cones are plastic. I installed one of the cheapest Pioneer touch screen head units available with Apple Car Play (MVH-2300NEX) and a set of Alpine type S 6.5" 2 way speakers (SPS-610). I added Noico mat to the whole interior (russian made version of dynamat) and made an aluminum adapter plate for the rear doors, so I could replace all the original 5.25" speakers with the 6.5's. It went from being absolute crap, to blowing my previous Altima's Bose system out of the water. A sub would have brought it to the next level, but it really did sound great for daily driving.
Subaru really put 98% of their budget in the drivetrain
Tip: if your vehicle has noise cancellation, you will want to either remove the mics or trim the wires (I removed the mics, was easy). Noise cancellation actually uses the sound system to do so and it is calibrated using the stock speakers, so after market speakers will sound like garbage unless you disable NC. You'll especially want to do this with bass!
nice upgrade to X1C!!!! you inspired me to get a 3D printer for car audio use. i wish i can show the adapter i made😁
Crutchfield is a great company and 3D printers are awesome!
great video man! I agree the install is super important!
Can you sell the custom Elantra adapters? I don't like the ones that came from crutchfield.
really love your channel and your good work and videos. keep it up that way. always really helpful. thks for that and greets from germany.
Wow that’s crazy it sounds so good
Every vehicle I've done a straight aftermarket speaker swap on hasn't sounded as good as stock. Putting a good 2 channel on stock speakers nets much better results imo.
quality info presented in the video, but please introduce some audio samples. try to add a before/after comparison on at least a single test track - 10-20 seconds long - not much. just to have an idea. judging an upgrade by someone reaction is not relevant at all.
To be completely honest, just adding in tweeters if you have none, or replacing the tweeters with aftermarket ones makes the biggest difference. An aftermarket radio with stock speakers is going to sound way better than aftermarket speakers powered by a stock radio. Best way to power aftermarket speakers is a powerful aftermarket head unit or better yet, a 4 channel amp in something like 50-100x4 RMS per channel.
Hi Mark, i was wondering, everytime you test a system, you play royality free music. so, can you give us a play list with good bass music that you think is great. or even share your play list ?
The song Soulfly III by Soulfly is a great test track for mids and highs with its guitars and chimes.
I tossed the factory speakers in my 2017 F150 Platinum. Opted for Kicker replacements. Massive difference with the stock Sony system. Then I tossed the factory “sub” and added a Kicker Hideaway sub under the rear seat, and it took it to a different level. I was surprised at the thin gauge of the wires, which has to make a difference. I may end up retiring it with 16ga. I’d like your thoughts on that.
Do the foam speaker surrounds not absorb some of the sound waves? That surprised me that such a soft material would aid in sound wave direction.
Most ppl don't go through all of this just to replace OEM speakers. I'll sign off on the 3D printed brackets, that's fine. But no one is sound proofing their doors. And if they are, how do they know how much of that new sound is the speakers, and how much is the Dyno-Mat?
Love Subtronics and Rezz!
I did this with my honda and it sounded 4x better. It got louder, clearer and boomer.
If u want to go even 2 times better u need a sub and 2 amps (1 for the fronts 1 for the sub).. lot more work though.. but then u go from louder to am i in a club fr?
@@larsvegas1505 you could get a powered sub if you only want to add a sub. I did that and my system sounds good
Greetings from Brazil and congratulations on the excellent content!
I recently purchased a Toyota Corolla Cross and would like to improve its sound system, especially in the bass region. In your experience, which would be more effective, upgrading the door speakers and their acoustic treatment or simply adding an amplified subwoofer?
I just wish Crutchfield were in the UK
Wish we could be friends because I know you don’t work on customers cars. Good work.
daaaang...subtronics shout out coming in 🔥🥵
throw some Yheti on em next but don't forget to...crack the window
I swapped all of the speakers in my Yukon to Phoenix Gold components & coaxials, bypassed the factory Bose amp and ran them all off the aftermarket Sony H/U. I kept the stock Bose sub hooked up to the factory amp for now. Sounds much more rich and clear than before and the bass from the stock sub is more defined. It's interesting that there's a difference between car manufacturers who use the same brand for their stock sound systems, because the factory 9 speaker Bose system in my Altima sounds really good, probably one of the best sounding stock systems I've heard. Whereas the Bose systems in the GM cars don't sound great at all.
What do u think on using baffles in the doors to protect the speakers from getting wet. And when is the final install...
...will sound even better when you install sound-deadening material..i prefer the sticky kind.
If you are running an audio shop, not it's not enough to just replace the speakers. (That's a business aspect). For normal people its perfect. Easier, cheaper, and so on. If you want the best and are in your car a lot, then you probably need a map to maximize the sound. He face says he was just fine with that upgrade.
@9:30PM OMG NO WAY! I love both those artists, that song is actually my reference song cause I’m trying to install speakers in my car too
Hi, is there a follow up video with the amp install?
Will you ever offer 3d printed speaker brackets for purchase?
Probably not because people expect a custom one off ring that took 2 hours to design for $9 because that's what the mass produced ring cost.
You might want to have a look at PETG fillament.
I have a 2021 bmw x5 hifi system. I'll like to change my speakers. Any recommendations from brands from jl, alpine and etc. I dont want to use those morel, focal and high priced brands. There are 4in speakers.
I was just wondering yesterday how car audio installers know how to remove door paneling without damaging the cars..
I'm guessing there information includes glee to receive the top of a dash..
I just thought Porsche others host 6 at my went too show known for working on 911s..
my fiestqa i changed thw woofers they dont sound as good as the oem but tweeters sound much better now
I put hertz components in my honda car with a aftermarket deck and the tweeters blew after 6 months and i was told it was because they were being underpowered by the deck and i needed to use a amp on them. So basically never use higher quality component speakers if they are being underpowered. Maybe if my car had a stock amp it would have been less bad. Main thing is the rms of speaker and amp should be close if not higher on the amp side.
Great video. Quetsion: can you tell me if most OEM door speakers (Mazda 3 2016 specifically) are 2 ohms or 4 ohms? I am asking because if I just swap them for any aftermarket 4 ohm speaker, it will pull half tha wattage from the factory unit and will sound lower. If this is true, can I just add a 4 ohm resistor in parallel to the 2 conectors in the speaker to drop the 4 ohms down to 2 ohms? Thank you!
Please do a video to help us off roaders and boat owners get the most SQ out of our systems !
I feel like you were dismissing that awesome work with the 3D printer. I'd like more details. Did you modify an existing print file? Did you scan to create the ring?
Confirmation is the best with evidence. Helps me convince my wife .
Do you have some tricks to fix trim panels that may break one clip or two on removal? Even with the most care, some panel use very small clips that break on removal and can't be replaced and this create crackling. Pretty sure you have do deal with at least a few times...
Buy a bag of replacement ones, or just deal with it, we all break some, and you can have the odd broken one, and even just use silicon glue to keep it in place.
Hi Mark. Fan of your channel. I currently have a 2023 F150 XLT. Want to upgrade speakers first then maybe add amp later. Will the JL Audio C2650 work well with my factory stereo? Later I want to get an amp, but I am thinking of the Kicker Key with automatic tuning DSP. Will that have enough power for the JL Audio C2650?
JL and Kicker are mortal enemies from back in the day. Get a JL amp to run them.
Hey, I have a 2023 Cadillac XT6 with the Bose system
Im going to keep my factory head unit but want to do a speaker upgrade as well as add in two JL 12tw3’s from a previous vehicle
My question, what speakers would you recommend that would be a night and day difference from my factory system?
The JL C2 speaker you didn’t install the crossover it came with don’t you need it ? , is that because of the JL vxi amp built in DSP?
Trust me people speaker adapters are usually important and needed alot more than you realize, and as an example i had a set of 5 .25 kicker cs series speakers for a project truck i didn't end up getting along with a factory replacement stereo for the same vehicle but not one that particular vehicle was ever offered with, and the truck i did end up with the kicker cs series speakers would fit in the rear door speakers location but the front door speakers are different size, and they cost more than the same as the rear speakers for the matching series of cerwin vega hed r series 3 way 6x9's i end up getting and installed in the front door speakers locations in the truck it is a 2000 dodge ram laramie slt quad cab, and the magnet structure on the back of the speakers doesn't allow the power windows down more than about halfway, so they would need to be spaced out away from the front doors they have really decent bass response and sound great honestly but id about guess that the kicker cs series 6x9's i didn't get would have fit just fine with no adapter plate to space them out from the door needed, but i already have the complete set of cerwin vega hed r series door speakers... And I have even considered adding a dual electronics xpr82d amplifier for the right side and left side speakers probably a better setup than dodge used originally and splicing it into the rear doors, but it honestly doesn't need it i did end up changing the head unit to a 20005 pioneer deh model p3700mp mp3 CD player super tuner III D stereo and it sounds awesome with just the front speakers installed unfortunately though it is only halfway installed because i have managed to lose my install cage sleeve for mounting the stereo in the dash so I guess ill end up getting a used stereo around the same years as when they came out with the super tuner III D stereos because it honestly makes more sense to me to do that and have a good backup or a useable head unit for something else,than to spend the $25 online and only buy a cage sleeve.
Proper adapters definitely go a long way. Thank you for watching!
Do you sell those speaker adopters for 2024 Chevy Equinox EV? Crutchfield doesn’t have it yet.
“Special speaker gasket ring foam”. What’s so special about it? Does it double helix axle the eltromagmetism to the door panels which boosts and cancels midbass?
When i get my 2018 ram im bringing it to you do do a full build on it. Subs, doors, everything. I want it to be loud, crisp, and have ridiculous bass. Ill be boosting the truck, lowering it, my goal is to basically have a show truck that I daily and will probably be taking to shows as well.
Always thought it was a bad idea to mix series of speakers
@CarAudioFabrication do you find that the external crossovers work/sound better than the filters?
I added Kenwood Speakers in my 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS 4D 1.8L I'm looking to upgrade my speakers yet again I was looking at The MTX Terminitrs how are they compared to say JL Audio and how good are JL Audio speakers & Tweeters?
cool song you recommended
Bigger battery or secondary 🤔 how's it work?
What about powering some speakers with the Sony head unit that puts out 45 watts rms? Right now I have focal icu570 speakers all around that sound amazing with an alpine head unit that puts out 18 watts rms. They actually sound really good with so little power. I’m just tired of 4 channel amps. I always have bad luck with them.
I got mine on a ETON Micro 120.2 (different set) but it sound amazing though.. clarity is better on higher volumes.. but just going off ur headunit its lots better if ur not playing too loud.. With the eton and a 12''' sub i can get crazy sound levels and not have to worry about my speakers..
03:16 Schepeaker 😄
You can use non- copyright music , ex : hanudixit and etc
New to car audio but I just upgraded the front speakers and there was a slight audio improvement. I’m not ready to insert an amp yet but would an aftermarket head unit also make an impact on audio (I have a stock head unit)?
It really depends on the head unit you're installing. You're definitely getting a power upgrade to drive your speakers. But it's somewhat a peace of mind to know that you have a separate amp that could do more headroom than a limited size amp in your headroom.
Hi I have a 2020 ford explorer XLT and sound isn't the greatest can I just change speaker from OEM to aftermarket and sound better I asked around and people tell need a app because my head unit won't have enough power for the new speakers? Thank hope to hear back from you
Hey ya'll, very informative stuff. I just got a Honda Prologue EX and the stock speakers suck and I really want to swap them out. There is are a pair of 2.75" on the dash corners, a pair of 6x9's in the front doors and a pair of 6.5" in the rear doors. What would be the best approach in terms of speaker selection? I don't want to mess with crossovers or other components, I just want to do a hardware swap. I'm currently leaning towards 2-ways in the doors, the 6x9's (30-21,000 Hz), the 6.5's (43-21,000 Hz), and a pair of midrange (300-20,000 Hz) for the dash. No tweeters. The KS Series by Kicker for all 3. As you can see there is a lot of overlapping with the frequency responses, just want to make sure I'm not making things muddier when I want to make them clearer, more dyanmic and fuller.
Thanks!