4 Reasons ONLY Upgrading Speakers might not sound good!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- You just finished installing a new set of speakers in your car to upgrade the factory speakers. You turn on the audio system for the first time and... well it just doesn't sound that much better, or perhaps the new aftermarket speakers sound worse! Why is this and how can we fix it? Let's discuss speaker size, efficiency, how OEM manufacturers make cheap speakers sound good and more!
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Another important thing that can impact your speaker upgrade performance is the INSTALL!
I have a full video focused on best installation practices for speakers here: th-cam.com/video/jPNy_Adb2vU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and being in our community!
Thank you very much for replying. I really didn't expect you to, but thank you! I watched that video as a link from the original, and I just watched it again. I am going to schedule some time to take my 2 front door covers off and fix what I'm sure I missed when installing them.
If that doesn't fix it, then I'll probably save up and get some speakers that are less shrill, unless adding an inline resistor and/or crossover might help.
I really don't know enough to shake a stick at, but would really like my purchase to be worth the money.
Hey,
What would you recommend for someone who wants to find out the frequency response wave form chart graph signature thingy of their current car audio system?
Is there a specific meter and frequency or tone generator app to play through that system to find this stuff out?
@@9fiveb180 i’m no expert-and I’m getting old-er-ha! What comes to mind is something like a white noise or pink noise generator, and a frequency analyzer. Things like this used to be made for home stereo and I think just listening environments in general. There’s probably an app made for telephones?
@@LTJR. yeah. That's more or less the very device or program or app thingy I was hoping to get the name of.
Maybe it's a spectral frequency analyzer or spectrometer or snarffblat? I dunno.
A whoziewhatsitnow-pro perhaps?
Most of OEM manufacturers uses woofers (do not confuse with subs) as regular speakers, using a wider range of the sound frequency starting from the lows to the middle, and most of aftermarket speakers, are manufactured as mid-range speakers, so the sound frequency is limited in the middle, leaving lows for the subs and highs for the tweeters. that´s why swapping this different kind of sepakers results in different sound.
my car ran woofers only, with small paper cones in the middle, so when i swapped over to a 2 way system with a tweeter, highs was so saturated and loud it just sounded loud and screechy, so i had to run a filter to go -6db on the tweeter to make it sound alright, not perfect, but enough untill i swapped to a full active system with new headunit.
I made the mistake of swapping my 4 stock door woofers for 2-ways when the car had dash tweeters. no amount of EQ could not get rid of the harsh and muddy highs and mids. ended up just snipping the tweeters from the front 2-ways and upgraded the dash tweeters separately as I didn't want to deal with returning the speakers and essentially buying the same speakers again. I'm pretty sure Infinity uses the same woofer for both their 2-way and component variants of a product line anyway. kept the two rears as 2-ways for any passengers in the back
Don't the "woofers" and "mid-range" drivers only play at whatever the crossover dictates? So long as the frequency range is within the capabilities of the woofer/driver, it will play it.
@@DescartesRenegade yes you would be correct. if you use a crossover then any speaker you put in will be cut off at the crossover point as long as it's capable. the issue is that most factory systems do not use crossovers and instead take advantage of the fact that woofers naturally roll off as the frequency gets higher. if you drop in a 2-way speaker it can actually play the full-range signal it's getting
Not to mention, aftermarket speakers are vastly superior in materials, voice coil etc. Some of them need much more power than a head unit alone provides. The most "premium" stock systems are mediocre at best compared to even "average" aftermarket stuff. I replaced my Camaro's "premium" sound system with Boston acoustics pro separates, amp and JL audio sub. There was no comparison.
It's hard to explain to most people that "Dropping in a set of 250 watt 6x9s" isn't gonna put out traffic lights from 2 blocks away. You're likely to find OE 15 watt paper speakers that work great with the underpowered head unit in the dash. Everything in a vehicle is built by the lowest bidder. If they can save $3 on every car - they will.
and those factory speakers have high efficiency ratings as they usually have small magnets, so the electrical field is easier to push through...
Not all cars buddy… lol
The ones YOU BUY
Except on older Lexus cars.
The original speakers + subwoofer combo is actually pretty good. Wanted to upgrade my setup, but my car hifi specialist advised me against it, as he saw the overall quality of the speakers.
Needed some EQ-ing to be perfect, but a parametric equalizer can fix the bassy tendency out of the overall sound, that tend to be very rich with excellent dynamic.
@@exceptionallife4768 hell yea 😂. Newer cars have decent amps to push aftermarket speakers these days
I’m thinking ur comment is what the guy is saying…. Exactly
I changed out my factory radio with an aftermarket head unit and left the stock speakers. Sounds amazing and the bass hits hard.
What brand did you use? Im looking for a brand with good bass.
Exactly, that's where the processing happens. Speakers are secondary
I had to search for 2 ohm 6.5 and 6x9s to replace my stock speakers. JBL Stadiums fit the bill. The stock definitely had more bass but it's much clearer and cleaner now. Tech tip, I connected a Topping Dac to the system a boy it really came alive!!
Factory speakers tend to have more bass since they’re designed to have lower FS than after market speakers and are much more efficient than aftermarket speakers
Did you use an amp.or.does your car come with a component amp?
@Contact Info My car has a 360 watt amp.
Another thing to consider is the "stock impedance" of the OEM system. Car manufactures commonly use ODD impedance (2 or 6 OHM) to force you to use OEM speakers especially in "premium" (bose/JBL/Alpine etc) factory upgrades.
Surprised the video didn't cover this.
How does this affect aftermarket speakers?
@CFSlayer23Studios50423 all aftermarket car audio speakers are 4 ohm. Which means either they get half the power (if stock is 2 ohm) or they burn out the headunit or amp (if they are 2 ohm)
@@peterhermina656 Well that's not true. I'm right now looking at 2 ohm Audison AP's for my door mid bass upgrade, there's also at least DLS, Helix and CDT Audio speakers at 2 ohm...
@@iLoveTheseRemoras cdt are great. I have them. Also 2 ohm version
This was a lesson I learned in the late 90's when I first got into car audio. Installed a $300 set of component speakers on the stock stereo, and pretty much made every mistake mentioned here. Thankfully I was working for a sister company to that brand of speakers and got them at a 75% company discount, so the sting wasn't quite so bad.
I spent almost $1,000 on new speakers and fell to the same mistake
@@hadenfrench1561 I spent about $100 on RF's and have this dilemma atm. Not sure if it would be any different if I went anything more expensive.
So what do you do? Get an amp?
@@wongchai807 in my case, the biggest issue was a sub-optimal install, but also yes those speakers should have been powered by an amp instead of off the head unit.
@@Nareimooncatt okay because I want to upgrade some speakers on my new vehicle. I want it to sound good, sound quality and bass nothing crazy. So speakers and an amp is what I should? do?
I've literally been wondering this exact thing the last couple days and doing research on y, and then this video pops up?!? Amazing!
I agree with you. I have a 2015 Mustang GT and I changed the rear speakers because the magnet was very small. I replaced them with Polk coax the same size as the oem and honestly, I don't think they sound any better than the stock speakers.
Well, it's a Polk...
Thanks for The Info I was wondering why my new speakers wasn't loud anymore. After I made a purchase on my new aftermarket 6X9. I had my radio on in the car testing my new speakers comparing the sound with my Factory ones i said to myself my factory speaker sounds much louder
If possible, a quality aftermarket radio would help with this situation. If the factory radio cannot be replaced, than I recommend an external DSP and amplifier. You don't have to go crazy on cost, unless you really are trying to get maximum capacity from those speakers.
If you think louder sounds better, then you go for it. LOL
when replacing speakers in my corolla, I picked specifically a hertz K170 since it had high sensitivity and I was only going to get the 14-16w or so the stock system outputs. it does at least output that much power, and it ended up being plenty for my listening habits.
One thing to note. Anytime you're adjusting your EQ, use a song that fits the style of music you listen to. Sound guys do this at concerts after setting the PA. They play a track and use it as a reference for balancing (EQ ing) the PA. Also, try to use music with modern production rather than some classic rock song where you hardly hear any low end like the bass drum. I have always used the song "If I ever lose my faith in you" by Sting, to EQ a stereo. It has modern production that uses a well balanced mix of bass, mids and treble.
Well i installed new speakers, high end sql ones and for now they are still on my radio connected and they sound crazy good. Cant wait to get the amp for them!
Your right about adding an amplifier really helps to make your speakers louder. I have a $75 Sundown speaker that has a high sensitivity rating and is on 50rms watts and sounds amazing.
Adding an amplifier without changing a head unit or dsp still clip at same volume as stock speakers
Can you add an amplifier while keeping the original speakers?
@@covector4787 so basically if you change the amplifier, you have to change the speakers and the head unit screen?
I amplified my stock speakers with the Alpine power brick (Alpine KTP-445U) and it made a huge difference! I can play my music at a significantly lower volume while getting great sound. There’s better clarity, the stock speakers are not distorting. It’s only rated at 45rms at 4 channels. I don’t think I’ll need to be upgrading my stock speakers now. Maybe if the stock speakers blow lol
did you have to cut any harness to install amp
@@whodat3723 I had it done by a professional installer/car audio shop. They said it was an easy install.
Reason #5- sometimes OEM premium systems will use lower impedance speakers, so swapping a 2ohm to a 4ohm will draw significantly less power from the factory amplifier. Big problem. Recommend finding lower impedance aftermarket replacement speakers with high sensitivity for these applications. Specifically thinking in Toyota JBL systems, I always revert to suggesting either getting factory speakers from eBay, or using what I have my hands on which are 3ohm gladen alphas or the Audiofrog GS series, which are rated “4ohm” but actually are 2.2ohm speakers that can be dropped right into any JBL system.
I did my wife's car with 2 sets of 4 ohm on the factory amp . Wanted to see 2 ohms had a hard time looking for speakers too . Kick panal old school front, cut in 2 rear speakers back deck . Kenwood had 2 ohm speakers back in the day , vacant find them anymore 😢
How did he not mention this? Lol
What do you recommend for a stock bose system? The new pilot is okay..I just want more clarity and bass obviously but nothing crazy.
Interesting
@@wongchai807 jbl bass pro nano. or other under seat sub. or Bazooka bta6100.
Audio quality is all about the source! I always used to tell customers that upgrading their factory stereo will make even the stock speakers sound 50x better!
Also FIRST!
Clean power will make stock speakers come alive. In the old days they had really high impedance though and didn't let the amps run at their potential.
The source is the main element, I agree. If you have a poor quality source, everything will be negatively affected. But I disagree in one point: the speakers are ALWAYS the weak point in ANY original sound. 100% of the times. The speakers ALWAYS sould be replaced first. If the results are not the expected, then you add a DSP and amps. The main source (if it is the OEM factory stereo) is the LAST thing to change. If it was already replaced when you buy the car, then it doesn't really matter...
@guilhermev3545 All depends on the vehicle. When I was a kid, the cars all came with paper single cone speaker with something like 8 or 10 ohms of resistance. They were junk on day one. The factory deck would sound better and louder with a good 4ohm speaker.
@@scootypuffjr. yes. That is my point. The stereo unit is always the last thing to change... Usually the OEM are pretty decent. Sony, Clarion, JVC Kenwood nowadays...
@@guilhermev3545 Thanks for the info. I have to keep my factory radio. Can't change 13 Acura ILX factory head-unit. So, I'm upgrading the speakers. Until reading your comments, I thought I was going to be in trouble not being able to upgrade the factory head-unit. Found some high sensitivity component/co-axle speakers. Planning to get a 5 channel amp and one 12. Aiming for decent SQ, not so much SPL. Maybe like 85% SQ or something like that. Not trying to spend a ton cause I still wanna buy some decent wheels/tires.
Another reason aftermarket speakers sometimes sound worse is in some premium factory systems, the amplifier used is running at half an ohm per speaker. So when replacing with aftermarket 4 ohm speakers, you are also reducing your power output in the factory amp because the resistance is increased.
I don't know how many customers brought car into my shop for second opinion after putting aftermarket speakers into their car with factory Bose system and it didn't sound as good...lol...
@@loudelvis610 how did you bypass bose amp ???
@@bobjiorno9046 lol...I said second opinion...I didn't do original install...customer was just wondering why it wasn't as loud as it was before. Most of the cars I worked on were 80s and 90s cars so early Bose ...like amps on each speaker era...So I gave them the Bose speach...leave the entire Bose system factory and expect to replace an amp every year or 2 or pull it all out run new wires to all 4 speakers and have no more issues and better sound
I upgraded my BASE 2022 WRX speakers with Infinity speakers, and even without an aftermarket amplifier the sound is FAR better. Why? Because the speakers I chose were specifically chosen based on their efficiency. This was my paramount consideration.
I love Infinity speakers purely for that reason. no loss in volume without an amp compared to regular 4 ohm speakers I've tried. I added an amp later on and the extra power made the mid-bass tighter and less muddy. sounds great without an amp and even better with one
Is it because of the ohms?
which speakers did you go with? i want to change out the ones in my 2023 wrx premium.
Crutchfield is a great place to buy your audio equipment. They will match the correct speakers with the head unit so that you have maximum performance with any aftermarket audio system. Their customer service is excellent as well.
You can say that again
I always upgrade the audio system, just like I upgrade the engine and horsepower, etc. I my not turn it on every time I'm in the car. (sometimes the only music I want to hear is the exhaust) But when I do I want the best sound as possible.
It's slightly off-topic, but another issue for quite a few applications is installing aftermarket component speaker-tweeter combo sets on the front channels. Most automakers have the speaker and tweeter in parallel, creating a 2 ohm load. Most DIY installers will just plug into the factory wires leaving out the included crossover since many consider it too tedious to run the extra wiring...especially if the tweeters mount either to the pillars or to the dash. Thus, the aftermarket speaker/tweeter sets will try to draw too much off the stereo, resulting in hideous high pitch clipping from the tweeters if the volume is too high.
I have a Mercedes Metris van with notoriously poor quality speakers, BUT, they sound great anyway. I had a pair of 6-1/2" Pioneer 2-way speakers and put one in, and the bad stock speaker still had much better sound (it's the bass speaker only though). After reading numerous reviews of various brands, ALL of them came back with the same conclusion: the bass is weak. So I just decided I'll buy another set of cheap factory speakers and keep replacing them every time they fail. Unless anyone has a better suggestion? I don't want to change the head unit or do any other mods. I only want to change out the door speakers.
I put Sony 6.5” 4 way speakers in the dash and sound bar and I am very pleased with them. Got them on sale too.
I have always thought 6x9 would be a bit more "punchy" but the 6.5 just has a better sound quality. I have a set of both with a 10" sealed subwoofer. Sounds nice.
My factory stock speakers are wore out and staticy and I was looking to replace them, and eventually add in a new sound system so I can have bluetooth, as well as a subwoofer for base in my F-150.
I replaced the door speakers on my '17 Ford Focus with decent quality coaxial units, and also the door bass speakers and dash tweeters on my '24 Ford Maverick with very high quality Focal speakers. Both upgrades definitely improved the quality of the sound, but not up to the standard I was expecting. In general, factory speakers are really terrible as was the case with both of these swaps, and any set of decent aftermarket units will definitely improve the sound quality. But I have discovered that the factory radios in these two vehicles are very poor in quality. I don't have any confidence that replacing the amplifier will help, but I have no experience to back this up. To replace the radio on the Focus requires a kit with new dash panel that costs more than the new unit, and to date, no one is making a replacement radio for the Maverick. My solution with the Focus was to build a pair of 8" two way active speakers driven by a four channel amp, using an Audiocontrol electronic crossover that I would highly recommend (this is one case where the sponsor for this video really does make great quality products, and have been doing so for many decades now). I then drive these with a small portable music player that I mounted to the console with silicone, I plan to do the same in the truck, and I will spend the money and buy the Sony music player for this application.
Power is a special issue when people ask me about this. Some factory speakers play at a low ohm than aftermarket ones. Thats one of the reason why factory speakers, although less quality, play louder at about 3 ohms instead of a typical 4 ohm from aftermarket speakers. And like you said Mark, most of these factory systems are EQ'd from the factory to play at its best.
I noticed Bose likes to use VERY low impedance drivers in their systems. In some of GMC's trucks that do have a Bose system they use a dual coil subwoofer but each coil is like 0.5 ohms. I think Bose wires both of them to make 1 ohm since the amp they use outputs 100 watts at 1 ohm.
best SQ upgrade I have is a really good DAP
This is exactly the information I need. I just had that experience of upgrading speakers because they were rated so highly for my 2005 Nissan Xterra. The (JVC) six by nines that I bought sounded much worse than the stock speakers. I don’t understand it completely, I just know not matching new speakers for the factory-installed radio is not going to help. So many questions. What OHM and wattage are the stock speakers? The present ones are simply woofers. A 2-way, according to a review I read today is going to sound better than a 4-OHM. So confusing. And, in order to get the sound that I am looking for, I realize I would have to replace the entire sound system and speakers. Thanks for your information.
good tips. I swapped to alpine type r 6x9s and type r 6.5s and put a Rockford punch 400.4 on them and they do not sound as loud as I thought. and I upgraded my electrical system big time. my factory bose system sounds better
In my 98 Chevy all I did was swap out all the stock speakers with the cheapest Kicker's I could find........way better. Using a inexpensive Kenwood deck. Works great with my 2x12" sealed Kicker sub w 300 W amp.
For aftermarket speakers to sound their best, you need an amplifier. If you're just doing speakers because you cannot afford the amps, just get an aftermarket radio and tweak the EQ curves to make it sound good as a good start then later get a 4-channel amplifier and some speakers, retune it. It's pretty easy to do on a 2017 or older Toyota and most 00s and older cars. There are some cars come that come with a good sound system such as polypropylene cone woofers with decent-sized voice coils and magnets, dome tweeters, and external amplifier(s), such as the Harman Kardon Logic 7. There are some aftermarket SQ systems that bypass the head unit altogether and send the digital audio signal from a portable audiophile music player to the DSP.
or just buy a pair of aftermarket 2 ohm speakers (or 3 ohm) with a high impedence, that way u will be surprised how good a standard head unit can sound... just the 30 dollar aftermarket 200+ watt speakers dont do great.. they are all about the wattage.. wich noone needs. Also a second hand amp is like 50 bucks but the install time is like a day.. thats why most people just get a new one..
I would worry less about sensitivity, and more about RMS power. Stock speakers are around 15w, after market usually start at 50w and up. So that stock head unit is designed for 15w of power per channel, not 50w. Making your new speakers seem quieter.
I replaced my 09 Camry’s radio with an android head unit and then replaced all of the stock speakers and added a subwoofer (with a built-in amp).
The difference was day and night lol
@@ccarazay which brand speakers do u use. I was searching for a Camry owners comment as I own camry 2008 and planning to upgrade entire music system
Haha, I remember back in 1993 when I fist got into audio, bought a brand new pair of 6x9’s to put in the rear deck of my Honda Accord. All of a sudden, I had hardly any bass at all, took me weeks of listening and regrets, to finally find out I got the polarity wrong on one side!
You also need to pay attention to ohm load. Most factory speakers are lower ohm rated.
Very accurate. Many times when replacing speakers (even if you do after market headunit and speakers) the low end out put of the aftermarket does not come close to the factory speakers. It usually requires more power and some other work to get that sound back.
It's physics: cheap paper cone=light. It's equal to a small light car with small motor going as fast as a big heavy car with big motor. The small light car will handle better in turns, heavy one will be slow in turns ;)
But why is that
the actual real reason from it usually is not all about power distribution, it is usually from tye speaker cone that was used. generally speaking from my experience, a lighter paper cone and spider as well as foam surround results in better excursion of speakers thus leading to a more accurate sound reproduction, these plastic cones really sound sharp and can like. as compared to paper speakers. compared to stock for example.
"The actual real reason..."? Lol
Then make your own video if you think you know the truth
@@MrTactical45 You don't understand
Something is incredibly wrong with car audio. Its as if its thirty years behind home audio in terms of size. Sonos sound bar sonos one, sonos sub. That can absolutely fill a twenty by twenty room with sound. Even projecting sound upwards to bounce of ceiling. Some of these tiny little speaker pods produce more sound than a whole front stage in a car. There is no excuse for having massive power draws and huge encolsures in a vehicle just to get good sound.,.
I totally agree with you.
I have a Polk magnifi mini that I wish I had connected in a 2012 vw polo.
I've seen several times where people have installed aftermarket coaxial speakers when the stock system had component speakers. It never sounded better - the soundstage always suffered.. I never understood why that was a thing.
on a budget you can snip the 2-way speaker's tweeter wire to disable it and turn it into a woofer and then continue using the stock tweeters if the car has them. I did that to mine and later upgraded the tweeters separately and it sounds much better. if I had known that it would sound so harsh and muddy I would've gotten a set of component speakers from the start. not making that mistake again haha
I just wish all stock systems sounded loud and full with good sq
If ur not gonna add an amplifier, just make sure the speakers ur installing are the same watt power range, which usually most car speakers are around 50 watts
is that peak power or RMS
@@tholo86 rms
My rear speakers are 25 watt. I said f that got 150 rms speakers
@@BrianWaller-qe7gr On the stock headunit? doing that is a waste from my experience as the headunit will be working too hard to drive them. An amplifier with extra headroom above the speakers rms rating is useful.
I added Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x9s(doors) and 3.5"(dash) speakers to my 2010 Dodge Ram with stock head unit and they sound amazing. I have added Alpine S series speakers to a 2000 Camry and didn't like their sound.
Hi, but perhaps there is also another reason for the dissapointing performance after a swap to aftermarket speakers. I believe that the "trick" the car manufacturers use, in addition to what you mentioned, is that the OEM systems might the 2 ohms. So when you replace them with 4 ohms speakers, they are receiving (drawing) half the wattage of the 2 ohm OEM speakers. Perhaps you can you conect a 4 ohm resistor in parallel to the 4 ohm speaker to drop it down to 2 ohms??? Would this work? Thank you. Just subscribed!
I would love to know if a new Camry can be upgraded - I have no idea if it has an amp in addition to the head unit or not.
Even with a good amp, my JL c2-650x coaxial speakers didn’t really satisfy me. No matter what kind of music is playing through them they sound odd. I really like the sound of a paper speaker versus a polypropylene speaker.
What should I be looking for in those sensitivity numbers if I want to select aftermarket speakers for my factory head unit?
You would want to look for a higher sensitivity, which would mean the speakers are more efficient and will produce more sound per watt of power they receive.
Sensitivity of 90db or HIGHER, is best.
I tried to refrain from mentioning this but I couldn't. People will probably argue. That's fine just google it.
Paper or pulp in general is actually a much better material for a speaker between 200~5khz (approximately) because of the refraction and changes in the waves speed.
Almost all polypropylene cones are pretty crap in terms of frequency response because of the reason above. Even with the phase cap.
Polypropylene is heavier than paper for the same thickness. So paper usually has a better transient response.
In other words, paper cone speakers are "usually" more efficient, have a better transient response and a flatter frequency response overall.
But... They're just not bling.
Unpopular opinion
@@kensmechanicalaffair I knew it would be.
My 2014 forester w a premium Harmon Kardon system sounded great. The 6x9’s in the front doors sounded great but it was an old system so I had kicker 6x9’s put in w 2 3/4s in the dash and 6.5 in the rear. A diamond 5 channel amp and sub, with a new pioneer stereo. Now……it sounds horrible…..pingy and miss are completely gone in the front which is where the old system shined. I just wanted more low end and some new highs from the older system….idk what went wrong and now I’m not sure if it’s possible to get everything back the way it was bc of the factory tuning
I can definitly relate to that
I have an old Smart fortwo ED
first thing I did was to change the head unit because it was rebooting and the dealer could not find the problem, they did everything beside changing the head unit
Then I change the speakers and I found that that the base was lacking, I should have expect that because the volume inside the doors is not enough.
I don't want to add a sub because I need the trunk, so I will have a better sound system in my next car
I just wanted to upgrade my speakers on my VW passat 2020.. but it seems like that's not gonna happen. I can't even access apline's website to figure it out...
Doesn't aftermarket head units have amplifiers built in already? Factory stereos operate at much lower wattage.
As a 1st upgrade would you reccomend the stock amp or the stock speakers?
I have the exact same amp (D-5.1300) in my '22 Sierra pushing Polk MM1 6.5 component in the front and MM1 6.5 coaxial along with 2 JL TW3 12s in a sealed box. Not competition loud but the clarity and response are really nice.
The main reason is that most people who change their speakers have no idea what they are doing.
@ekimandersom4478 lol i am that people.🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@gcoutdoors904 Me too!😁😁
Pretty sure I'm shadow banned but here's the question again. So the issue I have is I changed the front 2 speakers on a brand new jetta. The front speaker sounds cleaner on the highs and mids but has little to no low end (bass). That's why I don't understand how the better Kenwood unit is cleaner, but with no bass.
I've recently picked up a 2015 Model S with the standard sound package & have been disappointed with how shallow the sound is. It's quite remarkably bad. I was hoping I could drop in some aftermarket speakers to the front & rear to help improve it from bad to decent, but your insight in this video now gives me pause. I'm not looking for anything extraordinary and was curious if there is any specific speaker that you'd recommend for my use case, or would I just be throwing money away? Thanks!
You mentioned a DSP. Adding one would be a significant improvement unless the car has one built in. I did not know any car would use a 2 ohm speaker. Before buying one should listen and compare speakers as there is a difference in sound.
A lot of cars with BOSE factory stereos were about 2 ohm spec. This also dates back to 15+ years ago. Its actually quite common.
My 2013 sentra has two ohms, it says right on the back of them
"moderately acceptable" is definitely an understatement....
Great Video!!! What would you recommend to utilize for upgrading all the speakers on a 2014 Lexus IS350 using factory Pioneer Amp?
Critical mass components. Worth every penny.
I've seen people do this. A factory head unit doesn't have much power at all. Aftermarket speakers with a lower efficiency and ohm rating just won't work.
Can I keep the original car speakers in my 2013 Ford edge but just buy an amplifier? I don’t know what’s going on, but when I turn on the volume really loud, the car automatically low the volume a little bit, especially if the artist is talking then after they stop talking and it’s just instrumental the volume goes up again
what if i got lower RMS aftermarket speakers? will that bring the sound in better?
Some systems are factory crossed over . Usually systems with factory amps.
$300 component speakers sounded horrendous with the factory head unit i had to change it as well & add a sub to make it sound amazing
This may be dumb question, but from a person who has zero to none experience with subs and amps. Can you just plug a amp into some subwoofers without a car? Then just play music from the speakers saying maybe in a garage or in the house? Trying to make it sound as simple as kan be
My vehicle had a center channel speaker in the dash, I’ve looked online but can’t find much information about how to navigate this when it comes to amps.
How do you setup an aftermarket system with a center speaker?
A quality sound system doesn't need the center speaker. When I had the entire stereo system in my 2020 F150 upgraded, I just eliminated the center speaker from the mix. Stereo sounds great without the center speaker. It's not really necessary with quality components.
@@Sagittarius-88 probably not but with CarPlay some apps like google maps or Apple Maps play the voice commands through this speaker
So the issue I have is I swopped the front 2 speakers on a brand new passat. The front speaker sounds cleaner on the highs and mids but has little to no low end (bass). That's why I don't understand how the better Kenwood unit is cleaner, but with no bass.
What if I am OK with the volume of the music with factory audio and what I need is clarity, shouldn't I upgrade the speakers first?
Hi Sir , I have a Hyundai Verna 2023. Rear speakers output isn't as good as front. Please guide to boost rear speakers performance. Thanks
What about when you upgrade just the head unit and no matter what the settings are it’s not the same .. maybe a connection?
Amazing video! I’ve been so stumped with my car’s audio issues. In total, how many different audio components should I replace/add to have good quality sound?
1 head unit
2 speakers
Thanks so much for this video. Yes I swapped out one standard phillips bmw speaker with a same size logic 7 speaker. The main difference in appearance is the size of the magnet but there is a big difference in sound! It feels like it would punch harder but it's so distorted at the same level as the stock one and that sounds acceptable.
Can I add an aftermarket radio with 4x45 Watts? Or should I just amp up the stock radio with one of those amps you mention in the video?
I have experienced most people think an amplifier. Are meant for subs only.
So what your saying is when replacing the speakers get an amp with that get a custom sound curve
DSP is always a valuable tool for improving performance when you have the control.
hi my car is chevrolet captiva i want to upgrade the speakers without the need for sub woofer. My doubt is that if I put 2 way speakers other than coaxial speaker and rear door to get low end, what will be the result?. Door damping has also been done. Please clarify me as soon as possible😊….
@thor7564
for 1 sekund siden
If you could add that massive magnet does not mean high quality speaker, and that paper speakers does not mean bad quality speaker, you should be all covered. Oh…and explain that impedance is not the same as measured resistance with a meter. Measured (dc-)resistance will always be lower than rated impedance.
Simply the best. Thanks bro.
You're welcome! Thanks for being a part of the community!
simply replace the head unit radio when you install high end speakers. find a head unit with a descent amp
How is replacing the head unit done on a 2015+ vehicle where no integration option exists and all vehicle functions are baked into the head unit? You reprogram and design everything from scratch? Can you explain that process since it's so "simple"?
So will getting an amp help with the distortion?
Audison Prima Series is the best way to upgrade oem speaker.
2:28 It’s all about saving weight, and secondarily, cost. A more efficient speaker runs at lower amplifier power, which weighs less. If a carmaker can save 3 grams on a part, they will redesign that part. Weight savings (called “lightweighting” in the car business) is driven by federally mandated CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) ratings.
Great explanation! Good points I hadn't thought of or didn't really understand. Thank you!
Hi, please I need you help, I have huge space problem with my front door speaker..I try to mount 3 different type of speaker(hertz and two type of coral prf and Evo) in my front door for replace the original one but all the speakers touch the glass, what kind of speaker can I use to have a good quality sound and a decent pressure?..no amplifier..straight to headunit..please help me..give me a suggest..thx a lot.Dario from south Italy.
What about jvc car speakers in a 16.5 cm and a depth of 43 mm with a 35hz to20,000HZ and a 92 DB for £20 I am from 🇬🇧 UK
The biggest lie, in my experience, is that car stereo guys know what stuff will sound good in your car. I believe very few can. I put $5000.00 CAD…(3000 usd) into my 2008 gmc replacing the factory Bose. It’s not better, just a bit louder.😢
This post hurt my heart. Sorry Wayne
@@WeeWeeJumbo thanks, it hurts but we all have to move on and accept.
Not sure if it's been metioned in the comments, but often times stock speakers are 2 ohm and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. If all wiring is left the same, it's likely that the aftermarket 4 ohm will receive less power than the stock speaker.
what? maybe in a Bose or other name branded system (Bose even uses 1.3-1.5 ohm speakers as well). my Mazda non-nav/Bose uses 4ohm speakers. my Subaru base non-nav uses 4 ohm speakers + 8ohm in the dash for the telematics unit. my friend's touareg (11-speaker) used a combination of 4/6/12 ohm speakers. Bose and possibly others use odd/non-standard impedances as part their proprietary gear. and those systems are built to be bespoke and not interchangeable. now, some high end name branded speakers/infotainment do use 4ohm speakers but probably because the speakers used come off of the shelf.
I didn't have a Bose system in my car and it had 2 ohm speakers
I have an aftermarket hu but stock Amp in my tundra jbl premium sound but both front speakers blown. Needing good 2ohm 6×9
ok so im here because my cars stock woofer busted a cone and i replaced the 2 back door speakers with he same sixe 6.5 inch speakers, but obviously because i know nothing about car stereo, I made the classic mistake (not enough power to drive them) and they sound shit compared to the front speakers, my question is what do i do now? the OEM speakers i took out say 4ohm and 35W max should i try and find speakers like that and just take the L on 200$ speakers, or try and install an amp? im not removing the stock stereo/head unit its intergrated into the car. but will an amp overdrive the 2 front oem speakers that are still there?
I want to add an amp to my Jaguar I-pace. But there are not so much info on these cars. I have the 400w system, but it does not sound as good.
have a car that had a pioneer DEH-150mp head unit (15watts rms). speakers started sounding like crap and rattling. put in 4 new rockford 168x2 (45watts rms) and 165x3 (55watts rms). never had a problem with the head unit or speakers in the past 6 years i’ve had the car. now after the installation the sound is very low and the makes the head unit cut out at prolonged max volume. i’m assuming because the little 15 watt rms head unit is giving it all it’s got while the speakers are only working at 30% of what they can actually do. got a kicker cxa360.4 amp (4 channel 65watt rms @ 4 ohms) on the way to fix this. wish me luck.
What do you recommend be added or upgraded on a 2023 chevrolet suburban with the Bose speakers? Should I change out all the speakers or just add one of those small amplifiers?
I was thinking just changing out the speakers to maybe Memphis or Hertz whats your thoughts or recommendations thanks.
@@PeteyPablo408 what did you end up doing? I have a Buick with the Bose set up and was wondering the same thing
@@landonbrown4223 So far i ended up leaving it stock for now. I still haven't found a good set up or the answers im seeking.
stock speaker have amazing bass, 6.5 inch, changed sony headunit 50wrs x4, swapped for a pair of focals (acx auditor 65) 60wrms, clarity is good, bass is almost non existant........ no matter what eq, loudness, dm+ settings...
1- it's not the polarity, it is correctly installed.
2- not the shape either, they're both 6.5 inch
with these out of the way, people tend to say: sound deaden the doors, put a bracket, put a ring... do this do that... i mean why should i do all of these JUST to get it to sound as good as factory. i thought the sound would be better, if i knew that, i wouldn't bother with all of that (money, time and all the hassle researching infos on the understand what speaker is good, the instalation...) wtf really, they are focals they are suposed to sound "amazing".
i mean, why should i do all of those if a "shabby" speakers set can produce powerful bass that you could feel in the chest, why can't those just be like that ? the power is sufficient, everything is well set, so tell me why, i might be ignoring something.
6.5s? U need to feel my system.
BRAX MATRIX 4 CHANNEL
DC AUDIO 20K PITBULL MONO
6 DC AUDIO 18s
Have you or anyone out there done a speaker swap on a 2021-2023 mazda 3 premium plus with the bose amp and speakers ? i would like to swap without adding aftermarket amplifier
After buying 2 12s running at 600rms, I need to buy some new component speakers. What rms would you recommend for a set of component speakers for a more balanced sound?
Well this sucks i got a setp of replacements for door and rear deck from amazon cus the car i got are blown so i can’t expect any bass at all unless also replace the stock radio and and add an amp anyway? Should have went with some premium jbls then 😕
This video is very helpful 😊😊😊😊😊
So I’m looking to replace the old speakers that I have in my K1500, but I like my music loud and crisp. I know after a certain point speaker start to crackle and sound funky and I’d like to avoid that if I can. Does anyone have any advice on setups or anything? (Current system is just an aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers from awhile ago)
Mark I just got a set of those C3 650's, How do they sound? What would you compare them too?
question : im a complete beginner in a small nissan micra.... i would like to upgrade the sound that im listening (via bluetooth fm, phone to speakers of car) ... all im looking for is three times the sound depth that my current speakers give out. would upgrading speakers be enough or do i have to do something else ? thanks in advance.