Hi Hilton Can you also please let me know what the symptoms are of a worn coupler shock absorber? Is the function only to absorb a sudden forward pull or is it meant for absorption of a stop as well? I'm aware that the brakes adjusted properly is responsible for the latter function. I still experience the banging stop but this time Ill be doing the adjustment with wheels completely raised as you've advised.
Hi Burquip , I have the other type of Burquip axle in my Afrispoor overland trailer here in the UK , I have recently renewed the bearings and checked the brake shoes, they look fine , But I cannot get the adjuster to adjust enough to stop the drum, the best is some very slight drag but nothing more, I've emailed Burquip a few times but not received a response .I'm really struggling to get any parts in the UK and am getting desperate ,
Thank you for explaining. But now I am confused. Their seems to be varying opinions on how to adjust the brakes at the hubs. Some are saying their should be *some* drag, you're saying their should not be. I was originally taught that when you spin the wheel by hand with moderate strength, it should rotate 1.5 turns before drag brings it to a stop. However having them set so their is no friction (as per your suggestion) results in brakes not coming on strong enough (can still feel trailer pushing the tow vehicle) and using the manual override (electric brakes) does nothing so seems they're not tight enough? I've also had brakes overheat in the past and a wheel shear off. Any tips/rules of thumb on how to find that "sweet spot" where I am not going to risk overheating the brake drums but also have effective braking? Many thanks, Sam :)
Hello Sam. It is important to use the correct coupler with the overrun brakes. At Burquip we supply overrun brakes and couplers that are manufactured by Knott in Europe. These couplers have the correct lever ratio to ensure that the brakes will work when properly adjusted as demonstrated. If you think about it a dragging brake is not desirable. It only causes heat and very soon the brake lining will wear to the point that it is no longer touching the brake drums when the brake cables are not pulled. We have found that when the brakes are adjusted according to the process that I detailed in the video that the brakes engage fully when the coupler is pressed in to about half of its travel. The Knott couplers we supply have a free travel of 90mm. When the brakes are set up properly the coupler head will move about 40mm tom fully engage the brakes. The brake shoes press very hard against the drums so the head cannot go in any further. As the brakes wear then this travel will increase until you get to a point where the coupler head travels the full 90mm and the you will feel the banging when the head hits the coupler body. That is a signal that tells you the brakes are not working and need to be adjusted. After a while the linings will wear to a point where no amount of adjustment will make the brakes work. That means you need to replace the brakes.
@@hiltonmillward4550 thank you for explaining. Totally agree that logic says they should not be dragging much at all for the reason you stated. Mine were just not working when set like that. However... One thing I forgot to mention was my brakes were brand new and I didn't even think that they'd need to be broken in *palms forehead*. So perhaps that's why they needed to be a bit tighter at first? Also mine are electric so I have a different coupling set-up. Anyways, took my caravan for a holiday and everything worked beautifully using my slightly tighter set-up. Regularly stopped to feel hubs for overheating and all was good. So I'm guessing maybe once they're bedded in, you will need to go over them again and readjust as per your instruction? I'll get out and have play with them on the weekend! Cheers again
@@1samwhich Hello again Sam. Yes the electric brakes are different in that they have an electromagnet that rubs against the inside surface of the drum. They use the rotation of the drum and a current in the electromagnet to actuate the brakes. We are in South Africa and electric brakes systems are nit approved for use here.
Who in Port Elizabeth can do this , convinced the company who build my trailer never ever adjusted the brakes. Trailer always banging against the car when braking
![เปิดบ้านสุดหรู "เเจ็ค the ghost" ลั่นถ้าป๋องกพลลำบากผมเลี้ยงเอง!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1xbW4vULqGc/mqdefault.jpg)
Top video.
Clear & precise.
Sorted my brakes out just nicely using this, instead of having to take it to the shop like I have done in the past.
Great video 👍🏻
Hi Hilton
Can you also please let me know what the symptoms are of a worn coupler shock absorber? Is the function only to absorb a sudden forward pull or is it meant for absorption of a stop as well? I'm aware that the brakes adjusted properly is responsible for the latter function.
I still experience the banging stop but this time Ill be doing the adjustment with wheels completely raised as you've advised.
Hi Burquip , I have the other type of Burquip axle in my Afrispoor overland trailer here in the UK , I have recently renewed the bearings and checked the brake shoes, they look fine , But I cannot get the adjuster to adjust enough to stop the drum, the best is some very slight drag but nothing more, I've emailed Burquip a few times but not received a response .I'm really struggling to get any parts in the UK and am getting desperate ,
Sorry I don't monitor these comments often enough. Have you solved your problem nor do you still need assistance?
Thank you for explaining. But now I am confused. Their seems to be varying opinions on how to adjust the brakes at the hubs. Some are saying their should be *some* drag, you're saying their should not be. I was originally taught that when you spin the wheel by hand with moderate strength, it should rotate 1.5 turns before drag brings it to a stop. However having them set so their is no friction (as per your suggestion) results in brakes not coming on strong enough (can still feel trailer pushing the tow vehicle) and using the manual override (electric brakes) does nothing so seems they're not tight enough? I've also had brakes overheat in the past and a wheel shear off. Any tips/rules of thumb on how to find that "sweet spot" where I am not going to risk overheating the brake drums but also have effective braking? Many thanks, Sam :)
Hello Sam. It is important to use the correct coupler with the overrun brakes. At Burquip we supply overrun brakes and couplers that are manufactured by Knott in Europe. These couplers have the correct lever ratio to ensure that the brakes will work when properly adjusted as demonstrated. If you think about it a dragging brake is not desirable. It only causes heat and very soon the brake lining will wear to the point that it is no longer touching the brake drums when the brake cables are not pulled. We have found that when the brakes are adjusted according to the process that I detailed in the video that the brakes engage fully when the coupler is pressed in to about half of its travel. The Knott couplers we supply have a free travel of 90mm. When the brakes are set up properly the coupler head will move about 40mm tom fully engage the brakes. The brake shoes press very hard against the drums so the head cannot go in any further. As the brakes wear then this travel will increase until you get to a point where the coupler head travels the full 90mm and the you will feel the banging when the head hits the coupler body. That is a signal that tells you the brakes are not working and need to be adjusted. After a while the linings will wear to a point where no amount of adjustment will make the brakes work. That means you need to replace the brakes.
@@hiltonmillward4550 thank you for explaining. Totally agree that logic says they should not be dragging much at all for the reason you stated. Mine were just not working when set like that. However... One thing I forgot to mention was my brakes were brand new and I didn't even think that they'd need to be broken in *palms forehead*. So perhaps that's why they needed to be a bit tighter at first? Also mine are electric so I have a different coupling set-up. Anyways, took my caravan for a holiday and everything worked beautifully using my slightly tighter set-up. Regularly stopped to feel hubs for overheating and all was good. So I'm guessing maybe once they're bedded in, you will need to go over them again and readjust as per your instruction? I'll get out and have play with them on the weekend! Cheers again
@@1samwhich Hello again Sam. Yes the electric brakes are different in that they have an electromagnet that rubs against the inside surface of the drum. They use the rotation of the drum and a current in the electromagnet to actuate the brakes. We are in South Africa and electric brakes systems are nit approved for use here.
Who in Port Elizabeth can do this , convinced the company who build my trailer never ever adjusted the brakes. Trailer always banging against the car when braking
Springwell in PE should be able to assist you.
Try Transport Components in North End PE.