The BEST and most detailed video I've found. Most thing's I've seen only talk about the brake assembly and don't show how the magnet contact impacts the hub. And most just talk about swapping the brake assembly and using the existing hub without discussing the impacts. A while ago I was told I needed to increase my gain......and now I know why by magnets has worn out, my drum has grooves, but the brake pads still have plenty of life. Thanks!!!
I have a vintage ('83) Avion trailer -- previous owner disconnected the entire brake wiring (but don't know for how long) so I'm going to have to hook up the wiring (he altered the trailer cable so no wiring to the brakes) before the brakes will work. at this time, not sure they'll work since they've been "offline" for who knows how long but until this video I had no idea how these things worked. EXCELLENT training video and your manner of explaining is PERFECT. detailed, useful, no fluff -- you should CHARGE for this video! (you'd make a fortune ...) But THANK YOU for enlightening me about this subject. if I am able to get the brakes hooked up on this old trailer, I will have you to thank!
The info you have in your head is unreal trailer smith 😆👍🏼! I’m using all the info ! I’m redoing my trailer brakes and bearings on my car hauler trailer I got and you’re awsome ! Thanks a ton !
Thanks for helping me understand how they work. I just got a brand new car, and dealer fitted wiring harness. On my first trip it didn’t drive very well, then when I got myself to the campsite, the drums and rims were boiling hot on the caravan. My old car never had a problem. I’m not sure yet if there is a wiring issue from the dealer, and I can’t find a simple video to confirm correct wiring, or weather there is a magnet issue, but now I have some diagnostic tools. Thanks again.
I am the fleet mechanic for an electrical, plumbing, and HVAC company in North Alabama. I do all repairs and maintenance on any and everything here, whether it's a transmission in a Chevy Express 3500 box truck, hydraulic pumps in our skid steers, excavators, etc, or a light bulb in my boss/business owner's wife's car, lol. I'm currently stuck in a situation that I brought upon myself🤦.We have a 16k dual axle trailer we use for hauling excavators, skid steers, etc. This trailer was an absolute clapped out death trap when I first came to work here 3 yrs ago, broken welds, receiver bolts worn halfway through, on and on. I've managed to keep it rolling without a death toll so far. 2 weeks ago it had a tire blowout while hauling an excavator. The guy driving did me a favor and drove it back to my shop for me 😂. As the tire continued to fly apart, it only ripped all the wiring off or apart for the passenger side trailer brakes, marker lights, stop/turn/running light. The trailer brakes have not worked the entire time I've been here. I was told that the trailer brakes haven't worked since 2005-2006. I have no idea, I've tried getting the go ahead to investigate and fix them before now, I was told not to waste time or money on it. After the tire completed the unscheduled high speed rapid disassembly of the wiring and lighting, I had a reason to finally give this jalopy the overhaul it needed 10 yrs ago. I talked the bossman into letting me give her all new brakes, bearings, wiring, whatever I think it needs its getting. My goal is to no longer have to do bimonthly brake jobs on the 2015 Duramax 3500HD tow rig. Here's where I'm currently stuck. I was an electrician for some years, I'm known as the wiring guru among my circle of friends, family, and mechanic buddies. I have completely stripped, redesigned, and rewired every single thing on this trailer. Complete with all 4 full Dexter 12×2 replacement assemblies, water/weather tight J boxes, every single connection is soldered, shrinked, and sheathed, every inch of wire sheathed and strapped inside frame railing every 6 inches from tongue to ass. It has been absolutely overkilled to the max 😂. When applying 12V and ground at the tongue to my 2 brake wires, every magnet energizes. Wired the new 8ft 7 pin plug, connect to truck "service trailer brakes". I have spent the last 3 hrs researching and digging looking for something I've done wrong, or whatever the solution may be. All lights, turn signals, everything functions as it should, but no trailer brakes. I realize this is an extremely long legged comment, for which I apologize to anyone that makes it this far, but it is also serving to vent my frustration😂. If anyone has the time to reply, please do!! I greatly appreciate it!!!!
So. It sounds like you’ve done everything correctly. I’m sure you have a good chassis ground, but if not that would be the main culprit. I would say there’s a highly likely chance that the issue is in the tow vehicle if you do have a good ground. GM is experiencing a trailer disconnect issue starting with 2014 & up, affecting all three chassis. I have a 2014 personally, that I am currently experiencing the exact same issue. I’ve changed the truck plug and have disconnected the new truck plug and still have the issue with no trailer attached. GM won’t admit to this problem and has not helped to resolve the problem. I’ve had the computer flashed. It worked for a while, but it’s back again. Currently have around 6 customers with the same issue. They haven’t been able to resolve theirs through their dealers, either. I have not had time to trace all the wiring on my vehicle yet. Hoping to do that soon. I would recommend towing a different trailer on that truck to see if you have the same issue. Or try towing the refurbished trailer with a different truck to see if it creates the same issue. I completely understand the frustration! Been turning wrenches for 30 years….fixing to take a hammer to it. If I find something out, I’ll try to let you know. You do the same & keep me posted on your progress.
@@TheTrailerSmith Thank you very much for your reply, and for the information!! We have one other trailer with electric brakes, a 16ft Airtow. It's fully functional with no issues. Upon researching the issue I'm having with this trailer, I did see where there has been that issue with the Chevrolet trailer issue. So just to rule out the possibility that this issue has popped up within the past few days, I hooked that trailer earlier today and there are no issues. The problem is definitely within this trailer. A coworker here recommended I ground the trailer brakes through the 7 pin connector instead of to the trailer. Another told me that they not going to work because I don't have a battery on the trailer 😂. It needs a breakaway, but it won't be today.
The breakaway battery system will have nothing to do with the normal operation of the trailer brakes. It’s only a safety device. The trailer definitely has to be grounded through the trailer plug.
Check the wiring from the trailer plug to the wire. I have found a couple different pre-made trailer plugs that had incorrect wiring out (wrong colour codes). Check for continuity from the plug end to the end of the wire you believe to be the brake wire. I am sure you have already done this but this was one issue I had with one trailer plug that was purchased online
You said the magnet applies the brakes. I thought it grabs the hub and the hub pulls on the magnet and the magnet is on the arm and that applies the brakes as the drum turns. Excellent video. I’m subscribed
Thanks for your videos! I've been learning the ins and outs of rv trailer brakes with your help. If you think that drum is bad from heavy magnet use and poorly adjusted shoes, you should see my record player grooved drums I've discovered. They look like the rings of Saturn!
Great video, and very informative! Thank you! Im about to start some work on a Parker car trailer. The wiring needs to be replaced, and I will check the brakes while Im doing it. Also repack the bearings etc. I also watched your burnishing video, never knew that. Thank you!
I have a open race car trailer. Put new backing plates with brake assemblies and new drums last spring. Hauled it less than 1000 miles last spring/summer/ and fall. Parked it in October and didnt use it until December 23rd. No snow. Took it to drop a car off and on the way back empty a wheel would lock up when braking. Turned the controller way down figuring it was up too high for the empty trailer. Parked it again until February 21. Loaded with another car going to the same place drop off and pick up the other car. About an hour and a half drive with stops along the way. No issues on the way up. On the way home about 20 minutes into the drive we went to stop and the right rear tire ( tandem axle) locked up when I applied brakes. This puzzled me. So i turned the controller down again. No issues the rest of the way home. Parked it and jacked it up with no issues found. Sat again until march 29. Made the trip again but when we turned a cormer the wheel was squeaking. Got to our destination and the hin was hot. Jacked it up there. The hub was a little loose but not bad. Pumped grease into the bearing buddy and loaded the car and headed home. The wheel again started grabbing when brakes applied so i turned the controller down to 1.5-2.0 same as before. Got home and the wheel was hot enough to sizzle the grease out. The next day I took the hub off and found the inner bearing stuck to the spindle. Cut it off cleaned up the spindle. Installed new bearing and race packed well. Readjusted all the brakes. Everything felt great. Loaded the car to go to practice 30 miles away. Everything felt like it did last year. Controller was at 4.5-5.0. At about 25 miles it started to grab again. Got to the track and parked in the pits and the grease was bubbling again. Before heading home i xhecked the hub again. Not loose or brake drag. So just to try something I baked the brakes off on that wheel a xouple more clicks. Loaded xar and headed home. 5 miles in going through town it gets grabby again. Drove the rest of the way home not using much brakes. When I got home the hub was extremely hot. Loke got enough you could feel the heat with in a about 2 inches of it. Took it all apart again. Bearings are good. Brakes look good. Magnet looks good from what i can see. Reassembled and reajusted brakes. Took trailer 11 moles empty and the brake grab when applied on that wheel with 2.0 on the controller. Same wheel right rear through all of this. Any suggestions on what it could be?
AWESOME VIDEO - that I may need to watch another time or two. Front axel brakes are working; back axel are not. Front brakes are 13 mths old; rear 19 mths; when checking bearing and greasing, front look like brakes have been used - back look brand new = never engaged. Heading out to see if I can track the issue after adjustING the brakes;) Just wanted to pass along a BIG THANKS!
Great video. If my brakes lock up all four when I pull my brake away cable out, but I can’t get them to grab during normal driving, where would you suggest I start? This would suggest that my brakes actually do work, just not getting good voltage from the truck wiring?
How much difference do left & right make - I was having trouble with brakes locking up at low speeds. Figured out my brakes were on the wrong side . Switched now & and the test drive went well. I'm hoping I solved the problem Thanks for producing your videos - clear, concise information that is easy to understand
2 Questions: 1. How much braking power should there be to a trailer wheel when it's jacked up off the ground? 2. How do you know if your magnet has worn out the shoe and made a groove like you demonstrated around 18:50? I bought a used trailer from a private party recently. I jacked up the tires, had someone spin the tire, and then I applied the truck brakes and compared them to the manual brake controller. The truck brakes only slightly slowed down the wheels. The manual brakes stopped it completely. It's clearly due for a brake adjustment which I will now do thanks to your videos. I will also get the lisle voltage tester and see what that reads. But after I do that, how much braking power should be on the tires? And how do I know when to go in and replace the magnet/shoe?
When I hit my brakes all the trailer lights light up. I have a 22 f350 and have a constant issue with trailer brakes disconnecting. Truck constantly says trailer disconnected or faulty wiring. Trailer is fairly new.
@@jt7559 I feel ya. Mine is new too and that dang intermittent disconnect makes no sense. But I don’t see it anything wrong on the truck side at all. Let me know what you find out. I’m putting mine up on jacks next weekend to start the process.
@BCrane I worked on it some today. Still no luck. Tomorrow I'm digging deeper. I did find one out of the 4 wheels would not engage brake when I did a test pull with the break away cord. So I have the hub pulled off now
We have a brake that likes to lock up, if we adjust the brakes to work is it always locks up in one position. I marked the hub with paint with the flat spot on the tire. After switching tires it flat spots the new tires in the same position in relationship to the mark.
Would like to see a vid on diagnosing the wiring from the plug to the brakes. My wiring is old and I've replaced the assemblies but can't get them to energize.
What exactly are you wanting to check? Just the wires? You can check continuity step by step tracing the wires, a remote continuity tester can be had for pretty cheap and is a well worth it. If the ground is run to the body you can check that, but also the ground at the front for the plug. I'm no professional by any means, but if you have any trouble I'll help how I can
whats the typical amp draw on a brake magnet? how can one test the output of a brake signal from the tow vehicle at the connector and how to activate the brakes for the trailer at the trailer connector.
I'm told that the blue wire powering the electric brakes on trailer is only 'hot' at the 7-pin on truck if the truck is moving because of proportional braking on modern trucks. If so, how do I check this connection? My tbc works if squeezed and the break away emergency works, just not with truck brake pedal while running down the road. Ideas for me to check? I have new drums and magnets, checked fuses, and checked for rusty wires at junction box where wires from harness enter the trailer. Thanks for you videos, well presented.
Appreciate the video. I bought a pop-up camper yesterday and the brakes have never worked. I want to replace them, but I have no idea which ones to get. Seems like a lot of trailers use 10" but I'm not sure
a video explaining a way to ensure that no current is going through the wheel bearings would be very helpful. My fathers trailer brake coil shorted through the wheel bearings and the current killed the bearings.
It just depends on what you’re using them for. Disc brakes will always have better stopping power, but they are a more expensive option and replacement parts are more expensive.
Great video. I am diagnosing very weak brakes on my 7k axles. I have not been diligent with adjusting brakes, so I think I have bad magnets as the one I tested, there was a pull there, but it was not strong. I have since adjusted the brakes, but very little braking force was gained. I'm going to watch your adjusting video just to make sure I am doing it right. But, if I have a weak magnetic force, would you lean towards wiring or a bad magnet? Thanks!
What's an alternative reasonably priced e brakes magnet to dexter? I have a 10k tandem trailer and requires 4 magnets and dexter is too expensive for a farmer. Your assistance is appreciated.
Hi! I agree I put some links in the description of this video. One of those links is for magnets, I believe its for 7k, but you can search from there for the same brand in 10K, I believe. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a very informative video. I have just bought a trailer with electric brakes and as a "old dude" I am learning all about them. Can the back of the drum be machined where the magnets run? Should they be skimmed to true them up if new magnets are fitted as a routine matter? What sort of thickness limits would apply? Thanks again for your video.
Very nice video , question my break controller says its conected but the numbers 0.00 it’s blinking and when i hit the brake pedal it goes solid 0.00 numbers not changing. Trailer Not breaking, any ideas what it would be? Thanks
I’ve never seen left or right magnets. Only left or right brake assemblies. There shouldn’t be a difference in the magnets. Great question. Thanks for watching.
I have a big tex 25gn gooseneck with weak brakes and found I was getting weak voltage to the brakes (around 6 volts) but when I disconnect the wire from the brakes instantly just up to 11.4 volts
I just replaced the axle bearings on a Dexter 4400lb axle. The brakes worked fine prior but now they seem a little weak. While the wheels were off the ground I spun the tires and had my wife hit the brakes and they worked after a couple second delay. I didn’t touch the brakes other than spray them with brake cleaner and on the passenger side I may have put the front axle drum on the rear axle. Don’t know if that would matter.
Great video! When I pull the drum off (3500k) axle, the drum is hard to pull off, almost like it is locked down or magnetized. Trailer is not connected to the truck. Would this be a worn drum/magnet or bad magnet? Other axles doesn't do that.
Being the brake wiring is daisy chained, is it normal to see a small voltage drop as you measure downstream? e.g. Maybe 12.5 volts at the first magnet, 12V at the next, 11.5, and finally 11V at the last.
I have been watching your videos and learned alot! I have a medium size utility trailer that had a tire lock up, so I disconnected the break controler. That tire still locked up while moving forward, but rolled fine in reverse. If I jack that tire up, I can spin it in either direction without any issues. What could be causeing this issue? Thanks in advance for your help!!!
I have one brake magnet that does not work am I correct that if I test by putting one wire to a positive terminal on a charged battery and the other wire to the negative terminal on the battery I should see the magnet become energized and then have magnetic draw?
Thanks so much for this great information. I am curious, are you able to "face" the inside of the drums if they are not marred too much? Just trying to save a few bucks if this is possible.
What would cause my brakes to grab hard sometimes at slower speeds. At highway speed I have to adjust to a higher input but when slowing down or driving slower they grab too hard. My trailer is practically new so not sure
One of the brakes locked up and was smoking like mad on a vintage trailer I bought about 10 minutes out of the town I bought it in. I could hardly tell it stuck on, just thought "hmmm I swear it was getting better fuel economy a few minutes ago!" I pulled it all apart on the side of the highway and just dumped all the parts in a pale and drove the rest of the way home. Not sure why they stuck on, since I don't have a brake controller nor was there a battery on the trailer. I was sitting there wondering how the hell brakes can work with nothing but 2 wires going to them. Now I know what that weird shredded thing was (The magnet). Thanks for the info!
I have a 2023 continental 7k 8,5 x 20 purchased used the trailer brakes are not working the controler will flash a number when turning ignition key I have checked with 2 trucks so its the trailer the batery is 12,35v if i ground the blue wire in battery box controller shows a number I ran another ground near batt box just to check nothing any suggestions would be appreciated thanks
If I may add, check your wiring thoroughly and especially the part that goes THRU the axle tube. While you may think this is a protected area for the wire, it is not. I have solved many brake issues on all types of trailers by replacing the wire running thru the axle tube. The wire literally has the insulation rubbed off and you either end up blowing fuses or have brake that will not work.
I just installed new 5k axles on my travel trailer. These new brakes don't t make any humming noise like my old ones did, but they do stop the wheels when spinning while jacked up off the ground. ( I haven't pulled it with my truck yet) Do Brand new trailer brakes make a humming noise? or not necessarily?
I’m having an issue with the trailer break away, it’s a duel axle trailer and all of them work except the right rear. Now recently the bearings went on it and I had to replace the drum do to the seal getting shredded from the bearings. I’m getting positive volts on both connectors going to the magnet, just not sure if it’s at that hub or the connectors on the left rear?
Question: I have a tandem axle travel trailer. I check my brakes with a digital temp gauge. The passenger side front wheel ways reads 30 to 50 degrees warmer. Is this normal or an indication of a pending problem?
I have a travel trailer where the electric brakes work very well. My car hauler on the other hand has electric brakes which barely work. It’s a 7k trailer with brakes only on the rear axle. They’ve never worked well and I’ve tried adjusting the shoes to no avail. Do you think there’s something wrong or should it have had brakes on both axles? Also on both cars and motorcycles the rear brakes do 80% of the braking. Why would they only install the brakes on the rear?
I think that you've got the percentage of braking between the front and rear brakes. The vast majority of braking is done by the front brakes, not the rear brakes. It's the best reason why cars started using disc brakes on the front wheels, while still using drum brakes on the rear.
What would cause a brake to lock up after stopping and then going but not lockup if stopped bit not go forward or back wards so if you take your foot off the brake but don't move it doesn't lock up? Thanks
Great video, thanks. I have a new tandem axle caravan and it has a hot wheel /hubs issue. The tyres are wearing evenly, the bearings are ok and the hubs/ brakes/ magnets were replaced under warranty but I still have very hot hubs/ wheels after travelling 20km. Too hot to hold my hand on the hubs. It is not always the same wheel/ wheels that are hot. The last test I did with the ESC disconnected, one wheel was hot and three were very hot. Do you have any thoughts what could be causing the over heating? Thanks
It sounds like it could be a couple of possibilities 1. Most likely-excessive brake drag (over adjusted) 2. It could have a short in the wiring, allowing voltage to be back fed into the brake wiring. Good luck & hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Question: What would cause the brake magnet to be engerized with the trailer unhooked from the truck and plugged into 110v? After I disconnected the power and battery the magnet de-engerized.
@@TheTrailerSmith Sir, you are a genious! That was the problem. The switch was hidden under the LPG tanks and the 'plug' was gone! Take a pat on the back out of petty cash! :-)
What if the brakes have 12 volts to the brake assembly and are adjusted correctly and are working . But but are bearly stopping the trailer. The magnets are working my wrench stuck to them. Would you recommend replacing the magnets? Or the whole brake and drum? 8 lug 12x2 brakes 7k axels
What is the condition of the drum and the brake shoe surface? Are they glazed over? If they are glazed, the brakes will not stop the trailer and they will need to be replaced. If you have pics of the drums and shoes and want me to take a look at them, I don’t mind doing that. You can email them to adventuresmithco@gmail.com
What is the condition of the drum and the brake shoe surface? Are they glazed over? If they are glazed, the brakes will not stop the trailer and they will need to be replaced. If you have pics of the drums and shoes and want me to take a look at them, I don’t mind doing that. You can email them to adventuresmithco@gmail.com.
Had one hub get hot on trip . Gain was at 4 . Took gain totally off . Hub temp was normal. Set gain at 2 . Hub got hot again . Brake was not adjusted out enough. Adjusted . Magnet read 2.0 on ohm meter on 10” brake . Not within specs. Getting new magnet . Hope new magnet works .
Not normally. Most of the time it’s too far gone and it’s getting pretty tough to find someone with the equipment to do it. If you do happen to have someone that can do it, just really take a look at it to make sure it’s not too far along. Great question! Thanks for watching!
I just replaced the brake assembly on one side on one axle and now the truck isn't recognizing the trailer is connected and i have no electric brakes on the trailer. Any idea what i may have done wrong? I disconnected the battery while working on it and reconnected the wires as they were previously.
I have checked the continuity of my brake wires. From the front plug to the brake magnet. Everything checks out until I get to the magnet the both wires check continuity for both live wires in stead of separate for each wire. Please reply
Help Dexter 3500lb. I have brakes on all 4 wheels. Front right hub gets hot and wheel will lock up when braking. Notice flat spot on the tire. Self adjusting brakes. When brakes not engaged wheel spins with minimal drag. Any ideas
We have a travel Trailer that when braking it feels like it almost locking up, its definitely braking more then the truck. where should we start looking? tyia
I have a fifth wheel two axle RV. I just replaced the four backing plates and adjusted the brake shoes to a slight drag on the drum. My tow vehicle is a 2011 ram Cummings diesel with the trailer controller inside on the lower dash. I can adjust my trailer brakes in increments of .5, 1 to 1.5 to 2 to 2.5 all the way up to 10. I can also slide it right to 10 manually. Here’s my dilemma no matter what I set my trailer brakes to they don’t engage but I can manually slide it to 10 and all the wheels lock up nicely so I’m getting electricity to the magnets but I don’t know why when I step on my brakes in my toll vehicle I got nothing.
I’m currently having issues with my trailer. Trailer brakes work fine when the trailer is not physically touching the ball on the truck. Once the trailer is connected to the hitch on the truck then I lose brakes. Any thoughts?
Do electric trailer brakes work backing down a hill? Will they hold uphill? Will they work submerged in water? Can a 7 pin trailer plug work if submerged? Like in a offroad water crossings?
Another great video to explain brake assembly workings.
As always, thanks for watching and the feedback!
This is the type of good useful content that we need
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. You could not explain it better. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Thank you for helping me understand what the magnet is used for.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
The BEST and most detailed video I've found. Most thing's I've seen only talk about the brake assembly and don't show how the magnet contact impacts the hub. And most just talk about swapping the brake assembly and using the existing hub without discussing the impacts. A while ago I was told I needed to increase my gain......and now I know why by magnets has worn out, my drum has grooves, but the brake pads still have plenty of life. Thanks!!!
Thx for this series on trailer breaks. I am going to tackle new springs, shackles, equalizer and if necessary change breaks and new bearings. B
Sounds like a great plan! Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Fantastic, This video was an excellent explanation on how trailer brakes should work, the problems you can have and solutions.
Thank you for watching! The feedback is much appreciated!
I have a vintage ('83) Avion trailer -- previous owner disconnected the entire brake wiring (but don't know for how long) so I'm going to have to hook up the wiring (he altered the trailer cable so no wiring to the brakes) before the brakes will work. at this time, not sure they'll work since they've been "offline" for who knows how long but until this video I had no idea how these things worked.
EXCELLENT training video and your manner of explaining is PERFECT. detailed, useful, no fluff -- you should CHARGE for this video! (you'd make a fortune ...) But THANK YOU for enlightening me about this subject.
if I am able to get the brakes hooked up on this old trailer, I will have you to thank!
Another fully comprehensive guide as to how to complete your job
Thanks for watching!
The info you have in your head is unreal trailer smith 😆👍🏼! I’m using all the info ! I’m redoing my trailer brakes and bearings on my car hauler trailer I got and you’re awsome ! Thanks a ton !
Great tutorial 👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦 can never stop learning
This training is like gold!! Thank you guys.
Thanks for helping me understand how they work. I just got a brand new car, and dealer fitted wiring harness. On my first trip it didn’t drive very well, then when I got myself to the campsite, the drums and rims were boiling hot on the caravan. My old car never had a problem. I’m not sure yet if there is a wiring issue from the dealer, and I can’t find a simple video to confirm correct wiring, or weather there is a magnet issue, but now I have some diagnostic tools. Thanks again.
Hope this video has helped you out! Best of luck and thanks for watching!
Love this channel. Great job in explaining things as well as the pitfalls one might occur and fixes for them. Thank you.
Great video very informational. Now I know what to look for in my trailer breaking system.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Amazing! To the point and Extremely educational. Thanks for what you do!!!
We really appreciate that feedback! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Excellent video ! No nonsense and well explained
Sure appreciate that feedback! Thanks for watching!
very knowledgeable and hands down best video explaining properly the right way of brakes.
Absolutely amazing video!! I feel i know everything about everything now. Thank you for the time you put into this.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
Excellent demo
I am the fleet mechanic for an electrical, plumbing, and HVAC company in North Alabama. I do all repairs and maintenance on any and everything here, whether it's a transmission in a Chevy Express 3500 box truck, hydraulic pumps in our skid steers, excavators, etc, or a light bulb in my boss/business owner's wife's car, lol. I'm currently stuck in a situation that I brought upon myself🤦.We have a 16k dual axle trailer we use for hauling excavators, skid steers, etc. This trailer was an absolute clapped out death trap when I first came to work here 3 yrs ago, broken welds, receiver bolts worn halfway through, on and on. I've managed to keep it rolling without a death toll so far. 2 weeks ago it had a tire blowout while hauling an excavator. The guy driving did me a favor and drove it back to my shop for me 😂. As the tire continued to fly apart, it only ripped all the wiring off or apart for the passenger side trailer brakes, marker lights, stop/turn/running light. The trailer brakes have not worked the entire time I've been here. I was told that the trailer brakes haven't worked since 2005-2006. I have no idea, I've tried getting the go ahead to investigate and fix them before now, I was told not to waste time or money on it. After the tire completed the unscheduled high speed rapid disassembly of the wiring and lighting, I had a reason to finally give this jalopy the overhaul it needed 10 yrs ago. I talked the bossman into letting me give her all new brakes, bearings, wiring, whatever I think it needs its getting. My goal is to no longer have to do bimonthly brake jobs on the 2015 Duramax 3500HD tow rig. Here's where I'm currently stuck. I was an electrician for some years, I'm known as the wiring guru among my circle of friends, family, and mechanic buddies. I have completely stripped, redesigned, and rewired every single thing on this trailer. Complete with all 4 full Dexter 12×2 replacement assemblies, water/weather tight J boxes, every single connection is soldered, shrinked, and sheathed, every inch of wire sheathed and strapped inside frame railing every 6 inches from tongue to ass. It has been absolutely overkilled to the max 😂. When applying 12V and ground at the tongue to my 2 brake wires, every magnet energizes. Wired the new 8ft 7 pin plug, connect to truck "service trailer brakes". I have spent the last 3 hrs researching and digging looking for something I've done wrong, or whatever the solution may be. All lights, turn signals, everything functions as it should, but no trailer brakes. I realize this is an extremely long legged comment, for which I apologize to anyone that makes it this far, but it is also serving to vent my frustration😂. If anyone has the time to reply, please do!! I greatly appreciate it!!!!
So. It sounds like you’ve done everything correctly. I’m sure you have a good chassis ground, but if not that would be the main culprit. I would say there’s a highly likely chance that the issue is in the tow vehicle if you do have a good ground. GM is experiencing a trailer disconnect issue starting with 2014 & up, affecting all three chassis. I have a 2014 personally, that I am currently experiencing the exact same issue. I’ve changed the truck plug and have disconnected the new truck plug and still have the issue with no trailer attached. GM won’t admit to this problem and has not helped to resolve the problem. I’ve had the computer flashed. It worked for a while, but it’s back again. Currently have around 6 customers with the same issue. They haven’t been able to resolve theirs through their dealers, either. I have not had time to trace all the wiring on my vehicle yet. Hoping to do that soon. I would recommend towing a different trailer on that truck to see if you have the same issue. Or try towing the refurbished trailer with a different truck to see if it creates the same issue. I completely understand the frustration! Been turning wrenches for 30 years….fixing to take a hammer to it. If I find something out, I’ll try to let you know. You do the same & keep me posted on your progress.
@@TheTrailerSmith Thank you very much for your reply, and for the information!! We have one other trailer with electric brakes, a 16ft Airtow. It's fully functional with no issues. Upon researching the issue I'm having with this trailer, I did see where there has been that issue with the Chevrolet trailer issue. So just to rule out the possibility that this issue has popped up within the past few days, I hooked that trailer earlier today and there are no issues. The problem is definitely within this trailer. A coworker here recommended I ground the trailer brakes through the 7 pin connector instead of to the trailer. Another told me that they not going to work because I don't have a battery on the trailer 😂. It needs a breakaway, but it won't be today.
The breakaway battery system will have nothing to do with the normal operation of the trailer brakes. It’s only a safety device. The trailer definitely has to be grounded through the trailer plug.
Check the wiring from the trailer plug to the wire. I have found a couple different pre-made trailer plugs that had incorrect wiring out (wrong colour codes).
Check for continuity from the plug end to the end of the wire you believe to be the brake wire. I am sure you have already done this but this was one issue I had with one trailer plug that was purchased online
Having same issue. All my other trailers, no issues. My 16’ utility trailer gives constant dash messages and chimes.
Hey mate, thanks a bunch for this great detailed vid. lots of good info to take away. Keep up your excellent work yeah! Cheers!!
Thanks for watching and the great feedback. Much appreciated!
Thank for your inf. You are a good teacher,you talk Clare ,you use didactic material
I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching!
These are some of the best videos on youtube!
You said the magnet applies the brakes. I thought it grabs the hub and the hub pulls on the magnet and the magnet is on the arm and that applies the brakes as the drum turns. Excellent video. I’m subscribed
Awesome video, thanks. I have 1 wheel on a 2 axle trailer that locks up as soon as you touch the brake pedal. Any ideas?
Thanks for your videos! I've been learning the ins and outs of rv trailer brakes with your help. If you think that drum is bad from heavy magnet use and poorly adjusted shoes, you should see my record player grooved drums I've discovered. They look like the rings of Saturn!
So glad the videos are helpful! Sounds like you have a job on your hands! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! I learned a lot. I'm off to buy a Lyle 28400 test light.
Great video, and very informative! Thank you! Im about to start some work on a Parker car trailer. The wiring needs to be replaced, and I will check the brakes while Im doing it. Also repack the bearings etc. I also watched your burnishing video, never knew that. Thank you!
We appreciate you watching the channel! Glad to hear the videos are a help!
I have a open race car trailer. Put new backing plates with brake assemblies and new drums last spring. Hauled it less than 1000 miles last spring/summer/ and fall. Parked it in October and didnt use it until December 23rd. No snow. Took it to drop a car off and on the way back empty a wheel would lock up when braking. Turned the controller way down figuring it was up too high for the empty trailer. Parked it again until February 21. Loaded with another car going to the same place drop off and pick up the other car. About an hour and a half drive with stops along the way. No issues on the way up. On the way home about 20 minutes into the drive we went to stop and the right rear tire ( tandem axle) locked up when I applied brakes. This puzzled me. So i turned the controller down again. No issues the rest of the way home. Parked it and jacked it up with no issues found. Sat again until march 29. Made the trip again but when we turned a cormer the wheel was squeaking. Got to our destination and the hin was hot. Jacked it up there. The hub was a little loose but not bad. Pumped grease into the bearing buddy and loaded the car and headed home. The wheel again started grabbing when brakes applied so i turned the controller down to 1.5-2.0 same as before. Got home and the wheel was hot enough to sizzle the grease out. The next day I took the hub off and found the inner bearing stuck to the spindle. Cut it off cleaned up the spindle. Installed new bearing and race packed well. Readjusted all the brakes. Everything felt great. Loaded the car to go to practice 30 miles away. Everything felt like it did last year. Controller was at 4.5-5.0. At about 25 miles it started to grab again. Got to the track and parked in the pits and the grease was bubbling again. Before heading home i xhecked the hub again. Not loose or brake drag. So just to try something I baked the brakes off on that wheel a xouple more clicks. Loaded xar and headed home. 5 miles in going through town it gets grabby again. Drove the rest of the way home not using much brakes. When I got home the hub was extremely hot. Loke got enough you could feel the heat with in a about 2 inches of it. Took it all apart again. Bearings are good. Brakes look good. Magnet looks good from what i can see. Reassembled and reajusted brakes. Took trailer 11 moles empty and the brake grab when applied on that wheel with 2.0 on the controller. Same wheel right rear through all of this. Any suggestions on what it could be?
Very nice trailer brake video! Well explained.
Thanks for watching! Hope it helps!
AWESOME VIDEO - that I may need to watch another time or two. Front axel brakes are working; back axel are not. Front brakes are 13 mths old; rear 19 mths; when checking bearing and greasing, front look like brakes have been used - back look brand new = never engaged. Heading out to see if I can track the issue after adjustING the brakes;) Just wanted to pass along a BIG THANKS!
Great video. If my brakes lock up all four when I pull my brake away cable out, but I can’t get them to grab during normal driving, where would you suggest I start? This would suggest that my brakes actually do work, just not getting good voltage from the truck wiring?
Excellent explanation of how electric brakes work , especially for a learner , thank you 👍
How much difference do left & right make - I was having trouble with brakes locking up at low speeds. Figured out my brakes were on the wrong side . Switched now & and the test drive went well. I'm hoping I solved the problem
Thanks for producing your videos - clear, concise information that is easy to understand
Very nice explanation on electric trailer brake video! Well explained,
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
2 Questions:
1. How much braking power should there be to a trailer wheel when it's jacked up off the ground?
2. How do you know if your magnet has worn out the shoe and made a groove like you demonstrated around 18:50?
I bought a used trailer from a private party recently. I jacked up the tires, had someone spin the tire, and then I applied the truck brakes and compared them to the manual brake controller.
The truck brakes only slightly slowed down the wheels. The manual brakes stopped it completely.
It's clearly due for a brake adjustment which I will now do thanks to your videos. I will also get the lisle voltage tester and see what that reads.
But after I do that, how much braking power should be on the tires?
And how do I know when to go in and replace the magnet/shoe?
When I hit my brakes all the trailer lights light up. I have a 22 f350 and have a constant issue with trailer brakes disconnecting. Truck constantly says trailer disconnected or faulty wiring. Trailer is fairly new.
I have the same exact issue. Did you find a solution?
@BCrane not yet. Tomorrow I'm going to try and see if it's a ground issue. Trailer is too new to be jacked up
@@jt7559 I feel ya. Mine is new too and that dang intermittent disconnect makes no sense. But I don’t see it anything wrong on the truck side at all. Let me know what you find out. I’m putting mine up on jacks next weekend to start the process.
@@BCrane I will. This issue is pi$$ing me off
@BCrane I worked on it some today. Still no luck. Tomorrow I'm digging deeper. I did find one out of the 4 wheels would not engage brake when I did a test pull with the break away cord. So I have the hub pulled off now
Incredibly informative a very complete video thank you so much brother!
Appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching!
Good info , concise
We have a brake that likes to lock up, if we adjust the brakes to work is it always locks up in one position. I marked the hub with paint with the flat spot on the tire. After switching tires it flat spots the new tires in the same position in relationship to the mark.
EXCELLENT informative vid...thanks!!
Thank you for watching! We sure appreciate the feedback.
Great content and exceptionally well presented! Nice work!
Thank you for watching!
Excellent program as I am a novice
You Did A Great Job All Around!!
Thanks for that feedback! It’s much appreciated. Thanks for watching!
Would like to see a vid on diagnosing the wiring from the plug to the brakes. My wiring is old and I've replaced the assemblies but can't get them to energize.
What exactly are you wanting to check? Just the wires? You can check continuity step by step tracing the wires, a remote continuity tester can be had for pretty cheap and is a well worth it. If the ground is run to the body you can check that, but also the ground at the front for the plug. I'm no professional by any means, but if you have any trouble I'll help how I can
Thanks for another helpful video.
You're welcome! So glad to hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Top notch video cheers man keep up the good work it helped me out !
Thank you for watching! The feedback is much appreciated.
Thank you for your message
whats the typical amp draw on a brake magnet?
how can one test the output of a brake signal from the tow vehicle at the connector and how to activate the brakes for the trailer at the trailer connector.
Great video very helpful.
I wish you would have gone into the breakaway switch because that's where our problem is but maybe in another video?
Will one faulty magnetic show “not connected “ on the brake controller?
What about converting to a disc brake set up?
I'm told that the blue wire powering the electric brakes on trailer is only 'hot' at the 7-pin on truck if the truck is moving because of proportional braking on modern trucks. If so, how do I check this connection? My tbc works if squeezed and the break away emergency works, just not with truck brake pedal while running down the road. Ideas for me to check? I have new drums and magnets, checked fuses, and checked for rusty wires at junction box where wires from harness enter the trailer. Thanks for you videos, well presented.
Great video, so helpful
Appreciate the video. I bought a pop-up camper yesterday and the brakes have never worked. I want to replace them, but I have no idea which ones to get. Seems like a lot of trailers use 10" but I'm not sure
a video explaining a way to ensure that no current is going through the wheel bearings would be very helpful. My fathers trailer brake coil shorted through the wheel bearings and the current killed the bearings.
Excellent video!
I have one question that doesn't have anything to do this video.
Is it better to have shoe type brakes or disc brakes?
It just depends on what you’re using them for. Disc brakes will always have better stopping power, but they are a more expensive option and replacement parts are more expensive.
Great video. I am diagnosing very weak brakes on my 7k axles. I have not been diligent with adjusting brakes, so I think I have bad magnets as the one I tested, there was a pull there, but it was not strong. I have since adjusted the brakes, but very little braking force was gained. I'm going to watch your adjusting video just to make sure I am doing it right. But, if I have a weak magnetic force, would you lean towards wiring or a bad magnet? Thanks!
What's an alternative reasonably priced e brakes magnet to dexter? I have a 10k tandem trailer and requires 4 magnets and dexter is too expensive for a farmer. Your assistance is appreciated.
Hi! I agree I put some links in the description of this video. One of those links is for magnets, I believe its for 7k, but you can search from there for the same brand in 10K, I believe. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a very informative video.
I have just bought a trailer with electric brakes and as a "old dude" I am learning all about them.
Can the back of the drum be machined where the magnets run?
Should they be skimmed to true them up if new magnets are fitted as a routine matter?
What sort of thickness limits would apply?
Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the video and info
You're welcome! And thank you for watching!
Very nice video , question my break controller says its conected but the numbers 0.00 it’s blinking and when i hit the brake pedal it goes solid 0.00 numbers not changing. Trailer Not breaking, any ideas what it would be? Thanks
Hi is there a difference in left and right magnets some sales sites sell left or right magnets what is your opinion Cheers
I’ve never seen left or right magnets. Only left or right brake assemblies. There shouldn’t be a difference in the magnets. Great question. Thanks for watching.
I have a big tex 25gn gooseneck with weak brakes and found I was getting weak voltage to the brakes (around 6 volts) but when I disconnect the wire from the brakes instantly just up to 11.4 volts
I just replaced the axle bearings on a Dexter 4400lb axle. The brakes worked fine prior but now they seem a little weak. While the wheels were off the ground I spun the tires and had my wife hit the brakes and they worked after a couple second delay. I didn’t touch the brakes other than spray them with brake cleaner and on the passenger side I may have put the front axle drum on the rear axle. Don’t know if that would matter.
Great video! When I pull the drum off (3500k) axle, the drum is hard to pull off, almost like it is locked down or magnetized. Trailer is not connected to the truck. Would this be a worn drum/magnet or bad magnet? Other axles doesn't do that.
Being the brake wiring is daisy chained, is it normal to see a small voltage drop as you measure downstream? e.g. Maybe 12.5 volts at the first magnet, 12V at the next, 11.5, and finally 11V at the last.
I have been watching your videos and learned alot! I have a medium size utility trailer that had a tire lock up, so I disconnected the break controler. That tire still locked up while moving forward, but rolled fine in reverse. If I jack that tire up, I can spin it in either direction without any issues. What could be causeing this issue? Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. Thanks.
We appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
I have one brake magnet that does not work am I correct that if I test by putting one wire to a positive terminal on a charged battery and the other wire to the negative terminal on the battery I should see the magnet become energized and then have magnetic draw?
Thanks so much for this great information. I am curious, are you able to "face" the inside of the drums if they are not marred too much? Just trying to save a few bucks if this is possible.
excellant video!!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
What would cause my brakes to grab hard sometimes at slower speeds. At highway speed I have to adjust to a higher input but when slowing down or driving slower they grab too hard. My trailer is practically new so not sure
Great video good information
Thank you for watching!
One of the brakes locked up and was smoking like mad on a vintage trailer I bought about 10 minutes out of the town I bought it in. I could hardly tell it stuck on, just thought "hmmm I swear it was getting better fuel economy a few minutes ago!" I pulled it all apart on the side of the highway and just dumped all the parts in a pale and drove the rest of the way home. Not sure why they stuck on, since I don't have a brake controller nor was there a battery on the trailer. I was sitting there wondering how the hell brakes can work with nothing but 2 wires going to them. Now I know what that weird shredded thing was (The magnet). Thanks for the info!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I have a 2023 continental 7k 8,5 x 20 purchased used the trailer brakes are not working the controler will flash a number when turning ignition key I have checked with 2 trucks so its the trailer the batery is 12,35v if i ground the blue wire in battery box controller shows a number I ran another ground near batt box just to check nothing any suggestions would be appreciated thanks
If I may add, check your wiring thoroughly and especially the part that goes THRU the axle tube. While you may think this is a protected area for the wire, it is not. I have solved many brake issues on all types of trailers by replacing the wire running thru the axle tube. The wire literally has the insulation rubbed off and you either end up blowing fuses or have brake that will not work.
I just installed new 5k axles on my travel trailer. These new brakes don't t make any humming noise like my old ones did, but they do stop the wheels when spinning while jacked up off the ground. ( I haven't pulled it with my truck yet) Do Brand new trailer brakes make a humming noise? or not necessarily?
Not necessarily. A lot of times the humming comes with some use and normal wear. The humming is a vibration caused by frequency after usage.
I’m having an issue with the trailer break away, it’s a duel axle trailer and all of them work except the right rear. Now recently the bearings went on it and I had to replace the drum do to the seal getting shredded from the bearings. I’m getting positive volts on both connectors going to the magnet, just not sure if it’s at that hub or the connectors on the left rear?
Question: I have a tandem axle travel trailer. I check my brakes with a digital temp gauge. The passenger side front wheel ways reads 30 to 50 degrees warmer. Is this normal or an indication of a pending problem?
I have a travel trailer where the electric brakes work very well. My car hauler on the other hand has electric brakes which barely work. It’s a 7k trailer with brakes only on the rear axle. They’ve never worked well and I’ve tried adjusting the shoes to no avail. Do you think there’s something wrong or should it have had brakes on both axles? Also on both cars and motorcycles the rear brakes do 80% of the braking. Why would they only install the brakes on the rear?
I think that you've got the percentage of braking between the front and rear brakes. The vast majority of braking is done by the front brakes, not the rear brakes. It's the best reason why cars started using disc brakes on the front wheels, while still using drum brakes on the rear.
What would cause a brake to lock up after stopping and then going but not lockup if stopped bit not go forward or back wards so if you take your foot off the brake but don't move it doesn't lock up? Thanks
If the 4 holes on the face of the magnet are gone, is it warn out?
Great video, thanks. I have a new tandem axle caravan and it has a hot wheel /hubs issue. The tyres are wearing evenly, the bearings are ok and the hubs/ brakes/ magnets were replaced under warranty but I still have very hot hubs/ wheels after travelling 20km. Too hot to hold my hand on the hubs. It is not always the same wheel/ wheels that are hot. The last test I did with the ESC disconnected, one wheel was hot and three were very hot. Do you have any thoughts what could be causing the over heating? Thanks
It sounds like it could be a couple of possibilities
1. Most likely-excessive brake drag (over adjusted)
2. It could have a short in the wiring, allowing voltage to be back fed into the brake wiring.
Good luck & hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@TheTrailerSmith Many thanks for your thoughts
Really appreciated for your knowledge ive learn alot already press the sub button just to say thank you
Awesome! Thank you! We really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
Question: What would cause the brake magnet to be engerized with the trailer unhooked from the truck and plugged into 110v? After I disconnected the power and battery the magnet de-engerized.
Sounds like the break away switch is either being activated somehow or shorted out.
@@TheTrailerSmith Sir, you are a genious! That was the problem. The switch was hidden under the LPG tanks and the 'plug' was gone! Take a pat on the back out of petty cash! :-)
Man! I’m glad to hear this helped!
What if the brakes have 12 volts to the brake assembly and are adjusted correctly and are working . But but are bearly stopping the trailer. The magnets are working my wrench stuck to them. Would you recommend replacing the magnets? Or the whole brake and drum? 8 lug 12x2 brakes 7k axels
Having the same issue. Hopefully he responds
What is the condition of the drum and the brake shoe surface? Are they glazed over? If they are glazed, the brakes will not stop the trailer and they will need to be replaced. If you have pics of the drums and shoes and want me to take a look at them, I don’t mind doing that. You can email them to adventuresmithco@gmail.com
What is the condition of the drum and the brake shoe surface? Are they glazed over? If they are glazed, the brakes will not stop the trailer and they will need to be replaced. If you have pics of the drums and shoes and want me to take a look at them, I don’t mind doing that. You can email them to adventuresmithco@gmail.com.
Had one hub get hot on trip . Gain was at 4 . Took gain totally off . Hub temp was normal. Set gain at 2 . Hub got hot again . Brake was not adjusted out enough. Adjusted . Magnet read 2.0 on ohm meter on 10” brake . Not within specs. Getting new magnet . Hope new magnet works .
Can the brake hub surface be machined where the magnet rides?
Not normally. Most of the time it’s too far gone and it’s getting pretty tough to find someone with the equipment to do it. If you do happen to have someone that can do it, just really take a look at it to make sure it’s not too far along. Great question! Thanks for watching!
I saw a full time trailer guy say applying the brakes in reverse helps the self adjusting ones keep up with adjustments. Any thoughts
I just replaced the brake assembly on one side on one axle and now the truck isn't recognizing the trailer is connected and i have no electric brakes on the trailer. Any idea what i may have done wrong? I disconnected the battery while working on it and reconnected the wires as they were previously.
I have checked the continuity of my brake wires. From the front plug to the brake magnet. Everything checks out until I get to the magnet the both wires check continuity for both live wires in stead of separate for each wire. Please reply
Help Dexter 3500lb. I have brakes on all 4 wheels. Front right hub gets hot and wheel will lock up when braking. Notice flat spot on the tire. Self adjusting brakes. When brakes not engaged wheel spins with minimal drag. Any ideas
We have a travel Trailer that when braking it feels like it almost locking up, its definitely braking more then the truck. where should we start looking? tyia
I have a fifth wheel two axle RV. I just replaced the four backing plates and adjusted the brake shoes to a slight drag on the drum. My tow vehicle is a 2011 ram Cummings diesel with the trailer controller inside on the lower dash. I can adjust my trailer brakes in increments of .5, 1 to 1.5 to 2 to 2.5 all the way up to 10. I can also slide it right to 10 manually. Here’s my dilemma no matter what I set my trailer brakes to they don’t engage but I can manually slide it to 10 and all the wheels lock up nicely so I’m getting electricity to the magnets but I don’t know why when I step on my brakes in my toll vehicle I got nothing.
Am waiting for a reply to this!
I’m currently having issues with my trailer. Trailer brakes work fine when the trailer is not physically touching the ball on the truck. Once the trailer is connected to the hitch on the truck then I lose brakes. Any thoughts?
Do electric trailer brakes work backing down a hill? Will they hold uphill? Will they work submerged in water? Can a 7 pin trailer plug work if submerged? Like in a offroad water crossings?