Great job. Your adjustment method is correct. As for Jack position? I have used the same position many times only on my light utility trailers. On my heavy 8000lb and above I only lift from the frame. (Per all trailer manufacturers) I’ve ever owned. Reason is axle can be bent and you can’t see the axle damage. It shows up in poor tire ware. I’ve even seen people jack from the axle center. Totally bending the axle. I will admit if broke down on the side of the road you jack wherever you can. Been there. Your video was very good right to the point. I’m getting ready to pull all four axle bearings and repack and check brakes. I may just use the easy lube and adjust brakes. Subscribed as I want to see your other videos. This video will help those with little experience become more experienced. Thank you for your time. At 70yo we love our 5th wheel toy hauler.
@ghostpepperrides4805 I had to jack one side to get both wheels off to replace tires. When I lowered the jack on the stand, it only slightly bowed and I decided to do something different. Thankfully I wasn't in the center.
Great video thanks. I just ran into this vid looking for solutions for my issue. My trailer keeps giving my brake controller an OL code and eventually blows the fuse. I’m pretty sure it’s my 5th wheel and not my truck because another truck pulling the 5th wheel gave it the same issue. Do you think this might help? Or do I have another problem altogether?
I would definitely inspect the brakes or the line maybe. Do they work at all? It’s possible the brake line may be damaged or one of the actuators had shorted out and maybe needs replaced.
Just a thought!!! Why not use a 4×4 to span the front and rear axle and place the jack between the two tires? That way you only jack up each side one time instead of twice! Like I said just a thought. 🍻
@@johnnysweekends I think this might be my problem. Just installed a trailer brake controller and not getting any error codes and I think the wiring is good, but it wont lock up the wheels at any setting.
sorry, do I need to have the brakes pressed when doing this? If I don't, does it mean that when towing my trailer, the brake pads will be braking the wheels even if I'm not braking the vehicle?
No brakes, just lift just enough and spin like in the video. Have them drag just a pinch. Once you hit the brakes a couple times they will be good to go. No drag.
Hey thank you for the video I'm having an issue with my brake controller lately if I hit the brake pedal at a stop sign they stay on. If I tap the break they shut back off is this because they're out of adjustment? Thank you
No that would be the actuator sticking from a few reasons. A short, corrosion causing a poor signal, maybe a bad ground and more. I would look into some service on the unit or even check wiring at the truck to make sure you have a clean connection at the truck and trailer side and then head towards the wiring under for a inspection. And then obviously continue if nothing is found
@@johnnysweekends update it was the break switch under the dash. I noticed ever time I would hit the side of the pedal it would release. 2008 suburban 2500. Fixed. Thank you for your time.
you say to rotate to eliminate drag, so one is left to assume up is release and down is tighten. seems to be the reverse on mine. I followed your instructions and it locked them right up. i moved the screw driver up to rotate the assembly down and it loosened. but my brakes still lock up on application
From the inner side you rotate the adjustment wheel in the up direction to tighten or expand the brake pads out a little. You should have a little bit of drag on the wheel but you should be able to spin it by hand still relatively easy. That’s it. When you drop it down and readjust your brake controller and go adjust it down the road a few times, by the time you have hit the brakes 4-6 times, if you lifted the wheels again they would be free spinning again because the high spots will wear right down and now you should be getting better, even pressure on the drum. Hope that makes sense.
Could you do the adjustment with the wheels on the ground? My 2013 F130 has the gain set to 10 and I still feel like the trailer brakes aren't doing enough....time to adjust.
Help! I tightened my camper brake too much and its locked up.(just on one wheel) When I turn the gear teeth to loosen, nothing seems to be happening. Appreciate any advice thx.
After you loosen it a couple you may have to hook the truck to it and move it forward then back real quick just to break it loose. You are probably not strong enough to budge it free. Let us know
I have a brand new 2021 single axle travel trailer. After my fourth trip of towing the trailer I noticed some odd braking when I apply the brakes. the trailer is locking up pretty hard. Is this normal for a new trailer? I thought it was my brake controller and bought a new one but same issue. It’s weird cause when I apply the brakes the first time it’s ok, starts to lock up after the second or third time applying the brakes.
@@johnnysweekends I had it on the least sensitive setting and they still lock up hard. That’s why I bought a new brake controller but it did the exact same thing. My truck is brand new so I’m pretty sure it’s the wiring on the truck side. Figured it’s more trailer related.
Most trailer brakes I’ve ever adjusted The spring pack is right up against the backing plate and you cannot get to nothing I have crazily bent screwdrivers to try to do the job but if the starwheels does not turn good you’re screwed
Hello - great video and very easy. However, I have a 2023 Aliner and the star adjuster cannot be turned clockwise any further. It can go counter-clockwise. There is a slight drag on the brakes (these are new brakes with about 300 miles on them). I contacted Aliner and they said I should have power hooked up to the brakes and someone holding down the brake pedal in my truck when I make the adjustments. I haven’t seen this in any video about adjusting brakes. Does this sound right to you? Thanks!
I don’t know honestly as it could be a different axle or different brake brand. A lot of changes have happened over the last couple years so it may be new. I would look up the brand of axle and brake components and find the brake adjustment procedure process. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful
Modern trailer brakes are almost always self-adjusting. This video is for MANUAL adjust brakes. Self adjusting brakes can be pushed manually but are designed to rotate more easily one direction to take up slack as they self-adjust
The amount of drag you see is so minimal to when you finally get it on the ground and being towed. And once you apply the brakes 3-4 times that drag will be completely minimized to pretty much none be it’s so minimal if you do it right. And it’s not dragging all the way around just the high spots on the pads which again will wear down quick and I’m sure if you checked it the wheels would be free spinning.
Ahh yea discs are nice and honestly I haven’t done drums in a long time which I don’t know which is better electric drum or hydraulic….. I think electrical maybe because if the hydraulic leaks it’s a mess. Idk they are both lame…. Darn trailers just go to disc..!!!!!!! 🤣
I just did a tandem trailer brake job with a little drag of course, towed off and on about 12-13 hours total-but now one brake is warm and the others nothing. Do I need to readjust all 4? Also my brake gain seems factory at 8… maybe gotta tackle that too
I couldn't see what you were doing with the screwdriver. There was a tab that the end of the screw driver was touching but I don't understand what you were doing. This video confused me more than help me.
Sorry it confused you. The wheel inside moves up or down. Spins really to push the pads out or in a little. You are moving those tabs up… the spins the dial inside to adjust the pads ever so slightly. It not easy to see with a camera in your way. Not easy to see in general but just enough to do the job. Once you do it then you’ll get it and know how to do the rest all the time. Hope this helps
@@johnnysweekends Ahh I got it. Just like the old adjustable brakes. Duuuh. I should have known that. Thanks for taking the time to post this video and taking the time to explain to a dunce like me.
Please explain to me how a drum brake will TELL YOUR TRUCK that the pads are used ??? Are you serious ?? The trailer brake controler SENDS voltage to the brakes .It does not RECEIVE information....
They don’t tell your truck anything. Nor does the truck tell the trailer anything except when to apply voltage and how much by you stepping on the brake pedal. But as the pads wear the actuating arm only has so much throw. So as they wear you will typically have to increase voltage to gain more throw on the arm. If you have a lot of gain and brakes are not working great, then it’s probably a good time to go increase the adjuster wheel. This pushes the pads out before the magnet and actuating arm are moved. So now when activated the arm doesn’t have to travel as far and less voltage should be needed for normal brake performance.
@@johnnysweekends First of all electric brakes are drum brakes which utilize brake shoes not pads. The reasoning behind adjusting the shoes to it's recommended setting is to minimize the electric magnetic force required to stop as it rides the inside vertical face of the drum. When the shoes are out of adjustment the mechanism which applies the pressure is the magnet. As more travel by the magnet is required, more energy is required by the brake controller to accommodate the increased travel. As the energy is increased the clamping force increases which in turn causes faster wearing of the magnet to drum surface. You can wear out your magnets prior to wearing out your brake shoes if allowed to continue. Therefore the recommendation to adjust approximately every 3000 miles is recommended. Personaly I disagree with the technique given in the video to adjust to a point that creates drag, while not applying the tow vehicles brakes. Drum brakes are very susceptible to brake fade and do not do well as they heat up. In my opinion adjusting to create drag will result in an increase in component temperature and cause expansion of the material which could increase drag even further than intended. I adjust mind just to the point of drag and then back off ever so slightly. I want them close but not touching. Obviously you are free to adjust yours as you see fit, just my 2 cents worth from someone that's been turning wrenches for 6 decades. Happy trailering
If your camper, trailer or vehicle is raised and you)re under it, a jack stand is always a great idea. You created room to fit underneath. If that room shrinks, you are the jack stand.
A jack stand won’t change the sitting height of the Rv. It will only prevent the wheel that’s off the ground a 1/4 inch from dropping down on the ground that 1/4 inch. I guess watch your fingers..🤷♂️👍🏼
Kinda true. If when possible lifting by the frame is a good choice pending your type of axles and even location of your trailer and even type of trailer. Some trailers the frame is actually hard to access if at all. Some axles like a torsion axle should be lifted by the bracket the torsion arm goes into. Or the frame if easy access. If lifting the axle, as long as you lift as far out as possible normally by the Ubolts it will be fine especially for a small lift such as this. Most of the talk it more legal jargon from the manufacturers and dealers so they can void anything and everything if you don’t do something there exact way or take it to the dealer at all. People have been lifting by the axles for decades and as long as it’s for the right purpose and done right you’ll be fine. This is no different then one wheel way up on a curb and the other flat on the ground on the other side. Or you hitting a big pothole at 65 which will create more wear and tear then a quick 2 inch lift to free spin a wheel and do a break adjustment. When doing more work that’s long term like bearing and brakes and more then sure, frame for sure…👍🏼
@@froglobster If he bent the axle housing, its likely because he placed the jack toward the center of the axle. LIke the the poster mentioned, keep the jack close to the outer U bolts & you will be fine.
Sorry to say, but this video was totally unhelpful when it came to actually adjusting the brakes he didn’t show how to actually check for the drag on adjustment…
Please never again crawl under any vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack! It’s just a major life altering accident waiting to happen. Always use jack stands.
Considering 3 other wheels are on the ground, 2 wheels are chalked and the front it planted on the ground with a tongue jack, I think one wheel a 1/2 inch off the ground is going to be ok 👍🏼
@@johnnysweekends well I agree with you but it’s best on TH-cam to show others. Yes I’ve done it many times but no more. Wife catches me without my jackstands. I pay a price.
you forgot the most important thing, safety ,never just use a jack without car stands i have seen the aftermath of a car that feel of a jack with no stands , and it happens a lot
Well with the unit chalked and 3 other wheels on the ground and one wheel about .5 inches off the ground, it’s not really the same. Unless you put your finger under the tire…🤷♂️
@@johnnysweekends no Jack stand required. ONLY if the height from parts you are under is less than the parts of you that are under that part or there is another pinch hazard are Jack stands required. Nor are they even desirable as they come with their own set of hazards. But alas, TH-cam is filled with shade tree “mechanics” who think they know how to work safely.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job. Your adjustment method is correct. As for Jack position? I have used the same position many times only on my light utility trailers. On my heavy 8000lb and above I only lift from the frame. (Per all trailer manufacturers) I’ve ever owned. Reason is axle can be bent and you can’t see the axle damage. It shows up in poor tire ware. I’ve even seen people jack from the axle center. Totally bending the axle. I will admit if broke down on the side of the road you jack wherever you can. Been there. Your video was very good right to the point. I’m getting ready to pull all four axle bearings and repack and check brakes. I may just use the easy lube and adjust brakes. Subscribed as I want to see your other videos. This video will help those with little experience become more experienced. Thank you for your time. At 70yo we love our 5th wheel toy hauler.
@ghostpepperrides4805 I had to jack one side to get both wheels off to replace tires. When I lowered the jack on the stand, it only slightly bowed and I decided to do something different. Thankfully I wasn't in the center.
Great video thanks.
I just ran into this vid looking for solutions for my issue. My trailer keeps giving my brake controller an OL code and eventually blows the fuse. I’m pretty sure it’s my 5th wheel and not my truck because another truck pulling the 5th wheel gave it the same issue.
Do you think this might help? Or do I have another problem altogether?
I would definitely inspect the brakes or the line maybe. Do they work at all?
It’s possible the brake line may be damaged or one of the actuators had shorted out and maybe needs replaced.
Just a thought!!! Why not use a 4×4 to span the front and rear axle and place the jack between the two tires? That way you only jack up each side one time instead of twice! Like I said just a thought. 🍻
Not a bad idea especially if only for the 1/2 inch you need it off the ground. Would need a bigger jack..👍🏼
Great job on this video
Thank you..👍🏼
Thanks for the help, not sure how much drag you had, wheel spin 1time 2time??🤔 Im still just not sure?
Just need enough to stop in with in about 1 turn because it will loosen up quick.
I do mine once a year.
@@johnnysweekends I think this might be my problem. Just installed a trailer brake controller and not getting any error codes and I think the wiring is good, but it wont lock up the wheels at any setting.
Interesting it won’t at any but yea may need to adjust or inspect to see if it’s time for pads.. 👍🏼
sorry, do I need to have the brakes pressed when doing this? If I don't, does it mean that when towing my trailer, the brake pads will be braking the wheels even if I'm not braking the vehicle?
No brakes, just lift just enough and spin like in the video. Have them drag just a pinch. Once you hit the brakes a couple times they will be good to go. No drag.
@@johnnysweekends great, thank you!
Brake spoon will save you a bunch of trouble for $8. Larry
Hey thank you for the video I'm having an issue with my brake controller lately if I hit the brake pedal at a stop sign they stay on. If I tap the break they shut back off is this because they're out of adjustment? Thank you
No that would be the actuator sticking from a few reasons. A short, corrosion causing a poor signal, maybe a bad ground and more. I would look into some service on the unit or even check wiring at the truck to make sure you have a clean connection at the truck and trailer side and then head towards the wiring under for a inspection. And then obviously continue if nothing is found
@@johnnysweekends update it was the break switch under the dash. I noticed ever time I would hit the side of the pedal it would release. 2008 suburban 2500. Fixed. Thank you for your time.
Awesome, easy fix is always nice
you say to rotate to eliminate drag, so one is left to assume up is release and down is tighten. seems to be the reverse on mine. I followed your instructions and it locked them right up. i moved the screw driver up to rotate the assembly down and it loosened. but my brakes still lock up on application
From the inner side you rotate the adjustment wheel in the up direction to tighten or expand the brake pads out a little.
You should have a little bit of drag on the wheel but you should be able to spin it by hand still relatively easy. That’s it.
When you drop it down and readjust your brake controller and go adjust it down the road a few times, by the time you have hit the brakes 4-6 times, if you lifted the wheels again they would be free spinning again because the high spots will wear right down and now you should be getting better, even pressure on the drum.
Hope that makes sense.
Good stuff. And a lot of useful information in your responses to the comments.
Thank you glad you liked and thanks for watching 😀👍🏼
Could you do the adjustment with the wheels on the ground? My 2013 F130 has the gain set to 10 and I still feel like the trailer brakes aren't doing enough....time to adjust.
Ahh you could but would be hard to tell if it’s to much or not enough or if one has a lot more then another…
Why would you want to do them on the ground?
Nice job Brudda
😀👍🏼
Thank you, Johnny. Great video
Your welcome 🙏🏼
And thanks for watching 😀👍🏼
Good Stuff Johnny! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏🏼 😀👍🏼
Help! I tightened my camper brake too much and its locked up.(just on one wheel) When I turn the gear teeth to loosen, nothing seems to be happening. Appreciate any advice thx.
After you loosen it a couple you may have to hook the truck to it and move it forward then back real quick just to break it loose. You are probably not strong enough to budge it free.
Let us know
Many brakes have a (( cam)) to prevent the wheel from moving in the loose position .Open the drum and check it out
Hey Friend
New subscriber here ,great video 🌍,keep going ,stay healthy 👍greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Love it , thanks you 🙏🏼😁👍🏼
What do you guys think easy Peezy right?? Travel safe👍🏼👍🏼
I have a brand new 2021 single axle travel trailer. After my fourth trip of towing the trailer I noticed some odd braking when I apply the brakes. the trailer is locking up pretty hard. Is this normal for a new trailer? I thought it was my brake controller and bought a new one but same issue. It’s weird cause when I apply the brakes the first time it’s ok, starts to lock up after the second or third time applying the brakes.
No not normal, I would take it back since new and have them looked at.
What is your trailer brake number set to?
@@johnnysweekends I had it on the least sensitive setting and they still lock up hard. That’s why I bought a new brake controller but it did the exact same thing. My truck is brand new so I’m pretty sure it’s the wiring on the truck side. Figured it’s more trailer related.
Yes I agree it’s a trailer problem and would take it back asap to have them fix it.
Can you reach a point where you can’t adjust? Have one wheel that has the adjuster more on one side and isn’t spinning.
If it isn’t or it won’t spin no more then you need to take of the drum and inspect and or replace pads.
@@johnnysweekends thank you
Most trailer brakes I’ve ever adjusted The spring pack is right up against the backing plate and you cannot get to nothing I have crazily bent screwdrivers to try to do the job but if the starwheels does not turn good you’re screwed
Yea it’s lame if you can’t turn from the back. Then a quick job takes a while because wheel and drum come off…. On every wheel..! Lol
Hello - great video and very easy. However, I have a 2023 Aliner and the star adjuster cannot be turned clockwise any further. It can go counter-clockwise. There is a slight drag on the brakes (these are new brakes with about 300 miles on them). I contacted Aliner and they said I should have power hooked up to the brakes and someone holding down the brake pedal in my truck when I make the adjustments. I haven’t seen this in any video about adjusting brakes. Does this sound right to you? Thanks!
I don’t know honestly as it could be a different axle or different brake brand.
A lot of changes have happened over the last couple years so it may be new.
I would look up the brand of axle and brake components and find the brake adjustment procedure process.
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful
Modern trailer brakes are almost always self-adjusting. This video is for MANUAL adjust brakes. Self adjusting brakes can be pushed manually but are designed to rotate more easily one direction to take up slack as they self-adjust
Drag is a good thing?
The amount of drag you see is so minimal to when you finally get it on the ground and being towed. And once you apply the brakes 3-4 times that drag will be completely minimized to pretty much none be it’s so minimal if you do it right. And it’s not dragging all the way around just the high spots on the pads which again will wear down quick and I’m sure if you checked it the wheels would be free spinning.
@@johnnysweekends ok. I could do disc brakes with my eyes closed but never owned a vehicle with drums. thanks!
Ahh yea discs are nice and honestly I haven’t done drums in a long time which I don’t know which is better electric drum or hydraulic….. I think electrical maybe because if the hydraulic leaks it’s a mess.
Idk they are both lame…. Darn trailers just go to disc..!!!!!!! 🤣
thank you
😀👍🏼
I just did a tandem trailer brake job with a little drag of course, towed off and on about 12-13 hours total-but now one brake is warm and the others nothing.
Do I need to readjust all 4?
Also my brake gain seems factory at 8… maybe gotta tackle that too
I wouldn’t do all just adjust the one. If it’s warm then it’s dragging a little. Or not releasing all the way.
@@johnnysweekends ok thanks I’ll do the 1 and see
I couldn't see what you were doing with the screwdriver. There was a tab that the end of the screw driver was touching but I don't understand what you were doing. This video confused me more than help me.
Sorry it confused you. The wheel inside moves up or down. Spins really to push the pads out or in a little.
You are moving those tabs up… the spins the dial inside to adjust the pads ever so slightly. It not easy to see with a camera in your way. Not easy to see in general but just enough to do the job. Once you do it then you’ll get it and know how to do the rest all the time.
Hope this helps
@@johnnysweekends Ahh I got it. Just like the old adjustable brakes. Duuuh. I should have known that. Thanks for taking the time to post this video and taking the time to explain to a dunce like me.
Exactly!! And no problem 👍🏼😀
This should be titled "How to jack a trailer"
Jack a trailer, jack a axle, how ever you wanna do it.
Lighting a axle at the far end a inch of the ground if perfectly acceptable 👍🏼
👍👍👀
😁👍🏼
Please explain to me how a drum brake will TELL YOUR TRUCK that the pads are used ??? Are you serious ?? The trailer brake controler SENDS voltage to the brakes .It does not RECEIVE information....
They don’t tell your truck anything. Nor does the truck tell the trailer anything except when to apply voltage and how much by you stepping on the brake pedal. But as the pads wear the actuating arm only has so much throw. So as they wear you will typically have to increase voltage to gain more throw on the arm. If you have a lot of gain and brakes are not working great, then it’s probably a good time to go increase the adjuster wheel. This pushes the pads out before the magnet and actuating arm are moved. So now when activated the arm doesn’t have to travel as far and less voltage should be needed for normal brake performance.
@@johnnysweekends First of all electric brakes are drum brakes which utilize brake shoes not pads. The reasoning behind adjusting the shoes to it's recommended setting is to minimize the electric magnetic force required to stop as it rides the inside vertical face of the drum. When the shoes are out of adjustment the mechanism which applies the pressure is the magnet. As more travel by the magnet is required, more energy is required by the brake controller to accommodate the increased travel. As the energy is increased the clamping force increases which in turn causes faster wearing of the magnet to drum surface. You can wear out your magnets prior to wearing out your brake shoes if allowed to continue. Therefore the recommendation to adjust approximately every 3000 miles is recommended. Personaly I disagree with the technique given in the video to adjust to a point that creates drag, while not applying the tow vehicles brakes. Drum brakes are very susceptible to brake fade and do not do well as they heat up. In my opinion adjusting to create drag will result in an increase in component temperature and cause expansion of the material which could increase drag even further than intended. I adjust mind just to the point of drag and then back off ever so slightly. I want them close but not touching. Obviously you are free to adjust yours as you see fit, just my 2 cents worth from someone that's been turning wrenches for 6 decades. Happy trailering
That is good but don’t see how they were all even
They don’t have to be perfect your just getting them close and to where the pads are just ready to grab the drum.
Safety first use jackstands
True, but I have 3 other wheels on the ground blocked and one wheel 1/4 inch off the ground ..🤷♂️
But in other circumstances yes!!
Jack stand for what??
🤷♂️
If your camper, trailer or vehicle is raised and you)re under it, a jack stand is always a great idea. You created room to fit underneath. If that room shrinks, you are the jack stand.
A jack stand won’t change the sitting height of the Rv. It will only prevent the wheel that’s off the ground a 1/4 inch from dropping down on the ground that 1/4 inch. I guess watch your fingers..🤷♂️👍🏼
NEVER RAISE YOUR CAMPER BY THE AXLES! ONLY BY THE FRAME!
Kinda true.
If when possible lifting by the frame is a good choice pending your type of axles and even location of your trailer and even type of trailer. Some trailers the frame is actually hard to access if at all.
Some axles like a torsion axle should be lifted by the bracket the torsion arm goes into. Or the frame if easy access.
If lifting the axle, as long as you lift as far out as possible normally by the Ubolts it will be fine especially for a small lift such as this. Most of the talk it more legal jargon from the manufacturers and dealers so they can void anything and everything if you don’t do something there exact way or take it to the dealer at all.
People have been lifting by the axles for decades and as long as it’s for the right purpose and done right you’ll be fine.
This is no different then one wheel way up on a curb and the other flat on the ground on the other side. Or you hitting a big pothole at 65 which will create more wear and tear then a quick 2 inch lift to free spin a wheel and do a break adjustment.
When doing more work that’s long term like bearing and brakes and more then sure, frame for sure…👍🏼
A guy years back had a flat on a company trailer jacked the axle and bent it bad 😆…the boss flipped out!
@@froglobster If he bent the axle housing, its likely because he placed the jack toward the center of the axle. LIke the the poster mentioned, keep the jack close to the outer U bolts & you will be fine.
@@wtfd95 I always lift at the leaf spring shackles with a board to avoid crushing the axle tube.
What does that number represent? Does the magnet go bad? does the magnet need to
be adjusted? There's a lot your not explaining!!!!!
It means your running out of pad to drum contact. Running out of throw. So you adjust it to give it more.
No more adjustment then time for breaks
Couldn't see a damn thing you were doin' with that screwdriver.
If you listen then you should get the idea on what you need to do. It’s not hard to toggle the wheel up a couple teeth at a time….👍🏼
Lol. Don’t worry. It’s worse when you look at it in person.
😂👍🏼 right … try getting a camera in there.
Sorry to say, but this video was totally unhelpful when it came to actually adjusting the brakes he didn’t show how to actually check for the drag on adjustment…
No problem, others found it helpful 👍🏼
Please never again crawl under any vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack! It’s just a major life altering accident waiting to happen. Always use jack stands.
Considering 3 other wheels are on the ground, 2 wheels are chalked and the front it planted on the ground with a tongue jack, I think one wheel a 1/2 inch off the ground is going to be ok 👍🏼
@@johnnysweekends well I agree with you but it’s best on TH-cam to show others. Yes I’ve done it many times but no more. Wife catches me without my jackstands. I pay a price.
you forgot the most important thing, safety ,never just use a jack without car stands i have seen the aftermath of a car that feel of a jack with no stands , and it happens a lot
Well with the unit chalked and 3 other wheels on the ground and one wheel about .5 inches off the ground, it’s not really the same. Unless you put your finger under the tire…🤷♂️
@@johnnysweekends no Jack stand required. ONLY if the height from parts you are under is less than the parts of you that are under that part or there is another pinch hazard are Jack stands required. Nor are they even desirable as they come with their own set of hazards.
But alas, TH-cam is filled with shade tree “mechanics” who think they know how to work safely.