I believe the car wash destroyed my wheel bearing 🛞 because when I went there it lifted the front of my car before I got in neutral. Before I even paid and it’s been making this similar sound every since
I have never heard of that before but anything is possible. Do you have high mileage/age on your car? The bearing may have been questionable and the noise was heard after as a coincidence. That would be my best guess why that happened like that.
Right? I just got a series X and now I'm worried about how much my car will cost. Luckily I did get the version where you make payments on it for 2 years
@@EasyFixShaun maybe more predictable but probably not faster. Also I'm more okay with getting killed by a person than I am by a self driving car. Even if the percentage is way lower, I think it's worse if robot cars kill people, and they will
Damn! I wish all DIY videos were like this. This presentation is exactly how I would do it if it were me. The annotations were perfect, you clearly filmed and edited the production, and your spoken words were easy to understand. I just subbed. Thanks!
Honestly, I was a little relieved that it sounded nothing like the noise my wheel is making, but at the same time, I still have no idea what the noise my wheel is making actually is. Liked for the good and concise information.
This was soooo helpful! I thought it was my brakes so i took it into a tire shop and they said my breaks were good. Once they took it for a test drive he said it sounds like a wheel bearing… and after watching this video and hearing the noise I’m 90% sure it is too.
The fact that you said putting a playing card in the spokes of a car instantly made me like this video I thought I was the only person in the world that described a bad wheel bearing like that on a Subaru a nice work on your video good job keep them coming hopefully it was just as informative to others as it was for me a.
Brilliant video! One of the best and most clearest videos I have found to detect wheel bearing problems. Excellent job on the sound as other videos I have found are extremely difficult to detect the noise. Thank you very much!
@@EasyFixShaun Wanted to say something similar. Simple and to the point video, with no crappy electric guitars background noise. Very helpful video. Thank you!
If you had a video of every major recognizable car noise and what the likely issue is, it would be extremely helpful to so many ppl. Forgive me if you already made more videos of the “car noise” nature (I looked through the playlists and around in your videos and didn’t readily see anything) This is a great video, thanks for making a thoughtful tutorial to empower folks to take care of their cars.
I have a 68 Mustang I've owned since 1977. Car is in beautiful condition. Southern California car. Well maintained. I was driving home after a 12 hour shift. Get off at 8 pm was in December. 3 years ago. I get about 6 miles out just about to get on the freeway and start hearing a growling sound and slight grinding feeling in the steering wheel. I have it towed to Goodyear. Next day they call and tell me the left wheel bearing is totally shot. They replaced both wheel bearings. Totally fixed the issue. I take such good care of the car. But realized, I had never had them replaced in over 40 years of ownership. I bought the car when it was 9 years old with about 50.000 miles on it. I'm sure they were the ORIGINAL BEARINGS!! LOL.
That’s awsome! Some manufacturers wheel bearings outlast others by a lot of miles and time. If they are made to the highest quality possible they always last a long long time. 😀🔧🔧
Excellent video. Years ago I replaced the wrong bearing and I don't want to make the same mistake this time, I'll never forget that feeling of disappointment during the test drive.
OMG THANK YOU! I’ve been trying to explain this to my mechanic for months and they couldn’t find any “issues” but I just knew something was up. I asked for a thorough diagnostic of my car and they sent it back all clear 😑.. thank you for this!
No problem! I’m really glad it helped. Cars are hard to explain sometimes. Sometimes you just need to hear the noise. But all places you go stick a service writer between you and the mechanic. Sometimes you need to talk to the mechanic directly and even go for a ride. You may want to do that on your next trip. Sorry you are having trouble. Stick with it until you get it sorted out 😀
Great point. Hard to say what happened. If they didn't confirm the noise that she was explaining was going on and with no explanation of what it is....i dunno. Leaves a lot more to be communicated and desired on what that sound is.
PRO TIP: Do touch your rims from time to time when you stop after a longer drive. If one feels too hot then there is most likely something wrong. It may be your brake caliper braking too much or being slightly stuck or the wheel bearing getting hot and transfering that heat to the rim.
PRO TIP You don't know more than a mechanic. I work on my own cars and so does my fiance. My father in law rebuilt his 66 Chevelle from the ground up. He knows as much as mechanics. This mechanic in this video does know what he's talking about. My driver's tire is tight. Doesn't move at all. But my front passenger has too much play. I can feel bad grinding through the gas pedal and it clicks really bad when I turn left. It's not the CV joint because those take forever to go out and the only way they really crack is from a crash. Hitting something very hard. They're durable. My boots are not cracked. So no. Everything this mechanic is saying in This video is accurate.
Could be bent flange on wheel bearing. Could be a rotors that needs machining straight from the manufacturer (all of them do a crappy job). Could also be a stuck pad in the caliper bracket not releasing...warping rotors. Could be stuck pins in the caliper to braket mounts not releasing...warping. Could be bad caliper bracket flexible hoses not releasing....warping rotors. They collapse inside and then act as a one way valve not allowing pressure to release at the caliper when you release the brake pedal. Recheck everything. Might need to use process of elimination method to narrow it down. Measure rotor runout with a dial indicator while it is mounted to the wheel bearing with lug nuts. Lots to do. But with some time you should be able to sort this out. i hope that all helps 😃
You sir are fantastic. This is the exact sound my car was making with. I could not figure it out. To me it sounded like a plane taking off. It explains why my steering wheel shook and turned to the left when I braked.Thank you!
Thanks... I was about 80% sure that was the cause of the noise I've been hearing from my old g6 but the camera you placed in the rear passenger seat confirmed it 100%. Putting th camera back there really helped isolate the distinct throbbing hum from the bearing and it's identical to the noise that's been plaguing me the last few weeks.
After the shakedown grab the strut or spring, spin the wheel. If you can feel the vibrations in your hand the bearing is bad. If you feel no vibrations the bearing is good. You are basically using the strut or spring as a frequency converter. It takes the harder to hear higher frequency and turns it into something low enough that you can feel with your hand. PS I am a mechanic
You can! Sometimes with AWD it makes it hard because of the viscous coupler that allows AWD to work. You will still be able to spin. But it might be too slow to detect bad wheel bearing noise. In that case i personally spin test the whole system with a helper and a stethoscope to pinpoint the bad bearing. That is dangerous though. The very best is to use a "chassis ear". You can clip audio detectors near each wheel bearing and test all four at the same time at any speed while driving down the road. Makes pinpointing any bad bearing super simple. I put links in the description. Tools range from $80-300ish. I prefer the wireless steel man option. Works so good.
@@EasyFixShaun wow a quick and detailed response from you, and super helpful in my time of worry (about this noise potentially be a wheel bearing issue)! What nice holiday gift :-). Thank you. Yep I might look for audio detectors indeed, get one off the market or try to borrow/rent it somewhere. Thank you again!
Thank you! Bearing noise is really hard to capture on video. Once you experience it, you never forget it. Please report back here if you find out the brand bearing you used. Let us know how it is working out for you! 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I have a 06 Toyota Camry the front bearing needs to be replaced on the passenger side however I found out that being a pressed bearing that you should replace both especially since TOYOTA runs forever , for some reason a press bearing doesn't act the exact same as the regular hub bearings do ? It's hard to find the press bearing with the hub at the same time and you need to make sure you count the teeth because they're all different
@@catslivesmatter1268 I have a press in bearing replacement (1.0) video here th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html I also happen to have a brand new 2.0 version coming out tomorrow am. So check back if you need a video on replacement. The new version will be a bit better to understand how to do it. As far as replacement they are more involved than a bolt in style bearing. As far as replacement of both at the same time, you could do that. It won't hurt anything. I only replace the bad one when I do replacements. Either way will work though. I hope that helps 😃
I've been chasing after this "phantom" noise the dealer has told me does not exist on two separate visits. Been driving this car for 10+ years, so I know the sound is not normal. I was recommended a mechanic by a friend and will ask him to check all four wheels. I appreciate this video and your detailed coverage of the issue.
Phantom and intermittent sound can be extremely difficult. It could be a wheel bearing. A chassis ear will help you find this noise whatever it is or wherever it is 😃🔧 Wireless Chassis EAR: amzn.to/3n3EkaQ
Thanks for the clear illustrations on bad wheel breading noise in cabin. Mine is a 2017 Subaru Legacy, it makes that similar noise driving on highway, most audible between 70-80 mph. I have 80k miles on the car. Great video!👍
Thank you for this. The in-car noise in your video is the exact noise my car is making too, and this helps me determine my suspicions are correct in believing its wheel bearings. 175,000 Km's on my car, bearings have never been replaced. They will be now!
Awsome! I am glad you could match your sound up! That is probably one of most common type sound of bearings when they start making noise. Nice work figuring it all out 😀😀
You really did help on mine noticing my bearing got problem and ready to replace it as soon as possible to prevent anything happens to me on the highway, thank you!!!
THANKS SO MUCH watching your simple instructions based on your honest expertise, means that many of your female subscribers get to save ourselves from dishonest mechanical services attempting to rip us off for either overcharging or under performing and often downright bodgy mechanical work on our vehicles albeit cars,bikes, boats etc... Thanks again..😊
No problem. Glad to help! That is the purpose of the video! I wanted to make something that helped identify the noise they may have or hear. Some options and general knowledge on how to fix it. Also the urgency to repair it for safest transportation 😀🔧
Hi EasyFix i have been hearing the same voice in my car for two month and was trying to figure it out with some mechanics. no mechanics were helpful as all of them have told nothing about hub bearings. but now after watching your amazing video i realized the problem and decided to replace the rear bearings. i am very grateful to you. you are smart mechanical engineer
ETCG had a test several years ago . On a 1987 Chevy Celebrity , FWD , I put the floor jack under the control arm and ran it , one at a time raised up . I had the other three wheels chocked . I put in a BCA bearing over 50 K ago . I had a friend tell me " I would have changed both " . But there is nothing wrong with the other side . I will also use your method .
Fantastic! The shake and spin test by hand is the best test to do first because its fastest and easy and less intrusive to pinpoint one of the four bad bearings. Often you find two bearings bad. If that doesn't easily pinpoint it is time for "Plan B"- spin em and listen to them all. I prefer lifting to do this, and using a stethoscope to listen in to the bearings from the inside knuckle area at a mounting bolt for the wheel bearing or the knuckle itself. It is dangerous to do no matter how you do it unless using a "chassis ear". Chassis Ear solves all the dangerous aspects and makes it easy to spin all wheels and test all wheels on a simple test drive. Also, if all bearings aren't checked with both methods the loudest wheel bearing or a second bearing that is going bad can be easily missed. Let's be real most of us replacing wheel bearings are working on cars with higher mileage and having two wheels bearings failing is not uncommon in my experience. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen often enough that it is worth checking them all. Thank you for your comment! 😃🔧
I have driven my Audi s4 163,700 miles and one of the front bearings is making this sound. I described it like a propeller engine plane in my footwell lol. Thank you for the helpful tips
Great description! Make sure you do the shake and spin test at all wheels. I have had many I thought were drivers front and turned out the passenger front was bad or even a rear bearing! Bearing noise travels like crazy! 🎯
Thanks for this video they helped me to identify that my bearings was bad and I don’t understand why the check engine and the traction control and the low tire and the AbS was in in my car dash ,nobody can say that only this great mechanic 👨🔧,thanks for this helpful video god bless you!!!!!
I was in shock today Couse I chance the 2 CV axle in my car and I drive to check how the was and my car star making a weird sound and the dash show me the tire pressure,ABS, traction control and Check engine ,I was really disappointed whit the Mechanic ,I ask him men what happened Did you touch something else in the car ,he answer no lol ,this video help me a lot to indentify where does dash message one from !!!! And my bearing is sounds very Loud
Cool man! Ya a noisy bearing should be replaced immediately and is a great place to start. It wouldn’t surprise me after replacement of any bad bearing some or all of your warning lamps will shut off on their own.
You’re awesome, thanks for making this video. You’ve helped me diagnose my problem. Also, thank you for providing all those examples , many videos fail to give thorough explanations like you! Very knowledgeable. God bless.
I bought an 03 Z06 last fall. Three days after, the starter failed. Now, one of the wheel bearings is making noise. 😂 The tires were bad, I replaced them, thinking that was the noise, but the noise continued with new tires! Good video! I’ll lift it up and check for noise.
Thanks for this video you confirmed the roaring sounds coming from the front passenger side. I was thinking it ws the bearings my car is 7 years old now. Guess it's time to start replacing some parts now. First time changing out all my bulbs as well. God bless you!
No problem. I’m glad I could help! Nice job. Yup sounds like there’s a bearing replacement in your immediate future. Don’t forget to shake abs spin all the bearings to pinpoint the bad one. 😀🔧🔧
I just had my wheel bearing fixed. I went in because the breaks felt funny. So when the mechanic called and said besides the breaks it was the rear wheel bearing I honestly never heard the noise. But then again I mainly drive around the city. Which is a speed limit of 25-30. And music kinda of loud. I came to TH-cam to hear the noise. So thank you. Now I’m pretty sure I just got use to the noise.
That happens a lot. The mechanic did a great job sorting that out for you most likely! Wheel bearings don't present themselves as a sound sometimes and can be a loose symptom, which is sometimes never felt. They fail in crazy and scary ways sometimes. Great job getting it sorted out right away when something sounded or felt weird 😃🔧
Thank you so very much. This is so helpful. My 2006 Toyota Forerunner is doing this right now 😞 I cannot afford the repairs so I'm going to try to take a crack at it myself.
Great video! Finally found a clear match up to the roaring noise I hear. The only thing with mine is that it literally only happens between 61 and 63mph. Before and after it's standard road noise. Will defo get it checked
@@EasyFixShaun I did think that it was weird it only happened at that speed. It's constant in tone also-it doesn't get louder or quieter just a loud roar between 61-63 and normal road noise before or after. It's a 2016 opel astra. Thanks for the reply!
Ok. Well as long as the tires aren’t feathered on your opal, I would say the bearing is the most likely culprit. Especially if it’s making the same metallic noise like the video. When they first start to go bad they will be heard only at a certain speed. The noise is everywhere. But for whatever reason it’s only audible at a certain range at first sometimes. You must have sensitive ears! Haha. The next step, I would do the shake and spin test like in the video. Look and listen, if you find anything abnormal or different from a wheel compared to the other three. Hopefully you can pinpoint the problem area. 😃
This is exactly the noise that I’m hearing on my Toyota Avalon ! Thank you for this video, now I know for sure that it’s my wheel bearing that’s making that rumbling noise. I mainly hear it at 30mph and then it goes away but you can hear that high pitch noise at higher speeds, like you were talking about. Once again, thank you 👍🏼
Sounds good man, I will! I saw on another video, from the car car nut, that if you hold onto the strut and spin the wheel, it will tend to vibrate and that you’ll feel the difference. I don’t if this only applies to Toyota vehicles but just wanted to let you know, In case you ever run into a Toyota with a bad wheel bearing again. 👍🏼
@@EasyFixShaun UPDATE: what’s up Shaun! I replaced the bearing (Front left), and most of the sound went away, I can still hear a whirring sound though. Should bearings be replaced in pairs? I’m assuming the other side of the car is where the noise coming from, although when I do the spin test it sounds fine. (Front right). Also, can a bad cv axle make a similar whirring noise too? Thanks, any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
Wow, Chris Fix will be asking you for a few video tips now. Spot on. You're so right about how long they last too. Only did a rear wheel change twelve months ago, and here's me changing it in the early days of winter proper. SKF/Timken mix this time round though.
@@EasyFixShaun whilst under there I could hear the diff in its death throws, so I threw in a diff swap at the same time. Happy Christmas on my back in the December rain! 😁😁
Great advice on all this. I had terrible noise in an old Supra. I tried the left rear, lots of noise but bearing in perfect shape! I tried the right, still noisy so I disconnected the axle. Less noise! So, I ran it with NO axles, raucous noise from center. I removed drive shaft and felt diff with hand. It was not smooth but hard to make 'noise' from hand spin. I replaced with other diff and returned driveshaft, noise seems to have gone way. Now rebuild diff.
Thanks for the video! I took my car to the mechanic to change the hub and bearing when I started hearing the sound and when they gave it back to me the same sound was there, and I told them and they just told me to bring it back again.
Thats a bummer. Sometimes there are multiple bearings bad. Super common but not ideal. Sometimes you can hear the worst one and not the other one that is also bad. Process of elimination type thing. Stick with it and take it back. Go through the motions until Its perfect. You could also ride with the mechanic to help show them the sound you are hearing. That will help confirm for them the sound you want tracked down on the second attempt 😀🔧
Thanks! I usually only do the one that is bad. But if you want to you can replace both. Especially if you have a trip coming up and you do your own work. You can save some money. Most times my people only want the bad parts replaced. If it were brakes, you always replace that stuff in pairs. Bearings you can go either way. On my own ride I usually only do the bad one. But one particular repair I did do both because the vehicle had 250k on it. If you want to save time, doing them both it’s not a horrible idea. That’s the long answer. Sorry I can’t just say yes or no 😀. It’s whatever works for you that will be best, as long as you at least replace the bad one. 🙂
Great video! It's very well explained and I had this problem just a couple minutes ago, the front right tire started roaring so we came to a stop and had no idea what it was but now I know what it is. Again good video and thank you
I 100% have a bad wheel bearing confirmed via the shakedown test. and mine sounds worse than yours. Its very loud. Just to be sure, I compared with other wheels that had zero play. But Im really digging your videos showing how the bearings can be replaced without having to remove the knuckle and use a press. I've done this before. And it was a major PIA. I plan on following your techniques using the bearing kit along with hub puller and slide hammer to get mine fixed. So tired of that noise. For the longest time I thought it was due to old unbalanced tires. Replaced all 4. Now on to fix this !
Excellent work! Thank you! Glad to help out 😀. I love the on car press. I haven't done it any other way in well over a decade. Far superior method for me. I still Have my press on backup bet i just never use it. Good luck with your project 😀
I drove a car with bad wheel bearings for years. I had an anxiety/panic attack. When looking deep into what was making me fearful, one of my fears was driving my truck everyday to work. I never took care of it due to money problems and being irresponsible. But i know God was looking out for me all that time. I know driving that vehicle was extremely dangerous . My car is getting fixed today at the shop and i will never drive or be irresponsible with my life again
Ok, ya anytime you spin a drive axle (front or rear) the oposite side will likely spin the opposite way because of how differentials work. If you have a "locker" in the differential then that will cause the tires on that drive axle to spin the same direction. This old school video is awesome on explaining how a differential works if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/yYAw79386WI/w-d-xo.html It is awesome, I have watched it a couple of times. It is from 1937! Check it out! 😀
Good video. I would like to add another fairly simple symptom that might help to locate a bad bearing. I have a Chevy Aveo that originally would wander side to side. At first I thought the rear tire on the opposite side was the culprit as it was leaking air. Fixed that, and the side to side movement was much improved. But I still would hear an intermittent noise at 70 to 80mph, and the car would pull to the left side. It was worse on warmer days. Checking tire pressures after a 20 minute drive, I discovered there was a lot of heat pouring from the left front. It could've been the brake hanging, but the wheel spun okay. Only thing left was the bearing. The shake test didn't indicate any looseness, and the car was fine at speeds below 60 or so mph. At 115,000 miles, and being an entry level car, the bearings are bound to be at the end of their service life. I didn't notice any growl, but the exhaust has a leak, and the engine is turning at 3100 rpm or more, so it would have drowned out any constant bearing noise. I believe the bearing was in the early stage of failing, so slowing to less than 70 mph allowed it to cool enough for the symptoms to disappear. Obviously, had I continued driving it with the old bearing, it would have gotten worse, and eventually seized.
Yes there are more rare bearing symptoms that are hard to catch or more difficult to catch were the bearings all need to be monitored at vehicle speed on the road. The Chassis Ear is the easiest solution for these bearings. Links in the description below if you need to see what one looks like and cost. They are vital for the 1-3% of bearing failures that are impossible to catch while inspecting with all four wheels off the ground. Sorry you had one of these. The reason some of these bearings fall outside a normal bearing diagnosis is bearing construction materials, bearing style and design, vehicle weight and design. Some vehicles are characteristically way more difficult and always hard to diagnose. It seems like it is more random in my experience when it happens. Thankfully it is pretty rare. If it was more common the Chassis ear would need to be used much more, which isn't a problem. It is just an extra step and not quick and easy like the shake and spin test. Sorry you had trouble. I am glad you stuck with it and found the problem 😃🔧
Money saver!!! Being a female with zero knowledge of mechanics this helps me go to a mechanic and tell them exactly what's wrong without them telling me otherwise!
Thanks. I will do the shake and spin test once I get the chance. It's either a bad bearing or a toy airplane is following me around when I drive at +40MPH lol.
Great video. I'm starting to hear this noise on my 2013 Nissan Altima with 76k miles. Kind of hard to believe it would be a wheel bearing so soon, but I will do this test to confirm. Could also be my tires as they are getting close to the wear bars and are cracked and dry rotted.
Thanks! Ya tires can make some similiar noises if they get feathered bad enough. When you spin test on the hoist and check for play, it eliminates the tire noise from the equation and helps to pinpoint a bearing. So hopefully that will help!
Excellent video. My father has the same exact car and we just drove from NJ to Georgia and back and I could hear it the whole way. Of course he was like “I don’t hear anything!”
Thanks! I am really glad you didn't have a catastrophic failure. Long distance at high speed is the most likely condition for that to happen. I hope you figure out the cause and repair it right away 😀🔧
This was an amazing video. It is so hard to find an informative video on wheel bearings. And I struggle to identify car problems but your video helped a ton. thank you
If the INNER race of the bearing is damaged, you will hear a clunk with each wheel revolution. OUTER race damage will produce a constant roaring sound.
@@michael00collins Possible for sure. One thing I know with certainty is that when shifting side to side, if the noise changes a bad wheel bearing has been confirmed. It however does not confirm bad bearing location. The shake and spin test in the video helps locate the bad bearing. There are other methods also such as a stethoscope or a chassis ear 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun well I have bearing noise. Doesn’t seem to be excessive play in any of the wheels. And it’s constant above 15mph doesn’t matter where I put weight it’s always making noise
My driver's side front wheel bearing started acting up at 156,000 miles on my 2006 Highlander. I'm replacing both front bearings so I don't have to worry about the other one going out anytime soon.
Smart! Ya with that many miles, You might as well get them both done. Otherwise its a gamble on the other bearing. It served it purpose, that's good mileage 🔧😃
Yes, it could be a bad bearing. It is very common for noise to be louder when turning slightly to one direction or the other. The noise would be quieter in the opposite direction. I would say you most likely have a bad wheel bearing. The next step, shake and spin all the wheels like in the video to get a visual and listen to the wheel bearings. Usually this will pinpoint the bad bearing for me easily. Make sure you do all four wheels. Bad wheel bearings tend to send the noise where it is not. You could hear the noise in front, but end up finding a bad bearing in the rear. Or you think the bad one is on the left, when its actually on the right. I am right about 1/2 the time. Try it out and report back if you have any luck! 😃
Finally found a video that pinpointed the noise from my 2010 Highlander. Now to search on how to replace a bearing. I’m sure I will need to rent a pulling tool or something of that nature. Thank you!
Glad it helped!! 😃 Press-In video for your front press-in style bearings: th-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/w-d-xo.html Bolt-In video for your rear bolt-in style bearings: th-cam.com/video/ydneeMsNMOA/w-d-xo.html
I never replace in pairs. I replace the just the defective bearing. You could replace both if you want, It wouldn't hurt anything. Especially if you have a lot of miles on your vehicle. But usually it isn't necessary 😀
Great Tutorial. Thanks! The right rear wheel bearing on my 2014 Subaru Forester went bad at 81k miles. It spent its first 4 winters in Massachusetts and the mating surfaces between the wheel hub and the knuckle were rusty and it was REALLY hard to remove. Your video on the Hub Shocker pushed me over the edge and I'm ordering one for next time. I used a MOOG replacement wheel hub and the hum disappeared, but unfortunately, after 17,000 miles it started humming again. MOOG was great about replacing it under warranty (just had to ship the bad one back to them) and so I put the second MOOG in at 98k. Again the hum disappeared, but around 125k I started hearing the hum (that's 27,000 miles on the 2nd one until it started humming.) I've put it off and it has gotten louder and finally now at 136k, I'm getting around to replacing. Free or not, I didn't want to keep replacing the same wheel bearing, so I went to Subaru for my next one. I'm waiting for the Hub Shocker to arrive before I put it in. I got the MOOG bearing for $107. I got the Subaru OEM for $155 on-line and picked up at my local dealer. I'm not trying to bash MOOG, just sharing the experience I had. All of the suspension components on that wheel seem fine and I can't imagine anything that would be causing only the right rear wheel bearing to fail.
Thanks for the comment! I would be you are right and you have a bad bearing again. Subaru rear bearings are having a lot of problems. Moog has gone downhill for a half decade now. I have seen the same thing. Check out everything while you are replacing the bearing and perform the shake and spin test like in the video before and after your bearing replacement to be sure its fixed. That should help locate any other loose parts. Did you see hub shocker 2.0 video? I solved mounting issues and bearing seperation issues for your next replacement. The tool is amazing! 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for your quick feedback. I did see your hub shocker 2.0 review (nice job btw) and I have one on its way to me. I was leaning toward getting one, but your video is what pushed me over the edge. $95 on Amazon and free shipping. About using the MOOG wheel hub - I've gone with aftermarket parts for just about everything for the cost savings and this is the first time they've let me down. Yesterday, I put a Cardone front CV axle in the Forester. It was $52 at RockAuto compared to $399 (no typo - really $399 for just the part) for the OEM Subaru axle online and even more in person.
I agree aftermarket is usually ok. But there’s major quality issues with some stuff. So I usually try em once and then never again if burned. The subbie shafts are expensive but worth it. The cheap axles are nice. But it seems like they have a three year time limit max. So if you are keeping the car it can be worth the 399. The subbie shafts never go bad unless the boots tear abs let water in. I’m glad you got the tool! Let me know how it works for you?
@@EasyFixShaun Update...I could tell the bad bearing was in back from my driving test and it *seemed* like it was the right rear again (which was the 2nd MOOG with 38k miles.) But on closer inspection (using the recommendations in this video) I realized it was the LEFT rear hub that was original and had 136k miles. So RR original lasted 81k, LR original lasted 125k and finally replaced yesterday at 136k. The first MOOG replacement lasted only 17k, but MOOG replaced it for free and the 2nd one is actually still fine after 38k (so not as much of a knock on MOOG as I originally posted.) I used the Hub Shocker 2.0 that you recommend in a different video and it was a GAME CHANGER!! A few notes on that... 1) It is key to remove the ABS sensor, 2) I had the car on jack stands and I used a jack to brace underneath the knuckle at a control arm so the force wasn't absorbed by the suspension and 3) I was nervous about having the axle nut on - (I just replaced the RF CV axle and don't want to put any unnecessary force on the axle joints - probably being overly conservative) so I left it off. With the hub shocker rotated to the top, the hub bearing didn't try to separate - so it worked without having the nut on. I had to smack the hub shocker pretty hard with an 8 lb hammer like in your video, but it was 1000 times easier than the way I did the previous one.
My 2008 Lexus IS250 had brand new brakes put on and I sometimes hear that normal break sounds you pointed out. I initially thought I had bad bearings but my car is quiet , drives normally with no Loud cabin noise. So basically I worried over nothing assuming it was bad wheel bearings. This video showed me that the symptoms would be far worse than just the normal brake sounds I hear.
Super helpful! Without having done the shake or spin test, I am already 90% sure based on the "whomping" from your driving video that this is my problem... 😅
Great video! Thanks! Couple questions... Did you notice any type of burning rubber type smell? Possible the grease burning up? Or, would the bad wheel bearing get hot enough to make the disc hot? The right rear disc (which I’m pretty sure is the wheel with the bad bearing), is just as hot as the front two. The left rear is about 75% cooler. Thanks for any insight you can give me.
Glad you liked it! I would shake and spin each wheel to start with. You might find a stuck caliper in the rear as well as a bad wheel bearing. It sounds like possible the brake is hung up and dragging creating the heat. Could be a bad caliper or bracket pin. Or a stuck pad. Or a bad hose. Something is causing the brake on that wheel to not release properly. I don’t usually experience any burning rubber smell with bad wheel bearings. I suppose it could happen. I can’t think of a time that has ever happened. I would start with a shake and spin. If you can not spin that wheel because the brakes are hung up, you may have two problems.
Am also experiencing the burning rubber smell, my mechanic says its just the bearing...I changed my bearings 3months ago now this again..got any advice?
If it smells like rubber i would start by checking your tires pressures. If that is ok check your tire treads. Make sure there isn't any feathering. The alignment could be off from worn, bent, or broken parts that you don't know about. That could create a slight tire smell from tread wear. Although not a super common symptom. But if you noticed it, it has to be coming from somewhere. So basically keep starting over at square one until you find the problem. Eventually you will catch the problem. There could have been multiple problems going on this whole time that were not caught. Sometimes they don't jump out at you, and require several tries. If a bearing was bad it's a great place to start. Process of elimination... 😀🔧
Thank you on the advice, unfortunately I replaced all 4 wheels and tires, everything is tight up front, was told it was a bent axle, but replaced that and no difference, also corrected pinion angle with no change. Maybe it’s nothing but my rear view mirror gets slightly blurry with this slight vibration, the driveline is smooth at 80, if it wasn’t I’d feel the vibration by holding the transmission shifter, which as you know sits right on top of the transmission
Sorry about that. It sucks when you can not find the problem. Did you perform the "shake and spin test" in the video? Everything tight on the steering suspension? If so, anytime that happens for me I start back at square one and repeat my diagnosis. It sounds as if something spinning is causing your problem without a doubt. Some noise vibration and harshness issues are an extreme pain because there are so many components that spin. Many of those parts, problems can not be seen easily. Like inside of a cv axle boot, or inside of a tire if a belt is shifted and causing a pull or something. I would start over by spinning all components and do a visual test to start eliminating each component one by one. It is possible a rim could be bent or the hub mount has rust under a rotor or something and the spinning surface is not true. I have had both of the issues send me on a wild goose chase. Just spitballing some more ideas for you. Sounds like you have a hard problem to diagnoses. Keep working at it and put the time in. Work your way through it. You will find it 😃🔧🔧
Thank you! I will get back when I finally resolve this, I’ve driven the jeep on a 200 mile trip yesterday and honestly it’s livable but just know it’s not right.
Thank you so much it was so useful I am an apprentice mechanic and I need these types of videos to increase my knowledge. Please keep doing more of diagnostic parts with test drives and more. Really appreciate it.
This is the video i was looking for. When i drive slow my car doesn’t produce noise. But when i drive faster at around 40-50 km/hr, it felt as if I am inside an aeroplane. The guys at the workshop told me it was due to worn out disk(I drive manual) but this video makes me believe that the noise is due to faulty wheel bearing. Thank you so much.
Excellent! Glad to help. I think most likely you have a bad wheel bearing. They are a wear item and it is very common for one to go bad after years of wear and tear 😀🔧
The "shake and spin" test will eliminate your tires and clutch and tell you if one is obviously bad. I recommend checking all 4 wheels. Even if you can not hear the noise going slow, most times the test will expose noise when testing. Just compare all wheels and if you find one that stands out louder than the others, you have found a problem! 😀🔧
My problem was that when I was trying to accelerate my Mercedes-Benz, I was getting the sensation that the car was exhausted ( like it couldn't handle the increase of speed) and making this sound like the one you describe. My shop told me the emergency parking brake actuator was bad and front wheel bearings. They fixed the actuator, not yet the bearing, now the car can accelerate but the humming sound is still there ( I will take it to a regular shop to replace, the dealer is too expensive). My question is, how likely is that both things broke at the same time? I thought the sound started when I couldn't accelerate the car. Thanks, u r great.
Hi Susan! It's hard to say if both repairs were needed at the same time. If the car is older and has high mileage I would say the likely hood of the that happening increases. I wouldn't think one caused the other unless the bad bearing and bad brake actuator are on the same wheel. If they are on the same wheel, Its possible one problem caused the other or caused a questionable bearing to go bad after the actuator froze. Does that make sense. It's hard to say. Hopefully once the bearing is fixed it will drive great for you. 😃
I explained this to my mechanic for weeks and changed few mechanic idk why they dont understand this noise. Can you explain how we know its right side wheel or left side wheel ? By the way great video. And thanks for explaining
Once you identify you need a wheel bearing, try to reproduce the noise in the air and pinpoint the culprit. I use the "shake and spin test" in the video to pinpoint most obviously bad wheel bearings. Let me know if that helps 😀🔧
That's exactly the sound I'm hearing underneath on my driver side.. mechanic can't find that stupid noise.. They even removed all the dashboards and tied a lot of things..nothing happened... Now,I know where to start.. Thank you for the excellent presentation... I even described it as an electrical noise.. However, they were the same sound
Great video! Very clear. The info about check engine and traction control lights going on was an eye opener. This had been happening intermittently and driving me crazy. I could not figure it out. Thanks! You have a new subscriber.
Thank you. Glad to help!! Wheel bearings can be a little mysterious sometimes. Make sure you perform the shake and spin test in the video right away. When the abs lamp goes off usually the bearings are already very very loose and dangerous. 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun really bad front drivers side and not so bad front passenger side. Replacing now. Thanks again. Why would the check engine light come on and what code would it throw?
Great job fixing immediately! Usually the check engine lamp is just a mirror of the abs lamp cord that are on. Both computers are connected so they both will show the same code sometimes. Need to check to be sure though 😀🔧
Hey Shaun...glad to see you're still creating in these crazy times! I've been chasing bad front hubs/bearings in my Nissan TItan (with videos) for a few years now. Been through 2x Moogs, 1x SKF and now Nissan-installed OEMs. They just keep going out. No binding in the transaxle, but I'm thinking something is wrong with the front diff causing the issue. At a loss, but at least it's still under warranty so I can go back and complain about the terrible diagnosing they did at the dealer... Keep up the good work bro!
Thanks man! Ya that is weird they are going bad like that. I don't know what the issue is with those. Typically the Japanese manufacturers don't undersize things like that. They usually go for durability. So the bearings should be decent but for some reason they are not. You aren't the only one with bearing problems with your nissan. Hang in there! Good to hear from you. 😀
SKF used to be the highest quality but honestly not anymore sadly. I find original bearings are made to last, replacements are made to be replaced. Simple as. If you can take some off a junkyard original that's a 50/50 chance of being the best quality/already shot lmao
I've got nearly 200,000 miles on my car and am hearing a loud humming sound or lots of road noise. The noise comes and goes. No play in my tires. But my rear tires wear really fast on the outer side
Holy heck. I have a bad wheel bearing and I have noticed my abs sensor has been going off like an indicator, honestly I thought I had to pay more. I think you have just saved me almost $300. I thank you immensely
The abs light doesn't always come on for every bad wheel bearing. Its a good indicator if it is on though. If you hear wheel bearing noise and the abs lamp is on- i would say you have two solid bad wheel bearing symptoms. But if wither one pops up- check the wheel bearings out asap.
The noise I’m hearing from my drivers side wheel is a high pitched whine. Its worse during the cold, but after a few minutes it’ll go away. Is that a bearing?
Hard to say exactly. I would suspect a bearing or brake concern. I would next perform the shake and spin test from the video to try to pinpoint the problem. 😀🔧🔧
I replaced a bearing today and to my dismay it wasn't the one making the noise. I did the shakedown and spin tests on all the wheels and there really wasn't a noticeable difference between any of them. How can I distinguish which bearing is bad?
The next thing I will use is a chassis ear to locate hard to find bearings. I also will use a stethoscope and listen to spinning bearings while the vehicle is spinning the wheels on the hoist to locate bearing noise. The stethoscope method works for me quite well. But it is dangerous for obvious reasons. So I do not really recommend it.
My volvo from 2005 is shy of 190,000km purchased from 1st owner 1 year ago. It sat 4-5 years and I’ve now basically replaced the whole front suspension besides the inner tie rod and knuckle
How can you tell if it’s a bearing or the rear differential? Also, my rear wheels (both) seem really hard to spin. Brakes are new and calibers are not stuck etc.
Good question. There different ways to check for bad bearings with varying degrees of danger involved. The noise is from something spinning. So it could always be a differential. But...always check the most obvious source first. The wheel bearings are the most likely to fail. They are a wear item, they are greased from the factory and are never re-greased or serviced until failure. The rear differential bearings are the same basic type of bearing except a little bigger and are bathed in a constant bath of lubricating differential oil. So they are much less likely to fail. They do fail, don’t get me wrong. But the most likely failure will always us be the wheel bearings. So check those first. I’m not sure why your wheels spin hard. You may need to track that down first so you can spin check them. If after performing the shake and spin test on all wheels I still can’t pinpoint the problem....I will spin the tires with the engine and a helper. I will listen to all wheel bearings and differential bearings to find the culprit. It is an advanced technique that has more danger involved because I am under the vehicle on a hoist with it running and everything spinning. The safest way to test and the best way to learn, get a chassis ear. They are electronic and have little microphones to clip on all the components you think could be bad. Then you just go for a test drive and listen through the device. Some models even have bluetooth and use the audio system in the car. They are pretty awsome. I hope this helps. 😀
The sound I’m hearing is identical to the sound of the bike wheel before you put the card in it. Louder and faster as the car accelerates, coming from the front right passenger. Could it still be a bearing?
Yup. Very suspect for a wheel bearing. To pinpoint point it the next step is the "shake and spin test" from the video. That exposes most wheel bearings that are bad easily 😀🔧🔧
Track that wiggle down. If it does it on both the y and x axis its almost always the bearing. Track it down though, you want to see where the movement is coming from to be sure. Sometimes a helper is the best way to located the movement. Sometimes I can spot it myself. Ask someone to help if you need it 😀🔧
250,000 miles on my 05 Vue 2.2 liter FWD 5 speed manual. The roar has gotten more pronounced on the rear wheels in the last year. With the long range drives I make, no wheel separation here please. It’s on the to do list for tomorrow.
I have a 2009 Subaru Forester that I've driven hard, but not really as an off roader . . . just hard on lots of secondary roads in the mountains. Total of 255,000 miles. I just replaced my right rear bearing (at a mechanic's shop!!), and I'm getting ready to do my front left myself. The right rear was pretty shaky but the front left just needs to be done as preventative maintenance.
Nice!! Well done! Your fronts are much more "Normal" to repair. A hammer should be all that is needed to remove it. The rears can be "off the charts badly stuck" and usually need to be forced out in some fashion other than a hammer for quickest and best results. I like the shocker method. SMA uses grade 8 bolts. Either method is fantastic if you ever need to prevent repair your other rear bearing. Here's a link to the shocker video i made if you ever need it 😃⚡️ th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
*_New sway bar link video_* th-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/w-d-xo.html
I believe the car wash destroyed my wheel bearing 🛞 because when I went there it lifted the front of my car before I got in neutral. Before I even paid and it’s been making this similar sound every since
I have never heard of that before but anything is possible. Do you have high mileage/age on your car? The bearing may have been questionable and the noise was heard after as a coincidence. That would be my best guess why that happened like that.
got 25yrs out of my bearings , just changed the front spindle ones just to up date them they were the NSK's..
Does it sounds like a humming noise almost as if you need to shift to a higher gear but not as bad?
Nice!
Just when i had enough for a PS5 and a playstation VR bundle the devil strikes again forcing me to spend my money fixing stuff on my car 🥺😭
Sorry! Cars suck 😃🔧🔧
I know what you mean. No days off keep hustling!!
Right? I just got a series X and now I'm worried about how much my car will cost. Luckily I did get the version where you make payments on it for 2 years
What do you all think of a Tesla's predicted Robo-Taxi. Would that make transportation easier? Harder? Cheaper? More of a pain? More predictable?
@@EasyFixShaun maybe more predictable but probably not faster. Also I'm more okay with getting killed by a person than I am by a self driving car. Even if the percentage is way lower, I think it's worse if robot cars kill people, and they will
Damn! I wish all DIY videos were like this. This presentation is exactly how I would do it if it were me. The annotations were perfect, you clearly filmed and edited the production, and your spoken words were easy to understand. I just subbed. Thanks!
Thank you! It's harder than it seems to make the noise videos but I love making them 😃🔧
Honestly, I was a little relieved that it sounded nothing like the noise my wheel is making, but at the same time, I still have no idea what the noise my wheel is making actually is. Liked for the good and concise information.
Thanks! Not all wheel bearings make the same noises. I would recommend trying the shake and spin test in the video to see if anything turns up.
This was soooo helpful! I thought it was my brakes so i took it into a tire shop and they said my breaks were good. Once they took it for a test drive he said it sounds like a wheel bearing… and after watching this video and hearing the noise I’m 90% sure it is too.
Glad it helped! Get r fixed up! 😃
The fact that you said putting a playing card in the spokes of a car instantly made me like this video I thought I was the only person in the world that described a bad wheel bearing like that on a Subaru a nice work on your video good job keep them coming hopefully it was just as informative to others as it was for me a.
I am glad you liked it. Thanks a lot I really appreciate that! 😃🔧🔧
That's exactly what I tried to describe and nobody understand what I was trying to say 😂 all this happened after my car got towed on accident 😑
Im glad that helped you 😀🔧
I explained to my wife. Sounds like a twig got stuck in my bike spokes lol
Metallic type noise? Sounds like a possible wheel bearing to me! Next step to easily find the bad bearing- the shake and spin test in the video😀🔧
Brilliant video! One of the best and most clearest videos I have found to detect wheel bearing problems. Excellent job on the sound as other videos I have found are extremely difficult to detect the noise. Thank you very much!
No problem 😃 I am glad it helped you out!
What’s the link for the chassis stethoscope?
Wireless Chassis EAR: amzn.to/3n3EkaQ
@@EasyFixShaun Wanted to say something similar. Simple and to the point video, with no crappy electric guitars background noise. Very helpful video.
Thank you!
@@-First-Last No problem very glad to help 😃
If you had a video of every major recognizable car noise and what the likely issue is, it would be extremely helpful to so many ppl. Forgive me if you already made more videos of the “car noise” nature (I looked through the playlists and around in your videos and didn’t readily see anything)
This is a great video, thanks for making a thoughtful tutorial to empower folks to take care of their cars.
Thanks a lot! That is a great idea, I have a made few sound videos so I should make a playlist for that. I am glad it helped you out 😃🔧
Done. Thank you! I will work on expanding the playlist 😃🔧
I have a 68 Mustang I've owned since 1977. Car is in beautiful condition. Southern California car. Well maintained. I was driving home after a 12 hour shift. Get off at 8 pm was in December. 3 years ago. I get about 6 miles out just about to get on the freeway and start hearing a growling sound and slight grinding feeling in the steering wheel. I have it towed to Goodyear. Next day they call and tell me the left wheel bearing is totally shot. They replaced both wheel bearings. Totally fixed the issue. I take such good care of the car. But realized, I had never had them replaced in over 40 years of ownership. I bought the car when it was 9 years old with about 50.000 miles on it. I'm sure they were the ORIGINAL BEARINGS!! LOL.
That’s awsome! Some manufacturers wheel bearings outlast others by a lot of miles and time. If they are made to the highest quality possible they always last a long long time. 😀🔧🔧
Excellent video. Years ago I replaced the wrong bearing and I don't want to make the same mistake this time, I'll never forget that feeling of disappointment during the test drive.
Same here. Thanks for the comment! 😃🔧
This was me yesterday
OMG THANK YOU! I’ve been trying to explain this to my mechanic for months and they couldn’t find any “issues” but I just knew something was up. I asked for a thorough diagnostic of my car and they sent it back all clear 😑.. thank you for this!
No problem! I’m really glad it helped. Cars are hard to explain sometimes. Sometimes you just need to hear the noise. But all places you go stick a service writer between you and the mechanic. Sometimes you need to talk to the mechanic directly and even go for a ride. You may want to do that on your next trip. Sorry you are having trouble. Stick with it until you get it sorted out 😀
Sounds like those guys might be honest, especially if you're trying to give them money and they're not coming up with random work to charge for
Great point. Hard to say what happened. If they didn't confirm the noise that she was explaining was going on and with no explanation of what it is....i dunno. Leaves a lot more to be communicated and desired on what that sound is.
I’ve been trying to explain this sound to my dad for the past few weeks and no luck, but thanks to this awesome video !!!
PRO TIP:
Do touch your rims from time to time when you stop after a longer drive. If one feels too hot then there is most likely something wrong. It may be your brake caliper braking too much or being slightly stuck or the wheel bearing getting hot and transfering that heat to the rim.
yes. Touch tires and compare also. Low inflation that isn't noticed will produce much more heat or the heat could indicate other things 😃🔧
PRO TIP
You don't know more than a mechanic.
I work on my own cars and so does my fiance. My father in law rebuilt his 66 Chevelle from the ground up. He knows as much as mechanics. This mechanic in this video does know what he's talking about. My driver's tire is tight. Doesn't move at all. But my front passenger has too much play. I can feel bad grinding through the gas pedal and it clicks really bad when I turn left. It's not the CV joint because those take forever to go out and the only way they really crack is from a crash. Hitting something very hard. They're durable. My boots are not cracked. So no. Everything this mechanic is saying in This video is accurate.
Also driving for super long distances will make any vehicles tires hot. I'm talking 5+ hours. But a bad hub assembly is not forgettable.
Could be bent flange on wheel bearing.
Could be a rotors that needs machining straight from the manufacturer (all of them do a crappy job).
Could also be a stuck pad in the caliper bracket not releasing...warping rotors.
Could be stuck pins in the caliper to braket mounts not releasing...warping.
Could be bad caliper bracket flexible hoses not releasing....warping rotors. They collapse inside and then act as a one way valve not allowing pressure to release at the caliper when you release the brake pedal.
Recheck everything. Might need to use process of elimination method to narrow it down. Measure rotor runout with a dial indicator while it is mounted to the wheel bearing with lug nuts. Lots to do. But with some time you should be able to sort this out. i hope that all helps 😃
Awesome! Take Care 😃@Ballen1182
You sir are fantastic. This is the exact sound my car was making with. I could not figure it out. To me it sounded like a plane taking off. It explains why my steering wheel shook and turned to the left when I braked.Thank you!
Thank you!! Glad it helped 😀
Do you remember how much it cost to replace your wheel bearing? I have to replace the front two.
Thanks... I was about 80% sure that was the cause of the noise I've been hearing from my old g6 but the camera you placed in the rear passenger seat confirmed it 100%. Putting th camera back there really helped isolate the distinct throbbing hum from the bearing and it's identical to the noise that's been plaguing me the last few weeks.
Excellent! Wheel bearings are quite difficult to pinpoint sometimes. They are elusive most times. Glad to help out! 😀🔧
After the shakedown grab the strut or spring, spin the wheel. If you can feel the vibrations in your hand the bearing is bad. If you feel no vibrations the bearing is good. You are basically using the strut or spring as a frequency converter. It takes the harder to hear higher frequency and turns it into something low enough that you can feel with your hand.
PS I am a mechanic
Great tip on coil spring cars! Great explanation. Thanks man 😃🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun - do you know if you can do the spin test on an AWD (2nd Gen CRV)?
You can! Sometimes with AWD it makes it hard because of the viscous coupler that allows AWD to work. You will still be able to spin. But it might be too slow to detect bad wheel bearing noise. In that case i personally spin test the whole system with a helper and a stethoscope to pinpoint the bad bearing. That is dangerous though. The very best is to use a "chassis ear". You can clip audio detectors near each wheel bearing and test all four at the same time at any speed while driving down the road. Makes pinpointing any bad bearing super simple. I put links in the description. Tools range from $80-300ish. I prefer the wireless steel man option. Works so good.
@@EasyFixShaun wow a quick and detailed response from you, and super helpful in my time of worry (about this noise potentially be a wheel bearing issue)! What nice holiday gift :-). Thank you.
Yep I might look for audio detectors indeed, get one off the market or try to borrow/rent it somewhere.
Thank you again!
No problem. Sorry for the late reply. Some of these comments get buried when under another comment. Cheers 🍻
I have the same sound in the rear wheels of a 2014 mazda cx9...thanks, good video... every time the speed increases, the noise in the car increases...
Excellent! No problem. Don't forget to shake and spin all the wheels. I am often surprised where the noise is coming from 👀😀
@@EasyFixShaun I already solved it, if I changed the two at the back and the problem was solved, you are really the best, thank you very much...
Just got a bearing replaced. Now I know what to listen for in the future! Hopefully I got a good quality bearing. Great video!
Thank you! Bearing noise is really hard to capture on video. Once you experience it, you never forget it. Please report back here if you find out the brand bearing you used. Let us know how it is working out for you! 😀
@@EasyFixShaun just replace each one because they all have the same milage
That’s one way to do it for sure! Most people replace just the faulty bearing 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I have a 06 Toyota Camry the front bearing needs to be replaced on the passenger side however I found out that being a pressed bearing that you should replace both especially since TOYOTA runs forever , for some reason a press bearing doesn't act the exact same as the regular hub bearings do ? It's hard to find the press bearing with the hub at the same time and you need to make sure you count the teeth because they're all different
@@catslivesmatter1268 I have a press in bearing replacement (1.0) video here th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html
I also happen to have a brand new 2.0 version coming out tomorrow am. So check back if you need a video on replacement. The new version will be a bit better to understand how to do it. As far as replacement they are more involved than a bolt in style bearing. As far as replacement of both at the same time, you could do that. It won't hurt anything. I only replace the bad one when I do replacements. Either way will work though. I hope that helps 😃
This video is really great.. Thanks for the effort you went through to create such a helpful guide for diagnosing a bad wheel bearing
You are welcome! Glad to help 😃🔧
This is a great video. You managed to capture the sound well. It's an ugly sound because we all know what it means. Thanks for this one!
great discription! Yes very bad noise 😃🔧
I've been chasing after this "phantom" noise the dealer has told me does not exist on two separate visits. Been driving this car for 10+ years, so I know the sound is not normal. I was recommended a mechanic by a friend and will ask him to check all four wheels. I appreciate this video and your detailed coverage of the issue.
Phantom and intermittent sound can be extremely difficult.
It could be a wheel bearing. A chassis ear will help you find this noise whatever it is or wherever it is 😃🔧
Wireless Chassis EAR: amzn.to/3n3EkaQ
Glad to help! 😃
Brilliant video. just noticed the noise recently. The sound coming from the video is exactly the noise from the rear of my wagon. thanks.
Thank you! Really appreciate that. I’m glad you could match up your noise!
Thanks for the clear illustrations on bad wheel breading noise in cabin. Mine is a 2017 Subaru Legacy, it makes that similar noise driving on highway, most audible between 70-80 mph. I have 80k miles on the car. Great video!👍
You are welcome! Good luck finding the culprit. Try the shake and spin test in the video 😃
You are welcome! Good luck with your project. Did you get it all sorted out?
Thank you for this. The in-car noise in your video is the exact noise my car is making too, and this helps me determine my suspicions are correct in believing its wheel bearings. 175,000 Km's on my car, bearings have never been replaced. They will be now!
Awsome! I am glad you could match your sound up! That is probably one of most common type sound of bearings when they start making noise. Nice work figuring it all out 😀😀
Thank you for this, I've been having this noise for a while and I thought it was my wheels or tires. You cleared it up for me!
Glad it helped! Great job getting it fixed right away 😀
You really did help on mine noticing my bearing got problem and ready to replace it as soon as possible to prevent anything happens to me on the highway, thank you!!!
No problem. Glad to help. Great job getting it fixed right away 😀
Great video. The audio of the grinding is what I’ve been hearing on mine. No whining so I thought it was my axel.
Glad it helped 😃
THANKS SO MUCH watching your simple instructions based on your honest expertise, means that many of your female subscribers get to save ourselves from dishonest mechanical services attempting to rip us off for either overcharging or under performing and often downright bodgy mechanical work on our vehicles albeit cars,bikes, boats etc...
Thanks again..😊
No problem. Glad to help! That is the purpose of the video! I wanted to make something that helped identify the noise they may have or hear. Some options and general knowledge on how to fix it. Also the urgency to repair it for safest transportation 😀🔧
Hi EasyFix
i have been hearing the same voice in my car for two month and was trying to figure it out with some mechanics. no mechanics were helpful as all of them have told nothing about hub bearings. but now after watching your amazing video i realized the problem and decided to replace the rear bearings. i am very grateful to you. you are smart mechanical engineer
Thanks man! I’m glad it helped you out!! It should help put you on the right path to getting your vehicle fixed 😄
Mine broke today.
Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get it fixed fast😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun getting estimates. Everybody wants to rip me off.
@@KN-kp6mf Find one you trust 😉
Thank you Mrs. I got the same noise and was wondering what was it. Exactly same noise...thanks for the video
Awsome! Thanks a lot. I am glad it helped you match up the noise 😀
ETCG had a test several years ago . On a 1987 Chevy Celebrity , FWD , I put the floor jack under the control arm and ran it , one at a time raised up . I had the other three wheels chocked . I put in a BCA bearing over 50 K ago . I had a friend tell me " I would have changed both " . But there is nothing wrong with the other side . I will also use your method .
Fantastic! The shake and spin test by hand is the best test to do first because its fastest and easy and less intrusive to pinpoint one of the four bad bearings. Often you find two bearings bad. If that doesn't easily pinpoint it is time for "Plan B"- spin em and listen to them all. I prefer lifting to do this, and using a stethoscope to listen in to the bearings from the inside knuckle area at a mounting bolt for the wheel bearing or the knuckle itself. It is dangerous to do no matter how you do it unless using a "chassis ear". Chassis Ear solves all the dangerous aspects and makes it easy to spin all wheels and test all wheels on a simple test drive. Also, if all bearings aren't checked with both methods the loudest wheel bearing or a second bearing that is going bad can be easily missed. Let's be real most of us replacing wheel bearings are working on cars with higher mileage and having two wheels bearings failing is not uncommon in my experience. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen often enough that it is worth checking them all. Thank you for your comment! 😃🔧
I have driven my Audi s4 163,700 miles and one of the front bearings is making this sound. I described it like a propeller engine plane in my footwell lol. Thank you for the helpful tips
Great description! Make sure you do the shake and spin test at all wheels. I have had many I thought were drivers front and turned out the passenger front was bad or even a rear bearing! Bearing noise travels like crazy! 🎯
Thanks for this video they helped me to identify that my bearings was bad and I don’t understand why the check engine and the traction control and the low tire and the AbS was in in my car dash ,nobody can say that only this great mechanic 👨🔧,thanks for this helpful video god bless you!!!!!
No problem! Super glad I could help 😀
I was in shock today Couse I chance the 2 CV axle in my car and I drive to check how the was and my car star making a weird sound and the dash show me the tire pressure,ABS, traction control and Check engine ,I was really disappointed whit the Mechanic ,I ask him men what happened Did you touch something else in the car ,he answer no lol ,this video help me a lot to indentify where does dash message one from !!!! And my bearing is sounds very Loud
Cool man! Ya a noisy bearing should be replaced immediately and is a great place to start. It wouldn’t surprise me after replacement of any bad bearing some or all of your warning lamps will shut off on their own.
Thank you!! I wanted to make sure I wasn't getting taken advantage of by the Auto shop and they were right 🙂
Awsome! I’m glad it helped out 😀
You’re awesome, thanks for making this video. You’ve helped me diagnose my problem. Also, thank you for providing all those examples , many videos fail to give thorough explanations like you! Very knowledgeable.
God bless.
You are so welcome!
this is probably the best video I have seen to help me locate my problem.
Awesome! Thank you! I have a better one coming soon so please subscribe! 😃
I bought an 03 Z06 last fall. Three days after, the starter failed. Now, one of the wheel bearings is making noise. 😂 The tires were bad, I replaced them, thinking that was the noise, but the noise continued with new tires! Good video! I’ll lift it up and check for noise.
Oh wow! Yes- the Shake and Spin test at all four wheels should help you pin point the culprit 😀🔧
This video was what all informative car diagnostic videos should be like
Thanks! I really appreciate you 😃🔧
Thanks for this video you confirmed the roaring sounds coming from the front passenger side. I was thinking it ws the bearings my car is 7 years old now. Guess it's time to start replacing some parts now. First time changing out all my bulbs as well. God bless you!
No problem. I’m glad I could help! Nice job. Yup sounds like there’s a bearing replacement in your immediate future. Don’t forget to shake abs spin all the bearings to pinpoint the bad one. 😀🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Will do! Thanks! Have a great day!
You too. Happy new year! 🎉
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks! Happy New Year!
Great video. Could you make a video on the suspension components and how to tell if it’s good or bad.
Yup! Great suggestion. I will take me a bit but I will do that 😃🔧
Thank you for getting right to it. I don't understand "car talk" but I understand sounds and symptoms. This was great!
You are welcome. Glad to help 😃🔧
I just had my wheel bearing fixed. I went in because the breaks felt funny. So when the mechanic called and said besides the breaks it was the rear wheel bearing I honestly never heard the noise. But then again I mainly drive around the city. Which is a speed limit of 25-30. And music kinda of loud. I came to TH-cam to hear the noise. So thank you. Now I’m pretty sure I just got use to the noise.
That happens a lot. The mechanic did a great job sorting that out for you most likely! Wheel bearings don't present themselves as a sound sometimes and can be a loose symptom, which is sometimes never felt. They fail in crazy and scary ways sometimes. Great job getting it sorted out right away when something sounded or felt weird 😃🔧
Thank you so very much. This is so helpful. My 2006 Toyota Forerunner is doing this right now 😞 I cannot afford the repairs so I'm going to try to take a crack at it myself.
No problem I’m glad it helped out. Make sure you pinpoint the bad bearing with the “shake and spin test” 😃
I have been trying to find the exact sound my car makes and this is exactly what I was looking for! Now I know I’m not just hearing things thanks!!
No way! Awesome, I am glad it helped you 😀
Great video! Finally found a clear match up to the roaring noise I hear. The only thing with mine is that it literally only happens between 61 and 63mph. Before and after it's standard road noise. Will defo get it checked
That’s a weird band of speed for the bearing noise to only be heard. It’s possible. What year make and model vehicle do you have?
@@EasyFixShaun I did think that it was weird it only happened at that speed. It's constant in tone also-it doesn't get louder or quieter just a loud roar between 61-63 and normal road noise before or after. It's a 2016 opel astra.
Thanks for the reply!
Ok. Well as long as the tires aren’t feathered on your opal, I would say the bearing is the most likely culprit. Especially if it’s making the same metallic noise like the video. When they first start to go bad they will be heard only at a certain speed. The noise is everywhere. But for whatever reason it’s only audible at a certain range at first sometimes. You must have sensitive ears! Haha. The next step, I would do the shake and spin test like in the video. Look and listen, if you find anything abnormal or different from a wheel compared to the other three. Hopefully you can pinpoint the problem area. 😃
i enjoyed your videos.ive been a mechanic for over 40 yrs myself.your very good at what you do.keep up the good work..al
Thanks, will do! 😃😃
This is exactly the noise that I’m hearing on my Toyota Avalon ! Thank you for this video, now I know for sure that it’s my wheel bearing that’s making that rumbling noise. I mainly hear it at 30mph and then it goes away but you can hear that high pitch noise at higher speeds, like you were talking about. Once again, thank you 👍🏼
Great to hear! Glad to help! The Shake N Spin test in the video should pinpoint it no problem if you are doing it yourself, or a shop 😃
Sounds good! I’ll be trying that out this weekend!
Let me know how it goes! Usually if you do it at all 4 wheels the bad one will jump out at you.
Sounds good man, I will! I saw on another video, from the car car nut, that if you hold onto the strut and spin the wheel, it will tend to vibrate and that you’ll feel the difference. I don’t if this only applies to Toyota vehicles but just wanted to let you know, In case you ever run into a Toyota with a bad wheel bearing again. 👍🏼
@@EasyFixShaun UPDATE: what’s up Shaun! I replaced the bearing (Front left), and most of the sound went away, I can still hear a whirring sound though. Should bearings be replaced in pairs? I’m assuming the other side of the car is where the noise coming from, although when I do the spin test it sounds fine. (Front right). Also, can a bad cv axle make a similar whirring noise too? Thanks, any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
You know a wheel bearing is on its way out , it starts sounding like the wife
165hz-255hz?
Oh damn so true!
Whiny?
Wow, Chris Fix will be asking you for a few video tips now. Spot on. You're so right about how long they last too. Only did a rear wheel change twelve months ago, and here's me changing it in the early days of winter proper. SKF/Timken mix this time round though.
Haha! Thanks a lot. Bummer you gotta replace your bearing again. I’ve been there for sure. Thanks for kind comments 😀
@@EasyFixShaun whilst under there I could hear the diff in its death throws, so I threw in a diff swap at the same time. Happy Christmas on my back in the December rain! 😁😁
Sorry about your luck. Dress warm. Get r done. Hopefully your ride will last a while longer for you. 😀
Great advice on all this. I had terrible noise in an old Supra. I tried the left rear, lots of noise but bearing in perfect shape! I tried the right, still noisy so I disconnected the axle. Less noise! So, I ran it with NO axles, raucous noise from center. I removed drive shaft and felt diff with hand. It was not smooth but hard to make 'noise' from hand spin. I replaced with other diff and returned driveshaft, noise seems to have gone way. Now rebuild diff.
Right on, Sometimes its hard to track them down for sure. Nice work! 😃🔧
Thanks for the video!
I took my car to the mechanic to change the hub and bearing when I started hearing the sound and when they gave it back to me the same sound was there, and I told them and they just told me to bring it back again.
Yup!
Thats a bummer. Sometimes there are multiple bearings bad. Super common but not ideal. Sometimes you can hear the worst one and not the other one that is also bad. Process of elimination type thing. Stick with it and take it back. Go through the motions until
Its perfect. You could also ride with the mechanic to help show them the sound you are hearing. That will help confirm for them the sound you want tracked down on the second attempt 😀🔧
Would you recommend replacing both wheel bearings such as Front Left/right if one goes bad or only the one? Thank you. Great video.
Thanks! I usually only do the one that is bad. But if you want to you can replace both. Especially if you have a trip coming up and you do your own work. You can save some money. Most times my people only want the bad parts replaced. If it were brakes, you always replace that stuff in pairs. Bearings you can go either way. On my own ride I usually only do the bad one. But one particular repair I did do both because the vehicle had 250k on it. If you want to save time, doing them both it’s not a horrible idea. That’s the long answer. Sorry I can’t just say yes or no 😀. It’s whatever works for you that will be best, as long as you at least replace the bad one. 🙂
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for your help
You betcha!
You rock! Exactly what my 2010 Forrester with 254,000 has. Like a deck of cards on a kids bike.
Haha! Awsome. I’m glad it helped you identify your noise 😀
Great video! It's very well explained and I had this problem just a couple minutes ago, the front right tire started roaring so we came to a stop and had no idea what it was but now I know what it is. Again good video and thank you
Glad to help! Fix ASAP😀🔧
excellent work!
Very well explained I just changed my wheels only to realize the nose is now louder. Thanks now I know what to do
No problem. Glad it helped! 😃🔧
I 100% have a bad wheel bearing confirmed via the shakedown test. and mine sounds worse than yours. Its very loud. Just to be sure, I compared with other wheels that had zero play. But Im really digging your videos showing how the bearings can be replaced without having to remove the knuckle and use a press. I've done this before. And it was a major PIA. I plan on following your techniques using the bearing kit along with hub puller and slide hammer to get mine fixed. So tired of that noise. For the longest time I thought it was due to old unbalanced tires. Replaced all 4. Now on to fix this !
Excellent work! Thank you! Glad to help out 😀. I love the on car press. I haven't done it any other way in well over a decade. Far superior method for me. I still
Have my press on backup bet i just never use it. Good luck with your project 😀
I drove a car with bad wheel bearings for years. I had an anxiety/panic attack. When looking deep into what was making me fearful, one of my fears was driving my truck everyday to work. I never took care of it due to money problems and being irresponsible.
But i know God was looking out for me all that time. I know driving that vehicle was extremely dangerous . My car is getting fixed today at the shop and i will never drive or be irresponsible with my life again
Super dangerous. I am glad you are getting it fixed 😃😃
And with others' lives also.
🎯💯 Scary. I would never recommend do this. People loose their lives on the road for many reasons, and broken equipment is one of them 😢
I knew it. think its my rear. good work with sounds in the car. how come the other wheel spins opposite from each other? confused.
Do you mean like on the drive axle front or rear?
Easy Fix when you spin the wheel i can see the other wheel spinning in the opposite direction. confused.
Ok, ya anytime you spin a drive axle (front or rear) the oposite side will likely spin the opposite way because of how differentials work. If you have a "locker" in the differential then that will cause the tires on that drive axle to spin the same direction. This old school video is awesome on explaining how a differential works if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/yYAw79386WI/w-d-xo.html
It is awesome, I have watched it a couple of times. It is from 1937! Check it out! 😀
Very underrated channel. Deserves way more views. Keep up the great work!
Much appreciated! 😃🔧
Good video. I would like to add another fairly simple symptom that might help to locate a bad bearing. I have a Chevy Aveo that originally would wander side to side. At first I thought the rear tire on the opposite side was the culprit as it was leaking air. Fixed that, and the side to side movement was much improved. But I still would hear an intermittent noise at 70 to 80mph, and the car would pull to the left side. It was worse on warmer days. Checking tire pressures after a 20 minute drive, I discovered there was a lot of heat pouring from the left front. It could've been the brake hanging, but the wheel spun okay. Only thing left was the bearing. The shake test didn't indicate any looseness, and the car was fine at speeds below 60 or so mph. At 115,000 miles, and being an entry level car, the bearings are bound to be at the end of their service life. I didn't notice any growl, but the exhaust has a leak, and the engine is turning at 3100 rpm or more, so it would have drowned out any constant bearing noise. I believe the bearing was in the early stage of failing, so slowing to less than 70 mph allowed it to cool enough for the symptoms to disappear. Obviously, had I continued driving it with the old bearing, it would have gotten worse, and eventually seized.
Yes there are more rare bearing symptoms that are hard to catch or more difficult to catch were the bearings all need to be monitored at vehicle speed on the road. The Chassis Ear is the easiest solution for these bearings. Links in the description below if you need to see what one looks like and cost. They are vital for the 1-3% of bearing failures that are impossible to catch while inspecting with all four wheels off the ground. Sorry you had one of these. The reason some of these bearings fall outside a normal bearing diagnosis is bearing construction materials, bearing style and design, vehicle weight and design. Some vehicles are characteristically way more difficult and always hard to diagnose. It seems like it is more random in my experience when it happens. Thankfully it is pretty rare. If it was more common the Chassis ear would need to be used much more, which isn't a problem. It is just an extra step and not quick and easy like the shake and spin test. Sorry you had trouble. I am glad you stuck with it and found the problem 😃🔧
Money saver!!! Being a female with zero knowledge of mechanics this helps me go to a mechanic and tell them exactly what's wrong without them telling me otherwise!
Thank you! I am so glad to help you out 😃🔧
Thanks. I will do the shake and spin test once I get the chance.
It's either a bad bearing or a toy airplane is following me around when I drive at +40MPH lol.
haha! it could be a drone 🤓
Could also have something to do with your driveline or differential. Depends on what kind of vehicle you have.
Great video. I'm starting to hear this noise on my 2013 Nissan Altima with 76k miles. Kind of hard to believe it would be a wheel bearing so soon, but I will do this test to confirm. Could also be my tires as they are getting close to the wear bars and are cracked and dry rotted.
Thanks! Ya tires can make some similiar noises if they get feathered bad enough. When you spin test on the hoist and check for play, it eliminates the tire noise from the equation and helps to pinpoint a bearing. So hopefully that will help!
Honestly this guy is awesome !
No you are awesome! 😃
Excellent video. My father has the same exact car and we just drove from NJ to Georgia and back and I could hear it the whole way. Of course he was like “I don’t hear anything!”
Thanks! I am really glad you didn't have a catastrophic failure. Long distance at high speed is the most likely condition for that to happen. I hope you figure out the cause and repair it right away 😀🔧
This was an amazing video. It is so hard to find an informative video on wheel bearings. And I struggle to identify car problems but your video helped a ton. thank you
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. You are most welcome 😃😃
If the INNER race of the bearing is damaged, you will hear a clunk with each wheel revolution. OUTER race damage will produce a constant roaring sound.
Doesn't quite work that way😀🔧
@Non-Stick Pan Good point. If the wheel bearing is clunking or roaring it needs replacement. I have never really heard a clunking noise though😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I think he's confused wheel bearing with CV joints.
@@michael00collins Possible for sure. One thing I know with certainty is that when shifting side to side, if the noise changes a bad wheel bearing has been confirmed. It however does not confirm bad bearing location. The shake and spin test in the video helps locate the bad bearing. There are other methods also such as a stethoscope or a chassis ear 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun well I have bearing noise. Doesn’t seem to be excessive play in any of the wheels. And it’s constant above 15mph doesn’t matter where I put weight it’s always making noise
My driver's side front wheel bearing started acting up at 156,000 miles on my 2006 Highlander. I'm replacing both front bearings so I don't have to worry about the other one going out anytime soon.
Smart! Ya with that many miles, You might as well get them both done. Otherwise its a gamble on the other bearing. It served it purpose, that's good mileage 🔧😃
Toy had hole in drive boot. My original rf bearing on Cadillac went at 238k.
Wow that is awsome for a Cadilac! 😀
Would a bad wheel bearing make a grinding noise especially when making left hand turns.
Yes, it could be a bad bearing. It is very common for noise to be louder when turning slightly to one direction or the other. The noise would be quieter in the opposite direction. I would say you most likely have a bad wheel bearing. The next step, shake and spin all the wheels like in the video to get a visual and listen to the wheel bearings. Usually this will pinpoint the bad bearing for me easily. Make sure you do all four wheels. Bad wheel bearings tend to send the noise where it is not. You could hear the noise in front, but end up finding a bad bearing in the rear. Or you think the bad one is on the left, when its actually on the right. I am right about 1/2 the time. Try it out and report back if you have any luck! 😃
Finally found a video that pinpointed the noise from my 2010 Highlander. Now to search on how to replace a bearing. I’m sure I will need to rent a pulling tool or something of that nature. Thank you!
Glad it helped!! 😃
Press-In video for your front press-in style bearings: th-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/w-d-xo.html
Bolt-In video for your rear bolt-in style bearings: th-cam.com/video/ydneeMsNMOA/w-d-xo.html
156K miles on a 2012 Subaru Forester. Mostly highway miles, very little offroad, minimal snow in Kansas.
Excellent mileage 😀. Did you need the shocker to get them out because of rust?
To determine if the bad bearing is left or right drive along a flat wall with window open. The sound will bounce back.
True. Drive through fast food can sometimes help 😀
Excellent Thanks. Is it better to replace in pairs?
I never replace in pairs. I replace the just the defective bearing. You could replace both if you want, It wouldn't hurt anything. Especially if you have a lot of miles on your vehicle. But usually it isn't necessary 😀
Great Tutorial. Thanks! The right rear wheel bearing on my 2014 Subaru Forester went bad at 81k miles. It spent its first 4 winters in Massachusetts and the mating surfaces between the wheel hub and the knuckle were rusty and it was REALLY hard to remove. Your video on the Hub Shocker pushed me over the edge and I'm ordering one for next time. I used a MOOG replacement wheel hub and the hum disappeared, but unfortunately, after 17,000 miles it started humming again. MOOG was great about replacing it under warranty (just had to ship the bad one back to them) and so I put the second MOOG in at 98k. Again the hum disappeared, but around 125k I started hearing the hum (that's 27,000 miles on the 2nd one until it started humming.) I've put it off and it has gotten louder and finally now at 136k, I'm getting around to replacing. Free or not, I didn't want to keep replacing the same wheel bearing, so I went to Subaru for my next one. I'm waiting for the Hub Shocker to arrive before I put it in. I got the MOOG bearing for $107. I got the Subaru OEM for $155 on-line and picked up at my local dealer. I'm not trying to bash MOOG, just sharing the experience I had. All of the suspension components on that wheel seem fine and I can't imagine anything that would be causing only the right rear wheel bearing to fail.
Thanks for the comment! I would be you are right and you have a bad bearing again. Subaru rear bearings are having a lot of problems. Moog has gone downhill for a half decade now. I have seen the same thing. Check out everything while you are replacing the bearing and perform the shake and spin test like in the video before and after your bearing replacement to be sure its fixed. That should help locate any other loose parts. Did you see hub shocker 2.0 video? I solved mounting issues and bearing seperation issues for your next replacement. The tool is amazing! 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for your quick feedback. I did see your hub shocker 2.0 review (nice job btw) and I have one on its way to me. I was leaning toward getting one, but your video is what pushed me over the edge. $95 on Amazon and free shipping. About using the MOOG wheel hub - I've gone with aftermarket parts for just about everything for the cost savings and this is the first time they've let me down. Yesterday, I put a Cardone front CV axle in the Forester. It was $52 at RockAuto compared to $399 (no typo - really $399 for just the part) for the OEM Subaru axle online and even more in person.
I agree aftermarket is usually ok. But there’s major quality issues with some stuff. So I usually try em once and then never again if burned. The subbie shafts are expensive but worth it. The cheap axles are nice. But it seems like they have a three year time limit max. So if you are keeping the car it can be worth the 399. The subbie shafts never go bad unless the boots tear abs let water in. I’m glad you got the tool! Let me know how it works for you?
@@EasyFixShaun Update...I could tell the bad bearing was in back from my driving test and it *seemed* like it was the right rear again (which was the 2nd MOOG with 38k miles.) But on closer inspection (using the recommendations in this video) I realized it was the LEFT rear hub that was original and had 136k miles. So RR original lasted 81k, LR original lasted 125k and finally replaced yesterday at 136k. The first MOOG replacement lasted only 17k, but MOOG replaced it for free and the 2nd one is actually still fine after 38k (so not as much of a knock on MOOG as I originally posted.) I used the Hub Shocker 2.0 that you recommend in a different video and it was a GAME CHANGER!! A few notes on that... 1) It is key to remove the ABS sensor, 2) I had the car on jack stands and I used a jack to brace underneath the knuckle at a control arm so the force wasn't absorbed by the suspension and 3) I was nervous about having the axle nut on - (I just replaced the RF CV axle and don't want to put any unnecessary force on the axle joints - probably being overly conservative) so I left it off. With the hub shocker rotated to the top, the hub bearing didn't try to separate - so it worked without having the nut on. I had to smack the hub shocker pretty hard with an 8 lb hammer like in your video, but it was 1000 times easier than the way I did the previous one.
@@jeffwatson2915 Nice Job Jeff. You did it perfectly! A+ 😊
My 2008 Lexus IS250 had brand new brakes put on and I sometimes hear that normal break sounds you pointed out. I initially thought I had bad bearings but my car is quiet , drives normally with no Loud cabin noise. So basically I worried over nothing assuming it was bad wheel bearings. This video showed me that the symptoms would be far worse than just the normal brake sounds I hear.
If you have a bad wheel bearing while driving generally the first symptom you will notice will be the sound if the bearing.
Super helpful! Without having done the shake or spin test, I am already 90% sure based on the "whomping" from your driving video that this is my problem... 😅
Glad it was helpful! 😃🔧
Great video! Thanks! Couple questions... Did you notice any type of burning rubber type smell? Possible the grease burning up? Or, would the bad wheel bearing get hot enough to make the disc hot? The right rear disc (which I’m pretty sure is the wheel with the bad bearing), is just as hot as the front two. The left rear is about 75% cooler. Thanks for any insight you can give me.
Glad you liked it! I would shake and spin each wheel to start with. You might find a stuck caliper in the rear as well as a bad wheel bearing. It sounds like possible the brake is hung up and dragging creating the heat. Could be a bad caliper or bracket pin. Or a stuck pad. Or a bad hose. Something is causing the brake on that wheel to not release properly. I don’t usually experience any burning rubber smell with bad wheel bearings. I suppose it could happen. I can’t think of a time that has ever happened. I would start with a shake and spin. If you can not spin that wheel because the brakes are hung up, you may have two problems.
Am also experiencing the burning rubber smell, my mechanic says its just the bearing...I changed my bearings 3months ago now this again..got any advice?
If it smells like rubber i would start by checking your tires pressures. If that is ok check your tire treads. Make sure there isn't any feathering. The alignment could be off from worn, bent, or broken parts that you don't know about. That could create a slight tire smell from tread wear. Although not a super common symptom. But if you noticed it, it has to be coming from somewhere. So basically keep starting over at square one until you find the problem. Eventually you will catch the problem. There could have been multiple problems going on this whole time that were not caught. Sometimes they don't jump out at you, and require several tries. If a bearing was bad it's a great place to start. Process of elimination... 😀🔧
Great video. Detailed, step by step, and easy to follow.
Much appreciated 😃😃
Thank you on the advice, unfortunately I replaced all 4 wheels and tires, everything is tight up front, was told it was a bent axle, but replaced that and no difference, also corrected pinion angle with no change. Maybe it’s nothing but my rear view mirror gets slightly blurry with this slight vibration, the driveline is smooth at 80, if it wasn’t I’d feel the vibration by holding the transmission shifter, which as you know sits right on top of the transmission
Sorry about that. It sucks when you can not find the problem. Did you perform the "shake and spin test" in the video? Everything tight on the steering suspension? If so, anytime that happens for me I start back at square one and repeat my diagnosis. It sounds as if something spinning is causing your problem without a doubt. Some noise vibration and harshness issues are an extreme pain because there are so many components that spin. Many of those parts, problems can not be seen easily. Like inside of a cv axle boot, or inside of a tire if a belt is shifted and causing a pull or something. I would start over by spinning all components and do a visual test to start eliminating each component one by one. It is possible a rim could be bent or the hub mount has rust under a rotor or something and the spinning surface is not true. I have had both of the issues send me on a wild goose chase. Just spitballing some more ideas for you. Sounds like you have a hard problem to diagnoses. Keep working at it and put the time in. Work your way through it. You will find it 😃🔧🔧
Thank you! I will get back when I finally resolve this, I’ve driven the jeep on a 200 mile trip yesterday and honestly it’s livable but just know it’s not right.
I had a wrangler with 33s, it started vibrating over time. Rotating the tires resolved the issue.
Thank you so much it was so useful I am an apprentice mechanic and I need these types of videos to increase my knowledge.
Please keep doing more of diagnostic parts with test drives and more.
Really appreciate it.
Thank you glad to help! 😃
@EasyFixShaun can you do video for axles and ball joints especially how to replace upper and lower ball joints
@@ahmadhasibmskinyar5474 Yup I work on that for you! Might be a while. But I will get it done. Thank you for the suggestion 😃
This is the video i was looking for. When i drive slow my car doesn’t produce noise. But when i drive faster at around 40-50 km/hr, it felt as if I am inside an aeroplane. The guys at the workshop told me it was due to worn out disk(I drive manual) but this video makes me believe that the noise is due to faulty wheel bearing. Thank you so much.
Excellent! Glad to help. I think most likely you have a bad wheel bearing. They are a wear item and it is very common for one to go bad after years of wear and tear 😀🔧
The "shake and spin" test will eliminate your tires and clutch and tell you if one is obviously bad. I recommend checking all 4 wheels. Even if you can not hear the noise going slow, most times the test will expose noise when testing. Just compare all wheels and if you find one that stands out louder than the others, you have found a problem! 😀🔧
My problem was that when I was trying to accelerate my Mercedes-Benz, I was getting the sensation that the car was exhausted ( like it couldn't handle the increase of speed) and making this sound like the one you describe. My shop told me the emergency parking brake actuator was bad and front wheel bearings. They fixed the actuator, not yet the bearing, now the car can accelerate but the humming sound is still there ( I will take it to a regular shop to replace, the dealer is too expensive). My question is, how likely is that both things broke at the same time? I thought the sound started when I couldn't accelerate the car. Thanks, u r great.
Hi Susan! It's hard to say if both repairs were needed at the same time. If the car is older and has high mileage I would say the likely hood of the that happening increases. I wouldn't think one caused the other unless the bad bearing and bad brake actuator are on the same wheel. If they are on the same wheel, Its possible one problem caused the other or caused a questionable bearing to go bad after the actuator froze. Does that make sense. It's hard to say. Hopefully once the bearing is fixed it will drive great for you. 😃
Thanks for the video, verry professional
No problem, thank you!
I dont like how a clear blue pregnancy test advert came on for my adverts haha 😂 I just wanted to know about Wheel Bearings 🤣
Targeted advertising. I get car care products advertised to me all day long. I hope i helped out with your wheel bearing problems 😃
Probably because you are a woman
I explained this to my mechanic for weeks and changed few mechanic idk why they dont understand this noise. Can you explain how we know its right side wheel or left side wheel ? By the way great video. And thanks for explaining
Once you identify you need a wheel bearing, try to reproduce the noise in the air and pinpoint the culprit. I use the "shake and spin test" in the video to pinpoint most obviously bad wheel bearings. Let me know if that helps 😀🔧
That's exactly the sound I'm hearing underneath on my driver side.. mechanic can't find that stupid noise..
They even removed all the dashboards and tied a lot of things..nothing happened...
Now,I know where to start..
Thank you for the excellent presentation...
I even described it as an electrical noise..
However, they were the same sound
Excellent! I am so glad it was helpful. Good luck with your project 😃😃
Great video! Very clear. The info about check engine and traction control lights going on was an eye opener. This had been happening intermittently and driving me crazy. I could not figure it out. Thanks! You have a new subscriber.
Thank you. Glad to help!! Wheel bearings can be a little mysterious sometimes. Make sure you perform the shake and spin test in the video right away. When the abs lamp goes off usually the bearings are already very very loose and dangerous. 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun really bad front drivers side and not so bad front passenger side. Replacing now. Thanks again. Why would the check engine light come on and what code would it throw?
Great job fixing immediately! Usually the check engine lamp is just a mirror of the abs lamp cord that are on. Both computers are connected so they both will show the same code sometimes. Need to check to be sure though 😀🔧
Excellent I am glad you got it all sorted out 😃
Hey Shaun...glad to see you're still creating in these crazy times! I've been chasing bad front hubs/bearings in my Nissan TItan (with videos) for a few years now. Been through 2x Moogs, 1x SKF and now Nissan-installed OEMs. They just keep going out. No binding in the transaxle, but I'm thinking something is wrong with the front diff causing the issue. At a loss, but at least it's still under warranty so I can go back and complain about the terrible diagnosing they did at the dealer... Keep up the good work bro!
Thanks man! Ya that is weird they are going bad like that. I don't know what the issue is with those. Typically the Japanese manufacturers don't undersize things like that. They usually go for durability. So the bearings should be decent but for some reason they are not. You aren't the only one with bearing problems with your nissan. Hang in there! Good to hear from you. 😀
Use Timken bearings
Yup. I cant even recall a timken bearing going bad. I know they go bad. But compared to all other brands- They last forever.
SKF used to be the highest quality but honestly not anymore sadly. I find original bearings are made to last, replacements are made to be replaced. Simple as. If you can take some off a junkyard original that's a 50/50 chance of being the best quality/already shot lmao
axle nut torque?
I've got nearly 200,000 miles on my car and am hearing a loud humming sound or lots of road noise. The noise comes and goes. No play in my tires. But my rear tires wear really fast on the outer side
What year make model?
Watching you drive on ice brought back bad experiences in driving in Montana, but very helpful video thanks!
No problem! We hover around the 32 degree mark where I live. Lots of black ice, freezing and thawing. Winters are no fun 😃
Holy heck. I have a bad wheel bearing and I have noticed my abs sensor has been going off like an indicator, honestly I thought I had to pay more. I think you have just saved me almost $300. I thank you immensely
No problem! Glad to help! Get it fixed asap. A lot of times when the abs light has come on it can be from the bearing getting loose. 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun booked in friday
@@EasyFixShaun do you think if my abs light is not on the. My wheel bearing doesn't need replaced?
The abs light doesn't always come on for every bad wheel bearing. Its a good indicator if it is on though. If you hear wheel bearing noise and the abs lamp is on- i would say you have two solid bad wheel bearing symptoms. But if wither one pops up- check the wheel bearings out asap.
The noise I’m hearing from my drivers side wheel is a high pitched whine. Its worse during the cold, but after a few minutes it’ll go away. Is that a bearing?
Hard to say exactly. I would suspect a bearing or brake concern. I would next perform the shake and spin test from the video to try to pinpoint the problem. 😀🔧🔧
Excellent quality video and explanation!! Thank you!
I really appreciate the kind words. Thank you so much. I hope it helped you out! 😃
I replaced a bearing today and to my dismay it wasn't the one making the noise.
I did the shakedown and spin tests on all the wheels and there really wasn't a noticeable difference between any of them. How can I distinguish which bearing is bad?
The next thing I will use is a chassis ear to locate hard to find bearings. I also will use a stethoscope and listen to spinning bearings while the vehicle is spinning the wheels on the hoist to locate bearing noise. The stethoscope method works for me quite well. But it is dangerous for obvious reasons. So I do not really recommend it.
Good vid. In all seriousness this was very helpful. Had a front bearing replaced just from knowing what was starting to get bad.
Great to hear! Confirming the type of sound symptom you have is a huge step in the repair process. Nice work!😀
My volvo from 2005 is shy of 190,000km purchased from 1st owner 1 year ago. It sat 4-5 years and I’ve now basically replaced the whole front suspension besides the inner tie rod and knuckle
oh wow! Nice work 😃
How can you tell if it’s a bearing or the rear differential? Also, my rear wheels (both) seem really hard to spin. Brakes are new and calibers are not stuck etc.
Good question. There different ways to check for bad bearings with varying degrees of danger involved. The noise is from something spinning. So it could always be a differential. But...always check the most obvious source first. The wheel bearings are the most likely to fail. They are a wear item, they are greased from the factory and are never re-greased or serviced until failure. The rear differential bearings are the same basic type of bearing except a little bigger and are bathed in a constant bath of lubricating differential oil. So they are much less likely to fail. They do fail, don’t get me wrong. But the most likely failure will always us be the wheel bearings. So check those first. I’m not sure why your wheels spin hard. You may need to track that down first so you can spin check them. If after performing the shake and spin test on all wheels I still can’t pinpoint the problem....I will spin the tires with the engine and a helper. I will listen to all wheel bearings and differential bearings to find the culprit. It is an advanced technique that has more danger involved because I am under the vehicle on a hoist with it running and everything spinning. The safest way to test and the best way to learn, get a chassis ear. They are electronic and have little microphones to clip on all the components you think could be bad. Then you just go for a test drive and listen through the device. Some models even have bluetooth and use the audio system in the car. They are pretty awsome. I hope this helps. 😀
The sound I’m hearing is identical to the sound of the bike wheel before you put the card in it.
Louder and faster as the car accelerates, coming from the front right passenger.
Could it still be a bearing?
Yup. Very suspect for a wheel bearing. To pinpoint point it the next step is the "shake and spin test" from the video. That exposes most wheel bearings that are bad easily 😀🔧🔧
2:57 my honda pilot has the same weird wiggling tire sound.
Track that wiggle down. If it does it on both the y and x axis its almost always the bearing. Track it down though, you want to see where the movement is coming from to be sure. Sometimes a helper is the best way to located the movement. Sometimes I can spot it myself. Ask someone to help if you need it 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun i try to tell him to fix it but he wants to break his car i guess
250,000 miles on my 05 Vue 2.2 liter FWD 5 speed manual. The roar has gotten more pronounced on the rear wheels in the last year. With the long range drives I make, no wheel separation here please. It’s on the to do list for tomorrow.
Excellent! Good luck I hope you find your problem 😃🔧
I have a 2009 Subaru Forester that I've driven hard, but not really as an off roader . . . just hard on lots of secondary roads in the mountains. Total of 255,000 miles. I just replaced my right rear bearing (at a mechanic's shop!!), and I'm getting ready to do my front left myself. The right rear was pretty shaky but the front left just needs to be done as preventative maintenance.
Nice!! Well done! Your fronts are much more "Normal" to repair. A hammer should be all that is needed to remove it. The rears can be "off the charts badly stuck" and usually need to be forced out in some fashion other than a hammer for quickest and best results. I like the shocker method. SMA uses grade 8 bolts. Either method is fantastic if you ever need to prevent repair your other rear bearing. Here's a link to the shocker video i made if you ever need it 😃⚡️
th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html