This video saved me from a perpetual headache as it turned out, my 09 Nissan Murano had the exact same problem. Unplugged that MAF sensor connector, wiggled the wires here and there, plugged it back in, cleared the error code. And crazy RPMs and bad fuel economy went away. Need a permanent fix for the wiring but thank you so much for this video!!!
I had an issue where my Murano was running rough and bucking severely, especially on hills. After replacing the MAF sensor, the problem persisted. A thorough search revealed the intake tube to the throttle body (accordion-looking thing) was cracked on the backside in two places, which was completely hidden from view. I replaced that piece for around $80 and now the car runs beautifully again. What a relief. Hoping this will help someone in the SW where drying/cracking rubber is common after a few years of use.
We had the exact same issue. How embarrassing was it (with an Uber passenger) trying to accelerate after a traffic light with a bad case of the put puts. My quick fix was heat resistant tape over the nasty cracks you mentioned until my part was delivered. I was so amazed with the tape that I threw the replacement part in the trunk and drove on the tape for close to a year.
When you went to the test drive I had already concluded it was a vac leak, based on the improvement at WOT, and I had already decided you needed to smoke the intake. I wondered why you would do a test drive, where heat could destroy evidence of the leak. To my humble surprise, watching further, the MAF was giving strange readings and the improvement with WOT was not repeated on a second study. Good for you, to collect more info before jumping to conclusions.
Actually I picked up the vehicle from the customer at her workplace down the street from my shop. So I had to drive it back. I guess it worked in my favor. Thanks for watching!
You are definitely one of the best technicians I've seen. Your diagnostic process is very thorough and thought out. I definitely learn alot from watching your videos. I was immediately assuming a vacuum leak and would have wasted an hour smoke testing the system to get nowhere. Very well done!
Thanks for sharing this . I appreciate your passion (generosity to help us viewers around the world trying to find answers) and your skill - mastery in the trade and effective communication-education personality style .
Dude, congratulations! One of the best channel's about cars maintenance I have watched. You showed to me that I still have A LOT to learning. Thank you
As always clear explanation on trouble shooting from the data on the Maxisys to the actual problem which was a break in the signal wire. Great job Eric and Thank you for the video.
This right here is a perfect example of why older technicians don't wanna do diagnostic work because back in their Hey day their golden days it was about 30 minutes to an hour to diagnose and maybe 15 to 40 hours to repair for example an engine knock 2 or 3 minutes to confirm and then 20 hours to do an overhaul depending on the type of engine or maybe 20 hours overhaul time yankit rebuild it get it back and get it running out the door. Great video illustrating the need for scan tool and O scope to confirm readings excellent video demonstrating the use of 2 different devices to get to one answer
I am soooo glad I found this channel. I live up in Spring and FINALLY have a shop that I have confidence in that I can take my cars to. I always watch Eric Os SMA channel with a pang of jealousy - why can't I have a shop like that near me? Well, now i know that I do. I am almost looking forward to my next vehicle challenge beyond my capabilities just so I can visit you guys!
Best information video I have seen. This guy is great. He is speaking to mechanics though. Luckily, I am a pretty good mechanic but don’t have the diagnostic tools he has. Ordered one though and will be here next week.
Wow, you are one of the best I've ever watched. Thank you so much for caring enough to share. And I'm glad you (Unofficially) demo-ed the Snap-On Soldering tool. I'll stick with my old one~
You are Automan. Like Batman, you have all kinds of wonderful tools. ( and know how to use them.) Good video! I have no such issues but just got a 2009 SL
Great job. Im sure an autozone employee would have sold her a maf and oxygen sensors😂 ..typical snapon garbage lol. I have the same PP butane and its never let me down 💪
It’s definitely good information for us for me to thank you very much thank you for your time And thank you for teaching us thank you for teaching me👀🌿 God bless you
nice job Eric loved it way to check that wiring before putting a part on it. Butane soldering torches to me are bothersome in cold weather i noticed. MILWAUKIE has a lithiom ion battery powered soldering torch 140 DOLLARS HOME DEPOT all the best
great video and nicely done, just one thing can you please just talk in the videos and not shout the audio comes through badly. other than that nice find and diagnosis.
True. But this one was not really consistent and it was going lean during driving. That made me believe something else was happening. Thanks for watching!
Great detective work. Did you happen to take your wire strippers and go down the bad wire that you cut off to find the break?...was it right at the bend where it was attached to the car?
I keep getting those same codes and have already replaced everything obvious to replace. My car doesn’t stall or anything but the check engine light will come on after a few days of driving it or letting it sit for a while but will continue to drive smoothly. I don’t have all the computers and tools that you have to be able to check everything in depth like that, do you think it could still be a wire that’s starting to have a bad connection? Like a lesser worn cable than the car you worked on?
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Using it right now. To install new head unit in Volvo..And Fix a Ford Driver side power window controls. Someone cut every wire trying to get the window. I use a NOCO GB40 to give me hours of portable use. Works great for Vehicles.
Great video. I have a 2006 Murano SV with only 155,000 miles, no engine light on, everything is good except when stoped and I step on the gas, the car doesn't seem to go but studder and doesn't seem to go fast. Then after a few seconds, it starts to run smoother. Any suggestions or ideas where to check?
I have the same issue on a 2012 Murano. I have code P0101. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Gonna drive the car for a couple days to see if the check engine light goes away...
Is there a step by step process to relearn the Thrttole Idle without the scan tool?. I have a 2015 Nissan Rogue with push start button and daytime running lights. I need to clean my throttle body but can't get a step by step procedure for relearning the throttle body idle without a scan tool. Thanks in advance and great video 😊
Dangers of your choice Euro flashlight LED on your cell phone was on the whole time creating extra glare outside of what was in the background behind you! I'm surprised you didn't see it cuz it was clear to see from our point of view that your LED was on shining in the plexiglass on your instrument,!? Also I've used one of those butane powered soldering irons since the 80s that I have had in my toe case and it is it is lit by piezoelectric inside you can use a regular hand lighter to light it but obviously it's defective the piezoelectric part is not lighting or igniting the gas
Hey Erric, am Carlos. Am NOT a auto-tech. Anyway, I have a 2018 Nissan Maxima Platinum with just under (20000) miles on it. I notice whenever am backing up, I hear a subtle, but noticeable knocking sound around driver side front wheel area. Now this is my 5th Maxima and I noticed this sound in the last two previous cars. I brought it to Nissan, the tech agent came and heard, but still am hearing the sound. What do you think?
I'm not sure if you can PM I am having some intermittent electrical issues. One- when I'm at idle my lights will flash while my RMPs jump from about 600 to 1000. Engine revs on own. Replaced alternator 1.5 yr ago. Mass air flow sensor 2.5 yrs ago.
Snap on is now getting its tools thru China ..they use to be top dog ..now there what a dog leaves for you to step on !...great video Brother thanks for sharing
Yeah. My dealer had to send it to get repaired. Now I have to wait 2 weeks to get it back. I've spent thousands with them and always feel like I'm not getting my monies worth. Anyways, thanks for watching!
Well done Eric. The Murano lives to drive another day. Nice diagnosis and repair. Did you have the gas control set to maximum when trying to ignite? Same as a gas bbq. need a lot of gas flow on ignition then adjust back to the required setting. If still no luck get the money back on the strap on and grab a Milwaukee m12 iron. They are fantastic.
Where are you from ? I need you too work on my 2005 nissa murano , know body can figure out the problem. I spent so much money . and was going see if you can give my murano a try .
Why does my car experience surges when idling? I recently had my ignition coils, spark plugs, and air filter replaced, and I've noticed a slight surging sensation, even though the RPM doesn't fluctuate. No codes
I got a 2004 nissan morano when you put your foot on the pedal it doesn't want to move and when I try to start it the next morning the battery is dead I even bought a new alternator still having the same problem
Same here. Have the '04 same as you. Mines broke down several times won't start back up replaced alternator, take battery out charge it, still same issue. Doesn't do it everyone either. Making me wanna commit insurance "adjustment" on the damned POS. Full coverage is a beautiful thing.
Was having issues woth battery too, changed battery and alternator didnt fix issues. Starter went out and i haven't had issues since, except the car dying while driving. Changed the battery terminal leads and have no issues with it. 150,600miles
I'm having the same exact issue with the studdering on my 07 it will run well then it will stutter. Almost sounds like a plugged converter to me I hope not I'm about to go wiggle the MAF. I just replaced my entire rear k member on this 2007 Murano, I wouldn't have bothered however before this it was running awesome it sat for six months waiting for me to get around to doing the K-member it was rotted so bad the rear tires were tilting in so bad the inside of the tires wore out, this, in turn, wore out my rear driveshaft bearing so I dropped the rear shaft. This truck is 99.5% front-wheel drive anyways. I believe that most of the problems with these CVT's are derived from when people use the all-wheel-drive on dry tar turning in 4x4 in a parking lot will really twist them, bands, up, so I have no issues never putting that shaft back in & especially at $1200 bucks for a new one so I thought it was condensation in the gas but .... i
@@TheeMissingLinc yeah I kept running high octane gas and one day it just started running good again.I had to drive it 50 miles a day regardless sputtering and shaking like a $5 dollar crack whore. It was my only way to work. Like I said I unplugged the MAF cleaned it out with some WD-40 & an air compresser "set low" put in about 3 bottles of octane boost as wells as some injector cleaner (1 per tank of gas) I'm gessing mine was a clogged injector perhaps Good kuck Jason & keep me posted bro.
For Nissan people....STOP using CVT TRANSMISSION!! its your setback! You know it yourselves that it is good only for 5000km on Murano and it will bug down. Make a manual Murano or back to traditional automatic drivetrain.
Cristina Cruz You can thank Renault, the parent company of Nissan. When they bailed Nissan out, one of the conditions was Nissan had to go to cvt transmissions. Nissan went downhill after that.
@@nissanneal I have the unicorn Murano. 150k miles, original trans, no problems. It's been driven by someone with an extremely light foot 95% of the time, that might have something to do with it. But whenever I drive it, I treat it like any other vehicle and it performs fine. Currently knocking out a bunch of engine issues and maintenance but nothing terrible. Valve cover gaskets, plugs, upper intake gasket, PCV, alternator(killed by the leaking valve cover), and an oil pan gaket(so much oil from the valve cover leak I dont know if it's bad, but screw it.) Overall the car had been pretty trouble free. It hates suspension parts, but they are cheap and easy to repair. I won't be surprised if this one hits 250k miles.
Cristina Cruz i own a 09 murano w 146k miles. Original transmission... they have issues but they’re not as bad as everyone says. The really troublesome transmissions come from the budget Nissans like the Versa
One of the PE coaches at my school had 80k on his Altima, the transmission was going out for the third time. Apparently it was replaced twice under warranty.
I’m testing a 2011 Murano but maybe I should keep my 04 Xterra with 230K no major issues just maintenance...I’m getting discouraged by the new cars lol
I'm having a problem with my 06 nissan murano at 80 mph my car begins to shake, there qas a crazy smacking noise at first but now it won't let me start the car. I've heard it could be the bearing or the belt, I can't figure out what's wrong with it
I had to run the calibration just bc someone removed the bumper and unplugged the sensors and never recalibrated after reinstalling the bumper. 😏 love cleaning up other people's messes.
Loved my Murano but it had CVT troubles. Like many others. Got rid of it.
Bad advertising for Snap On .
Your diagnosis was well done.
This video saved me from a perpetual headache as it turned out, my 09 Nissan Murano had the exact same problem. Unplugged that MAF sensor connector, wiggled the wires here and there, plugged it back in, cleared the error code. And crazy RPMs and bad fuel economy went away. Need a permanent fix for the wiring but thank you so much for this video!!!
This is the exact problem I’m having with my Nissan Murano. Glad I found your video, it’s very informative.
Great diagnosis. Knowing exactly what failed and not throwing parts at it. My compliments!!!!
I had an issue where my Murano was running rough and bucking severely, especially on hills. After replacing the MAF sensor, the problem persisted. A thorough search revealed the intake tube to the throttle body (accordion-looking thing) was cracked on the backside in two places, which was completely hidden from view. I replaced that piece for around $80 and now the car runs beautifully again. What a relief. Hoping this will help someone in the SW where drying/cracking rubber is common after a few years of use.
We had the exact same issue. How embarrassing was it (with an Uber passenger) trying to accelerate after a traffic light with a bad case of the put puts. My quick fix was heat resistant tape over the nasty cracks you mentioned until my part was delivered. I was so amazed with the tape that I threw the replacement part in the trunk and drove on the tape for close to a year.
Man that was enjoyable to watch. It shows the importance of proper diagnosing instead of throwing parts at a car. Subscribed 👍
When you went to the test drive I had already concluded it was a vac leak, based on the improvement at WOT, and I had already decided you needed to smoke the intake. I wondered why you would do a test drive, where heat could destroy evidence of the leak. To my humble surprise, watching further, the MAF was giving strange readings and the improvement with WOT was not repeated on a second study. Good for you, to collect more info before jumping to conclusions.
Actually I picked up the vehicle from the customer at her workplace down the street from my shop. So I had to drive it back. I guess it worked in my favor. Thanks for watching!
Me too! I figured it was just another vacuum leak. Great find.
You are definitely one of the best technicians I've seen. Your diagnostic process is very thorough and thought out. I definitely learn alot from watching your videos. I was immediately assuming a vacuum leak and would have wasted an hour smoke testing the system to get nowhere. Very well done!
I like your soldering technique. Steady hands is always a plus. I enjoyed watching your diagnosis and repair here.
Thanks for sharing this . I appreciate your passion (generosity to help us viewers around the world trying to find answers) and your skill - mastery in the trade and effective communication-education personality style .
Great job diagnosing! And great work filming the whole thing with tremendous clarity!
Dude, congratulations! One of the best channel's about cars maintenance I have watched. You showed to me that I still have A LOT to learning. Thank you
As always clear explanation on trouble shooting from the data on the Maxisys to the actual problem which was a break in the signal wire. Great job Eric and Thank you for the video.
This right here is a perfect example of why older technicians don't wanna do diagnostic work because back in their Hey day their golden days it was about 30 minutes to an hour to diagnose and maybe 15 to 40 hours to repair for example an engine knock 2 or 3 minutes to confirm and then 20 hours to do an overhaul depending on the type of engine or maybe 20 hours overhaul time yankit rebuild it get it back and get it running out the door.
Great video illustrating the need for scan tool and O scope to confirm readings excellent video demonstrating the use of 2 different devices to get to one answer
Thank you so much for watching! Btw I subbed to your channel. I've just watched a couple of videos and I'm really enjoying your stuff!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO well thank you for subbing . I be watching your channel .
I am soooo glad I found this channel. I live up in Spring and FINALLY have a shop that I have confidence in that I can take my cars to. I always watch Eric Os SMA channel with a pang of jealousy - why can't I have a shop like that near me? Well, now i know that I do. I am almost looking forward to my next vehicle challenge beyond my capabilities just so I can visit you guys!
I like your methodology and clear explanation.Your enthusiasm for your job shows.Great video and thanks for posting.
I am not mechanically inclined at all but really appreciated your detective work to make the diagnosis!
Thank you for watching!
Acted like a vacum leak, but when it flipped, that was a big clue. Great job on the diagnosis.
Thank you!
Do you suspect that was the motor torquing over and bending the wire/opening the circuit?
Yes! Exactly what was happening. Thank you for watching!
Simple to understand and the best technician.
Thanks a lot you solved my problem , I have been to so many diagnostic mechani and they can't seem to find the problem
Best information video I have seen. This guy is great. He is speaking to mechanics though. Luckily, I am a pretty good mechanic but don’t have the diagnostic tools he has. Ordered one though and will be here next week.
Great step by step diagnosis. I bet the dealer would have just launched the parts cannon on that poor MAF sensor.
Wow, you are one of the best I've ever watched. Thank you so much for caring enough to share. And I'm glad you (Unofficially) demo-ed the Snap-On Soldering tool. I'll stick with my old one~
Snap on used to be good. Now it is just the brand. Great video mate.
You are Automan. Like Batman, you have all kinds of wonderful tools. ( and know how to use them.) Good video! I have no such issues but just got a 2009 SL
Awesome!... Stick with the Power Probe torch. I have been using mine regularly for a couple years. Hasn't let me down yet... Thanks Eric!
Save me a lot of money. Right on the spot. Exactly same issue and yep was that same hose. Replace it and wala! Like new again. Thanks a lot
Just started my own TH-cam channel .only just come across yours I really like your content!
Thank you! Btw I subbed to your channel. Great stuff!
Man, without words. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Very good diagnosis
You're my new favorite tech.But when you whipped out that piece of uuum .......snap on ....let's just say iam glad it didn't work.
very satisfying to locate the problem and then fix it! great videos!
Great job. Im sure an autozone employee would have sold her a maf and oxygen sensors😂 ..typical snapon garbage lol. I have the same PP butane and its never let me down 💪
Yes. Thanks for watching!
Great fix! Those wires were super thin from the factory. Exactly why I dont buy Nissan. They are cheap and cut corners.
Thank you Eric. Good job again. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thank you!
Dang, down to the wire. Thanks for putting this up!
Fantastic video from beginning to end 👏
It’s definitely good information for us for me to thank you very much thank you for your time And thank you for teaching us thank you for teaching me👀🌿 God bless you
Great job Eric 👍 Like your thought process and explanation. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
I've never had any luck with any butane soldering tool i've bought. They either don't heat up at all, or light up and then die in a few seconds!
I guess it’s hit or miss. Thanks for watching!
Good job Man. Love your vids and they way you EXPLAIN things. Saludos !!!
Good diganotics all the necessary troubleshooting was done !!!
Great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
You really best teacher thanks so much
Like always you did it again thanks.
nice job Eric loved it way to check that wiring before putting a part on it. Butane soldering torches to me are bothersome in cold weather i noticed. MILWAUKIE has a lithiom ion battery powered soldering torch 140 DOLLARS HOME DEPOT all the best
Good job explaining..My blinker fuild light is on please help..?
great video and nicely done, just one thing can you please just talk in the videos and not shout the audio comes through badly. other than that nice find and diagnosis.
If the fuel trim numbers are high at idle and decrease at high rpms most of the time is a vac leak
True. But this one was not really consistent and it was going lean during driving. That made me believe something else was happening. Thanks for watching!
Me suscribí a tu canal. Me gustan tus videos
Thanks colega. Saludos you got a new subscriber too
Correct, my issue was a PCV Blow By Gas Hose had a tear.
Great detective work. Did you happen to take your wire strippers and go down the bad wire that you cut off to find the break?...was it right at the bend where it was attached to the car?
Nice, thanks for shareing
Hey Bro great video I have same code in my Infiniti G30t and it runs very ruff hope i it's the same issue that you just showed.
Always great information and videos thank you.
WISH YOU LIVED NEAR DIFFICULT TO FIND A HONEST MECHANIC...GOD BLESS YOU💖💯🙏💥💫
Money Pit avoid ! Not the Nissan/Datsun we had in the 70s
I've never been impressed with butane soldering irons. I can recommend the Milwaukee M12 though. Good diag, thanks!
Thanks! I'll be sure to check it out.
Really enjoy watching your content
Thank you I'm going to try it, I have the same codes
Thanks Eric , Man it suppose to show us the fuel trim data after changing the wire
Sorry, I forgot to add that into the video. They went back to normal after the repair. Thanks for watching!
Great job Eric, keep up the good work !!
I keep getting those same codes and have already replaced everything obvious to replace. My car doesn’t stall or anything but the check engine light will come on after a few days of driving it or letting it sit for a while but will continue to drive smoothly. I don’t have all the computers and tools that you have to be able to check everything in depth like that, do you think it could still be a wire that’s starting to have a bad connection? Like a lesser worn cable than the car you worked on?
I bought so many of them Butane tools. Not one lasted more then a month.. I ended up just getting TS-100 OLED.. That thing works every time....
I’ll be sure to check it out. Thanks for watching!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Using it right now. To install new head unit in Volvo..And Fix a Ford Driver side power window controls. Someone cut every wire trying to get the window. I use a NOCO GB40 to give me hours of portable use. Works great for Vehicles.
Where do I get the power probe the old school one?
Great diagnosing. Thanks!
Great video. I have a 2006 Murano SV with only 155,000 miles, no engine light on, everything is good except when stoped and I step on the gas, the car doesn't seem to go but studder and doesn't seem to go fast. Then after a few seconds, it starts to run smoother. Any suggestions or ideas where to check?
Will K do you have a code scanner
@@rahrah8076 I do but there's no code showing.
I have the same issue on a 2012 Murano. I have code P0101. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Gonna drive the car for a couple days to see if the check engine light goes away...
Will K what kind of code scanner do you have ? If it’s just a basic generic scan tool it will only show basic codes..you need a high end scan tool
transmission dead
Nice diagnosis and repair. Thanks!
Is there a step by step process to relearn the Thrttole Idle without the scan tool?. I have a 2015 Nissan Rogue with push start button and daytime running lights. I need to clean my throttle body but can't get a step by step procedure for relearning the throttle body idle without a scan tool. Thanks in advance and great video 😊
thanks for the video ! This info really helps me out
I'm so upset that I bought the maxisys years ago when it was ony 500$ and sold it, its over $1200 now lol but it's still worth the buy in my opinion.
Was the wire damaged inside the induction cover?
Dangers of your choice Euro flashlight LED on your cell phone was on the whole time creating extra glare outside of what was in the background behind you! I'm surprised you didn't see it cuz it was clear to see from our point of view that your LED was on shining in the plexiglass on your instrument,!? Also I've used one of those butane powered soldering irons since the 80s that I have had in my toe case and it is it is lit by piezoelectric inside you can use a regular hand lighter to light it but obviously it's defective the piezoelectric part is not lighting or igniting the gas
Great job as usual. Thanks for making this..........
Hey Erric, am Carlos. Am NOT a auto-tech. Anyway, I have a 2018 Nissan Maxima Platinum with just under (20000) miles on it. I notice whenever am backing up, I hear a subtle, but noticeable knocking sound around driver side front wheel area. Now this is my 5th Maxima and I noticed this sound in the last two previous cars. I brought it to Nissan, the tech agent came and heard, but still am hearing the sound. What do you think?
Useful info thank you for your great video
Thank you Eric for this video, one more time excellent job I'm learning so much from you, thank you from Bulgaria
Thank you!
I'm not sure if you can PM I am having some intermittent electrical issues. One- when I'm at idle my lights will flash while my RMPs jump from about 600 to 1000. Engine revs on own. Replaced alternator 1.5 yr ago. Mass air flow sensor 2.5 yrs ago.
Check your grounds and battery terminal connections
Snap on is now getting its tools thru China ..they use to be top dog ..now there what a dog leaves for you to step on !...great video Brother thanks for sharing
Yeah. My dealer had to send it to get repaired. Now I have to wait 2 weeks to get it back. I've spent thousands with them and always feel like I'm not getting my monies worth. Anyways, thanks for watching!
Well done Eric. The Murano lives to drive another day. Nice diagnosis and repair. Did you have the gas control set to maximum when trying to ignite? Same as a gas bbq. need a lot of gas flow on ignition then adjust back to the required setting. If still no luck get the money back on the strap on and grab a Milwaukee m12 iron. They are fantastic.
Yes, I tried with different gas settings, but no luck. My Strap-On dealer comes by tomorrow, I'll see what he thinks. Thanks for watching!
My Snap-On dealer had to send it to get repaired. Now I have to wait 2 weeks to get it back.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO bummer. Buy the Milwaukee anyway lol.
If you get tired of cars you can always be a sports commentator! Lol
Where are you from ? I need you too work on my 2005 nissa murano , know body can figure out the problem. I spent so much money . and was going see if you can give my murano a try .
Great snap on tool there.
You are awesome, thanks for SHARING
Why does my car experience surges when idling? I recently had my ignition coils, spark plugs, and air filter replaced, and I've noticed a slight surging sensation, even though the RPM doesn't fluctuate. No codes
Same problem i had with my snap on …. Had to keep using my harbor freight
The big problem is that they cost a pretty penny
I got a 2004 nissan morano when you put your foot on the pedal it doesn't want to move and when I try to start it the next morning the battery is dead I even bought a new alternator still having the same problem
Same here. Have the '04 same as you. Mines broke down several times won't start back up replaced alternator, take battery out charge it, still same issue. Doesn't do it everyone either. Making me wanna commit insurance "adjustment" on the damned POS. Full coverage is a beautiful thing.
Was having issues woth battery too, changed battery and alternator didnt fix issues. Starter went out and i haven't had issues since, except the car dying while driving. Changed the battery terminal leads and have no issues with it. 150,600miles
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, i did learn a lot.
First watch, pretty awesome. I'm a starting mechanic.
Whats crazy is i think im having this problem now but dont have a scan tool or multimeter
I'm having the same exact issue with the studdering on my 07 it will run well then it will stutter.
Almost sounds like a plugged converter to me I hope not I'm about to go wiggle the MAF.
I just replaced my entire rear k member on this 2007 Murano, I wouldn't have bothered however before this it was running awesome it sat for six months waiting for me to get around to doing the K-member it was rotted so bad the rear tires were tilting in so bad the inside of the tires wore out, this, in turn, wore out my rear driveshaft bearing so I dropped the rear shaft.
This truck is 99.5% front-wheel drive anyways. I believe that most of the problems with these CVT's are derived from when people use the all-wheel-drive on dry tar turning in 4x4 in a parking lot will really twist them, bands, up, so I have no issues never putting that shaft back in & especially at $1200 bucks for a new one so I thought it was condensation in the gas but .... i
Did you figure it out? Was it the same problem? Have the same issue with my 07 too
@@TheeMissingLinc yeah I kept running high octane gas and one day it just started running good again.I had to drive it 50 miles a day regardless sputtering and shaking like a $5 dollar crack whore.
It was my only way to work. Like I said I unplugged the MAF cleaned it out with some WD-40 & an air compresser "set low" put in about 3 bottles of octane boost as wells as some injector cleaner (1 per tank of gas)
I'm gessing mine was a clogged injector perhaps Good kuck Jason & keep me posted bro.
The best thing to do with this guy is to hit the like button first , then watch the video. lol.
Thank you lol
For Nissan people....STOP using CVT TRANSMISSION!! its your setback! You know it yourselves that it is good only for 5000km on Murano and it will bug down. Make a manual Murano or back to traditional automatic drivetrain.
Cristina Cruz You can thank Renault, the parent company of Nissan. When they bailed Nissan out, one of the conditions was Nissan had to go to cvt transmissions. Nissan went downhill after that.
@@nissanneal I have the unicorn Murano. 150k miles, original trans, no problems. It's been driven by someone with an extremely light foot 95% of the time, that might have something to do with it. But whenever I drive it, I treat it like any other vehicle and it performs fine. Currently knocking out a bunch of engine issues and maintenance but nothing terrible. Valve cover gaskets, plugs, upper intake gasket, PCV, alternator(killed by the leaking valve cover), and an oil pan gaket(so much oil from the valve cover leak I dont know if it's bad, but screw it.) Overall the car had been pretty trouble free. It hates suspension parts, but they are cheap and easy to repair. I won't be surprised if this one hits 250k miles.
Cristina Cruz i own a 09 murano w 146k miles. Original transmission... they have issues but they’re not as bad as everyone says. The really troublesome transmissions come from the budget Nissans like the Versa
One of the PE coaches at my school had 80k on his Altima, the transmission was going out for the third time. Apparently it was replaced twice under warranty.
I’m testing a 2011 Murano but maybe I should keep my 04 Xterra with 230K no major issues just maintenance...I’m getting discouraged by the new cars lol
I'm waiting for civic part two thanks
23:52 omg I feel you so hard. 😂
Nissan murano 2007What is the reason why the race does not catch when you put the gear in the car?
What is the cause of higher gas consumption of Nissan Murano
My first thought was mass airflow or runner control valves or stopped up muffler
Yes, this one just made me scratch my head because it would only act up under certain conditions. Luckily we found it. Thanks for watching!
I'm having a problem with my 06 nissan murano at 80 mph my car begins to shake, there qas a crazy smacking noise at first but now it won't let me start the car. I've heard it could be the bearing or the belt, I can't figure out what's wrong with it
Good job
Nice job
I had to run the calibration just bc someone removed the bumper and unplugged the sensors and never recalibrated after reinstalling the bumper. 😏 love cleaning up other people's messes.