Absolutely corrrect. Mentioning the fact that you should never touch the butterfly on the throttle body is something many youtube vids forget to mention. Excellent video probably one of the best i've ever seen .
Wow! You are an awesome teacher. Thank you so much for the great information. We were dealing with a crank no start on my 2008 Toyota 4Runner 4.7 v8 sport edition for 6 grewling months. It was so disheartening. I watched so many videos to help my 62 year old hubby. Don't get me wrong he is a great mechanic. But, hes old school used to dealing with a carburator and no obd2 computer. Trust me, i made him absolutly nuts. Been married for 23 years but, having his wife second guess him was not good for his confidence and for that i am sorry. It's just that my father was dying and we are not well off. I made the mistake of buying the car with 232000 miles on it and not making sure things were maintained like he said they were. Getting older his memory was starting to wither. We or he replaced the bathery, checked the fuses and the 3 relays for the fuel pump, chsnged the gas cap. Cleaned the maf sensor, cleaned the trottle body unnecessary changed the crankshaft position sensor and he dropped the tank cleaned out the tank, changed the fuel filter and found out the fuel pump was ok, changed the spark plugs and still nothing. When my father passed away he left me some money, wait i forgot to add the ignition switch assembly with a set of keys to reprogram. Alot of money, alot and hope was gone. Had 2 codes po113 and po102. Check engine light and a couple others. The toyota dealership quoted me a price of 3500 to drop the tank clean it change the fuel pump assembly eventhough it doesnt say that on the service receipt nor at Toyotas main headquarters where it shows your service done. The installed the ignition switch i bought reprogramed the keys and after about 3 days finnally called me. The wierd thing is the diagnostic info had everything as a pass but the tires which i replaced and they said a " vacume leak that was no big deal and that the catalytic converter was rusty and needed to be reported but no big deal. They initially told me they could fix it in a couple days they were waiying for " the sucky thing for the fuel pump. And an o ring it would be available sometime next week. They wouldnt answer my questions when i asked them what parts were they waiting for? I said the fuel swnding uniti and the o ring. She never responded. I know its supposed to be a complete unit replaced. Meanwhile since she never would answer the phone or my text i called toyota. Of course they heard about it and sent me sn kinda nasty email i ignored it. Then on sunday the car was ready. Three days later. Even though they were waiting on parts to arrive in about a week. I cant help but feel scammed. They didnt even take the price of the diagnostic off the price they added it. Told me 1700 to drop the tank and replace the fuel filter was rhat much. To replace the ignition switch went from 1700 but since i had the part from florida at another dealership the took that down to 800. Then 189 for the fuel injectors cleaned and the butterfly thing cleaned. Sorry i forgot the name because i know nothing about cars, i just watched videos over and over. Throttle body. Thats it. Clean the throttle body for 199. All equaling 3600. I couldnt figure out how she did her math. Trust me i asked. Hense my call to Toyota headquarters. I Just wanted my car fixed nowcheck engine light back on with vsc off and squiggly line light. Im thinking cat. My question to you is how do you feel about catclean. I'd rather things and then I read bad things and I know nothing. Sorry it was so long. You seem like an honest gentleman that really calmed me. So much good info. I really live the suv. But, im so afraid they put little bobby traps in there and little by little i will pay again for calling toyota. I hope we dont need a new cat. We are now getting the dreaded po420 code. The car was light free then when my father passed away he drove from Louisiana to florida. Lights came on. I read somewhere that cats need to be warmed up to read properly and the fact they were about 600 miles warmed up that it was that. The cat is the reason for the check engine the vsc off and the sqiggles. I will never go back to that Toyota dealership ever again. I think its a shame because they lost someone that could have been a lifetime customer. It also makes me sad that human being could treat each other with such distain and in this world of technology , lack of morality, lack of the golden rule teachings and the religion of be good in your heart thats all that matters is gone. Texting a customer is apauling and shifty. Have the guts to use your voice before we lose sight of this beautiful world where life is so precious and short. I am 57 my dad was only 82. But , i still felt 12 around him. He knew how to do everything. I will forever be changed by his loss. People like you are one in a million. The way you teach is inspiring. Thank you.
Try changing Cabin Filter if you have rough idle issues when turning On AC. I have a 230K mileage lexus is250 that has a P0113 misfire and rough idles on R/D/AC On. Saw a video and manually cleaned carbon buildup on valves > cleaned fuel injector > cleaned spark plugs, throttle body and replaced engine and cabin filter. Now my car runs like Brand New! Thanks!
Went to school for automotive been working on car since I was 12 you're very talented in relaying what you're doing in a non car person way Ida learn how to dumb it down great video
Thank you for your videos bud! I got into a bad accident and a lady destroyed my car , i bought a used Matrix while insurance and Lawyers settle the situation. These videos are a blessing.
The more I watch videos on all the things that can go wrong and how much it costs to get it fixed on these wretched cars, I see the magic in the unsung simplicity and reliability of a bicycle.
Hey man this is great because I had those problems with my car before I watched your videos but now you've opened my eyes and saved me a lot of bucks, I'm now able to do all what you myself. Thanks.
Thank you Scotty! I'm able to follow along and diagnose my Mercedes E 500 and do my own repairs ....saving me a fortune! I appreciate you and all your videos.
Can’t thank you enough for the list of items I can methodically go through and check just as you did. You explain it in such a fashion along with brilliant video cut aways, close-ups that allow me to follow you without any confusión. You’re clearly a fantastic communicator on this channel. I’ll continue to follow you as I want to take care of my overpriced car. Cheers dude!
This is a great work. Thanks for sharing. This video helps people like me who only has 2 choices either walk to everywhere or fixing my broken car. Again thanks.
Thank you for this video. As a girlie girl, I've always wanted to know how engines work for when I have car trouble, I'll know which part they are talking about. I wouldn't mind taking a mechanics class also. This also puts my faith back in mechanics also; now that I now it could be more than one thing, that he's not just money gouging me.
Coils are easier to chexk than spark plugs. You literally have to remove the coil to get to the spark plug. If you have a scan tool you can switch coils to see if anything changes. Also you can use a tester and test the coil.
@@hioshimtsu yeah but it's visually easy to tell for a spark, if sparks are good, chances arz the coils are blown If your coils are dead, how do you immediately know they're faulty if yoyr sparks are dirty?
Thank you for this great video. It was really helpful. My wife Infinity was shaking violently and kept stalling. It turned out the connector to the air system was loose. Thank you! You saved us thousands of dollars in repair.
People online have been saying watch out for throttle body closing at will and apparently it can take out a finger, even if the battery is disconnected. I haven't done it yet but just wanted to note that. Note sure if true but it does seem possible. So what you showed with using a toothbrush makes sense.
I’m so happy I ran across your video. Your explanation on things is just perfect. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to do this stuff on my car. I’m not a mechanic. I do things on my car. I’m a woman with tools and know how to use them, your explanation I hope I can fix my car by myself. I think with your help I can think I could do it. I’ll let you know.
Wow! Your intelligence helped me to be more self-sufficient...🙋♀️....As a female, I feel good when I'm learning to do it myself and don't have to ask anyone to help me....I'm educating myself to help others.......very helpful video...thank you sooo much.
Great video. I seen a guy clean his IAC with it still mounted. He removed the tube where it vents into the crankcase. While plugging the hole where the tube was attached with his finger he sprayed carb cleaner down through the throttle body into the IAC until it started to break up the carbon buildup. You can also tear the whole throttle body off and remove the IAC but, if you don't have to why? Thanks again.
A misfire could be from a stuck open valve. In modern cars, you would just have a bent valve or it would have dropped down. You could also have a head gasket not torqued all the way, and you've lost compression. Rocker arms being too tight can push on the lifter, when set at an undesired valve lash. Spark plug could be loose in the hole, and little to no compression could be found. Bad piston rings could produce little to no compression. Always take off the valve cover and watch the rockers move.A bad harmonic balance, flywheel, or flex-plate could lead to knocking sounds, as well as unbalanced vibrations. A vacuum leak could cause vibrations (un-metered air entering intake manifold / carburetor).
Thank you sooo much for you for sharing your, knowledgeable, methodical, commonsense approach to this issue! Much appreciated is the quality of the video you made and your ability to clearly articulate the material you have presented. You did a fabulous job taking the "rocket" out of science!! Thank you again.
Thanks from Kenya,I love to deal with technical issues b4 I call in for help...wow this was a lesson on fuel and air systems maintenance..God bless you
I've watched so many videos to troubleshoot my rough idle for my brand new jeep compass. Thank you so much for a very detailed and helpful video. My spark plugs were to far apart. Thank you
Just started having this issue. I’m leaning towards the fuel system, but it’s great to know the other areas that maybe the culprit. Thanks for the insight!
I just had my exhaust on a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis worked on, by a custom exhaust specialist. The reason I took the car in is because the hangar broke and pipe began rubbing against the inside of the car. I also knew I had an exhaust leak most likely in the manifold. But there was no check engine light on and car started up beautifully, drove beautifully despite the ticking noise when accelerating. The mechanic also fixed the suspension, unrelated but definitely needed. I didn't replace the exhaust manifold because it is too big of a job and the mechanic was able to weld the tube as best he could, leaving only a very small leak. No more fumes, or ticking but now the car is vibrating during idle and check engine light on. I took it back it was for emissions and he said everything else seemed good, no misfires. But now the car is having trouble starting at times. I'm just gonna take it somewhere else which I would have done, but I heard these guys were cheaper because they can weld. It could be unrelated, but it seems too coincidental to me
Here is my situation: There is no check engine light and the car starts fine but has rough idling in hotweather or after the 1st trip. So if you drive in the morning to get gas there are no issues, but after you start up your car again to leave the grocery store (2nd trip within a short amount of time) it starts idling low or bad. The 2nd trip situation seems to fade with extended time. So if I go to work and then work my 8 hour shift and then leave, I dont notice it much unless its hot weather out. Other things to note. My "charging system" failed when i had it tested, but my battery passed. I took out my alternator and my alternator passed the independent/isolated test on the machine at 2 auto stores. I have an AC adapter that reads voltage and at stops/red lights it drops below 12v. I will check the air lines though but wondered if there are other things to check.
Just an important thing to know: Seafoam should ONLY be used on regularly maintained/ late model cars (newer ones), otherwise it can cause too much space between the pistons and bore, leading to burning oil. It'd be great before an engine rebuild on an old car, but if you have an older car - and you're not planning on doing an engine overhaul - then stay away from it. Everything will leak afterwards.
@@chikechovis2499 *Is all am thinking!* Sometimes cars older than 10 years are considered “old.” Sometimes 15+, Sometimes 20+ or like you said, sometimes 50! lol. So this the first question in my mind as well after I read the comment!
@@letscuthairtoday9038 yea I have a 68 plymouth fury that was taken great care of and runs great I use seafoam in it regularly, I just purchased a 99 honda prelude that's was sitting around for a bit and was leaking oil bad I used seafoam in that to hope it doesn't get worse.
I’ve started stp fuel treatment once a week or so during fill up and I have been noticing the thing DRINKING oil. Mech said no external leak so could that be why? Idk. Going through a quart about every 1k miles.
Hello. This video was very clear for me, a 50 year old lady. My Mustang is making a ticking noise and the car shakes. It does this when the fan comes on…. Please any advice needed. Since hearing the video, I’m thinking it’s motor mounts but like I said, I know for a fact it does this only when the engine fan comes on.
Thank you so much! I found that the pipe leading from the airbox to the engine was torn... I could't understand why the car sounded so good suddenly, but was jerkey at idle and acceleration. Thank you!
Great video but just a tip, check your idle air control valve first. More often than not this is the culprit and by starting with this first you may potentially save a lot of time and effort trying to find the problem.
How How do you even check the IAC? I removed mine and I cleaned it out But that doesn't really help if there's an underlying electrical issue that needs to be Resolved
@@macknumber9 To check whether the idle air control valve is functioning properly, start the engine and let it run for about 10 to 15 minutes. If the valve is functioning correctly, the engine will sound good and the idle will be steady versus too high, too low, or inconsistent. Additionally, using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the (IAC) valve. Resistance should be 10 - 14 ohms. Depending on the model this could even be 7 - 25 ohms. Check the specifications for your specific vehicle. If you can't tell by listening or don't want to mess with learning how to measure ohms and all that stuff, just simply replace it with a new one. They can be expensive depending on the vehicle. I can get mine for about $30 online. I have seen them for $100 or more on other cars. Either way, these things usually last for a long time, so by replacing it, you'll be doing yourself a favor in the long run. If money is an issue, you could always buy one, install it and see if that fixes the problem. If not, then as long as you're careful with it, you should be able to return it and get your money back. Most car parts stores won't let you return electrical parts if they have been installed. So just try to not scratch, ding, or otherwise make it obvious that it was installed and you should be ok.
@mystery dude yeah my car idles perfect it does what it should do when it starts up rpms are about 1200 like they should be to help the car warm up and then they drop gradually....sometimes as they drop it does slightly surge up but it ends up going down and idling at a steady rpm that is around 700....my issue is I feel these little slight shakes...they come and go and I feel them more in park than I do in drive so I don't think it is mounts
@@mysterydude1 well it isn't a sticking valve because vacuum is 100% perfect steady at idle....I think it is an injector flow problem...of not injector has to be either mount or harmonic balancer...
Your on point. My filter hose is fd up like what you mentioned. Same with the motor mounts. The sparkplugs needs changing as well. Whew. 2003 Honda Accord, we will make it through 2021, I trust you.
thanks Josh, this is the video i've been searching for years, as i was researching i probably found many of the causes separetly but never a good well rounded explanation with examples like yours. about the electronic throtle body, never knew you cant move it fortunately mine didnt breake when i held it open with my fingers and cleaned with wet wipes, it cleaned out nicely and the issue is gone, the idle is much better now as befor it used to go up and down a lot with the hot engine never after a cold start with the check engine ligth and the code for barometric pressure in the intake manifold. still got a little bit of vibration/shakiness gonna have to check some things from your list if not it might be from the torque converter as i understand it can also cause vibration and shaking i have a 3.2 fsi a6 c6 thanks again for a greate video!
5:13 NEVER use carburetor cleaner to detect leaks. Carburetor cleaner can be corrosive and should be used carefully. It can damage rubber, plastics, painted surfaces, and electrical components.
What about radiator hoses? I spent a fortune trying to fix lack of power and rough idle in my car, replace the catalyzer...did not help, full tune up...also did not help. Righ now I have my car in the mechanic to replace radiator hoses that looks in bad shape, hope that solve the problem. Thank you for sharing this very informative video.
Also check if the engine is getting enough volts. Sometimes the alternator is bad or the alternator regulator is bad and sending too much volts which is very rare.
Found this video precise adn to the point. Nothing like those who waffle along and take detours to get to the main points. Thanks and earned a new sub. Great work
For a vibration. In drive at idle. The HARMONIC BALANCER / DAMPENER IS VERY SUSPECTED. ALSO FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE OR TORQUE CONVERTER MISSING COUNTER WEIGHTS MISSING
Thank you! I'm very afraid of trying to do any of this myself but i have a used car that just started doing this. Although it's very weak at this point I don't have any money for another car or for having to pay for an expensive repair so I'm desperate enough to try and diagnose the issue on my own. I really hope I can figure it out.
It's easy to see cracked or broken motor mounts, but sometimes they're saggy or hard as rock so also check for that. Sometimes people will just do a visual without checking for anything else. You can poke them with a screwdriver to check for stiffness or even too soft.
❤thanks a lot .. so I can really understand what the scanner said about my sensors and rough idili..thank you a lot ..I left my Captiva sport 2012 to be fix tune up and change Battery.im a 64 year old female and too hard for me do it and don't know, but love the way you explain in details..God keep you bless
Informative and to the point. Wish my mustang plugs were as accessable as yours because that's what I suspect is contributing to my shaking while in gear with acceleration lacking in power. Wouldn't the plug wires also be suspect?
Hey, I really enjoy your videos. They are very informational. I have a 2008 Audi A6, 3.2 Quattro. I have been receiving misfire codes for some coils, I replaced all plugs and coils-still continuing to get a misfire code for my #2 cylinder. I get an ESP light, ABS light, and check enginie light after getting to 3,000-3,500 RPMs-then my car shakes. Any help please! My mechanic is stumped.
some COP coil on plug ignition coils use a spring to make contact with the coil . When you remove one to change the plug , check for burning / arcing on the insulation . If you see any burning , you can pull the insulation off and see the damage inside
My car would shake and sputter around low rpm and mph (2-7). I put fuel injector cleaner in with half a tank gas, gave it a while and reved it a little, and now the shakes are gone.
You mentioned spark plugs but didn't talk about spark plug wires which can need replacing on older cars. My 1997 Toyota Corolla needed replacement of both spark plugs and the spark plug wires. Problem fixed!
If your car's engine misfires and gets bogged down or stalls when stopped at a traffic light but runs good otherwise, spend $8 and buy a small bottle of Lucas Deep Clean fuel injector cleaner with up to 15 gal of gas. Add all the contents into your gas tank filler neck and then add some more fuel to distribute it in the tank. I used it with 10 gallons. It was amazing how quickly it worked for me, like right away. That told me the culprit was one or more carbonized fuel injector tips without doing anything else except checking for vacuum leaks first, which will have a whistling or sucking sound. Anyone can do this and it has worked for me on other cars. 😊
@@jbutton15 make sure to check for vacuum leaks first while the engine is running. The small bottle is good for up to 15 Gallons of gas. May require two treatments or use every couple thousand miles.😉
Hi ! A Riddle !……..Strong vibration inside car. Exhaust rattles many years. New motor mounts and transmission mount did nothing. Was aftermarket parts. The car vibrates much less when it is warm out, and virtually no vibration when it is raining. Is vibrates both in park, and drive, in neutral, driving at the speed, sitting at a traffic light in Park, or in the gear. Again, with warm weather much less. And with the rain, virtually no vibration. For Many years.
Wow that’s a great riddle! The humidity/temp thing makes me feel that’s it’s an air/fuel mix problem. Any engine codes? Vacuum system has many parts but I wonder if there’s something going on there. Check for cracked vacuum lines
I feel like even though I have a new engine mounts and new transmission mount three years ago, (didn’t do anything good then) , maybe they weren’t good? today I propped up the transmission pan about 1 to 2 inches, and the steering wheel and idle still was shaking. same amount) but for some reason I feel like it still is the transmission mount. The (new parts) Volvo 940 transmission square mounts (some models take circular ) seem to protrude past outer metal frame. mine seems slightly at level. propping tran Pan didn’t stop vibration though. large muffler shake in gear standing still. and driving. and at idle noticeable. car shakes vibrates all rpm. accelerating abd at certain rpm it’s vibrating more. i put a harbor freight vacuum gauge on it. i got ….. “””At idle engine speed the gauge pointer pulsates, but at higher speeds the pointer is steady, this could be an indication of loose valve stem guides.”””. But shouldn’t a shake be absorbed by engine and tran mounts. I sprayed car w brake cleaner while running. minor barely noticeable dip. at exhaust manifold. cylinder 2. cylinder 4 spark plug for was oily and black. car feels strong and great other than major vibration. no engine codes. obd 1. 1993 volvo 940. maybe it is the transmission mount?
also. i did spray cleaner into air intake and cleaned IAC. also this vibration did Not go away 3 years ago. before was there an after was there for timing belt water, pump, and harmonic, balancer change, and also after knew of timing, belt and water pump and harmonic, balancer change, same vibration. Although I would say that the harmonic balancer, it looks a little off at the moment, but remember this all disappears with a very heavy rain.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do." One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them. I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
Did it fix the way your car was running before? Having the computer reprogrammed? Cause I have changed the coils and plugs and a lot more on my Ford Mustang and it’s still rough idling and I don’t know what to do
@@aaronortiz5753 Thanks for your question Aaron. Absolutely, find a Ford / Lincoln dealer that offers the service of reprogramming your computer. In South Florida, I was very surprised as to how a good number of Ford Dealerships seemed to have no clue about reprogramming the main computer. One dealership near my house had the car a full day and never did anything to the car. They said it probably needs a new computer and that since Ford no longer sells a replacement, I was out of luck. I got a similar response from several other dealers. Pines Ford in Pembroke Pines FL does reprogram main computers. I had it done twice. Before the second reprogramming, I specifically asked them to change any coils that were not replaced on the previous visit, which completely solved the problem. They replaced a vacuum hose and one coil connection as well. If you find a Ford dealer that tells you the main computer can't be reprogrammed, or that they do not do that, find another Ford dealer. My guess is that most general repair shops don't have bi-directional scanners. Auto parts stores will rent or sell scanners, but these are generally just for diagnosis. They can detect a problem with a particular cylinder misfiring. They do not however have the capability to do much more to your computer than to shut off the engine light. Once that light goes off, it will eventually go back on if the problem has not been solved. If your AC compressor has stopped working, having the computer reprogrammed may reactivate the AC compressor. Bidirectional scanners are a more expensive scanner, which requires a Ford subscription. This type of scanner has the ability to re-program the main computer. It probably requires a specific process, so it's not the type of thing I would purchase myself, or attempt to do myself. A Ford dealer who reprograms computers should have all the right equipment and be familiar with the process involved. BTW, I got a lot of this information from a Ford Master Tech. I told him how I had replaced a lot of parts, coils, plugs, and carburetor parts, but my engine light would still come back on, and the car had jerky acceleration, etc. He immediately mentioned having the main computer reprogrammed. He also said that the AC compressor shutting down is typical. The main computer shuts the AC compressor down to protect it until ignition problems are resolved.
@@tompastian3447 Thank u man! I appreciate it. I did take it to a dealership already but they told me that I need a new computer, they didn’t say anything of reprogramming so I’m guessing they don’t do that. And yeah also my A/C isn’t working which was really weird to me since the A/C doesn’t really have to do anything with the engine acting weird, but now that u are telling me it’s because of the main computer then all makes sense. I did get diagnostics and it said u had like 3 misfires and did everything I could to fix it but it’s still the same. I well make sure to find a dealership that will do the reprogramming. Thank u so much for responding!
@@aaronortiz5753 Yes, find a more competent dealership. You might try looking up Lincoln Dealers in your area. Just a stab in the dark, but maybe since they service the higher end Ford vehicles, they might be more likely to have Ford's correct diagnostic equipment. Another thing about people who tell you that the main computer may need to be replaced, even if that was true, a replacement computer also has to be programmed after it's installed. You can't just stick in a new computer, or pull one out of a junk yard from another vehicle and expect the car to run right. What city and state do you live in ? VERY IMPORTANT, when they reprogram your computer, it requires 2 ignition keys. Be sure to supply the dealership with two keys, or they may have to charge you to make a second key.
@@tompastian3447 gotcha!! I will try looking for some around here. Yeah that’s what I thought, because I was like why get another computer if they are gonna do the exact same thing to the one I already have on my car. And I live in Maryland. And gotcha I will make sure to get 2 keys!
We really appreciate your time and expertise, I was told it might be the compressor, when I took my car to an auto store to have the battery and alternator checked for my 2016 Nissan Versa, when I explained that the car shakes when the ac is on and the car is idle,
After watching this I felt like i could be a mechanic because you explained everything so perfectly! Question though, I've had someone look at it and they said the belt tensioner might need to be replaced. I phoned another mechanic, without having looked at it, they said it could be the alternator. Here are the symptoms my car is experiencing: 1. vibrations while idling 2. vibrations while using electronics (windows, A/C, etc) 3. random dashlights flashing (ie: passenger air bag, cruise, cruise set, and more recently battery light and ebrake light). From these symptoms would you be more inclined to say its the alternator, battery or belt tensioner? Or something I didn't mention?
Sounds like you are definitely low on power. If it were me I'd take it down to your local auto shop, most will test the battery and alternator for free. I suppose a tensioner could also cause a lack of power if it wasn't keeping the belt tight enough to properly spin the alternator but that's a bit less likely. You can always some back and check that afterwards.
Thank you! My car is in the shop right now. Looking for some knowledge before they call to give me a diagnosis. I would love to know if this is the order they will check and how will I know they didn't just find a loose plug but want to replace the cylinder? I'm so skeptical. 🙄
Bad news they charged me for cleaning the throttle body butterfly and then suggested I replace might want to replace the EGR valve. They said he wasn't sure really so maybe I should wait until a code comes up and bring it back then. Do mechanics only know what to do if a code tells them first? 🤔
Thank you so much for this video! It’s very helpful and confirms everything I was thinking. I have a car that has a vibration/shake (rattles the doors sometimes) when stopped, and I took it back to the dealership when it needed the AC compressor replaced and mentioned it to them. They did nothing about it and pretty much ignored it. Now I’m trying to figure it out myself. I’m about to replace the spark plugs first, hoping this fixes the problem since it didn’t appear to be the motor mounts.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do." One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them. I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
@@kushkushogbomb1589 Owning 4 Mercurys, I think they conspire with each other as to how they can break down to keep me from driving them. Funny you mention Nazis. One episode of Hogan's Heros showed a German ambulance entering Stalag 13. It was a 46 Ford painted to look like a German ambulance. Guess Bing Crosby Productions didn't have access to any old Mercedes ambulances.
Aloha, Josh! I took my car in for service because it was having a slow start. 2005 Pontiac Vibe with 175K miles. They ran diagnostics and determined I needed a new starter. Also, it was a quart low on oil and overdue for an oil change, so they did that as well. When I picked up the car, the manager said my car was "shaking like a leaf" and said the engine mounts might be going bad. The car WASN'T DOING THAT WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN! I am stumped. After watching this informative video, I'm wondering if dirt or debris could have gotten into the system when they were doing the oil change. Someone was using a lawn maintenance blower in the bay to clean up the floor next to my car. What are your thoughts? Mahalo!
It’s not just knowledgeability but the talent to explain and teach well, that makes someone [you!] a good teacher!
Thank you!
Where u located or do u have any good mecanics on hollywood california@@BudgetMechanicHawaii
Absolutely corrrect. Mentioning the fact that you should never touch the butterfly on the throttle body is something many youtube vids forget to mention. Excellent video probably one of the best i've ever seen .
Wow! You are an awesome teacher. Thank you so much for the great information. We were dealing with a crank no start on my 2008 Toyota 4Runner 4.7 v8 sport edition for 6 grewling months. It was so disheartening. I watched so many videos to help my 62 year old hubby. Don't get me wrong he is a great mechanic. But, hes old school used to dealing with a carburator and no obd2 computer. Trust me, i made him absolutly nuts. Been married for 23 years but, having his wife second guess him was not good for his confidence and for that i am sorry. It's just that my father was dying and we are not well off. I made the mistake of buying the car with 232000 miles on it and not making sure things were maintained like he said they were. Getting older his memory was starting to wither. We or he replaced the bathery, checked the fuses and the 3 relays for the fuel pump, chsnged the gas cap. Cleaned the maf sensor, cleaned the trottle body unnecessary changed the crankshaft position sensor and he dropped the tank cleaned out the tank, changed the fuel filter and found out the fuel pump was ok, changed the spark plugs and still nothing. When my father passed away he left me some money, wait i forgot to add the ignition switch assembly with a set of keys to reprogram. Alot of money, alot and hope was gone. Had 2 codes po113 and po102. Check engine light and a couple others. The toyota dealership quoted me a price of 3500 to drop the tank clean it change the fuel pump assembly eventhough it doesnt say that on the service receipt nor at Toyotas main headquarters where it shows your service done. The installed the ignition switch i bought reprogramed the keys and after about 3 days finnally called me. The wierd thing is the diagnostic info had everything as a pass but the tires which i replaced and they said a " vacume leak that was no big deal and that the catalytic converter was rusty and needed to be reported but no big deal. They initially told me they could fix it in a couple days they were waiying for " the sucky thing for the fuel pump. And an o ring it would be available sometime next week. They wouldnt answer my questions when i asked them what parts were they waiting for? I said the fuel swnding uniti and the o ring. She never responded. I know its supposed to be a complete unit replaced. Meanwhile since she never would answer the phone or my text i called toyota. Of course they heard about it and sent me sn kinda nasty email i ignored it. Then on sunday the car was ready. Three days later. Even though they were waiting on parts to arrive in about a week. I cant help but feel scammed. They didnt even take the price of the diagnostic off the price they added it. Told me 1700 to drop the tank and replace the fuel filter was rhat much. To replace the ignition switch went from 1700 but since i had the part from florida at another dealership the took that down to 800. Then 189 for the fuel injectors cleaned and the butterfly thing cleaned. Sorry i forgot the name because i know nothing about cars, i just watched videos over and over. Throttle body. Thats it. Clean the throttle body for 199. All equaling 3600. I couldnt figure out how she did her math. Trust me i asked. Hense my call to Toyota headquarters. I Just wanted my car fixed nowcheck engine light back on with vsc off and squiggly line light. Im thinking cat. My question to you is how do you feel about catclean. I'd rather things and then I read bad things and I know nothing. Sorry it was so long. You seem like an honest gentleman that really calmed me. So much good info. I really live the suv. But, im so afraid they put little bobby traps in there and little by little i will pay again for calling toyota. I hope we dont need a new cat. We are now getting the dreaded po420 code. The car was light free then when my father passed away he drove from Louisiana to florida. Lights came on. I read somewhere that cats need to be warmed up to read properly and the fact they were about 600 miles warmed up that it was that. The cat is the reason for the check engine the vsc off and the sqiggles. I will never go back to that Toyota dealership ever again. I think its a shame because they lost someone that could have been a lifetime customer. It also makes me sad that human being could treat each other with such distain and in this world of technology , lack of morality, lack of the golden rule teachings and the religion of be good in your heart thats all that matters is gone. Texting a customer is apauling and shifty. Have the guts to use your voice before we lose sight of this beautiful world where life is so precious and short. I am 57 my dad was only 82. But , i still felt 12 around him. He knew how to do everything. I will forever be changed by his loss. People like you are one in a million. The way you teach is inspiring. Thank you.
Me being a backyard mechanic appreciates videos like this thanks
Facts
Glad it helped!
Try changing Cabin Filter if you have rough idle issues when turning On AC. I have a 230K mileage lexus is250 that has a P0113 misfire and rough idles on R/D/AC On. Saw a video and manually cleaned carbon buildup on valves > cleaned fuel injector > cleaned spark plugs, throttle body and replaced engine and cabin filter. Now my car runs like Brand New! Thanks!
How did you clean the fuel injectors
. Manually cleaning the valves is tricky. Luckily enough, Tiny "valve fairies" keep our cars in tip-top shape.
I’m sorry but changing out your cabin air filter will not affect ur car engine what’s so ever
The only video I've watched on TH-cam that really talks about all elements that could cause rough idling. Thank you for your amazing content.
Went to school for automotive been working on car since I was 12 you're very talented in relaying what you're doing in a non car person way Ida learn how to dumb it down great video
Appreciate the knowledge fam. Had a rough idle in my SRT 392. Put half a can of sea foam and filled the tank now it’s running smooth again.
Sweet! love the easy fixes
Thank you for your videos bud! I got into a bad accident and a lady destroyed my car , i bought a used Matrix while insurance and Lawyers settle the situation. These videos are a blessing.
This was the most useful video I've seen so far about a car
Just remember all rubber needs to be new and soft because it directly connects to your butt and spine.
The more I watch videos on all the things that can go wrong and how much it costs to get it fixed on these wretched cars, I see the magic in the unsung simplicity and reliability of a bicycle.
agree. but the problem is i can't even go 50mph 😊
Hey man this is great because I had those problems with my car before I watched your videos but now you've opened my eyes and saved me a lot of bucks, I'm now able to do all what you myself. Thanks.
#bucks!
Thank you Scotty! I'm able to follow along and diagnose my Mercedes E 500 and do my own repairs ....saving me a fortune! I appreciate you and all your videos.
Great to hear!
Can’t thank you enough for the list of items I can methodically go through and check just as you did. You explain it in such a fashion along with brilliant video cut aways, close-ups that allow me to follow you without any confusión. You’re clearly a fantastic communicator on this channel. I’ll continue to follow you as I want to take care of my overpriced car. Cheers dude!
Thank for the feedback, always great to hear!
Thanks! I love doing things myself and you maybe just saved me a couple hundred bucks 😮💨🙏🏾 please keep doing what you do!!
Thank you!
This is a great work. Thanks for sharing. This video helps people like me who only has 2 choices either walk to everywhere or fixing my broken car. Again thanks.
Thank you for this video. As a girlie girl, I've always wanted to know how engines work for when I have car trouble, I'll know which part they are talking about. I wouldn't mind taking a mechanics class also. This also puts my faith back in mechanics also; now that I now it could be more than one thing, that he's not just money gouging me.
Excellent description. Even a non englishman can understand your talking quite easily. Kudos man! Subscribed..
He said spark plugs but forgot to mention the ignition coils. If your coil is bad your spark will have an issue.
If it’s burning oil too blow by through the rings you never get rid of the misfire foul plugs all day.
Sparks are easier to check for beginners (dirt, grease or else) while coils aren't into the same form from a car to another (ramp or individual coils)
Coils are easier to chexk than spark plugs. You literally have to remove the coil to get to the spark plug. If you have a scan tool you can switch coils to see if anything changes. Also you can use a tester and test the coil.
@@hioshimtsu yeah but it's visually easy to tell for a spark, if sparks are good, chances arz the coils are blown
If your coils are dead, how do you immediately know they're faulty if yoyr sparks are dirty?
@@hioshimtsu not if your car has a distributor, then it gets a whole lot more complicated replacing the entire thing.
Thank you for this great video. It was really helpful. My wife Infinity was shaking violently and kept stalling. It turned out the connector to the air system was loose. Thank you! You saved us thousands of dollars in repair.
Great job!!
Do you know what that part is called? Thanks
The name of the connector to the hose?
I think its called a "hose connector". Hope this helps.@@marleyproductiongaming
I am not savvy when it comes to cars, but I was able to completely follow along and not be overwhelmed or lost! THANK YOOU! 🙌🏼❤️
Wow, this guy knows his stuff. That is a good friend to have!
My RP m's got very low while idling Took everything apart and cleaned throttle out little cleaning fixed it. Saved lots of $
Finallllyyyy someone that got into detail and diagnosed a bunch of problems every other TH-cam video was trash but this one😆🔥🔥
People online have been saying watch out for throttle body closing at will and apparently it can take out a finger, even if the battery is disconnected. I haven't done it yet but just wanted to note that. Note sure if true but it does seem possible. So what you showed with using a toothbrush makes sense.
Wow. This guy is WAY better than the other car guys in TH-cam. Where the heck have you been? You have a new Subscriber sir!
You're such a naturally good speaker and knowing your stuff makes for a very impressive video.
I will call the f****** police on you dude
this will definitely help me, currently having issues with my car . so glad I came across this video and channel
I’m so happy I ran across your video. Your explanation on things is just perfect. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to do this stuff on my car. I’m not a mechanic. I do things on my car. I’m a woman with tools and know how to use them, your explanation I hope I can fix my car by myself. I think with your help I can think I could do it. I’ll let you know.
how was it?
😃 I started working on my own car recently and I enjoy doing it. This is a very informative video, thank you for sharing!
😄
What work have you done?
Hi Suly bolaños
Will marry me 💍 🛠️🏎️😍
@@goodtrip4201: Lol
Wow I'm so impressed the way how you explain things. Great job Teacher... Congrat.
Really good
Wow! Your intelligence helped me to be more self-sufficient...🙋♀️....As a female, I feel good when I'm learning to do it myself and don't have to ask anyone to help me....I'm educating myself to help others.......very helpful video...thank you sooo much.
Great video. I seen a guy clean his IAC with it still mounted. He removed the tube where it vents into the crankcase. While plugging the hole where the tube was attached with his finger he sprayed carb cleaner down through the throttle body into the IAC until it started to break up the carbon buildup. You can also tear the whole throttle body off and remove the IAC but, if you don't have to why? Thanks again.
5:25 Be careful using carb cleaner around your engine as it’s extremely flammable. Avoid spark plugs or anything electronic
Shut up
A misfire could be from a stuck open valve. In modern cars, you would just have a bent valve or it would have dropped down. You could also have a head gasket not torqued all the way, and you've lost compression. Rocker arms being too tight can push on the lifter, when set at an undesired valve lash. Spark plug could be loose in the hole, and little to no compression could be found. Bad piston rings could produce little to no compression. Always take off the valve cover and watch the rockers move.A bad harmonic balance, flywheel, or flex-plate could lead to knocking sounds, as well as unbalanced vibrations. A vacuum leak could cause vibrations (un-metered air entering intake manifold / carburetor).
Thanks for the extra info on things to consider
Stuck valves never happen, it's a myth
@@bonkeydollocks1879
LOL!
Dude the video title mention...Regular issues, those you mention are medium to big issues.
Get a scan tool and look at your fuel trims
Thank you sooo much for you for sharing your, knowledgeable, methodical, commonsense approach to this issue! Much appreciated is the quality of the video you made and your ability to clearly articulate the material you have presented. You did a fabulous job taking the "rocket" out of science!! Thank you again.
Trying to teach my son some basic engine/car stuff and this helped me help him. Thank you for taking the time to teach us.
Hey what's up how are I'll
Hello we changed out the spark plugs and the coils after some trouble shooting. Going to do the motor mounts this weekend thanks again
Thanks from Kenya,I love to deal with technical issues b4 I call in for help...wow this was a lesson on fuel and air systems maintenance..God bless you
Vb
I've watched so many videos to troubleshoot my rough idle for my brand new jeep compass. Thank you so much for a very detailed and helpful video. My spark plugs were to far apart. Thank you
Just started having this issue. I’m leaning towards the fuel system, but it’s great to know the other areas that maybe the culprit. Thanks for the insight!
Haha, thanks for naming the new F0RD, the Culprit.
@@TeknakillI imagine it would be made to compete with the Dodge Charger
Don't know where you're at in life now dude but this actually helped me out
I’m here reading your comment 😂 Glad I could help
My 2006 vibe had a terribly dirty air intake I took it all apart cleaned everything and new gaskets and starter when I get my stuff in the mail😁
I just had my exhaust on a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis worked on, by a custom exhaust specialist. The reason I took the car in is because the hangar broke and pipe began rubbing against the inside of the car. I also knew I had an exhaust leak most likely in the manifold. But there was no check engine light on and car started up beautifully, drove beautifully despite the ticking noise when accelerating. The mechanic also fixed the suspension, unrelated but definitely needed. I didn't replace the exhaust manifold because it is too big of a job and the mechanic was able to weld the tube as best he could, leaving only a very small leak. No more fumes, or ticking but now the car is vibrating during idle and check engine light on. I took it back it was for emissions and he said everything else seemed good, no misfires. But now the car is having trouble starting at times. I'm just gonna take it somewhere else which I would have done, but I heard these guys were cheaper because they can weld. It could be unrelated, but it seems too coincidental to me
The EGR valve/assembly can also get gummed up with carbon deposits, and is relatively simple to clean yourself.
Thats a Toyota Corolla Bro.
I like how you do teach, keep it going.
Gtg see some car at the garage.
Keep it safe, and God Bless.
Here is my situation:
There is no check engine light and the car starts fine but has rough idling in hotweather or after the 1st trip. So if you drive in the morning to get gas there are no issues, but after you start up your car again to leave the grocery store (2nd trip within a short amount of time) it starts idling low or bad.
The 2nd trip situation seems to fade with extended time. So if I go to work and then work my 8 hour shift and then leave, I dont notice it much unless its hot weather out.
Other things to note. My "charging system" failed when i had it tested, but my battery passed. I took out my alternator and my alternator passed the independent/isolated test on the machine at 2 auto stores.
I have an AC adapter that reads voltage and at stops/red lights it drops below 12v.
I will check the air lines though but wondered if there are other things to check.
Same issue, hope you fixed how can you explain me
One of the most informative videos I've come across.
Thanks for that 🤙🏽
Just an important thing to know: Seafoam should ONLY be used on regularly maintained/ late model cars (newer ones), otherwise it can cause too much space between the pistons and bore, leading to burning oil. It'd be great before an engine rebuild on an old car, but if you have an older car - and you're not planning on doing an engine overhaul - then stay away from it. Everything will leak afterwards.
What do you mean by older? Like 20 years old or 50 years old?
@@chikechovis2499
*Is all am thinking!*
Sometimes cars older than 10 years are considered “old.” Sometimes 15+, Sometimes 20+ or like you said, sometimes 50! lol. So this the first question in my mind as well after I read the comment!
@@letscuthairtoday9038 yea I have a 68 plymouth fury that was taken great care of and runs great I use seafoam in it regularly, I just purchased a 99 honda prelude that's was sitting around for a bit and was leaking oil bad I used seafoam in that to hope it doesn't get worse.
Does marvel mystery oil have the same discrepancy? Thanks
I’ve started stp fuel treatment once a week or so during fill up and I have been noticing the thing DRINKING oil. Mech said no external leak so could that be why? Idk. Going through a quart about every 1k miles.
Study Notes:
#1 Check motor mounts
#2 Inspect spark plugs
#3 Check Air filter, Hoses, Vacuum, clean throttle body, mass air flow
#4 Fuel System, fuel treatment, fuel onjectors, valve cleaner
Belts, Harmonic balancer
Timing belts changed
Very helpful. Thanks.
Good video man you've confirmed all my suspicions. I learned about one more cause from you and that's the vacuum leaks and i thank you.
Hello. This video was very clear for me, a 50 year old lady. My Mustang is making a ticking noise and the car shakes. It does this when the fan comes on…. Please any advice needed. Since hearing the video, I’m thinking it’s motor mounts but like I said, I know for a fact it does this only when the engine fan comes on.
Great video! Such awesome advice and seafoam has been keeping my cars running great for decades now.
First TH-cam mechanic I considered subscribing to
Thanks 🤙🏽
Bro, you're a good Teacher.. 👍🏼
Thank you so much! I found that the pipe leading from the airbox to the engine was torn... I could't understand why the car sounded so good suddenly, but was jerkey at idle and acceleration. Thank you!
Great video but just a tip, check your idle air control valve first. More often than not this is the culprit and by starting with this first you may potentially save a lot of time and effort trying to find the problem.
How How do you even check the IAC? I removed mine and I cleaned it out But that doesn't really help if there's an underlying electrical issue that needs to be Resolved
@@macknumber9 To check whether the idle air control valve is functioning properly, start the engine and let it run for about 10 to 15 minutes. If the valve is functioning correctly, the engine will sound good and the idle will be steady versus too high, too low, or inconsistent. Additionally, using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the (IAC) valve. Resistance should be 10 - 14 ohms. Depending on the model this could even be 7 - 25 ohms. Check the specifications for your specific vehicle. If you can't tell by listening or don't want to mess with learning how to measure ohms and all that stuff, just simply replace it with a new one. They can be expensive depending on the vehicle. I can get mine for about $30 online. I have seen them for $100 or more on other cars. Either way, these things usually last for a long time, so by replacing it, you'll be doing yourself a favor in the long run. If money is an issue, you could always buy one, install it and see if that fixes the problem. If not, then as long as you're careful with it, you should be able to return it and get your money back. Most car parts stores won't let you return electrical parts if they have been installed. So just try to not scratch, ding, or otherwise make it obvious that it was installed and you should be ok.
@mystery dude yeah my car idles perfect it does what it should do when it starts up rpms are about 1200 like they should be to help the car warm up and then they drop gradually....sometimes as they drop it does slightly surge up but it ends up going down and idling at a steady rpm that is around 700....my issue is I feel these little slight shakes...they come and go and I feel them more in park than I do in drive so I don't think it is mounts
@@macknumber9 honestly the shake could be anything. It could be the fan kicking on, bad spark plug or wire, or even a sticking valve.
@@mysterydude1 well it isn't a sticking valve because vacuum is 100% perfect steady at idle....I think it is an injector flow problem...of not injector has to be either mount or harmonic balancer...
This is excellent video. I usually watch most videos from Schrodingers Box, Scotty Kilmer, Chrisfix, ETCG, Ratchet &Wrenches ... u r good.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Wow man ur Genius I will try this on my Corolla I am getting rough idle sometimes
Specially when Ac is on 😊☺️😊
I get the exact same thing on my corolla occasionally
@@suee71 I was getting rough Idle when I fueled up for a few miles after, then when I turned on my AC and heater.
Your on point. My filter hose is fd up like what you mentioned. Same with the motor mounts. The sparkplugs needs changing as well. Whew. 2003 Honda Accord, we will make it through 2021, I trust you.
I am back in this video after my Trailblazer went shaking violently wow
thanks Josh, this is the video i've been searching for years, as i was researching i probably found many of the causes separetly but never a good well rounded explanation with examples like yours.
about the electronic throtle body, never knew you cant move it fortunately mine didnt breake when i held it open with my fingers and cleaned with wet wipes, it cleaned out nicely and the issue is gone, the idle is much better now as befor it used to go up and down a lot with the hot engine never after a cold start with the check engine ligth and the code for barometric pressure in the intake manifold.
still got a little bit of vibration/shakiness gonna have to check some things from your list if not it might be from the torque converter as i understand it can also cause vibration and shaking
i have a 3.2 fsi a6 c6
thanks again for a greate video!
Thanks for the vedeo..really great 👍
Frank speech
Good professional explanation, thank you very much and wish you all the best with such educational videos.
5:13 NEVER use carburetor cleaner to detect leaks. Carburetor cleaner can be corrosive and should be used carefully. It can damage rubber, plastics, painted surfaces, and electrical components.
What should you use?
Soapy water is okay@@52blackshadow
@@52blackshadowgin 😅
I had it
I changed the air filter which was trribbly dirty. Slowly and gradually idle improved
Your videos are very helpful! I am not a mechanic but your videos are very educating. Thank you
What about radiator hoses? I spent a fortune trying to fix lack of power and rough idle in my car, replace the catalyzer...did not help, full tune up...also did not help. Righ now I have my car in the mechanic to replace radiator hoses that looks in bad shape, hope that solve the problem. Thank you for sharing this very informative video.
Also check if the engine is getting enough volts. Sometimes the alternator is bad or the alternator regulator is bad and sending too much volts which is very rare.
How do you check that if there's no guage?
Thanks for this informative input, one of the best videos on TH-cam.
Wow, thanks!
Found this video precise adn to the point. Nothing like those who waffle along and take detours to get to the main points.
Thanks and earned a new sub. Great work
He is good, really appreciate his talent. Enough guidelines for those who really want to improve themselves. ❤
Good stuff💯 Id trust him more than a certified mechanic😂😂
I have a toyota rav4 2001 model and it started to give me this problem . Thanks for this will let my husband check everything 😅
For a vibration. In drive at idle. The HARMONIC BALANCER / DAMPENER IS VERY SUSPECTED. ALSO FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE OR TORQUE CONVERTER MISSING COUNTER WEIGHTS MISSING
Explain more please
Hey can you do a video on this. I would appreciate
Thank you! I'm very afraid of trying to do any of this myself but i have a used car that just started doing this. Although it's very weak at this point I don't have any money for another car or for having to pay for an expensive repair so I'm desperate enough to try and diagnose the issue on my own. I really hope I can figure it out.
Thanks for this point. why do my engine rpm drops below 1 at interval especially when the engine is heated and the AC on in traffic
It's easy to see cracked or broken motor mounts, but sometimes they're saggy or hard as rock so also check for that. Sometimes people will just do a visual without checking for anything else. You can poke them with a screwdriver to check for stiffness or even too soft.
Thank you. I know nothing about cars but you made this easy.
❤thanks a lot .. so I can really understand what the scanner said about my sensors and rough idili..thank you a lot ..I left my Captiva sport 2012 to be fix tune up and change Battery.im a 64 year old female and too hard for me do it and don't know, but love the way you explain in details..God keep you bless
Informative and to the point. Wish my mustang plugs were as accessable as yours because that's what I suspect is contributing to my shaking while in gear with acceleration lacking in power.
Wouldn't the plug wires also be suspect?
excellent breakdown of potential issues, thank you sir.
Welcome!
Hey, I really enjoy your videos. They are very informational.
I have a 2008 Audi A6, 3.2 Quattro. I have been receiving misfire codes for some coils, I replaced all plugs and coils-still continuing to get a misfire code for my #2 cylinder. I get an ESP light, ABS light, and check enginie light after getting to 3,000-3,500 RPMs-then my car shakes. Any help please!
My mechanic is stumped.
some COP coil on plug ignition coils use a spring to make contact with the coil . When you remove one to change the plug , check for burning / arcing on the insulation . If you see any burning , you can pull the insulation off and see the damage inside
My car would shake and sputter around low rpm and mph (2-7). I put fuel injector cleaner in with half a tank gas, gave it a while and reved it a little, and now the shakes are gone.
are the shakes and vibrations still gone ? thinking bout giving that a try on my 05 honda accord
@@plutodread97 I think the car has issues but no mechanic has ever found anything wrong. However, I recommend it because it cleans your car out
I need a mechanic like you 😢
Eh baddahood good stuff I appreciate your knowledge on mechanic kine tings mahalo nui aloha 🤙🏽
Shoots!
You mentioned spark plugs but didn't talk about spark plug wires which can need replacing on older cars. My 1997 Toyota Corolla needed replacement of both spark plugs and the spark plug wires. Problem fixed!
If your car's engine misfires and gets bogged down or stalls when stopped at a traffic light but runs good otherwise, spend $8 and buy a small bottle of Lucas Deep Clean fuel injector cleaner with up to 15 gal of gas. Add all the contents into your gas tank filler neck and then add some more fuel to distribute it in the tank. I used it with 10 gallons. It was amazing how quickly it worked for me, like right away. That told me the culprit was one or more carbonized fuel injector tips without doing anything else except checking for vacuum leaks first, which will have a whistling or sucking sound. Anyone can do this and it has worked for me on other cars. 😊
Thank you I have been losing my mind trying to figure this out will give that a shot tomorrow
@@jbutton15 make sure to check for vacuum leaks first while the engine is running. The small bottle is good for up to 15 Gallons of gas. May require two treatments or use every couple thousand miles.😉
Hi ! A Riddle !……..Strong vibration inside car. Exhaust rattles many years. New motor mounts and transmission mount did nothing. Was aftermarket parts. The car vibrates much less when it is warm out, and virtually no vibration when it is raining. Is vibrates both in park, and drive, in neutral, driving at the speed, sitting at a traffic light in Park, or in the gear. Again, with warm weather much less. And with the rain, virtually no vibration. For Many years.
Wow that’s a great riddle! The humidity/temp thing makes me feel that’s it’s an air/fuel mix problem. Any engine codes? Vacuum system has many parts but I wonder if there’s something going on there. Check for cracked vacuum lines
I feel like even though I have a new engine mounts and new transmission mount three years ago, (didn’t do anything good then) , maybe they weren’t good? today I propped up the transmission pan about 1 to 2 inches, and the steering wheel and idle still was shaking. same amount) but for some reason I feel like it still is the transmission mount. The (new parts) Volvo 940 transmission square mounts (some models take circular ) seem to protrude past outer metal frame. mine seems slightly at level. propping tran Pan didn’t stop vibration though. large muffler shake in gear standing still. and driving. and at idle noticeable. car shakes vibrates all rpm. accelerating abd at certain rpm it’s vibrating more. i put a harbor freight vacuum gauge on it. i got ….. “””At idle engine speed the gauge pointer pulsates, but at higher speeds the pointer is steady, this could be an indication of loose valve stem guides.”””.
But shouldn’t a shake be absorbed by engine and tran mounts. I sprayed car w brake cleaner while running. minor barely noticeable dip. at exhaust manifold. cylinder 2. cylinder 4 spark plug for was oily and black. car feels strong and great other than major vibration. no engine codes. obd 1. 1993 volvo 940. maybe it is the transmission mount?
and w heavy rain. barely vibrates.
also. i did spray cleaner into air intake and cleaned IAC. also this vibration did Not go away 3 years ago. before was there an after was there for timing belt water, pump, and harmonic, balancer change, and also after knew of timing, belt and water pump and harmonic, balancer change, same vibration. Although I would say that the harmonic balancer, it looks a little off at the moment, but remember this all disappears with a very heavy rain.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do."
One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them.
I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
Did it fix the way your car was running before? Having the computer reprogrammed? Cause I have changed the coils and plugs and a lot more on my Ford Mustang and it’s still rough idling and I don’t know what to do
@@aaronortiz5753 Thanks for your question Aaron. Absolutely, find a Ford / Lincoln dealer that offers the service of reprogramming your computer.
In South Florida, I was very surprised as to how a good number of Ford Dealerships seemed to have no clue about reprogramming the main computer. One dealership near my house had the car a full day and never did anything to the car. They said it probably needs a new computer and that since Ford no longer sells a replacement, I was out of luck.
I got a similar response from several other dealers. Pines Ford in Pembroke Pines FL does reprogram main computers. I had it done twice. Before the second reprogramming, I specifically asked them to change any coils that were not replaced on the previous visit, which completely solved the problem. They replaced a vacuum hose and one coil connection as well. If you find a Ford dealer that tells you the main computer can't be reprogrammed, or that they do not do that, find another Ford dealer.
My guess is that most general repair shops don't have bi-directional scanners. Auto parts stores will rent or sell scanners, but these are generally just for diagnosis. They can detect a problem with a particular cylinder misfiring. They do not however have the capability to do much more to your computer than to shut off the engine light. Once that light goes off, it will eventually go back on if the problem has not been solved.
If your AC compressor has stopped working, having the computer reprogrammed may reactivate the AC compressor.
Bidirectional scanners are a more expensive scanner, which requires a Ford subscription. This type of scanner has the ability to re-program the main computer. It probably requires a specific process, so it's not the type of thing I would purchase myself, or attempt to do myself. A Ford dealer who reprograms computers should have all the right equipment and be familiar with the process involved. BTW, I got a lot of this information from a Ford Master Tech. I told him how I had replaced a lot of parts, coils, plugs, and carburetor parts, but my engine light would still come back on, and the car had jerky acceleration, etc. He immediately mentioned having the main computer reprogrammed. He also said that the AC compressor shutting down is typical. The main computer shuts the AC compressor down to protect it until ignition problems are resolved.
@@tompastian3447
Thank u man! I appreciate it. I did take it to a dealership already but they told me that I need a new computer, they didn’t say anything of reprogramming so I’m guessing they don’t do that. And yeah also my A/C isn’t working which was really weird to me since the A/C doesn’t really have to do anything with the engine acting weird, but now that u are telling me it’s because of the main computer then all makes sense. I did get diagnostics and it said u had like 3 misfires and did everything I could to fix it but it’s still the same. I well make sure to find a dealership that will do the reprogramming. Thank u so much for responding!
@@aaronortiz5753 Yes, find a more competent dealership. You might try looking up Lincoln Dealers in your area. Just a stab in the dark, but maybe since they service the higher end Ford vehicles, they might be more likely to have Ford's correct diagnostic equipment. Another thing about people who tell you that the main computer may need to be replaced, even if that was true, a replacement computer also has to be programmed after it's installed. You can't just stick in a new computer, or pull one out of a junk yard from another vehicle and expect the car to run right. What city and state do you live in ? VERY IMPORTANT, when they reprogram your computer, it requires 2 ignition keys.
Be sure to supply the dealership with two keys, or they may have to charge you to make a second key.
@@tompastian3447 gotcha!! I will try looking for some around here. Yeah that’s what I thought, because I was like why get another computer if they are gonna do the exact same thing to the one I already have on my car. And I live in Maryland. And gotcha I will make sure to get 2 keys!
Thanks!
You're welcome, and thanks!
We really appreciate your time and expertise, I was told it might be the compressor, when I took my car to an auto store to have the battery and alternator checked for my 2016 Nissan Versa, when I explained that the car shakes when the ac is on and the car is idle,
Your videos are very educational
I’m 71 yr grandmother
I wish I would have taken auto classes in high school instead of cooking and sewing
Glad you’re liking them! Let me know if you do any projects on your car!
After watching this I felt like i could be a mechanic because you explained everything so perfectly! Question though, I've had someone look at it and they said the belt tensioner might need to be replaced. I phoned another mechanic, without having looked at it, they said it could be the alternator.
Here are the symptoms my car is experiencing:
1. vibrations while idling
2. vibrations while using electronics (windows, A/C, etc)
3. random dashlights flashing (ie: passenger air bag, cruise, cruise set, and more recently battery light and ebrake light).
From these symptoms would you be more inclined to say its the alternator, battery or belt tensioner? Or something I didn't mention?
Sounds like you are definitely low on power. If it were me I'd take it down to your local auto shop, most will test the battery and alternator for free. I suppose a tensioner could also cause a lack of power if it wasn't keeping the belt tight enough to properly spin the alternator but that's a bit less likely. You can always some back and check that afterwards.
Almost positive your alternator is failing. You can get it check free at many auto parts store
Wow, thank you for sharing your pictures an teaching on how to fix your vehicle!
Very honestly and perfectly explained. Thank.
Thank you! My car is in the shop right now. Looking for some knowledge before they call to give me a diagnosis. I would love to know if this is the order they will check and how will I know they didn't just find a loose plug but want to replace the cylinder? I'm so skeptical. 🙄
Bad news they charged me for cleaning the throttle body butterfly and then suggested I replace might want to replace the EGR valve. They said he wasn't sure really so maybe I should wait until a code comes up and bring it back then. Do mechanics only know what to do if a code tells them first? 🤔
Great guide! Very clear and well put together video. Subscribed.
I love all this information. It helps me to understand what needs to be done less money.
Great!
Thank you so much for this video! It’s very helpful and confirms everything I was thinking. I have a car that has a vibration/shake (rattles the doors sometimes) when stopped, and I took it back to the dealership when it needed the AC compressor replaced and mentioned it to them. They did nothing about it and pretty much ignored it. Now I’m trying to figure it out myself. I’m about to replace the spark plugs first, hoping this fixes the problem since it didn’t appear to be the motor mounts.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do."
One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them.
I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
@@tompastian3447 Thanks! I’ll keep that in mind!
@@tompastian3447 Fords are Nazis
@@kushkushogbomb1589 Owning 4 Mercurys, I think they conspire with each other as to how they can break down to keep me from driving them. Funny you mention Nazis. One episode of Hogan's Heros showed a German ambulance entering Stalag 13. It was a 46 Ford painted to look like a German ambulance. Guess Bing Crosby Productions didn't have access to any old Mercedes ambulances.
Aloha, Josh! I took my car in for service because it was having a slow start. 2005 Pontiac Vibe with 175K miles. They ran diagnostics and determined I needed a new starter. Also, it was a quart low on oil and overdue for an oil change, so they did that as well. When I picked up the car, the manager said my car was "shaking like a leaf" and said the engine mounts might be going bad. The car WASN'T DOING THAT WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN! I am stumped. After watching this informative video, I'm wondering if dirt or debris could have gotten into the system when they were doing the oil change. Someone was using a lawn maintenance blower in the bay to clean up the floor next to my car. What are your thoughts? Mahalo!
My Camry is shaking after having the alternator fixed
Thank you for breaking everything down. Great video!
Very indepth video, I'll try these. Thank you 😊
🤙🏽