The heater problem is easy to solve, just turn it on half an hour before you start a print, you can get aquarium thermometers that stick to the vat that'll show the rein temperature
Yeah, my printer idles at about 24C a few minutes after booting up, and reaches the mid 40s during printing. And this is in December in Sweden standing by an open window. I don't think the temperature is a big issue. I'm more worried about what it will be like in the summer.
Excellent review, showing the problems users will have when printing in cold temperatures, and the great solutions you’ve used to help solve the problems, especially those initial “base or burn-in” layers at the start of a print. Warm resin is the ticket, but I’ve mused or fantasized about how much of an assist it would be to ALSO have a “heating element” built into te “build plate” itself. If you think about it, let’s say your “man cave” is cold, but you have a printer like the GK 2, with an “under screen” heater, or you have the Heygears RS with the “vat heater”. So, your resin gets warmed up nicely, but your build plate (being a large slab of aluminum or stainless steel, which is a large thermal “heat sink”) is dang cold. Even if the build plate gets dipped in and out of the resin vat several times, either before or during the critical “base layer adhesion” or base-layer-curing period, the build plate is cold and will quickly cool down the resin that touches it. I can’t imagine this resin “thermal shock” is helpful for “base layer adhesion” to the build plate. So, having a temp-controlled heating element in the build plate seems like a wise addition, if it could be added by printer manufacturers in the future.
Elagoo has already introduced vat heater in their yet to release 16K Saturn 4 Ultra (formnext reveal) and I'm sure they have something for future Mars Ultra series too. The major problem I see is the placement of the peel force sensor. If it was a standard bulid plate lift only mechanism then yes, the force sensor is in the right place but that is not the case with the ultra series with it's tilting vat mechanism. As the build plate moves up during printing process so will the peel force variations due to the printed part build height stiffness and that makes the measurement inconsistant and inaccurate. The ideal place to install the force sensor should be close to the vat tank and tilt mechanism interface. It can not only measure the peel force accurately and consistantly but also measure the weight of the resin in the vat tank. What do you think?
Great review! Same problems I was having, heat, didn't even cross my mind as I've had mine a couple of weeks and when it turned cold, started having the issues but again, didn't even cross my mind. Have 1 on order. Tried to use your link for the heater but says none available to ship to US. Had to order off Amazon US. Thanks for the lesson!!
Hey Greedy - nice video. I was just wondering - I live in the Northwest of England and I too have my printer pretty much in a shed so I assume my printer currently has to cope with similar temperatures to yours. I have a GK2 which generally does okay but my next print will be pretty much the first time I've ever printed at temperatures as low as they are currently are. On my previous printer I had no real heating option so I simply didn't bother come autumn/winter. And so I just wondered - how do you actually store your resin when not in immediate use? I'm a bit worried now that if I leave the resin in the shed will it end up being not useable if it gets below freezing? I can store it in the house and our kids are old enough now that they'd know not to mess with stuff like that even if they knew where it was, but I'd still rather keep it in the shed if I can.
I've always stored my resin outside and the temperatures haven't seen to affected it I just make sure I Give It a really good shake before I use it and then let the printers with heaters warm it up before use I've never really had a problem with it to be honest
@@greedy3d480 Brill - cheers for the reply. That's given me a bit of relief over the half bottle I've had sitting out there now! I should really start with something small anyway just to make sure everything hunky dory since the machine was last used - nothing worse than setting off a big 10 hour job only to come back to a failed print!
I'm like you, north east uk, have elegoo saturn and anycubic m3 max with mini heaters and issues in cold temperatures. I keep warming the resin in warm water.
Just got this one and set everything up, tried to print twice and got nothing. Did the updates and all but Empty build plate. So frustrating as everbody on YT is having straight out of the box success.
The heater problem is easy to solve, just turn it on half an hour before you start a print, you can get aquarium thermometers that stick to the vat that'll show the rein temperature
Good idea
Yeah, my printer idles at about 24C a few minutes after booting up, and reaches the mid 40s during printing. And this is in December in Sweden standing by an open window. I don't think the temperature is a big issue. I'm more worried about what it will be like in the summer.
Excellent review, showing the problems users will have when printing in cold temperatures, and the great solutions you’ve used to help solve the problems, especially those initial “base or burn-in” layers at the start of a print. Warm resin is the ticket, but I’ve mused or fantasized about how much of an assist it would be to ALSO have a “heating element” built into te “build plate” itself. If you think about it, let’s say your “man cave” is cold, but you have a printer like the GK 2, with an “under screen” heater, or you have the Heygears RS with the “vat heater”. So, your resin gets warmed up nicely, but your build plate (being a large slab of aluminum or stainless steel, which is a large thermal “heat sink”) is dang cold. Even if the build plate gets dipped in and out of the resin vat several times, either before or during the critical “base layer adhesion” or base-layer-curing period, the build plate is cold and will quickly cool down the resin that touches it. I can’t imagine this resin “thermal shock” is helpful for “base layer adhesion” to the build plate. So, having a temp-controlled heating element in the build plate seems like a wise addition, if it could be added by printer manufacturers in the future.
Add grip tape to the build plate and it won't slip from your hand.
Great idea
Elagoo has already introduced vat heater in their yet to release 16K Saturn 4 Ultra (formnext reveal) and I'm sure they have something for future Mars Ultra series too. The major problem I see is the placement of the peel force sensor. If it was a standard bulid plate lift only mechanism then yes, the force sensor is in the right place but that is not the case with the ultra series with it's tilting vat mechanism. As the build plate moves up during printing process so will the peel force variations due to the printed part build height stiffness and that makes the measurement inconsistant and inaccurate. The ideal place to install the force sensor should be close to the vat tank and tilt mechanism interface. It can not only measure the peel force accurately and consistantly but also measure the weight of the resin in the vat tank. What do you think?
I am new to 3d printing and have this printer. I have had success with putting a brew belt around the resin vat and heating the resin that way.
Our boy greedy got big shout outs from fauxhammer this morning
Lol....ah you noticed
Great review! Same problems I was having, heat, didn't even cross my mind as I've had mine a couple of weeks and when it turned cold, started having the issues but again, didn't even cross my mind. Have 1 on order. Tried to use your link for the heater but says none available to ship to US. Had to order off Amazon US. Thanks for the lesson!!
Glad it helped ☺️
Hey Greedy - nice video. I was just wondering - I live in the Northwest of England and I too have my printer pretty much in a shed so I assume my printer currently has to cope with similar temperatures to yours. I have a GK2 which generally does okay but my next print will be pretty much the first time I've ever printed at temperatures as low as they are currently are. On my previous printer I had no real heating option so I simply didn't bother come autumn/winter. And so I just wondered - how do you actually store your resin when not in immediate use? I'm a bit worried now that if I leave the resin in the shed will it end up being not useable if it gets below freezing? I can store it in the house and our kids are old enough now that they'd know not to mess with stuff like that even if they knew where it was, but I'd still rather keep it in the shed if I can.
I've always stored my resin outside and the temperatures haven't seen to affected it I just make sure I Give It a really good shake before I use it and then let the printers with heaters warm it up before use I've never really had a problem with it to be honest
@@greedy3d480 Brill - cheers for the reply. That's given me a bit of relief over the half bottle I've had sitting out there now! I should really start with something small anyway just to make sure everything hunky dory since the machine was last used - nothing worse than setting off a big 10 hour job only to come back to a failed print!
I'm like you, north east uk, have elegoo saturn and anycubic m3 max with mini heaters and issues in cold temperatures. I keep warming the resin in warm water.
well thought out review
Thank you
Just got this one and set everything up, tried to print twice and got nothing. Did the updates and all but Empty build plate. So frustrating as everbody on YT is having straight out of the box success.
Is screen working ? Did you try the rook test
@@greedy3d480 the screen is working and I didn’t try the rook test but I tried to print other things and they just end up smashed on the fep