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Very helpful video! I just downloaded the app and will review, but do you happen to have the printer settings you used with the Wargamer resin? I'm struggling to dial that in with my Mars 4 Ultra
This is one reason i respect Siraya Tech and use their resin. They straight up said that 4k and 8k resin are just bs marketing terms but they had to put that on their newer bottles because people use that in their search terms, but it means nothing and theres nothing different about the resin.
Yeah, if you cant beat the marketing, you might as well be honest about it. “Hey, this industry is full of charlatans. Somehow, we all make the same product, but fluff it up. Anyway, here is our product, not much different from the competition.”
I use Siraya tech too bc the reviewer from CNET uses it to test printers. Never done me wrong and everyone I’ve done commissions for says it’s the best quality and durability they’ve seen. Recently put it up against Elegoo’s 3.0 and think I still prefer siraya tech. Now gonna put it up against Sunlu too. Would love to support wargamer and Fauxhammer and water washable would be a dream, but idk how I could justify the cost. Killer vid as always, but esp this one!!
@@CalAndAly Siraya for the win - but, beware of the waterwashable resins in general. Really read about it before purchase, bcs there is just too many things you have to follow or you will end up with a sticky print. Like - don´t wash it too long. Don´t leave it in cleaning solution for too long. They recomend 15% alcohol solution for cleaning. Dry it quickly. Wash it mutliple times. It absorbs water from whatever source. Don´t cure it wet etc. It´s like..so much hassle. Honestly, I just came back to normal resin and clean with IPA in a ziplock bag.
I saw a reddit post of someone accidentally scratching their eye after having resin on their hands and they went blind in that eye, at least temporarily. Not sure if the vision came back or not... the shots of him pouring the resin in the shot glass without any gloves was sketchy, to say the least.
Thank You! Honestly the undercoating is such an important step for making comparisons. So many channels just look at the darker tinted 8k resin and go 'oh yeah thats better'. 10/10 mate, keep em coming.
Resin manufacturer here: in the early days high detail resin were somewhat justified as they used pigments to block light and prevent overcuring with cheaper base resins and photoinitiators. But nowadays any Quality resin will give you the max detail a given machine can fabricate. if the manufacturer uses a good base resin and high quality photoinitiator ,you can expect the max amount of details once you dialed in the settings for your machine. Great job on comparing the models. fyi: i make professional engineering Resin, might also be interesting for Wargaming because of its durability. edit:spelling
Thanks for jumping in here! Always a treat to hear direct from the people behind these products. I would of course be interested in looking at engineering resins also, but here on this channel one of the biggest factors for consideration on any product shown here is the price, and in my experience engineering resins don't come cheap! We wargamers do love saving a buck on our miniatures haha.
The kind of resin that is usually used for engineering purpose is... let's say a little bit expensive. 100 bucks a L... you almost reach GW price with that base material... No just kidding, no way near GW price lol
Is there anywhere to read up on Resin exposure dangers ? Alot of conflicting info out there. Gotten to the point I'm scared to run my printers anywhere inside the house.
@@mml3140 I wouldn't, without insane ventilation. I've read enough to make not not even consider a resin printer, anymore. There's some good info on reddit.
My only criticism is the WarGamer resin promo with water washable been remarked as a positive thing. It's 100% a horrible thing, as everyone, manufacturers, users, power users, commercial, when using water washable resins.. Pour that horrible toxic gunk straight into the drains and do not treat it or dispose of it correctly. This is because it literally tells you on the packaging, and the promo videos, and in FAR too many "reviewers" videos that you can use things like running water under a tap, etc.. The resin remains Toxic to Aquatic life in its uncured state, and itsn't filtered by waste water filtration systems. Other than that, thanks for making an awesome video, I'll definitely be sharing this whenever it's relevant to guide people away from stupid mistakes. This is something I've had to repeatedly explain to new users in forums, and it gets a little bit irritating that the crappy marketing tactics work so effectively, and hard to make people unlearn, same with teh KKK's that mean naff all to do with the actual size or quality of a printer etc Keep up the awesome and gruelling work, it's appreciated
Agreed! Never saw the point in water washable myself, but some folks refuse to steer away from it. I just ran a poll on my community page and it's currently sitting at 10% of participants putting water washable as the most important factor for their resin buying decisions. I'm working on a follow up video this month exploring a range of water washable resins at different price points to see if we can find a better value option than Wargamer, but also to raise the concerns you mention here and start a discussion around water washable vs alcohol.
@@OnceinaSixSide well the main point is not just that it's more convenient and safer to wash prints off with water, and so you don't need containers of flammable alcohol that could be an issue for younger people who's parents don't want them to have bottles of flamable liquid. But it also means it's also just easier to clean up accidents, which is also more convenient for beginners. But yeah in the long run beginners aren't going to be handling the waste water properly and it's harder to process than alcohol which evaporates at room temp. I think the ideal method is to use alcohol still to clean models, but having he water washable resin means you know if you ever spill some you can clean it with wet towels, then just cure them and dispose of them. Maybe a video about how to properly use water washable resin and processing the wash water would be helpful for the community.
@@ge2719they don't break down in water like regular toilet paper does, so they get caught in pipes and filters in the sewer system and waste treatment facilities. It doesn't clog your house's pipes to do one at a time but it can still cause issues in the system
tbh I'd pay $80 a kilogram if I could eat the supports off my models. I'm massively paranoid so I tend to oversupport a lot and they're an oddly snackable shape.
Could you do that with carmelized sugars? Have a bunch of sugar water instead of resin, and some way to I dunno lazer carmelize it or maybe with wave overlaps from high frequency sound emitters?
Great review! You have exposed a harsh truth, most of these resins are probably manufactured in the same two factories in Shenzhen with materials sourced from a single supplier in Guangzhou China. The same is true for most consumer goods today. The brand names differ but the manufactures are the same, the only variability is in quality of materials used and quality inspection regimes specified by the wholesale customer. Keep up the fine work.
"the only variability"? that covers more of the resin performance then the manufacturers, what difference does where it's made matter if the quality of materials and formulation are different.
There are definitely differences in some resins but most perform pretty close to the same. Surface hardness, Post processing shrinking and warping, Maximum Accuracy on XY while maintaining strength. Accuracy on Z (massive impact on quality). Elongation before breaking. Testing all of these is a pain and requires a very accurate printer that can push the resin to its edge. Often this means no ACF, No screen protector and a 3D printer with a very good lighting engine and a very low XY um LCD.
as someone from a colder climate, I use the chitubox heater. It works fine, the controls are a bit weird but it works. You also get ( or used to) a chitubox license with it. Awesome freaking tests man! really nice to see and especially nice to see you sharing the proof photo's with the webapp. I'm glad to know that I haven't bought into the marketing BS. The smell index is is appriciated. I got a very sensitive nose to chemical smells so I'm glad I got SUNLU abs-like. Haven't used it yet, but I'm hopefull.
if you have alot of issues with resins not sticking to the build plate or delamination, likely that is because they are high detail resins which have low bloom and therefore if you don't have enough wait time for the layers to settle to the right height before curing then they won't be able to cure to the previous surface because the distance is too great. On bottom layers without 40-60s wait before print the plate surface area can result in the first layers being as much as 5x what they should be! unfortunatly no consumer printer handles this properly on board, however printers that can do per layer settings (anycubic no, elegoo yes) can be edited with UV Tools to add a long wait wait time of say 40s the the first 0.5mm and then slowly transition to a normal wait of like 2-3s. This makes such a big difference that you can even drop base exposure to just 2-3x normal exposure for most resins and get no elephants foot or warping as a result for perfect direct printing. (high pigment resins will still require more exposure than this but you can still lower it by as much as half) Also 13:35 Did you calibrate with the heater? going from 22c to 37c is going to make a HUGE difference on exposure.
@@commonsense7754 yeha my m3 premium waits for 10s on base layers with that setting which helps a lot but sometimes it's not enough. Lower resin viscosity certianly helps with these sorts of issues so yeha heating can help a lot but that also affects exposure and it's unclear if he recalibrated after adding the heater
@@commonsense7754 The issue vat band heater is that it doesn't heat up the plate, so if you want to keep it the same temp as the resin, you need to park in the vat and keep there before starting a print Plus they also make emptying the vat more annoying. I prefer regular ambient heaters personally, much easier. Other than that, what Tom said.
00:00 🧼 Introduction of high precision and low shrinkage resin with sharper edges and finer details. 00:21 🎥 Introduction to the video content and its focus on testing various 3D printing resins. 00:39 🤔 Skepticism about the impact of 8K resin on print quality and its visibility to the naked eye. 01:18 💰 Presentation of four high-detail resins and their prices: eLux 8K, Frozen Aqua 8K, HeyGears Pap 10, and Wargamer. 02:00 🏷 Comparison with budget-friendly and durable resins: Sunlu ABS-like, Anycubic Standard, Siraya Tech Fast, and Uni Zmud. 02:57 🔍 Plan to test resins by tuning dimensional accuracy, printing the same models, and comparing under identical conditions. 03:51 🌡 Calibration of each resin to achieve dimensional accuracy before printing comparison models. 04:27 🖨 Use of Creality's Hallet Mage S printer for the tests, highlighting the need for better exposure calibration tools. 05:46 ⏱ Time-consuming process of running back-to-back calibration prints due to lack of exposure calibration feature. 07:04 ⚔ Selection of highly detailed miniature models for realistic resin comparison. 08:14 🛠 Steps of printing, cleaning, and assembling models for consistent comparison. 09:11 😣 Challenges with Uni Zmud resin, including adhesion and brittleness issues. 09:56 🔄 Frustrations with Frozen Aqua 8K resin and decision to switch printers for consistency. 10:58 🔧 Introduction of Anycubic Mono M5s Pro printer with efficient resin exposure calibration. 12:00 🛠 Recalibration and reprinting process for all resins using the new printer setup. 12:48 🎬 Smooth progress with the new printer, but continued challenges with Frozen Aqua 8K resin. 13:58 💡 Overview of the results, inviting viewers to join the community and support the channel. 14:09 🌐 Announcement of a web app for detailed side-by-side resin comparison and sharing findings. 15:22 🎨 Comparison of raw appearance and primed finish of different resins, showing minor differences in details. 16:08 🔍 Conclusion that the differences between high-detail and budget resins are minimal once painted.
Thank you for this detailed comparison, which confirms my suspicion that 12K resins are marketing bullshit. When I ordered my first "12k" resin from Siraya Tech for my first resin printer, I received "8k" resin instead. When I complained to customer service, they told me it was an old batch that hadn't yet received the new packaging, but it was the same thing. So there's no even hiding the fact that there's no difference between the resolutions.
Great video! Said it before and will say it again, I've definitely found the best resin for minis is Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. It's plenty tough for wargaming purposes, prints really fast, is VERY forgiving to print with and has beautiful details. I've switched over to it after I found other resins getting weirdly gummed up details on the support-facing side of parts. Also, whilst not quite as tough as some resins out there, it's also quite resistant to warping.
i 100% support durability and accuracy over 'speed' or "detail". Notice accuracy is not detail level, but the ability to actually dial in to say 0.01 accurate prints. (which, let's face it - just about every resin printer should be able to do) I mean you want your prints to be able to survive some dings and rattling around, to prevent the need for expensive cases and such to carry them around in, and , durable made minis tend to do better when you want to add physical wear, damage, or details of that nature. (instead of shattering or splitting)
This is extremely helpful, particularly for those of us who are extremely budget conscious, yet still want good looking miniatures. The priming step is a great idea for ensuring all things at the end are equal.
Fauxhammer left a bad taste in my mouth when he did a "3d printing in the cold" video, an issue I struggled with foe ages, and it was literally just a full video ad for a printer with a heating feature. No information or general help for dealing with lower temperatures.
Faux hammer leaves a bad taste in my mouth about once a month when whoever has decided to collaborate or send him free stuff suddenly becomes THE BEST PRINTER MANUFACTURER / RESIN MANUFACTURER/ PRINTING COMPANY IN THE WORLD!!!
@@Adam_Lynn He doesn't care and never will because consumers are not his audience. The businesses who's printers he is shilling are. His business model like so many other 3D printing channels is to get sponsorships from 3D printing companies so he can make money. You as a watcher are at best a product that he sells as part of his brand to interested businesses. As long as he gets paid to shill, the business is profitable and thus successful. This isn't even just a problem with 3D printing You Tubers. It's nearly all content creators with more than 10k followers.
Vat band heaters solve the issue. They don't regulate, so you have to dial it in, but they give you a stick on thermometer. It really helps prevent failure and improve consistency.
For the price alone I’ll never use anything other than sunlu. I can order 4 kilo at a time without beeing annoyed with the cost. Warhammer is twice the price of sunlu where I live.
That price looks less that you'll pay for PLA filament. Granted it doesn't account for cleaning supplies, but it seriously shifts the balance in favor of a resin printer.
Sunlu ABS-Like is my absolute favorite resin. I can say it does bloom out details a little even when well calibrated as compared to Siraya Tech Fast Navy (which I previously used), but I only print things I've sculpted myself, so I just carve my details a little deeper. But for durability it absolutely cannot be beat, it's tougher than a Tenacious mix, which is just about the most important factor for me, since I'm shipping my sculptures all over the world. Tenacious-laden sculpts would arrive with broken bits, I've never had a Sunlu print break during shipping.
I sometimes see sunlu abs-like for $20/kg. A third of the cost of wargamer. I used to wish they would finally ship wargamer resin to the U.S. just so I could try it, but after using Sunlu, I NOPED the fuck out of that prior wish for it, real quick.
A lot of people do not understand shrinkage so Your resin will continue to shrink even after your final cure. It takes about 2-3 days to settle. you can get it to happen a lot faster if you leave it in a heated chamber at upward of 50 C for roughly one hour. Meaning dimensional accuracy for a part just printed vs a few days later can be different. I have parts that when straight out of post-processing were the right size only to end up undersized a few days later because of that. So unless you let the resin settle your dimensional accuracy is moot. Also, most dimensional accuracy does not mean the best detail. more likely than not your prints are going to be over-exposed. So less detail. The way you would do this is you would dial in your printer for details then use scaling and other compensations for dimensional accuracy. This is not how you test for detail quality of the resin. Also 1/10 of a second is comparatively a lot when your exposure is 1 to 2 seconds that’s 5-10% more light. So depending on the resin and light bleed and other factors there is a lot of variance that can happen between what seems like minuscule differences
How do you dial it in for detail? Do you use specific tests and what are the primary parameters to focus on? Do you wait a few days before comparing them?
Thanks a lot for your work for the community! Personally, beside the resistance of the résine, a test I would be happy to see is how close a resin comes to be kibashed like plastic. Like cuting it and so on
The best resin I’ve ever used is Jamg He art-engineering resin. There’s a few TH-camrs talking about it, but in my mind, isn’t getting the love it deserves. I would love to see how it stacks up against the others
every qualification I have in health and safety and understanding of impressionable randoms (including errant kids/teens) on the internet is begging me to ask you to put a large disclaimer on the 'resin drinking' bit.
Thank you so much for this test! This means that i will still stand by Sunlu Abs like , it is affordable and even if a mini fell from the desk, it just broke off in the worst case on a contact point which has been glued with superglue . Sunlu is a sleeper company, most people dont even consider it as an option. This just proves that they are worthy ! Keep the good stuff coming dude !
Thanks for providing the little website and photos, always appreciate the due diligence you do. Also appreciate the shoutout to miniature horde, always on the lookout for more Aussie tabletop resources, it can be real hard to find shops that don't take the piss down here.
God, I love your little inserted skits. We know you aren't drinking the resin, but it was funny with the talking mini. I loved it more because channels are too afraid to even make jokes now.
Great video. Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it in the comments, or you're already aware of it, but UVTools has an an exposure finder that should work with any printer. I have one set up with 10 different exposures at 0.2s intervals, will find two of the best and then print the Amera town and a few other test models at the best one and 0.1s either side. That 0.1s can make a difference, but not enough for details at arms length. I've been using Sunlu ABS like with my Mars 3 Pro as it's cheap and reliable, won't switch unless I find something else better at the same price.
A flat head X-acto blade would be a much better choice for scraping off prints from the build plate. It's probably not a big deal but using the standard pointy blade will definitely leave a mark on the build plate over time.
@@Taliesin6 Depending on the resin and settings, sometimes you need a chisel to break the resin off the build plate. :) That's when you know you over exposed your burn-in layers.
@@wimvanertvelde it’s pretty pricey and the large ones often have adhesion problems. I like to sell my printer when a new and shiny version comes out, and often the dimensions end up being slightly different. Though for the Saturn 4 I feel like I’ll be keeping this one longer. Famous last words. :)
Not sure what ALL of the marketing says for Wargamer, but I'll say that when I purchased it, it was under the impression of it being "Comparable to the other resins but without the fuss of mixing resins to get a miniature that could survive being dropped from the table". My biggest issue was lack of documentation on exposure times for DLP printers.
Mixing resins shouldn't be a thing at all, the alleged toughness increase is too often just undercured resin that is still flexible as different resins have different exposure times and mixing them doesn't cause them to become a third kind of resin with universal exposure time between the two original amounts. It's not cooking, those two resins still have two different behaviours and will cure at different exposure times even while mixed. I don't know who started this mixing trend but it needs to vanish instead of being normalized. Less pretending to be a chemist - more just buying the correct type of resin that is already manufactured to offer specific qualities.
I don't use resin printers or have any interest in owning one, but I have to give you a ton of credit for this video. I don't want to think of how long you spent washing, curing, emptying reservoirs, spraying, photographing, wondering how many days that last whiff of resin took off your life.
Fantastic deep dive on this topic! I pretty gave up on any “8k” resin but I love the hell out of Rapid Resins since they are so much more viscous… that or my go to Siraya tech Fast. Z mudd 😂🤣 that is by far the worst resin I’ve ever used Awesome vid & just subbed!
Sunlu gives me the best results, with my custom mix; Standard:ABS:PA 500g:300g:200g. Standard keeps the cost down combined with the properties of the other two gives me minis with great detail and flexible enough to minimise breakages. I use it in my Halot Mage and One+
thank you for the video, I commented on your community post thanking you, but I really want to THANK YOU for taking the time to document this and trying to find the best resin possible.
Gday ol son.....just found your channel and found it fascinating 🤔. Just joined to learn more about the figure printing side in resin Printing. I Picked up a Nova3d Whale 2 Really cheap Jan of last yr as my entry into resin Printing, but ive not done much.....maybe 200-300 hrs in all, but most fail. I got into this 3d printing hobby to help with my health, i have Chronic lower back pain/cyatic pain, on to of that Depression, PTSD, and Crippling anxierty that keeps me home. But i have my makerspace, with a lot of unfinished projects that need to be finished. hopefully a local lad can help this 50yr ol bugger in brizzy up his resin game (i do have a lot of resin i bought over xmas from a Aussie resin company Monocure). cheers on the time spent for this perticular resin test. Hooroo from Brisbane
Welcome! As a fellow sufferer of chronic anxiety I too know how nice it is to stay in and solve small problems with 3D printers 😅 I hope the videos can help you get on better with the hardware and enjoy more success 🍻 Supporting local businesses is great but all the monocure stuff I've tried so far has been really disappointing! Definitely give some of the Chinese ABS-like's a go
I have a small child and two cats, and given the number of times those little ninjas have snuck into my room and smashed my fresh prints I'm probably going to try to get the Wargamer resin. I've already purchased a cabinet that locks, but I haven't been able to put it up yet. I'm also really really tired of swords, banners, plumes, crests, and other small bits just snapping as soon as I look at them the wrong way when removing them from a support let alone drop them while painting, so that should help.
@@HairyStuntWaffle *WHY. NOT. BOTH!* Introducing *Macro* MEGA PLASTICS! PAAAAALATINUM EDITION! ORDER WITHIN THE NEXT 2 HOURS AND GET SEVERE LIVER FAILURE AT NO. *EXTRA. COST!!!*
You just need to get that UV light right down inside you for maximum effect! It really turbocharges the experience when you get that second hit from the curing process.
I tried Sunlu Toughness and ABS-like this month. Found the Toughness' details too delicate before post cured, and if I didn't get it cleaned and cured within half a day it would start to go gummy and lose flexibility. Loaded up the ABS-like and am currently in love with it, ran off every print on my thumb drive. It also gets softer with time before post curing, but not to a detrimental degree. The final results are strong and tough. Jjst thinking about it I'm getting the itch to print more. Thank you for doing this test! I was genuinely wondering since the last video when you mentioned you were going to use the Mage for this if you'd end up throwing in the towel and switching. Got a chuckle out of that. Honestly, that printer's not on my list of potential upgrades when I decide to move on from my Mars 2 Pro.
I don’t use a new pair of gloves with each print. I just soak a paper towel in alcohol and throughly wipe my gloved hands with it. Works pretty well imo
Good tip. 👍 Prolly cuts glove waste down by half. Maybe more depending on how frequently you need them, and how carefully you remove your gloves and store them temporarily.
I purchased a pack of 500 of the clear thin food service gloves. Those go over a pair of the nitrile gloves. The clear ones are swapped out whenever resin touches them and they are way less plastic than the nitrile.
hi, recycling is good! but you should really check the permeation values of your gloves (ask the manufacturer). i guess the brands are all quite similar so you can extimate ~ 10minuites for the IPA to permeate. rather try out "Uuvex Uchem 3300" which are a lot thicker and last ~500minutes!!
I buy gloves from Harbor Freight, but use each pair until they rip from getting fragile. I always wash by hand, with 2 jars of alcohol--dirty stuff for the initial wash, and nice clean stuff for the final. When the clean stuff gets cloudy, it goes in the "dirty" jar and the dirty jar goes into the "reprocess" jar. Now if I could just come up with a good way of reprocessing the alcohol...not worth the cost to build a still, since once I use it for resin, I can never use it for whiskey again😃
I would say that one issue with limiting the exposure testing t0 .25s is, for example with the ZMUD, .25s is 1/20th of the final exposure and might actually be TOO fine an adjustment, but with the Phrozen, .25s is 1/4 of the final exposure and the difference from one stop to the next is going to be MASSIVE. The faster a resin is, the finer adjustment you really need, unless you just get lucky and the ideal exposure happens to land on one of those divisions. This is why generally it's better to start adjusting the lightsource power (where possible of course) down, rather than exposure time once you get down to around 1.5 - 2s
This is a really great point! Thank you for raising that, and that's something I'll have to consider when I do my dimensional accuracy v tensile strength video. I still believe that functionally it's a completely useful and practical resolution, in that every resin I calibrated here I did achieve a result that met my criteria for dimensional accuracy across Cones V3, Ameralabs and my set of Calipers. It's also generally accepted practice that you set your exposure slightly over anyway to give yourself the best possible chances with presupports. Ie; when determining which of two calibration results is better, just err on the aide of the higher one. I would like to see higher resolution of course in Anycubics Rerf feature, but yeah for tabletop minis I'm yet to run into a resin that it wasn't perfectly up to task for dialing in a good setting. Thanks again for the food for thought!
Outstanding video friend, I love your humor towards the nonsense. Wonderful entertainment while being cheeky reference material. Thank you for referencing Noizie Works, I love his tests and he puts in a lot of hard work and I hope he can get more exposure! Thank you very much sir!
The resin has 8k resolution obviously :'D. Wooooop. But yes, some resins prints worse. Buying a great printer and a useless resin is dumb. They advertise are misleading. Some are too brittle is also an issue.
This video was absolutely amazing. We know the level of work that goes into something like that and all we can say is well done, factual, entertaining, everything... We loved it
Oh myyyy! Thanks for all the efforts to make this video :)) Man of patience! I have been thinking of the difference recently and I was wonder wether I should change to a pricier resin or not! This helps a lot.
I moved from anycubic ABS like to Sunlu ABS like a couple of weeks ago and the difference is night and day. Other that having to buy it from amazon because the Sunlu website was slightly cheaper but wanted £600 in shipping (that isn't a typo) to a UK mainland address. I mainly print D and D monster models and I'm kicking myself for printing so many with the anycubic resin. It isn't tough it's brittle and the Sunlu resin is so mucb better.
Sunlu ABS-like has been a go-to for me for a long time. It's hard to beat for the price. Also, despite knowing that no shots of resin were actually being consumed (...right?), my stomach still turned. Well done.
Definitely not supporting somebody charging twice as much as the competition for no reason, lmao. Refusing review units guarantees it too, a move only employed by scummy companies.
i am glad that even before i watched this, i always had a feeling high detail resin claims were nonsense, i only buy anycubic plant resin, especially clear resin, the former because i buy 3 for 2 and the latter because i found the resin to be surprisingly easier to work with, be it durability and failure % during printing, correct me if i am wrong about it, but by adding stuff that changes the colour, it dillutes the UV sensitive part of the mixture and makes it less of a coherent blend, since all UV resin by default is clear when it's made in the factory. it could all be anecdotal evidence, but ever since i started using it, it just works out better, the only thing that is a bit worse, is that i need to apply thicker coat of a primer before painting, due to its transparent nature Thank you for making the video of course
We honour your sacrifice! Cheers for the insight. I use Wargamer all the time, pretty much, but have also had nice bendy results with Resione TH72 and Jamg He but they're IPA wash only. I've printed a lot of chunky stuff in Anycubic ABS-like v2 which *is* water washable but it seems to get quite brittle over time (but this might just be resolved by actually painting the damn stuff so it doesn't continue to absorb water, something I'm bad at as when it's warm over here in Blighty I just print like a psycho then worry about painting later). You should have a nice big sleepy-bo's, then do another batch of resins to compare. Because it's not like you actually want to do any gaming or stuff like that, surely :)!
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to answer the first question of does the resin matter, yes it does because for finer detail you need a thinner resin that wets the vat bottom fast enough that flows between the prints last layer and the FEP sheet fully before the next layer comes down or you will end up with voids. the second consideration is how far does the uv light travel into the resin and how far it spills over to where its not supposed to cure. this is why dark gray is the favorite for fine detail it still cures fast enough but without light leakage like any of the translucent filaments. yes theres plenty of resins sold with a bunch of bs marketing claims but the legit companies out there are ordering their resins with specific material properties, all 3d print resins (4 years ago) came from only 3 factories in china and 1 of them was responsible for the majority, since then idk i've been out of the industry and cant comment. point being even though most of the resins came from one location every brand had a unique formula based mostly on price because go figure better performing resins are more expensive to produce. low shrinkage resin is really the most important aspect.
I did same test for myself. And you are 100% right. I even printed on different resolution machines 4k 8k and 14 K. I have compared Sunlu abs, jamghe abs, elegoo 8k, Sunlu 14k, promes it and I didn't spot difference comparing side by side.
Question: for the Sunlu and Warmer resins, did they ever return to their original shape or did they stay bent? MY issue is sometimes resins will lose their rigidity and 'flop' especially for standard bearers. Sometimes I can counteract that through curing, but curious how this turned out for you.
Thats a good question I would like to know with wargamer as well. My sunlu stuff doesnt flop, but then again I dont print stuff like big heavy banners that rely on a single resin post to support it. Regardless, thats a good question, and am commenting in hopes it leads to being notified about an answer.
I use the Sunlu, and I'd say in my experience it's pretty elastic. If I had to guess the plastic deformation point is probably pretty close to the breaking point if you were to make a proper stress-strain curve graph.
I mix 20% sunlu tenacious and 80% abs-like. It's a mix I'm _very_ nearly able to do both dimensional and strength curing at the same time. (I made a PID controlled heated vat and print at 32° C). With the additional tenacious, they're even softer. Prints so far seem to return to the original shape with no problem. In fact, I've never had prints with "gummy bear" consistency.
Hey this was a great video and super useful comparison, but I can't drop a like or endorse due to the resin drinking skit. You've no idea who could end up watching this video and its just irresponsible for a sake of joke that I don't think your video needs! You are funny and entertaining and informative without adding a gag like that. Also to anyone reading this comment, please don't drink resin, or handle it without proper protection!
I'd like to argue that the models all feature various imperfections such as not sitting flat against the table, some dimensional skewing over their total print length (the stance on some of the space marines and beast hunters vary notably between photos when compared side by side) etc. I'd be interested in seeing what the total dimensional inaccuracy is for each of the print batches, relative to each other (and relative to what the slicer reports as correct), the calibration tests came out good but some of these resins clearly had better dimensional stability than others.
Your experience with the Aqua red clay is odd. I've found it to be very easy to calibrate (It's one of the resins I used for the cones v3 alpha test back in late 2023) and has been pretty resilient to temperature changes (I'm still using the calibration I arrived at in December, printing anywhere from 23C all the way to 30C without issues) I'm wondering if you've got a bad bottle or something. [edit] Yeah, even the smell doesn't seem to line up with my experience. I mean, it's certainly not odorless, but I found elegoo 8k to be much worse than phrozen smell-wise. I definitely think you got a bottle from a bad batch or something... or maybe it was old? Hard to say, but your experience with it was way different than mine, outside of the exposure (for me it's at 1.4s, by far the fastest resin I've used)
Just ordered a Saturn with the resin it recommended (their abs like) not thinking about if it would be good for minis. Almost went to panic buy their 8k resin but decided to watch a video on it first. Exactly what i needed to quiet needless buyers remorse. 👍
19:32 That's the most important point 💯 People get too hyper-focused on the sharpness of their prints. You're not making equipment for NASA. Get the resin that behaves the way you need it to at a price you're willing to pay.
I’ve tried most of these, mostly in 60/40, 70/30, and 80/20 blends for details and strength. The resins I’m using pretty much exclusively now are Conjure Standard 8K Grey (or Black) and Conjure Rigid Grey (or Black). I’m using an 80% Standard 8K to 20% Rigid blend. I’ve found that gives me the performance I’m looking for.
Amazing video as always. I think you're single handedly driving the miniature printing resin market towards better products! I know this video is changing the way I think about how I'm going to buy resin from now on.
I choose the 8k space grey moslty for the color and how the details can be better appreciated than the black with lighting the basic grey is too light for me. Basically just color.
Great video mate! glad you did this, the idea of testing multiple resins again is like pulling teeth. it took us over 30 different bottles just to get the recipe right for this!
"we could be a quater of a second over or under. .. I would argue that that margin of error is functionally meangless" I worked on the cones v3 development and from that I would say within 5% is perfect and any lower is actaully meangless because no consumer machine has better uv uniformity than that, within 10% is good and practically meangless. However with 0.25s at 1s that is 25% jumps which is HUGE. It's really not about the seconds, it's about the %, so at 2-4s 0.25s is a reasonable interval but not at 1s.
But might it also come down to what the mechanics and electronics can physically do? 5% of a 2-second exposure time is 0.1-seconds. Can the electronics switch the light on or off in 100 milliseconds? How long does it take for the UV light to fully "warm up" and emit full lumens? Can the hardware used in these consumer machines actually switch the UV light fully on and then fully off in precisely 2.1 seconds vs 2.2 seconds? It's like the layer height. We talk about layer heights in terms of 50um or 20um etc, but the physical mechanics of the stepper motor actually determine what the smallest z height increment is and what the actual steps are between one layer height and the next, based on how many microsteps the motor can do. I can't wrap my head around the maths but it's possible that when you set a layer height of 20um, the machine is only able to manage some random incremental number like 24.6um. (Again, the specific details are beyond me but it's been explained that its a physical limitation in the stepper hardware)
@@Starganderfish "Can the electronics switch the light on or off in 100 milliseconds? How long does it take for the UV light to fully "warm up" and emit full lumens?" even if the light isn't fast enough the LCD is. most makers don't say what hz they run the LCD at but it's safe to assume that most are at least 10hz so 0.1s changes should work and from my expirience with a few printers they do. anycubic rerf does 0.25 jumps, I don't believe they run at 4hz, that would be mad so more likely they run at 20hz. also even if it takes say 0.5s for the light to start/stop fully emmitting light if you change when it stops by 0.1s it will still change total exposure by 0.1s. eg resin cures a bit after the light goes off, this could be for like 0.5-1s, that doesn't mean you can't change how long you cure with more precision than that. and on the z steps, IIRC they are usually so small that the bigger concern is actually just the reliability of the hardware, eg ball bearing z screws are better so they can more reliabily get the right layer height, any wear or dirt etc in the screw or rails and you can start to get lines on all your prints, I've seen that loads, but I've never seen lines from limits of the step size.
I love that you primed the figures to give a level playing field and the availability of the hi res images is also fantastic. I wonder though if there could be some effect in the brittleness during the exposure duration??
Oof i dread vat cleaning and you needed to do it so many times. Also, if you keep doing vat cleans there are plenty of vat holder models to make it less painful.
YEAH Once you Hit Good enough I say 4K anything higher you you can't even see with out like a Magnifying glass. Its liek the bad Old days of CD speed 4X 8X 24X 36X 100X all market i BS after about 24X or so.
But there are other uses for resin printers. I'm using mine to create printed circuit boards and specialized antennas. More resolution = exponentially more value for the products I design and build.
I feel like out of all of this, without any resin experience myself, I would definitely go for something like the Sunlu ABS-like for the fact that it seem like a good combination of value, quality, and speed while also being somewhat easier to work with for being slightly pliable and less brittle
Since light (in a specific wavelength band) is used to cure the resin and it must have a certain transparency allowing a "depth" to be cured it will boil down to the scattering effects in the resin versus the possible depth of cure. This is because apart from the depth, the scattering will cause curing sideways from the intended location as well. Reducing the "resolution" or sharpness in all 3 axis.
Excellent. A very useful vid. I'd love to see a similar study done on different resins dependency on temperature, seeing as it's THE key factor for resin printing for me.
Really great breakdown. One sticking point though - comparing standard resins to ABS-like resins side by side for durability tests is apples to oranges. Of course the ABS-like is going to be more durable. Standard resins are brittle in general. I've been using Sunlu ABS-like exclusively for the last year and it's my favorite. It's cheap and durable, but comparing it to standard resins isn't a fair test.
I have personally loved Zmud, it is my go to resin, the secret to printing with it is heat believe it or not, i keep my printing enclosure at 30 and make sure i keep a bottle prewarmed if i need to top up prints. I buy 5 litre bottles for a fraction of the price of other brands so the electricity a little space heater consumes is nothing compared to the money i save on resin.
The thing that really shines for me with Sunlu is how much less it smells (like exponentially less) than Elegoo and Phrozen - until it goes under the curing light; then they're about even.
what pisses me off about current printers more than the lack of tuning modes, is the crappy reservoir design that doesn't allow you to pour resin without having it spill everywhere.
Have you tried reusable nitrile gloves? They're a bit thicker so you lose a bit of feel but you just rinse them in your IPA bath and they're good to go again. Saves a ton of cash and waste.
Hey, just a suggestion but I use a 3/4 inch chisel ground putty knife to remove prints. It is a little flexible and is sharp enough to get under the prints.
So what I use as a scraper to remove prints form my Saturn S is actually a cheap wood chisel. The chisel has a sharp edge to get under the resin, and the weight and rigidity to allow me to just tap it and pop the parts free. I bring it up because you look like you are absolutely struggling with that xacto blade. And to be honest, the scrappers that come with the machines are garbage.
I'm glad you've done this as when I got my Saturn 3 ultra I got some 8k resin and couldn't see any difference between it and some Sunlu standard resin, and thought then, I smell BS. I put it down to my age (62) and my aging eyesight or me being a cynic. Love when the buns make an appearance too.
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Very helpful video! I just downloaded the app and will review, but do you happen to have the printer settings you used with the Wargamer resin? I'm struggling to dial that in with my Mars 4 Ultra
@@kdonv where is the free STL?
This is one reason i respect Siraya Tech and use their resin. They straight up said that 4k and 8k resin are just bs marketing terms but they had to put that on their newer bottles because people use that in their search terms, but it means nothing and theres nothing different about the resin.
Yeah, if you cant beat the marketing, you might as well be honest about it.
“Hey, this industry is full of charlatans. Somehow, we all make the same product, but fluff it up. Anyway, here is our product, not much different from the competition.”
I use Siraya tech too bc the reviewer from CNET uses it to test printers. Never done me wrong and everyone I’ve done commissions for says it’s the best quality and durability they’ve seen. Recently put it up against Elegoo’s 3.0 and think I still prefer siraya tech. Now gonna put it up against Sunlu too. Would love to support wargamer and Fauxhammer and water washable would be a dream, but idk how I could justify the cost. Killer vid as always, but esp this one!!
@@CalAndAly Siraya for the win - but, beware of the waterwashable resins in general. Really read about it before purchase, bcs there is just too many things you have to follow or you will end up with a sticky print. Like - don´t wash it too long. Don´t leave it in cleaning solution for too long. They recomend 15% alcohol solution for cleaning. Dry it quickly. Wash it mutliple times. It absorbs water from whatever source. Don´t cure it wet etc. It´s like..so much hassle. Honestly, I just came back to normal resin and clean with IPA in a ziplock bag.
Siraya is king.. but Sunlu ABS Like is the second best option, my go to resin for most of my standard prints.
Long time Siraya user. It never fails me.
PSA: Dont drink resin. (You never know who's watching this)
Oh, I was about to
you're right.. it could be a tiktok challenge any day
@@stickyfox yea, "drink 500 mls of resin and get 300 views," (dies 3 days later)
Charlie Kelly….
I saw a reddit post of someone accidentally scratching their eye after having resin on their hands and they went blind in that eye, at least temporarily. Not sure if the vision came back or not... the shots of him pouring the resin in the shot glass without any gloves was sketchy, to say the least.
Thank You! Honestly the undercoating is such an important step for making comparisons. So many channels just look at the darker tinted 8k resin and go 'oh yeah thats better'.
10/10 mate, keep em coming.
Resin manufacturer here: in the early days high detail resin were somewhat justified as they used pigments to block light and prevent overcuring with cheaper base resins and photoinitiators. But nowadays any Quality resin will give you the max detail a given machine can fabricate. if the manufacturer uses a good base resin and high quality photoinitiator ,you can expect the max amount of details once you dialed in the settings for your machine.
Great job on comparing the models.
fyi: i make professional engineering Resin, might also be interesting for Wargaming because of its durability. edit:spelling
Thanks for jumping in here! Always a treat to hear direct from the people behind these products. I would of course be interested in looking at engineering resins also, but here on this channel one of the biggest factors for consideration on any product shown here is the price, and in my experience engineering resins don't come cheap! We wargamers do love saving a buck on our miniatures haha.
The kind of resin that is usually used for engineering purpose is... let's say a little bit expensive.
100 bucks a L... you almost reach GW price with that base material...
No just kidding, no way near GW price lol
Oh I so would love to give some engineering resins a shot, found that generally if they have any form of strength they tend to be brittle
Is there anywhere to read up on Resin exposure dangers ? Alot of conflicting info out there. Gotten to the point I'm scared to run my printers anywhere inside the house.
@@mml3140 I wouldn't, without insane ventilation. I've read enough to make not not even consider a resin printer, anymore. There's some good info on reddit.
My only criticism is the WarGamer resin promo with water washable been remarked as a positive thing. It's 100% a horrible thing, as everyone, manufacturers, users, power users, commercial, when using water washable resins.. Pour that horrible toxic gunk straight into the drains and do not treat it or dispose of it correctly. This is because it literally tells you on the packaging, and the promo videos, and in FAR too many "reviewers" videos that you can use things like running water under a tap, etc.. The resin remains Toxic to Aquatic life in its uncured state, and itsn't filtered by waste water filtration systems.
Other than that, thanks for making an awesome video, I'll definitely be sharing this whenever it's relevant to guide people away from stupid mistakes. This is something I've had to repeatedly explain to new users in forums, and it gets a little bit irritating that the crappy marketing tactics work so effectively, and hard to make people unlearn, same with teh KKK's that mean naff all to do with the actual size or quality of a printer etc
Keep up the awesome and gruelling work, it's appreciated
Agreed! Never saw the point in water washable myself, but some folks refuse to steer away from it. I just ran a poll on my community page and it's currently sitting at 10% of participants putting water washable as the most important factor for their resin buying decisions.
I'm working on a follow up video this month exploring a range of water washable resins at different price points to see if we can find a better value option than Wargamer, but also to raise the concerns you mention here and start a discussion around water washable vs alcohol.
@@OnceinaSixSide well the main point is not just that it's more convenient and safer to wash prints off with water, and so you don't need containers of flammable alcohol that could be an issue for younger people who's parents don't want them to have bottles of flamable liquid.
But it also means it's also just easier to clean up accidents, which is also more convenient for beginners.
But yeah in the long run beginners aren't going to be handling the waste water properly and it's harder to process than alcohol which evaporates at room temp.
I think the ideal method is to use alcohol still to clean models, but having he water washable resin means you know if you ever spill some you can clean it with wet towels, then just cure them and dispose of them.
Maybe a video about how to properly use water washable resin and processing the wash water would be helpful for the community.
The marketing definitely gave off "flushable wipes" vibes and we know how false that marketing was/is
@@UlshaRS how so? i use flushable wipes. never had an issue. you're only supposed to use one per flush.
@@ge2719they don't break down in water like regular toilet paper does, so they get caught in pipes and filters in the sewer system and waste treatment facilities. It doesn't clog your house's pipes to do one at a time but it can still cause issues in the system
Gotta start that trend of edible resin. Resin you can snack on the failed prints.
tbh I'd pay $80 a kilogram if I could eat the supports off my models. I'm massively paranoid so I tend to oversupport a lot and they're an oddly snackable shape.
Could you do that with carmelized sugars? Have a bunch of sugar water instead of resin, and some way to I dunno lazer carmelize it or maybe with wave overlaps from high frequency sound emitters?
Any resin is edible, if you're insane enough.
Solve world hunger within a month
Wait... its not edible?
Great review! You have exposed a harsh truth, most of these resins are probably manufactured in the same two factories in Shenzhen with materials sourced from a single supplier in Guangzhou China. The same is true for most consumer goods today. The brand names differ but the manufactures are the same, the only variability is in quality of materials used and quality inspection regimes specified by the wholesale customer. Keep up the fine work.
You forgot "and made from the tears of a poor Communist child, in a sweat shop" ... :)
"the only variability"? that covers more of the resin performance then the manufacturers, what difference does where it's made matter if the quality of materials and formulation are different.
@@evilqueen6402 The point is it is all the basically the same stuff, from the same place, only branding and prices vary.
There are definitely differences in some resins but most perform pretty close to the same.
Surface hardness, Post processing shrinking and warping, Maximum Accuracy on XY while maintaining strength. Accuracy on Z (massive impact on quality). Elongation before breaking.
Testing all of these is a pain and requires a very accurate printer that can push the resin to its edge.
Often this means no ACF, No screen protector and a 3D printer with a very good lighting engine and a very low XY um LCD.
as someone from a colder climate, I use the chitubox heater. It works fine, the controls are a bit weird but it works. You also get ( or used to) a chitubox license with it.
Awesome freaking tests man! really nice to see and especially nice to see you sharing the proof photo's with the webapp. I'm glad to know that I haven't bought into the marketing BS.
The smell index is is appriciated. I got a very sensitive nose to chemical smells so I'm glad I got SUNLU abs-like. Haven't used it yet, but I'm hopefull.
if you have alot of issues with resins not sticking to the build plate or delamination, likely that is because they are high detail resins which have low bloom and therefore if you don't have enough wait time for the layers to settle to the right height before curing then they won't be able to cure to the previous surface because the distance is too great. On bottom layers without 40-60s wait before print the plate surface area can result in the first layers being as much as 5x what they should be! unfortunatly no consumer printer handles this properly on board, however printers that can do per layer settings (anycubic no, elegoo yes) can be edited with UV Tools to add a long wait wait time of say 40s the the first 0.5mm and then slowly transition to a normal wait of like 2-3s. This makes such a big difference that you can even drop base exposure to just 2-3x normal exposure for most resins and get no elephants foot or warping as a result for perfect direct printing. (high pigment resins will still require more exposure than this but you can still lower it by as much as half)
Also 13:35 Did you calibrate with the heater? going from 22c to 37c is going to make a HUGE difference on exposure.
Auto off compensation has been in Anycubic firmware for years. Space heaters are shit. Vat band and an enclosure is the way to go.
@@commonsense7754 yeha my m3 premium waits for 10s on base layers with that setting which helps a lot but sometimes it's not enough. Lower resin viscosity certianly helps with these sorts of issues so yeha heating can help a lot but that also affects exposure and it's unclear if he recalibrated after adding the heater
@@commonsense7754 The issue vat band heater is that it doesn't heat up the plate, so if you want to keep it the same temp as the resin, you need to park in the vat and keep there before starting a print
Plus they also make emptying the vat more annoying. I prefer regular ambient heaters personally, much easier.
Other than that, what Tom said.
You need a palate cleanser in between taste tests. Not doing so causes the flavor to be detected differently, thus nullifying the results.
Damn, I think you're right!
I usually just take a big belt of IPA as a palate cleanser. 😊
@@OnceinaSixSideI actually lol’d at this bit, love it man!!
meths
00:00 🧼 Introduction of high precision and low shrinkage resin with sharper edges and finer details.
00:21 🎥 Introduction to the video content and its focus on testing various 3D printing resins.
00:39 🤔 Skepticism about the impact of 8K resin on print quality and its visibility to the naked eye.
01:18 💰 Presentation of four high-detail resins and their prices: eLux 8K, Frozen Aqua 8K, HeyGears Pap 10, and Wargamer.
02:00 🏷 Comparison with budget-friendly and durable resins: Sunlu ABS-like, Anycubic Standard, Siraya Tech Fast, and Uni Zmud.
02:57 🔍 Plan to test resins by tuning dimensional accuracy, printing the same models, and comparing under identical conditions.
03:51 🌡 Calibration of each resin to achieve dimensional accuracy before printing comparison models.
04:27 🖨 Use of Creality's Hallet Mage S printer for the tests, highlighting the need for better exposure calibration tools.
05:46 ⏱ Time-consuming process of running back-to-back calibration prints due to lack of exposure calibration feature.
07:04 ⚔ Selection of highly detailed miniature models for realistic resin comparison.
08:14 🛠 Steps of printing, cleaning, and assembling models for consistent comparison.
09:11 😣 Challenges with Uni Zmud resin, including adhesion and brittleness issues.
09:56 🔄 Frustrations with Frozen Aqua 8K resin and decision to switch printers for consistency.
10:58 🔧 Introduction of Anycubic Mono M5s Pro printer with efficient resin exposure calibration.
12:00 🛠 Recalibration and reprinting process for all resins using the new printer setup.
12:48 🎬 Smooth progress with the new printer, but continued challenges with Frozen Aqua 8K resin.
13:58 💡 Overview of the results, inviting viewers to join the community and support the channel.
14:09 🌐 Announcement of a web app for detailed side-by-side resin comparison and sharing findings.
15:22 🎨 Comparison of raw appearance and primed finish of different resins, showing minor differences in details.
16:08 🔍 Conclusion that the differences between high-detail and budget resins are minimal once painted.
Did you use a LLM on the video transcript to pull this off? Still impressive if so, and I commend the effort lol.
THANKYOU! for doing a comparison of models AFTER they have a coat of paint to eliminate differences due to transparency/colour!
Good science there. Controlled as many variables as possible. This makes me happy I chose Sunlu ABS like!
Thanks for the shout-out 🤘🤘
Your resin testing puts mine to shame 🍻
Where is the FREE Stl/mini
Your testing methodology is hands down the way everyone should do this sort of thing. It is perfect.
Thank you for this detailed comparison, which confirms my suspicion that 12K resins are marketing bullshit. When I ordered my first "12k" resin from Siraya Tech for my first resin printer, I received "8k" resin instead. When I complained to customer service, they told me it was an old batch that hadn't yet received the new packaging, but it was the same thing. So there's no even hiding the fact that there's no difference between the resolutions.
Great video! Said it before and will say it again, I've definitely found the best resin for minis is Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. It's plenty tough for wargaming purposes, prints really fast, is VERY forgiving to print with and has beautiful details. I've switched over to it after I found other resins getting weirdly gummed up details on the support-facing side of parts. Also, whilst not quite as tough as some resins out there, it's also quite resistant to warping.
absolutely the best 3d printing channel going
i 100% support durability and accuracy over 'speed' or "detail". Notice accuracy is not detail level, but the ability to actually dial in to say 0.01 accurate prints. (which, let's face it - just about every resin printer should be able to do) I mean you want your prints to be able to survive some dings and rattling around, to prevent the need for expensive cases and such to carry them around in, and , durable made minis tend to do better when you want to add physical wear, damage, or details of that nature. (instead of shattering or splitting)
Whaatttt? For-profit organizations deceiving customers?
Shocking.
Still, I appreciate your videos.
Wait until you find out about the deceptions of governments and not-for-profit organisations.
This is extremely helpful, particularly for those of us who are extremely budget conscious, yet still want good looking miniatures. The priming step is a great idea for ensuring all things at the end are equal.
Fauxhammer left a bad taste in my mouth when he did a "3d printing in the cold" video, an issue I struggled with foe ages, and it was literally just a full video ad for a printer with a heating feature. No information or general help for dealing with lower temperatures.
you still need help on that or did you figured it all out?
...that's the conclusion. If you want to print in the cold you need a heater.
Faux hammer leaves a bad taste in my mouth about once a month when whoever has decided to collaborate or send him free stuff suddenly becomes THE BEST PRINTER MANUFACTURER / RESIN MANUFACTURER/ PRINTING COMPANY IN THE WORLD!!!
@@Adam_Lynn He doesn't care and never will because consumers are not his audience. The businesses who's printers he is shilling are. His business model like so many other 3D printing channels is to get sponsorships from 3D printing companies so he can make money. You as a watcher are at best a product that he sells as part of his brand to interested businesses. As long as he gets paid to shill, the business is profitable and thus successful. This isn't even just a problem with 3D printing You Tubers. It's nearly all content creators with more than 10k followers.
Vat band heaters solve the issue. They don't regulate, so you have to dial it in, but they give you a stick on thermometer. It really helps prevent failure and improve consistency.
For the price alone I’ll never use anything other than sunlu. I can order 4 kilo at a time without beeing annoyed with the cost. Warhammer is twice the price of sunlu where I live.
Just got 4 kilo of Sunlu ABS like for £48 delivered . Wonder who is making that Fauxhammer stuff ?
That price looks less that you'll pay for PLA filament. Granted it doesn't account for cleaning supplies, but it seriously shifts the balance in favor of a resin printer.
Sunlu ABS-Like is my absolute favorite resin. I can say it does bloom out details a little even when well calibrated as compared to Siraya Tech Fast Navy (which I previously used), but I only print things I've sculpted myself, so I just carve my details a little deeper. But for durability it absolutely cannot be beat, it's tougher than a Tenacious mix, which is just about the most important factor for me, since I'm shipping my sculptures all over the world. Tenacious-laden sculpts would arrive with broken bits, I've never had a Sunlu print break during shipping.
I sometimes see sunlu abs-like for $20/kg. A third of the cost of wargamer.
I used to wish they would finally ship wargamer resin to the U.S. just so I could try it, but after using Sunlu, I NOPED the fuck out of that prior wish for it, real quick.
Sunlu ABS-like is the only resin I've used, but I did a lot of research beforehand, and I've been very happy with the stuff.
A lot of people do not understand shrinkage so Your resin will continue to shrink even after your final cure. It takes about 2-3 days to settle. you can get it to happen a lot faster if you leave it in a heated chamber at upward of 50 C for roughly one hour. Meaning dimensional accuracy for a part just printed vs a few days later can be different. I have parts that when straight out of post-processing were the right size only to end up undersized a few days later because of that. So unless you let the resin settle your dimensional accuracy is moot. Also, most dimensional accuracy does not mean the best detail. more likely than not your prints are going to be over-exposed. So less detail. The way you would do this is you would dial in your printer for details then use scaling and other compensations for dimensional accuracy. This is not how you test for detail quality of the resin. Also 1/10 of a second is comparatively a lot when your exposure is 1 to 2 seconds that’s 5-10% more light. So depending on the resin and light bleed and other factors there is a lot of variance that can happen between what seems like minuscule differences
Where is FREEW STL? 2 minis from video
How do you dial it in for detail? Do you use specific tests and what are the primary parameters to focus on? Do you wait a few days before comparing them?
Thanks a lot for your work for the community!
Personally, beside the resistance of the résine, a test I would be happy to see is how close a resin comes to be kibashed like plastic. Like cuting it and so on
The best resin I’ve ever used is Jamg He art-engineering resin. There’s a few TH-camrs talking about it, but in my mind, isn’t getting the love it deserves. I would love to see how it stacks up against the others
I covered most Jamg he resins if you want to find out more about them.
@@NoizieWorks Is there a Free Miniature?
@ReadyMack-g with the bottle? No
every qualification I have in health and safety and understanding of impressionable randoms (including errant kids/teens) on the internet is begging me to ask you to put a large disclaimer on the 'resin drinking' bit.
Thank you so much for this test! This means that i will still stand by Sunlu Abs like , it is affordable and even if a mini fell from the desk, it just broke off in the worst case on a contact point which has been glued with superglue .
Sunlu is a sleeper company, most people dont even consider it as an option. This just proves that they are worthy ! Keep the good stuff coming dude !
Thanks for providing the little website and photos, always appreciate the due diligence you do.
Also appreciate the shoutout to miniature horde, always on the lookout for more Aussie tabletop resources, it can be real hard to find shops that don't take the piss down here.
God, I love your little inserted skits. We know you aren't drinking the resin, but it was funny with the talking mini. I loved it more because channels are too afraid to even make jokes now.
Sure you cant do that right now - tuck in and report ur findings back to the community...
I was listening to this in the backgroung I actually stopped what I was doing to watch the 'drinking' 😂
i guffawed multiple times during this video
Great video. Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it in the comments, or you're already aware of it, but UVTools has an an exposure finder that should work with any printer. I have one set up with 10 different exposures at 0.2s intervals, will find two of the best and then print the Amera town and a few other test models at the best one and 0.1s either side. That 0.1s can make a difference, but not enough for details at arms length.
I've been using Sunlu ABS like with my Mars 3 Pro as it's cheap and reliable, won't switch unless I find something else better at the same price.
A flat head X-acto blade would be a much better choice for scraping off prints from the build plate. It's probably not a big deal but using the standard pointy blade will definitely leave a mark on the build plate over time.
coming from fdm printing seeing people use metal blades on the bed feels so wrong.
@@Taliesin6 Depending on the resin and settings, sometimes you need a chisel to break the resin off the build plate. :) That's when you know you over exposed your burn-in layers.
Why not a whambam flexi plate?
@@wimvanertvelde it’s pretty pricey and the large ones often have adhesion problems. I like to sell my printer when a new and shiny version comes out, and often the dimensions end up being slightly different. Though for the Saturn 4 I feel like I’ll be keeping this one longer. Famous last words. :)
I cringed every time he pried a print off the build plate with that x-acto blade.
Not sure what ALL of the marketing says for Wargamer, but I'll say that when I purchased it, it was under the impression of it being "Comparable to the other resins but without the fuss of mixing resins to get a miniature that could survive being dropped from the table". My biggest issue was lack of documentation on exposure times for DLP printers.
Mixing resins shouldn't be a thing at all, the alleged toughness increase is too often just undercured resin that is still flexible as different resins have different exposure times and mixing them doesn't cause them to become a third kind of resin with universal exposure time between the two original amounts. It's not cooking, those two resins still have two different behaviours and will cure at different exposure times even while mixed.
I don't know who started this mixing trend but it needs to vanish instead of being normalized. Less pretending to be a chemist - more just buying the correct type of resin that is already manufactured to offer specific qualities.
I don't use resin printers or have any interest in owning one, but I have to give you a ton of credit for this video. I don't want to think of how long you spent washing, curing, emptying reservoirs, spraying, photographing, wondering how many days that last whiff of resin took off your life.
If you do it properly, the resin shouldn't take off time of your life.
Same with airbrushing with lacquer paints or nitro cellulose.
Fantastic deep dive on this topic! I pretty gave up on any “8k” resin but I love the hell out of Rapid Resins since they are so much more viscous… that or my go to Siraya tech Fast. Z mudd 😂🤣 that is by far the worst resin I’ve ever used
Awesome vid & just subbed!
Right on! Nice to see you here 🍻
I got a bottle of Fast Resin from AnyCubic with my printer. It suuuuuuucked. I've had good luck with their water-washable resins.
This was VERY helpful for someone like me who has ordered a resin printer but has not even printed yet. very informative!!
How you make just testing resins so high quality and interesting is beyond me, but keep crushing it man!
Sunlu gives me the best results, with my custom mix; Standard:ABS:PA 500g:300g:200g. Standard keeps the cost down combined with the properties of the other two gives me minis with great detail and flexible enough to minimise breakages. I use it in my Halot Mage and One+
thank you for the video, I commented on your community post thanking you, but I really want to THANK YOU for taking the time to document this and trying to find the best resin possible.
Gday ol son.....just found your channel and found it fascinating 🤔. Just joined to learn more about the figure printing side in resin Printing. I Picked up a Nova3d Whale 2 Really cheap Jan of last yr as my entry into resin Printing, but ive not done much.....maybe 200-300 hrs in all, but most fail. I got into this 3d printing hobby to help with my health, i have Chronic lower back pain/cyatic pain, on to of that Depression, PTSD, and Crippling anxierty that keeps me home. But i have my makerspace, with a lot of unfinished projects that need to be finished. hopefully a local lad can help this 50yr ol bugger in brizzy up his resin game (i do have a lot of resin i bought over xmas from a Aussie resin company Monocure). cheers on the time spent for this perticular resin test. Hooroo from Brisbane
Welcome! As a fellow sufferer of chronic anxiety I too know how nice it is to stay in and solve small problems with 3D printers 😅 I hope the videos can help you get on better with the hardware and enjoy more success 🍻
Supporting local businesses is great but all the monocure stuff I've tried so far has been really disappointing! Definitely give some of the Chinese ABS-like's a go
@OnceinaSixSide well I'll have to use it up I've got about 15+lts to use up and don't want to waste it
I have a small child and two cats, and given the number of times those little ninjas have snuck into my room and smashed my fresh prints I'm probably going to try to get the Wargamer resin. I've already purchased a cabinet that locks, but I haven't been able to put it up yet. I'm also really really tired of swords, banners, plumes, crests, and other small bits just snapping as soon as I look at them the wrong way when removing them from a support let alone drop them while painting, so that should help.
Chug that res! Microplastics? Hah, we're all about the *MEGAPLASTICS*
macroplastics
@@HairyStuntWaffle *WHY. NOT. BOTH!*
Introducing *Macro* MEGA PLASTICS! PAAAAALATINUM EDITION! ORDER WITHIN THE NEXT 2 HOURS AND GET SEVERE LIVER FAILURE AT NO. *EXTRA. COST!!!*
You just need to get that UV light right down inside you for maximum effect!
It really turbocharges the experience when you get that second hit from the curing process.
When even the microplastics in your body are at risk of cancer.
@@Mr_Yod 😂
I tried Sunlu Toughness and ABS-like this month. Found the Toughness' details too delicate before post cured, and if I didn't get it cleaned and cured within half a day it would start to go gummy and lose flexibility. Loaded up the ABS-like and am currently in love with it, ran off every print on my thumb drive. It also gets softer with time before post curing, but not to a detrimental degree. The final results are strong and tough. Jjst thinking about it I'm getting the itch to print more.
Thank you for doing this test! I was genuinely wondering since the last video when you mentioned you were going to use the Mage for this if you'd end up throwing in the towel and switching. Got a chuckle out of that. Honestly, that printer's not on my list of potential upgrades when I decide to move on from my Mars 2 Pro.
I don’t use a new pair of gloves with each print. I just soak a paper towel in alcohol and throughly wipe my gloved hands with it. Works pretty well imo
Good tip. 👍
Prolly cuts glove waste down by half. Maybe more depending on how frequently you need them, and how carefully you remove your gloves and store them temporarily.
I purchased a pack of 500 of the clear thin food service gloves. Those go over a pair of the nitrile gloves. The clear ones are swapped out whenever resin touches them and they are way less plastic than the nitrile.
hi, recycling is good! but you should really check the permeation values of your gloves (ask the manufacturer). i guess the brands are all quite similar so you can extimate ~ 10minuites for the IPA to permeate. rather try out "Uuvex Uchem 3300" which are a lot thicker and last ~500minutes!!
This is an elite tip @@antoniomromo
I buy gloves from Harbor Freight, but use each pair until they rip from getting fragile. I always wash by hand, with 2 jars of alcohol--dirty stuff for the initial wash, and nice clean stuff for the final. When the clean stuff gets cloudy, it goes in the "dirty" jar and the dirty jar goes into the "reprocess" jar.
Now if I could just come up with a good way of reprocessing the alcohol...not worth the cost to build a still, since once I use it for resin, I can never use it for whiskey again😃
I would say that one issue with limiting the exposure testing t0 .25s is, for example with the ZMUD, .25s is 1/20th of the final exposure and might actually be TOO fine an adjustment, but with the Phrozen, .25s is 1/4 of the final exposure and the difference from one stop to the next is going to be MASSIVE. The faster a resin is, the finer adjustment you really need, unless you just get lucky and the ideal exposure happens to land on one of those divisions. This is why generally it's better to start adjusting the lightsource power (where possible of course) down, rather than exposure time once you get down to around 1.5 - 2s
This is a really great point! Thank you for raising that, and that's something I'll have to consider when I do my dimensional accuracy v tensile strength video.
I still believe that functionally it's a completely useful and practical resolution, in that every resin I calibrated here I did achieve a result that met my criteria for dimensional accuracy across Cones V3, Ameralabs and my set of Calipers.
It's also generally accepted practice that you set your exposure slightly over anyway to give yourself the best possible chances with presupports. Ie; when determining which of two calibration results is better, just err on the aide of the higher one.
I would like to see higher resolution of course in Anycubics Rerf feature, but yeah for tabletop minis I'm yet to run into a resin that it wasn't perfectly up to task for dialing in a good setting.
Thanks again for the food for thought!
Outstanding video friend, I love your humor towards the nonsense. Wonderful entertainment while being cheeky reference material. Thank you for referencing Noizie Works, I love his tests and he puts in a lot of hard work and I hope he can get more exposure! Thank you very much sir!
The resin has 8k resolution obviously :'D. Wooooop.
But yes, some resins prints worse. Buying a great printer and a useless resin is dumb. They advertise are misleading.
Some are too brittle is also an issue.
This video was absolutely amazing. We know the level of work that goes into something like that and all we can say is well done, factual, entertaining, everything... We loved it
Oh myyyy! Thanks for all the efforts to make this video :)) Man of patience! I have been thinking of the difference recently and I was wonder wether I should change to a pricier resin or not! This helps a lot.
I moved from anycubic ABS like to Sunlu ABS like a couple of weeks ago and the difference is night and day. Other that having to buy it from amazon because the Sunlu website was slightly cheaper but wanted £600 in shipping (that isn't a typo) to a UK mainland address.
I mainly print D and D monster models and I'm kicking myself for printing so many with the anycubic resin. It isn't tough it's brittle and the Sunlu resin is so mucb better.
Sunlu ABS-like has been a go-to for me for a long time. It's hard to beat for the price. Also, despite knowing that no shots of resin were actually being consumed (...right?), my stomach still turned. Well done.
Where is FREE Stl Miniature
Definitely not supporting somebody charging twice as much as the competition for no reason, lmao. Refusing review units guarantees it too, a move only employed by scummy companies.
Where is FREE StL for video is 2 mini's
i am glad that even before i watched this, i always had a feeling high detail resin claims were nonsense, i only buy anycubic plant resin, especially clear resin, the former because i buy 3 for 2 and the latter because i found the resin to be surprisingly easier to work with, be it durability and failure % during printing, correct me if i am wrong about it, but by adding stuff that changes the colour, it dillutes the UV sensitive part of the mixture and makes it less of a coherent blend, since all UV resin by default is clear when it's made in the factory. it could all be anecdotal evidence, but ever since i started using it, it just works out better, the only thing that is a bit worse, is that i need to apply thicker coat of a primer before painting, due to its transparent nature
Thank you for making the video of course
We honour your sacrifice! Cheers for the insight. I use Wargamer all the time, pretty much, but have also had nice bendy results with Resione TH72 and Jamg He but they're IPA wash only. I've printed a lot of chunky stuff in Anycubic ABS-like v2 which *is* water washable but it seems to get quite brittle over time (but this might just be resolved by actually painting the damn stuff so it doesn't continue to absorb water, something I'm bad at as when it's warm over here in Blighty I just print like a psycho then worry about painting later). You should have a nice big sleepy-bo's, then do another batch of resins to compare. Because it's not like you actually want to do any gaming or stuff like that, surely :)!
to answer the first question of does the resin matter, yes it does because for finer detail you need a thinner resin that wets the vat bottom fast enough that flows between the prints last layer and the FEP sheet fully before the next layer comes down or you will end up with voids.
the second consideration is how far does the uv light travel into the resin and how far it spills over to where its not supposed to cure. this is why dark gray is the favorite for fine detail it still cures fast enough but without light leakage like any of the translucent filaments.
yes theres plenty of resins sold with a bunch of bs marketing claims but the legit companies out there are ordering their resins with specific material properties, all 3d print resins (4 years ago) came from only 3 factories in china and 1 of them was responsible for the majority, since then idk i've been out of the industry and cant comment. point being even though most of the resins came from one location every brand had a unique formula based mostly on price because go figure better performing resins are more expensive to produce.
low shrinkage resin is really the most important aspect.
One of if not the best resin comparison video I've seen. Keep up the good work. Next bottle, Sunlu here I come!
Great overview of all the options available out there; thanks for taking the time to put this together!
I did same test for myself. And you are 100% right. I even printed on different resolution machines 4k 8k and 14 K. I have compared Sunlu abs, jamghe abs, elegoo 8k, Sunlu 14k, promes it and I didn't spot difference comparing side by side.
Question: for the Sunlu and Warmer resins, did they ever return to their original shape or did they stay bent? MY issue is sometimes resins will lose their rigidity and 'flop' especially for standard bearers. Sometimes I can counteract that through curing, but curious how this turned out for you.
Thats a good question I would like to know with wargamer as well. My sunlu stuff doesnt flop, but then again I dont print stuff like big heavy banners that rely on a single resin post to support it.
Regardless, thats a good question, and am commenting in hopes it leads to being notified about an answer.
I use the Sunlu, and I'd say in my experience it's pretty elastic. If I had to guess the plastic deformation point is probably pretty close to the breaking point if you were to make a proper stress-strain curve graph.
I mix 20% sunlu tenacious and 80% abs-like. It's a mix I'm _very_ nearly able to do both dimensional and strength curing at the same time. (I made a PID controlled heated vat and print at 32° C).
With the additional tenacious, they're even softer. Prints so far seem to return to the original shape with no problem. In fact, I've never had prints with "gummy bear" consistency.
Thanks! Cheers and much appreciation. I've been thinking about get Wargamer.
Cheers!
Really great video, it's fascinating to find this stuff out!
Hey this was a great video and super useful comparison, but I can't drop a like or endorse due to the resin drinking skit. You've no idea who could end up watching this video and its just irresponsible for a sake of joke that I don't think your video needs! You are funny and entertaining and informative without adding a gag like that. Also to anyone reading this comment, please don't drink resin, or handle it without proper protection!
I appreciate that!
I kinda wish you did some plant based resin. It would be interesting to see how those compare.
I'd like to argue that the models all feature various imperfections such as not sitting flat against the table, some dimensional skewing over their total print length (the stance on some of the space marines and beast hunters vary notably between photos when compared side by side) etc.
I'd be interested in seeing what the total dimensional inaccuracy is for each of the print batches, relative to each other (and relative to what the slicer reports as correct), the calibration tests came out good but some of these resins clearly had better dimensional stability than others.
Your experience with the Aqua red clay is odd. I've found it to be very easy to calibrate (It's one of the resins I used for the cones v3 alpha test back in late 2023) and has been pretty resilient to temperature changes (I'm still using the calibration I arrived at in December, printing anywhere from 23C all the way to 30C without issues) I'm wondering if you've got a bad bottle or something.
[edit] Yeah, even the smell doesn't seem to line up with my experience. I mean, it's certainly not odorless, but I found elegoo 8k to be much worse than phrozen smell-wise. I definitely think you got a bottle from a bad batch or something... or maybe it was old? Hard to say, but your experience with it was way different than mine, outside of the exposure (for me it's at 1.4s, by far the fastest resin I've used)
Long time product reviewer here. Great protocol for your testing.
Just ordered a Saturn with the resin it recommended (their abs like) not thinking about if it would be good for minis. Almost went to panic buy their 8k resin but decided to watch a video on it first. Exactly what i needed to quiet needless buyers remorse. 👍
Wow! What a great video and exhaustive work to compare the resins!!!!
19:32 That's the most important point 💯 People get too hyper-focused on the sharpness of their prints. You're not making equipment for NASA. Get the resin that behaves the way you need it to at a price you're willing to pay.
wow man, 3d print videos not paid for that are actually super helpful. Thank you for doing all this work!
I’ve tried most of these, mostly in 60/40, 70/30, and 80/20 blends for details and strength. The resins I’m using pretty much exclusively now are Conjure Standard 8K Grey (or Black) and Conjure Rigid Grey (or Black). I’m using an 80% Standard 8K to 20% Rigid blend. I’ve found that gives me the performance I’m looking for.
Amazing video as always. I think you're single handedly driving the miniature printing resin market towards better products! I know this video is changing the way I think about how I'm going to buy resin from now on.
I choose the 8k space grey moslty for the color and how the details can be better appreciated than the black with lighting the basic grey is too light for me. Basically just color.
Great video mate! glad you did this, the idea of testing multiple resins again is like pulling teeth. it took us over 30 different bottles just to get the recipe right for this!
For real it's brutal haha. Cheers for stopping by, and great work on Wargamer! You've definitely put together a nice resin for minis
@@OnceinaSixSide Thanks Brother! that was always the intention!
Dude this was a great video! For anyone buying resin in 2024 here's the video that's going to let you know what you need.
Fantastic breakdown, appreciate your work. What would you pair food wise with the flavor of each resin?
This video is remarkably invaluable. I just got into 3D printing and I needed to know which resin tastes the best. I'm building up an immunity.
Such a helpful video. Thanks for making it!
No worries! 😁🍻
"we could be a quater of a second over or under. .. I would argue that that margin of error is functionally meangless"
I worked on the cones v3 development and from that I would say within 5% is perfect and any lower is actaully meangless because no consumer machine has better uv uniformity than that, within 10% is good and practically meangless. However with 0.25s at 1s that is 25% jumps which is HUGE. It's really not about the seconds, it's about the %, so at 2-4s 0.25s is a reasonable interval but not at 1s.
Considering that most of the resins are sitting at or above 2 seconds of exposure time. It's fine.
But might it also come down to what the mechanics and electronics can physically do?
5% of a 2-second exposure time is 0.1-seconds. Can the electronics switch the light on or off in 100 milliseconds? How long does it take for the UV light to fully "warm up" and emit full lumens? Can the hardware used in these consumer machines actually switch the UV light fully on and then fully off in precisely 2.1 seconds vs 2.2 seconds?
It's like the layer height. We talk about layer heights in terms of 50um or 20um etc, but the physical mechanics of the stepper motor actually determine what the smallest z height increment is and what the actual steps are between one layer height and the next, based on how many microsteps the motor can do. I can't wrap my head around the maths but it's possible that when you set a layer height of 20um, the machine is only able to manage some random incremental number like 24.6um. (Again, the specific details are beyond me but it's been explained that its a physical limitation in the stepper hardware)
@@Starganderfish "Can the electronics switch the light on or off in 100 milliseconds? How long does it take for the UV light to fully "warm up" and emit full lumens?"
even if the light isn't fast enough the LCD is. most makers don't say what hz they run the LCD at but it's safe to assume that most are at least 10hz so 0.1s changes should work and from my expirience with a few printers they do. anycubic rerf does 0.25 jumps, I don't believe they run at 4hz, that would be mad so more likely they run at 20hz.
also even if it takes say 0.5s for the light to start/stop fully emmitting light if you change when it stops by 0.1s it will still change total exposure by 0.1s. eg resin cures a bit after the light goes off, this could be for like 0.5-1s, that doesn't mean you can't change how long you cure with more precision than that.
and on the z steps, IIRC they are usually so small that the bigger concern is actually just the reliability of the hardware, eg ball bearing z screws are better so they can more reliabily get the right layer height, any wear or dirt etc in the screw or rails and you can start to get lines on all your prints, I've seen that loads, but I've never seen lines from limits of the step size.
Can we get that RERF STL you made?
I love that you primed the figures to give a level playing field and the availability of the hi res images is also fantastic.
I wonder though if there could be some effect in the brittleness during the exposure duration??
Sunlu abs like, ive used it for minis and a Daemon shaped sword sheath.
Doing those without changing resin is remarkable in its self
The major contributor to detail differences in my personal experience are from the STL files themselves.
Oof i dread vat cleaning and you needed to do it so many times. Also, if you keep doing vat cleans there are plenty of vat holder models to make it less painful.
The human eye can only see so much. Graphics are irrelevant after a point, and the same applies to this. Your eye can only see details so small.
YEAH Once you Hit Good enough I say 4K anything higher you you can't even see with out like a Magnifying glass. Its liek the bad Old days of CD speed 4X 8X 24X 36X 100X all market i BS after about 24X or so.
But there are other uses for resin printers. I'm using mine to create printed circuit boards and specialized antennas. More resolution = exponentially more value for the products I design and build.
I feel like out of all of this, without any resin experience myself, I would definitely go for something like the Sunlu ABS-like for the fact that it seem like a good combination of value, quality, and speed while also being somewhat easier to work with for being slightly pliable and less brittle
Since light (in a specific wavelength band) is used to cure the resin and it must have a certain transparency allowing a "depth" to be cured it will boil down to the scattering effects in the resin versus the possible depth of cure. This is because apart from the depth, the scattering will cause curing sideways from the intended location as well. Reducing the "resolution" or sharpness in all 3 axis.
Excellent. A very useful vid. I'd love to see a similar study done on different resins dependency on temperature, seeing as it's THE key factor for resin printing for me.
Really great breakdown. One sticking point though - comparing standard resins to ABS-like resins side by side for durability tests is apples to oranges. Of course the ABS-like is going to be more durable. Standard resins are brittle in general. I've been using Sunlu ABS-like exclusively for the last year and it's my favorite. It's cheap and durable, but comparing it to standard resins isn't a fair test.
I love that you put numbers on the calibration prints. Any chance we can get copies?
I have personally loved Zmud, it is my go to resin, the secret to printing with it is heat believe it or not, i keep my printing enclosure at 30 and make sure i keep a bottle prewarmed if i need to top up prints. I buy 5 litre bottles for a fraction of the price of other brands so the electricity a little space heater consumes is nothing compared to the money i save on resin.
The thing that really shines for me with Sunlu is how much less it smells (like exponentially less) than Elegoo and Phrozen - until it goes under the curing light; then they're about even.
what pisses me off about current printers more than the lack of tuning modes, is the crappy reservoir design that doesn't allow you to pour resin without having it spill everywhere.
Have you tried reusable nitrile gloves? They're a bit thicker so you lose a bit of feel but you just rinse them in your IPA bath and they're good to go again. Saves a ton of cash and waste.
Hey, just a suggestion but I use a 3/4 inch chisel ground putty knife to remove prints. It is a little flexible and is sharp enough to get under the prints.
So what I use as a scraper to remove prints form my Saturn S is actually a cheap wood chisel. The chisel has a sharp edge to get under the resin, and the weight and rigidity to allow me to just tap it and pop the parts free. I bring it up because you look like you are absolutely struggling with that xacto blade. And to be honest, the scrappers that come with the machines are garbage.
For your bend test, if you really wanted to, you could get a force meter and use that to measure the exact amount of force needed to snap a print.
I'm glad you've done this as when I got my Saturn 3 ultra I got some 8k resin and couldn't see any difference between it and some Sunlu standard resin, and thought then, I smell BS. I put it down to my age (62) and my aging eyesight or me being a cynic.
Love when the buns make an appearance too.