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Volvo XC90 Parking Brake Common Fault & Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2022
- In this video we have a 2008 Volvo XC90 with an automatic transmission & a foot pedal parking brake. These types of parking brakes have a really common fault with a seized component buried deep in the rear braking system.
Typical symptoms will be the rear brakes binding on, squealing, reduced parking brake performance and a lose parking brake foot pedal. These types of symptoms will also have a negative effect from an MOT point of view and could more than likely cause the vehicle to fail its MOT test.
It’s a complicated and long winded job BUT, this video is designed to give you key tips and knowledge to understand how the system works and how it can be repaired.
Well made video with good information!
Thank's a lot
Mate, you smashed it with this video! Awesome walk through and really good idea to educate on specific components and their function before actually doing anything, so many don’t do that.
Hi there, thank you so much for the feedback. Really good to know that all the information provided make sense and is helping. Thanks for your support 👍
I'm doing my brother in laws parking brake and this was very helpful, thank you!
He's unwound the adjuster quite far from the retaining clip, which is also missing, and I just can't get it free. How important is that adjuster and does it need the retaining clip in place?
Fantastic video. Just about to undertake this fix on my own 2012 XC90 and know just what to look out for. 1st to remove the discs and see what it going on. Think I'll take the centre console out to be sure everything is sitting in the equaliser as it should, as currently I have no resistance at all, with brake applied fully.
A good tip is to fasten two small cable ties to secure the rear cables to the equaliser.
great video, that parking brake is somewhat difficult to adjust but you seem to have shown us all the components and how to perform the adjustment, thanks for sharing your knowledge, cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
It’s my pleasure. So glad the video was able to help & thank you so much for your positive feedback 👍
Superb video, very thorough and well explained throughout. Had the seized handbrake issue back at beginning of year - sounded like a freight train slamming the anchors on before it got sorted 😂.
The 90's handbrake is awful anyway, but your tutorial was very useful in taking up cable slack at the front end - never thought it would be that simple 👍🏻
Really appreciate the positive feedback but apologies for the late response. It's great to know my videos are helping and it just encourages me to make more. Thanks again for your on-going support and glad you enjoyed. All the best.
Excellent and clearly explained! Thanks a lot! 😃👌
Hi, thank you for such a positive comment. Glad the video could help. All the best
Another solution is to let the part sit in Krud Kutter - The Must for Rust or Evapo-Rust for a while. Depending on the level of rust, it can take a few hours or a whole day.
Exactly my problem.. awesome thanks!
brilliant video , thank you so much
More than welcome, glad I could help 👍
Absolutely perfect description of how it all works. I would have appreciated the actual removal of the parking brake shoes. Another thing, when adjusting the cable, clockwise to release and anticlockwise to fasten the cable that you pull out (with the racheting sound as described) can it actually become lose i.e. completely unfastened and if so how do you proceed ?
Thanks for a great video.
Hi, thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated especially for future videos. I realised when editing I didn’t film the removal 🤦♂️ If I’ve read you’re message correctly I presume with the ratchet mechanism locked, you’re now pulling the cable out of the cylinder to adjust the system? If so, the cable should come out about 2/3 inches and should be quite tough to pull out. If it comes out fairly easy then you may be in the same situation that I was where the cable wasn’t attached to each cable located under the centre console. As long as the cylinder has been locked off correctly then no, when pulling out the cable it will not completely come out. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch
@@greenautoservices Good morning, yes it didn't completely come out but revealed two/three notches/groves similar to the one where the locking C clip afixes to prevent the mechanism from unlocking itself.
I have tried as suggested in your video (great video) and I've only managed to reduce the parking brake to zip. I have noticed that when I apply the foot brake nothing happens on the cable, no tension, no pull, just nothing. This would suggest that the issue is between the foot paddle and the tensioner ? So as not to jump the gun, I purchased a new rear disc, new hand brake pads, new parking kit (spings) and proceeded to take the drum apart. However, it turned out that it all looked and fitted perfectly, not only that it all looked pretty new and recently replaced.
So I am now back to my first diagnoses why is there no tension/movement when applying the foot brake to the beginning of the cable that feeds into the tensioner ?
@@Ayo04Soul In my experience I’ve never had or found an issue between the foot pedal/cable and tensioner. My next point of call is to check where the parking brake cable is attached to the equaliser. This is AFTER the cylinder adjuster, which is located under the centre console. It doesn’t happen often but like in my video, it happened to me and the XC90 I was working on. When the system is completely de-adjusted the slack in the line allows it to disconnect from one or both handbrake lines before it goes through the body and under the vehicle. It may just be a case of hooking it back in. As long as you’ve ruled out any other issues then this is what I would be checking next. Hope that helps and good luck
@@greenautoservices it's fully attached. I should have mentioned it earlier. I have the center console completely removed. The left and right hand brake cables are properly attached to the equalizer.
I tried applying the foot paddle while I held onto the cable from the paddle to the tensioner but nothing at all.
If you are in north London I would trust handling the car to you for the job?
@@Ayo04Soul It’s completely understandable. It’s difficult to try and explain every little details over messages. Well at least you’ve got access to the equaliser. Have you tried pushing down on the foot pedal and watching to see if the equaliser under the centre console pulls the 2 hand brake cables? You can even hold the equaliser by hand and take up any slack just to see if the pedal is pulling anything at all. At least then you’ll confirm if that part of the system is broken or not. That way you know which direction in the system the fault lies. Personally, before I strip out sections of the centre console/footwells to chase the cable to the foot pedal, I would still at least strip down the rear brakes (if you have not done so already) and check the levers to the parking brake shoes (just like in my video) or any other mechanical parts for that matter. If the levers are seized (as though the parking brake in constantly on) then there may be so much slack in the cable system that you may not even feel the parking pedal pull anything because it taking up all the slack. If I’m ever in North London then of course I’ll be in touch but I rarely am. Especially for a job like this, I’d need the vehicle at my garage where I have access to the correct tools if I need them 😊
My back breaks is cool but my front breaks is grabbing not allowing my volvo to move
Hi Reggie. Thanks for getting in touch. So your front brakes binding could be a couple of issues. Your caliper may be seized, pads stuck in the carrier or perhaps the sliders are seized. I’d recommend having your front brakes thoroughly inspected for any issues. If it’s not allowing the vehicle to move then it may be quite obvious when taking your brakes apart what is at fault. Hope you get it resolved. Thanks for your support 👍
nice video
Thank you very much :)
I'm wondering if the equiliser dropped off when you released all tension then reapplied it once you'd fitted the shoes etc, maybe if people adjust it so it's still together in order to keep to it located and enable you to work on it before tensioning back up?
Hi, yes quite likely. Just my luck but I’ve done quite a few and that was the first time it happened. You love and learn. The only thing is with worn discs that create a lip internally where the shoes sit, unless you completely release the system then the discs won’t be able to be removed without potentially damaging something.
@@greenautoservices mine are slightly bedded in I do manage with some fighting to remove the disk and completely agree releasing the tension will help, thanks for the video as before hand I had no idea where the tensioner was etc.
@@adamwiseman1906 yeah, they can put up a bit of a fight if that’s the case. Really glad the video helped and thanks for getting in touch. All the best 👍
Great video. Thanks for sharing ! Do you know the torque settings for the nuts on this XC90?
Thank you for your feedback, much appreciated. Tightening torques for wheel bolts on the particular vehicle in the video are 140Nm
but if you mot'd it how was the handbrake working?
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. So from what I remember as it was a while ago now the handbrake test on the MOT only just met requirements so it still passed. It was advised to the customer that there be an underline issue and they wanted it investigating further.
Hi there,
Does the car have to be on the floor?
Not at all. I’m lucky enough to have a ramp so that all wheels are off the floor for ease of turning the wheels for diagnosis. You can attack each of the back wheels one at a time and then adjust everything up as you go.
can a cable become over stretched 👍
Hi, yes a cable can stretch over a long period time of use. Although, it’s not common for a stretched cable to be the root cause of this common issue. Before throwing a set of cable at the car, make sure you check all the common issues outlined in the video. Anything else, please let me know. 👍
@@greenautoservices when adjusting the cable with spanners as levers, I started to expose the ridges on the shaft about 6, what does this tell us? very informative video👍
@@geoffreygcotton I presume once you locked off the adjuster and pulled the cable out to adjust it became more tighter the more you pulled it out? If so, that’s what to expect and the thread that consequently gets exposed it absolutely fine and normal to see.
i’m losing the will to live, new volvo rear discs, pads, shoes, spring kit, levers nice and free, cables attached to equaliser, adjusted as video, i get 7 clicks, on a medium hill it holds, but a steeper hill just rolls away??
Don’t worry, I have another suggestion which may solve this. You need to allow the shoes to bed into the new discs. Take the vehicle for a drive and apply the parking brake slowly whilst the vehicle is in motion. When the parking brake is applied and you feel the car starting to slow down under resistance try and hold the parking brake on for approx 3-5 seconds then release. Do this a couple of times. What this does, is allow any factory applied oils to get burnt off the friction surfaces and makes a much better hold. Then try the parking brake on a gradient and see if it holds. You’ll more than likely find that it will hold the vehicle a lot better. If that works then awesome stuff otherwise you may just need to go back to the adjust and pull out the cable a tad more. You’ve got this, good luck
Hi Green auto service - I have an issue with my xc90 2007 auto. The parking brake has no tension at all, I always use my foot brake and today out of the blue I tried to use it and there was no resistance at all. The handbrake does not work. Would what you showed be the issue? Or could it be the cable has snapped?
Hi there. The issue specifically covered in this video is such a common issue that it is more than likely the cause and I have not seen one Volvo XC90 using this foot peddle system that has had a cable snap. Although it happened all of a sudden, that’s not to say it still won’t be the levers inside the rear discs. But usually the parking brake efficiency would get worse gradually rather than all of a sudden.
As a technician, I personally would strip down the rear brakes to see if the parking brake lever(s) are seized. If one side has, you can almost guarantee that the other side will have or will be soon after. Unless you can’t fault the rear brakes then I’d turn my attention back to the adjuster or equaliser. Hope this information helps 👍
@@greenautoservices thank you! I will give this a try. Many thanks for a great video and a comprehensive response
hi mate where are you based
Hi Peter, Great Missenden in Buckinghamshire
We were disappointed that you didn't show the disassembly and reassembly of the parts. I also noticed that you didn't have all of the parts from the right-side assembly, the flat splitter bar was missing. You left out the "meat" of the video.
Hi there. I know , apologies. I can only put that down to rookie error on my behalf trying to film and work at the same time especially for one of my first videos. Hopefully though you managed to find the root cause of your parking brake issue. I’ll be sure to ensure as complete coverage as possible in my future content. All the best and thanks again 👍
Where's your garage located here in UK?
It’s a company I work for but will have my own garage soon. I’m currently based in Buckinghamshire just outside London
@@greenautoservices just wondering if you could help me fix my car some day. I believe i can trust you. Im a bit far from your location though. I live in hitchin hertfordshire
@@reynauldayson in the grand scheme of things you are not too far away at all. Perhaps in the meantime if you have any specific requirements I’d be happy to try and put together a video for the future. Otherwise early to mid next year I’ll be setting up independently and I’m sure we can arrange to look after your vehicle.
@@greenautoservices i'd be glad to let you fix my car mate. There's a very loud sqeaking sound somewhere in the rear wheels. With trouble codes 0109 and 0108.
@@reynauldayson I presume you have a Volvo XC90 or do you have another vehicle in question? Sounds like you may have 2 different issues; fault codes may be referring and an engine/electrical fault and the knock may perhaps be something mechanical worn or wearing.
What a shit system absolute ball ache
Great video btw👍👍👍
Hey nice video but you left out assembly. I had my parking brakes done by a mechanic, new cables and all. Now one side started binding while the other is ok. Any tips? Could it be the same problem you describe? What's the part called?
Hi, thanks for the positive feedback. I know, it was one of the first videos I filmed and turns out I didn’t have the camera recording for that part 🤦♂️ regarding the brakes binding on one side it is likely that what I discussed in my video could still be the underline issue. So the part that seizes commonly is the parking brake shoes actuator/lever. Normally when you replace the parking shoes you wouldn’t need to remove this component to do so, HOWEVER, it is very easy to inspect to see if it has seized or at least has limited movement. Considering it’s such an in depth replacement I personally would remove the actuator/lever and make sure it’s as free as I show in my video. I’d recommend to take it back to the mechanic who did your brakes as I’m sure they’d be happy to rectify. I doubt it’s an adjustment issue otherwise it would be happening to both sides, not just the one. Hope this helps and thanks again for getting in touch. All the best 👍
@@greenautoservices hey thanks for the response. I can't take it back now really as it's been over 2 years now. I'm glad I found your video as it really makes sense. When I first picked up the car from the garage it went through yearly inspection, the MOT, without fail but on the first hill I went ahead to pull the brake up and the car started rolling back. So the mechanic must've known about it and just left it as is and must be friends with testing garage because there's no way it would have passed inspection with non working handbrake. What I did was to tighten the cables up but it still wasn't as strong of a stopping force as before. I left it as is thinking maybe it needs time to settle in or something but now I see my mistake. Should've taken it back then. I checked and the cables were changed along with shoes and springs so this actuator must be the only thing that makes it bind. Can't see anything else failing after watching your video. This is why I hate taking car to mechanics. I feel less stressed researching and DIY as much as I can on it. Anyway props for the advice. You seem like one of those honest mechanics, hope you have alot of business. Take care mate 👊👍
Edit: where's your garage located?
@@papiezguwniak totally understand, it happens. If that actuator wasn’t cleaned or at least checked at the time it makes adjusting the system difficult to perfect and work as it should. Even if it’s slightly stuck it will cause the brakes to bind. Glad I could help though & thanks again.
@@greenautoservices thanks again mate. I'll be checking and fixing it myself now. Really appreciate your responses. What would you recommend lubricating the actuator pivot with? I was thinking copper grease.
@@papiezguwniak Copper grease is perfect, it’s what I use every time 👍
Throw that “H” shaped spacer away and buy an adjustable spacer from one of the older Volvo models ie Volvo 850 recommended by Volvo. It makes adjusting handbrake easier.
And that’s why in this industry mechanics are constantly learning and finding out new stuff. Really good to know. Thanks for getting in touch 👍
@@greenautoservices no no, thank you for taking the time for not only fixing cars but putting considerable extra effort into videoing the whole thing & making our lives that little bit easier 👍