For the Simpson adapter in order for it to reduce the pressure at the nozzle it will increase the back pressure. Adapt your pressure gauge for right after the Simpson adapter and you will see a difference
Exactly... the pressure needs to be measured AFTER the reducer. It should also work at the discharge from the pump so you don't have the extra length and weight on the wand.
I didn't read anything but was thinking that there was no way it was reducing the pressure behind it, only in changing how much the machine was working. Also makes sense to put it on at the machine like Murray said so the wand is not as heavy and less likely to be bumped and change the setting.
@@imjoshv So was there a follow up with the gauge after the regulator? I'd be very curious about the results. I suspect this is why min and max seemed to be backward.
When the back pressure behind the adapter increases it would signify a corresponding drop in PSI after the adapter, so it works exactly how you thought it should. In order to see the drop in pressure you would have to measure the pressure after the adapter (towards the end of the wand).
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust th-cam.com/users/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
My thought is that your gauge is on the wrong side when testing the pressure reducer. It’s on the inlet side and you should be testing the pressure after it goes through the pressure reducer, the outlet side. Thanks for your videos,, very helpful.
GREAT and VERY informative video on adjusting the PSI and GPMs for pressure washers! Thanks for posting! I just bought a Simpson 1700 PSI 1.0 GPM pressure washer for detailing my car. Glad to know that the PSI and GPM can be easily adjusted for it!!
Great information, just started detailing and I’m starting off with my dad’s old pressure washer that he gifted me, I was really concerned about damaging anyone’s paint since I know it’s pretty powerful, these tips you provided had the answers I needed.
Extremely helpful video! Earlier today I ordered the McKillans Short Pressure Washer Gun with Swivel after seeing you recommend it in multiple videos then I realized it did not come with any tips! I have a Karcher 1800 PSI electric pressure washer that I'll be using. I just ordered from your link above the 3.0 orifice tips and will plan using the 40 degree tip for my car like I believe you recommended in another video. Using the pressure washer to wash my car is brand new to me so I can't wait to get all my supplies in and try it out, including the 50' hose you recommended and the MJJC foam cannon!
As a few others have said-you need to plug your gauge in the end of the regulator, not where the pressure goes into the gun!!! I really like your videos and have gotten some great advice, thanks and keep up the good work
Yea I agree, I think that’s how they are actually rated from testing. However, I like to test it where I do because I think that gives a better representation of what is coming out of the nozzle and what the actual usable psi is. Thanks so much for the input and support!!
@@imjoshv they way you tested it does NOT test what is coming out of the nozzle, it does though test the actual usable psi that the pressure washer is putting out. I am actually on amazon right now ordering a few things after watching your videos, and yes, I will be using your links!
Oh I see what you’re saying! I thought you meant having the gauge at the pump (which i think is where they have it placed when testing for rating) so where I have it shows if there is any loss through the hose. But yea at the actual nozzle would be nice but I can’t find a 1/4 gauge. I would like to have a sensor i could spray on to to see the psi at different distances…that would be great
@@imjoshv having a sensor to spray on would be pretty cool. I will look around and see if I can find the quick release fitting that would hook to your gauge so you could just plug it into the end of the gun. will take me probably a few days when I can get time to look for it. if I find it I will let you know.
@@imjoshv If the regulator and also the adapters for the gauge are m22, them moving the regulator in front of the quick connect might come pretty close to what you need. It's not at the nozzle but is in the right order.
Your reading the pressure on the wrong side. You know how a regulator works right? You measure the pressure after it. Before is what the washer is putting out.
Thanks for the insight Josh. Your right, these kind of videos do save us money. I wash my truck under the garage when the sun is out and like using my pressure washer without having to swap between washer and garden hose but my garage is not designed to get water on the walls so I was looking for a way to greatly reduce pressure when rinsing the hood or roof so because of this video I bought the largest nozzle I could find at northern tools, a 7.5. It helps a lot but still not perfect. Thinking of drilling a nozzle out.
The unloader on the pump adjusts the psi, and you measure the psi, which is measured with the machine on and the hose nozzle off. basically, it is a measurement of the pressure in the hose. Of course the more concentrated the stream is, the larger the psi is, hitting the surface, If the water only his a one square inch area, that would be twice the psi of moving it slightly back, or using a bigger tip to make that are 2 square inches.
So, even with 1,100psi, you can use a tiny tip and get very close to the surface, and the psi will be much greater than 1,100psi. The reason for a more powerful pressure washer is that you can cover a much wider area with the same psi.
Thanks for the video. A question: say you have a pressure washer and no way to measure the pressure. How do you know what orifice to use to reduce from say 2500psi to 1000psi. It seems to me that the orifice dimension has a linear relationship with the pressure, which suggest that those numbers 2.5 and 3.0 are area numbers. Am I right?
Curious is the psi rating of the washer affects the results from different orifices. Example - you were getting 2000psi from that craftsman, which dropped to 1200psi with the 2.5mm orifice nozzle. Should you still get 1200psi from the 2.5mm nozzle if you were using, say, the Greenworks 1700psi 1.2gpm washer?
Great video. Question - I can't find on your other videos - for interior dash / door trim etc - do you recommend the 303 UV or the water based dressing (you have both linked)? When do you use one over the other?
The problem is you conntected the psi reader in the wrong place, you connected it after the hose exit, meaning it is showing the pressure of the machine without nozzle, in order to measure the pressure of the water exiting, it should be connected after your nozzle…
Josh-You're doing a great job with your videos! Keep it up! In agreement with another comment, I was thinking the second number in the nozzle number indicates the GPM. You mentioned it was the orifice size in mm. For example, I was thinking a number 40030 nozzle means a 40 degree pattern and a 3 GPM flow rate. Am I wrong?
No that’s correct, however just using a tip won’t actually get to 3gpm so I relate it by size instead to convey a larger orifice that drops psi and increases gpm. But a 40030 on the ryobi 1600 would only produce about 1.5 gpm not 3
@@imjoshv Maybe a more accurate way to think of it is the 3.0 orifice is CAPABLE of producing a flow of 3 GPM depending on the pressure washer source. Anyway, I would like to say that I have learned quite a bit watching your videos and appreciate what you're doing very much.
I just came across your channel. Thank you for the informational video. I was wondering if you had any videos on removing peeling paint from exterior buildings. Such what pressure, which nozzles etc.? Thank you.
I repaired a pressure washer someone gave me. Once it started running, I tested it, and it now is building pressure as it is supposed, but coming out the nozzle is a very weak stream. Could it just be that it is a cheap/damaged wand or nozzle with an oversized hole?
So what’s the “safe” PSI for washing cars? From previous research i was told anything under 2000. On your video for the Greenworks 2300 psi the 40 had a 1400 psi and the 25 about 1800. Are both still safe? I thought the 40 was too wide but I was scared about using the 25.
Hi Josh big fan of your videos. I could use some advice on orifice size for my pressure washer. I have a Dewalt electric Pressure Washer that is rated at 2400 PSI and 1.1 GPM. IDK what the orifice size is on the factory nozzles and do need perfect readings. I was hoping that you could recommend 1 orifice size that would produce PSI amd GPM more conducive with auto detailing than the factory settings. I do not have a Pressure meter to measure that actual readings amd would like to avoid buying multiple bags if different size orifice nozzles. Something close to the rates u prefer would work just fine for my needs. I'd like lower pressure amd higher flow rate to help me flush away soap and contaminants. Is there 1 size orifice that u could recommend that would bring me closer to 1000 -1200 PSI and almost 2 GPM? Is that even possible? If so which size would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any help u may be able to lend
So I just got the Ryobi 2700 psi electric pressure washer for fathers day and watched your video to just have peace of mind while power washing our vehicles and not have to worry as much about ripping paint off them would you recommend going with the 3.0 orifice on this to drop it down to a safe psi or something bigger or smaller?
Great vids, just discovered your channel! I have a ryobi 2900 psi 2.5gpm gas pressure washer I would like to use for the car. What size orifice attachments should I get to reduce the PSI to safely use on the vehicles? I believe it comes with a 3.0 according to the chart.
What is the guage your using to monitor the pressure? I’ve been looking for one that has the quick connects, but wasn’t sure if you made that or bought it.
I can’t figure out why my psi is only getting to about 400psi but when I use the turbo nozzle it gets to 1000psi but only with that nozzle. When I use a 3.0 or 2.5 Orifice it gets to about 400psi😢 . Could the regulator raise my pressure if I’m only getting 400psi out of my ryobi 2000psi pressure washer?
Returned the 30 dollar craftsman "foam cannon". I got my tool daily 3.0 orfice for the craftsman 1900 psi unit and the twinkle star foam cannon. All for 30 bucks.
So since the 3.0 nozel dropped it basically in half from 2k to 1k would that be the case for a higher psi aswell? Like if I have a 3k psi it should drop it to 1500?
Hey Josh, I recently bought Ryobi 40v 1500 psi whisper washer after watching your review. It didn't come with 40 degree nozzle, only 25. Which orifice size nozzles do you recommend (2.0,2.5,3.0)for washing my car for this Ryobi? I'm gonna be using MTM gun with it.
So why not use the psi adjuster that you were getting 2300 psi with stock nozzle. Switch it to a 3.0 and see what gpm and psi you are getting compared to not having the psi adjustment attachment.
Obviously you don't understand how this is working. You put a restriction after the pump and before that restriction you put your pressure gauge. When you close whatever that is it's going to increase the pressure in the line and decrease the pressure after that. Your problem is your gauge location. In order to find out what the PSI is coming out the gauge has to be "after" The restriction thing that you bought.
Hey man great videos, I have a question I have Simpson 3000 psi powered gas pressure washer what tip will be good to apply the right psi pressure to the cars?
For the Simpson adapter in order for it to reduce the pressure at the nozzle it will increase the back pressure. Adapt your pressure gauge for right after the Simpson adapter and you will see a difference
Thank you
Exactly... the pressure needs to be measured AFTER the reducer. It should also work at the discharge from the pump so you don't have the extra length and weight on the wand.
I didn't read anything but was thinking that there was no way it was reducing the pressure behind it, only in changing how much the machine was working. Also makes sense to put it on at the machine like Murray said so the wand is not as heavy and less likely to be bumped and change the setting.
@@imjoshv So was there a follow up with the gauge after the regulator? I'd be very curious about the results. I suspect this is why min and max seemed to be backward.
He was reading line pressure not output pressure
When the back pressure behind the adapter increases it would signify a corresponding drop in PSI after the adapter, so it works exactly how you thought it should. In order to see the drop in pressure you would have to measure the pressure after the adapter (towards the end of the wand).
Pretty sure he knew this, and explained that the increase in back pressure may actually put wear on the engine.
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust th-cam.com/users/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
My thought is that your gauge is on the wrong side when testing the pressure reducer. It’s on the inlet side and you should be testing the pressure after it goes through the pressure reducer, the outlet side. Thanks for your videos,, very helpful.
Same as prv in an air line. Pressure is higher on pump side with the gauge because you're restricting the other side of regulator. Common sense to me.
GREAT and VERY informative video on adjusting the PSI and GPMs for pressure washers! Thanks for posting! I just bought a Simpson 1700 PSI 1.0 GPM pressure washer for detailing my car. Glad to know that the PSI and GPM can be easily adjusted for it!!
Great information, just started detailing and I’m starting off with my dad’s old pressure washer that he gifted me, I was really concerned about damaging anyone’s paint since I know it’s pretty powerful, these tips you provided had the answers I needed.
Extremely helpful video! Earlier today I ordered the McKillans Short Pressure Washer Gun with Swivel after seeing you recommend it in multiple videos then I realized it did not come with any tips! I have a Karcher 1800 PSI electric pressure washer that I'll be using. I just ordered from your link above the 3.0 orifice tips and will plan using the 40 degree tip for my car like I believe you recommended in another video. Using the pressure washer to wash my car is brand new to me so I can't wait to get all my supplies in and try it out, including the 50' hose you recommended and the MJJC foam cannon!
Great video. Read the description and thought you had a broken regulator but it makes sense there is increased back pressure.
Exactly!
I've been waiting for a video like this for a long time. Thank you for that valuable information 👌, you will go far.
Appreciate you always taking the time to always thoroughly test out these products
As a few others have said-you need to plug your gauge in the end of the regulator, not where the pressure goes into the gun!!! I really like your videos and have gotten some great advice, thanks and keep up the good work
Yea I agree, I think that’s how they are actually rated from testing. However, I like to test it where I do because I think that gives a better representation of what is coming out of the nozzle and what the actual usable psi is. Thanks so much for the input and support!!
@@imjoshv they way you tested it does NOT test what is coming out of the nozzle, it does though test the actual usable psi that the pressure washer is putting out. I am actually on amazon right now ordering a few things after watching your videos, and yes, I will be using your links!
Oh I see what you’re saying! I thought you meant having the gauge at the pump (which i think is where they have it placed when testing for rating) so where I have it shows if there is any loss through the hose. But yea at the actual nozzle would be nice but I can’t find a 1/4 gauge. I would like to have a sensor i could spray on to to see the psi at different distances…that would be great
@@imjoshv having a sensor to spray on would be pretty cool. I will look around and see if I can find the quick release fitting that would hook to your gauge so you could just plug it into the end of the gun. will take me probably a few days when I can get time to look for it. if I find it I will let you know.
@@imjoshv If the regulator and also the adapters for the gauge are m22, them moving the regulator in front of the quick connect might come pretty close to what you need. It's not at the nozzle but is in the right order.
Your reading the pressure on the wrong side. You know how a regulator works right? You measure the pressure after it. Before is what the washer is putting out.
Thanks for the insight Josh. Your right, these kind of videos do save us money. I wash my truck under the garage when the sun is out and like using my pressure washer without having to swap between washer and garden hose but my garage is not designed to get water on the walls so I was looking for a way to greatly reduce pressure when rinsing the hood or roof so because of this video I bought the largest nozzle I could find at northern tools, a 7.5. It helps a lot but still not perfect. Thinking of drilling a nozzle out.
I believe you’d have to put that on the end to measure. If it’s closing decreasing psi the way it is then the mechanism is doing by blocking flow
I wish you would have checked GPM with the different orifice sizes.
The unloader on the pump adjusts the psi, and you measure the psi, which is measured with the machine on and the hose nozzle off. basically, it is a measurement of the pressure in the hose. Of course the more concentrated the stream is, the larger the psi is, hitting the surface, If the water only his a one square inch area, that would be twice the psi of moving it slightly back, or using a bigger tip to make that are 2 square inches.
So, even with 1,100psi, you can use a tiny tip and get very close to the surface, and the psi will be much greater than 1,100psi. The reason for a more powerful pressure washer is that you can cover a much wider area with the same psi.
Good job Josh. Thanks for anther excellent tutorial 👍
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video. A question: say you have a pressure washer and no way to measure the pressure. How do you know what orifice to use to reduce from say 2500psi to 1000psi. It seems to me that the orifice dimension has a linear relationship with the pressure, which suggest that those numbers 2.5 and 3.0 are area numbers. Am I right?
Curious is the psi rating of the washer affects the results from different orifices. Example - you were getting 2000psi from that craftsman, which dropped to 1200psi with the 2.5mm orifice nozzle. Should you still get 1200psi from the 2.5mm nozzle if you were using, say, the Greenworks 1700psi 1.2gpm washer?
11:30 ive heard the smaller orifice like a 1.1 would give much better gpm than a 1.25
Great video. Question - I can't find on your other videos - for interior dash / door trim etc - do you recommend the 303 UV or the water based dressing (you have both linked)? When do you use one over the other?
The problem is you conntected the psi reader in the wrong place, you connected it after the hose exit, meaning it is showing the pressure of the machine without nozzle, in order to measure the pressure of the water exiting, it should be connected after your nozzle…
Great video! If you want to up PSI on a Karcher 1700 what are some options? The regulator or maybe getting a Ryobi nozzle? Would this hurt the pump?
Super helpful just what I needed.
I think you need to put the pressure gauge AFTER the pressure reducer and before the nozzel
I was thinking the same thing - harder to video but the pressure adjustment could simply be placed at the connection between the washer and the hose.
That was a great video Josh, I’m learning a lot about pressure washers, thanks 👍😁
im assuming i could get away with just getting 2.5 and 3.5 right?
btw, great video!
Just so you know. I bought some after market ones and they are labeled near the out hole. inside the cover.
Josh-You're doing a great job with your videos! Keep it up! In agreement with another comment, I was thinking the second number in the nozzle number indicates the GPM. You mentioned it was the orifice size in mm. For example, I was thinking a number 40030 nozzle means a 40 degree pattern and a 3 GPM flow rate. Am I wrong?
No that’s correct, however just using a tip won’t actually get to 3gpm so I relate it by size instead to convey a larger orifice that drops psi and increases gpm. But a 40030 on the ryobi 1600 would only produce about 1.5 gpm not 3
@@imjoshv Maybe a more accurate way to think of it is the 3.0 orifice is CAPABLE of producing a flow of 3 GPM depending on the pressure washer source. Anyway, I would like to say that I have learned quite a bit watching your videos and appreciate what you're doing very much.
@@imjoshv Josh since the Roybi gpm is rated at 1.2 will that trip the breaker and will it harm the life of the presser washer? PLEASE HELP....
I just came across your channel. Thank you for the informational video. I was wondering if you had any videos on removing peeling paint from exterior buildings. Such what pressure, which nozzles etc.? Thank you.
I repaired a pressure washer someone gave me. Once it started running, I tested it, and it now is building pressure as it is supposed, but coming out the nozzle is a very weak stream. Could it just be that it is a cheap/damaged wand or nozzle with an oversized hole?
Another great video!
great vids as always man!
Thanks 🙏
So what’s the “safe” PSI for washing cars? From previous research i was told anything under 2000.
On your video for the Greenworks 2300 psi the 40 had a 1400 psi and the 25 about 1800. Are both still safe?
I thought the 40 was too wide but I was scared about using the 25.
Shouldn’t the gauge be on the other side of the regulator?
I watch your videos a lot like them but have a question
Ryobi 1600 craftsman 1600 or greenworks 1700 do u like better
Hi Josh big fan of your videos. I could use some advice on orifice size for my pressure washer. I have a Dewalt electric Pressure Washer that is rated at 2400 PSI and 1.1 GPM. IDK what the orifice size is on the factory nozzles and do need perfect readings. I was hoping that you could recommend 1 orifice size that would produce PSI amd GPM more conducive with auto detailing than the factory settings. I do not have a Pressure meter to measure that actual readings amd would like to avoid buying multiple bags if different size orifice nozzles. Something close to the rates u prefer would work just fine for my needs. I'd like lower pressure amd higher flow rate to help me flush away soap and contaminants. Is there 1 size orifice that u could recommend that would bring me closer to 1000 -1200 PSI and almost 2 GPM? Is that even possible? If so which size would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any help u may be able to lend
So I just got the Ryobi 2700 psi electric pressure washer for fathers day and watched your video to just have peace of mind while power washing our vehicles and not have to worry as much about ripping paint off them would you recommend going with the 3.0 orifice on this to drop it down to a safe psi or something bigger or smaller?
Great review. Thanks for the tips.
Great vids, just discovered your channel!
I have a ryobi 2900 psi 2.5gpm gas pressure washer I would like to use for the car. What size orifice attachments should I get to reduce the PSI to safely use on the vehicles?
I believe it comes with a 3.0 according to the chart.
Great video bud
What is the name of the song you use for the outro ? Love it. By the way, great test! I like that you also analyzed the amperage in each case
What is the guage your using to monitor the pressure? I’ve been looking for one that has the quick connects, but wasn’t sure if you made that or bought it.
I have an Active 2.0 and I put a gauge between the gun and the hose and it's only reading 550 psi. Supposed to be 1,000. Any tips?
Great info!
Great video! When you use the tips which tip (angle and orifice size) do you use mainly to rinse your car?
most recommend a 40 degree
Actually, I hear the Simpson dial-n-wash regulators seem to work fine with gas pressure washers. I haven't tried one yet.
Hello, is it possible to reduce a 4000 psi pressure washer to 500 psi?
I have a 3300 psi Black Max what nozzle do you remember to get my psi in a safe range?
Will the simpson piece thread in between the machine and the hose? That way you can measure the psi drop at the gun?
Hey Josh!
I’m in need of some help with my pressure washer setup!
Is there somewhere I can send you a video of my issue??
I can’t figure out why my psi is only getting to about 400psi but when I use the turbo nozzle it gets to 1000psi but only with that nozzle.
When I use a 3.0 or 2.5 Orifice it gets to about 400psi😢 . Could the regulator raise my pressure if I’m only getting 400psi out of my ryobi 2000psi pressure washer?
great video
Returned the 30 dollar craftsman "foam cannon". I got my tool daily 3.0 orfice for the craftsman 1900 psi unit and the twinkle star foam cannon. All for 30 bucks.
7:00 to drop the psi, you just need to put on a nozzle with a larger diameter orifice inside the fitting.
That’s correct
How can you tell what size the orifice on your tips are if there not marked?
So since the 3.0 nozel dropped it basically in half from 2k to 1k would that be the case for a higher psi aswell? Like if I have a 3k psi it should drop it to 1500?
Hey Josh, I recently bought Ryobi 40v 1500 psi whisper washer after watching your review. It didn't come with 40 degree nozzle, only 25. Which orifice size nozzles do you recommend (2.0,2.5,3.0)for washing my car for this Ryobi? I'm gonna be using MTM gun with it.
I am using it with the 2.0 and I'm happy with it
Did it make the psi higher but drop the gpm?
I bought a Karcher K1800 with 1.2 gpm but now I have a little buyer remorse, I wish I would have bought the Craftsman.
How about a 3400 psi machine with a 4.5 orifice tip?
So why not use the psi adjuster that you were getting 2300 psi with stock nozzle. Switch it to a 3.0 and see what gpm and psi you are getting compared to not having the psi adjustment attachment.
Do you know whats the best gas pressure washer ?
The best gas pressure washer is the one you can afford
Sir , do i misunderstanding ! As i know orifice # Not the Hole Size 3.0=1.09mm , 3.5=1.22mm
I believe you are right. But I try to simplify of because of how they are marked.
Understood:)@@imjoshv
I wash my car at 4400 psi. Gets it very clean.
Mines 4400 gas???
How funny adjusting the pressure washer 😗fuuiit fuuiit(whistle) at the start of the video after placing the pressure adjustment part👌👍😉😄
Obviously you don't understand how this is working. You put a restriction after the pump and before that restriction you put your pressure gauge. When you close whatever that is it's going to increase the pressure in the line and decrease the pressure after that. Your problem is your gauge location. In order to find out what the PSI is coming out the gauge has to be "after" The restriction thing that you bought.
Psi is overrated dealing with cars. As you know most those electric PW’s are using a smaller orifice in turn drastically lowering what matters GPM.
Chatty freakn Kathy... Get o the f n point...
Wouldn’t you want to measure PSI AFTER the reducer? Of course it would increase before because you are holding the pressure back. SMH
82nd!
1st
HOW not to make VIDEOS
Hey man great videos, I have a question I have Simpson 3000 psi powered gas pressure washer what tip will be good to apply the right psi pressure to the cars?
1st