For those who want to do this at home: - while sanding don't go only with one direction of sanding, always go north south then west east or you will end up with deep long scratches - after each pass with your polisher clean your pad or it will be clogged with compound after couple of passes and won't be as effective - remember smaller polishing pads are more aggressive than biger ones and it's easier to polish and also burn through the paint - after each step of polishing wipe all the compound with IPA or some specific product because it's filling scratches so you don't see them but they are still there - work with good lighting because you will miss a lot of scratches which will show in direct sunlight, use strong flashlight and check with many directions of light - while sanding don't skip a lot of grit in sanding paper between each pass don't go with 1500 > 3000, otherwise you will have a lot more job to do with polishing. Better go for example 2000 > 2500 > 3000 - while sanding always use some sort of sponge or something as a sanding block otherwise you may leave deeper scratches in some places than in another using only paper with your hand - while using clay bar remember to keep your surface wet and don't forget to fold your claybar to keep dirt inside. Best method to know if surface has enough take a foil bag on your hand and touch surface it should be smooth
@@PyrosBrawler196 it's scary that I'm not a detailer and still know more about this than guy who makes video about it... Many people may damage their paint because it looks easy on the vid. He actually doesn't show the result, what's the point looking at the paint with small amount of light and with all scratches filled with wax and compound...
This is beautiful!! I'm definitely going to try this out. I have an old 1990 Mk3 Supra so I'm not too worried about testing this on a $500 paint job, rather than get a nice paint job for a couple thousand. $500 is easy to get repainted and try again if something happens. The real question here is; is it cheaper to attempt painting the car yourself and then going back to polishing it up using this system? ($500 is pretty cheap and saves a lot of time and clean up lol)
@@ElioRose I have never painted a car or just some piece but I would like to try and learn something (unfortunately I don't have a car needing painting and even more basic reason, I don't have a compressor). So you should estimate the cost of painting car by yourself, doing it for the first time I can assume it won't be perfect but after bad painting there is a lot of things you can do with sanding and polishing. During you first try you will want to perform as good as possible while painting company is looking for profit. If you manage buy your supplies for less than 500$ you can try it but keep in mind not every flaw of painting is repairable with polishing. So you have to answer yourself what are you capable of? Are you able to paint car? Are you able to polish the car? Or maybe the last are you able to live with decent paintjob which cost you 500$?
@@kubaka4431 also he doesn't mention clear coat. This could be a 3 layer clear coat but if someone tries this on a single stage or even a base clear, it could do some real damage. It is a good idea for a video, but only if it is executed properly.
As a painter i wouldn't recommend sealing paint with a ceramic coat until it has cured for at least 60 to 90 days. Not that I know how long ago this car was painted. I'm just letting the less experienced guys know that fresh paint even though dry too the touch is still chemically cross linking. And if you seal it down it can solvent pop.
Kyle K yes wax or anything that creates a layer on top of the paint, I’m a painter and tell everyone not to use anything for atleast 6 months. I personally don’t believe in wax or anything similar because paint breathes and is constantly shrinking and expanding and I just don’t like trapping that in
Quick tip... never lay the buffer with pad on floor.. you may pick up dust or larger objects on the pad causing scratches on an already smooth surface 👊🏼
I watched this months ago and got pretty ambitious thinking "I can do this!" Hubby said ok Baby You go for it! AND I DID!!! 2016 Custom Chevy Malibu Convertible Orange Metallic Black Diamond 3-step paint with white leather interior and was looking pretty ratty from the Florida sun. Watched this video OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER...Hubby had a piano refinishing business for years so We had all the grinders/buffers. Took Me three and a half weeks of being out in the garage every night (work fulltime). CAME OUT PHENOMINAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS GUY HERE KNOWS HIS STUFF AND TAUGHT ME SOOOOOO WELL!!!! Hubby showed Me so many of the techniques of how to touch the pads to the paint and things like that. Read so many of the shared comments for more hints on what to do and how to do it. Big reveal a week ago. Cried when I showed Hubby the finished job. He was so proud of Me and so willing to help but I wouldn't let Him. He did do so much in showing Me like Ricky does on this video. We went out yesterday and He bought Me NEW RIMS WORTHY OF MY SLICKED-DOWN PIMPED-OUT LADY RIDE!!! Have had so many people ask who painted My car - LOVE IT!!! Just goes to show You that You can do ANYTHING You put Your Mind to. THANK YOU RICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU ARE THE BEST TEACHER!!!!!!! You're so patient and really teach the small details. Love how You say..."a little later!!!" WE BOTH THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Going for a drive.....THANK YOU RICKY AND THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR HELPING ME!!!!!!!!!
I used to own a detailing shop. I’ve had a customer wanting to show me how I work, so I offered him to wet sand his 9 year old Maxima.... dull faded Blue. 3 days later and you couldn’t tell that that Maxima was that old. Long story short, the gentleman was so happy that he brought his 38’ Buick.... it had a piano Black paint and we brought that beauty to shine..... nothing is better than a 3 step wet sand and a decent polish!
my best friend has an auto body/ collision business with 35 years experience...and he shows me how to do the body work, prep, paint and detailing...the good body shops deserve every penny they charge cause that work is tough AF!
@Stev Rex knowledge cost money and labor cost money....their profit margin can be as big as they want it to be and u can shop around as much as u want....i belive in you get what u pay for
@@lb-innovations Nope. Painting a car for 10k is ridiculous. Outrageous profits. Average people need decent quality affordable paint jobs at a reasonable price. You can't spend 8 thousand dollars to paint a 5 thousand dollar car.
Use a soft block with 1500 grit sheets, wet sand. Come back with 2000 grit and 3000 grit using a 6 inch dual action sander. For darker cars, finish sanding with 5000 grit. Use 3M step 1 36060 with white foam pad. Then step 2 with black foam pad and step 3 with blue foam pad; wipe excess off with yellow microfiber rag. You shouldn't use wax on new paint jobs because the wax could react with the paint/clear coat and cause problems, especially with solvent-based products. I'm just an ASE/I-Car Certified Collision and Refinish Technician. ASE Certified Collision Estimator. 18 years in the industry. I like watching these videos, especially DIY and how other people approach the same task, like Automotive Detailers.
I prepped my '81 Imperial, sent it out to Maaco and had them shoot it in base coat, clear coat. Brought the car home and waited for a couple of days. Did the same thing as was shown here. Took almost 3 days but when it was done I had a glass finish on it. Maaco is not a bad deal if you prep the car right and then finish up with colour sanding and some buffing.
@@losoj30 large debris in fresh paint? How is something even less abrasive gonna resolve that and once more not also scratch the surface since said debris is now stuck in clay instead of falling away??
Been taking my FRS to maaco for years and have been getting the $500 single stage everytime since I know I always change the color once or twice a year. 😂 It’s pretty good budget wise for a quick color change but as you stated there are the flaws. From my experience I highly recommend masking stuff of yourself that you forsure don’t want overspray on. I made the mistake and learned my lesson the first few times and as a result got some overspray on trim pieces and under the car. I love maaco though and it got me super hyped finding out I can change the color of my car for around $500 lol. If you’re on a budget it’s worth it! (just remember mask it yourself)
Good video and subject matter. My local maaco did a really good job on mine and the silver paint held up for many years. You can make the maaco paint job look even better if you take off as much trim/moulding/mirrors as possible and do the final sanding/bodywork yourself
The finish was much better from before/after - 2 things though, as some others have commented blow out your pads (using a compressor) into a bucket of water. Without this step you are slowly increasing the abrasive (with the paint particles stuck in the pad) and you should also prime your pads - use the same dot pattern then massage the product into the pad. This reduces splatter and makes for a more even coverage - it also stops any non lubricated part of the pad contacting the paint before the product is spread by it (thus increasing heat). Good job overall though!
I went to college with a guy that worked at Maaco back in the 70's. He said the only difference between the $199 (now $499) paint job and the Presidential paint job was the price! 30yrs ago I bought a Jeep that was freshly painted (from Maaco). A few years later the paint started peeling. I discovered the new paint job was painted over the old paint, clear coat and all! They didn't even scratch the surface before spraying over the old paint. That's probably the difference right there!
learned from my first Earl Schibe special that they don't prep the car - they don't even mask it. So when I was trying to decide what color to paint the next one, I had a body shop guy do the prep and masking (for a few hundred bucks) then Maaco shoot the paint. It was fantastic! They have good paint. The cost is in the prep.
They wipe it down with liquid prep, like a deglosser, Liquid Sand, etc. Rarely will quick turn shops like Maaco or (formerly) Earl Scheib do any legit sanding. That is the biggest reason for the notorious “Paint Peel”. Never use a high pressure washer on Maaco-type jobs. If there is Any chip, the water pressure gets underneath, and peels paint right off. Hence, the No-Sanding quick turn shops. The other observation: I cringe at the idea of multiple cut & polish stages on quick turn paint jobs. They shoot JUST enough material to cover ... which leaves VERY Little margin for sanding. Whether single stage or two stage, they use the BARE MINIMUM for coverage. Ymmv
BTW, he just showed you the way to take out paint swirls, from a previous hacked detail job. Though you won't have wet sand. Just a good cutting compound, and cutting foam pad. Then, onto a medium less abrasive cutter polisher, and softer pad, and finally a quick wax by hand. There are several, so find one that produces the least amount of dust, when wiping off with the microfiber towel. P&S is probably my favorite, and I've used them all. It's pink in color, great stuff! Excellent tutorial throtl! I'm subbed! Brings me back to my old days as a professional detailer!
Great job. I've seen many single stage paint jobs and you never know how much clear Maaco uses. I have always followed up their paint jobs with a flex 3401 with an orange pad /aio / fusso coat and it looks 10x better
You can definitely see the difference between using single stage metallic paints versus using clear coated metallic paint. This shine is about 20% less gloss in comparison.
Dude, this is an excellent video, I've become a subscriber because of it. One question though, why the hoops just to make a comment? All in all, one if the best paint correction videos I've seem. Thanks
Since I mainly do this on motorcycles I've just come accustomed to sanding and buffing by hand. One less tool to use, and I never ever burn through, my buffer just sits in the box lol. I think I can do a small car that size completely by hand, might take longer than a day, but post corona, I have plenty of time now. The wet sanding is what takes forever.
Specific more to the rotary buffer, you aren't looking to incorporate heat, but letting the compound/polishing media do the work. Buffing until hot will not only increase the chance of burn, but also create swirl marks.
The exposed flakes will have tarnished dull unless the ceramic magic potion actually adhered to and protected them. Great idea for non-metallic solid colors though.
Great job. 👍 As a painter I don't usually wet sand and polish cars I don't paint. I would advise everyone who wanted to cut and polish a car, to test a small area first to check how much clear is on the vehicle. I have cut through paint with 2500 grit wet sanding by hand. Clear can be extremely thin, so be careful not to cut through!
Awesome tutorial Ricky! I've always thought that MAACO paint jobs could get the basic done and with some good extra work like this, could get great results!
From what I learned as a detailer a rotary doesn't necessary spin faster it's actually only spinning whereas the DA polisher is a random orbital polisher which doesn't necessarily mean that it's spinning also from what I've learned heat doesn't necessarily mean that you're cutting as well, there should be less heat when cutting I don't want to be one of those guys but it is very important to know what the difference is between the two polishers when getting into detailing
I am a Meguiar's authorized dealer and I have to point out that Meguiar's does NOT recommend and advises AGAINST using the Ultimate Compound with a rotary polisher!!!
Rob Fassi no. Go read the product info. Honestly, many detailers, be it professional or DIYers, will disagree it’s how Ricky is compounding and polishing this wet sand job.
There's several products not recommended for rotary. Sonax. You name a brand... Anyone that makes mirrors out of paint loosely follow guidelines in my opinion Example... 996 GT3 black paint is a nightmare to fix up to perfect gloss. I load up a polishing pad with 205.... then blow it ALL out. Use water as my "polish" with ONE dab a panel. I'll usually replace my pad with a fresh one loaded with just the oils on every panel. Sure there's other ways to get that paint perfect but I was battling it one day and that's what I had. Now I tend to get a few of those tricky Porsches in a year because of that client.
A good way to check your paint for overspray prior to using a clay bar. Take the wrapper off a pack of smokes and put your fingers inside and rub your paint. You will feel everything. You must wax after using a clay bar. It removes everything.
Getting the original surface, to the point of almost to absolute shining before clear coat and paint is applied minimizes the amount of work it takes to get the final finish sanded and buffed out. Do not be afraid to toss the power tools to the side and do it all by hand as well. The finish can and should be a crisp, high gloss, this car in the video is almost there, yet knowing he's dealing with a budget paint job, he can't take it further unless he had a special request for additional coats.
Larry’s a professional detailer plus I think he has ocd when it comes to this stuff. Lol he try to take the safest route to the best results. When you see him clean carpets and seats he hardly use the drill gun method because he doesn’t want to damage it
That turned out amazing! Nice job Ricky! Always good to take rings off if you are hand sanding without an interface pad.. ask me how I learned that 😅 I love the work and I love watching. Thanks for the videos!
Also when buffing, waxing, or even wet sanding large areas, you want to make a cross hatch pattern. So left and right across area then up and down...repeat.
Lol. Its everything related to cars. Painters complain to bodymen how hard painting is. Lol. I used to paint in my garage in my house. Btw. Ive never seen a painter on a frame machine helping me repair frame damage
Old school UK sprayer here, I used a bucket of water with a little detergent in it. a sponge and 1500 W or D flat the whole area of orange peel. Them using a buffing machine and some G4 Fareckla then G6 this will bring that up to a brilliant shine. I get a glass like finish this way.
It's crazy that back in the lacquer paint days it was easy to get a smooth glass look from a paint job with no orange peeling look as long as it prep work was ok. But nowadays with factory paint jobs coming from robots the paint on nearly every Factory car you see the orange peel look it's like the new standard. Unless it's a high in vehicle . because manufacturers will change the paint in the middle of production if they can save a few pennies per gallon.
for $500 they don't repair dings, dents, any form of body damage. Nothing gets removed like mirrors, grills, lights. Everything gets taped off and they throw $50 worth of single stage paint at it, so you will have tape lines, overspray, paint flaking off due to bad adhesion and bad prep work. No Color sanding and buffing will turn a a $500 Maaco paint job into a $3000. I'm currently painting my 35y old Truck and I'm helping my bodymen/painter do a lot of the work to save money, we are 17 days into it and still have another 5-6 days to go. A $500 paint job Will always be a 20 Footer. Unless you lower your standards very very low. Some Cars only deserve a $500 paint job, which is OK but please don't try to fool people into thinking they can get the same OEM quality results by doing a little cutting and buffing.
@@dub806 Because it is the worst paint you can buy. The shine will not last and will require constant buffing to keep shiny. Two stage metallic paint is the only way to go. Even after this cut and buff you can see that the paint is dulling out. Detailing a cheap single stage paint will make it duller and fail faster. These paint jobs are for cars the owners don't care about. Anyone that knows a good paint job can tell this is still a MAACO budget job because it has no depth. You get depth from a two stage process with a good amount of clear. This whole video was nothing more than click-bait.
Always go base clear for metallics. It makes no sense to go single stage. How do you drop coat without messing up the clear? Then you color sand the single stage so it gets sun burnt even quicker. Be better to sand and clear coat the vehicle.
Looks good Ricky! I just clay barred and waxed the family car-2014 3.6R Outback last weekend and my 2018 WRX needs this exact treatment. Clay bar, wet sand, compound, polish and wax for the win!
@@biplopqusquddin2278 It's cheap BECAUSE it's nasty brother...it's a basic bare bones paintjob. They've been known to paint wheels, mufflers, whatever's in the way and not masked off because they've got so many cars to paint and it's all about getting whatever job done quickly so they're not spending much in labor. They do a decent job for a cheap paintjob, but they don't do much prep (unless you pay them to), and they absolutely will not color sand and buff the car. It's just like Earl Scheib, a BARE BONES paint job (depending on how much you pay).
@@biplopqusquddin2278 I had a car painted back in the day when I was in high school before a knew better by Maaco. The paint job was complete trash. It's not a two stage process so they basically mix the base and clear somehow. They painted over all the plastic trim on the car as well as my fog lights... After a month or so the paint was already falling off my front bumper. The worst. The fact that he trusted Maaco with his RX7 is completely beyond me.
There are a few nice details here that I've never seen another cut and buff video show/say (specifically the tape/don't sand what you can't polish with the machine you want to use...) but there is one problem. I don't know how much this shows in person, but you got really lucky that single-stage metallic turned out not looking horrible. As it is, when you pan over in the video you can see what look like reflections of light and dark clouds, from farther back it looks like you have areas that aren't polished as well but when you get closer you see that they are shiny and show a good reflection. What is going on is that you cut into the mica flakes that make the metallic part of the paint, and in different areas, you cut a little more or a little less making the paint appear more or less metallic ( as you cut deeper you expose more of the flakes and cut away more of the color making it look more metallic, the more metallic areas look lighter on a dark paint) in different areas. Any time you "cut" into a metallic paint you cut into the metal flake and make it look more metallic/lighter colored and splotchy. You can cut and buff single-stage, solid, non-metallic colors fine, but to do metallic you need to have 2 stages (a clear coat topcoat). With 2 stage paint you'll be cutting the orange peel out of the clear and not affecting the color/metallic underneath (even then the super picky will point out that thicker coats of clear make the color look darker/different so they will want to try to keep things as even as possible)
Thank You for posting this video, I have watched quite a few and yours is really the best. You took all the time needed to show in detail, all the products needed and how to properly use them. You bet I subscribed
I've wet sanded and buffed hundreds of completes, use 3m compound and a wool pad at first then go back over with a softer foam pad, then polish with a foam pad. Also graduate to a DA palm sander with hook it pads. Don't be afraid to do a whole panel at once
If you do a fender I go left to all the way right so that I don’t create breaks in the flow of the paint. Half fender will eventually have two tones. Maybe not, but going in longer strokes will definitely keep it from being mix matched patchy work.
microfiber cutting pad or hybrid blue pad with griots fast correcting cream would make the polishing easier and less cutting work compared to the red foam. always blow out or wipe the pads after each panel for efficiency. u can jewel after polishing with menzerna sf4000 to give that glass glow!
little advice, as I've been taught would be better if you sand in circles not straight, in this case you risk tu make marks , keep your finger togheter as would be flat pad, again for avoid marks, go straight only near the edges so you can avoid to go on them
Macco just quoted me $1,900 to put their low level paint job on my 1997 extended cab truck/6' bed. I guess they all of the sudden got a bit to proud of their paint jobs to charge that! Just crazy how much their prices have gone up. F it! Im gonna paint it myself. I worked at a body shop in my teen years and certainly couldn't do a worse job than Macco! LOL! BTW, you're car looks beautiful! Great video!
12:20 you want to air blow or vacuum the pad because its holding contaminants. You do that every time you apply more compound. It looks like I see old contaminants burned into the paint.
I did the same thing with my car. I had my coworker do a backyard respray on my 1994 Audi S4 with PPG Omni Base Plus + Shopline JC630 clear. It had a lot of orange peel and a few dirt nibs. Then I had my friend wet sand and buff the whole car, it came out fantastic. All in I had about $1300 in a complete color change and wet sand.
For those who want to do this at home:
- while sanding don't go only with one direction of sanding, always go north south then west east or you will end up with deep long scratches
- after each pass with your polisher clean your pad or it will be clogged with compound after couple of passes and won't be as effective
- remember smaller polishing pads are more aggressive than biger ones and it's easier to polish and also burn through the paint
- after each step of polishing wipe all the compound with IPA or some specific product because it's filling scratches so you don't see them but they are still there
- work with good lighting because you will miss a lot of scratches which will show in direct sunlight, use strong flashlight and check with many directions of light
- while sanding don't skip a lot of grit in sanding paper between each pass don't go with 1500 > 3000, otherwise you will have a lot more job to do with polishing. Better go for example 2000 > 2500 > 3000
- while sanding always use some sort of sponge or something as a sanding block otherwise you may leave deeper scratches in some places than in another using only paper with your hand
- while using clay bar remember to keep your surface wet and don't forget to fold your claybar to keep dirt inside. Best method to know if surface has enough take a foil bag on your hand and touch surface it should be smooth
as a detailer these tips are all true and tested to work and can be approved by me :) thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@@PyrosBrawler196 it's scary that I'm not a detailer and still know more about this than guy who makes video about it... Many people may damage their paint because it looks easy on the vid. He actually doesn't show the result, what's the point looking at the paint with small amount of light and with all scratches filled with wax and compound...
This is beautiful!! I'm definitely going to try this out.
I have an old 1990 Mk3 Supra so I'm not too worried about testing this on a $500 paint job, rather than get a nice paint job for a couple thousand. $500 is easy to get repainted and try again if something happens.
The real question here is; is it cheaper to attempt painting the car yourself and then going back to polishing it up using this system? ($500 is pretty cheap and saves a lot of time and clean up lol)
@@ElioRose I have never painted a car or just some piece but I would like to try and learn something (unfortunately I don't have a car needing painting and even more basic reason, I don't have a compressor). So you should estimate the cost of painting car by yourself, doing it for the first time I can assume it won't be perfect but after bad painting there is a lot of things you can do with sanding and polishing. During you first try you will want to perform as good as possible while painting company is looking for profit. If you manage buy your supplies for less than 500$ you can try it but keep in mind not every flaw of painting is repairable with polishing. So you have to answer yourself what are you capable of? Are you able to paint car? Are you able to polish the car? Or maybe the last are you able to live with decent paintjob which cost you 500$?
@@kubaka4431 also he doesn't mention clear coat. This could be a 3 layer clear coat but if someone tries this on a single stage or even a base clear, it could do some real damage. It is a good idea for a video, but only if it is executed properly.
As a painter i wouldn't recommend sealing paint with a ceramic coat until it has cured for at least 60 to 90 days. Not that I know how long ago this car was painted. I'm just letting the less experienced guys know that fresh paint even though dry too the touch is still chemically cross linking. And if you seal it down it can solvent pop.
Thank you... good advice right there...👈
That stuff he used isn’t ceramicoat or sealer.. just a “hybrid” which is basically just wax with fancy wording. It’s a gimmick.
@@Beltz101 I had my truck painted last year and painter told me the same thing....he even advised me against using any car soaps with waxes in it
Kyle K yes wax or anything that creates a layer on top of the paint, I’m a painter and tell everyone not to use anything for atleast 6 months. I personally don’t believe in wax or anything similar because paint breathes and is constantly shrinking and expanding and I just don’t like trapping that in
Brad Decker can confirm. Solvent pop caused me to have to do an entire re-spray on my 68 I just painted.
Quick tip... never lay the buffer with pad on floor.. you may pick up dust or larger objects on the pad causing scratches on an already smooth surface 👊🏼
Never lay your pad on a dirty floor, but you can lay it down anywhere you'd like.
I watched this months ago and got pretty ambitious thinking "I can do this!" Hubby said ok Baby You go for it! AND I DID!!! 2016 Custom Chevy Malibu Convertible Orange Metallic Black Diamond 3-step paint with white leather interior and was looking pretty ratty from the Florida sun. Watched this video OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER...Hubby had a piano refinishing business for years so We had all the grinders/buffers. Took Me three and a half weeks of being out in the garage every night (work fulltime). CAME OUT PHENOMINAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS GUY HERE KNOWS HIS STUFF AND TAUGHT ME SOOOOOO WELL!!!! Hubby showed Me so many of the techniques of how to touch the pads to the paint and things like that. Read so many of the shared comments for more hints on what to do and how to do it. Big reveal a week ago. Cried when I showed Hubby the finished job. He was so proud of Me and so willing to help but I wouldn't let Him. He did do so much in showing Me like Ricky does on this video. We went out yesterday and He bought Me NEW RIMS WORTHY OF MY SLICKED-DOWN PIMPED-OUT LADY RIDE!!! Have had so many people ask who painted My car - LOVE IT!!! Just goes to show You that You can do ANYTHING You put Your Mind to. THANK YOU RICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU ARE THE BEST TEACHER!!!!!!! You're so patient and really teach the small details. Love how You say..."a little later!!!" WE BOTH THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Going for a drive.....THANK YOU RICKY AND THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR HELPING ME!!!!!!!!!
Pictures?
I used to own a detailing shop. I’ve had a customer wanting to show me how I work, so I offered him to wet sand his 9 year old Maxima.... dull faded Blue. 3 days later and you couldn’t tell that that Maxima was that old. Long story short, the gentleman was so happy that he brought his 38’ Buick.... it had a piano Black paint and we brought that beauty to shine..... nothing is better than a 3 step wet sand and a decent polish!
Nothing better than the money they better pay you for the work too.
Plasti dip is pretty dope too
Buff my car please. Anaheim, CA
It is the best but most wont pay to have it done, they don’t realize it’s costly to do right.
matthew anderson stop 😒😂
12:22 If you want to take the extra step, blow out the pads (in to a wet trashcan to trap the dust) to get rid of the contaminants in between passes
Man he killed me when he left the pad on the ground with 15:20, adding compound with out blowing the pad !
@@maithemalsaigh2636 i mean, if you want more cutting action. 🤣
👍👍
my best friend has an auto body/ collision business with 35 years experience...and he shows me how to do the body work, prep, paint and detailing...the good body shops deserve every penny they charge cause that work is tough AF!
Yeah that's like saying my hour will cost you 65 bucks or you can do it yourself for free for just your free time that will equal money
@Stev Rex knowledge cost money and labor cost money....their profit margin can be as big as they want it to be and u can shop around as much as u want....i belive in you get what u pay for
@Stev Rex I have no idea why you are talking out your ass, but quality work costs money. You get what you pay for.
@@lb-innovations
Nope.
Painting a car for 10k is ridiculous.
Outrageous profits.
Average people need decent quality affordable paint jobs at a reasonable price.
You can't spend 8 thousand dollars to paint a 5 thousand dollar car.
@@teresa67factoid95 then go to Macco for a shitty quality job.
Use a soft block with 1500 grit sheets, wet sand. Come back with 2000 grit and 3000 grit using a 6 inch dual action sander. For darker cars, finish sanding with 5000 grit. Use 3M step 1 36060 with white foam pad. Then step 2 with black foam pad and step 3 with blue foam pad; wipe excess off with yellow microfiber rag. You shouldn't use wax on new paint jobs because the wax could react with the paint/clear coat and cause problems, especially with solvent-based products. I'm just an ASE/I-Car Certified Collision and Refinish Technician. ASE Certified Collision Estimator. 18 years in the industry.
I like watching these videos, especially DIY and how other people approach the same task, like Automotive Detailers.
I prepped my '81 Imperial, sent it out to Maaco and had them shoot it in base coat, clear coat. Brought the car home and waited for a couple of days. Did the same thing as was shown here. Took almost 3 days but when it was done I had a glass finish on it. Maaco is not a bad deal if you prep the car right and then finish up with colour sanding and some buffing.
So true
after fixing your body did you sand the whole car down for them ? or did they end up doing that part ?
@@josuemartinezmtz I did all the sanding. All they did was lay the paint.
When clay-baring a vehicle, you can place a shopping bag over your fingers and feel the paint surface much better.
Not sure what purpose clay barring even served on fresh paint followed by aggressive sanding though
@@donaldsullivan6979 large debris in the paint can scratch more then the 1200 he started with that's why.
I wear latex gloves when working on my customers cars a lot easier and u can use them for many things.
@@losoj30 large debris in fresh paint? How is something even less abrasive gonna resolve that and once more not also scratch the surface since said debris is now stuck in clay instead of falling away??
I once read (not tried yet) - about using plumber's putty instead of the more costly clay bar.
Really amazing job. Never knew that even a cheap paint job has hidden life in it.Very satisfying work.
Been taking my FRS to maaco for years and have been getting the $500 single stage everytime since I know I always change the color once or twice a year. 😂 It’s pretty good budget wise for a quick color change but as you stated there are the flaws. From my experience I highly recommend masking stuff of yourself that you forsure don’t want overspray on. I made the mistake and learned my lesson the first few times and as a result got some overspray on trim pieces and under the car. I love maaco though and it got me super hyped finding out I can change the color of my car for around $500 lol. If you’re on a budget it’s worth it! (just remember mask it yourself)
Oof
what parts do you have to tape off? considering this for my is300
wow, what a terrible idea.
You know there is plastidip?
Your widebody kit is made of dry paint.
Pedro Teixeira underrated comment 😂
Good video and subject matter. My local maaco did a really good job on mine and the silver paint held up for many years. You can make the maaco paint job look even better if you take off as much trim/moulding/mirrors as possible and do the final sanding/bodywork yourself
My boy Rickie always giving us that good how to do content 💪🏽
Wow.. just wow huge difference that looks amazing ..
The finish was much better from before/after - 2 things though, as some others have commented blow out your pads (using a compressor) into a bucket of water. Without this step you are slowly increasing the abrasive (with the paint particles stuck in the pad) and you should also prime your pads - use the same dot pattern then massage the product into the pad. This reduces splatter and makes for a more even coverage - it also stops any non lubricated part of the pad contacting the paint before the product is spread by it (thus increasing heat). Good job overall though!
I went to college with a guy that worked at Maaco back in the 70's. He said the only difference between the $199 (now $499) paint job and the Presidential paint job was the price! 30yrs ago I bought a Jeep that was freshly painted (from Maaco). A few years later the paint started peeling. I discovered the new paint job was painted over the old paint, clear coat and all! They didn't even scratch the surface before spraying over the old paint. That's probably the difference right there!
thats crazy lol right over the clear no sanding lmao wtf bro... thanks for sharing that hahaa
learned from my first Earl Schibe special that they don't prep the car - they don't even mask it.
So when I was trying to decide what color to paint the next one, I had a body shop guy do the prep and masking (for a few hundred bucks) then Maaco shoot the paint. It was fantastic! They have good paint. The cost is in the prep.
They wipe it down with liquid prep, like a deglosser, Liquid Sand, etc. Rarely will quick turn shops like Maaco or (formerly) Earl Scheib do any legit sanding. That is the biggest reason for the notorious “Paint Peel”. Never use a high pressure washer on Maaco-type jobs. If there is Any chip, the water pressure gets underneath, and peels paint right off. Hence, the No-Sanding quick turn shops.
The other observation: I cringe at the idea of multiple cut & polish stages on quick turn paint jobs. They shoot JUST enough material to cover ... which leaves VERY Little margin for sanding. Whether single stage or two stage, they use the BARE MINIMUM for coverage.
Ymmv
@@aldo9564 This and the fact they use the cheapest of cheap paint.
Very impressive. Not only did you do a great job, you also know how to thoroughly explain, in a simple manner, how it is done. Thanks, FD
Reallllly good how to - loving it, this type of thing gives me confidence to do my front bar 👌
BTW, he just showed you the way to take out paint swirls, from a previous hacked detail job. Though you won't have wet sand. Just a good cutting compound, and cutting foam pad. Then, onto a medium less abrasive cutter polisher, and softer pad, and finally a quick wax by hand. There are several, so find one that produces the least amount of dust, when wiping off with the microfiber towel. P&S is probably my favorite, and I've used them all. It's pink in color, great stuff! Excellent tutorial throtl! I'm subbed! Brings me back to my old days as a professional detailer!
Gotta love that Rickie spec!
Great job. I've seen many single stage paint jobs and you never know how much clear Maaco uses. I have always followed up their paint jobs with a flex 3401 with an orange pad /aio / fusso coat and it looks 10x better
Well done Ricky! This turned out amazingly!
I’m a detailing freak - would’ve gone nuts with orange peel. In any case, would adopt same approach. RickieSpec forever man
I like the orange peel at times🙈 I see it a lot on BMWs especially N54
Great vid! Valuable tips about taping and avoiding the edges, and being careful not to burn the paint with the rotary tool. Good job broski!
Missed you Ricky, great job, the RX-7 turned out amazing. Huge fan of RX-7.
Oh, its an RX7 is it, that's why it looks so nice!
Great tutorial Rickie, you're a good teacher. Great skills, much respect.
YES FANTASTIC JOB, RICKY
You can definitely see the difference between using single stage metallic paints versus using clear coated metallic paint. This shine is about 20% less gloss in comparison.
Dude, this is an excellent video, I've become a subscriber because of it. One question though, why the hoops just to make a comment? All in all, one if the best paint correction videos I've seem. Thanks
Since I mainly do this on motorcycles I've just come accustomed to sanding and buffing by hand. One less tool to use, and I never ever burn through, my buffer just sits in the box lol. I think I can do a small car that size completely by hand, might take longer than a day, but post corona, I have plenty of time now. The wet sanding is what takes forever.
The Skittles FD is lit up light a mirror 👌👌👌👌
Specific more to the rotary buffer, you aren't looking to incorporate heat, but letting the compound/polishing media do the work. Buffing until hot will not only increase the chance of burn, but also create swirl marks.
I like those metallic flakes, can we see how the car looks now several months later?
The exposed flakes will have tarnished dull unless the ceramic magic potion actually adhered to and protected them.
Great idea for non-metallic solid colors though.
Real good instructions, makes me less worried about cheaper paintjobs that you can buff it out and make it look that good. Much love.
MAACO:
" Wait, that's illegal"
Great job. 👍
As a painter I don't usually wet sand and polish cars I don't paint. I would advise everyone who wanted to cut and polish a car, to test a small area first to check how much clear is on the vehicle. I have cut through paint with 2500 grit wet sanding by hand. Clear can be extremely thin, so be careful not to cut through!
Awesome tutorial Ricky! I've always thought that MAACO paint jobs could get the basic done and with some good extra work like this, could get great results!
From what I learned as a detailer a rotary doesn't necessary spin faster it's actually only spinning whereas the DA polisher is a random orbital polisher which doesn't necessarily mean that it's spinning also from what I've learned heat doesn't necessarily mean that you're cutting as well, there should be less heat when cutting I don't want to be one of those guys but it is very important to know what the difference is between the two polishers when getting into detailing
Needed on 3K dollar paint jobs where I'm at.
The reason why $300 in materials is a $3000 job. Lots of arm, back and leg breaking prep work. Prep 50% paint 10% 40% wets sanding and buffing.
Average material cost for an all over with a mid level 2k base/clear is going to be more like 700 to 1200 in material.
The towels Very cheap at Costco they sell them in a big bag worth saving where possible.
Best paint correction tutorial I've ever seen. Thank you!
You have there best garage setup , really dope 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
ABSOLUTE BEST PAINT/BODY CHANNEL ON TH-cam! BEST OF LUCK/SUCCESS TO YOU!
I am a Meguiar's authorized dealer and I have to point out that Meguiar's does NOT recommend and advises AGAINST using the Ultimate Compound with a rotary polisher!!!
castamir that’s a lie
Rob Fassi no. Go read the product info. Honestly, many detailers, be it professional or DIYers, will disagree it’s how Ricky is compounding and polishing this wet sand job.
There's several products not recommended for rotary. Sonax. You name a brand... Anyone that makes mirrors out of paint loosely follow guidelines in my opinion
Example... 996 GT3 black paint is a nightmare to fix up to perfect gloss. I load up a polishing pad with 205.... then blow it ALL out. Use water as my "polish" with ONE dab a panel. I'll usually replace my pad with a fresh one loaded with just the oils on every panel. Sure there's other ways to get that paint perfect but I was battling it one day and that's what I had. Now I tend to get a few of those tricky Porsches in a year because of that client.
A good way to check your paint for overspray prior to using a clay bar. Take the wrapper off a pack of smokes and put your fingers inside and rub your paint. You will feel everything. You must wax after using a clay bar. It removes everything.
Saw Rickie's wedding ring... I'm like... that looks too familiar.... I look at my hand just to realize I have the same ring. lol
Way to say he's your husband
Eraun Petry a dream come true.
Getting the original surface, to the point of almost to absolute shining before clear coat and paint is applied minimizes the amount of work it takes to get the final finish sanded and buffed out. Do not be afraid to toss the power tools to the side and do it all by hand as well. The finish can and should be a crisp, high gloss, this car in the video is almost there, yet knowing he's dealing with a budget paint job, he can't take it further unless he had a special request for additional coats.
First and also AMAZING! Hope your each 10 Million subs soon! Keep it up bro🥰❤️👌👍✌️
Good show. Informative and to the point without a long boring story before getting to the details!
Last time I saw in an Ammo video they blow out the residu on the cutting pad with an airgun so it doesn't end up in the paint.
Larry’s a professional detailer plus I think he has ocd when it comes to this stuff. Lol he try to take the safest route to the best results. When you see him clean carpets and seats he hardly use the drill gun method because he doesn’t want to damage it
That turned out amazing! Nice job Ricky! Always good to take rings off if you are hand sanding without an interface pad.. ask me how I learned that 😅 I love the work and I love watching. Thanks for the videos!
Nice job. I just can't see spending that much time.... wow! I thought it was fine from MAACO. :)
It came out great but that's a lot of labor. I would rather pay the $3000 and get a nice paint job.
@@suncookrocks if you can get one for that cheap. Usually, a good one is 5 to 10k these days.
@@bigdaddygamestudio5007 Facts
Great job and what appears to be a very nice person.
Thumbs up !!!
Loved the work Rickie as always, Curious if you did any prep work before sending it in to Maaco? Sanding, masking, taking parts off etc?
Nope .. not at all
Didnt know maaco still did 500 dollar paint jobs
You’re the man Ricky
Also when buffing, waxing, or even wet sanding large areas, you want to make a cross hatch pattern. So left and right across area then up and down...repeat.
🔥🔥🔥 love the video 🔥🔥🔥
Another good tip if you have low spots get some clear coat and a small dab brush and spot it in and use a heat lamp and fill it in then sand and buff!
detailing is tough, thats why its sooo expensive.
Lol. Its everything related to cars. Painters complain to bodymen how hard painting is. Lol. I used to paint in my garage in my house. Btw. Ive never seen a painter on a frame machine helping me repair frame damage
Old school UK sprayer here, I used a bucket of water with a little detergent in it. a sponge and 1500 W or D flat the whole area of orange peel. Them using a buffing machine and some G4 Fareckla then G6 this will bring that up to a brilliant shine.
I get a glass like finish this way.
Thanks for the info 1000%... Soooo no wax on wax off 😂👍
It's crazy that back in the lacquer paint days it was easy to get a smooth glass look from a paint job with no orange peeling look as long as it prep work was ok. But nowadays with factory paint jobs coming from robots the paint on nearly every Factory car you see the orange peel look it's like the new standard. Unless it's a high in vehicle . because manufacturers will change the paint in the middle of production if they can save a few pennies per gallon.
for $500 they don't repair dings, dents, any form of body damage. Nothing gets removed like mirrors, grills, lights. Everything gets taped off and they throw $50 worth of single stage paint at it, so you will have tape lines, overspray, paint flaking off due to bad adhesion and bad prep work. No Color sanding and buffing will turn a a $500 Maaco paint job into a $3000. I'm currently painting my 35y old Truck and I'm helping my bodymen/painter do a lot of the work to save money, we are 17 days into it and still have another 5-6 days to go. A $500 paint job Will always be a 20 Footer. Unless you lower your standards very very low. Some Cars only deserve a $500 paint job, which is OK but please don't try to fool people into thinking they can get the same OEM quality results by doing a little cutting and buffing.
Perfect video. Knowledgeable, explained everything, demonstrated everything, to the point.
Saying bello from dominican república
This is a good demonstration and was very helpful.
You should never get metallic with a single stage job
Why?
@@dub806 Because it is the worst paint you can buy. The shine will not last and will require constant buffing to keep shiny. Two stage metallic paint is the only way to go.
Even after this cut and buff you can see that the paint is dulling out. Detailing a cheap single stage paint will make it duller and fail faster. These paint jobs are for cars the owners don't care about.
Anyone that knows a good paint job can tell this is still a MAACO budget job because it has no depth. You get depth from a two stage process with a good amount of clear.
This whole video was nothing more than click-bait.
Always go base clear for metallics. It makes no sense to go single stage. How do you drop coat without messing up the clear? Then you color sand the single stage so it gets sun burnt even quicker. Be better to sand and clear coat the vehicle.
@@Ku9093 I have a car with a $500 Maaco metallic paint job. Can I wet sand and then apply clear coat?
@@Thomas-gf2ql yes.
Looks good Ricky! I just clay barred and waxed the family car-2014 3.6R Outback last weekend and my 2018 WRX needs this exact treatment. Clay bar, wet sand, compound, polish and wax for the win!
I'm from the UK so I don't really know, but why does everyone diss Maaco paint jobs?
Anas Ali because of the cheap price. But not everybody can spend thousands on a paint job.
@@ismaelcaldera3301 So it's cheap and nasty basically?
@@biplopqusquddin2278 It's cheap BECAUSE it's nasty brother...it's a basic bare bones paintjob. They've been known to paint wheels, mufflers, whatever's in the way and not masked off because they've got so many cars to paint and it's all about getting whatever job done quickly so they're not spending much in labor. They do a decent job for a cheap paintjob, but they don't do much prep (unless you pay them to), and they absolutely will not color sand and buff the car. It's just like Earl Scheib, a BARE BONES paint job (depending on how much you pay).
He explained why. The orange peel and debris. They ain't the worst paint jobs I've seen for sure!
@@biplopqusquddin2278 I had a car painted back in the day when I was in high school before a knew better by Maaco. The paint job was complete trash. It's not a two stage process so they basically mix the base and clear somehow. They painted over all the plastic trim on the car as well as my fog lights... After a month or so the paint was already falling off my front bumper. The worst. The fact that he trusted Maaco with his RX7 is completely beyond me.
There are a few nice details here that I've never seen another cut and buff video show/say (specifically the tape/don't sand what you can't polish with the machine you want to use...) but there is one problem.
I don't know how much this shows in person, but you got really lucky that single-stage metallic turned out not looking horrible. As it is, when you pan over in the video you can see what look like reflections of light and dark clouds, from farther back it looks like you have areas that aren't polished as well but when you get closer you see that they are shiny and show a good reflection. What is going on is that you cut into the mica flakes that make the metallic part of the paint, and in different areas, you cut a little more or a little less making the paint appear more or less metallic ( as you cut deeper you expose more of the flakes and cut away more of the color making it look more metallic, the more metallic areas look lighter on a dark paint) in different areas. Any time you "cut" into a metallic paint you cut into the metal flake and make it look more metallic/lighter colored and splotchy.
You can cut and buff single-stage, solid, non-metallic colors fine, but to do metallic you need to have 2 stages (a clear coat topcoat). With 2 stage paint you'll be cutting the orange peel out of the clear and not affecting the color/metallic underneath (even then the super picky will point out that thicker coats of clear make the color look darker/different so they will want to try to keep things as even as possible)
I Love and want RX7.! ❤️🥺❤️
Thank You for posting this video, I have watched quite a few and yours is really the best. You took all the time needed to show in detail, all the products needed and how to properly use them. You bet I subscribed
No amount of work put into it is going to stop it peeling in 6 months from the shit prep work... 😅
I have always understood that if you are going to us Maco, then you do the prep work yourself before you take it to them
I put 2 coats (24hrs between coats) of the Meguiar's hybrid ceramic spray wax on my black paint, it made it look better than new
👌
First
I feel like throtl really deserve so much more tho, Mick, Rick and the rest of the Crew are totally awesome!
I learned a lot watching your video. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
This DIY guy really appreciates it.
I've wet sanded and buffed hundreds of completes, use 3m compound and a wool pad at first then go back over with a softer foam pad, then polish with a foam pad. Also graduate to a DA palm sander with hook it pads. Don't be afraid to do a whole panel at once
Very very educational. I've never seen the process done start to finish. Your demonstration was awesome. Thanks very much
If you do a fender I go left to all the way right so that I don’t create breaks in the flow of the paint. Half fender will eventually have two tones. Maybe not, but going in longer strokes will definitely keep it from being mix matched patchy work.
Great Job Ricky! Awesome Vid! Sweet at home garage! More Ricky!
Looks great. You are right . 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
microfiber cutting pad or hybrid blue pad with griots fast correcting cream would make the polishing easier and less cutting work compared to the red foam. always blow out or wipe the pads after each panel for efficiency. u can jewel after polishing with menzerna sf4000 to give that glass glow!
Finally someone who knows what they doing great job brother
Thanks for the light, that is a money saver for sure.
Yeah I'm fine with the peel. If the car has the right color or it's close enough and it's not falling off im not screwing with it
well produced video, you are a good teacher.
I work at maaco. I wet sand and buff them before they leave. We stepped our game up
With what little uv protection there was on the single stage maaco paint sanded off, the metallic should last about 3 months before fading to chalk.
Eye and touch of an artist + lots of hard work = beautiful.
little advice, as I've been taught would be better if you sand in circles not straight, in this case you risk tu make marks , keep your finger togheter as would be flat pad, again for avoid marks, go straight only near the edges so you can avoid to go on them
Macco just quoted me $1,900 to put their low level paint job on my 1997 extended cab truck/6' bed.
I guess they all of the sudden got a bit to proud of their paint jobs to charge that! Just crazy how much their prices have gone up.
F it! Im gonna paint it myself. I worked at a body shop in my teen years and certainly couldn't do a worse job than Macco! LOL!
BTW, you're car looks beautiful! Great video!
RX7 is definitely one of the best looking cars of the '90s. I love those wheels 😍
12:20 you want to air blow or vacuum the pad because its holding contaminants. You do that every time you apply more compound. It looks like I see old contaminants burned into the paint.
Those straight lines in the wet sand marks is that thing you put in the sand paper, flat spotting your rounded panel. Just do paper in hand.
That's the pearl in the paint reflection.. not flat spots
Something else you want to do is cross hatch your sanding pattern 😬
Sands more evenly, faster, and prevents permanent scratches in The finish 👀
I did the same thing with my car. I had my coworker do a backyard respray on my 1994 Audi S4 with PPG Omni Base Plus + Shopline JC630 clear. It had a lot of orange peel and a few dirt nibs. Then I had my friend wet sand and buff the whole car, it came out fantastic. All in I had about $1300 in a complete color change and wet sand.
Bro I love the video. Seeing it done with shelf products easily accessible