Great idea for a brilliant demo, and also helpful as a novice to see the lift on the outer edge of the pad, nicely backs up advice I've gleaned to use smaller pads for edges! Thank you
Thanks for this , Single stage paint really gives you a better insight into what is happening with the paint/pad. I think this effect would be partly mitigated if you started with damp pads that had been wetted and wrung out. It helps keep the pad cooler and seeing this i believe would help to distribute the compound. Easily makes a mess though if your pad isnt wrung out well.
When i started I was using Hex foam pads which were soft so i just used to add a few extra blobs for the first one. More recent ones, espcially those Rupes (which are brilliant) are really stiff but give great result. I just prime everything right to the edges, then do as its just easier, but seeing it visually pull the paint was a really nice way to see the comparison.
Esoteric did a video on this a few months ago and they came to the conclusion that you get a better finish not priming your pad for both foam and microfiber.
I saw that video basically saying it’s just a waste of product. Confusing because they used a gloss meter as the unbiased proof. Buff and Shine has a video and they say do 2 sprays of detail spray and then just a few pea sizes of product 🤔
@@-d.b.m.1962 yes, it can be a little offputting. Detailing is a weird field to be "elitist" in given how many of us do it and do it well, but to each their own
It’s odd that Rupes own videos recommend priming, but there is no mention of priming in the instructions on the actual product. If it was crucial to performance why isn’t it mentioned on the packaging? The packaging does warn against ‘oversaturating’ the pad, so that sounds counter intuitive to recommending priming?
Is there any difference on the paint? After just one pass like that? Is there any more marring on the unprimed pad? Or does this just come down to the performance of the pad?
For myself, when its a crisp new pad, i feel priming can be achieved with a bit of water sprayed on the pad and 4 spots around the size of a Aussie $1 coin. Place the pad down on the panel (after fixing it to the polisher) and run on setting 2 for 3 or 4 seconds lift it up and your ready to go. Takes far less time and far less polish this way. I prefer to use 3D and Menzerna polishes. In particular their AIO are great but if you prime the pad with as much polish as you did at the start you will be going through a lot of pads as AIO's clog pads fairly quickly. Id like to see how much actual material was removed if thats possible. Maybe a reading with a thickness gauge to compare both methods.
Well another way of showing how and what part does the work ,first time I polished ever I used the cheap (foam pad) pads that came with package after 2 sections the pad was dead from centre out about 50% , as for priming yes , I put 1-3 circles thin line or a bit thicker (pad +size dependant) then lightly spread round , before polishing another thin circle or two (pad dependant) also quite a few yts disagree with the pre priming of pads
I always Prime pads. Even foam pads. Just like rupes advices. I also use the rupes technique. Prime by holding the pad on car for 20-30sec (foam) or 15sec (wool)on speed 2. It does miracles. When polishing I also do as rupes says. Sections 6x bigger than pad. Just two passes.
Nice one Jon! Will be giving that a go next time 👍🏼 Dewalt DA is a lovely machine, I see screwfix have got it on bare unit for £158 💥 Where can I get one of those FD caps from 😉
Hi John, You put more compound on the first pad. Do you think you would achieve the same effect by just applying more compound at the beginning without spreading it with a knive?
To me the unprimed pad looks darker in the areas where the polish collected. Are you sure that the primed pad removed more material, or does most of the material that is removed just have more of a tendency to stick where there is polish? To be honest I can't see much difference in results when I polish primed vs unprimed, and I have tried both because what you say is intuitive. I HAVE noticed much more sling, used far more product, and had my pads clog up about 10 times faster when priming. Also, I can't speak for rupes, but I wonder if most pad manufactureres develop their pads with priming in mind? If not, then you probably won't get the expected performance when priming. I find pad choice to have a much larger effect on cutting ability than the liquid employed, it seems to me that too much polish on a coarse pad might actually reduce cut substantially.
@@tier1detailing That certainly sounds like it should be true. Maybe it is, but if so it can't be a huge difference or people would notice and everyone would be priming.
Interesting video, but all I am seeing is that primed pad traps more material throughout and evenly. Non primed pad, you can see is darker where it traps most of its material that has been removed. As long as there is polish on the panel and finish is same (and in my observation, it is) then there is little point to go through the extra time and waste product. But maybe that is exactly what polishing product manufacturers want you to do for the sake of more business.
Hi John, thanks for the info another great video, I have a question sorry its not relating to priming pads but was hoping you can help, I have Scholl S20 and was wondering if after 1 step using the S20 I would be ok to add Tac Moonlight (I will fully prep before hand) just wondering if S20 was ok and not going to cause any issues with it bonding?
Hey John, please can you do a video on cleaning pads during the middle of a job. I.e bucket pad washer vs air compressor blow out technique. Buff daddy and Ammo made a cool trolley with an extractor fan and filter system. What's your take on how clean pads should be?
If your gonna be that cheap, what sort of towels are you using? There's no point cheaping out when correcting paint as it'll probably look worse then before.
Hi I'm going to be giving my car a polish (I've never done it before! ) I've watched loads of videos but still a bit worried I'll ruin my paint work my car is a scuba blue ant advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I didint know you had to use this much to prime I watched a bunch of videos and some were using a lot and some were only using four lines I’m still a little confused but I feel like priming the way you did is gonna have a lot more cutting power
pad will stay cooler which means you can (potentially) use it for longer and you will also get a better shine, the pad will also have a longer lifetime. i have also heard it gives better cutting but im not sure if thats true
@@ForensicDetailing I could have saved myself £20 😂 I was thinking I needed a dedicated cleaner 🙈 Bought my first Hex Logic pads from the Chemical Guys, a white and green 4” together with a brush and cleaner. Paid for next day delivery too. Sadly I got the order a day late and they sent me two brushes together with the cleaner and green pad. Not a good way to treat a new customer and I’m still waiting for the order to be rectified. How can you mix up such a small order and how does a pad cleaner brush look like a 4” hex logic pad 🤣🤣🤣
Hello, I have a good offer for a Dewalt and Flex cordless polisher. In your experience, I saw that you have both, which would you prefer, flex cordless DA and Rotary. .. or Dewalt cordless DA and rotary?? I do 2 cars a week and I'm in a big dilemma.. Many thanks for your analysis
So Dewalt for value for money and power. Flex for weight and battery life. The Flex cordless DA (XFE) does not have the same grunt at max speed 3800. With the Dewalt you can lean in more and work more cut. So overall its the dewalt. But also consider that flex have more accompany polishing tools if you want to expand your toolset. The XCE force rotation Flex polisher is the better machine of the 2 flex cordless DA's , in fact this is my favorite polisher.
the makita is primarily forced rotation. the small throw DA free spinning mode is not so good but the forced rotation mode is superb. buy DW if you want better free spinner by the mak if you want forced rotation.
@@ForensicDetailing agree the makita dpo600 forced rotation is excellent. You are going to want enough product on your fresh pad though otherwise it becomes a real work out to keep it smooth ! DA seems to be easier to get away with less product. Very different tools both giving good results imo. Ability to edge with the forced rotation for me probably outweighs time having to swap to another polisher.
@@ForensicDetailing Well, I ended up trying the makita and dewalt both. The friction on the makita was depressing, but if you take the backing pad off, there is a plate with 3 machine screws underneath. I took that off. Tada, the rotator in the middle spins freely. Put the plate backon with a couple of washers under each screw hole and its great.
Pad priming is a myth - waste of time, product & money! Both ‘V-Project UK’ & ‘Esoteric’ do great videos showing that pad priming makes no difference at all! Well worth watching both channels for the ‘facts’ of detailing!!!
@@ForensicDetailing - Please don’t accept anything as a criticism - great channel and this is just a healthy discussion 😎 - but the flaw in this test is that it was done on paint and not lacquer! Most people will be machine polishing lacquer not single stage paint which will react differently to priming. This test will make people think that priming for lacquer is essential - which it most definately isn’t!
This is all nonsense. Priming or not makes no difference. Don’t complicate things, just get the job done as quickly, efficiently and profitably as you can. All these new age detailing products and methods are just white noise. Use what serves you best and go with that. Snow foam, graphene, detail spray, 21 bucket & 40 mitt process, pressure washers, sealant XYZ, blah blah blah … it’s silly. We’re supposed to be detailing vehicles, not restoring them. Restoration takes longer than a few hours. Use the products and tools that best serve YOUR methods. Ignore everything else. We went an awfully long time without all these ridiculous detailing products and methods … just get it done and make some money. 😊😊😊
I think the moment you loose interest in the details of detailing and it becomes about banging it out. That mindset doesn't serve you as well as being interested. I do agree though it's not overly critical.
@@ForensicDetailing Completely disagree. Products are just tools. You don’t need 144 sets of tools to work on a vehicle, you only need 1 that works. Deep diving into products and/or methods has nothing to do with the details of detailing. It’s just nonsense that over-complicates a simple thing. What I lose interest in is people telling me how great this new thing is but it ultimately does the same thing as everything else. I don’t get caught up in that stuff. I do an excellent job for clients who consistently thank me and keep coming back. I mean, everything else is just poo-poo. Again, priming your pads does nothing. Should you do it? Sure, have at it. I haven’t done it for over 30 years and not once have I ever experienced any problems. So I duno what to tell you on that … seems like a bunch of silliness imo. 😊😊😊
@skull7414 - you could not be further from the truth. You say you do a good job for your client - I say you could do better. A lot has moved on from the 80’s where you seem to be stuck in. There is so much more stuff than Autoglym which was the main product from your days. You say get it done and make some money, well your customers must have your mindset if they are not asking about sealants or hydrophobic products to protect the car. You also need to remember that this channel is mainly aimed at the car detailing enthusiast. It’s my opinion that many are better and more professional than your attitude to it and are using far superior products. It’s like anything you don’t know who good something is until you try something different. I tried Maguiars new ceramic wax - I thought it was good as it was my first product, now that I have tried others I now know it is a terrible product. Your attitude is pretty poor - is this the norm for a detailer?
Kinda of a pointless video, great idea but poorly executed. You should have primed the pad the way Rupes say which is to put 4 lines and then run the machine on speed 2 (or whatever the dewalt equivalent is) with some pressure on a single spot for 20-30 second as this gets heat into the pad and softens it up abit and see how it compares vs zero priming and then your method of priming
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great idea for a brilliant demo, and also helpful as a novice to see the lift on the outer edge of the pad, nicely backs up advice I've gleaned to use smaller pads for edges! Thank you
Thanks for this , Single stage paint really gives you a better insight into what is happening with the paint/pad. I think this effect would be partly mitigated if you started with damp pads that had been wetted and wrung out. It helps keep the pad cooler and seeing this i believe would help to distribute the compound. Easily makes a mess though if your pad isnt wrung out well.
When i started I was using Hex foam pads which were soft so i just used to add a few extra blobs for the first one. More recent ones, espcially those Rupes (which are brilliant) are really stiff but give great result. I just prime everything right to the edges, then do as its just easier, but seeing it visually pull the paint was a really nice way to see the comparison.
Very interesting. Especially seeing that the outer edge of the pad doesn't do any work. Thanks Jon.
It will do over time just less. Stuffer pads and more pressure can get the outer bit hitting more
Esoteric did a video on this a few months ago and they came to the conclusion that you get a better finish not priming your pad for both foam and microfiber.
I saw that video basically saying it’s just a waste of product. Confusing because they used a gloss meter as the unbiased proof. Buff and Shine has a video and they say do 2 sprays of detail spray and then just a few pea sizes of product 🤔
oh oh, Esoteric won't like this video! 😂😂
My thoughts exactly:)
Yuuuuup
@@-d.b.m.1962 yes, it can be a little offputting. Detailing is a weird field to be "elitist" in given how many of us do it and do it well, but to each their own
Took the words right out my mouth!
My first thought too
It’s odd that Rupes own videos recommend priming, but there is no mention of priming in the instructions on the actual product. If it was crucial to performance why isn’t it mentioned on the packaging? The packaging does warn against ‘oversaturating’ the pad, so that sounds counter intuitive to recommending priming?
@4:30 my wife would like these vibrations
Thanks for another useful tip, I'll follow it for my next polishing exercise.
It would be interesting to carry out another test comparing with a pad sprayed lightly with just water before applying some polish.
I did not know that DeWalt made a 18V DA polisher. Might need to pick one up.
Is there any difference on the paint? After just one pass like that? Is there any more marring on the unprimed pad? Or does this just come down to the performance of the pad?
For myself, when its a crisp new pad, i feel priming can be achieved with a bit of water sprayed on the pad and 4 spots around the size of a Aussie $1 coin. Place the pad down on the panel (after fixing it to the polisher) and run on setting 2 for 3 or 4 seconds lift it up and your ready to go. Takes far less time and far less polish this way. I prefer to use 3D and Menzerna polishes. In particular their AIO are great but if you prime the pad with as much polish as you did at the start you will be going through a lot of pads as AIO's clog pads fairly quickly. Id like to see how much actual material was removed if thats possible. Maybe a reading with a thickness gauge to compare both methods.
Not all abrasives are water miscible. You have to be carefull doing that
Would like to see how this affects the correction ability
Well another way of showing how and what part does the work ,first time I polished ever I used the cheap (foam pad) pads that came with package after 2 sections the pad was dead from centre out about 50% , as for priming yes , I put 1-3 circles thin line or a bit thicker (pad +size dependant) then lightly spread round , before polishing another thin circle or two (pad dependant) also quite a few yts disagree with the pre priming of pads
I always Prime pads. Even foam pads. Just like rupes advices. I also use the rupes technique. Prime by holding the pad on car for 20-30sec (foam) or 15sec (wool)on speed 2. It does miracles.
When polishing I also do as rupes says. Sections 6x bigger than pad. Just two passes.
does this apply to folks that do waterless washes?
Brilliant video good explanation.
Great demo, thanks 😁👍🏻
Nice one Jon! Will be giving that a go next time 👍🏼 Dewalt DA is a lovely machine, I see screwfix have got it on bare unit for £158 💥 Where can I get one of those FD caps from 😉
Great tip once again💪
This is a good video, but let’s be honest. Where all waiting for the apc video. Lol
It's finished as of today
@@ForensicDetailing 👀
👀
Great learning video
Hi John, You put more compound on the first pad. Do you think you would achieve the same effect by just applying more compound at the beginning without spreading it with a knive?
Not the same effect no it would get pushed into the pad and there would be dry spots still I think.
I’ve always primed my pads like this. Doing 4 pea sized dots on a fresh pad has never made any sense to me 🤷🏻♂️
*Esoteric Detailing enters the chat
😂
To me the unprimed pad looks darker in the areas where the polish collected. Are you sure that the primed pad removed more material, or does most of the material that is removed just have more of a tendency to stick where there is polish?
To be honest I can't see much difference in results when I polish primed vs unprimed, and I have tried both because what you say is intuitive. I HAVE noticed much more sling, used far more product, and had my pads clog up about 10 times faster when priming. Also, I can't speak for rupes, but I wonder if most pad manufactureres develop their pads with priming in mind? If not, then you probably won't get the expected performance when priming.
I find pad choice to have a much larger effect on cutting ability than the liquid employed, it seems to me that too much polish on a coarse pad might actually reduce cut substantially.
Some great points m8. So many variables.
You might be able to argue that having material spread over a greater area on a pad could lead to better finishing results
@@tier1detailing That certainly sounds like it should be true. Maybe it is, but if so it can't be a huge difference or people would notice and everyone would be priming.
Good lord man, that DA is as noisey as drunk squaddy in a disco
You should make a response video to the Esoteric TH-cam channel that tells everyone you don’t need to prime pads
Everyone has different ideas. I'm pretty sure you need to prime mf and wool. Foam I was less concerned about but I think it's worth priming now
The Esoteric channel constantly says pad priming is unecessary and a waste of time & product…?
Dunno m8 lots of opinions i used to think it was not important. Now I think it's worth doing. Not 100% sure though
With that sort of coverage at the start, you can make my pizzas anytime.
Interesting video, but all I am seeing is that primed pad traps more material throughout and evenly. Non primed pad, you can see is darker where it traps most of its material that has been removed. As long as there is polish on the panel and finish is same (and in my observation, it is) then there is little point to go through the extra time and waste product. But maybe that is exactly what polishing product manufacturers want you to do for the sake of more business.
Hi John, thanks for the info another great video, I have a question sorry its not relating to priming pads but was hoping you can help, I have Scholl S20 and was wondering if after 1 step using the S20 I would be ok to add Tac Moonlight (I will fully prep before hand) just wondering if S20 was ok and not going to cause any issues with it bonding?
Hey John, please can you do a video on cleaning pads during the middle of a job. I.e bucket pad washer vs air compressor blow out technique. Buff daddy and Ammo made a cool trolley with an extractor fan and filter system. What's your take on how clean pads should be?
Pad cleaning is important. But I just switch out and put the old ones I water to flush clean later.
The camera shaking will make people think of old school godzilla movies 😂😂😂😂😂
Hi Jon, where does conditioning the pad come in
Can you prime the pad with a cheep polish Jon? And then put something like Koch for the actual polishing?
But extreme mate
If your gonna be that cheap, what sort of towels are you using? There's no point cheaping out when correcting paint as it'll probably look worse then before.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg Korean from in2detailing
@@rossyb313 Those are 80/20 blend so not ideal mate. Stick to rag company, 70/30 blends which on soft paint or gloss trim won't leave towel marring.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg cheers pal. Just took jons advice mate and they seem pretty decent cloths to be honest
Thanks we learn again 👍🏼
Hi I'm going to be giving my car a polish (I've never done it before! ) I've watched loads of videos but still a bit worried I'll ruin my paint work my car is a scuba blue ant advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Halfords have dropped in our store.
Chemical Guys.😋
Another very interesting vid
I didint know you had to use this much to prime I watched a bunch of videos and some were using a lot and some were only using four lines I’m still a little confused but I feel like priming the way you did is gonna have a lot more cutting power
Just a thought mate...how would dampening the pad with water before priming with compound or polish affect the end result
pad will stay cooler which means you can (potentially) use it for longer and you will also get a better shine, the pad will also have a longer lifetime. i have also heard it gives better cutting but im not sure if thats true
A waffle patern of polish is never fail
Hi John, have you ever thought of doing a pad cleaner review?
I use a hose m8
@@ForensicDetailing I could have saved myself £20 😂 I was thinking I needed a dedicated cleaner 🙈 Bought my first Hex Logic pads from the Chemical Guys, a white and green 4” together with a brush and cleaner. Paid for next day delivery too. Sadly I got the order a day late and they sent me two brushes together with the cleaner and green pad. Not a good way to treat a new customer and I’m still waiting for the order to be rectified. How can you mix up such a small order and how does a pad cleaner brush look like a 4” hex logic pad 🤣🤣🤣
I thought the poorly primed pad was going to leave marks in the paintwork.
Hello, I have a good offer for a Dewalt and Flex cordless polisher. In your experience, I saw that you have both, which would you prefer, flex cordless DA and Rotary. .. or Dewalt cordless DA and rotary?? I do 2 cars a week and I'm in a big dilemma.. Many thanks for your analysis
So Dewalt for value for money and power. Flex for weight and battery life. The Flex cordless DA (XFE) does not have the same grunt at max speed 3800. With the Dewalt you can lean in more and work more cut. So overall its the dewalt. But also consider that flex have more accompany polishing tools if you want to expand your toolset. The XCE force rotation Flex polisher is the better machine of the 2 flex cordless DA's , in fact this is my favorite polisher.
Good vid Jon, would you need to prime the entire pad again after completing sets and cleaning the pad out?
No just once m8
How does the dewalt da compare to the makita. Trying to decide between the two.
the makita is primarily forced rotation. the small throw DA free spinning mode is not so good but the forced rotation mode is superb. buy DW if you want better free spinner by the mak if you want forced rotation.
@@ForensicDetailing agree the makita dpo600 forced rotation is excellent. You are going to want enough product on your fresh pad though otherwise it becomes a real work out to keep it smooth ! DA seems to be easier to get away with less product. Very different tools both giving good results imo. Ability to edge with the forced rotation for me probably outweighs time having to swap to another polisher.
@@ForensicDetailing Well, I ended up trying the makita and dewalt both. The friction on the makita was depressing, but if you take the backing pad off, there is a plate with 3 machine screws underneath. I took that off. Tada, the rotator in the middle spins freely. Put the plate backon with a couple of washers under each screw hole and its great.
We're can I get one of these hats jon
I don't have any for sale mate sorry
Does it make a difference to the finish Jon? What about showing us the polished effect?
I'm going to Specsavers after watching this.very funny
Good Vibrations! 😂👍🏼
Todd Cooper flagged this video 🤣
Wise man
Hi John hope all is well
I can't polish buy machine I use foam pads by hand I do prime then first
All the John
Hmm gr8 question I guess 8n theory yes won't hurt
Makes sense
Fuck me this was like being put through a washing machine, I can't see straight!
😲4:37 i'm dizzy now 🥴😵💫🤢
Pad priming is a myth - waste of time, product & money! Both ‘V-Project UK’ & ‘Esoteric’ do great videos showing that pad priming makes no difference at all! Well worth watching both channels for the ‘facts’ of detailing!!!
What about the result shown in this video?
@@ForensicDetailing - Please don’t accept anything as a criticism - great channel and this is just a healthy discussion 😎 - but the flaw in this test is that it was done on paint and not lacquer! Most people will be machine polishing lacquer not single stage paint which will react differently to priming. This test will make people think that priming for lacquer is essential - which it most definately isn’t!
This is all nonsense. Priming or not makes no difference. Don’t complicate things, just get the job done as quickly, efficiently and profitably as you can. All these new age detailing products and methods are just white noise. Use what serves you best and go with that. Snow foam, graphene, detail spray, 21 bucket & 40 mitt process, pressure washers, sealant XYZ, blah blah blah … it’s silly. We’re supposed to be detailing vehicles, not restoring them. Restoration takes longer than a few hours.
Use the products and tools that best serve YOUR methods. Ignore everything else. We went an awfully long time without all these ridiculous detailing products and methods … just get it done and make some money.
😊😊😊
I think the moment you loose interest in the details of detailing and it becomes about banging it out. That mindset doesn't serve you as well as being interested. I do agree though it's not overly critical.
@@ForensicDetailing Completely disagree. Products are just tools. You don’t need 144 sets of tools to work on a vehicle, you only need 1 that works. Deep diving into products and/or methods has nothing to do with the details of detailing. It’s just nonsense that over-complicates a simple thing.
What I lose interest in is people telling me how great this new thing is but it ultimately does the same thing as everything else. I don’t get caught up in that stuff. I do an excellent job for clients who consistently thank me and keep coming back. I mean, everything else is just poo-poo.
Again, priming your pads does nothing. Should you do it? Sure, have at it. I haven’t done it for over 30 years and not once have I ever experienced any problems. So I duno what to tell you on that … seems like a bunch of silliness imo.
😊😊😊
"Get it done and make some money" is codeword for doing a mediocre job at best.
@skull7414 - you could not be further from the truth. You say you do a good job for your client - I say you could do better. A lot has moved on from the 80’s where you seem to be stuck in. There is so much more stuff than Autoglym which was the main product from your days. You say get it done and make some money, well your customers must have your mindset if they are not asking about sealants or hydrophobic products to protect the car. You also need to remember that this channel is mainly aimed at the car detailing enthusiast. It’s my opinion that many are better and more professional than your attitude to it and are using far superior products. It’s like anything you don’t know who good something is until you try something different. I tried Maguiars new ceramic wax - I thought it was good as it was my first product, now that I have tried others I now know it is a terrible product. Your attitude is pretty poor - is this the norm for a detailer?
Too much product Jon !
1st
Kinda of a pointless video, great idea but poorly executed.
You should have primed the pad the way Rupes say which is to put 4 lines and then run the machine on speed 2 (or whatever the dewalt equivalent is) with some pressure on a single spot for 20-30 second as this gets heat into the pad and softens it up abit and see how it compares vs zero priming and then your method of priming