You are a wizard. I watch one of your videos, and the products you use/recommend magically appear right outside my door in these well-packaged boxes a few days later.
I don’t have a garage big enough to polish in so it’s done on the drive. As a result I just do one step polishing sessions in one day and tried the yellow wool a couple of years back when they first came out. Haven’t used anything else since. With something like Sonax Perfect Finish you can get great correction that finishes really well. Great with an AIO too. The big advantage of wool is they stay cool which is partly why you get great results. You can clean them in 30 secs and if you put back on the machine and spin the pad at full speed they end up barely damp and ready to use again straight away. The Rupes wool pads has been a game changer for me.
Your constant banging on about these pads has forced me to buy some😂 hopefully my son will be passing his test soon, so these and Uno will be used to give his motor a tickle.
Got both the wool pads pretty much when they came out to use with my LHR 15. Never looked back, like you say it’s impressive what you can do with the yellow, used them for a 1 stage quite a few times and the finish is impressive.
I saw a video from the Rag Company where these guys were using the yellow Ruper medium wool polishing pad with the Uno Protect as one step, I did not know this wool pad could be used as the final or one step, amazing results, and then they let the product dry for 20 minutes and buffed off with Beadmaker… I am thinking of buying this yellow pads, very versatile, great video, thank you!!!
I too initially tried microfiber pads, and didn’t get them to work. I’ve since switched to Lake Country no lint wool pads. Following up with a Rupes yellow, and it’s been perfect so far! Thanks for the video, as always it was great!
I just had a lovely afternoon with a set of blue pads and a bottle of 3D ACA500 on my black saphire G30 530i. Its basically a one step 😅. The depth of the black... wow I will finish to make it even deeper with yellow foam and 520. My wife came home when I had done half the boot. She couldn't believe the difference. Its now black.
Rupes Blue wool is basically all I use, along with Optimum Polishes and the Zentool 21e2. I polish a lot of single stage paint, and it cuts through oxidized paint much faster than MF but still finishes good. It's even suitable on flat black paint with Hyper polish, leaving just slight micro-marring. It's easier to clean than MF as well with the Pad Washer, but does pick up some weight, causing vibration over time. It has so much friction, that after about 10 cars, the foam starts to tear apart at the velcro. Hoping to test the Optimum Hyper wool pad some more soon, after having one. It seems more durable and easier to use, but less balanced, less cut and worse finish.
The Rupes Yellow wool pad is my favourite. I've done a few single stage corrections with it and it's been top. Only thing I'd change about it, is its longevity.
I bought the blue intro multi-box with the pad and compound (free spreader tool and cloth). I love these pads so much, I then went back and bought the same promo box but in Fine. Used both the wool and the foam pads more than any others I have since i bought them. On an EP3 civic i did recently the yellow pad with the heavier blue compound works best as a single stage correction (it was trashed) but even though 70% correction was likely the results and improvement was amazing.
I purchased a new 5” Rupes DA last summer and made the switch to their matched pads and polishes. For an enthusiast like me, it is an easy system and it performs really well. But after watching your video, I will be putting a couple of wool pads on my shopping list for those tough spots. Thanks for this video.
On the back of your video on the DA kits i bought some wool pads and they’ve been a revelation. Love using them and the yellow is super impressive - can do one step with a wool pad? Go Rupes👌
I often struggle with badly weathered darker colors(washed with rocks look). I've tried uro fiber 50/50 pads and they micro mar the hell out of the paint, requiring a second stage. I'm sure that's still the case with wool pads.... maybe a little easier than dealing with uro/micro fiber.
Any heavy cut wool will need finishing but on hard swirly paint 2step often best method. Wool cut foam finish. Rupes yellow wool is good option though. In testing blue wool left like 14 units of haze. Zero is no haze. Yellow left 2 units. Foam can get you to zero sometimes. So yer its finding your ideal combo of hammers big and small.
I’ve never machine polished a car but when the better weather arrives, I want to do a proper weekend warrior job and fully compound, polish and wax my car. My car has a lot of swirls so the blue wool pad would be ideal however to polish the car and get an excellent finish could I use the yellow wool pad to get that finish or should I go with the normal yellow pad. I get there’s a white finishing pad however I’ve seen so many reviews of people saying the finishing polish with the yellow pad is amazing.
For microfiber pads you really need to clean them with compressed air after every section pass. If not, yeah they are not fun to deal with as far as gumming up too much.
They sure do, i was actually pretty let down after spending $70 Australian on a pair of them from Megs. I topped it off by using them without thinking on single stage paint, yay! haha.
Are wool pads ok for someone who’s looking to get into detailing or am I best starting with the foam pads and once I’ve got some experience/ practice then move up to wool? I have to do my cars on the driveway.
Rupes have recently dropped the new waffle rotary pads. Will be a game changer with their gel compounds. LC Purple wool excellent too. I agree something about the rotary, it just does its job regardless of soft, hard, sticky etc.
Nice vid! in a rush with a foam pad?!?! no.. this would take a lot longer do do the work of a wool pad surely? I know your not using a rotary, but heat plays a part also doesnt it with wool? What about cleaning out the pad or saturation with product? there is this to consider also... and the amount of pads you would use doing the job. Speeds... isnt above 3 turning the machine into more a grinder lol combi of pad and product... isnt there a concern you could be too aggressive? I couldnt get on with Rupes products.. dont like their priming process etc.. i had a question to them about how their 2 pea size drops on a pad is far too dry and you could be damaging the clear coat?!
Great video mate… I’m using yellow foam with da fine which has been great for most of the car. But now I noticed a few bird dropping etchings in the clear coat on the bonnet. What would you recommend? Blue wool and da course compound followed by white and the uno pure? Gunmetal grey paint. I don’t want to remove too much clear coat! This is part of my prep before Gyeon synchro. What do you think maestro?
its hard to say but I would go with foam mate it will warm up the paint a bit more than the wool for the marring. yellow rupes and DA fine is a good starting point. and step up if required.
I've been using the blue wool pad with da coarse polish. Not impressed with the blue wool. Need to experiment more with it. Currently working on a moderately oxidized single stage paint.
its very agressive make sure to work quite wet with it (as in use a lot of product and make sure its well primed) but if its sticking to single stage maybe switch to corse foam.
I wasn't a fan of these at first, but a very specific incident occurred that caused a permanent switch to them. I was from having to sand painted plastics, and removing the sanding marks. My polishes showed no evidence having made any effect. A switch to wool was able to remove all of the sanding marks. I attribute this to the reduced heat wool beings to the table. When I tried these pads before, I was trying to make it work with Rupes liquids. The white and yellow were really good, but the blue was too dusty. This time I'm testing them with my staple of 3D abrasive liquids. Between ACA500 extra cut and 3D ONE and a set of pads I can get eveverythini need done. I recently witnessed the beauty of 3D ONE and the yellow wool pads. A dream one step that will cut great on painted metal, fiberglass and plastics. It's that piiece of mind reducing inventory of pads and polishes.
The rupes blue compound is very very short set. It's very abrasive. It needs to still be wet at the end of the short set. And buffed wet. Moment it turns it stiffens and is harder to buff and will dust. When I get used to it it's really nice but lots I think fong like it because they are used to longer processing.
@ForensicDetailing - Excelent observation! I loved the way the blue compound cut and finished, but that dust reminded me of M105! It sat in between M105 and M100. The cut and finish reminded me of M100. I like that 3D ACA500 for the same reasons Brian at Apex does. It behaves like a polish with a longer usable work time, heavy cut, and very good finishing despite its level of cut. If it leaves and marring or haze, it's very easy to refine, and it rarely fights me on wipe off. I also really like the Meguiar's M110, and Jescar Correction Compound, but if I needed to choose just one compound.... Good news is that the 3D One takes care of 90% of what I need out of a cutting compound or fine polish - I just switch the pad. "Works as advertised" I suppose! I do keep their AAT502 for a dedicated finishing polish, which easily finishes out on sensitive finishes, where 3D ONE might need some sort of trickery to finish down. Jon, this is a great presentation. Thank you for it. It is one of the reasons I kept reconsidering these pads. I don't like how these pads operate when starting the process. The blue especially can throw the polisher around a bit. They will eventually break in amd behave properly. Before it wasn't worth it to me, but now it is! Take care good sir!
How do you tell if your paint is soft or hard? I'm new to detailing and only do my own motors, a range rover and a vivaro. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for another great vid John, keep them coming 👍
Test spot. I like to start with a polishing pad/liquid (RUPES DA Fine polish and yellow wool or yellow foam pad). Check to see if it is removing the defects you want to remove in one set. If they're 90% gone and there is no hazing or micro-marring tick marks, you probably have a medium hardness paint. If the defects are gone and there is haze/marring, you have soft or medium soft paint. If the defects are still there with less than 50% improvement, and there is no haze...you have hard paint. Then just adjust from there for your desired finish and how much time to have to work on it.
@@ForensicDetailing Great. Rupes actually introduced a wool pad on foam backing that was supposed to be dedicated for rotary but we tried it in the company and it seems that is not working too good for us. Many people use the one in your video (that was supposed to be dedicated for DA) with rotary with good results. So your opinion is very helpful and we will give it a try with rotary as well. Thanks once again.
How does the Yellow Wool compare cut wise to Flex Green/Scholl Navy? Is it a step up? Was looking for something for a bit more than the Navy, and had considered Scholl Top Wool but they only are only 3/5 inch. No good for the PXE. Also have you seen the soon to be released Coatic adaptor to allow you to use the SPTA flexible shaft (about £20) with the PXE80. Flex one would be nice but is a bit expensive
Those blue wool pads are really good esp with da coarse which is the best compound by far, tho microfibre still cuts a bit better, because da coarse leave such a good finish even on microfibre I can got straight to uno pure on white to finish. Don’t bother with microfibre if you don’t have an airline tho, vortex gun works best
I agree that the coarse compound is one of the best along with The Last Cut plus. The blue wool pad is amazing it does cut better than microfiber(meguiars, rupes etc.) usually and finishes better.
With all that equipment and tools Im surprised you haven’t invested in an air compressor. Makes life easier when blowing out pads and can be used for air tools / filling tyres etc etc.
@@jonathan6009 50 litre 3hp is good , but depends if you want to do things like using sanders and spray painting , it can do it but can’t paint a whole car or use sander non stop
Great content as always, but can you please consider investing in a better camera setup (preferably hands free) or use multiple cameras to cover the different angles in your garage. All that camera movement is a bit nauseating. I spend more time listening than viewing.
Are those ment to be for da polisher only. Because I have a rotary polisher and the foam pads do so much better than these microfiber ones . am I doing something wrong or am I correct thanks
@@ForensicDetailing thank you I have split the hood on many sections and tried all my pads , microfibers ( all randd ) sadly failed compared to foam . Thank you
Would you do a yellow wool or foam and finish with white foam + uno pure ? Or does uno pure + white foam doesn't ad much finish/gloss compared to fine polish with yellow pads ?
What I mean is.... Even if finish is perfect with yellow whool or foam with DA fine polish. And there is no haze. Will Uno pure with white foam pad make it even more glossy ?
They are thinner to translate more cutting action from the machine. While they do provide a lot of cut, they can also finish very well on hard/light colored paint. I got 90% correction on a hammered silver Hyundai with the blue wool and DA Coarse compound. I tried a second step with a foam pad and DA Fine, but it really wasn't necessary on that particular car and I was hard pressed to see a difference.
Hi Jon, why don't you buy lake country pad washer system 4000? It's worth every penny, cleaning the pads it's taking few seconds and you can constantly use same pad :)
@@moisesperez3693 then just use a stiff brush like the rupes one he mentioned in between every pass. In combination with swapping pads more frequently (7-10 pads minimum for an entire vehicle) This is the only workable solution to not having access to compressed air.
It boggles my mind that Rupes introduced another three pads - made from microfiber. And I tought that this system was about simplicity. Their first DA microfiber pads were miserable, time will tell if their new microfiber will be better.
@@Justin-ny6un Apparently, the new blue microfiber is supposed to cut better than the blue wool. Lets say that I can tolerate that, but the white one ? Is it supposed to cut or finish ? Don't get me wrong - I love Rupes as a company that provides you with machines, consumables and training, but I do belive that this is unnecesary complication.
@@KamiruNusbaum Probably just light cut/finish to pair with Uno? Probably best to stick with wool anyway unless you have a compressor to blow the pads out
You are a wizard. I watch one of your videos, and the products you use/recommend magically appear right outside my door in these well-packaged boxes a few days later.
I don’t have a garage big enough to polish in so it’s done on the drive. As a result I just do one step polishing sessions in one day and tried the yellow wool a couple of years back when they first came out. Haven’t used anything else since. With something like Sonax Perfect Finish you can get great correction that finishes really well. Great with an AIO too. The big advantage of wool is they stay cool which is partly why you get great results. You can clean them in 30 secs and if you put back on the machine and spin the pad at full speed they end up barely damp and ready to use again straight away. The Rupes wool pads has been a game changer for me.
Your constant banging on about these pads has forced me to buy some😂 hopefully my son will be passing his test soon, so these and Uno will be used to give his motor a tickle.
Got both the wool pads pretty much when they came out to use with my LHR 15. Never looked back, like you say it’s impressive what you can do with the yellow, used them for a 1 stage quite a few times and the finish is impressive.
The entire Rupes line is amazing, but the wool pads are stunners!
agreed, my favourite pad and polish combos that i've tried so far
Nice video
But you forgot to mention to say that no sheep was harmed during this video 😄😄😄😄👍😄🤣
Baaaaaaaa
I saw a video from the Rag Company where these guys were using the yellow Ruper medium wool polishing pad with the Uno Protect as one step, I did not know this wool pad could be used as the final or one step, amazing results, and then they let the product dry for 20 minutes and buffed off with Beadmaker… I am thinking of buying this yellow pads, very versatile, great video, thank you!!!
I too initially tried microfiber pads, and didn’t get them to work. I’ve since switched to Lake Country no lint wool pads. Following up with a Rupes yellow, and it’s been perfect so far! Thanks for the video, as always it was great!
I just had a lovely afternoon with a set of blue pads and a bottle of 3D ACA500 on my black saphire G30 530i.
Its basically a one step 😅.
The depth of the black... wow
I will finish to make it even deeper with yellow foam and 520.
My wife came home when I had done half the boot. She couldn't believe the difference.
Its now black.
Rupes Blue wool is basically all I use, along with Optimum Polishes and the Zentool 21e2. I polish a lot of single stage paint, and it cuts through oxidized paint much faster than MF but still finishes good. It's even suitable on flat black paint with Hyper polish, leaving just slight micro-marring. It's easier to clean than MF as well with the Pad Washer, but does pick up some weight, causing vibration over time. It has so much friction, that after about 10 cars, the foam starts to tear apart at the velcro.
Hoping to test the Optimum Hyper wool pad some more soon, after having one. It seems more durable and easier to use, but less balanced, less cut and worse finish.
The Rupes Yellow wool pad is my favourite. I've done a few single stage corrections with it and it's been top. Only thing I'd change about it, is its longevity.
Mine fell to bits after a year
@@paullangley1332 yes, I noticed tearing in the sidewalls. To compensate I've bought extra pads and try to switch out before they get too hot.
What compound did you use with it
@@TheM3smg koch chemie f6.01
@@TheM3smg I use all the Rupes range plus Sonax perfect finish to get it extra glossy.
I bought the blue intro multi-box with the pad and compound (free spreader tool and cloth). I love these pads so much, I then went back and bought the same promo box but in Fine. Used both the wool and the foam pads more than any others I have since i bought them. On an EP3 civic i did recently the yellow pad with the heavier blue compound works best as a single stage correction (it was trashed) but even though 70% correction was likely the results and improvement was amazing.
Love the rupes yellow wool plus uni protect, can whip around a car in 20 mins for a quick wax and polish
Enjoying the new(ish) format with the whiteboard and all the info/pro's and con's 👍👍.
I purchased a new 5” Rupes DA last summer and made the switch to their matched pads and polishes. For an enthusiast like me, it is an easy system and it performs really well. But after watching your video, I will be putting a couple of wool pads on my shopping list for those tough spots. Thanks for this video.
Where do you live in Newfoundland Wayne? I'm from Newfoundland.
@@seabrew1 In beautiful downtown Paradise
Had yellow wool for a while - really impressive.
On the back of your video on the DA kits i bought some wool pads and they’ve been a revelation. Love using them and the yellow is super impressive - can do one step with a wool pad? Go Rupes👌
I often struggle with badly weathered darker colors(washed with rocks look). I've tried uro fiber 50/50 pads and they micro mar the hell out of the paint, requiring a second stage. I'm sure that's still the case with wool pads.... maybe a little easier than dealing with uro/micro fiber.
Any heavy cut wool will need finishing but on hard swirly paint 2step often best method. Wool cut foam finish. Rupes yellow wool is good option though. In testing blue wool left like 14 units of haze. Zero is no haze. Yellow left 2 units. Foam can get you to zero sometimes. So yer its finding your ideal combo of hammers big and small.
Really good job explaining that thanks Jon.
I’ve never machine polished a car but when the better weather arrives, I want to do a proper weekend warrior job and fully compound, polish and wax my car. My car has a lot of swirls so the blue wool pad would be ideal however to polish the car and get an excellent finish could I use the yellow wool pad to get that finish or should I go with the normal yellow pad. I get there’s a white finishing pad however I’ve seen so many reviews of people saying the finishing polish with the yellow pad is amazing.
For microfiber pads you really need to clean them with compressed air after every section pass. If not, yeah they are not fun to deal with as far as gumming up too much.
They sure do, i was actually pretty let down after spending $70 Australian on a pair of them from Megs. I topped it off by using them without thinking on single stage paint, yay! haha.
Are wool pads ok for someone who’s looking to get into detailing or am I best starting with the foam pads and once I’ve got some experience/ practice then move up to wool? I have to do my cars on the driveway.
Looks like the yellow pad is a cut and finishing pad. Another great video. 👍
For cleaning pads I use lake country 4000 so quick & easy to use ..
I still find the rotary is better than a da …
Rupes have recently dropped the new waffle rotary pads. Will be a game changer with their gel compounds. LC Purple wool excellent too. I agree something about the rotary, it just does its job regardless of soft, hard, sticky etc.
Have you try the Rupes UHS medium polishing pad ? Or the Purple foamed knitted wool pads from Lake Country 🙂👍
Nice vid!
in a rush with a foam pad?!?! no.. this would take a lot longer do do the work of a wool pad surely?
I know your not using a rotary, but heat plays a part also doesnt it with wool?
What about cleaning out the pad or saturation with product? there is this to consider also... and the amount of pads you would use doing the job.
Speeds... isnt above 3 turning the machine into more a grinder lol combi of pad and product... isnt there a concern you could be too aggressive?
I couldnt get on with Rupes products.. dont like their priming process etc.. i had a question to them about how their 2 pea size drops on a pad is far too dry and you could be damaging the clear coat?!
Have you tester rupes new Blue wool pad
Great video mate… I’m using yellow foam with da fine which has been great for most of the car. But now I noticed a few bird dropping etchings in the clear coat on the bonnet. What would you recommend? Blue wool and da course compound followed by white and the uno pure? Gunmetal grey paint. I don’t want to remove too much clear coat! This is part of my prep before Gyeon synchro. What do you think maestro?
its hard to say but I would go with foam mate it will warm up the paint a bit more than the wool for the marring. yellow rupes and DA fine is a good starting point. and step up if required.
I've been using the blue wool pad with da coarse polish. Not impressed with the blue wool. Need to experiment more with it. Currently working on a moderately oxidized single stage paint.
its very agressive make sure to work quite wet with it (as in use a lot of product and make sure its well primed) but if its sticking to single stage maybe switch to corse foam.
I wasn't a fan of these at first, but a very specific incident occurred that caused a permanent switch to them.
I was from having to sand painted plastics, and removing the sanding marks. My polishes showed no evidence having made any effect.
A switch to wool was able to remove all of the sanding marks. I attribute this to the reduced heat wool beings to the table.
When I tried these pads before, I was trying to make it work with Rupes liquids. The white and yellow were really good, but the blue was too dusty.
This time I'm testing them with my staple of 3D abrasive liquids. Between ACA500 extra cut and 3D ONE and a set of pads I can get eveverythini need done. I recently witnessed the beauty of 3D ONE and the yellow wool pads. A dream one step that will cut great on painted metal, fiberglass and plastics.
It's that piiece of mind reducing inventory of pads and polishes.
The rupes blue compound is very very short set. It's very abrasive. It needs to still be wet at the end of the short set. And buffed wet. Moment it turns it stiffens and is harder to buff and will dust. When I get used to it it's really nice but lots I think fong like it because they are used to longer processing.
@ForensicDetailing - Excelent observation!
I loved the way the blue compound cut and finished, but that dust reminded me of M105! It sat in between M105 and M100. The cut and finish reminded me of M100.
I like that 3D ACA500 for the same reasons Brian at Apex does. It behaves like a polish with a longer usable work time, heavy cut, and very good finishing despite its level of cut. If it leaves and marring or haze, it's very easy to refine, and it rarely fights me on wipe off. I also really like the Meguiar's M110, and Jescar Correction Compound, but if I needed to choose just one compound....
Good news is that the 3D One takes care of 90% of what I need out of a cutting compound or fine polish - I just switch the pad. "Works as advertised" I suppose! I do keep their AAT502 for a dedicated finishing polish, which easily finishes out on sensitive finishes, where 3D ONE might need some sort of trickery to finish down.
Jon, this is a great presentation. Thank you for it. It is one of the reasons I kept reconsidering these pads. I don't like how these pads operate when starting the process. The blue especially can throw the polisher around a bit. They will eventually break in amd behave properly. Before it wasn't worth it to me, but now it is!
Take care good sir!
How do you tell if your paint is soft or hard? I'm new to detailing and only do my own motors, a range rover and a vivaro. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for another great vid John, keep them coming 👍
Softer paint is easier to cut
Test spot. I like to start with a polishing pad/liquid (RUPES DA Fine polish and yellow wool or yellow foam pad). Check to see if it is removing the defects you want to remove in one set.
If they're 90% gone and there is no hazing or micro-marring tick marks, you probably have a medium hardness paint. If the defects are gone and there is haze/marring, you have soft or medium soft paint. If the defects are still there with less than 50% improvement, and there is no haze...you have hard paint.
Then just adjust from there for your desired finish and how much time to have to work on it.
Great video, as per the usual :) Love the real-time, on the fly stuff you manage to do whilst holding a camera lol
Thanks 👍
Great video Jon, this is the sort of advice which is invaluable to people starting out polishing.
love the rupes wool pads mate, where are you buying them from at £11 mate ? i cant find them any where for that price including in2detailing.
I'm curious what you think of their polishes?
Important to use them like rupes say. Very fast processing times if you do.
Hello Jon, great video. Can you please let me know if those wool pads work well with a rotary. Have you tried them with a rotary? Thanks 👍
they do yes at last with no flexible plates with soft backing
@@ForensicDetailing Great. Rupes actually introduced a wool pad on foam backing that was supposed to be dedicated for rotary but we tried it in the company and it seems that is not working too good for us. Many people use the one in your video (that was supposed to be dedicated for DA) with rotary with good results. So your opinion is very helpful and we will give it a try with rotary as well. Thanks once again.
what about their updated whool pads series NW. What are their differences compared to the previous generation?
Do you change your technique when using a finishing polish on a da? Hand speed, machine speed, ect?
Depends on the product but not much generally
Thanks Jon for the info top man.
Hi Jon could you look into a review or best , leaf blower/ cordless dryer that would be great cheers 👍
How does the Yellow Wool compare cut wise to Flex Green/Scholl Navy?
Is it a step up? Was looking for something for a bit more than the Navy, and had considered Scholl Top Wool but they only are only 3/5 inch. No good for the PXE.
Also have you seen the soon to be released Coatic adaptor to allow you to use the SPTA flexible shaft (about £20) with the PXE80. Flex one would be nice but is a bit expensive
I would say it has more cut, you can make the foam bridge the gap a bit by really pressuring in but that takes its tole on the foam pads
Would the yellow wool pad work well with turtle wax one and done to remove swirls? Would I need to use a finishing pad afterwards?
give it a go mate this is half the fun I will try and check this
They also make a good ad hoc toupée.....
🤣🤣🤣
Those blue wool pads are really good esp with da coarse which is the best compound by far, tho microfibre still cuts a bit better, because da coarse leave such a good finish even on microfibre I can got straight to uno pure on white to finish. Don’t bother with microfibre if you don’t have an airline tho, vortex gun works best
I agree that the coarse compound is one of the best along with The Last Cut plus. The blue wool pad is amazing it does cut better than microfiber(meguiars, rupes etc.) usually and finishes better.
Would you use the yellow wool on a older car without clear coating?
probably not no.
Thanks for the fast response.@@ForensicDetailing
Could you use rupees yellow wool with an aio with good results Jon? Interested to hear your opinion on this
Yes m8
With all that equipment and tools Im surprised you haven’t invested in an air compressor. Makes life easier when blowing out pads and can be used for air tools / filling tyres etc etc.
Could you give any spec for what air compressor needed for weekend warrior?
@@jonathan6009 50 litre 3hp is good , but depends if you want to do things like using sanders and spray painting , it can do it but can’t paint a whole car or use sander non stop
Great content as always, but can you please consider investing in a better camera setup (preferably hands free) or use multiple cameras to cover the different angles in your garage. All that camera movement is a bit nauseating. I spend more time listening than viewing.
18:11 don’t tell the mrs 😂😂🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣
In canada rupes wool pads are the most expensive pads on the market.
Are those ment to be for da polisher only. Because I have a rotary polisher and the foam pads do so much better than these microfiber ones .
am I doing something wrong or am I correct thanks
Foam or wool fir rotary m8. Don't use microfiber on rotary.
@@ForensicDetailing thank you
I have split the hood on many sections and tried all my pads , microfibers ( all randd ) sadly failed compared to foam . Thank you
Would you do a yellow wool or foam and finish with white foam + uno pure ? Or does uno pure + white foam doesn't ad much finish/gloss compared to fine polish with yellow pads ?
Depends on paint type m8
@@ForensicDetailing Mazda MX-5 ND 2016
Ceramic white (metallic)
What I mean is.... Even if finish is perfect with yellow whool or foam with DA fine polish. And there is no haze.
Will Uno pure with white foam pad make it even more glossy ?
The rupes wool blue seems too thin ? Gotta be careful they rough
They are thinner to translate more cutting action from the machine. While they do provide a lot of cut, they can also finish very well on hard/light colored paint.
I got 90% correction on a hammered silver Hyundai with the blue wool and DA Coarse compound. I tried a second step with a foam pad and DA Fine, but it really wasn't necessary on that particular car and I was hard pressed to see a difference.
@@jeffc6832 watch out with hyundais and other korean/japanese cars, their paint especially on newer hyundais is extremely thin
Why not a pad washer?
Hi Jon, why don't you buy lake country pad washer system 4000? It's worth every penny, cleaning the pads it's taking few seconds and you can constantly use same pad :)
@ £160 you’d be better buying an air compressor for similar money than a fancy bucket washer.
@@AnotherTH-camr460 I thought the same until I bought it, it was one of the best purchases
Great pads
Where do I get this "predator vision" you speak of ? Asking for a friend named "Arnold"....
Can you use the Lake County 4000 to wash your pads between panels
I would not get the pads wet after every set.
@@ForensicDetailing I don't have access to compressed air.
@@moisesperez3693 then just use a stiff brush like the rupes one he mentioned in between every pass. In combination with swapping pads more frequently (7-10 pads minimum for an entire vehicle) This is the only workable solution to not having access to compressed air.
How did you get a 2inch plate on the flex pxe !?
Aps sell one in1detauling m8
@@ForensicDetailing many thanks !!
You could do with an urbanvalet training week😂
Which Flex polishers is that?
Xce m8
@@ForensicDetailing Thank you brother! Do you recommend it? Looking to buy one cordless force rotation polisher.
@@lucabrazi36 it really doesn't have much cutting power in my opinion, i prefer the rupes mille anyday.
@@kylechow6072 thanks for the reply!
It boggles my mind that Rupes introduced another three pads - made from microfiber. And I tought that this system was about simplicity. Their first DA microfiber pads were miserable, time will tell if their new microfiber will be better.
Ha!
I liked the original microfiber.
I hate the wool pads..
Gotta please the Americans with Microfibre
@@Justin-ny6un Apparently, the new blue microfiber is supposed to cut better than the blue wool. Lets say that I can tolerate that, but the white one ? Is it supposed to cut or finish ? Don't get me wrong - I love Rupes as a company that provides you with machines, consumables and training, but I do belive that this is unnecesary complication.
@@KamiruNusbaum Probably just light cut/finish to pair with Uno? Probably best to stick with wool anyway unless you have a compressor to blow the pads out
Put it back on your machine and turn it on, dry in no time.
Now we all can say we've been in Jon's mouth. 😂
3rd
Yes air is call a torndoa to clean pads
Uh, that pad is orange mate.
Covered in video
@@ForensicDetailing Your eyes are covered.
Why not a pad washer???